Beautiful Melk Abbey Review – A River Cruise Tour You Should Not Miss. Sailing down the Danube River through Austria’s Wachau Valley, a sight came into view that seemed…
Beautiful Melk Abbey Review – A River Cruise Tour You Should Not Miss.
Sailing down the Danube River through Austria’s Wachau Valley, a sight came into view that seemed straight out of a storybook – Melk Abbey, perched high on a rocky outcrop overlooking the water. With its golden-yellow Baroque façade gleaming in the sunlight, this magnificent Benedictine monastery promised grandeur, history, and breathtaking views.
As part of a river cruise through central Europe, visiting Melk Abbey was a cultural and architectural highlight I won’t forget. From ornate ceilings and staircases to a library that feels like something out of a fantasy novel, the abbey offered a fascinating glimpse into Austria’s monastic past and Baroque artistry. Whether you’re a history lover, an architecture enthusiast, or someone seeking a unique stop along the Danube, Melk Abbey provides a memorable experience.
In this post, I share what makes Melk Abbey a standout destination, how I experienced it, and why it deserves a place on your Austrian travel itinerary.
About Melk Abbey
Melk Abbey is a magnificent Benedictine monastery in Lower Austria and a masterpiece of Baroque architecture. It is Austria’s largest Baroque structure and one of Europe’s biggest and most beautiful.
The abbey is perched high on a cliff overlooking the Old Town of Melk and the Danube River. It lies at the confluence of the Danube and Melk rivers within the Wachau UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The abbey you see today was built between 1702 and 1736. But Melk Abbey has more than 930 years of history, told in the abbey’s museum. Originally a palace, Melk Abbey was gifted to the Benedictine monks in 1089 and has remained an active abbey ever since. Today, Melk Abbey has 22 monks, a co-educational secondary school with 900 pupils, an extremely well-presented, minimalist museum, and a magnificent church.
My first glimpse of Melk Abbey from the cruise ship on the Danube River was absolutely breathtaking. From every angle, it was impressive – a fairytale vision brought to life. With its ochre-coloured façade and imposing Baroque architecture, Melk Abbey is among the most beautiful buildings. You might have gathered by now that I was truly awestruck by it, and the approach to the abbey’s entrance and guided tour only cemented my delight.
The approach to Melk Abbey’s entrance is through a small garden.
Touring Melk Abbey: Highlights and Impressions
The 50-minute guided tour of Melk Abbey (arranged by Viking Cruises) includes the museum rooms, the Marble Hall, the Balcony, and the library. It began with a meet and greet in the expansive outer courtyard, the Gatekeeper’s Courtyard. In this courtyard, there is an oak wood statue of Saint Coloman. The sculpture, crafted by Franz Gundacker using only a chainsaw, is 150 years old, and the oak was sourced from the abbey’s forests.
Saint Coloman was Austria’s first patron saint until 1663. He remains the patron saint of Melk Abbey and the town of Melk and is buried in the abbey church.
From the Gatekeeper’s Courtyard, we passed through the Benedict Hall and into the Prelate’s Courtyard.
The 150-year-old wooden sculpture of Saint Coloman in the Gatekeeper’s Courtyard, patron saint of Melk Abbey.
The beautiful Baroque entrance to Melk Abbey’s Prelate’s Courtyard, accessed from the Gatekeeper’s Courtyard.
The Prelate’s Courtyard features four vivid, contemporary frescoes, replacing the Baroque frescoes that could not be restored. These frescoes represent the four cardinal virtues: Prudence, Temperance, Justice, and Fortitude. The modernist style of the frescoes caused some controversy as people tried to adjust to the move away from the original and expected Baroque style.
Melk Abbey’s modern fresco of the cardinal virtue of Prudence.
Melk Abbey’s modern fresco of the cardinal virtue of Temperance.
Melk Abbey’s modern fresco of the cardinal virtue of Justice.
Melk Abbey’s modern fresco of the cardinal virtue of Fortitude.
Leaving the Prelate’s Courtyard through a narrow passageway, the grand Imperial Staircase leads to the Imperial Wing, the abbey’s museum and library. Known for its impressive scale and Baroque design, it is a significant feature of the abbey’s architecture.
The abbey museum and imperial rooms
The Imperial Wing was originally designed for the imperial court. It consists of the Imperial Corridor and the Imperial Rooms, which now house the Melk Abbey Museum.
The Imperial Corridor, measuring 196 metres in length, is impressive. Portraits of Austria’s rulers adorn its walls – from the first Babenberg Emperor, Leopold I, to the last Habsburg Emperor, Karl I. There are more portraits of the Habsburgs since they ruled longer.
The Melk Abbey Museum, located in the imperial rooms to the left of the Imperial Staircase, is exceptionally well-organised and informative and adopts a minimalist approach. You gain a solid overview of the abbey’s history, both past and present, as well as its cultural, political, and economic functions, without feeling overwhelmed or as though there is too much to absorb, ultimately leaving you none the wiser. There is no information overload here.
The museum consists of 11 small rooms. Its overriding theme is “The Path from Yesterday to Today: Melk Abbey in its Past and Present,” and each room features a specific theme. What follows are snippets of interesting information taken from the guide’s explanations throughout the museum tour and my impressions.
Room 3 (“The Ups and Downs of History”) features a wavy floor, symbolising life’s ups and downs. The flooring is not the original Baroque, as Napoleon was an unfortunate guest who burned documents on it.
Rooms 5 and 6 pay tribute to Melk Abbey’s contribution to the Baroque period. The Baroque period was a historical era marked by excess and all that glitters (gold and more gold). “Heaven on Earth” seems to be an appropriate theme for this period. However, Room 7’s “In the Name of Reason” theme represents new times and a sensible, frugal monarch. Joseph II said the Baroque style was too expensive, but perhaps he was too frugal. Taking the Baroque style to the opposite extreme, he allowed only one coffin per church. The coffin designed to meet this requirement had a bottom that would open, allowing the corpse to drop through. Thus, the church could use the coffin again and again.
Room 10 (“To Glorify God in Everything”) contains a 17th-century iron chest for secure storage and transporting the abbey’s most important documents and treasures. The chest features a convoluted locking mechanism comprising 14 still operational locks.
The detailed model of Melk Abbey housed in Room 11 (“Motion is a Sign of Life”) rotates, allowing you to see all sides unobstructed. A mirror on the ceiling provides a view into the model’s courtyards.
The Marble Hall served as a reception area for guests and a dining hall for the imperial family. The name ‘Marble’ Hall is somewhat misleading, as only the door frames are genuine marble. The ‘marble’ on the walls is faux marble. However, I could overlook this due to the magnificent ceiling fresco, which is complemented and framed by stunning architectural paintings.
The abbey library
The library is the second most important room in any Benedictine monastery, second only to the church.
My favourite library to date has been the Coimbra University Library in Portugal. However, the competition between that library and Melk Abbey’s Library would be close; both are stunningly beautiful, and there is something uniquely special about the mix of dark wood and old books.
The Melk Abbey library, completed in 1735, houses approximately 100,000 books and 1800 manuscripts, some dating back to the 9th century. The uniformity of the books on the inlaid bookshelves results from them being bound to match. With internal balconies, wooden sculptures, a massive free-standing world globe, figurines, and frescoed ceilings, the library offers an entrancing vision. It also exudes peace and tranquillity; it is a place where I could easily spend hours just sitting and soaking in the atmosphere. I am waxing lyrical here, but I can’t help it. The Melk Abbey Library does that to me. It’s no wonder Umberto Eco conducted his research for his book, The Name of the Rose, in Melk Abbey’s library. But more on that later.
The library’s upper floor, added in 1768 and accessed via a Rococo-style spiral staircase, is not open to the public.
Melk Abbey’s literary connection extends beyond the books in its historical library.
The Name of the Rose, written by Umberto Eco (1980), is a historical murder mystery (a medieval whodunit) set in an Italian Cistercian monastery in 1327.
But what does a story about murders in a Cistercian monastery in Italy have to do with a Benedictine monastery in Austria? The connection is Melk Abbey’s magnificent library. The focal point in The Name of the Rose is the library where all the murders take place. Melk Abbey’s library is said to be Eco’s inspiration for the library in The Name of the Rose.
But the connection goes deeper than that. One of Eco’s main characters in The Name of the Rose is Adso of Melk, a Benedictine novice from Melk Abbey. The Name of the Rose is Adso of Melk’s story, as he is the narrator. As a way of introduction, Adso of Melk informs us that he is writing his narrative, now an old man, at Melk Abbey. On the last page of The Name of the Rose, Adso of Melk tells the reader he is leaving his manuscript in the library of Melk Abbey.
The guided tour concluded in the library. I stayed behind to soak in the library’s ambience before visiting the church at the guide’s recommendation.
The abbey church
My visit to Melk Abbey’s church was not part of the guided tour, but it is a must-see due to its Baroque architecture and ornate interior of gold leaf, stucco, and marble.
The Altar of Coloman is noteworthy because it contains a sarcophagus with the remains of Saint Coloman, the patron saint of Melk Abbey. Some of the Babenbergs, Austria’s first rulers, are also buried in the church.
Melk Abbey’s church is viewed from The Balcony.
The Balcony connecting Marble Hall with the library offers magnificent views of Melk’s Old Town and the Melk and Danube rivers.
Helpful Information
Photography is prohibited inside Melk Abbey’s museum, Marble Hall, the library, and the church.
You don’t have to take the 50-minute guided tour of Melk Abbey (except in the winter months). However, in my opinion, this would be a false economy, as the explanations provided by the guide throughout the tour were invaluable. The guide’s storytelling brought Melk Abbey to life, revealing all its traits.
Melk Abbey’s brochure for individual guests provides detailed information on prices, guided tour times, and a tourist map of the abbey.
I visited Melk Abbey on a shore excursion during a river cruise along the Danube River. However, you can reach Melk by train from Vienna if you’re not on a river cruise. I recommend leaving enough time to explore the old town of Melk.
Melk Abbey isn’t just a beautiful building perched above the Danube; it’s a living piece of Austrian history, rich in art, culture, and spiritual significance. Touring its imperial rooms, ornate church, and the awe-inspiring library was unforgettable. It’s no surprise that Melk Abbey is one of the most photographed stops on Danube River cruises.
Whether cruising through the Wachau Valley or planning a land-based visit, Melk Abbey is absolutely worth your time. It’s a place where history breathes through frescoed ceilings, golden altars, and ancient manuscripts. It was a highlight of the cruise and one of the most memorable experiences of my trip through Austria.
If you’re looking for a cultural gem that combines architecture, history, and fabulous scenery, include Melk Abbey in your itinerary. You won’t be disappointed; I guarantee it is something special.
Editor’s Note: I first published this blog post in November 2019 and have since revised it for accuracy, thoroughness, and relevance.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
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Capture Amsterdam: A Traveller’s Honest Review of a Unique Photo Tour. Amsterdam is one of the most photogenic cities in the world, with its iconic canals, historic architecture, and…
Capture Amsterdam: A Traveller’s Honest Review of a Unique Photo Tour.
Amsterdam is one of the most photogenic cities in the world, with its iconic canals, historic architecture, and vibrant street life. But how do you go beyond the usual tourist snapshots and truly capture the essence of this stunning city? The answer: a photography tour.
On my last trip to Amsterdam, I joined Amsterdam Photo Safari for both a day and a night walking photography tour. This experience not only helped me see Amsterdam in a whole new light but also allowed me to improve my photography skills with the guidance of a professional photographer. With a local expert leading the way, I discovered hidden spots I would never have found on my own, refined my composition techniques, and experimented with camera settings to capture the city’s charm.
If you’re looking for a unique way to explore Amsterdam, here’s everything you need to know about my experience with Amsterdam Photo Safari and why a photography tour is worth considering.
About Amsterdam Photo Safari
Amsterdam Photo Safari is a specialised guided photography tour designed to help visitors capture the city’s beauty while learning valuable photography techniques from a fun and inspiring photographer guide.
What makes Amsterdam Photo Safari special?
Tours are conducted by professional photographers offering practical guidance while sharing tales of the city’s history, culture, and personal narratives.
The tours highlight hidden gems, venturing beyond the usual tourist spots.
Tours are tailored to cater to all skill levels, from beginners to advanced photographers. Non-photographing companions are also welcome.
Day and night tours are scheduled to depart at times to capture the best lighting conditions.
Group and private tours are available, with a maximum of four people shooting in group tours.
Whether you’re using a DSLR, mirrorless camera, point-and-shoot, or smartphone, the tour is designed to enhance your photography skills while discovering the best of Amsterdam.
My Experience: A Day and Night Photography Tour
I’m always keen to enhance my photography skills and learn how to better use my camera’s settings. What better way to achieve this while capturing the essence of a city than on a photography tour with a local? That’s precisely what I did when I signed up for two photography tours with Amsterdam Photo Safari – a night walk photography tour and a day walk photography tour.
Ruud was my photographer guide on both photography tours. Amsterdam is his home, and I had him to myself for both tours. This was pure luck as I hadn’t booked private tours. He unveiled this fantastic city’s personality as we walked around Amsterdam’s districts, opening its beating heart and multi-faceted soul. Ruud took me to places I would never have visited as a tourist. His knowledgeable stories brought Amsterdam to life for me. According to Ruud, “Every photo has a story, and to every story, there is a photo”. Not only did I feel I improved my photography skills from Ruud’s guided tuition, an excellent teacher, but I discovered Amsterdam from a born storyteller. I found my time with Rudd increased my consciousness of my surroundings. Particularly in terms of what to photograph, what will make an interesting photo, and what will make a photo pop. Thank you, Ruud.
Night tour: Exploring Amsterdam after dark
My night photography tour began before sunset, at 5.30 pm. As such, I experienced Amsterdam through daylight, dusk, and night shooting. Amsterdam is magical at night, with illuminated bridges, glowing windows, and streetlights reflected on the canals.
We spent most of the night tour in the Jordaan, a district now popular with the wealthy as they convert old brewery warehouses along the canals into trendy homes. Ruud grew up in the Jordaan and brought the area to life as he explained the history behind what I was photographing. For instance, he pointed out why hooks and pulleys hang from the tops of warehouses (now homes), translated the meanings of the picture tiles on the fronts of buildings, and explained the history behind the cannons with three crosses that line the streets.
Did you know that the three St. Andrew’s crosses seen all over Amsterdam – on flags, buildings, manhole covers and even on the poles that stop cars from driving on the pavement – represent the city’s official motto, “Valliant, Steadfast, Compassionate”?
A cannon (stopping cars driving on the bridge) with three crosses – the symbol of Amsterdam’s motto.
What I loved about the night tour:
I mastered long-exposure photography, an area I was previously unfamiliar with. This has opened a whole new genre of photography for me.
I learned how to adjust ISO and shutter speed for low-light conditions.
I became confident in using manual focus, with Rudd showing me how it better captures a subject that is, for example, reflected in a window or puddle.
I enjoyed soaking up the atmosphere of Amsterdam at night.
Two of my favourite shots were long-exposure images: one of a boat’s light trail as it glided along a canal and the other of building lights reflected in the water. Both scenes would have been difficult for me to capture on my own. Ruud provided invaluable tips on balancing exposure, using a tripod effectively, and composing stunning night images.
A canal boat passing in front of houses on a canal in Amsterdam becomes a transparent, colourful trail of lights through long exposure.
Long exposure: The lights from several buildings along one of Amsterdam’s main canals are reflected in the water.
Day tour: Capturing Amsterdam in natural light
I started my day photography tour in the late morning. Rudd took me to the Maritime Museum for some architectural shots, as the museum resembles a sinking ship with its bow in the air. We then strolled around the harbour, where only boats older than 100 years may moor. We wandered down picturesque streets, quiet courtyards, and lesser-known canals.
What I loved about the day tour:
I explored neighbourhoods away from the tourist crowds.
I learned how to frame my shots more creatively.
I experimented with reflections, capturing them in windows and canals.
Learning from Rudd how to tell a story with my photos instead of merely snapping them.
One of my highlights was capturing the street reflected in the windows of a building using manual focus. I’ve always shied away from manual focus, relying instead on autofocus, so manually focusing a shot posed a challenge. Ruud patiently guided me through the manual focus process – when to use it, how to set the focal point, and how to recompose.
The reflections in the windows of this building were like eyes on the street, lending the building a character all its own – quintessential Amsterdam.
Why a Photography Tour is a Great Way to Explore Amsterdam
A photography tour offers a unique and enriching way to explore a destination. Here are several reasons why joining a photography tour, like Amsterdam Photo Safari, can be a great experience:
See Amsterdam Differently: A photography tour encourages you to slow down and notice details you might otherwise miss, such as reflections in canals, hidden alleyways, or interesting architectural details. It’s a chance to experience the city beyond the usual tourist perspective.
Learn from a Local Expert: A professional photographer will give you insider knowledge about the best photo spots, perfect angles, and effective lighting techniques. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced photographer, the hands-on guidance will enhance your skills in lighting, camera settings, and creative approaches.
Capture Unique and Authentic Moments: Unlike traditional sightseeing tours, a photography tour helps you focus on storytelling through images, allowing you to capture unique and artistic shots instead of generic tourist photos – photos that truly reflect your experience.
Discover Hidden Gems and Local Secrets: Photographer guides know the city and can take you to locations that tourists rarely visit, offering fresh perspectives of Amsterdam beyond the usual landmarks.
Experience Amsterdam in the Best Light: Timing is everything in photography. Photography tours take place at different times of the day, allowing you to see Amsterdam in various moods and lighting conditions.
