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Just Me Travel

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Month: November 2025

SAVANNAH WAY ROAD TRIP: Cool Off in 5 Crocodile-Free Swimming Holes

From Mataranka Thermal Pool, Butterfly Falls, and Lorella Springs Wilderness Park to Hell’s Gate Roadhouse and Copperfield Gorge – Five Swimming Holes in Australia’s Top End.   Driving Australia’s Savannah…

From Mataranka Thermal Pool, Butterfly Falls, and Lorella Springs Wilderness Park to Hell’s Gate Roadhouse and Copperfield Gorge – Five Swimming Holes in Australia’s Top End.

 

Driving Australia’s Savannah Way is one of those epic outback adventures that stays with you long after the dust settles. Stretching over 3,700 kilometres from Broome in Western Australia to Cairns in Queensland, the route winds through monsoon rainforest, open savannah, and some of the most remote parts of northern Australia.

I travelled this legendary route with APT (Australian Pacific Touring) on their 12-Day Savannah Explorer 4WD Tour, journeying from Darwin to Cairns (a reverse trip from Cairns to Darwin is also available). With APT’s expert guides leading the way, the experience offered the right balance of comfort and adventure – from rugged landscapes to natural hot springs and hidden gorges. 

But there’s one question that comes up time and again when exploring Australia’s Top End: Can you swim here? 

In crocodile country, finding a safe swimming spot is like striking gold. While the region is famous for its wild waterways and thermal springs, you can never assume they’re crocodile-free. During my journey along the Savannah Way, I discovered several places where you can usually swim safely – though, as always, you must check with locals before diving in. 

Here are five refreshing (usually) crocodile-free swimming holes along the Savannah Way – from the Northern Territory’s tropical springs to Queensland’s rocky gorges.

 

Important Safety Note

Before you dip a toe in any northern Australian waterway, remember: no swimming spot is ever guaranteed to be 100% crocodile-free. Conditions can change overnight, especially after heavy rains, when crocodiles might move into new areas.

Always take these precautions before swimming:

  • Ask locals or park rangers about current conditions – they know best.
  • Look for warning signs and never ignore them.
  • Avoid swimming at dawn or dusk, when crocodiles are most active.
  • Never swim alone.

Respecting these simple safety rules ensures your outback adventure remains safe and memorable.

The Swimming Holes Along the Savannah Way

From thermal pools shaded by palm trees to deep outback gorges carved by time, these five swimming spots were highlights of my trip. They were ideal for soothing sore muscles or cooling off after long, dusty drives. I swam in all of them.

Mataranka Thermal Pool (Elsey National Park, Northern Territory)

[642 Homestead Road, Mataranka, NT 0852]

Mataranka Thermal Pool is a series of geothermal hot springs surrounded by paperbark trees and nestled in a lush palm forest within Elsey National Park. The pool has a sandy bottom, and its crystal-clear water stays a warm 34°C year-round. It felt like swimming in an open-air spa!

A person swimming in a hot spring that is surronded by gum trees and palms.

Swimming in the Mataranka Thermal Pool is like soaking in a hot bath!

 

The pool is an easy 500-metre return walk from the car park along a paved path. There are stairs with handrails leading into the pool.

Mataranka Thermal Pool is free to visit, and you don’t need a permit for the national park.

The area was made famous by the novel We of the Never Never, an Australian classic by Jeannie Gunn (writing under the name of her husband, Aeneas Gunn), which tells of her life on Elsey Station around 1902.

The Katherine Visitor Information Centre says Mataranka Thermal Pool is one of the few easily accessible spots in the region where you can swim without the threat of saltwater crocodiles. However, while generally considered safe for swimming, it’s best to check with park rangers first, as conditions can change.

Butterfly Falls (Limmen National Park, Northern Territory)

[via Nathan River Road, Limmen, NT 0852]

The drive to the remote Butterfly Falls passes through open savannah and along red dirt tracks. However, upon arrival, you find a serene oasis in an otherwise rugged landscape.

Three people swimming in a natural pool created by a waterfall cascading down red cliffs.

Escaping the heat in the clear pool surrounded by red cliffs at Butterfly Falls.

