Whispers of Royalty: A Brief Tour Through the Royal Treasures of the Loire Valley – Immerse Yourself in the Grandeur and Romance of Seven Exquisite French Castles. The Loire…
Whispers of Royalty: A Brief Tour Through the Royal Treasures of the Loire Valley – Immerse Yourself in the Grandeur and Romance of Seven Exquisite French Castles.
The Loire Valley, between Sully-sur-Loir and Chalonnes, was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000. This region in central France is famous for its stunning scenery, historical significance, and world-class wines, but it is best known for its spectacular chateaux. These grand structures, with their imposing facades, intricate details, and sprawling gardens, offer visitors a unique glimpse into centuries of royal splendour.
In this blog post, I invite you on a majestic journey through time and architecture, unveiling seven magnificent castles that have helped shape the Loire Valley’s iconic landscape. I’ll take you to the meticulously manicured gardens of Chateau de Villandry, the Renaissance grandeur of Chateau d’Amboise, and Chateau de Chenonceau’s graceful arches spanning the Cher River.
“See 7 Unique French Chateaux in the Beautiful Loire Valley” promises an unforgettable journey through a world of royal luxury and timeless charm. There is a chateau to captivate every visitor.
Getting around the chateaux
I have three suggestions for you on getting to the chateaux in the Loire Valley:
Indulge in the freedom of a self-drive road trip around the chateaux. If you don’t have your own vehicle, pick up a hire car in Tours and head to Chateau de Villandry for your first castle. You can catch the TGV (fast train) from Paris to Tours, visit the chateaux in the order presented in this post, and drop the hire car off in Orleans.
If you don’t like driving in a strange country, especially if this entails driving on the side of the road you are unfamiliar with, then a guided day tour or two may be the way to go.
Or, if you’re like me and want to visit the chateaux in the most relaxed fashion possible, take a river cruise on a hotel barge. A hotel barge cruise in the Loire Valley is a truly unique and unforgettable travel experience. It is a perfect way to relax, explore a beautiful region, and indulge in the finer things in life.
More than 300 chateaux are in the Loire Valley, and about 100 are open to the public. So, no matter how you plan to get around, you need to consider which chateaux you want to visit, as I doubt you will get to all of them.
This post takes you to the seven chateaux I visited with my family while cruising on a hotel barge on the Cher River.
Chateau de Villandry
Chateau de Villandry and ornamental garden.
Chateau de Villandry is located at the confluence of the Loire and Cher rivers. Completed in 1536, it was built on the site of an old 12th-century fortress, with the medieval tower still existing. The chateau exemplifies Renaissance architecture, characterised by symmetry, classical proportions, columns, and arches, while its richly decorated interior reflects various historical periods. However, it is the magnificent gardens that Chateau de Villandry is famous for, having been lovingly restored to their Renaissance glory in the early 1900s.
We were given a guided tour of Chateau de Villandry’s interior, but I most enjoyed spending time on my own, leisurely wandering around and exploring the exquisite gardens.
Chateau de Villandry’s gardens cover about nine hectares. They are laid out in a formal Renaissance style and divided into several terraces, including the Ornamental Garden, Water Garden, and Sun Garden.
Chateau de Villandry’s formal Renaissance-style gardens.
Chateau de Villandry’s formal Renaissance-style gardens are divided into several terraces.
I was particularly captivated by the 16th-century-style Kitchen Garden, where the vegetables are laid out in a colourful chequerboard pattern according to their type. Enough to make anyone want to eat their veggies!
Chateau de Villandry and the Kitchen Garden.
Chateau de Villandry’s Kitchen Garden.
Chateau de Villandry has been the home of the Carvallo family since 1906. It is an acknowledged historic monument and part of the Loire Valley UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Chateau d’Amboise
Chateau d’Amboise (The Royal Castle).
The stunning Chateau d’Amboise, also referred to as Chateau Royal d’Amboise, is a historically significant royal residence with a rich past.
Originally a medieval fortress, Chateau d’Amboise became a royal residence in the late 15th century when King Charles VIII transformed it into a luxurious palace. Later, King Francis I continued its development, turning the chateau into a symbol of the French Renaissance.
Chateau d’Amboise is a mix of Gothic and Renaissance architectural styles with impressive defence structures, such as round towers and fortified walls.
Chateau d’Amboise’s gothic architecture.
Chateau d’Amboise’s round tower.
The chateau is situated on top of a hill in the heart of Amboise, offering panoramic views of the Loire River, the valley, and the town below. It is surrounded by about two hectares of beautifully landscaped gardens and terraces within its walls.
Chateau d’Amboise’s landscaped gardens.
Amboise – the old quarter below the hilltop castle.
Chateau d’Amboise is part of the Loire Valley UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Chateau d’Amboise is particularly famous for its association with Leonardo da Vinci, the renowned Italian artist and polymath. King Francis I invited Da Vinci to France, and he spent his final three years at the nearby Chateau du Clos Luce. Leonardo da Vinci is buried in Saint-Hubert Chapel on the grounds of Chateau d’Amboise.
Leonardo da Vinci’s tomb in Chateau d’Amboise’s Saint Hubert Chapel.
Chateau du Clos Luce
Chateau du Clos Luce (Home of Leonardo da Vinci)
Chateau du Clos Luce is about 400 metres down the road from Chateau d’Amboise and is renowned for being Leonardo da Vinci’s final residence for the last three years of his life, from 1516 until he died in 1519.
In 1516, King Francis I invited Leonardo da Vinci to Amboise and provided him with the Chateau du Clos Luce as his residence. An underground passageway connects Chateau du Clos Luce and Chateau d’Amboise, enabling the King and da Vinci to meet daily without being recognised.
Chateau du Close Luce is a mix of Gothic and Renaissance architectural styles. It features a red brick and white stone façade, large windows, and elegant towers. Its interior reflects the period when Leonardo da Vinci lived in the chateau, with Renaissance furnishings and tapestries. We were given a guided tour of the rooms where Leonardo lived and worked, including his bedroom and studio.
Leonardo da Vinci’s bedroom in Chateau du Clos Luce.
A large park surrounds Chateau du Clos Luce – Parc Leonardo da Vinci. The park features landscaped gardens, water features, and life-sized models of Leonardo’s most ingenious inventions, including flying and war machines. I had fun walking around the park, learning more about Leonardo’s genius the further I explored – a unique open-air museum.
Model of Leonardo da Vinci’s tank in Leonardo da Vinci Park.
Chateau du Clos Luce is part of the Loire Valley UNESCO World Heritage Site and offers a unique glimpse into Leonardo da Vinci’s final years of life.
Chateau de Fontenay
Chatea de Fontenay (Wine and Dine!)
Chateau de Fontenay is a winegrowing estate on the banks of the Cher River, cultivating 15 hectares of vines.
If you ever fancied staying in a castle, look no further than Chateau de Fontenay, which offers several guest rooms. When not walking around the castle’s 17 hectares of parkland or joining a bicycle tour, you can visit the vineyards and cellars and enjoy a wine tasting.
Chateau de Fontenay’s splendour complements the scenic beauty along the Cher River.
Chateau de Chenonceau
Château de Chenonceau (The ‘Ladies Castle’)
While all the chateaux we visited on this trip were memorable, Chateau de Chenonceau was my absolute favourite. It was also the only Loire Valley chateau I knew of before our visit.
Completed in 1522, the chateau combines Gothic and Renaissance architectural styles. It has a rich history dominated by an almost uninterrupted succession of influential women who owned and managed its upkeep and construction over the centuries. This dominance of women owners has led to Chateau de Chenonceau being known as ‘The Ladies Castle’.
Chateau de Chenonceau’s famous five-arch bridge spanning the Cher River was built by Diana de Poitiers, mistress of King Henri II and the chateau’s first female owner. Its architecture is unique in the world. The bridge’s interior forms the iconic grey and white chequerboard floored Grand Gallery. At 60 metres long and six metres wide, the Grand Gallery hosted many lavish parties and dances.
Chateau de Chenonceau’s Grand Gallery spans the Cher River.
Complete your tour of Chateau de Chenonceau with a stroll through its themed gardens, showcasing the beauty of French Renaissance landscaping.
One of the gardens at Chateau de Chenonceau.
Chateau de Chenonceau was designated a Historic Monument by the French Ministry of Culture in 1840, a title it has retained to the present day.
We got to admire the beauty of this fairytale chateau from land, gliding beneath its arches on a barge and soaring above it in a hot-air balloon. This unparalleled experience provided a truly multifaceted perspective of this architectural gem.