Travel with Like-Minded People: Photography tours bring together people who share a passion for capturing beautiful moments. It’s an opportunity to exchange ideas, gain inspiration, and enjoy the creative process with fellow travellers.
Save Time Searching for the Best Spots: Your photographer guide has already scouted the most photogenic locations, saving you hours of research and guesswork. You’ll be in the right place at the right time to get the perfect shot.
Develop a Deeper Connection with Amsterdam: Taking the time to frame shots and observe details enhances your appreciation for Amsterdam’s culture, history, and atmosphere.
Bring Home More Than Just Memories: Rather than generic tourist snapshots, you’ll return home with meaningful, high-quality images that truly reflect your experience – photos you’ll be proud to share and revisit.
Overall, a photography tour can be an exciting and rewarding experience for photographers of all levels.
Practical Information
Don’t do a night and day photography tour back-to-back! Both tours involve a lot of constant walking, and you need to have the stamina to keep going. I must admit, by 3.30 pm on the day tour (the day after my night tour), I was ready to sit down and not get up again.
I booked my tours directly through Amsterdam Photo Safari. Living in Australia, I communicated with them via email, but bookings can also be made using WhatsApp. Booking with Amsterdam Photo Safari was incredibly easy, thanks to their prompt and detailed responses to my queries. Once I booked, communication from Amsterdam Photo Safari didn’t stop; they kept me informed about who my photographer guide would be, the meeting place and time and even suggested places worth visiting near Amsterdam.
Tour prices vary depending on the duration (three, five or seven hours) and type of tour (group or private). I paid for my tours through PayPal (no account required).
What to Bring
A camera (DSLR, mirrorless, point-and-shoot, or smartphone). I use a Nikon DSLR.
A tripod is essential for night photography tours. You can hire one from Amsterdam Photo Safari for €30.
For night photography, you will need a remote shutter release or know where the timer is in your camera settings. I had left my remote shutter release in my hotel room (clever!) and couldn’t remember how to set the in-camera timer. Though “not overly familiar” with Nikon cameras (he uses a Sony), Ruud wasn’t fazed by this and quickly found the in-camera timer.
Comfortable walking shoes are a must. Although the tours include breaks where you get to sit down, you’ll be walking a lot. Fortunately, Amsterdam is flat.
Weather-appropriate clothing. On this trip, I travelled to Amsterdam at the end of summer. The temperature was mild, and after having rained all day, the skies were clear for the night photography tour. There was a spell of heavy rain during the day photography tour; however, it had stopped by the time we finished our lunch break.
Bring an open mindset and be prepared to be challenged. Ruud was particularly enthusiastic about using a shallow depth of field, suggesting that I set the camera’s f-stop to f/3.5 (the lowest my camera allows). For those unfamiliar with photography, a shallow depth of field means the immediate foreground is in focus, such as a box of flowers or a bicycle. At the same time, the background appears out of focus (blurred). My passion lies in travel photography, and I questioned whether such a shallow depth of field would meet my needs. Ruud argued that even though the background is blurred, it remains recognisable and results in a more creative photo. Check out the photo below for a visual explanation of what I’m talking about. Although I went along with Ruud’s suggestion, I thought I would never use such a shallow depth of field in my travel photography. I tend to prefer having everything in focus. Yet, to my surprise, I found myself using f/3.5 during my further travels through Europe and quietly thanked Ruud. Now, I have some pretty good, creative photos to add to my memories of the places I’ve visited.
Most of all, enjoy yourself!
Shallow depth of field: The flowers are sharp (in focus), while the canal boats are blurred (out of focus).
Final Thoughts: Is Amsterdam Photo Safari Worth It?
Absolutely! Whether you’re a photography enthusiast or just want to see Amsterdam in a unique way, Amsterdam Photo Safari’s photography tours offer an unforgettable experience. Ruud’s extensive knowledge and passion for the city and photography made the tour educational, fun, and inspiring.
Would I do it again? Without a doubt! If you love travel photography or simply want a fresh perspective on Amsterdam, I highly recommend Amsterdam Photo Safari.
My Amsterdam Photo Safari tours were more than just photography sessions; they were an opportunity to engage with the city meaningfully and creatively. With expert guidance, I discovered photogenic spots off the beaten path, gained a deeper understanding of my camera, and left with a portfolio of photos I’m truly proud of.
This experience reminded me that photography isn’t just about taking pictures – it’s about seeing a destination through fresh eyes. If you want to elevate your photography and experience Amsterdam in a unique and authentic way, I wholeheartedly recommend joining a tour with Amsterdam Photo Safari.
Editor’s Note: I first published this blog post in November 2019 and have since revised it for accuracy, thoroughness, and relevance.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
A River Cruiser’s Guide: The Best of Rothenburg in a Few Hours. Rothenburg ob der Tauber is the kind of place that feels like stepping into a medieval fairy…
A River Cruiser’s Guide: The Best of Rothenburg in a Few Hours.
Rothenburg ob der Tauber is the kind of place that feels like stepping into a medieval fairy tale. With its half-timbered houses, cobblestone streets, and well-preserved city walls, this charming Bavarian town is a highlight for travellers exploring Germany. I visited Rothenburg on a shore excursion during a river cruise, which included an orientation walking tour before we were free to wander at our own pace. With just a couple of hours to explore, I set off on my own to soak up the town’s enchanting atmosphere, admire its stunning medieval architecture, and walk along the historic city walls. Here’s how I spent my free time in this picture-perfect destination.
About Rothenburg
Rothenburg is the common name for this German town, officially known as Rothenburg ob der Tauber. The translation of Rothenburg ob der Tauber is “Red Fortress above the Tauber.” This name is fitting, as the town sits on a plateau above the Tauber River. “Red Fortress” comes from “rot” (red) and “burg” (burgh, fortified settlement) and is attributed by some to the red roofs of Rothenburg’s houses within the fortifications.
‘Red Fortress’ – the red roofs of Rothenburg’s houses within its fortifications.
Rothenburg represents 1,000 years of history in the making. Once one of the largest cities in the Holy Roman Empire, it survived a siege in 1631 during the Thirty Years’ War between Protestant and Catholic states (1618-1648) and faced stagnation in 1634 due to poverty and plague. This latter factor preserved Rothenburg in its 17th-century form. Rothenburg emerged from WWll largely intact because the invading British army recognised and valued its historical significance. However, I do not intend for this post to be a history lesson. Instead, I want to focus on showcasing Rothenburg visually. Through my photographs, I aim to stir your senses and encourage you to step back in time and explore this beautiful town.
Why choose Rothenburg for your optional river cruise shore excursion when docked in Wurzburg? With its medieval architecture, narrow cobblestone streets and intact fortification wall, Rothenburg is considered one of the prettiest towns in Germany. It is a medieval town frozen in time and considered Europe’s most perfectly preserved, medieval walled city. Rothenburg is one of Germany’s last remaining walled medieval towns, reached via the ‘Romantic Road’ in the Franconia region of Bavaria in southern Germany. There are photo opportunities everywhere you look.
I chose this excursion because I couldn’t resist visiting a place where the river cruise documents described it as ‘romantic’, ‘walled’, ‘medieval’, ‘preserved’, ‘inviting’, and ‘picturesque’. I was not disappointed and immediately loved this picture-perfect medieval walled town. With its half-timbered houses, elaborate shop signs and window boxes brimming with geraniums, every turn felt like a picture postcard moment.
Which shops do these signs represent? (Answers at the end of the post.)
Rothenburg is famous for its well-preserved architecture, which transports visitors back to the Middle Ages. One of the most striking aspects of Rothenburg’s architecture is its half-timbered houses, a hallmark of medieval German towns. These buildings feature exposed wooden beams, intricate carvings, and colourful facades, often painted in warm red, yellow, or green hues. The upper floors typically extend slightly over the lower ones, creating a quaint and picturesque effect.
Rothenburg is famous for its well-preserved half-timbered buildings.
Although primarily medieval in appearance, Rothenburg’s architecture also features elements of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The Lutheran St. James Church (St. Jakobskirche) is a prime example of Gothic architecture, with its soaring arches and intricate stained-glass windows. Meanwhile, Market Square’s Town Hall (Rathaus) blends Gothic and Renaissance styles with its medieval tower and an elegant Renaissance façade.
The Gothic architecture of St. James Church.
Rothenburg’s Town Hall, with its blend of Gothic and Renaissance architecture, and a medieval half-timbered building.
The best way to discover Rothenburg is to walk. Its relatively flat streets make it easy to walk around. However, due to its cobblestone streets, flat shoes are advisable.
Walking Rothenburg – a guided orientation tour
Arriving in Rothenburg, our guide led us on an orientation walking tour. The tour took us past St. James Church, through Market Square with its 13th-century Gothic/Renaissance Town Hall, and past fountains, museums, and fantastic architecture. Our guide also described the connection between the shops and their signage before the tour concluded at St. John’s Church.
With the orientation completed, we were left to spend our free time as we pleased.
Walking Rothenburg – free time
The Plonlein (“Small Square”) is the most Instagrammed photo in Rothenburg.
I was ready to explore and photograph Rothenburg, creating my own experience by following my feet. With only a couple of hours to do so, I directed my feet towards what the guide claimed was the town’s most Instagrammed photo (the Plönlein) before heading to its medieval fortifications.
Many people assume the name Plönlein refers to the tilted, crooked, yellow timber-framed house at the entrance to the hospital district (pictured above). In fact, the term Plonlein means “small square at the fountain,” thus also including the fountain in front of the yellow timber-framed house and the two towers of the old city wall on either side of it.
The Plönlein is the most iconic landmark in Rothenburg. It has appeared in several films, including Disney’s Pinocchio, and has inspired various video games, music videos, and comics.
Taking the Kobolzeller Gate (built 1360) to the right as you face the Plönlein’s yellow half-timbered house, I climbed the few steps to the town’s medieval wall. Rothenburg’s medieval wall, built in the 13th century, is four kilometres long and completely encircles the town’s historical centre. Walking along the wall, you will find six gates and 42 towers to explore. With my limited time, I only managed two gates (up through one gate and down through the next) and a handful of towers. Despite all the tourists in town, I had the wall to myself – an enjoyable experience.
Rothenburg’s medieval wall and houses inside the fortifications.
Rothenburg’s medieval wall and one of the 42 towers.
Coming off the wall, I walked in a large circle back to Market Square, photographing Rothenburg’s architecture and landmarks en route.
Image Gallery – Rothenburg ob der Tauber:
A picturesque street passes through one of Rothenburg’s 42 medieval towers.
St. John’s (Catholic) Church and Locust Fountain.
Horse Mill, built in 1516, is now Rothenburg’s youth hostel.
A beautiful half-timbered house.
A view of Rothenburg through the arch of a tower.
Cafes line Market Square.
I was back in Market Square in time for when the clock on the 14th century Councillor’s Tavern performed its hourly ritual. Our guide had informed us that every hour on the hour between 10.00 am and 10.00 pm, two doors open on either side of the clock face. Out of one door comes Rothenburg’s former Mayor, Nusch, and out of the other comes the Catholic General, Tilly, who challenged Nusch to drink a gallon tankard of wine in one go without stopping to save Rothenburg during the Thirty Years’ War. And save the town he did! It’s not the most interesting mechanical clock I have seen on my travels, but I did like the story behind it – the “Legend of the Master Draught”.
The 14th-century Councillor’s Tavern with the “Legend of the Master Draught” mechanical clock.
Unfortunately, my free time in Rothenburg had ended, and it was time for the drive back to the ship. And yet, I had much more to explore and to see and do.
Free time +
Do you have more than a few hours of free time for Rothenburg, say, two or three days? Yes! Here are my tips to help you expand your discovery of this historical picture-perfect destination.
Visit the gardens that replaced Rothenburg Castle, which was destroyed in an earthquake in 1356.
Walk the length of the medieval wall, exploring all the gates and towers.
Visit the Medieval Crime and Justice Museum in the Old Town.
Hike down into the valley and check out the vineyards.
Climb the Town Hall Tower to see the views for yourself rather than just read about them.
Check out the interior of St. James Church and its famous Holy Blood altarpiece.
Sit in a café in the Market Square and people-watch.
Try a Schneeball, a local sugary ball of deep-fried dough, even though our guide said they taste horrible.
Shop at Kathe Wohlfahart’s Christmas store, which is open all year round.
And much more.
I can only say, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, I will see you again.
My visit to Rothenburg ob der Tauber was nothing short of magical. As I wandered through the town’s narrow streets and along its ancient medieval wall, I was captivated by its stunning architecture and rich history. Each photograph I took seemed to capture a piece of Rothenburg’s timeless charm. Although my time there was short, it left a lasting impression on me. If you ever find yourself in Bavaria, Rothenburg is a destination you won’t want to miss. It’s a place where you can truly step back in time and immerse yourself in the beauty of the medieval era.
Quiz answers:
> The ‘cow’ sign was above the butcher shop.
> The ‘train’ sign was above the toy shop.
Editor’s Note: I first published this blog post in October 2019 and have since revised it for accuracy, thoroughness, and relevance.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
A Moving Sculpture Creates a Beautiful Place of Reflection and Reverence. Dear Pip, It is from a cold, dark place that I write you this postcard. A place that…
A Moving Sculpture Creates a Beautiful Place of Reflection and Reverence.
Shoes on the Danube Promenade – Budapest’s holocaust memorial.
Dear Pip,
It is from a cold, dark place that I write you this postcard. A place that reminds me of a horrific time in history – a time that should never be forgotten.
I refer to the Holocaust memorial, the “Shoes on the Danube Promenade” in Budapest, Hungary, dedicated “To the memory of victims shot into the Danube by Arrow Cross militiamen in 1944-45”.
The “Shoes on the Danube Promenade” monument was erected in April 2005. It comprises 60 life-size iron shoes sculpted by Gyula Pauer and stretching along a section of the Danube’s riverbank. Deliberately cast in the style of footwear worn in the 1940s, the shoes are in different sizes, representing the men, women, and children to whom this memorial is a tribute.
The “Shoes on the Danube Promenade” Holocaust memorial is dedicated to the thousands of Jews (approximately 20,000) executed along the Danube riverbank during 1944-1945. They were shot by members of the Hungarian fascist and anti-Semitic organisation, the Arrow Cross Party. The Jewish victims, standing on the riverbank, were forced to remove their shoes and face their executioner. The Arrow Cross militiamen then shot them, so they tumbled into the river. The river would then carry their bodies away, saving the killers from having the hard labour of digging graves. The victims were often forced to remove their shoes because shoes were a valuable commodity that the executioners could sell.
‘Sixty’ was not just a random number of shoes to include in the monument. It reflects the 600,000 Hungarian Jews who died during World War 2, and the memorial was created 60 years after the war.
The shoe sculptures lie scattered and abandoned on the bank of the Danube River on the Pest side of Budapest, between two well-known landmarks: the Chain Bridge and the Parliament Building. The memorial is unique, unlike anything I have ever seen. I found it poignant and haunting, even with all the tourists around, a place for reflection and contemplation.
I passed the “Shoes on the Danube Promenade” Holocaust memorial again several hours later after visiting the Parliament Building. Someone had put a white carnation into two of the shoes. I like to think it was the wedding couple being photographed nearby. On a day that was so memorable for them, they had taken the time to remember and honour those who so tragically had their memories taken from them. Perhaps they were remembering a family member.
This Holocaust memorial profoundly moved me (more so than any other I have visited on this trip), and I am thankful for my fortunate circumstances.
Love,
Joanna
A carnation flower is placed in one of the memorial shoes as a sign of remembrance.
Shoes on the Danube – commemoration of a tragedy.
Editor’s Note: I first published this blog post in August 2019 and have since revised it for accuracy, thoroughness, and relevance.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
Whispers of Royalty: A Brief Tour Through the Royal Treasures of the Loire Valley – Immerse Yourself in the Grandeur and Romance of Seven Exquisite French Castles. The Loire…
Whispers of Royalty: A Brief Tour Through the Royal Treasures of the Loire Valley – Immerse Yourself in the Grandeur and Romance of Seven Exquisite French Castles.
The Loire Valley, between Sully-sur-Loir and Chalonnes, was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000. This region in central France is famous for its stunning scenery, historical significance, and world-class wines, but it is best known for its spectacular chateaux. These grand structures, with their imposing facades, intricate details, and sprawling gardens, offer visitors a unique glimpse into centuries of royal splendour.
In this blog post, I invite you on a majestic journey through time and architecture, unveiling seven magnificent castles that have helped shape the Loire Valley’s iconic landscape. I’ll take you to the meticulously manicured gardens of Chateau de Villandry, the Renaissance grandeur of Chateau d’Amboise, and Chateau de Chenonceau’s graceful arches spanning the Cher River.
“See 7 Unique French Chateaux in the Beautiful Loire Valley” promises an unforgettable journey through a world of royal luxury and timeless charm. There is a chateau to captivate every visitor.
Getting around the chateaux
I have three suggestions for you on getting to the chateaux in the Loire Valley:
Indulge in the freedom of a self-drive road trip around the chateaux. If you don’t have your own vehicle, pick up a hire car in Tours and head to Chateau de Villandry for your first castle. You can catch the TGV (fast train) from Paris to Tours, visit the chateaux in the order presented in this post, and drop the hire car off in Orleans.
If you don’t like driving in a strange country, especially if this entails driving on the side of the road you are unfamiliar with, then a guided day tour or two may be the way to go.
Or, if you’re like me and want to visit the chateaux in the most relaxed fashion possible, take a river cruise on a hotel barge. A hotel barge cruise in the Loire Valley is a truly unique and unforgettable travel experience. It is a perfect way to relax, explore a beautiful region, and indulge in the finer things in life.