 

The waterfall cascades in the wet season and trickles in the dry into a beautiful, naturally formed waterhole surrounded by lush vegetation and red sandstone cliffs. It’s a magical spot to cool off.

Butterfly Falls is named for the thousands of Common Crow butterflies that fill the area in the dry season.

Common Crow butterflies cling to the cool of the cliff face at Butterfly Falls.

 

Butterfly Falls is the only crocodile-safe swimming spot in Limmen National Park. However, even here, always check with rangers to confirm it’s safe to swim, especially after heavy rain.

Limmen National Park requires visitors to have a Northern Territory Parks Pass, available online.

Lorella Springs Wilderness Park – Thermal Springs and Rosie Creek

[via Borroloola, NT 0854]

Few places capture the essence of outback adventure quite like Lorella Springs Wilderness Park. This one-million-acre outback cattle station, a wilderness of untamed beauty, offers visitors the chance to explore and unwind in a landscape of escarpments, billabongs, and hidden springs.

The thermal spring near the homestead, called “Magical Spring”, is one of Lorella’s top attractions. It features warm, clear, flowing water in a rock pool shaded by palm trees, creating an atmosphere of total relaxation.

A guest at Lorella Springs relaxes in the thermal pool near the homestead.

 

For something a bit more adventurous, head out to Stock Camp Swimming Hole on Rosie Creek, one of Lorella Springs Wilderness Park’s most peaceful and scenic waterholes – an outback oasis deep within the park.  Our APT guides referred to this swimming hole as the Stock Yards. The creek has a shallow, sandy bottom with tall paperbarks and pandanus palms lining its banks. The water was clear and refreshing.

Despite there being 18 of us swimming and picnicking on Rosie Creek, it was quiet and peaceful, like my own private sanctuary. It felt utterly remote!

People swimming in a shallow creek with gum trees lining its banks.

Stock Camp Swimming Hole on Rosie Creek is one of the most beautiful places to swim along the Savannah Way.

 

Lorella’s staff are always aware of crocodile movements and will advise you on safe swimming spots – essential in this remote part of the Gulf region.

Please note: Since 2023, Lorella Springs Wilderness Park has been closed to self-drive independent visitors due to Northern Territory bureaucracy and ‘red tape’. The park is now accessible only to visitors on pre-booked, organised outback tour groups.

Hell’s Gate Roadhouse (Cliffdale Station, Queensland)

[Westmoreland Road, QLD, on the Savannah Way]

Crossing into Queensland, about 50 kilometres from the Northern Territory border along a remote stretch of the Savannah Way, Hell’s Gate feels like the edge of the world, with its vast, open landscape and endless sky.

About 200 metres from the accommodation block, you’ll find a sandy-bottom swimming hole surrounded by the red dirt and eucalyptus trees typical of outback Australia – a refreshing spot to cool off.

A waterhole surrounded by gum trees and red dirt.

Who wouldn’t be tempted to take a dip in this picturesque swimming hole at Hell’s Gate Roadhouse?

 

Given how remote Hell’s Gate Roadhouse is, always check with the roadhouse staff before swimming. They’ll know whether it’s safe, as crocodiles can occasionally move through nearby creeks after rain.

Copperfield Gorge (Einasleigh, Queensland)

[Gregory Development Road, Einasleigh, QLD 4871]

Further east in Queensland’s Gulf Country, the landscape changes again, and Copperfield Gorge stands out as one of the region’s most striking natural formations, with its deep chasms, rockpools, peaceful beaches, and narrow channels.

A narrow gorge with basalt cliffs.

Swim with the locals at the stunning Copperfield Gorge.

 

Located just a short walk from the old copper mining town of Einasleigh on the Savannah Way alternate route, the gorge has been carved over time by the Copperfield River, creating sheer basalt walls that drop into a sandy riverbed and exposing ancient lava flow layers. It’s a stunning spot to walk along its walls, take a swim, and capture photos of the contrasting colours.

In truth, Copperfield Gorge isn’t ‘crocodile-free’, as locals say there are freshwater crocodiles in the gorge, but they will leave you alone if you do the same. Still, I feel it’s my duty to warn you that you swim at your own risk.