Château de Chenonceau – Cruising the Cher River beneath its arches.
Aerial view of Chateau de Chenonceau taken from a hot air balloon.
Chateau de Blois
The facade of Chateau de Blois with a statue of King Louis XII seated on a horse over the entrance.
The Royal Chateau de Blois is so named because it was a favourite residence of seven kings and ten queens of France. Built around a massive courtyard, the chateau is a blend of architectural styles, with its four wings built in a different period of history and having its own architectural style.
Each wing is an example of four significant periods in French architecture from the Middle Ages to the 17th century:
Starting life as a medieval fortress in the 13th century, little remains of the buildings from this period.
The Louis XIII wing (1498-1500) with its Gothic architecture.
Chateau de Blois’ Louis XII wing.
The Francois I wing (1515-1518) has a Renaissance architectural style and a celebrated external corkscrew staircase.
Chateau de Blois – The Francois I wing with its external staircase.
The classical architecture of the Gaston d’Orleans wing (1635-1638).
Chateau de Blois’ Gaston d’Orleans wing
Chateau de Blois has been classified as a Historic Monument since 1845.
Chateau de Chambord
Chateau de Chambord (The Hunting Lodge!)
It is said that Chateau de Chambord is one of the most recognisable chateaux in the world because of its distinctive French Renaissance architecture, which blends traditional French medieval forms with classical Renaissance structures. However, I must admit I had never heard of Chateau de Chambord before my visit while cruising the Cher River.
All I can say is I was awestruck when I saw it! Chateau de Chambord is massive! It is the largest and most extravagant chateau in the Loire Valley, with 440 rooms, 84 staircases, and 282 fireplaces. Despite its size, it was built for King Francis I of France (commencing 1519) as a mere hunting lodge! I can well imagine that it did meet its intention as a symbol of King Francis I’s power and wealth.
Chateau de Chambord’s most famous feature is its spiral double helix staircase, consisting of two stairways spiralling around each other, allowing two people to ascend or descend at the same time without ever seeing each other. It is believed, though unsupported, that Leonardo da Vinci may have had a hand in designing this staircase.
The chateau’s roofline, with its numerous towers, chimneys, and dormer windows, resembles a small city from a distance.
Chateau de Chambord’s roofline looks like a small city.
The chateau is set in a vast 5,433-hectare park and hunting reserve enclosed by a 32-kilometre wall, making it the largest enclosed park in Europe.
Chateau de Chambord is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a must-see for any visitor to the Loire Valley. It has been owned by the French State since 1930.
As you and I conclude this journey to these magnificent chateaux of the Loire Valley, it’s clear that each offers a unique window into France’s rich history and architectural splendour. From the meticulously manicured gardens of Chateau de Villandry to the royal residence of Chateau d’Amboise, from Leonardo da Vinci’s final home at Chateau du Clos Luce to the elegance of Chateau de Chenonceau bridging the Cher River and from the architectural evolution on display at Chateau de Blois to the grand hunting lodge of Chateau de Chambord, each castle tells its captivating story.
I encourage you to embark on your own adventure through France’s beautiful Loire Valley, exploring its spectacular castles and creating memories that will last a lifetime. Whether you’re a history buff, a garden enthusiast, or simply seeking a touch of royal luxury, the French chateaux in the Loire Valley await, ready to reveal their treasures and transport you to a world of elegance, history, and wonder.
Let your heart be captured, and your imagination ignited!
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
Mountains, Museums, and Medieval Magic: Catalonia Unveiled Through Unforgettable Day Trips for Every Traveller. Welcome to my travel blog, where I am excited to share with you exceptional day…
Mountains, Museums, and Medieval Magic: Catalonia Unveiled Through Unforgettable Day Trips for Every Traveller.
Welcome to my travel blog, where I am excited to share with you exceptional day trips beyond the streets of Barcelona. Join me as I recount my unforgettable experiences on five diverse and awe-inspiring tours from Barcelona. From towering mountains to rugged coastlines, from quaint medieval villages frozen in time to the birthplace of Surrealism, these five exceptional tours take you to another world of Catalonian beauty and wonder.
Catalonia’s diverse landscapes offer a diversity of experiences. Embarking on day trips from Barcelona opens up a world of exploration, where each destination promises its unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. Whether you’re drawn to the spiritual heights of Montserrat, the sun-kissed shores of Costa Brava, the timeless charm of medieval villages, the rugged grandeur of the Pyrenees, or the artistic legacy of Salvador Dali, there’s a world of exploration waiting to be uncovered. Catalonia’s day trips have something for everyone!
I booked this tour from Australia before leaving for Spain.
Julia Travel promotes this small group trip as discovering “one of the most mystic Catalan wonders”.
Montserrat Monastery is an 11th-century Benedictine monastery on Montserrat Mountain (meaning ‘serrated mountain’), 60 kilometres northwest of Barcelona. The monastery hangs onto the side of the mountain 725 metres above sea level.
About 80 monks reside at the monastery, which is famous for the Black Madonna statue in the basilica and one of the oldest boys’ choirs in Europe.
Montserrat Monastery perched on the side of the mountain.
I took this photo of Montserrat Monastery across the valley at the Cross of St Michael.
The tour as I experienced it:
There were five of us on the Montserrat full-day tour, plus the guide. We travelled on the bus from Barcelona to Montserrat with the morning-only tour participants, separating into two groups (morning-only group and full-day group) on arrival at Montserrat Abbey.
An hour after leaving Barcelona, we arrived at the rack railway (also referred to as the Cremallera) at the bottom of Montserrat Mountain in the small town of Monistrol de Montserrat for the cogwheel train ride up the mountain to the centre of the Monserrat Monastery complex. The five-kilometre, 15-minute ride provided fantastic views of this unusual mountain. As you leave the train, pause to take in the views of the mountain that towers above the monastery and basilica and the deep valley below.
The morning was spent with our tour guide, learning about the monastery, visiting the basilica and Black Madonna, and watching a short documentary about the monastery’s world-famous Boys’ Choir (L’Escolania).
We could not see the Boys’ Choir perform in person as the boys were on school holidays.
The Atrium (open courtyard) in front of the Basilica and front facade of the Basilica.
The Black Madonna inside Montserrat Basilica.
The famous Black Madonna wooden statue sits behind glass at the back of the church above the high altar. We joined the queue of pilgrims and tourists to file past the Black Madonna, where many stopped to touch her hand through a cut in the glass.
According to our guide, the Madonna’s face is black due to a botched restoration in about the 12th century when the wrong varnish was used, turning her face black. It was decided to leave her face black, with locals saying that maybe the Madonna wanted a black face. However, historical descriptions of the Madonna say she has simply darkened over time. This latter theory makes more sense, given that the face of the baby Jesus sitting on Madonna’s lap also appears black.
The guided morning tour ended at 12.10 pm, and we were free to spend the rest of the day as we pleased, meeting again at 6.15 pm for the bus trip back to Barcelona.
With the afternoon free, I was eager to take a walk on Montserrat Mountain, starting at the top and walking down. To do this, I rode the Funicular de Sant Joan from Montserrat Monastery to the summit of Montserrat Mountain, about 300 metres above the monastery. I took the path to the left of the Funicular station that wound around and down the mountain to the Cross of Saint Michael (Sant Miquel)) and back down to the monastery.
The signpost at the beginning of the path indicated it was a 40-minute walk to the Cross of Saint Michael. The Cross was about one and a half hours into my very steep descent down Montserrat Mountain, and I still had about 20 minutes to go before I arrived back at the monastery. But I was in no hurry as I took in the spectacular views of Montserrat Mountain’s unique geological (‘serrated’) formation and the valleys and river below.
View from Montserrat (‘serrated’) Mountain.
Cross of Saint Michael and the valley below
While the walk down the mountain was not technically demanding (it’s a paved path nearly all the way), I did find the steep descent challenging. There were times when the decline was so steep my back was almost vertical to the path. The heat was another challenging factor. I’m sure I was on that mountain on its hottest day ever recorded!
Back at Montserrat Monastery, I had a late lunch at the cafeteria – a buffet that cost €19,50 and was not worth the money.
My tour review / final thoughts:
According to their website, Julia Travel no longer offers the full-day Montserrat tour from Barcelona that I did. Instead, they offer a morning (5.5 hours) and afternoon (4.5 hours) tour with the cogwheel train at €59 and €51, respectively.
Having done both the morning and full-day tours a few weeks apart, I believe a half-day tour does not allow time to immerse yourself in the beauty of the mountains where the monastery sits. While visiting the abbey and basilica and learning their history was interesting, the highlight for me was the walk on Montserrat Mountain. It would be a shame to miss out on one of the several walks you can take around Montserrat.