More than 300 chateaux are in the Loire Valley, and about 100 are open to the public. So, no matter how you plan to get around, you need to consider which chateaux you want to visit, as I doubt you will get to all of them.
This post takes you to the seven chateaux I visited with my family while cruising on a hotel barge on the Cher River.
Chateau de Villandry
Chateau de Villandry and ornamental garden.
Chateau de Villandry is located at the confluence of the Loire and Cher rivers. Completed in 1536, it was built on the site of an old 12th-century fortress, with the medieval tower still existing. The chateau exemplifies Renaissance architecture, characterised by symmetry, classical proportions, columns, and arches, while its richly decorated interior reflects various historical periods. However, it is the magnificent gardens that Chateau de Villandry is famous for, having been lovingly restored to their Renaissance glory in the early 1900s.
We were given a guided tour of Chateau de Villandry’s interior, but I most enjoyed spending time on my own, leisurely wandering around and exploring the exquisite gardens.
Chateau de Villandry’s gardens cover about nine hectares. They are laid out in a formal Renaissance style and divided into several terraces, including the Ornamental Garden, Water Garden, and Sun Garden.
Chateau de Villandry’s formal Renaissance-style gardens.
Chateau de Villandry’s formal Renaissance-style gardens are divided into several terraces.
I was particularly captivated by the 16th-century-style Kitchen Garden, where the vegetables are laid out in a colourful chequerboard pattern according to their type. Enough to make anyone want to eat their veggies!
Chateau de Villandry and the Kitchen Garden.
Chateau de Villandry’s Kitchen Garden.
Chateau de Villandry has been the home of the Carvallo family since 1906. It is an acknowledged historic monument and part of the Loire Valley UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Chateau d’Amboise
Chateau d’Amboise (The Royal Castle).
The stunning Chateau d’Amboise, also referred to as Chateau Royal d’Amboise, is a historically significant royal residence with a rich past.
Originally a medieval fortress, Chateau d’Amboise became a royal residence in the late 15th century when King Charles VIII transformed it into a luxurious palace. Later, King Francis I continued its development, turning the chateau into a symbol of the French Renaissance.
Chateau d’Amboise is a mix of Gothic and Renaissance architectural styles with impressive defence structures, such as round towers and fortified walls.
Chateau d’Amboise’s gothic architecture.
Chateau d’Amboise’s round tower.
The chateau is situated on top of a hill in the heart of Amboise, offering panoramic views of the Loire River, the valley, and the town below. It is surrounded by about two hectares of beautifully landscaped gardens and terraces within its walls.
Chateau d’Amboise’s landscaped gardens.
Amboise – the old quarter below the hilltop castle.
Chateau d’Amboise is part of the Loire Valley UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Chateau d’Amboise is particularly famous for its association with Leonardo da Vinci, the renowned Italian artist and polymath. King Francis I invited Da Vinci to France, and he spent his final three years at the nearby Chateau du Clos Luce. Leonardo da Vinci is buried in Saint-Hubert Chapel on the grounds of Chateau d’Amboise.
Leonardo da Vinci’s tomb in Chateau d’Amboise’s Saint Hubert Chapel.
Chateau du Clos Luce
Chateau du Clos Luce (Home of Leonardo da Vinci)
Chateau du Clos Luce is about 400 metres down the road from Chateau d’Amboise and is renowned for being Leonardo da Vinci’s final residence for the last three years of his life, from 1516 until he died in 1519.
In 1516, King Francis I invited Leonardo da Vinci to Amboise and provided him with the Chateau du Clos Luce as his residence. An underground passageway connects Chateau du Clos Luce and Chateau d’Amboise, enabling the King and da Vinci to meet daily without being recognised.
Chateau du Close Luce is a mix of Gothic and Renaissance architectural styles. It features a red brick and white stone façade, large windows, and elegant towers. Its interior reflects the period when Leonardo da Vinci lived in the chateau, with Renaissance furnishings and tapestries. We were given a guided tour of the rooms where Leonardo lived and worked, including his bedroom and studio.
Leonardo da Vinci’s bedroom in Chateau du Clos Luce.
A large park surrounds Chateau du Clos Luce – Parc Leonardo da Vinci. The park features landscaped gardens, water features, and life-sized models of Leonardo’s most ingenious inventions, including flying and war machines. I had fun walking around the park, learning more about Leonardo’s genius the further I explored – a unique open-air museum.
Model of Leonardo da Vinci’s tank in Leonardo da Vinci Park.
Chateau du Clos Luce is part of the Loire Valley UNESCO World Heritage Site and offers a unique glimpse into Leonardo da Vinci’s final years of life.
Chateau de Fontenay
Chatea de Fontenay (Wine and Dine!)
Chateau de Fontenay is a winegrowing estate on the banks of the Cher River, cultivating 15 hectares of vines.
If you ever fancied staying in a castle, look no further than Chateau de Fontenay, which offers several guest rooms. When not walking around the castle’s 17 hectares of parkland or joining a bicycle tour, you can visit the vineyards and cellars and enjoy a wine tasting.
Chateau de Fontenay’s splendour complements the scenic beauty along the Cher River.
Chateau de Chenonceau
Château de Chenonceau (The ‘Ladies Castle’)
While all the chateaux we visited on this trip were memorable, Chateau de Chenonceau was my absolute favourite. It was also the only Loire Valley chateau I knew of before our visit.
Completed in 1522, the chateau combines Gothic and Renaissance architectural styles. It has a rich history dominated by an almost uninterrupted succession of influential women who owned and managed its upkeep and construction over the centuries. This dominance of women owners has led to Chateau de Chenonceau being known as ‘The Ladies Castle’.
Chateau de Chenonceau’s famous five-arch bridge spanning the Cher River was built by Diana de Poitiers, mistress of King Henri II and the chateau’s first female owner. Its architecture is unique in the world. The bridge’s interior forms the iconic grey and white chequerboard floored Grand Gallery. At 60 metres long and six metres wide, the Grand Gallery hosted many lavish parties and dances.
Chateau de Chenonceau’s Grand Gallery spans the Cher River.
Complete your tour of Chateau de Chenonceau with a stroll through its themed gardens, showcasing the beauty of French Renaissance landscaping.
One of the gardens at Chateau de Chenonceau.
Chateau de Chenonceau was designated a Historic Monument by the French Ministry of Culture in 1840, a title it has retained to the present day.
We got to admire the beauty of this fairytale chateau from land, gliding beneath its arches on a barge and soaring above it in a hot-air balloon. This unparalleled experience provided a truly multifaceted perspective of this architectural gem.
Château de Chenonceau – Cruising the Cher River beneath its arches.
Aerial view of Chateau de Chenonceau taken from a hot air balloon.
Chateau de Blois
The facade of Chateau de Blois with a statue of King Louis XII seated on a horse over the entrance.
The Royal Chateau de Blois is so named because it was a favourite residence of seven kings and ten queens of France. Built around a massive courtyard, the chateau is a blend of architectural styles, with its four wings built in a different period of history and having its own architectural style.
Each wing is an example of four significant periods in French architecture from the Middle Ages to the 17th century:
Starting life as a medieval fortress in the 13th century, little remains of the buildings from this period.
The Louis XIII wing (1498-1500) with its Gothic architecture.
Chateau de Blois’ Louis XII wing.
The Francois I wing (1515-1518) has a Renaissance architectural style and a celebrated external corkscrew staircase.
Chateau de Blois – The Francois I wing with its external staircase.
The classical architecture of the Gaston d’Orleans wing (1635-1638).
Chateau de Blois’ Gaston d’Orleans wing
Chateau de Blois has been classified as a Historic Monument since 1845.
Chateau de Chambord
Chateau de Chambord (The Hunting Lodge!)
It is said that Chateau de Chambord is one of the most recognisable chateaux in the world because of its distinctive French Renaissance architecture, which blends traditional French medieval forms with classical Renaissance structures. However, I must admit I had never heard of Chateau de Chambord before my visit while cruising the Cher River.
All I can say is I was awestruck when I saw it! Chateau de Chambord is massive! It is the largest and most extravagant chateau in the Loire Valley, with 440 rooms, 84 staircases, and 282 fireplaces. Despite its size, it was built for King Francis I of France (commencing 1519) as a mere hunting lodge! I can well imagine that it did meet its intention as a symbol of King Francis I’s power and wealth.
Chateau de Chambord’s most famous feature is its spiral double helix staircase, consisting of two stairways spiralling around each other, allowing two people to ascend or descend at the same time without ever seeing each other. It is believed, though unsupported, that Leonardo da Vinci may have had a hand in designing this staircase.
The chateau’s roofline, with its numerous towers, chimneys, and dormer windows, resembles a small city from a distance.
Chateau de Chambord’s roofline looks like a small city.
The chateau is set in a vast 5,433-hectare park and hunting reserve enclosed by a 32-kilometre wall, making it the largest enclosed park in Europe.
Chateau de Chambord is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a must-see for any visitor to the Loire Valley. It has been owned by the French State since 1930.
As you and I conclude this journey to these magnificent chateaux of the Loire Valley, it’s clear that each offers a unique window into France’s rich history and architectural splendour. From the meticulously manicured gardens of Chateau de Villandry to the royal residence of Chateau d’Amboise, from Leonardo da Vinci’s final home at Chateau du Clos Luce to the elegance of Chateau de Chenonceau bridging the Cher River and from the architectural evolution on display at Chateau de Blois to the grand hunting lodge of Chateau de Chambord, each castle tells its captivating story.
I encourage you to embark on your own adventure through France’s beautiful Loire Valley, exploring its spectacular castles and creating memories that will last a lifetime. Whether you’re a history buff, a garden enthusiast, or simply seeking a touch of royal luxury, the French chateaux in the Loire Valley await, ready to reveal their treasures and transport you to a world of elegance, history, and wonder.
Let your heart be captured, and your imagination ignited!
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
Mountains, Museums, and Medieval Magic: Catalonia Unveiled Through Unforgettable Day Trips for Every Traveller. Welcome to my travel blog, where I am excited to share with you exceptional day…
Mountains, Museums, and Medieval Magic: Catalonia Unveiled Through Unforgettable Day Trips for Every Traveller.
Welcome to my travel blog, where I am excited to share with you exceptional day trips beyond the streets of Barcelona. Join me as I recount my unforgettable experiences on five diverse and awe-inspiring tours from Barcelona. From towering mountains to rugged coastlines, from quaint medieval villages frozen in time to the birthplace of Surrealism, these five exceptional tours take you to another world of Catalonian beauty and wonder.
Catalonia’s diverse landscapes offer a diversity of experiences. Embarking on day trips from Barcelona opens up a world of exploration, where each destination promises its unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. Whether you’re drawn to the spiritual heights of Montserrat, the sun-kissed shores of Costa Brava, the timeless charm of medieval villages, the rugged grandeur of the Pyrenees, or the artistic legacy of Salvador Dali, there’s a world of exploration waiting to be uncovered. Catalonia’s day trips have something for everyone!
I booked this tour from Australia before leaving for Spain.
Julia Travel promotes this small group trip as discovering “one of the most mystic Catalan wonders”.
Montserrat Monastery is an 11th-century Benedictine monastery on Montserrat Mountain (meaning ‘serrated mountain’), 60 kilometres northwest of Barcelona. The monastery hangs onto the side of the mountain 725 metres above sea level.
About 80 monks reside at the monastery, which is famous for the Black Madonna statue in the basilica and one of the oldest boys’ choirs in Europe.
Montserrat Monastery perched on the side of the mountain.
I took this photo of Montserrat Monastery across the valley at the Cross of St Michael.
The tour as I experienced it:
There were five of us on the Montserrat full-day tour, plus the guide. We travelled on the bus from Barcelona to Montserrat with the morning-only tour participants, separating into two groups (morning-only group and full-day group) on arrival at Montserrat Abbey.
An hour after leaving Barcelona, we arrived at the rack railway (also referred to as the Cremallera) at the bottom of Montserrat Mountain in the small town of Monistrol de Montserrat for the cogwheel train ride up the mountain to the centre of the Monserrat Monastery complex. The five-kilometre, 15-minute ride provided fantastic views of this unusual mountain. As you leave the train, pause to take in the views of the mountain that towers above the monastery and basilica and the deep valley below.
The morning was spent with our tour guide, learning about the monastery, visiting the basilica and Black Madonna, and watching a short documentary about the monastery’s world-famous Boys’ Choir (L’Escolania).
We could not see the Boys’ Choir perform in person as the boys were on school holidays.
The Atrium (open courtyard) in front of the Basilica and front facade of the Basilica.
The Black Madonna inside Montserrat Basilica.
The famous Black Madonna wooden statue sits behind glass at the back of the church above the high altar. We joined the queue of pilgrims and tourists to file past the Black Madonna, where many stopped to touch her hand through a cut in the glass.
According to our guide, the Madonna’s face is black due to a botched restoration in about the 12th century when the wrong varnish was used, turning her face black. It was decided to leave her face black, with locals saying that maybe the Madonna wanted a black face. However, historical descriptions of the Madonna say she has simply darkened over time. This latter theory makes more sense, given that the face of the baby Jesus sitting on Madonna’s lap also appears black.
The guided morning tour ended at 12.10 pm, and we were free to spend the rest of the day as we pleased, meeting again at 6.15 pm for the bus trip back to Barcelona.
With the afternoon free, I was eager to take a walk on Montserrat Mountain, starting at the top and walking down. To do this, I rode the Funicular de Sant Joan from Montserrat Monastery to the summit of Montserrat Mountain, about 300 metres above the monastery. I took the path to the left of the Funicular station that wound around and down the mountain to the Cross of Saint Michael (Sant Miquel)) and back down to the monastery.
The signpost at the beginning of the path indicated it was a 40-minute walk to the Cross of Saint Michael. The Cross was about one and a half hours into my very steep descent down Montserrat Mountain, and I still had about 20 minutes to go before I arrived back at the monastery. But I was in no hurry as I took in the spectacular views of Montserrat Mountain’s unique geological (‘serrated’) formation and the valleys and river below.
View from Montserrat (‘serrated’) Mountain.
Cross of Saint Michael and the valley below
While the walk down the mountain was not technically demanding (it’s a paved path nearly all the way), I did find the steep descent challenging. There were times when the decline was so steep my back was almost vertical to the path. The heat was another challenging factor. I’m sure I was on that mountain on its hottest day ever recorded!
Back at Montserrat Monastery, I had a late lunch at the cafeteria – a buffet that cost €19,50 and was not worth the money.
My tour review / final thoughts:
According to their website, Julia Travel no longer offers the full-day Montserrat tour from Barcelona that I did. Instead, they offer a morning (5.5 hours) and afternoon (4.5 hours) tour with the cogwheel train at €59 and €51, respectively.
Having done both the morning and full-day tours a few weeks apart, I believe a half-day tour does not allow time to immerse yourself in the beauty of the mountains where the monastery sits. While visiting the abbey and basilica and learning their history was interesting, the highlight for me was the walk on Montserrat Mountain. It would be a shame to miss out on one of the several walks you can take around Montserrat.
The Sant Jeroni walking trail on Montserrat Mountain
There was a communication issue with Julia Travel on this tour. Arriving in Montserrat, the guide sent us to grab a coffee as she was trying to contact Julia Travel to organise our entrance tickets into the basilica and the Black Madonna, delaying the start of the tour by half an hour. Then, when it came to leaving Montserrat, Julia Travel forgot there were five of us doing the full-day tour and supposedly leaving on the same bus as the afternoon tour. However, 50 people were on the afternoon tour, and it was a 50-seater bus. Consequently, we (the five full-day tour group) were taken off the bus and had to wait for another bus from Barcelona to come and get us. So, instead of leaving Montserrat at 6.15 pm, we left an hour later, arriving back in Barcelona at 8.10 pm. Luckily, it wasn’t dark as I had a 35-minute walk back to the hotel, and people were only starting to come out for dinner in restaurants then.
I found Julia Travel’s communication a repetitive problem. I had booked another tour with Julie Travel to Salvador Dali’s Theatre-Museum and Villages – a tour I was particularly keen on taking. However, arriving at 8.00 am at Julia Travel’s office on the day of the tour, I learned it had been cancelled. I received an apology for not being informed and a refund. However, this was not good enough and amounted to unacceptable customer service.
The setting alone makes Montserrat Monastery worth a visit. But it was the mountain walk that made this tour memorable for me.
Llobregat Valley and River taken from Montserrat Mountain
Explore Catalunya promotes this small group trip as the “Best tour for Dali enthusiasts, and you’ll see hidden treasures off the beaten path”.
The summer schedule for this day trip (1st July – 14th September) does not include the coastal village of Cadaques, which is included in the winter tour schedule. Instead, the summer schedule takes you to Gala Dali’s Castle in Pubol. I was on the summer schedule day trip.
Near the border with France and about 136 kilometres north of Barcelona, Figueres is famous for being the birthplace of the artist Salvador Dali, an artist I have been a fan of for many decades. It is also home to his world-famous Theatre and Museum.
The Dali Theatre-Museum is a museum dedicated solely to the Spanish artist Salvador Dali, a genius of Surrealism. Built by Dali, it is considered the world’s largest surrealist object and is crowded with his artworks – paintings, sculptures, photographs, and jewellery.
Built by Salvador Dali – the Dali Theatre-Museum in Figueres.
Salvador Dali’s painting “Soft Self-Portrait with Grilled Bacon” 1941.
Dali is buried in a crypt beneath the dome of his Theatre-Museum.