A note on freshwater crocodiles:

Freshwater crocodiles (Johnston River Freshwater Crocodiles) are less aggressive and dangerous than saltwater crocodiles (Estuarine Crocodiles). They are generally shy and will flee from people but will defend themselves if provoked – if they feel cornered, are startled, or are defending a nest. While bites typically cause injuries like puncture wounds and lacerations, there are no known fatalities from freshwater crocodile attacks in Australia.

How to avoid an attack from a freshwater crocodile:

  • Do not disturb or try to catch a freshwater crocodile.
  • Keep at least ten metres away from them, even if they seem to be sleeping.
  • Never feed wild crocodiles or leave food scraps near water sources, as this can encourage them to associate humans with food.
  • Keep pets on a lead and away from the water’s edge.
  • Be especially cautious at night, dusk, and dawn. Crocodiles are more likely to be hunting during these times and are harder to spot.

Practical Information – Planning Your Savannah Way Adventure

The Savannah Way spans a vast distance, connecting tropical rainforests, cattle stations, national parks, and small outback towns. To get the most out of your trip, plan carefully, especially when heading into remote areas.

Best time to go:

Travel the Savannah Way during the dry season (April to October) when you will experience cooler weather and easier access to remote areas.

Avoid the wet season (November to March), as sections of the Savannah Way can be affected by heavy rain, causing flooding, impassable river crossings, and bringing crocodiles into new waterways.

Road and travel tips:

  • Some stretches of the Savannah Way are unsealed and better suited to a 4WD vehicle.
  • Carry plenty of water, fuel, and food as services are far apart.
  • Stay in national park campgrounds, roadhouses, or remote stations for an authentic outback experience.
  • Check road conditions regularly through local councils or traveller information centres.

Crocodile Safety Summary

  • Always check with locals or rangers before swimming.
  • Obey any warning signs.
  • Avoid swimming at night, dawn, or dusk.
  • Stay out if you’re unsure – the outback is beautiful, but it demands respect.

If you’re tracing my route, these five swimming holes form a memorable line across the top of Australia – from Mataranka in the Northern Territory to Einasleigh in Queensland.

 

Exploring the Savannah Way is an adventure in every sense – wide horizons, rugged country, and those rare, magical moments when a cool, clear swimming hole appears in the middle of the outback. From the tropical warmth of Mataranka Thermal Pool and the tranquillity of Butterfly Falls to the remote serenity of Lorella Springs, the rugged beauty of Hell’s Gate, and the striking landscape of Copperfield Gorge, each stop offers a unique way to experience the heart of northern Australia.

While these swimming holes are usually considered crocodile-free, conditions can change at any time. Always speak with locals, rangers, or tour guides before entering the water to ensure conditions are safe on the day you visit. 

Whether you’re travelling independently or on a 4WD tour like APT’s Savannah Explorer, these refreshing pools, creeks, and gorges show that the outback isn’t just red dirt and wide-open spaces – it’s full of surprising, unforgettable places to swim, unwind, and connect with the landscape.  

If you’re planning your own Savannah Way trip, be sure to include these swimming holes. They’re some of the region’s true highlights.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025.

 

If you could travel to one of the swimming holes in this post right now, which one would it be?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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An image with two photos: a creek with a beach and black and white butterflies clinging to a cliff face.

An image with two photos: a waterhole and a creek.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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© Just Me Travel 2018-2025. All rights reserved.

 

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UNDARA: SEE AMAZING LAVA TUBES AND STAY IN UNIQUE ACCOMMODATION

Only in Undara Volcanic National Park, in Outback Queensland, Can You Combine a Guided Tour of Ancient Lava Tubes with a Stay in a Heritage Railway Carriage.   Deep in…

Only in Undara Volcanic National Park, in Outback Queensland, Can You Combine a Guided Tour of Ancient Lava Tubes with a Stay in a Heritage Railway Carriage.