The Sant Jeroni walking trail on Montserrat Mountain
There was a communication issue with Julia Travel on this tour. Arriving in Montserrat, the guide sent us to grab a coffee as she was trying to contact Julia Travel to organise our entrance tickets into the basilica and the Black Madonna, delaying the start of the tour by half an hour. Then, when it came to leaving Montserrat, Julia Travel forgot there were five of us doing the full-day tour and supposedly leaving on the same bus as the afternoon tour. However, 50 people were on the afternoon tour, and it was a 50-seater bus. Consequently, we (the five full-day tour group) were taken off the bus and had to wait for another bus from Barcelona to come and get us. So, instead of leaving Montserrat at 6.15 pm, we left an hour later, arriving back in Barcelona at 8.10 pm. Luckily, it wasn’t dark as I had a 35-minute walk back to the hotel, and people were only starting to come out for dinner in restaurants then.
I found Julia Travel’s communication a repetitive problem. I had booked another tour with Julie Travel to Salvador Dali’s Theatre-Museum and Villages – a tour I was particularly keen on taking. However, arriving at 8.00 am at Julia Travel’s office on the day of the tour, I learned it had been cancelled. I received an apology for not being informed and a refund. However, this was not good enough and amounted to unacceptable customer service.
The setting alone makes Montserrat Monastery worth a visit. But it was the mountain walk that made this tour memorable for me.
Llobregat Valley and River taken from Montserrat Mountain
Explore Catalunya promotes this small group trip as the “Best tour for Dali enthusiasts, and you’ll see hidden treasures off the beaten path”.
The summer schedule for this day trip (1st July – 14th September) does not include the coastal village of Cadaques, which is included in the winter tour schedule. Instead, the summer schedule takes you to Gala Dali’s Castle in Pubol. I was on the summer schedule day trip.
Near the border with France and about 136 kilometres north of Barcelona, Figueres is famous for being the birthplace of the artist Salvador Dali, an artist I have been a fan of for many decades. It is also home to his world-famous Theatre and Museum.
The Dali Theatre-Museum is a museum dedicated solely to the Spanish artist Salvador Dali, a genius of Surrealism. Built by Dali, it is considered the world’s largest surrealist object and is crowded with his artworks – paintings, sculptures, photographs, and jewellery.
Built by Salvador Dali – the Dali Theatre-Museum in Figueres.
Salvador Dali’s painting “Soft Self-Portrait with Grilled Bacon” 1941.
Dali is buried in a crypt beneath the dome of his Theatre-Museum.
The tour as I experienced it:
On arrival in Figueres, we headed to the world-famous Dali Theatre-Museum for a half-hour guided tour with our Explore Catalunya guide. Following the guided tour, we had one and a half hours of free time to explore the three floors of the Theatre-Museum for ourselves.
After leaving Figueres at 12.45 pm, we drove a short half-hour to the pretty, seaside medieval village of Sant Marti d’Empuries on the Costa Brava. Here, we were given two hours of free time for lunch, to explore, or to take a dip in the Mediterranean Sea.
I had a delicious salad at L’Escalapi Restaurant and Pizzeria – a Goat’s Cheese Salad with lettuce, tomatoes, goat’s cheese, walnuts, pine nuts, sultanas, and mustard and honey dressing. Spain does salads so well! I followed up my salad with Sugar and Lemon Crepes. The total cost for lunch was €20 (AU$33).
I walked off lunch by wandering around Sant Marti d’Empuries, admiring its medieval buildings and checking out the beach – a lovely spot to stay a while.
Sant Marti d’Empuries – the village
Sant Marti d’Empuries – the beach
Our last stop for the day was Gala Dali’s Castle in the tiny village of Pubol. The castle is the house Salvador Dali bought for his wife. Salvador didn’t live here until after Gala’s death and had to be invited by Gala to visit.
We were given a half-hour guided tour inside the castle and half an hour of free time to explore its gardens. According to our guide, Gala wanted to design the interior herself, but there is substantial Salvador Dali influence (artworks) inside the castle and its grounds. I particularly loved the Dali sculptures of long-legged elephants in the gardens.
There’s an elephant in the garden!
Gala is buried in the crypt designed by her husband in the castle’s basement.
Leaving Pubol at 5.00 pm, we arrived in Barcelona at 6.45 pm.
My tour review / final thoughts:
I have been a fan of Salvador Dali for many decades, and visiting his Theatre Museum was on my bucket list as soon as I started planning my trip to Spain. And I wasn’t disappointed! As I viewed his works over three floors, I got a glimpse into his unique world and learned so much about the evolution of his artistic styles.
Salvador Dali – the master of Surrealism
Dali decorated his Theatre-Museum in his unique style
Dali’s “Mae West Lips Sofa” 1937-1937
Dali’s Lithograph “Eternal Circumcism” 1968
My only criticism of the two hours allocated in the Dali Theatre-Museum is that it wasn’t long enough. Viewing artworks should be a relaxed experience, but I felt rushed as I wanted to take in as much as possible. It also didn’t give me time to view the jewellery Dali designed for his wife or to visit the museum shop, where I had hoped to buy a book on Salvador Dali.
Here’s some trivia: Dali designed the Spanish lollipop Chupa Chups logo. I never knew Chupa Chups were Spanish! Perhaps I need to attend more trivia nights because the question of who created the Chupa Chups logo is, apparently, frequently asked.
Explore Catalunya must ensure the full tour description reflects the actual tour itinerary. Their detailed summer schedule full tour description maintains that Platge de Castell would be our last stop after Gala Dali’s Castle before returning to Barcelona. However, we never visited Platge de Castell, “one of those rare hidden corners you can still find on the Costa Brava”. Instead, we visited Sant Marti d’Empuries on the Mediterranean coast before heading to Gala’s Castle. I can’t say I was disappointed as I knew nothing about Platge de Castell, and Sant Marti d’Empuries was an enchanting village that I thoroughly enjoyed exploring.
I booked this tour because I wanted to see as much as possible about Salvador Dali that was available at the time. As such, I was pleased Explore Catalunya included Gala Dali’s Castle in the tour. I must admit, I found Gala’s home uninteresting but did enjoy wandering through the castle’s grounds. The hour at Gala Dali’s Castle was more than sufficient time to see everything there was.
Explore Catalunya promotes this small group trip as being transported “to one of the most breathtakingly beautiful stretches of coastline in the whole of Europe – the Costa Brava”.
The Costa Brava is a coastal region of Catalonia on the Mediterranean Sea in northeastern Spain. It stretches from Blanes, a city 60 kilometres northeast of Barcelona, to the French border.
The tour as I experienced it:
About an hour’s drive from Barcelona, we arrived in Blanes – the gateway to Costa Brava. We didn’t stop in Blanes (a city of nearly 50,000 people) but drove straight to Cala Sant Francesc – a picturesque small cove with yellow sand and turquoise waters.
Alighting from the bus on the hill above Cala Sant Francesc, our guide gave us the option to spend our two hours’ free time at the beach or walking around the nearby Marimurtra Botanical Garden. I chose the Botanical Garden, described as one of the most beautiful gardens on the Mediterranean.
Marimurtra Botanical Garden
Marimurtra Botanical Garden is situated on the top of a cliff, providing stunning views of the picturesque Costa Brava with its white sand coves, crystal clear turquoise and aqua waters, and rugged coastline.
Costa Brava viewed from Marimurtra Botanical Garden.
Costa Brava’s coastline.
Leaving Cala Sant Francesc at 12.30 pm, we headed for lunch at a family-owned typical Mediterranean restaurant outside of Blanes. Our set menu consisted of a selection of traditional local dishes for starters with a glass of Sangria, a choice of several main courses, and a choice of Mel i Moto (a traditional Catalan dessert) or ice cream.
After a leisurely lunch, we drove for about half an hour to Tossa de Mar – a resort town home to the last preserved fortified town on the Costa Brava coast. Upon arrival, our guide took us on an orientation walk through the town and then given over an hour of free time.
I didn’t go for a swim in the waters of the very crowded beach or seek a coffee in the many cafes and restaurants packed with people. I opted instead to walk up the hill to the lighthouse and fortifications on the town’s highest point.
From the lighthouse and fortifications, I could see over the town, the many boats moored in Tossa de Mar’s bay, and a panoramic view of the Mediterranean Sea with its blue waters and rugged coastline.