The tour as I experienced it:
On arrival in Figueres, we headed to the world-famous Dali Theatre-Museum for a half-hour guided tour with our Explore Catalunya guide. Following the guided tour, we had one and a half hours of free time to explore the three floors of the Theatre-Museum for ourselves.
After leaving Figueres at 12.45 pm, we drove a short half-hour to the pretty, seaside medieval village of Sant Marti d’Empuries on the Costa Brava. Here, we were given two hours of free time for lunch, to explore, or to take a dip in the Mediterranean Sea.
I had a delicious salad at L’Escalapi Restaurant and Pizzeria – a Goat’s Cheese Salad with lettuce, tomatoes, goat’s cheese, walnuts, pine nuts, sultanas, and mustard and honey dressing. Spain does salads so well! I followed up my salad with Sugar and Lemon Crepes. The total cost for lunch was €20 (AU$33).
I walked off lunch by wandering around Sant Marti d’Empuries, admiring its medieval buildings and checking out the beach – a lovely spot to stay a while.
Sant Marti d’Empuries – the village
Sant Marti d’Empuries – the beach
Our last stop for the day was Gala Dali’s Castle in the tiny village of Pubol. The castle is the house Salvador Dali bought for his wife. Salvador didn’t live here until after Gala’s death and had to be invited by Gala to visit.
We were given a half-hour guided tour inside the castle and half an hour of free time to explore its gardens. According to our guide, Gala wanted to design the interior herself, but there is substantial Salvador Dali influence (artworks) inside the castle and its grounds. I particularly loved the Dali sculptures of long-legged elephants in the gardens.
There’s an elephant in the garden!
Gala is buried in the crypt designed by her husband in the castle’s basement.
Leaving Pubol at 5.00 pm, we arrived in Barcelona at 6.45 pm.
My tour review / final thoughts:
I have been a fan of Salvador Dali for many decades, and visiting his Theatre Museum was on my bucket list as soon as I started planning my trip to Spain. And I wasn’t disappointed! As I viewed his works over three floors, I got a glimpse into his unique world and learned so much about the evolution of his artistic styles.
Salvador Dali – the master of Surrealism
Dali decorated his Theatre-Museum in his unique style
Dali’s “Mae West Lips Sofa” 1937-1937
Dali’s Lithograph “Eternal Circumcism” 1968
My only criticism of the two hours allocated in the Dali Theatre-Museum is that it wasn’t long enough. Viewing artworks should be a relaxed experience, but I felt rushed as I wanted to take in as much as possible. It also didn’t give me time to view the jewellery Dali designed for his wife or to visit the museum shop, where I had hoped to buy a book on Salvador Dali.
Here’s some trivia: Dali designed the Spanish lollipop Chupa Chups logo. I never knew Chupa Chups were Spanish! Perhaps I need to attend more trivia nights because the question of who created the Chupa Chups logo is, apparently, frequently asked.
Explore Catalunya must ensure the full tour description reflects the actual tour itinerary. Their detailed summer schedule full tour description maintains that Platge de Castell would be our last stop after Gala Dali’s Castle before returning to Barcelona. However, we never visited Platge de Castell, “one of those rare hidden corners you can still find on the Costa Brava”. Instead, we visited Sant Marti d’Empuries on the Mediterranean coast before heading to Gala’s Castle. I can’t say I was disappointed as I knew nothing about Platge de Castell, and Sant Marti d’Empuries was an enchanting village that I thoroughly enjoyed exploring.
I booked this tour because I wanted to see as much as possible about Salvador Dali that was available at the time. As such, I was pleased Explore Catalunya included Gala Dali’s Castle in the tour. I must admit, I found Gala’s home uninteresting but did enjoy wandering through the castle’s grounds. The hour at Gala Dali’s Castle was more than sufficient time to see everything there was.
Explore Catalunya promotes this small group trip as being transported “to one of the most breathtakingly beautiful stretches of coastline in the whole of Europe – the Costa Brava”.
The Costa Brava is a coastal region of Catalonia on the Mediterranean Sea in northeastern Spain. It stretches from Blanes, a city 60 kilometres northeast of Barcelona, to the French border.
The tour as I experienced it:
About an hour’s drive from Barcelona, we arrived in Blanes – the gateway to Costa Brava. We didn’t stop in Blanes (a city of nearly 50,000 people) but drove straight to Cala Sant Francesc – a picturesque small cove with yellow sand and turquoise waters.
Alighting from the bus on the hill above Cala Sant Francesc, our guide gave us the option to spend our two hours’ free time at the beach or walking around the nearby Marimurtra Botanical Garden. I chose the Botanical Garden, described as one of the most beautiful gardens on the Mediterranean.
Marimurtra Botanical Garden
Marimurtra Botanical Garden is situated on the top of a cliff, providing stunning views of the picturesque Costa Brava with its white sand coves, crystal clear turquoise and aqua waters, and rugged coastline.
Costa Brava viewed from Marimurtra Botanical Garden.
Costa Brava’s coastline.
Leaving Cala Sant Francesc at 12.30 pm, we headed for lunch at a family-owned typical Mediterranean restaurant outside of Blanes. Our set menu consisted of a selection of traditional local dishes for starters with a glass of Sangria, a choice of several main courses, and a choice of Mel i Moto (a traditional Catalan dessert) or ice cream.
After a leisurely lunch, we drove for about half an hour to Tossa de Mar – a resort town home to the last preserved fortified town on the Costa Brava coast. Upon arrival, our guide took us on an orientation walk through the town and then given over an hour of free time.
I didn’t go for a swim in the waters of the very crowded beach or seek a coffee in the many cafes and restaurants packed with people. I opted instead to walk up the hill to the lighthouse and fortifications on the town’s highest point.
From the lighthouse and fortifications, I could see over the town, the many boats moored in Tossa de Mar’s bay, and a panoramic view of the Mediterranean Sea with its blue waters and rugged coastline.
Tossa de Mar – town, beach and fortifications
Tossa de Mar was our last stop for the day. An hour and a half drive saw us back in Barcelona.
My tour review / final thoughts:
According to Explore Catalunya, the picturesque Cala Sant Francesc is “one of the few remaining coves on the coast that have avoided the crowds of tourists and big commercial developments and are known only to locals”. All I can say is there must be a lot of locals because the cove’s beach was crowded. Explore Catalunya goes on to say we would have the beach to ourselves. I think they need to rewrite their tour description!
“Uncrowded” Cala Sant Francesc
I enjoyed wandering around the Marimurtra Botanical Garden and admiring its more than four thousand plant species. However, my highlight of the day trip was the hilltop Garden’s coastal views. The Garden provides the most spectacular views of Costa Brava’s beautiful small coves, crystal clear waters, and the rugged coastline of the Mediterranean Sea.
The Mediterranean Sea framed by Marimurtra Botanical Garden
Explore Catalunya’s detailed description for The Costa Brava tour states: “After leaving the beach and gardens, we will continue up to the old castle ruins for another amazing view of the coast.” Unfortunately, this did not occur, leaving me disappointed, as I would have loved to see more of Costa Brava’s coastline.
Lunch was delicious. I had a great salad with lettuce, brie cheese, walnuts, and fruits for my mains. Since I am not fond of ice cream, I had the Mel i Moto – a traditional Catalan dessert of Catalan cheese with honey. It was an interesting dessert but not unpleasant, and I could have had another bowl with more honey. Since arriving home, I have tried making this dessert with ricotta cheese, but it doesn’t taste the same (not as good).
My impression of Tossa de Mar is that of a very crowded tourist town, one I would typically avoid. However, I did enjoy the views from the lighthouse and fortifications of Costa Brava’s dramatic coastline.
Costa Brava’s rugged coastline at Tessa de Mar
Overall, the day trip to Costa Brava was long but enjoyable, and I recommend it.
Explore Catalunya promotes this day trip as a journey back to the medieval age, visiting the beautifully preserved villages of Besalu and Tavertet and enjoying free time in Rupit village.
The tour as I experienced it:
Leaving Barcelona at 8.30 am, we arrived in Besalu, our first medieval village, at about 10.00 am. Upon arrival, we (there were five guests on the tour) were given 20 minutes for a coffee and a bite to eat. We then headed across Besalu’s most significant feature – its 12th-century Romanesque bridge over the Fluvia River with its seven arches and a fortified gateway at its midpoint. Having crossed the bridge, we immediately entered Besalu’s medieval old town, where our Explore Catalunya driver-guide provided a 20-minute guided familiarisation walking tour around the Old Town.
The medieval town of Besalu and its Romanesque bridge.
After the guided walking tour, we had one hour to explore Besalu independently.
Founded in 878 AD, Besalu is an enchanting medieval town in the foothills of the southeastern section of the Pyrenees. It is one of Spain’s most beautiful and best-preserved medieval towns and was declared a historic and artistic site of national importance in 1966.
Today, Besalu has a population of 2,512 (2023) living there permanently.
Besalu is home to an 11th-century church and hospital, a 12th-century monastery, the remains of a medieval castle, and an ancient Jewish Quarter, where you will find the ruins of a medieval synagogue and a 12th-century Mikvka (Jewish ritual bathhouse).
Besalu’s old town is built entirely from sandstone, giving the village a golden, warm hue. Cafes fill the pretty squares, and narrow cobblestone streets wind through the village. As to be expected, souvenir shops line the streets. However, glancing into shops as I walked past them made me think they were of a better quality than most you see.
A narrow cobblestone street leads to a small square
10th-century Iglesia Sant Vicenc – the oldest church in Besalu
Besalu’s main square, Placa de la Llibertat, is in the centre of the old town and a great place to sit with a drink or ice cream and people-watch.
Cafes and restaurants line Besalu’s main square
I found the wooden chairs attached to the Old Town’s stone walls a thought-provoking addition to Besalu’s medieval architecture. However, I never got an answer about the reason for this art installation.
After about an hour’s drive from Besalu and up narrow, winding roads into the Pyrenees, we arrived at the medieval village of Rupit. A river, forest, waterfalls, and caves surround the village, which is 822 metres above sea level in a valley adjacent to the Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park.
Rupit was in stark contrast to Besalu. Instead of the pale stone buildings that give Besalu an air of warmth, all the houses in Rupit are built with basalt stone, giving the village a dark, forbidding appearance.
The medieval village of Rupert, with houses built in basalt
Rupit is smaller than Besalu, with about 160 permanent residents and just two main streets. The United Nations World Tourism Organisation (UNWTO) has described it as “one of the jewels of Catalonia in Spain.”
Rupit has received two awards in recent years:
UNWTO named it ‘Best Tourism Villages 2022’ for its “development of sustainable and responsible tourism.”
It has been awarded ‘European Charming Villages’ by the COSME Initiative of the European Union.
Before arriving in Rupit, our driver-guide gave us the option of free time to explore the village or to join him at a local restaurant for a set menu Catalonian lunch. I opted for lunch with three other guests and our driver-guide – a big mistake! Don’t get me wrong, the three-course lunch was delicious and a leisurely affair, but it took all our allocated two hours of free time in Rupit.
Two hours for lunch in Spain is the norm, but we had no time to explore the village. After several guests voiced their disappointment, our driver-guide gave us ten minutes to explore Rupit.
A street in Rupit
Rupit, where many streets are stairs
Our final stop before heading back to Barcelona was at a clifftop lookout in the tiny village of Tavertet, overlooking the valley below and the Guilleries mountain range. From this viewpoint, we could see the large Sau Reservoir, villages, and the odd lone house in the valley below.
View of the valley and mountain range from Tavertet lookout
My tour review / final thoughts:
Besalu:
Grabbing a takeaway coffee instead of sitting down for 20 minutes would have been a better option, allowing more time for the guided walk around Besalu.
I would have liked more time to explore Besalu at a relaxed pace rather than rushing from street to street to see as much as possible and take as many photos as possible.
According to the detailed description on Explore Catalunya’s website, the Medieval Villages tour includes “visit a restored mikveh (an old Jewish bath from the 12th century), and see the remains of a medieval synagogue”. Neither of these happened.
We were discouraged from seeing the old Jewish bath with an explanation that to do so was too hard. We would have to walk back over the bridge (at this point, we were inside the walled town) to the tourist office, get the key for the bath, and then take the key back to the tourist office once having seen the bath. There was also an admission fee involved.
I got the distinct impression that our guide just couldn’t be bothered taking us to visit the restored mikvah and ruins of the medieval synagogue. I found this extremely disappointing as I have a strong interest in Jewish history.
Castellfollit de la Roca:
On the drive to Rupit, our driver-guide pointed to Castellfollit de la Roca village, perched on the edge of a basalt precipice. I have seen several photos of Castellfollit de la Roca on Instagram and have always been in awe of its precarious location. I was okay with not exploring the village but felt incredibly disappointed that we drove straight past and didn’t pull off the road for a photo stop.
Rupit:
Opting to have lunch in a restaurant in Rupit was a missed opportunity to explore the village. It was a shame that our driver-guide failed to advise us that lunch in the restaurant would take up all our free time in Rupit. Had he done so, I would have grabbed something to eat at the bakery and used the two hours to explore the village and walk along the river to discover its pools and waterfalls.
Tavertet:
Explore Catalunya’s detailed description for this tour states that a visit is made to Tavertet village. “With your guide, visit this charming village, which was declared a National Property of Cultural Interest due to its 48 preserved houses from the 17th and 18th centuries. Learn interesting facts about this village as you admire the houses and the 11th-century Romanesque Church of Sant Cristofol.” However, we did not visit Tavertet; we merely drove straight through to the viewpoint on the cliff edge of the village for a panoramic view of the valley below. It was a shame we did not go into Tavertet, as I was looking forward to seeing the houses.
Explore Catalunya advertises that The Small Group Medieval Villages Day Trip from Barcelona lasts 11 hours. However, on this day, it was only ten hours. The additional hour would have allowed the advertised visit to Tavertet village or more time in Besalu.
Final thoughts:
Besalu is a delightful village worth visiting. However, I would have found a full day in Besalu to explore all its nooks and crannies of more value.
Ten minutes to explore Rupit and a short walk along one street to the restaurant was not enough time to make an informed comment on Rupit. However, what I did see had me wanting more.
I cannot comment on Tavertet, as we only drove quickly through the village to the lookout.
I enjoyed the Medieval Villages Day Trip, but I suspect the enjoyment was more about getting out of Barcelona for the day than the trip itself. In truth, I ended the day feeling disappointed and cheated.
Explore Catalunya promotes this day trip as “The only day tour from Barcelona that takes groups into the Pyrenees Mountains”.
There were five guests on this day trip (including myself) and our driver-guide, Steven. The tour’s destination was Vall de Nuria (Nuria’s Valley) in the Pyrenees via Vic and Queralbs.
The tour as I experienced it:
Our departure from Barcelona at 8.30 am had us arriving in Vic (pronounced Bic) about an hour later.
Vic is about 69 kilometres north of Barcelona on the Meder River. It is an ancient city, dating back to the Ausetan Iberians before Roman occupation in the 1st century AD, with an interesting and picturesque medieval Old Town.
On a 20-minute guided walking tour around the Old Town, we passed through several small pretty squares with cafes preparing for the day.
A bicycle adds a touch of romance to a courtyard cafe.
A pretty square makes an ideal spot for a cafe.
The guided walking tour ended in Cathedral Square at the Roman Catholic cathedral, Catedral de Sant Pere Apostol (Cathedral of Saint Peter the Apostle).
I found the interior of Vic’s Sant Pere Cathedral to be unlike anything I had seen previously. Huge, almost monochromatic canvases painted by Joseph Maria Sert representing the mystery of redemption cover the walls, making the interior dark and gloomy – an unexpected contrast to the cathedral’s light-coloured stone exterior. It wasn’t a place I wanted to linger! However, your reaction may be very different.
Vic’s Sant Pere Cathedral
Joseph Maria Sert painting inside Sant Pere Cathedral
Explore Catalunya’s visits to Vic coincide with traditional market days, which take place on Tuesdays and Saturdays in the arched main square (one of the biggest in Spain). Stalls of every sort filled the square.
Our half-hour of free time had me scouring the market stalls and nearby shops for something suitable for a takeaway lunch. Steven advised us that the food at Vall de Nuria’s café was not the best and recommended that we buy lunch in Vic.
From Vic, we drove up into the Pyrenees to the small village of Queralbs, which sits at an altitude of 1,236 metres. It is the last vehicle-accessible village on the way up to Vall de Nuria (Nuria’s Valley), a beautiful valley in the eastern Pyrenees. The final six kilometres from Queralbs to Vall de Nuria must be travelled by rack railway – a 20-minute journey to an altitude of 1,964 metres. But first, there was a guided walking tour through Queralbs.
Queralbs is an ancient village dating back to 833 AD. With its traditionally built stone houses perched on the side of the mountain, “this impossibly quaint, picture postcard beautiful hamlet is one of the most memorable parts of the day” (Explore Catalunya). I couldn’t agree more! The village was picture-perfect.
The village of Queralbs in the Pyrenees.
The traditional stone houses of Queralbs.
The walking tour ended at the Romanesque Esglesia de Sant Jaume (Church of Saint James) – one of Spain’s oldest surviving Romanesque churches.
Queralbs’ Romanesque St James Church.
Time to catch the rack railway train to Vall de Nuria!
Vall de Nuria is a glacial valley in the eastern Pyrenees, 120 kilometres from Barcelona, 1,964 metres above sea level, and surrounded by mountains nearly 3,000 metres high. It is remote and only accessible by rack railway. The ski resort and Nuria Lake dominate the valley, offering spectacular mountain landscapes, winter skiing, and summer hiking trails.
Vall de Nuria viewed from the top of the cable car run.
Vall de Nuria landscape with a view of the lake and resort.