 

Deep in the heart of outback Queensland lies one of Australia’s most fascinating geological wonders – the Undara Lava Tubes. Here, ancient volcanic activity has shaped vast underground tunnels, now silent witnesses to millions of years of natural history. My visit to Undara Volcanic National Park combined adventure and nostalgia – exploring the incredible lava tubes by day and sleeping in a beautifully restored turn-of-the-century railway carriage at Discovery Resorts – Undara by night. It was a perfect mix of geology, history, and outback hospitality.

I visited Undara Lava Tubes with APT (Australian Pacific Touring) on their 12-Day Savannah Explorer 4WD Tour, travelling from Darwin to Cairns along the Savannah Way.

 

About Undara Volcanic National Park

Situated on the McBride Volcanic Province, about 275 kilometres southwest of Cairns and around 420 kilometres northwest of Townsville, Undara Volcanic National Park is part of the Gulf Savannah region in outback Tropical North Queensland. The park features one of the world’s longest lava tube systems, formed over 190,000 years ago when the Undara Volcano erupted. This event caused molten lava to flow over 160 kilometres across the landscape, mainly down the western side of the Great Dividing Range – the world’s longest flow from a single volcano. This flow created the geological phenomenon now known as the Undara Lava Tubes.

As the outer layers of the lava cooled and hardened, the molten lava inside continued to flow, eventually draining away to create hollow tubes – nature’s own underground corridors. Today, the Undara Lava Tubes provide a rare opportunity to explore the remains of this ancient eruption and marvel at nature’s power.

‘Undara’ is an Aboriginal word meaning ‘long way’ – a fitting name for one of the world’s longest lava tube cave systems.

The Undara Lava Tubes Tour 

Access to the lava tubes is only possible through a guided tour to ensure visitor safety and protect the fragile environment.

After settling into our historic railway carriage accommodation at Discovery Resorts – Undara, our APT group joined our experienced Savannah Guide for the leisurely, two-hour Archway Explorer Lava Tube Tour.

Map displaying the Undara Lava Tubes and the accessible volcanic caves inside the tubes.

 

As it happened, our guide was a geologist who was very informative, easy to understand, and entertaining, keeping us engaged throughout the tour.

The Archway Explorer Lava Tube Tour is so named because of the archway formed when a weaker section of the lava tube’s roof collapsed. Descending through the archway and into the lava tube was an eerie experience, offering a breathtaking glimpse into the ancient forces that shaped Australia’s landscape. The drop in temperature, the increasing darkness, and the unique mosaic colours on the ceiling as I went further into the hollow lava tube felt like stepping into another world.

Descending the steps through the volcanic archway to the entrance of the lava tube.

 

The tour guides you along boardwalks and stairs with handrails that are suitable for most people. It is not accessible for wheelchairs or strollers.

Two woman descend stairs to the boardwalk that lead inside a cave.

The Archway Explorer Lava Tube Tour took us inside the hollow volcanic tube.

 

The unique mosaic appearance of the lava tube ceilings is created by mineral deposits seeping through the volcanic rock and by the oxidation of iron, which rusts over time.

 

Our guide took us to the entrance of a larger lava tube, but we weren’t allowed inside for safety reasons due to a recent roof collapse.

Tips:

  • Wear enclosed shoes, a hat, and sunscreen.
  • Bring a camera and a water bottle.
  • Tours run throughout the operating season (April to October) but can vary in duration and accessibility depending on the weather.

Staying at Discovery Resorts – Undara

Discovery Resorts – Undara is located on the edge of the Undara Volcanic National Park and is one with nature.

Our APT tour group was accommodated in the resort’s charming heritage railway carriages, which have won Australian Tourism Awards in the unique accommodation category. Built in the early 1900s, they have been lovingly refurbished to provide a cosy, comfortable stay. While each carriage retains its vintage character, with polished timber, brass fittings, and period furnishings, there is no shortage of comfort – with private en-suites, tea and coffee-making facilities, a small fridge, and air conditioning.

The historic, turn-of-the-century train carriage accommodation at Discovery Resorts – Undara.

 

 

The renovated railway carriage’s en-suite was small but sufficient.

 

There’s something delightfully nostalgic about falling asleep in a train carriage surrounded by the sounds of the Australian bush. It was the best night’s sleep I had all trip!