Tossa de Mar – town, beach and fortifications
Tossa de Mar was our last stop for the day. An hour and a half drive saw us back in Barcelona.
My tour review / final thoughts:
According to Explore Catalunya, the picturesque Cala Sant Francesc is “one of the few remaining coves on the coast that have avoided the crowds of tourists and big commercial developments and are known only to locals”. All I can say is there must be a lot of locals because the cove’s beach was crowded. Explore Catalunya goes on to say we would have the beach to ourselves. I think they need to rewrite their tour description!
“Uncrowded” Cala Sant Francesc
I enjoyed wandering around the Marimurtra Botanical Garden and admiring its more than four thousand plant species. However, my highlight of the day trip was the hilltop Garden’s coastal views. The Garden provides the most spectacular views of Costa Brava’s beautiful small coves, crystal clear waters, and the rugged coastline of the Mediterranean Sea.
The Mediterranean Sea framed by Marimurtra Botanical Garden
Explore Catalunya’s detailed description for The Costa Brava tour states: “After leaving the beach and gardens, we will continue up to the old castle ruins for another amazing view of the coast.” Unfortunately, this did not occur, leaving me disappointed, as I would have loved to see more of Costa Brava’s coastline.
Lunch was delicious. I had a great salad with lettuce, brie cheese, walnuts, and fruits for my mains. Since I am not fond of ice cream, I had the Mel i Moto – a traditional Catalan dessert of Catalan cheese with honey. It was an interesting dessert but not unpleasant, and I could have had another bowl with more honey. Since arriving home, I have tried making this dessert with ricotta cheese, but it doesn’t taste the same (not as good).
My impression of Tossa de Mar is that of a very crowded tourist town, one I would typically avoid. However, I did enjoy the views from the lighthouse and fortifications of Costa Brava’s dramatic coastline.
Costa Brava’s rugged coastline at Tessa de Mar
Overall, the day trip to Costa Brava was long but enjoyable, and I recommend it.
Explore Catalunya promotes this day trip as a journey back to the medieval age, visiting the beautifully preserved villages of Besalu and Tavertet and enjoying free time in Rupit village.
The tour as I experienced it:
Leaving Barcelona at 8.30 am, we arrived in Besalu, our first medieval village, at about 10.00 am. Upon arrival, we (there were five guests on the tour) were given 20 minutes for a coffee and a bite to eat. We then headed across Besalu’s most significant feature – its 12th-century Romanesque bridge over the Fluvia River with its seven arches and a fortified gateway at its midpoint. Having crossed the bridge, we immediately entered Besalu’s medieval old town, where our Explore Catalunya driver-guide provided a 20-minute guided familiarisation walking tour around the Old Town.
The medieval town of Besalu and its Romanesque bridge.
After the guided walking tour, we had one hour to explore Besalu independently.
Founded in 878 AD, Besalu is an enchanting medieval town in the foothills of the southeastern section of the Pyrenees. It is one of Spain’s most beautiful and best-preserved medieval towns and was declared a historic and artistic site of national importance in 1966.
Today, Besalu has a population of 2,512 (2023) living there permanently.
Besalu is home to an 11th-century church and hospital, a 12th-century monastery, the remains of a medieval castle, and an ancient Jewish Quarter, where you will find the ruins of a medieval synagogue and a 12th-century Mikvka (Jewish ritual bathhouse).
Besalu’s old town is built entirely from sandstone, giving the village a golden, warm hue. Cafes fill the pretty squares, and narrow cobblestone streets wind through the village. As to be expected, souvenir shops line the streets. However, glancing into shops as I walked past them made me think they were of a better quality than most you see.
A narrow cobblestone street leads to a small square
10th-century Iglesia Sant Vicenc – the oldest church in Besalu
Besalu’s main square, Placa de la Llibertat, is in the centre of the old town and a great place to sit with a drink or ice cream and people-watch.
Cafes and restaurants line Besalu’s main square
I found the wooden chairs attached to the Old Town’s stone walls a thought-provoking addition to Besalu’s medieval architecture. However, I never got an answer about the reason for this art installation.
After about an hour’s drive from Besalu and up narrow, winding roads into the Pyrenees, we arrived at the medieval village of Rupit. A river, forest, waterfalls, and caves surround the village, which is 822 metres above sea level in a valley adjacent to the Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park.
Rupit was in stark contrast to Besalu. Instead of the pale stone buildings that give Besalu an air of warmth, all the houses in Rupit are built with basalt stone, giving the village a dark, forbidding appearance.
The medieval village of Rupert, with houses built in basalt
Rupit is smaller than Besalu, with about 160 permanent residents and just two main streets. The United Nations World Tourism Organisation (UNWTO) has described it as “one of the jewels of Catalonia in Spain.”
Rupit has received two awards in recent years:
UNWTO named it ‘Best Tourism Villages 2022’ for its “development of sustainable and responsible tourism.”
It has been awarded ‘European Charming Villages’ by the COSME Initiative of the European Union.
Before arriving in Rupit, our driver-guide gave us the option of free time to explore the village or to join him at a local restaurant for a set menu Catalonian lunch. I opted for lunch with three other guests and our driver-guide – a big mistake! Don’t get me wrong, the three-course lunch was delicious and a leisurely affair, but it took all our allocated two hours of free time in Rupit.
Two hours for lunch in Spain is the norm, but we had no time to explore the village. After several guests voiced their disappointment, our driver-guide gave us ten minutes to explore Rupit.
A street in Rupit
Rupit, where many streets are stairs
Our final stop before heading back to Barcelona was at a clifftop lookout in the tiny village of Tavertet, overlooking the valley below and the Guilleries mountain range. From this viewpoint, we could see the large Sau Reservoir, villages, and the odd lone house in the valley below.
View of the valley and mountain range from Tavertet lookout
My tour review / final thoughts:
Besalu:
Grabbing a takeaway coffee instead of sitting down for 20 minutes would have been a better option, allowing more time for the guided walk around Besalu.
I would have liked more time to explore Besalu at a relaxed pace rather than rushing from street to street to see as much as possible and take as many photos as possible.
According to the detailed description on Explore Catalunya’s website, the Medieval Villages tour includes “visit a restored mikveh (an old Jewish bath from the 12th century), and see the remains of a medieval synagogue”. Neither of these happened.
We were discouraged from seeing the old Jewish bath with an explanation that to do so was too hard. We would have to walk back over the bridge (at this point, we were inside the walled town) to the tourist office, get the key for the bath, and then take the key back to the tourist office once having seen the bath. There was also an admission fee involved.
I got the distinct impression that our guide just couldn’t be bothered taking us to visit the restored mikvah and ruins of the medieval synagogue. I found this extremely disappointing as I have a strong interest in Jewish history.
Castellfollit de la Roca:
On the drive to Rupit, our driver-guide pointed to Castellfollit de la Roca village, perched on the edge of a basalt precipice. I have seen several photos of Castellfollit de la Roca on Instagram and have always been in awe of its precarious location. I was okay with not exploring the village but felt incredibly disappointed that we drove straight past and didn’t pull off the road for a photo stop.
Rupit:
Opting to have lunch in a restaurant in Rupit was a missed opportunity to explore the village. It was a shame that our driver-guide failed to advise us that lunch in the restaurant would take up all our free time in Rupit. Had he done so, I would have grabbed something to eat at the bakery and used the two hours to explore the village and walk along the river to discover its pools and waterfalls.
Tavertet:
Explore Catalunya’s detailed description for this tour states that a visit is made to Tavertet village. “With your guide, visit this charming village, which was declared a National Property of Cultural Interest due to its 48 preserved houses from the 17th and 18th centuries. Learn interesting facts about this village as you admire the houses and the 11th-century Romanesque Church of Sant Cristofol.” However, we did not visit Tavertet; we merely drove straight through to the viewpoint on the cliff edge of the village for a panoramic view of the valley below. It was a shame we did not go into Tavertet, as I was looking forward to seeing the houses.
Explore Catalunya advertises that The Small Group Medieval Villages Day Trip from Barcelona lasts 11 hours. However, on this day, it was only ten hours. The additional hour would have allowed the advertised visit to Tavertet village or more time in Besalu.
Final thoughts:
Besalu is a delightful village worth visiting. However, I would have found a full day in Besalu to explore all its nooks and crannies of more value.
Ten minutes to explore Rupit and a short walk along one street to the restaurant was not enough time to make an informed comment on Rupit. However, what I did see had me wanting more.
I cannot comment on Tavertet, as we only drove quickly through the village to the lookout.