With two hours to explore the valley before catching the train back down the mountain, I decided to hike one of the many trails in the hills around the valley. These trails range from easy to challenging.
Given my limited time, I chose an easy trail, the Way of the Crosses. I was told it would take 50 minutes to walk, but I knew it would take longer as I would keep stopping to take photos and admire the breathtaking views. The trail gets its name from the Christian Way of the Cross tradition, with twelve crosses along the way. I made the hike easier on myself by walking down the mountain rather than up. I did this by taking the cable car to the summit, bringing me to an altitude of 2,170 metres. Consequently, I passed the crosses in reverse – from twelve to one.
Way of the Crosses – Station 6.
Way of the Crosses – Station 5.
We missed our scheduled train back down the mountain to Queralbs because one couple failed to turn up at the meeting point even though Steven’s instructions were clear. No one knew where they were. I could tell Steven was worried, but he handled it calmly. Eventually, Steven decided we would catch the next train and leave the unreliable couple to fend for themselves. Surprise, surprise! When we arrived back at Queralbs Rack Railway Station (45 minutes late), our errant couple were waiting for us. They had decided to forego the meeting point and catch the train on their own.
From about halfway down the Stations of the Cross trail, the sky was getting blacker and blacker. By the time I reached the bottom, thunder was rolling around the mountains.
Vall de Nuria – a storm rolls inover the Pyrenees
Just as we were about to board our train back down the mountain, the heavens opened, and heavy rain and hail bucketed down. As we travelled the six kilometres from Vall de Nuria to Queralbs, the rain got heavier and heavier. Running from the train to the station building had us soaked to the skin, and I mean soaked. Water was pouring off me, off my hair and my clothes.
Our misfortunes did not end with a missing couple and soaking rain. Shortly after leaving Queralbs for our drive down the mountain, we came to a grinding halt. Traffic wasn’t going anywhere! The river beside the road was a raging torrent, so I thought maybe the road was flooded. After about 20-30 minutes, the male of our errant couple went to investigate what was happening up ahead – to make up for their “misunderstanding” about the meeting point. He told us there was a mudslide with rocks over the road and water pouring down the mountain. People were staring at this catastrophe, immobile. But our errant male (sorry, I will always think of him as such) started moving the rocks, and others helped. We were moving again! Meanwhile, it was sunny and 30 degrees Celsius in Barcelona!
My tour review / final thoughts:
In Vic, I struggled, wasting a lot of time trying to find suitable food for a takeaway lunch. I couldn’t even find a small supermarket in the streets around the main square. I found a bakery that looked promising, but the queue was too long to wait for service. I was conscious about arriving back at the meeting place on time. Had I known in advance about the recommendation to purchase a takeaway lunch, I would have brought food with me. In hindsight, I am sorry I didn’t risk the cafe at Vall de Nuria because the lentil salad I bought in Vic for lunch was pretty ordinary.
Explore Catalunya advertises the tour as 11 hours in duration. However, the tour was 11 hours only because we were late leaving Vall de Nuria back to Queralbs and encountered a mudslide driving down the mountain. I felt cheated because I would have loved more time on the mountain. The additional hour would have allowed me time to walk around the lake, visit the sanctuary, or have a cup of coffee.
I thoroughly enjoyed this day trip to the Pyrenees Mountains. What an adventure!
Don’t get me wrong; I have enjoyed all my day trips with Explore Catalunya, but this one seemed a bit more special. Perhaps it was the breathtaking landscape of the Pyrenees or just being in the mountains? Perhaps it was the enchanting village of Queralbs or the experience of the Rack Railway? Perhaps it was the adventure of getting soaking wet from a massive storm or driving through a mudslide over the road? Even though all the tours were very different and memorable, this day trip to the Pyrenees was special. It was not your ‘usual’ sightseeing tour and, for the most part, was the more relaxed.
A word on booking tours with Explore Catalunya:
I booked all my tours with Explore Catalunya in person, visiting their office in Barcelona at Carrer Palau de la Musica, 1. When booking in person, I received a €10,00 senior discount on each tour. However, when visiting Explore Catalunya’s website, I found nowhere that a senior discount can be applied when booking a tour.
As we conclude our journey through these five memorable day trips from Barcelona, I hope the experiences I shared have inspired you to venture beyond the city’s boundaries and explore the wonders just a short distance away.
Barcelona is a gateway to extraordinary adventures, allowing you to immerse yourself in captivating landscapes, delve into rich history, and be inspired by world-renowned art. The day trips I took from Barcelona left me with a lifetime of memories.
So, if you find yourself in Barcelona, let these day trips be your guide to exploring the richness that lies beyond the city’s borders, for Catalonia is a region of endless discovery. Allow yourself to be swept away by the allure of Montserrat, the coastal beauty of Costa Brava, the timeless appeal of medieval villages, the majesty of the Pyrenees, and the surreal world of Salvador Dali.
Thank you for joining me on this unforgettable journey through Catalonia’s diverse landscapes and cultural treasures. Until next time, here’s to the endless horizons of discovery and the timeless magic of travel!
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
Have you found this review of day trip tours from Barcelona a helpful resource? Which would be a day trip not to be missed? I love hearing from you. Please leave a comment below.
I look forward to reading and responding to your comments on which day trips from Barcelona you might include on your next holiday to Spain that this post has inspired.
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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
Postcards From Spain: Your Ultimate Iberian Bucket List for Creating Unforgettable Memories in Spain. Are you travelling to Spain? Are you looking for things to do, places to visit,…
Postcards From Spain: Your Ultimate Iberian Bucket List for Creating Unforgettable Memories in Spain.
Are you travelling to Spain? Are you looking for things to do, places to visit, sites to see in Spain? This post covers an extensive list of top places of interest and things to do in Spain to ensure your Spain bucket list is complete.
The post is not an exhaustive list of the incredible things you should not miss while in Spain. For example, the theatre, amphitheatre, and bridge are not the only Roman sites Merida has to interest the visitor. And there is a fabulous archaeological museum worth visiting.
I have presented my Spain bucket list as postcards (often multiple postcards per destination), with each postcard an authentic personal experience. From historic landmarks and hidden gems to cultural marvels and breathtaking landscapes, my Spain Bucket List of 47 Incredible Things You Should Not Miss is designed to be your go-to resource for planning the journey of a lifetime.
About My Spain Bucket List
I have compiled my Spain bucket list from my personal experiences of spending almost three consecutive months in Spain.
Before arriving in Spain, I spent one week in France on a barge cruise travelling on the Canal du Midi.
My first 18 days in Spain were on the Spanish Heritage Tour with Insight Vacations. This tour almost internally circumnavigated Spain, helping me to familiarise myself with the country, the people, and the culture.
For the remainder of my time in Spain, I travelled solo, basing myself in Seville (three weeks), Merida (one week), Barcelona (four weeks), and Girona (one week). North, south, east, and west, I covered much of Spain in almost three months while allowing time and space to immerse myself.
When I travel, I send digital postcards of the highlights of my travel experiences to family and friends, sharing what I have seen and done. Each entry in this post includes those postcard-worthy moments that vividly capture the essence of each unmissable experience.
Spain has many UNESCO World Heritage Sites, 49 to be precise. It wasn’t until I wrote this post that I realised how many of those sites I visited.
How This Post is Structured
Welcome to Spain, a land of rich history, diverse cultures, and stunning landscapes. Planning a trip to this captivating country can be overwhelming, given its wealth of experiences. Fear not, for I present you with the ultimate trip-planning resource – a comprehensive list of 47 unmissable things to see and do in Spain.
The links immediately below take you to many cities, towns, and villages (in alphabetical order) I visited in Spain. I have then made suggestions, based on my personal experience, of things to see and do within those cities, towns, and villages.
Join me as we travel through my Spain Bucket List postcard series.
My Spain Bucket List isn’t just a checklist but an invitation to plan what to do and see during your visit to Spain to make the best of your trip. So, join me as I unveil the 47 incredible things that make Spain a destination like no other. Let’s go!
BARCELONA
Barcelona is on the Mediterranean coast in the northeast of Spain and is the capital of Spain’s Catalonia region. It is known for its art and legendary architecture.
Basilica i Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Familia
Otherwise known as Sagrada Familia.
Barcelona and the Sagrada Familia are synonymous – you can’t have one without the other. It is the most-visited monument in Spain and is the only temple in the world still under construction. The Sagrada Familia has been under construction since 1882 and is estimated to be completed in 2026. However, according to my guide, this completion date is not likely to be met because of COVID-19. The building of Sagrada Familia relies heavily on tourist dollars, and none came in while the basilica was closed during the pandemic.
While I failed to see the beauty in the basilica’s exterior, Antoni Gaudi, the Sagrada Familia’s famous architect, has excelled himself with its breathtakingly beautiful interior. See my photo gallery.
The stunned-glass windows create a magical light show inside the basilica.
The Sagrada Familia interior.
The beautiful ceiling inside Sagrada Familia.
Christ on the cross hangs suspended from an umbrella over the main altar.
A note on Antoni Gaudi (because his architecture appears multiple times on this bucket list): Antoni Gaudi is Barcelona’s most famous architect and led the way for the Modernista movement, which is best known for its architectural style. UNESCO recognised Gaudi’s exceptional creativity and contribution to architecture development by placing seven properties he built on the World Heritage List in 1984. UNESCO has collectively listed these seven properties as the “Works of Gaudi”.
In 2003, Gaudi was on the path to sainthood when the Vatican opened the beautification process for him, the first step towards declaring his sainthood. It is now 2023, and Gaudi still needs to become a saint. The Catholic Church does not rush the beautification process. And there is a question mark over what miracle Gaudi caused!
Casa Batllo
The beautiful facade of Casa Batllo.
The building, now known as Casa Batllo, was constructed in 1877. When Joseph Batllo purchased it in 1903, he gave Antoni Gaudi total creative freedom to complete the entire remodelling of the house, which was completed in 1906.
The interior of this UNESCO World Heritage Site is a vision of wrought iron, wood, stained glass, ceramic tiles, and stone ornaments. The building is energy efficient with extensive use of natural light. Casa Batllo’s exterior was given a unique façade by Gaudi, where stone, glass, and ceramics form waves that mirror a calm sea, and the balconies are shell-shaped.
Located at number 43 on Passeig de Gracia, allow at least 1.5 hours to explore the house.
Casa Mila
Located at number 92 on Passeig de Gracia, Casa Mila was an apartment block completed in 1912, and Antoni Gaudi was the architect. It is popularly known as La Pedrera, meaning “stone quarry” in Catalan, because stone was the primary building material for the façade and balconies. A visit to Casa Mila includes (at additional cost) the apartment where the Mila family lived, still intact with antique furniture. The rooftop provides excellent views over Barcelona.
Casa Mila has two intriguing features:
There is barely a straight wall in the building, and
The rooftop is a sculpture park of chimneys that looks like something out of Star Wars. The Spanish poet Pere Gimferrer called it The Garden of Warriors.
“Warriors” march across Casa Mila’s rooftop.
Ciutadella Park
Go people-watching in Ciutadella Park, Barcelona’s largest landscaped park on Passeig de Picasso.
There is much to see and do in Ciutadella Park.
Ciutadella Park is the place to see and be seen, particularly on Sunday afternoons when people gather to play instruments, relax, take a punt on the boating lake, view the extravagant Cascada Monumental, a cascading waterfall fountain topped by a chariot-rider flanked by gryphons which Gaudi helped design, admire the sculptures scattered around the park, or visit the zoo.
Palau de la Musica Catalana
Palau de la Musica Catalana (Palace of Catalan Music) is a concert hall in the Sant Pere district of Barcelona, built between 1905 and 1908. The modernist architect Lluis Domenech i Montaner constructed Musica Catalana as a home for the Catalan Choral Society.
I went to see the Palau de la Musica Catalana because it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (1997), and I had seen some photos and thought, That’s pretty. “That’s pretty” was an understatement! I was in awe; it was breathtaking! Could there be anything this beautiful? The stained-glass skylight and windows flood the Concert Hall with natural light, the majestic organ has 3,700 pipes, and the 18 muses surrounding the stage, with 18 instruments from different parts of the world, represent music without frontiers.
Palau de la Musica Catalana’s main auditorium seats 1,970, with a further capacity of 600 seats in the Petit Palau (chamber music hall). Discover the secrets of this hidden gem with an in-house guided tour, which includes hearing a short piece played on the organ. Magical!
Check out my photos to see why you should visit this unique Concert Hall.
The interior of Palau de la Musica Catalina.
The iconic stained-glass skylight.
Sculpted muses with musical instruments form a backdrop for the stage.
The stained-glass windows and breathtakingly beautiful ceiling.
The architect was Antoni Gaudi’s teacher. I can see the influence on Gaudi.
There is a good café (Palau Café) in the Palau de la Musica Catalana foyer where you can eat inside or under the umbrellas outside.
Palau Guell (Guell Palace)
Palau Guell is a luxury mansion on Carrer Nou de la Rambla in the El Raval district of Barcelona. The famous architect Antoni Gaudi designed the palace’s seven floors for the industrial tycoon and Gaudi’s patron, Eusebi Guell, which he completed in 1890. All the palace rooms open onto the spectacular central hall, like an internal courtyard.
The building’s exterior is rather unremarkable, so the interior was a complete surprise. It was spectacular and certainly worth a visit! See for yourself.
Palau Guell was Gaudi’s first actual commission in Barcelona and has been on UNESCO’s World Heritage List since 1984.
The lobby Palau Guell.
The luxurious central hall.
The lobby’s beautiful staircase with its stained-glass window (also designed by Gaudi) leads up to the luxurious central hall that also serves as a source of light for the rooms leading off it over several floors. Gaudi liked to incorporate wood in his designs, and the wooden ceilings in Palau Guell are works of art.
Gaudi installed his signature chimneys on the roof in 1895. There are 20 chimneys in all, which also ventilate the house.
Antoni Gaudi’s signature chimneys on the roof of Palau Guell.
The audio guide was descriptive, informative, and easy to follow.
UNESCO placed Palau Guell on the World Heritage List in 1984. A definite must-see!
Park Guell
A guided tour of Park Guell, designed by the famous Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi, was an optional excursion in Barcelona offered by Insight Vacations on my recent tour with them – and one I couldn’t miss.
Visiting Park Guell was on my bucket list in Barcelona, and it didn’t disappoint. Gaudi’s distinctive, imaginative, and nonconforming architectural style fascinates me and appeals to my photographic eye. Gaudi decorated most of his structures with mosaics made from broken, colourful ceramic and glass pieces.
The 200-metre undulating tiles snake-like bench circles the terrace.
The former guard’s residence (left) and sales office (right) at Park Guell’s Olot Street entrance.
The whimsical multicoloured 2.4-metre-long dragon or salamander has become the symbol of Barcelona.
I didn’t know about Park Guell’s original intention as a luxury residential complex (gated community), but this plan was abandoned in 1914 as it was financially unsuccessful. It was opened to the public as a municipal park in 1926.
At more than 17 hectares, the park is one of the largest green spaces in Barcelona.
The Spanish Government declared Park Guell a Monument of Cultural Interest in 1969 in recognition of its historical, architectural, and artistic uniqueness. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984 and a Catalan National Cultural Interest site in 1993.
I finally learned how to pronounce ‘Guell’ – ‘Gway’, with the ‘G’ pronounced like the ‘g’ in ‘girl’.
Fun Facts:
Gaudi had a workman drop his pants and sit in the soft plaster for a perfect anatomical curve to ensure the stone bench was comfortable.
The former guard’s residence and sales office have been dubbed the Hansel and Gretel gingerbread houses by the children of Barcelona.
BESALU – Medieval Town on the Fluvia River
Founded in 878 AD, Besalu is an enchanting medieval town in the southeastern section of the Pyrenees. It is one of Spain’s best-preserved medieval towns and was declared a historic and artistic site of national importance in 1966.
Besalu is home to an 11th-century church and hospital, a 12th-century monastery, the remains of a medieval castle, and an ancient Jewish Quarter, where you will find the ruins of a medieval synagogue and a 12th-century Mikvka (Jewish ritual bathhouse). However, its most significant feature is its 12th-century Romanesque bridge over the Fluvia River with a gateway at its midpoint.
The medieval town of Besalu and its Romanesque bridge.
Keep an eye out for sculptures of chairs scattered around the old town.
BILBAO – The Many Faces of the Guggenheim Museum
Bilbao is an industrial port city in northern Spain and the biggest city in Basque Country. The opening of the Guggenheim Museum in 1997 saw the revitalisation of Bilbao as it transformed from a nondescript town to one of Spain’s bucket list destinations.
Front facade.
Side facade.
The spider sculpture in front of the Guggenheim Museum.
The Guggenheim Bilbao is a modern and contemporary art museum in Northern Spain’s Basque Country. But before the art, it is, first and foremost, the most fantastic piece of architecture. Wow-factor architecture! Do you agree?
The best views of the Guggenheim are from Salve Bridge, from where I took the above photos. The Salve Bridge is informally known as the Guggenheim Bridge because it merges into the Guggenheim Museum. I particularly liked the spider sculpture in front of the museum.
Take the funicular to the top of Mount Artxanda for great views of Bilbao and the Guggenheim Museum.
CANGAS DE ONIS – Roman Bridge of Cangas de Onis
Cangas de Onis is a picturesque town in Spain’s northwest province of Asturias.
The five-arched Roman Bridge of Cangas de Onis spanning the Sella River is not Roman. In fact, it is medieval, possibly dating from the late 13th century.
Roman Bridge of Cangas de Onis.