The railway carriages are not Discovery Resorts – Undara’s only means of accommodation, as they aim to cater to every budget with a variety of options – from Pioneer Huts and homesteads to powered and unpowered sites and swag tents.

Discovery Resorts – Undara doesn’t just stop at accommodation. I had a delicious lunch and dinner at the resort’s fully licensed restaurant, the Fettler’s Iron Pot Bistro. The meals were good country cooking, and the service was excellent.

Please note that all accommodation and dining facilities at Discovery Resorts – Undara are closed from November to March.

Other Things to Do While Staying at Discovery Resorts – Undara

One night’s stay at Discovery Resort – Undara was too short, as I didn’t get the opportunity to explore Undara Volcanic National Park’s walking trails. The resort offers self-guided bushwalking trails that wind through open savannah, leading to scenic viewpoints and wildlife-rich areas.

Also available is the Wildlife at Sunset Tour, where your guide will identify native wildlife and bird species as the outback sky turns fiery red and orange – all while enjoying sparkling wine and nibbles, before heading to the entrance of a lava tube to watch microbats emerge at night.

Don’t leave Undara without trying the resort’s Bush Breakfast served daily at Ringers’ Camp, just a short walk from the resort. Sitting on logs with ingenious cup holders, surrounded by the bush, and watched over by kookaburras, it’s a truly unique experience. Enjoy a continental and cooked buffet-style breakfast, along with freshly boiled billy tea as you toast your own bread over the campfire.

People gather around outdoor open fires and a bar-b-que, boiling tea and cooking breakfast.

The Undara Bush Breakfast – an experience you shouldn’t miss.

 

How to Get There 

Undara Volcanic National Park is located about a 3.5-hour drive southwest of Cairns along the Savannah Way in Tropical North Queensland. The journey itself is part of the adventure, taking you through remote outback scenery and small country towns.

The easiest way to reach Undara is by car, as it gives you the flexibility to explore at your own pace. The road to Undara is sealed all the way from Cairns, Townsville, and Georgetown, suitable for 2WD and 4WD vehicles and towing a caravan. Guided tours and transfers from Cairns are also available through several operators.

I visited Undara as part of APT’s 12-day Savannah Explorer 4WD tour, which follows the Savannah Way from Darwin to Cairns (a reverse trip from Cairns to Darwin is also available) – an excellent option for travellers who prefer a fully guided experience without the hassle of self-driving.

Please note that Discovery Resorts – Undara and the lava tube tours operate seasonally, open from 1 April to 30 October each year. Outside these dates, access to the resort and guided tours is unavailable, so plan your trip accordingly.

When to go 

The Undara Lava Tubes and Discovery Resorts – Undara are open seasonally, from 1 April to 30 October each year. This period corresponds with northern Queensland’s dry season, when the days are typically warm and sunny, humidity is low, and evenings are cooler – ideal for exploring the outback. During these months, roads are easily accessible, tours operate regularly, and walking trails are open.

From November to March, both the resort and lava tube tours close for the wet season, when heavy rainfall makes access difficult.

So, plan your visit between April and October when Undara’s landscapes are at their most inviting and you can fully enjoy both the geological wonders and the unique accommodation.

 

Visiting Undara Volcanic National Park was like uncovering one of Australia’s best-kept natural secrets. Exploring the Undara Lava Tubes showcased the incredible power of the Earth’s ancient forces, while sleeping in a heritage railway carriage at Discovery Resorts – Undara was a unique and nostalgic experience that captured the true spirit of the Australian outback.

Whether you come to marvel at the underground creativity of nature, explore the expansive savannah landscape, or enjoy unusual accommodation, Undara is a destination you shouldn’t miss. It’s a place where Earth’s history meets human ingenuity and where the outback truly comes alive.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025.

 

If you were planning a trip to the Australian outback, would you choose a guided lava tube tour with an overnight stay in a heritage train carriage? Why or why not?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

Like this post? Save it for later! 

an image with two photos: descending wooden steps under a rock arch and a heritage red train carriage.

An image with two photos: a map showing lava tubes and caves and a wodden boaradwalk inside the lava tube.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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© Just Me Travel 2018-2025. All rights reserved.

 

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