I enjoyed the Medieval Villages Day Trip, but I suspect the enjoyment was more about getting out of Barcelona for the day than the trip itself. In truth, I ended the day feeling disappointed and cheated.
Explore Catalunya promotes this day trip as “The only day tour from Barcelona that takes groups into the Pyrenees Mountains”.
There were five guests on this day trip (including myself) and our driver-guide, Steven. The tour’s destination was Vall de Nuria (Nuria’s Valley) in the Pyrenees via Vic and Queralbs.
The tour as I experienced it:
Our departure from Barcelona at 8.30 am had us arriving in Vic (pronounced Bic) about an hour later.
Vic is about 69 kilometres north of Barcelona on the Meder River. It is an ancient city, dating back to the Ausetan Iberians before Roman occupation in the 1st century AD, with an interesting and picturesque medieval Old Town.
On a 20-minute guided walking tour around the Old Town, we passed through several small pretty squares with cafes preparing for the day.
A bicycle adds a touch of romance to a courtyard cafe.
A pretty square makes an ideal spot for a cafe.
The guided walking tour ended in Cathedral Square at the Roman Catholic cathedral, Catedral de Sant Pere Apostol (Cathedral of Saint Peter the Apostle).
I found the interior of Vic’s Sant Pere Cathedral to be unlike anything I had seen previously. Huge, almost monochromatic canvases painted by Joseph Maria Sert representing the mystery of redemption cover the walls, making the interior dark and gloomy – an unexpected contrast to the cathedral’s light-coloured stone exterior. It wasn’t a place I wanted to linger! However, your reaction may be very different.
Vic’s Sant Pere Cathedral
Joseph Maria Sert painting inside Sant Pere Cathedral
Explore Catalunya’s visits to Vic coincide with traditional market days, which take place on Tuesdays and Saturdays in the arched main square (one of the biggest in Spain). Stalls of every sort filled the square.
Our half-hour of free time had me scouring the market stalls and nearby shops for something suitable for a takeaway lunch. Steven advised us that the food at Vall de Nuria’s café was not the best and recommended that we buy lunch in Vic.
From Vic, we drove up into the Pyrenees to the small village of Queralbs, which sits at an altitude of 1,236 metres. It is the last vehicle-accessible village on the way up to Vall de Nuria (Nuria’s Valley), a beautiful valley in the eastern Pyrenees. The final six kilometres from Queralbs to Vall de Nuria must be travelled by rack railway – a 20-minute journey to an altitude of 1,964 metres. But first, there was a guided walking tour through Queralbs.
Queralbs is an ancient village dating back to 833 AD. With its traditionally built stone houses perched on the side of the mountain, “this impossibly quaint, picture postcard beautiful hamlet is one of the most memorable parts of the day” (Explore Catalunya). I couldn’t agree more! The village was picture-perfect.
The village of Queralbs in the Pyrenees.
The traditional stone houses of Queralbs.
The walking tour ended at the Romanesque Esglesia de Sant Jaume (Church of Saint James) – one of Spain’s oldest surviving Romanesque churches.
Queralbs’ Romanesque St James Church.
Time to catch the rack railway train to Vall de Nuria!
Vall de Nuria is a glacial valley in the eastern Pyrenees, 120 kilometres from Barcelona, 1,964 metres above sea level, and surrounded by mountains nearly 3,000 metres high. It is remote and only accessible by rack railway. The ski resort and Nuria Lake dominate the valley, offering spectacular mountain landscapes, winter skiing, and summer hiking trails.
Vall de Nuria viewed from the top of the cable car run.
Vall de Nuria landscape with a view of the lake and resort.
With two hours to explore the valley before catching the train back down the mountain, I decided to hike one of the many trails in the hills around the valley. These trails range from easy to challenging.
Given my limited time, I chose an easy trail, the Way of the Crosses. I was told it would take 50 minutes to walk, but I knew it would take longer as I would keep stopping to take photos and admire the breathtaking views. The trail gets its name from the Christian Way of the Cross tradition, with twelve crosses along the way. I made the hike easier on myself by walking down the mountain rather than up. I did this by taking the cable car to the summit, bringing me to an altitude of 2,170 metres. Consequently, I passed the crosses in reverse – from twelve to one.
Way of the Crosses – Station 6.
Way of the Crosses – Station 5.
We missed our scheduled train back down the mountain to Queralbs because one couple failed to turn up at the meeting point even though Steven’s instructions were clear. No one knew where they were. I could tell Steven was worried, but he handled it calmly. Eventually, Steven decided we would catch the next train and leave the unreliable couple to fend for themselves. Surprise, surprise! When we arrived back at Queralbs Rack Railway Station (45 minutes late), our errant couple were waiting for us. They had decided to forego the meeting point and catch the train on their own.
From about halfway down the Stations of the Cross trail, the sky was getting blacker and blacker. By the time I reached the bottom, thunder was rolling around the mountains.
Vall de Nuria – a storm rolls inover the Pyrenees
Just as we were about to board our train back down the mountain, the heavens opened, and heavy rain and hail bucketed down. As we travelled the six kilometres from Vall de Nuria to Queralbs, the rain got heavier and heavier. Running from the train to the station building had us soaked to the skin, and I mean soaked. Water was pouring off me, off my hair and my clothes.
Our misfortunes did not end with a missing couple and soaking rain. Shortly after leaving Queralbs for our drive down the mountain, we came to a grinding halt. Traffic wasn’t going anywhere! The river beside the road was a raging torrent, so I thought maybe the road was flooded. After about 20-30 minutes, the male of our errant couple went to investigate what was happening up ahead – to make up for their “misunderstanding” about the meeting point. He told us there was a mudslide with rocks over the road and water pouring down the mountain. People were staring at this catastrophe, immobile. But our errant male (sorry, I will always think of him as such) started moving the rocks, and others helped. We were moving again! Meanwhile, it was sunny and 30 degrees Celsius in Barcelona!
My tour review / final thoughts:
In Vic, I struggled, wasting a lot of time trying to find suitable food for a takeaway lunch. I couldn’t even find a small supermarket in the streets around the main square. I found a bakery that looked promising, but the queue was too long to wait for service. I was conscious about arriving back at the meeting place on time. Had I known in advance about the recommendation to purchase a takeaway lunch, I would have brought food with me. In hindsight, I am sorry I didn’t risk the cafe at Vall de Nuria because the lentil salad I bought in Vic for lunch was pretty ordinary.
Explore Catalunya advertises the tour as 11 hours in duration. However, the tour was 11 hours only because we were late leaving Vall de Nuria back to Queralbs and encountered a mudslide driving down the mountain. I felt cheated because I would have loved more time on the mountain. The additional hour would have allowed me time to walk around the lake, visit the sanctuary, or have a cup of coffee.
I thoroughly enjoyed this day trip to the Pyrenees Mountains. What an adventure!
Don’t get me wrong; I have enjoyed all my day trips with Explore Catalunya, but this one seemed a bit more special. Perhaps it was the breathtaking landscape of the Pyrenees or just being in the mountains? Perhaps it was the enchanting village of Queralbs or the experience of the Rack Railway? Perhaps it was the adventure of getting soaking wet from a massive storm or driving through a mudslide over the road? Even though all the tours were very different and memorable, this day trip to the Pyrenees was special. It was not your ‘usual’ sightseeing tour and, for the most part, was the more relaxed.
A word on booking tours with Explore Catalunya:
I booked all my tours with Explore Catalunya in person, visiting their office in Barcelona at Carrer Palau de la Musica, 1. When booking in person, I received a €10,00 senior discount on each tour. However, when visiting Explore Catalunya’s website, I found nowhere that a senior discount can be applied when booking a tour.
As we conclude our journey through these five memorable day trips from Barcelona, I hope the experiences I shared have inspired you to venture beyond the city’s boundaries and explore the wonders just a short distance away.
Barcelona is a gateway to extraordinary adventures, allowing you to immerse yourself in captivating landscapes, delve into rich history, and be inspired by world-renowned art. The day trips I took from Barcelona left me with a lifetime of memories.
So, if you find yourself in Barcelona, let these day trips be your guide to exploring the richness that lies beyond the city’s borders, for Catalonia is a region of endless discovery. Allow yourself to be swept away by the allure of Montserrat, the coastal beauty of Costa Brava, the timeless appeal of medieval villages, the majesty of the Pyrenees, and the surreal world of Salvador Dali.
Thank you for joining me on this unforgettable journey through Catalonia’s diverse landscapes and cultural treasures. Until next time, here’s to the endless horizons of discovery and the timeless magic of travel!