Roman or medieval, it still makes for an interesting bridge in a picturesque landscape. It is a graceful humpback bridge with a large, pointed central arch and is one of the best-known symbols of the Principality of Asturias.
From the centre of the arch hangs a reproduction of the famous Victory Cross – the symbol of the re-conquest of Spain from the Moors. The original Victory Cross is a work of precious metal dating to the start of the 10th century. You will find the Cross in Oviedo Cathedral.
CORDOBA
About 130 kilometres northeast of Seville, Cordoba was an important Roman city and a major Islamic centre in the Middle Ages. In Cordoba, three different cultures peacefully coexisted: Jews, Muslims, and Christians.
Roman Bridge of Cordoba
Cordoba’s Roman Bridge.
The stunning Roman Bridge of Cordoba was built across the Guadalquivir River in the first century BC. It has 16 arches supported by robust spurs with semi-cylindrical buttresses and is 247 metres long. It has undergone several reconstructions over the centuries, and today, only the 14th and 15th arches at the northern end are originally Roman. However, it remains a beautiful historical bridge. Since 2004, it has been a pedestrian-only bridge.
For those familiar with the TV series “Game of Thrones”, the Roman Bridge of Cordoba doubled as the Long Bridge of Volantis spanning the Rhoyne River in Season 5.
The Roman Bridge is part of the historic centre of Cordoba, which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984.
Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba (Mezquita-Catedral of Cordoba)
It is also known as the Great Mosque of Cordoba.
Walking into the mosque stopped me dead in my tracks. It was one of those “Oh my goodness” moments. The main hall is a forest of pillars supporting over 850 double-arched columns – a spectacular sight that is breathtakingly beautiful and unforgettable.
Check out my photo gallery of the eclectic interior of Cordoba’s Mosque-Cathedral:
The mosque leads to a chapel.
A cathedral within a mosque.
The Islamic double-arched columns.
A statue of Christ inside the Mosque-Cathedral.
The Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba is steeped in history and is a unique blend of cultures and architectural styles – Islam and Christianity.
Building commenced on the mosque in 785 and took over two centuries to complete. It was once one of the most important mosques in the Islamic Kingdom. When the Great Mosque was converted into a Christian Cathedral in 1236 after the conquest of Cordoba by Ferdinand III, he never demolished the mosque. The cathedral was built in the centre of the mosque.
The Mezquita was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984.
The Mosque-Cathedral is the Cathedral of Cordoba, and Muslim prayer is prohibited. However, historical beginnings linger. My guide told me that Catholic couples say they are marrying in the mosque, not the cathedral.
The Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba is one of the most unique buildings in the world, an absolute must-see when in Spain. It is easy to see why the people of Spain voted the Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba number one in their list of The Twelve Treasures of Spain.
COSTA BRAVA – Catalonia’s Coastline
The Costa Brava is a coastal region of Catalonia in northeastern Spain, stretching from the town of Blanes, 60 kilometres northeast of Barcelona, to the French border.
On a day trip from Barcelona, the picturesque Costa Brava was stunningly beautiful with its white sand coves, turquoise waters, and rugged coastline.
Costa Brava viewed from Marimurtra Botanical Garden.
Costa Brava’s coastline.
I took the above photos of the Costa Brava from the cliff-top Marimurtra Botanical Garden near Blanes.
FIGUERES – Dali Theatre-Museum
Near the border with France and about 136 kilometres north of Barcelona, Figueres is famous for being the birthplace of the artist Salvador Dali.
Built by Salvador Dali – the Dali Theatre-Museum in Figueres.
Salvador Dali’s painting “Soft Self-Portrait with Grilled Bacon” 1941.
The Dali Theatre-Museum in Figueres, Catalana, is a museum solely dedicated to the Spanish artist Salvador Dali – a genius of Surrealism. The museum, built by Dali, is considered the largest surrealist object in the world and is crowded with his artworks – paintings, sculptures, photographs, and jewellery.
I have been a fan of Salvador Dali for many decades, and visiting his theatre-museum was on my bucket list as soon as I started planning my trip to Spain. And I wasn’t disappointed! Over several hours wandering through the theatre-museum, I got a glimpse into his unique world.
Dali is buried in a crypt beneath the dome of his Figueres Theatre-Museum.
Here’s some trivia for you: Dali designed the Spanish lollipop Chupa Chups logo. I never knew Chupa Chups were Spanish! I may need to attend more trivia nights because who created the Chupa Chups logo is, apparently, a frequently asked trivia question.
GIRONA
Girona is a city located between the Pyrenees and Costa Brava – just a short train ride from Barcelona and about 60 kilometres south of the French border. Girona is famous for preserving the medieval old city, located at the confluence of the Ter, Onyar, Galligants, and Guell rivers.
For Game of Thrones fans, you can take a tour of all the filming locations in Girona.
Jewish Girona
Courtyard with the Star of David in the Museum of Jewish History.
Girona has a long history of Jewish habitation, dating back to at least the 9th century AD and is one of the best-preserved Jewish Quarters in Europe. A guided walking tour of Girona’s Jewish Quarter in the old town, known as El Call, takes you on a fabulous history and architectural trip as you make your way through a labyrinth of narrow streets.
The walking tour I joined concluded with a guided tour through the Museum of Jewish History.
Girona’s last remaining synagogue is home to the Museum of Jewish History. The synagogue was in use until 1492 when the Jews were expelled from Spain. The museum aims to preserve and spread the history of the Jewish life that developed in Spain and Girona.
Medieval Girona
A walk along Girona’s three kilometres of medieval walls is a walk along the path of history and provides fantastic panoramic views of Girona and the Old Town.
View of Girona’s Old Town from the medieval wall.
Initially built by the Romans, Girona’s medieval walls were rebuilt and extended in the Middle Ages. The walls surround the historic city centre and are some of the most complete walls in Spain. There are four access points to the walls, but I recommend waking the entire length for the ever-evolving views of this beautiful city. I accessed the wall at Placa Catalunya (Catalonia Square) and walked its length to the Jardins de la Francesa (French Gardens).
Girona’s medieval walls.
Painted Girona
Girona is a city in Spain’s northeastern Catalonia region, at the confluence of the Onyar, Ter, Galligants, and Guell Rivers. It’s known for its medieval architecture, walled Old Quarter, Barri Vell), Jewish Quarter (Call), and the Roman remains of the Forca Vella fortress.
The colourful houses on the banks of the Onyar River are perhaps the most recognised and photographed landmark of Girona.
The coloured houses of Girona reflected in the Onyar River.
In the late 20th century, a small group of artists and architects chose the colour palette for the houses’ facades. The best way to see them is from one of the bridges spanning the Onyar River. I took the photo above from Pont de Sant Agusti, my favourite reflection spot.
Initially built by the Romans, Girona’s medieval walls were rebuilt and extended in the Middle Ages. The walls surround the historic city centre and are some of the most complete walls in Spain. There are four access points to the walls, but I recommend waking the entire length for the ever-evolving views of this beautiful city. I accessed the wall at Placa Catalunya (Catalonia Square) and walked its length to the Jardins de la Francesa (French Gardens).
GRANADA
In the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in southern Spain’s Andalusia region, Granada is a culturally rich city with 800 years of history as a Muslim Kingdom. Granada’s architecture strongly reflects its Muslim heritage.
The Albaicin
Moorish and Andalusian architecture coexist in World Heritage Albaicin.
Walk through Granada’s ancient Arab Quarter that retains its medieval Moorish origins. Get lost in the Albaicin’s maze of narrow cobbled streets and small squares washed in white. Situated on the hill across from the Alhambra, Granada was founded in the Albaicin and was the capital of the Nasrid Kingdom in the 15th century.
The Albaicin was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its eclectic but harmonious mix of Moorish and traditional Andalusian architecture.
The Alhambra
The Alhambra is a massive palace and fortress complex located in Granada. Built by the Nasrid Dynasty – the last Muslims to rule in Spain – and commencing in 1238, the Alhambra is a beautiful testament to Islamic architecture and Moorish culture. The complex includes the Alcazaba, palaces, the Medina, gardens, cemetery, workshops, baths, etc. and is enclosed by a massive, fortified wall with towers.
Myrtle Courtyard in Comares Palace looking towards the Hall of Ambassadors.
Courtyard of the Lions in the sultan’s private dwellings.
Partal Gardens and the Tower of the Ladies.
View of the Alhambra from the Generalise on the Hill of the Sun.
The Alhambra is just one of ten UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Andalusia. However, many believe it to be the most spectacular.
Often referred to as the 8th wonder of the world, the Alhambra was on my must-see list of places to visit in Spain, and I wasn’t disappointed. I had a three-hour guided tour around Alhambra, but you could easily spend all day in the complex.
I crossed this one off my bucket list!
MADRID – Madrid Architecture
Madrid is the capital of Spain and sits almost exactly in the middle of the country. Most famous for the Prado Museum, it was Madrid’s eclectic architectural styles that endeared the city to me.
Cibeles Palace (Madrid’s City Hall)
Madrid has some of the most beautiful architecture in Spain, and Cibeles Palace (the former headquarters for the Spanish Post Office) deserves all the photographic and film attention it gets.
Now Madrid’s City Hall, the post office, I discovered when I had to post a parcel to Australia, can still be found in the building through a side entrance.
The best way to appreciate Madrid’s architecture is to walk the city.
MERIDA
A visit to Merida in Spain’s Extremadura region in southwest Spain is like a trip back to the Roman Empire. Founded in 25 BC (Colony of Augusta Emerita), this UNESCO World Heritage City is one of the best-preserved Roman sites in the world. The Roman theatre, amphitheatre, and bridge are unmissable stops along any tour of the ancient Roman city of Merida, and all within an easy walk of each other.
A Modern Play in an Ancient Setting
Merida’s Roman Theatre.
The Roman Theatre, with a seating capacity of about 5,000 spectators, was built from 16 to 15 BC and is Merida’s most spectacular Roman monument. I liked that, centuries later, it is still being used for its intended purpose.
I saw a musical play in the Roman Theatre on my second night in Merida. The play, which didn’t start until 11 pm because of the heat, was entirely in Spanish. I didn’t understand a word, but seeing the play in that ancient setting was one of those once-in-lifetime experiences and was magical.
A standing ovation for the actors of the play in Merida’s Roman Theatre.
Roman Bridge of Merida
Roman Bridge, Merida
Merida’s Roman Bridge over the Guadiana River was built in the first century BC. At a length of 792 metres and with 60 arches, it is one of the longest bridges in Spain and the longest surviving bridge from ancient times. Carrying road traffic for most of its life, it became a pedestrian-only bridge in 1991.
The Roman Bridge requires two visits – one during the daylight hours and the other at night after sunset. Why? At night, the bridge is lit in multiple colours and is best viewed from the path bordering the Guadiana River.
The Roman bridge lit up at night.
Roman Merida
Roman amphitheatre, Merida.
Opened in 8 BC, Merida’s Roman amphitheatre was the setting for popular gladiatorial contests and beast hunts. It has been determined that the arena could seat between 15,000 and 16,000 spectators from all social standings.
Roman Merida is much more than the amphitheatre, bridge, and theatre. Don’t miss the Temple of Diana, Triumphal Arch, Roman Forum, La Cassa del Mitreon, and the Archeological area of Moreria.
MONTSERRAT MONASTERY – Monastery and Hiking Experience
Montserrat Monastery is an 11th-century Benedictine monastery on Montserrat Mountain (meaning ‘serrated mountain’), 60 kilometres northwest of Barcelona. The monastery hangs onto the side of the mountain 725 metres above sea level.
Montserrat Monastery is perched on the side of the mountain.
I took this photo of Montserrat Monastery across the valley at the Cross of St Michael. This lookout was about one and a half hours into my very steep descent down Montserrat Mountain, and I still had about 20 minutes to go before I arrived back at the monastery.
To start my hike from the top of Montserrat Mountain, I rode the Funicular de Sant Joan from the monastery to the summit, about 300 metres above the monastery. I took the path to the left of the Funicular station that wound around and down the mountain, taking in spectacular views.
View from Montserrat (‘serrated’) Mountain.
While the hike down the mountain was not technically demanding (it’s a paved path nearly all the way), I did find the steep descent challenging. There were times when the decline was so steep my back was almost vertical to the path. The heat was another challenging factor. I’m sure I was on that mountain on its hottest day ever recorded!
A trip to Montserrat Monastery is about more than just a starting point for hiking around the mountain (and there are several you can do). The monastery is famous for the statue of the Black Madonna housed in the basilica and for one of the oldest boys’ choirs in Europe.
The Black Madonna inside Montserrat Basilica.
The setting alone makes Montserrat Monastery worth a visit. The hike added value!
PAMPLONA
Pamplona is best known for its legendary multiday festival, the Running of the Bulls (Feast of San Femin) in July.
A Monument to Culture
Agree with it or not, the annual running of the bulls is an integral part of Pamplona’s culture. The city even has a monument (Monumento al Encierro) dedicated to the traditional bull-running, freezing a moment in time of the race.
Pamplona’s monument to the running of the bulls.
For those who don’t know, the running of the bulls occurs during the festivities of San Fermin, where thousands of people try to outrun stampeding fighting bulls through the streets of Pamplona.
Ernest Hemingway in Pamplona
Statue of Ernest Hemingway in Cafe Irina.
Ernest Hemingway props up the bar in his favourite café in Pamplona – Café Iruna on Plaza del Castillo.
Hemingway had a love affair with Pamplona, visiting the city nine times, each time for the Festival of San Fermin and the running of the bulls.
Hemingway’s first novel, “The Sun Also Rises” (1926), is set in Spain, with Pamplona and Café Iruna heavily featured. The novel portrays American and British expats who travel along the Camino de Santiago from Paris to the Festival of San Fermin in Pamplona and watch the running of the bulls and the bullfights.
PUBOL – Gala Dali Castle
Pubol is a small village where Salvador Dali bought a castle for Gala, his wife. Her castle is now a museum. I recommend taking a guided tour.
There’s an elephant in the garden.
You will find four elephant sculptures by Salvador Dali in Gala Dali’s castle garden. The castle features other artworks by Salvador Dali, and Gala’s crypt is there.
I knew Dali was a painter but was unaware his artistic talents extended to sculpturing.
Interesting fact: Dali needed Gala’s written permission to visit her at the castle.
QUERALBS – Ancient Village in the Pyrenees
Queralbs is a small village in the Pyrenees with a population of about 80. It sits at an elevation of 1,236 metres above sea level. It is the last vehicle-accessible village on the way up to Vall de Nuria (Nuria’s Valley), a beautiful valley in the eastern Pyrenees. The final six kilometres from Queralbes to Vall de Nuria must be travelled by rack railway – a 20-minute journey to an altitude of 1,964 metres. But first, there was a guided walking tour through Queralbs.
Queralbs is an ancient village dating back to 833 AD. With its traditionally built stone houses perched on the side of the mountain, it is a lovely, picture-perfect village.
The village of Queralbs in the Pyrenees.
The traditional stone houses of Queralbs.
The walking tour ended at the Romanesque Church of Sant Jaume (Saint James).
Queralbs’ Romanesque St James Church.
Time to catch the rack railway train to Vall de Nuria!
RONDA – New Bridge
Ronda is a hilltop city in the Andalusian Province of Malaga. It sits dramatically above a deep gorge that separates the city in two. It is the home of modern bullfighting, but that wasn’t why I was there. I was in Ronda to see the New Bridge.
Ronda’s New Bridge spans El Tajo Gorge.
I have seen many photos of Ronda’s New Bridge on Instagram, been amazed, and wanted to see it myself. It was on my bucket list of sites to visit when in Spain.
The New Bridge (Puente Nuevo) spans the 98-metre-deep El Tajo Gorge, separating Ronda’s old town from its new town. The New Bridge is not new; it was completed in 1793 after 40 years of construction and with the loss of 50 lives.
It wasn’t easy to get photos of the bridge from the top. Unfortunately, my visit did not take me to the valley below New Bridge, where I would have been able to view the entire bridge.
SAN SEBASTIAN – Swim, Eat, Repeat
San Sebastian (called Donostia in Basque) is a resort town on the Bay of Biscay in northern Spain’s Basque Country.
There are no Roman ruins or Moorish architecture in San Sebastian, but you will find urban beaches, eclectic architecture, and a food lover’s paradise. San Sebastian has the second most Michelin stars per capita in the world.
San Sebastian’s famous La Concha Beach is said to be the most beautiful urban beach in Europe. The beach can be busy, but it offers magnificent views of the city and Old Town. Of San Sebastian’s two other main beaches, Ondarreta Beach is a family favourite, while Zurriota Beach is popular with young people and surfers.
San Sebastian’s La Concha Beach with city views.
Strolling along the city’s promenade is a must to admire the beaches and mansions that line this iconic walk.
Conde Nast Traveller’s 2023 Readers’ Choice Award voted San Sebastian the best city to visit in Europe.
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA – Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
Santiago de Compostela is the capital of Galacia, in the far northwest of Spain.
Arriving in Santiago de Compostela with Insight Vacations, I joined a small group on a guided walk through the city’s parks and old town, ending at the cathedral in Plaza del Obradoiro.
View of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela from Alameda Park.
The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela is the reputed burial place of Saint James the Great, one of the apostles of Jesus Christ. The cathedral fronts Plaza del Obradoiro and is the destination for pilgrims walking or cycling the Camino de Santiago (the Way of St James).
Pilgrims arrive in Plaza del Obradoiro after completing the Camino.
The Cathedral and the Camino are UNESCO World Heritage-listed – 1985 and 1993, respectively.
SEGOVIA
Segovia is in central Spain, about 90 kilometres north of Madrid. It is famous for its historic buildings and a great city to visit.