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
Have you found this review of day trip tours from Barcelona a helpful resource? Which would be a day trip not to be missed? I love hearing from you. Please leave a comment below.
I look forward to reading and responding to your comments on which day trips from Barcelona you might include on your next holiday to Spain that this post has inspired.
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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
Postcards From Spain: Your Ultimate Iberian Bucket List for Creating Unforgettable Memories in Spain. Are you travelling to Spain? Are you looking for things to do, places to visit,…
Postcards From Spain: Your Ultimate Iberian Bucket List for Creating Unforgettable Memories in Spain.
Are you travelling to Spain? Are you looking for things to do, places to visit, sites to see in Spain? This post covers an extensive list of top places of interest and things to do in Spain to ensure your Spain bucket list is complete.
The post is not an exhaustive list of the incredible things you should not miss while in Spain. For example, the theatre, amphitheatre, and bridge are not the only Roman sites Merida has to interest the visitor. And there is a fabulous archaeological museum worth visiting.
I have presented my Spain bucket list as postcards (often multiple postcards per destination), with each postcard an authentic personal experience. From historic landmarks and hidden gems to cultural marvels and breathtaking landscapes, my Spain Bucket List of 47 Incredible Things You Should Not Miss is designed to be your go-to resource for planning the journey of a lifetime.
About My Spain Bucket List
I have compiled my Spain bucket list from my personal experiences of spending almost three consecutive months in Spain.
Before arriving in Spain, I spent one week in France on a barge cruise travelling on the Canal du Midi.
My first 18 days in Spain were on the Spanish Heritage Tour with Insight Vacations. This tour almost internally circumnavigated Spain, helping me to familiarise myself with the country, the people, and the culture.
For the remainder of my time in Spain, I travelled solo, basing myself in Seville (three weeks), Merida (one week), Barcelona (four weeks), and Girona (one week). North, south, east, and west, I covered much of Spain in almost three months while allowing time and space to immerse myself.
When I travel, I send digital postcards of the highlights of my travel experiences to family and friends, sharing what I have seen and done. Each entry in this post includes those postcard-worthy moments that vividly capture the essence of each unmissable experience.
Spain has many UNESCO World Heritage Sites, 49 to be precise. It wasn’t until I wrote this post that I realised how many of those sites I visited.
How This Post is Structured
Welcome to Spain, a land of rich history, diverse cultures, and stunning landscapes. Planning a trip to this captivating country can be overwhelming, given its wealth of experiences. Fear not, for I present you with the ultimate trip-planning resource – a comprehensive list of 47 unmissable things to see and do in Spain.
The links immediately below take you to many cities, towns, and villages (in alphabetical order) I visited in Spain. I have then made suggestions, based on my personal experience, of things to see and do within those cities, towns, and villages.
Join me as we travel through my Spain Bucket List postcard series.
My Spain Bucket List isn’t just a checklist but an invitation to plan what to do and see during your visit to Spain to make the best of your trip. So, join me as I unveil the 47 incredible things that make Spain a destination like no other. Let’s go!
BARCELONA
Barcelona is on the Mediterranean coast in the northeast of Spain and is the capital of Spain’s Catalonia region. It is known for its art and legendary architecture.
Basilica i Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Familia
Otherwise known as Sagrada Familia.
Barcelona and the Sagrada Familia are synonymous – you can’t have one without the other. It is the most-visited monument in Spain and is the only temple in the world still under construction. The Sagrada Familia has been under construction since 1882 and is estimated to be completed in 2026. However, according to my guide, this completion date is not likely to be met because of COVID-19. The building of Sagrada Familia relies heavily on tourist dollars, and none came in while the basilica was closed during the pandemic.
While I failed to see the beauty in the basilica’s exterior, Antoni Gaudi, the Sagrada Familia’s famous architect, has excelled himself with its breathtakingly beautiful interior. See my photo gallery.
The stunned-glass windows create a magical light show inside the basilica.
The Sagrada Familia interior.
The beautiful ceiling inside Sagrada Familia.
Christ on the cross hangs suspended from an umbrella over the main altar.
A note on Antoni Gaudi (because his architecture appears multiple times on this bucket list): Antoni Gaudi is Barcelona’s most famous architect and led the way for the Modernista movement, which is best known for its architectural style. UNESCO recognised Gaudi’s exceptional creativity and contribution to architecture development by placing seven properties he built on the World Heritage List in 1984. UNESCO has collectively listed these seven properties as the “Works of Gaudi”.
In 2003, Gaudi was on the path to sainthood when the Vatican opened the beautification process for him, the first step towards declaring his sainthood. It is now 2023, and Gaudi still needs to become a saint. The Catholic Church does not rush the beautification process. And there is a question mark over what miracle Gaudi caused!
Casa Batllo
The beautiful facade of Casa Batllo.
The building, now known as Casa Batllo, was constructed in 1877. When Joseph Batllo purchased it in 1903, he gave Antoni Gaudi total creative freedom to complete the entire remodelling of the house, which was completed in 1906.
The interior of this UNESCO World Heritage Site is a vision of wrought iron, wood, stained glass, ceramic tiles, and stone ornaments. The building is energy efficient with extensive use of natural light. Casa Batllo’s exterior was given a unique façade by Gaudi, where stone, glass, and ceramics form waves that mirror a calm sea, and the balconies are shell-shaped.
Located at number 43 on Passeig de Gracia, allow at least 1.5 hours to explore the house.
Casa Mila
Located at number 92 on Passeig de Gracia, Casa Mila was an apartment block completed in 1912, and Antoni Gaudi was the architect. It is popularly known as La Pedrera, meaning “stone quarry” in Catalan, because stone was the primary building material for the façade and balconies. A visit to Casa Mila includes (at additional cost) the apartment where the Mila family lived, still intact with antique furniture. The rooftop provides excellent views over Barcelona.
Casa Mila has two intriguing features:
There is barely a straight wall in the building, and
The rooftop is a sculpture park of chimneys that looks like something out of Star Wars. The Spanish poet Pere Gimferrer called it The Garden of Warriors.
“Warriors” march across Casa Mila’s rooftop.
Ciutadella Park
Go people-watching in Ciutadella Park, Barcelona’s largest landscaped park on Passeig de Picasso.
There is much to see and do in Ciutadella Park.
Ciutadella Park is the place to see and be seen, particularly on Sunday afternoons when people gather to play instruments, relax, take a punt on the boating lake, view the extravagant Cascada Monumental, a cascading waterfall fountain topped by a chariot-rider flanked by gryphons which Gaudi helped design, admire the sculptures scattered around the park, or visit the zoo.
Palau de la Musica Catalana
Palau de la Musica Catalana (Palace of Catalan Music) is a concert hall in the Sant Pere district of Barcelona, built between 1905 and 1908. The modernist architect Lluis Domenech i Montaner constructed Musica Catalana as a home for the Catalan Choral Society.
I went to see the Palau de la Musica Catalana because it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (1997), and I had seen some photos and thought, That’s pretty. “That’s pretty” was an understatement! I was in awe; it was breathtaking! Could there be anything this beautiful? The stained-glass skylight and windows flood the Concert Hall with natural light, the majestic organ has 3,700 pipes, and the 18 muses surrounding the stage, with 18 instruments from different parts of the world, represent music without frontiers.
Palau de la Musica Catalana’s main auditorium seats 1,970, with a further capacity of 600 seats in the Petit Palau (chamber music hall). Discover the secrets of this hidden gem with an in-house guided tour, which includes hearing a short piece played on the organ. Magical!
Check out my photos to see why you should visit this unique Concert Hall.
The interior of Palau de la Musica Catalina.
The iconic stained-glass skylight.
Sculpted muses with musical instruments form a backdrop for the stage.
The stained-glass windows and breathtakingly beautiful ceiling.
The architect was Antoni Gaudi’s teacher. I can see the influence on Gaudi.
There is a good café (Palau Café) in the Palau de la Musica Catalana foyer where you can eat inside or under the umbrellas outside.
Palau Guell (Guell Palace)
Palau Guell is a luxury mansion on Carrer Nou de la Rambla in the El Raval district of Barcelona. The famous architect Antoni Gaudi designed the palace’s seven floors for the industrial tycoon and Gaudi’s patron, Eusebi Guell, which he completed in 1890. All the palace rooms open onto the spectacular central hall, like an internal courtyard.
The building’s exterior is rather unremarkable, so the interior was a complete surprise. It was spectacular and certainly worth a visit! See for yourself.
Palau Guell was Gaudi’s first actual commission in Barcelona and has been on UNESCO’s World Heritage List since 1984.
The lobby Palau Guell.
The luxurious central hall.
The lobby’s beautiful staircase with its stained-glass window (also designed by Gaudi) leads up to the luxurious central hall that also serves as a source of light for the rooms leading off it over several floors. Gaudi liked to incorporate wood in his designs, and the wooden ceilings in Palau Guell are works of art.
Gaudi installed his signature chimneys on the roof in 1895. There are 20 chimneys in all, which also ventilate the house.
Antoni Gaudi’s signature chimneys on the roof of Palau Guell.
The audio guide was descriptive, informative, and easy to follow.
UNESCO placed Palau Guell on the World Heritage List in 1984. A definite must-see!
Park Guell
A guided tour of Park Guell, designed by the famous Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi, was an optional excursion in Barcelona offered by Insight Vacations on my recent tour with them – and one I couldn’t miss.
Visiting Park Guell was on my bucket list in Barcelona, and it didn’t disappoint. Gaudi’s distinctive, imaginative, and nonconforming architectural style fascinates me and appeals to my photographic eye. Gaudi decorated most of his structures with mosaics made from broken, colourful ceramic and glass pieces.
The 200-metre undulating tiles snake-like bench circles the terrace.
The former guard’s residence (left) and sales office (right) at Park Guell’s Olot Street entrance.
The whimsical multicoloured 2.4-metre-long dragon or salamander has become the symbol of Barcelona.
I didn’t know about Park Guell’s original intention as a luxury residential complex (gated community), but this plan was abandoned in 1914 as it was financially unsuccessful. It was opened to the public as a municipal park in 1926.
At more than 17 hectares, the park is one of the largest green spaces in Barcelona.
The Spanish Government declared Park Guell a Monument of Cultural Interest in 1969 in recognition of its historical, architectural, and artistic uniqueness. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984 and a Catalan National Cultural Interest site in 1993.
I finally learned how to pronounce ‘Guell’ – ‘Gway’, with the ‘G’ pronounced like the ‘g’ in ‘girl’.
Fun Facts:
Gaudi had a workman drop his pants and sit in the soft plaster for a perfect anatomical curve to ensure the stone bench was comfortable.
The former guard’s residence and sales office have been dubbed the Hansel and Gretel gingerbread houses by the children of Barcelona.
BESALU – Medieval Town on the Fluvia River
Founded in 878 AD, Besalu is an enchanting medieval town in the southeastern section of the Pyrenees. It is one of Spain’s best-preserved medieval towns and was declared a historic and artistic site of national importance in 1966.
Besalu is home to an 11th-century church and hospital, a 12th-century monastery, the remains of a medieval castle, and an ancient Jewish Quarter, where you will find the ruins of a medieval synagogue and a 12th-century Mikvka (Jewish ritual bathhouse). However, its most significant feature is its 12th-century Romanesque bridge over the Fluvia River with a gateway at its midpoint.
The medieval town of Besalu and its Romanesque bridge.
Keep an eye out for sculptures of chairs scattered around the old town.
BILBAO – The Many Faces of the Guggenheim Museum
Bilbao is an industrial port city in northern Spain and the biggest city in Basque Country. The opening of the Guggenheim Museum in 1997 saw the revitalisation of Bilbao as it transformed from a nondescript town to one of Spain’s bucket list destinations.
Front facade.
Side facade.
The spider sculpture in front of the Guggenheim Museum.
The Guggenheim Bilbao is a modern and contemporary art museum in Northern Spain’s Basque Country. But before the art, it is, first and foremost, the most fantastic piece of architecture. Wow-factor architecture! Do you agree?
The best views of the Guggenheim are from Salve Bridge, from where I took the above photos. The Salve Bridge is informally known as the Guggenheim Bridge because it merges into the Guggenheim Museum. I particularly liked the spider sculpture in front of the museum.
Take the funicular to the top of Mount Artxanda for great views of Bilbao and the Guggenheim Museum.
CANGAS DE ONIS – Roman Bridge of Cangas de Onis
Cangas de Onis is a picturesque town in Spain’s northwest province of Asturias.
The five-arched Roman Bridge of Cangas de Onis spanning the Sella River is not Roman. In fact, it is medieval, possibly dating from the late 13th century.
Roman Bridge of Cangas de Onis.
Roman or medieval, it still makes for an interesting bridge in a picturesque landscape. It is a graceful humpback bridge with a large, pointed central arch and is one of the best-known symbols of the Principality of Asturias.
From the centre of the arch hangs a reproduction of the famous Victory Cross – the symbol of the re-conquest of Spain from the Moors. The original Victory Cross is a work of precious metal dating to the start of the 10th century. You will find the Cross in Oviedo Cathedral.
CORDOBA
About 130 kilometres northeast of Seville, Cordoba was an important Roman city and a major Islamic centre in the Middle Ages. In Cordoba, three different cultures peacefully coexisted: Jews, Muslims, and Christians.
Roman Bridge of Cordoba
Cordoba’s Roman Bridge.
The stunning Roman Bridge of Cordoba was built across the Guadalquivir River in the first century BC. It has 16 arches supported by robust spurs with semi-cylindrical buttresses and is 247 metres long. It has undergone several reconstructions over the centuries, and today, only the 14th and 15th arches at the northern end are originally Roman. However, it remains a beautiful historical bridge. Since 2004, it has been a pedestrian-only bridge.
For those familiar with the TV series “Game of Thrones”, the Roman Bridge of Cordoba doubled as the Long Bridge of Volantis spanning the Rhoyne River in Season 5.
The Roman Bridge is part of the historic centre of Cordoba, which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984.
Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba (Mezquita-Catedral of Cordoba)
It is also known as the Great Mosque of Cordoba.
Walking into the mosque stopped me dead in my tracks. It was one of those “Oh my goodness” moments. The main hall is a forest of pillars supporting over 850 double-arched columns – a spectacular sight that is breathtakingly beautiful and unforgettable.
Check out my photo gallery of the eclectic interior of Cordoba’s Mosque-Cathedral:
The mosque leads to a chapel.
A cathedral within a mosque.
The Islamic double-arched columns.
A statue of Christ inside the Mosque-Cathedral.
The Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba is steeped in history and is a unique blend of cultures and architectural styles – Islam and Christianity.
Building commenced on the mosque in 785 and took over two centuries to complete. It was once one of the most important mosques in the Islamic Kingdom. When the Great Mosque was converted into a Christian Cathedral in 1236 after the conquest of Cordoba by Ferdinand III, he never demolished the mosque. The cathedral was built in the centre of the mosque.
The Mezquita was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984.
The Mosque-Cathedral is the Cathedral of Cordoba, and Muslim prayer is prohibited. However, historical beginnings linger. My guide told me that Catholic couples say they are marrying in the mosque, not the cathedral.
The Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba is one of the most unique buildings in the world, an absolute must-see when in Spain. It is easy to see why the people of Spain voted the Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba number one in their list of The Twelve Treasures of Spain.
COSTA BRAVA – Catalonia’s Coastline
The Costa Brava is a coastal region of Catalonia in northeastern Spain, stretching from the town of Blanes, 60 kilometres northeast of Barcelona, to the French border.
On a day trip from Barcelona, the picturesque Costa Brava was stunningly beautiful with its white sand coves, turquoise waters, and rugged coastline.
Costa Brava viewed from Marimurtra Botanical Garden.
Costa Brava’s coastline.
I took the above photos of the Costa Brava from the cliff-top Marimurtra Botanical Garden near Blanes.
FIGUERES – Dali Theatre-Museum
Near the border with France and about 136 kilometres north of Barcelona, Figueres is famous for being the birthplace of the artist Salvador Dali.
Built by Salvador Dali – the Dali Theatre-Museum in Figueres.
Salvador Dali’s painting “Soft Self-Portrait with Grilled Bacon” 1941.
The Dali Theatre-Museum in Figueres, Catalana, is a museum solely dedicated to the Spanish artist Salvador Dali – a genius of Surrealism. The museum, built by Dali, is considered the largest surrealist object in the world and is crowded with his artworks – paintings, sculptures, photographs, and jewellery.
I have been a fan of Salvador Dali for many decades, and visiting his theatre-museum was on my bucket list as soon as I started planning my trip to Spain. And I wasn’t disappointed! Over several hours wandering through the theatre-museum, I got a glimpse into his unique world.
Dali is buried in a crypt beneath the dome of his Figueres Theatre-Museum.
Here’s some trivia for you: Dali designed the Spanish lollipop Chupa Chups logo. I never knew Chupa Chups were Spanish! I may need to attend more trivia nights because who created the Chupa Chups logo is, apparently, a frequently asked trivia question.