Alcazar of Segovia
The fairy tale Segovia Alcazar.
Continuing a UNESCO World Heritage theme in Segovia, the Alcazar of Segovia (Fortress of Segovia) is a medieval castle that was home to 22 kings.
Its exterior looks like something out of a fairy story. Some say the castle inspired the design of Cinderella’s Castle at Walt Disney World. Can you see the similarity?
Of all the Alcazars I visited in Spain, the Alcazar of Segovia was my favourite. The decorated ceilings were beautiful, and I loved the stained-glass windows.
Hall of Horses in the Old Royal Residence.
Stained-glass window in the Throne Room.
The Gallery Room.
The Hall of Monarchs.
Cathedral of Segovia
Segovia Cathedral.
UNESCO World Heritage-listed in 1985, Segovia Cathedral was the last Gothic cathedral built in Spain.
Construction on the cathedral began in 1525, but it wasn’t consecrated until 1768. Sitting on Segovia’s highest point in Plaza Major (the city’s main square), the Cathedral of Segovia is an imposing building.
I couldn’t enter the cathedral because the Corpus Christi service was underway.
Roman Aqueduct
Segovia Roman Aqueduct.
The Aqueduct of Segovia is a Roman aqueduct built around the first century AD to channel water from springs in the mountains 17 kilometres away to the city’s fountains, public baths, and private houses. Said to be the world’s best-preserved Roman aqueduct, it was in use until 1973.
Twenty thousand four hundred stone blocks were used to construct Segovia’s Aqueduct with no mortar or cement between them. The highest point of the aqueduct is on Plaza del Azoguejo, which stands over 28 metres high, with a total of 167 arches.
This masterpiece of engineering was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985.
SEVILLE
Seville is the capital of Andalusia and the former capital of Muslim Spain. It is a charming city that lacks the crowds of Barcelona and Madrid. Seville is a city of large open spaces, beautiful architecture, and Moorish influences. It is home to the biggest Gothic cathedral in the world, has the largest historic centre in Europe, and is famous for its flamenco dancing. It is hard not to fall in love with Seville when its people evidently take so much pride in their city.
Jardines de Murillo
Exploring the old Jewish Quarter on my own in Seville’s Old Town, I came across the pretty, landscaped, well-maintained urban Jardines de Murillo (Murillo Gardens). Its ceramic tile-covered benches provide welcome spots to relax from the heat under the shade of enormous fig trees.
Jardines de Murillo in Seville’s Jewish Quarter.
Jardines de Murillo (Murillo Gardens).
The gardens border the external walls of the Real Alcazar. The gardens are filled with fountains, children’s play equipment, and a monument to Christopher Columbus.
Jardines de Murillo was my favourite garden in Seville. Its intimate atmosphere saw me returning several times. Never crowded, I would take a book to read while eating a sandwich or sit to gather my energy to continue exploring Seville.
Plaza de Espana
Iconic Plaza de Espana, Seville
The semicircular Plaza de Espana (Spain Square) in Maria Luisa Park blends Renaissance and Moorish-inspired architectural styles. It was built specifically for the 1929 Ibero-American Expo, which aimed to improve Spain’s relations with its former Latin American colonies and make symbolic peace.
Plaza de Espana is a cultural icon, Instagramable, and touted by all the guidebooks as a must-see. So early one morning, on a cooler day in Seville (only 39 degrees Celsius), I played tourist and walked to the plaza.
Along the base of the building, there are 48 benches representing each of Spain’s provinces decorated with colourful ceramic tiles depicting significant historical events. Expect to find visitors and nationals alike taking photos of themselves sitting on the bench of their province or the province of their heritage. Not being of Spanish parentage, I took photos of the benches of the places I had visited.
Plaza de Espana – The tiled bench representing Barcelona.
There are four bridges over the mini canal in front of the plaza. These represent the ancient kingdoms of Spain: Castile, Leon, Navarre, and Aragon.
I enjoyed my few hours at Plaza de Espana and even saw an impromptu flamenco show on the building steps.
Don’t leave Maria Luisa Park without a stroll through its tropical gardens.
Maria Luisa Park.
Real Alcazar (Royal Alcazar of Seville)
The Alcazar of Seville is a thousand years of art and history, combining five periods: Muslim, Gothic, Mudejar, Renaissance, and Romantic.
The Courtyard of the Maidens in Real Alcazar.
Tilework in the Vault Room.
The Ambassador’s Hall.
The Moors greatly influenced southern Spain, and Real Alcazar is another example of beautiful Islamic architecture. Built in the tenth century as government premises, it became a Royal Residence in 1248 when Ferdinand lll moved into it. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Real Alcazar is the oldest Royal Palace still in use today and is used by the King of Spain and his family when in Seville.
The Alcazar’s formal gardens are worth a wander through but don’t eat at the café (unappetising fast food).
One of the many fountains in the Alcazar’s historic gardens.
Seville’s Real Alcazar featured as a location in the Game of Thrones television series.
Seville Cathedral – The Tomb of the Great Navigator
The tomb of Christopher Columbus in Seville Cathedral.
Although probably Italian by birth, Christopher Columbus (known in Spain as Cristobal Colon) completed four voyages across the Atlantic Ocean sponsored by the Spanish monarchy.
His tomb in the Cathedral of Seville is held aloft by four figures representing the four kingdoms of Spain during Columbus’s life: Castile, Aragon, Navarre, and Leon.
Columbus’ body has been moved several times, and the remains in Seville Cathedral are in doubt. DNA testing in 2006 confirmed the body in Seville was either Christopher Columbus or his brother.
Seville Cathedral was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987.
Triana
Triana is a charming working-class neighbourhood in Seville on the west bank of the Guadalquivir River. Puente de Isabel ll (often called Triana Bridge) is the gateway to Triana from the city. Don’t expect spectacular sights but an authentic quarter with surprisingly few tourists.
Isabel ll Bridge viewed from Triana.
Traina is especially famous for:
The Azulejo tiles you see throughout Spain.
Being the birthplace of flamenco.
Azulejos are terracotta tiles covered with opaque glazing. They have been used in Spain since around the 13th century. You will see them everywhere, decorating walls (internal and external), fountains, pavements, and much more. Triana has some lovely shops where you can buy good quality Azulejo products to take home.
See an authentic flamenco show at Almoraima (Calle Pages del Corro, 70) – an intimate venue where the passion of the dance is tangible and visible.
Mercado de Triana (on your right as you leave the bridge) is a lively indoor market with fresh fruits, vegetables, meat (especially Iberian ham), herbs, and fish. You can grab lunch while in the Mercado.
Calle de San Jacinto is Trian’s pedestrian-only street. With its plethora of cafes, bars, and restaurants, you are spoilt for choices of somewhere to eat and people-watch.
Head to Calle de San Jacinto for lunch or dinner.
TOLEDO
While travelling with Insight Vacations through Spain, I opted for a day trip to Toledo, about 70 kilometres south of Madrid, the former capital of Spain.
The Mirador del Valle Lookout
Toledo panorama.
The panoramic view of Toledo from the Mirador del Valle Lookout was breathtaking and a great introduction to this ancient city that owes its rich heritage to the Jews, Muslims, and Christians who lived there in harmony. A city of three cultures, Toledo is a melting pot of Judaism, Christianity, and Islam with impressive monuments. The two large buildings on the city horizon in the photo above are the Cathedral of Toledo on the left and the Alcazar Fortress on the right.
Toledo’s historic centre was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986 as an outstanding museum city.
Toledo Cathedral
Toledo Cathedral’s main facade from the Plaza del Ayuntamiento.
The magnificent Toledo Cathedral was built on the site of a former mosque and took more than 250 years to complete. It is one of Spain’s most famous and important cathedrals, with several monarchs buried in it. The cathedral is dedicated to Saint Mary and features Mudejar architecture (pointed horseshoe arches and ribbed vaults). It is considered one of Spain’s best examples of High Gothic architecture.
The famous “Transparente”, the cathedral’s altarpiece, is seen by many as Spain’s most important Baroque masterpiece. Created in 1732 by the sculptor Narciso Tome and his four sons, the altarpiece is several stories high, with fantastic figures done in marble, bronze castings, stucco, and painting.
The Transparente – Toledo Cathedral’s altarpiece.
A section of The Transparente – Toledo Cathedral’s altarpiece.
Toledo Cathedral is a veritable art gallery with paintings by notable artists: El Greco, Caravaggio, Van Dick, Goya, and Bellini, to name a few. The Sacristy is a small art gallery with a beautiful ceiling fresco painted by Luca Giordana and El Greco’s “The Disrobing of Christ” (“El Expolio”, 1579), taking centre stage on the high altar. Don’t miss the portraits of the 12 apostles painted by El Greco in the cathedral’s Sacristy.
The beautiful ceiling fresco and El Greco’s painting “The Disrobing of Christ”.
The Cathedral of Toledo is home to more than 100 relics, including fragments of the crown of thorns and the breast milk of the Virgin Mary. None are on public view!
My visit to Toledo was memorable, but the city deserved longer than a day trip.
VALENCIA
Valencia is a hidden gem often overlooked by tourists. It is a city that embraces its past while acknowledging the future. It is also the home of paella (a rice dish originally from Valencia). Contrary to common belief, traditional paella is not made with seafood but is made with chicken or rabbit.
My tour with Insight Vacations included a paella cooking demonstration and tasting at la Cigrona in Valencia’s Old Town.
Futuristic Valencia
The City of Arts and Sciences (La Ciudad de y las Artes las Ciencias) is a leisure and cultural complex with its architecture taking Valencia into the 21st century. The complex includes the Science Museum, an IMAX Cinema and Planetarium, Europe’s largest aquarium, and the Palace of Arts.
The City of Arts and Sciences’ Palau de les Arts (Opera House)
The Hemisferic and Science Museum at the City of Arts and Sciences.
Valencia’s Old Town
Founded in 130 BC, Valencia has been home to Romans, Visigoths, and Muslims, giving it a rich history. Its Old Town is one of the largest in Europe and the heart of the city.
Walking around the Old Town is like travelling back to the Middle Ages. La Plaza del Ayuntamiento is the main square and the hub of activity. It is enclosed by beautiful historic buildings featuring Gothic architecture.
I particularly enjoyed escaping the crowds and walking around the Old Town’s residential streets.
A residential street in Valencia’s Old Town.
A half day exploring Valencia’s Old Town with Insight Vacations was not long enough. I want to explore more! Valencia, I will be back!
VALL DE NURIA – A Beautiful Valley in the Pyrenees Mountains
Taking the rack railway from Queralbs, travel the six kilometres to the resort in Vall de Nuria (Nuria Valley). The journey took 20 minutes, climbing from an altitude of 1,236 metres at Queralbs to 1,964 metres at Vall de Nuria.
Vall de Nuria is a valley in the eastern Pyrenees offering spectacular mountain landscapes, winter skiing, and summer hiking trails.
Vall de Nuria viewed from the top of the cable car run.
Vall de Nuria landscape with a view of the lake and resort.
With two hours to explore the valley before catching the train back down the mountain, I decided to hike one of the many trails in the hills around the valley. These trails range from easy to challenging.
Given my limited time, I chose an easy trail, the Way of the Crosses. I was told it would take 50 minutes to walk, but I knew it would take longer as I would constantly stop to take photos. The trail gets its name from the Christian Way of the Cross tradition, with twelve crosses along the way. I made the hike easier on myself by walking down the mountain rather than up. I did this by taking the cable car to the summit, bringing me to an altitude of 2,170 metres. Consequently, I passed the crosses in reverse – from twelve to one.
Way of the Crosses – Station 6.
Way of the Crosses – Station 5.
I journeyed to Vall De Nuria on a day trip with Explore Catalunya.
VIC – The Old Town
The city of Vic (pronounced Bic) is about 69 kilometres north of Barcelona on the Meder River. It is an ancient city, dating back to the Ausetan Iberians before Roman occupation in the 1st century AD, with an interesting and picturesque Old Town.
On a guided walking tour around the Old Town, we passed through several small pretty squares with cafes preparing for the day.
A bicycle adds a touch of romance to a courtyard cafe.
A pretty square makes an ideal spot for a cafe.
I found the interior of Vic’s Sant Pere Cathedral to be unlike anything I had seen previously. Huge, almost monochromatic canvases painted by Joseph Maria Sert cover the walls, making the interior dark and gloomy – an unexpected contrast to the cathedral’s exterior. It wasn’t a place I wanted to linger! However, your reaction may be very different.
Time your visit for market day, which takes place on Tuesdays and Saturdays, with stalls filling the main square.
WHITE VILLAGES OF ANDALUSIA
The name White Village comes from the uniform white colour of the village houses and buildings, covered in lime to keep them cool in the hottest months as the white reflects the sun’s rays.
I visited two White Villages in the province of Cadiz – Grazalema and Zahara de la Sierra.
Grazalema
Grazalema, White Village of Andalusia.
Grazalema, located in Sierra de Grazalema National Park, receives the highest rainfall of the entire Iberian Peninsula. However, on the day of my visit, the skies were clear blue. I had a delicious salad for lunch in Grazalema at Restaurant Cadiz el Chico – Ensalada Caprichosa (lettuce, cheese, nuts, mustard and quince jelly, yoghurt, and red berry coulis) (€12 / AU$19.74).
Grazalema is an attractive village with the tiny porches of its whitewashed houses spilling over with potted flowers.
Zahara de la Sierra
Zahara de la Sierra, White Village in Andalusia.
Zahara de la Sierra is also located in Sierra de Grazalema National Park and has been declared a Historic Site. Being situated on the slopes of the Sierra del Jaral forces the streets to be staggered at different levels. Luckily, the guided walking tour through the village started at the top of the village, and we walked down.
Grazalema and Zahara de la Sierra have been chosen by the Association of the Most Beautiful Villages in Spain as two of the four most beautiful villages in Cadiz Province.
Adios Espana.
THE TWELVE TREASURES OF SPAIN
The Twelve Treasures of Spain lists twelve sites of great historical and cultural value to the Kingdom of Spain. The sites were chosen via a poll by two Spanish broadcasting stations, and the results were announced on 31 December 2007.
Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba
Cave of Altamira (Cantabria)
Seville Cathedral
Alhambra (Granada)
Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar (Zaragoza)
Teide National Park (Tenerife, Canary Islands)
Roman Theatre (Merida)
Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias (City of Arts and Sciences, Valencia)
Sagrada Familia (Barcelona)
Beach of la Concha (San Sebastian)
Guggenheim Museum Bilbao
Spain is a country that seamlessly weaves together a rich history, vibrant culture, breathtaking landscapes, and unforgettable experiences. In wrapping up this extensive guide to the ultimate Spain bucket list, I hope to have ignited your wanderlust and provided invaluable insights to help you plan an unforgettable trip to Spain.
From the architectural masterpieces of Antoni Gaudi in Barcelona and the ancient wonders of the Alhambra and Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba to the natural beauty of the Pyrenees and the hidden gems tucked away in charming villages, this bucket list is not just a checklist but intended as a practical guide for planning your itinerary, offering something for every visitor. My 47 memorable postcards spanning the length and breadth of Spain are just a glimpse into the diverse and incredible things not to be missed when visiting the Iberian Peninsula.
Happy planning and even happier travels!
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
Have you been able to find this Spain Bucket List a helpful resource? I love hearing from you. Please feel free to leave a comment below.
I look forward to reading and responding to your comments on where and what you might include on your trip to Spain that this post has inspired.
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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
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Sassi di Matera: The Stone City of Italy and a UNESCO World Heritage Site Steeped in History and Charm. Welcome to the mesmerising world of Sassi di Matera, a…
Sassi di Matera: The Stone City of Italy and a UNESCO World Heritage Site Steeped in History and Charm.
Welcome to the mesmerising world of Sassi di Matera, a unique and ancient destination. Matera, a city in Italy’s southern region of Basilicata, is renowned for its extraordinary cave dwellings and rock-cut architecture, collectively known as the Sassi. These ancient settlements, carved into limestone cliffs, have earned the Sassi di Matera a place on UNESCO’s World Heritage List and have captivated visitors with their rich history, unique charm, and breathtaking landscapes.
In this travel blog post, I’ll take you on a visual journey through 15 stunning photos that capture the essence and allure of the Sassi di Matera. Each image tells a story, inviting you into a world where cave dwellings, narrow winding streets and alleyways, and rock-cut architecture create an otherworldly landscape.
Whether you’re a history buff, a culture enthusiast, or simply seeking a destination off the beaten path, Sassi di Matera offers an unforgettable experience. Let these photos inspire you to pack your bags and immerse yourself in the wonders of this timeless Italian gem.
Situated in the “instep” of Italy’s “boot”, Sassi di Matera (literal translation from Italian, “Stones of Matera”) were declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1993, while Matera was awarded the 2019 European Capital of Culture. However, Matera, particularly the Sassi, did not always deserve these honours. Not so many decades ago, Matera’s Sassi was a place of national humiliation dubbed the “Shame of Italy”.
The Sassi di Matera has two districts – Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano. They are ancient! – prehistoric troglodyte settlements where people have lived in cave dwellings since 7000 BC.
The Sassi have a colourful history that has seen them go from the earliest inhabited city in Italy to a place of national humiliation to Italy’s pride. This history, which is still visible today, makes Sassi di Matera a matchless tourist destination.
A brief history – from shame to honour
In his book Christ Stopped at Eboli (published in 1945), Carlo Levi put Sassi di Matera on the world map when he highlighted the poor living conditions. He painted a picture of abject poverty. Malaria, cholera and typhoid were rampant in the Sassi. Families and their animals were living together under the same roof in dwellings with no natural light or ventilation, no electricity, water or sewers, and there was a high rate of infant mortality.
The Sassi became an embarrassment to the Italian Government. So much so that in 1950, the Prime Minister declared a state of emergency and put plans in place to move the Sassi’s inhabitants out. By 1952, the Sassi were empty – abandoned through forced removal.
After sitting dormant for a few decades, the Sassi began to transform, starting in the 1970s with artists and hippies rediscovering Matera’s Sassi. This urban renewal and a younger generation expressing their desire to bring the caves back to life led the Italian Government to pass a law in 1986 to repopulate the Sassi, connecting water and electricity and subsidising restoration work to encourage the Sassi’s revival.
And the people did come – restoring caves as homes, hotels, restaurants and bars. But many are still uninhabitable.
Abandoned cave dwellings in Matera’s Sassi.
Not all the cave dwellings in the Sassi are inhabited.
Sassi di Matera’s revival was further cemented in 1993 when UNESCO listed it as a World Heritage Site for being “the most outstanding, intact example of a troglodyte settlement in the Mediterranean region” and being named 2019 European Capital of Culture.
Matera has reclaimed its dignity and credibility in the eyes of Italy and the world.
Discover Sassi di Matera
I travelled to Matera on a 17-day small group tour with Albatross Tours on their Italy, the Deep South & Sicily tour, staying two nights in the Sassi.
The Sassi are carved into the limestone cliffs of a deep ravine gouged out by the Gravina River. First viewed from across the ravine, the Sassi di Matera were like nothing I had seen before. I have visited Troglodyte caves in France and spent time in Cappadocia in Turkey. But the Sassi di Matera, with caves stacked on each other while clinging to the steep slope, was a stand-alone matchless sight. Then, creating a unique juxtaposition, the modern city of Matera overlooks the Sassi from its height at the top of the hill.
Sassi di Matera viewed from across the ravine.
The modern city of Matera sits on top of the ancient Sassi.
My first ‘taste’ of Sassi di Matera and what it must be like to live in the Sassi was my accommodation for two nights in the luxury Le Grotte della Civita – a cave hotel on the edge of the ravine in the most ancient Sassi area.
My hotel room – a restored cave in Le Grotte della Civita.
Le Grotte della Civita consists of 18 large ‘rooms’ with ensuites. All the rooms are individual caves that have been beautifully restored whilst retaining their original features. The furnishings were simple but tasteful, with much of the lighting provided by candles. The breakfast was served in a reclaimed cave that was once a church and was typical of southern Italy – consisting of various breads, cakes, pastries, meats, jams and cheeses. My stay at Le Grotte della Civita was truly memorable.
After a very comfortable night’s sleep and a delicious breakfast, I joined the walking tour in the morning with a local guide. Walking tours are a great way to get acquainted with a city and learn its history. The walking tour of Sassi di Matera was a fascinating history lesson while being introduced to significant sites. The tour included visiting a cave dwelling to see how families lived in their stone houses and viewing one of the ancient Rupestrian Churches with its biblical frescoes on the cave walls dating back to the Middle Ages.
By the end of the tour, I felt prepared to spend the afternoon and evening on my own, exploring and discovering the labyrinth that is Sassi di Matera. I was in my element, walking around the narrow streets and alleyways, talking to the locals, checking out their cafes, and having all the time I wanted to take photos. A word of advice: you will need comfortable shoes to walk around the Sassi as there are many steep steps to negotiate, given the Sassi are built on the side of a ravine.
There are lots of steps in Sassi di Matera.
Matera has 180 churches, 40 of which are in the Sassi, including the Cathedral and the rock-cut Church of Santa Maria di Idris.
The Church of Santa di Idris.
My favourite church was the Church of Purgatory, constructed as a place for people to pray for the souls trapped in limbo between heaven and hell. Completed in 1747, its recurring and only theme is that of death. The baroque façade of the church and its doors are covered with carvings of skulls, skeletons, crossbones, and other death-related decor. While a church focusing on death might seem a bit Grim Reaper-ish, it was fashionable at the time of construction, as death was not seen as the end but as the beginning of a new life.
Skulls and skeletons on the facade of the Church of Purgatory.
The Church go Purgatory’s carved wooden door.
Exploring the Sassi di Matera
While the Sassi may look like masses of houses, the house-like facades are only that, as the ‘houses’ are dug well into the rock, forming the cave dwellings Matera is famous for.
In the Sassi di Matera, caves look like houses.
Sassi di Matera – a mass of cave dwellings that look like houses.
Houses in the Sassi are built on top of other houses, where many of the streets are built on the roofs of houses, and floors are ceilings of houses below.
Sassi di Matera – roofs are streets, and floors are ceilings.
You would be forgiven for thinking the Sassi are a place of shadow and crampedness. But not so. The squares in the Sassi are sun-drenched open spaces flanked by cafes, shops, churches, and restaurants – great for people-watching.
Wander the Sassi di Matera.
View of the Sassi through a doorway.
World Heritage Listed Sassi di Matera.
Historical and Cultural Timeline:
2019: Matera is the European Capital of Culture.
2014: Tourism starts to take off. This was most likely due to Matera being named the 2019 European Capital of Culture, and Matera began preparations for a year of events highlighting culture and the arts.
1993: UNESCO lists Sassi di Matera as a World Heritage Site.
1986: Italian law changes and people are encouraged to return to the Sassi.
1952: Abandonment of the Sassi through the Italian Government’s forced removal of its inhabitants.
Prehistory: (approximately 9,000 years ago) People first inhabited the Sassi.
Fun facts
Several Directors have used Sassi di Matera as a film location for their movies:
Mel Gibson’s controversial movie, The Passion of the Christ, 2004;
Pier Paolo Pasolini’s The Gospel According to St Matthew, 1964; and
King David was directed by Bruce Beresford and starred Richard Gere in 1985.
It would seem Matera’s Sassi makes for a great ancient Jerusalem.
The 2021 James Bond movie No Time to Die also used Sassi di Matera as a film location.
Sassi di Matera is not just a destination; it’s an immersive journey through time, offering a unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty that promises to leave a lasting impression on anyone fortunate enough to explore its enchanting streets.
The Sassi beckons, inviting you to witness a living backdrop as you explore a world where tradition meets innovation. The 15 photos you’ve seen here in my blog post are mere snapshots of the unforgettable travel experience that awaits you in person. Dare to wander off the beaten path!
Editor’s Note: I originally published this blog post in March 2019 and have updated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
Have I aroused your curiosity about Sassi di Matera? Are you inspired to visit Italy’s unique Stone City, a valuable UNESCO World Heritage Site? I love hearing from you. Join the conversation and leave a comment below.
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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
Embark on an Unforgettable Journey on France’s Canal du Midi and Experience Extraordinary Engineering Feats That Are Works of Art. What do you know about the Canal du Midi? …
Embark on an Unforgettable Journey on France’s Canal du Midi and Experience Extraordinary Engineering Feats That Are Works of Art.
What do you know about the Canal du Midi?
Set against the picturesque landscape of southern France, the Canal du Midi is a serene waterway and a testament to human creativity and engineering brilliance. Prepare to be awe-struck by three engineering marvels that have stood the test of time and captivated all who encounter them.
In this travel blog post, I invite you to join me on a journey uncovering the stories behind the three remarkable wonders of human ingenuity I discovered when sailing from Marseillan to Salleles d’Aude on a hotel barge on the historic Canal du Midi: the masterfully constructed Orb Aqueduct that defies gravity, the intricately designed seven-step Fonserannes Locks that challenge navigation skills, and the mystical Malpas Tunnel that channels the canal through a hill.
I am not an engineering expert, but crossing the Orb Aqueduct, climbing the Fonserannes Locks, and traversing the Malpas Tunnel were extraordinary experiences and unforgettable highlights of my barge cruise on the Canal du Midi with European Waterways. They have left a lasting impression on me that I want to share with you, and I hope you get to experience them for yourself.
The Canal du Midi
Cruising the Canal du Midi
The Canal du Midi in southern France was constructed between 1666 and 1681 by the 17th-century canal engineer Pierre-Paul Riquet. It is considered one of the most significant construction works of the 17th century and is one of the oldest canals still in use in Europe. The Canal du Midi was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.
The Canal du Midi runs for 240 kilometres from the Etang de Thau, a sheltered lagoon behind the Mediterranean port of Sete, to Toulouse, where it joins the Canal de Garonne – connecting the Mediterranean Sea to the Atlantic Ocean. The Etang de Thau at Marseillan was the starting point for my barge cruise on the Canal du Midi with European Waterways.
I cruised the Canal du Midi on European Waterway’s first-class, eight-passenger hotel barge, the Adjodi. The section of the Canal du Midi we cruised included three impressive 17th-century engineering feats – the Orb Aqueduct, Fonserannes Locks, and Malpas Tunnel. But you don’t need to be an engineer to appreciate, enjoy, and be thrilled by these wonders of the Canal du Midi.
The sun sets on another day on the Cana du Midi.
Orb Aqueduct
Our barge navigates the Canal du Midi along the Orb Aqueduct at Beziers.
A photo of a barge navigating the Orb Aqueduct (Pont-Canal de l’Orbat) at Beziers in southern France has always been my ‘vision’ of the Canal du Midi and one of the reasons I wanted to do a barge cruise on the canal. No other image of the Canal du Midi was more iconic than the Orb Aqueduct.
The Orb Aqueduct is a one-lane bridge carrying the Canal du Midi over the Orb River. At 240 metres long, 28 metres wide, 12 metres high, and with seven arches, the Orb Aqueduct is one of the largest aqueducts in France and the largest on the Canal du Midi. Prior to the opening of the Orb Aqueduct in 1858, the Canal du Midi traversed a short, treacherous section of the Orb River that would sink boats or leave them stranded for weeks due to its unpredictable flow. Building the aqueduct allowed boats to bypass the dangerous Orb River safely.
The aqueduct carries the canal in a masonry trough sealed with a layer of concrete. The concrete seal was replaced in 1951; otherwise, the original structure still exists. You can walk the length of Orb Aqueduct as there is a towpath on both sides.
The Orb Aqueduct was classified as a National Historical Monument in 1962 and was listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1996.
Six of the Orb Aqueduct’s seven arches.
The Orb Aqueduct carries the Canal du Midi over the River Orb.
Fonserannes Locks
The seven-rise lock staircase or Fonserannes.
Locks are an integral part of any barge cruise, and on the Canal du Midi, I got my gratifying fill of them. However, none would raise my excitement or sense of adventure as much as the seven-rise lock staircase of Fonserannes (also known as the Fonserannes Locks or the Fonserannes Staircase) near the town of Beziers.
When the Canal du Midi was constructed in the 17th century, Pierre-Paul Riquet had to overcome the problem of crossing the Orb River, which was 48 metres higher than the natural course of the canal waterway. The answer was the Fonserannes Lock Staircase, a staggering feat of engineering and very impressive, even to my untrained eye. It is one of the features that led to the Canal du Midi being declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.
Fonserannes Lock Staircase is a 312-metre-long water staircase, allowing boats and barges to negotiate a 25-metre gradient by passing through seven oval-shaped lock chambers and eight gates. There is an eighth chamber, but it is no longer in use. Boats are raised (or lowered) 21.5 metres over a distance of 300 metres, with the deepest rise (or drop) over six metres.
A boat climbs the Fonserannes Staircase Locks.
We approached the Fonserannes seven-rise lock staircase from the Orb Aqueduct and travelled up the lock staircase. Our barge captain took over 30 minutes to negotiate the boat’s climb through the seven chambers. The force and speed at which the water rushes into the chamber when a gate opens is astounding.
Our barge navigates through Fonserannes Locks.
One lock chamber must have been particularly challenging because going under the bridge that spanned the gate dislodged the height indicator pole (a red flag on a pole on the boat’s bow). As I understand it, the lockkeeper allowed too much water to enter the lock, making the water in the chamber higher than it should have been. Our captain had to duck very low to ensure his head didn’t connect with the bridge.
A low bridge knocked over the red-flagged height indicator pole.
We stopped for the night at the top of Fonserannes Staircase Locks. So, I took the opportunity to walk the towpath back to the Orb Aqueduct, an easy, flat 20-minute walk.
Malpas Tunnel
Our barge approaches the Malpas Tunnel on the Canal du Midi.
The Malpas Tunnel, between Bezier and Capstang on the Canal du Midi, was the first tunnel ever dug for a canal. The tunnel was excavated in 1679 in secret by the canal’s chief engineer, Pierre-Paul Riquet, as the Prime Minister had stopped the plan to dig a canal tunnel through Enserune Hill because initial excavations revealed the tunnel was liable to collapse due to the hill being brittle sandstone. Over 300 years later, the Malpas Tunnel is still navigable! And there is now even a railway tunnel ten metres below the canal tunnel, built nearly 200 years later!
Local folklore has it that after the completion of the Malpas Tunnel, one of the workers built a small nook inside the tunnel’s ceiling and lived there as a hermit. When barges passed through the tunnel, the crew threw bread into the opening for the hermit. Barge crews still sometimes throw a piece of bread into the opening of the nook as a “gift for the hermit”.
Our captain did not throw bread into the opening in the ceiling, but he did play the finale of Tchaikovsky’s 1812 Overture (at least, I think that was what it was). I did not fathom the relevance of this, but the music sounded incredible and very dramatic as it echoed off the tunnel walls.
The hermit nook in the ceiling of Malpas Tunnel.
Canal de Jonction
I want to leave you with my favourite photo I took on the Canal du Midi barge cruise. It is not the Canal du Midi per se but taken when we stopped for the night at Salleles d’Aude on the Canal de Jonction. The Canal de Jonction is a shortcut from the Canal du Midi to the Canal de la Robine. It was early morning, the water was milk-pond still, and the reflections of our barge and the trees lining the canal created an unforgettable image.
The Adjodi reflected in the still waters at Salleles d’Aude on the Canal de Jonction.
Reflecting on my journey along the Canal du Midi, I am in awe of the ingenuity and determination that brought these three remarkable engineering marvels to life. The Orb Aqueduct is a testament to the courage of human vision, carrying the canal over the valley below. The Fonserannes Locks remind us of our ability to conquer and harness the raw forces of nature. And then there is the Malpas Tunnel, a hidden passage shrouded in history and mystery carved through solid rock.
As you traverse the tranquil waters of the Canal du Midi, it’s impossible not to be humbled by the visionaries who conceived these extraordinary structures. Their dedication to crafting a passage that conquered natural obstacles while blending with the landscape continues to inspire admiration centuries later.
Whether you’re a history buff, an engineering enthusiast, or a traveller searching for unique experiences, the Canal du Midi’s engineering marvels promise an unforgettable journey.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
Carcassonne Citadel is a medieval treasure in Southern France. It is the most complete medieval town in existence today and is worth two to three days to explore.
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Carcassonne Citadel is a Medieval Treasure in Southern France. Dear Ryan, One of the highlights of my Canal du Midi cruise with European Waterways was a morning in the…
Carcassonne Citadel is a Medieval Treasure in Southern France.
Carcassonne Citadel entrance gate
Dear Ryan,
One of the highlights of my Canal du Midi cruise with European Waterways was a morning in the Citadel of Carcassonne. The barge captain was surprised I had not heard of Carcassonne Citadel as it is one of France’s premier tourist attractions. But, as you know, I have only been to France once before, and that was to a different region.
So, here is what I learned about Carcassonne Citadel…
It is the most complete medieval fortified town in existence today and the largest in Europe.
It has about 2,500 years of history and was occupied by the Romans, Visigoths, and Crusaders at different periods.
Three kilometres of double walls interspersed with 52 watchtowers surround the citadel.
It is a lived-in citadel with houses, schools, shops, restaurants, hotels, basilica, and museums.
The citadel is open 24/7 and is free to enter. However, there is an admission fee to visit Carcassonne Castle and its ramparts.
Carcassonne Citadel was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.
European Waterways took us on a two-hour guided walking tour around the walls, through the citadel, and into the Basilica Saint Nazaire. We were given admission tickets for the castle and ramparts, but I didn’t see them. After going to the toilet and watching the visual display at the entrance, I had to leave the castle as it was time to meet our guide to leave Carcassonne.
Basilica Saint Nazaire
Our visit to Carcassonne Citadel was too rushed and deserved so much more time. I could have spent 2-3 days there instead of the few hours allocated to the visit.
I would stay within the citadel. From my view of its exterior, the Hotel de la Cite next to the basilica appealed to me. That it is a 5-star hotel probably added to that appeal, even if it is beyond my budget.
Exploring the castle beyond the toilet block would be a bonus. And I am told the views from the ramparts are stunning. But I would want to walk them to see for myself.
I would like to eat at the many restaurants, buy lots of nougat, and shop until I drop. The clothes and leather goods shops were of particular interest.
Three days would give me time to visit some of the museums within the citadel and Carcassonne city, for example, the School Museum, the Museum of the Inquisition, and the Museum of Fine Arts. Perhaps I need four days!
Did you know there is a Carcassonne board game? Apparently, it is one of the most beloved and well-known board games in the world. I have never heard of it. Just something else to add to my ignorance about Carcassonne!
Next stop, Spain.
Love,
Joanna
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
Prepare to be awe-struck by three extraordinary engineering marvels on the Canal du Midi that are works of art – the Orb Aqueduct, Fonserannes Staircase Locks, and Malpas Tunnel.
In this blog post, I take you on a majestic journey to seven magnificent chateaux in the Loire Valley. Each offers a unique window into France’s rich history and architectural splendour, which has helped shape the Loire Valley’s iconic landscape.