GIRONA
Girona is a city located between the Pyrenees and Costa Brava – just a short train ride from Barcelona and about 60 kilometres south of the French border. Girona is famous for preserving the medieval old city, located at the confluence of the Ter, Onyar, Galligants, and Guell rivers.
For Game of Thrones fans, you can take a tour of all the filming locations in Girona.
Jewish Girona
Courtyard with the Star of David in the Museum of Jewish History.
Girona has a long history of Jewish habitation, dating back to at least the 9th century AD and is one of the best-preserved Jewish Quarters in Europe. A guided walking tour of Girona’s Jewish Quarter in the old town, known as El Call, takes you on a fabulous history and architectural trip as you make your way through a labyrinth of narrow streets.
The walking tour I joined concluded with a guided tour through the Museum of Jewish History.
Girona’s last remaining synagogue is home to the Museum of Jewish History. The synagogue was in use until 1492 when the Jews were expelled from Spain. The museum aims to preserve and spread the history of the Jewish life that developed in Spain and Girona.
Medieval Girona
A walk along Girona’s three kilometres of medieval walls is a walk along the path of history and provides fantastic panoramic views of Girona and the Old Town.
View of Girona’s Old Town from the medieval wall.
Initially built by the Romans, Girona’s medieval walls were rebuilt and extended in the Middle Ages. The walls surround the historic city centre and are some of the most complete walls in Spain. There are four access points to the walls, but I recommend waking the entire length for the ever-evolving views of this beautiful city. I accessed the wall at Placa Catalunya (Catalonia Square) and walked its length to the Jardins de la Francesa (French Gardens).
Girona’s medieval walls.
Painted Girona
Girona is a city in Spain’s northeastern Catalonia region, at the confluence of the Onyar, Ter, Galligants, and Guell Rivers. It’s known for its medieval architecture, walled Old Quarter, Barri Vell), Jewish Quarter (Call), and the Roman remains of the Forca Vella fortress.
The colourful houses on the banks of the Onyar River are perhaps the most recognised and photographed landmark of Girona.
The coloured houses of Girona reflected in the Onyar River.
In the late 20th century, a small group of artists and architects chose the colour palette for the houses’ facades. The best way to see them is from one of the bridges spanning the Onyar River. I took the photo above from Pont de Sant Agusti, my favourite reflection spot.
Initially built by the Romans, Girona’s medieval walls were rebuilt and extended in the Middle Ages. The walls surround the historic city centre and are some of the most complete walls in Spain. There are four access points to the walls, but I recommend waking the entire length for the ever-evolving views of this beautiful city. I accessed the wall at Placa Catalunya (Catalonia Square) and walked its length to the Jardins de la Francesa (French Gardens).
GRANADA
In the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in southern Spain’s Andalusia region, Granada is a culturally rich city with 800 years of history as a Muslim Kingdom. Granada’s architecture strongly reflects its Muslim heritage.
The Albaicin
Moorish and Andalusian architecture coexist in World Heritage Albaicin.
Walk through Granada’s ancient Arab Quarter that retains its medieval Moorish origins. Get lost in the Albaicin’s maze of narrow cobbled streets and small squares washed in white. Situated on the hill across from the Alhambra, Granada was founded in the Albaicin and was the capital of the Nasrid Kingdom in the 15th century.
The Albaicin was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its eclectic but harmonious mix of Moorish and traditional Andalusian architecture.
The Alhambra
The Alhambra is a massive palace and fortress complex located in Granada. Built by the Nasrid Dynasty – the last Muslims to rule in Spain – and commencing in 1238, the Alhambra is a beautiful testament to Islamic architecture and Moorish culture. The complex includes the Alcazaba, palaces, the Medina, gardens, cemetery, workshops, baths, etc. and is enclosed by a massive, fortified wall with towers.
Myrtle Courtyard in Comares Palace looking towards the Hall of Ambassadors.
Courtyard of the Lions in the sultan’s private dwellings.
Partal Gardens and the Tower of the Ladies.
View of the Alhambra from the Generalise on the Hill of the Sun.
The Alhambra is just one of ten UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Andalusia. However, many believe it to be the most spectacular.
Often referred to as the 8th wonder of the world, the Alhambra was on my must-see list of places to visit in Spain, and I wasn’t disappointed. I had a three-hour guided tour around Alhambra, but you could easily spend all day in the complex.
I crossed this one off my bucket list!
MADRID – Madrid Architecture
Madrid is the capital of Spain and sits almost exactly in the middle of the country. Most famous for the Prado Museum, it was Madrid’s eclectic architectural styles that endeared the city to me.
Cibeles Palace (Madrid’s City Hall)
Madrid has some of the most beautiful architecture in Spain, and Cibeles Palace (the former headquarters for the Spanish Post Office) deserves all the photographic and film attention it gets.
Now Madrid’s City Hall, the post office, I discovered when I had to post a parcel to Australia, can still be found in the building through a side entrance.
The best way to appreciate Madrid’s architecture is to walk the city.
MERIDA
A visit to Merida in Spain’s Extremadura region in southwest Spain is like a trip back to the Roman Empire. Founded in 25 BC (Colony of Augusta Emerita), this UNESCO World Heritage City is one of the best-preserved Roman sites in the world. The Roman theatre, amphitheatre, and bridge are unmissable stops along any tour of the ancient Roman city of Merida, and all within an easy walk of each other.
A Modern Play in an Ancient Setting
Merida’s Roman Theatre.
The Roman Theatre, with a seating capacity of about 5,000 spectators, was built from 16 to 15 BC and is Merida’s most spectacular Roman monument. I liked that, centuries later, it is still being used for its intended purpose.
I saw a musical play in the Roman Theatre on my second night in Merida. The play, which didn’t start until 11 pm because of the heat, was entirely in Spanish. I didn’t understand a word, but seeing the play in that ancient setting was one of those once-in-lifetime experiences and was magical.
A standing ovation for the actors of the play in Merida’s Roman Theatre.
Roman Bridge of Merida
Roman Bridge, Merida
Merida’s Roman Bridge over the Guadiana River was built in the first century BC. At a length of 792 metres and with 60 arches, it is one of the longest bridges in Spain and the longest surviving bridge from ancient times. Carrying road traffic for most of its life, it became a pedestrian-only bridge in 1991.
The Roman Bridge requires two visits – one during the daylight hours and the other at night after sunset. Why? At night, the bridge is lit in multiple colours and is best viewed from the path bordering the Guadiana River.
The Roman bridge lit up at night.
Roman Merida
Roman amphitheatre, Merida.
Opened in 8 BC, Merida’s Roman amphitheatre was the setting for popular gladiatorial contests and beast hunts. It has been determined that the arena could seat between 15,000 and 16,000 spectators from all social standings.
Roman Merida is much more than the amphitheatre, bridge, and theatre. Don’t miss the Temple of Diana, Triumphal Arch, Roman Forum, La Cassa del Mitreon, and the Archeological area of Moreria.
MONTSERRAT MONASTERY – Monastery and Hiking Experience
Montserrat Monastery is an 11th-century Benedictine monastery on Montserrat Mountain (meaning ‘serrated mountain’), 60 kilometres northwest of Barcelona. The monastery hangs onto the side of the mountain 725 metres above sea level.
Montserrat Monastery is perched on the side of the mountain.
I took this photo of Montserrat Monastery across the valley at the Cross of St Michael. This lookout was about one and a half hours into my very steep descent down Montserrat Mountain, and I still had about 20 minutes to go before I arrived back at the monastery.
To start my hike from the top of Montserrat Mountain, I rode the Funicular de Sant Joan from the monastery to the summit, about 300 metres above the monastery. I took the path to the left of the Funicular station that wound around and down the mountain, taking in spectacular views.
View from Montserrat (‘serrated’) Mountain.
While the hike down the mountain was not technically demanding (it’s a paved path nearly all the way), I did find the steep descent challenging. There were times when the decline was so steep my back was almost vertical to the path. The heat was another challenging factor. I’m sure I was on that mountain on its hottest day ever recorded!
A trip to Montserrat Monastery is about more than just a starting point for hiking around the mountain (and there are several you can do). The monastery is famous for the statue of the Black Madonna housed in the basilica and for one of the oldest boys’ choirs in Europe.
The Black Madonna inside Montserrat Basilica.
The setting alone makes Montserrat Monastery worth a visit. The hike added value!
PAMPLONA
Pamplona is best known for its legendary multiday festival, the Running of the Bulls (Feast of San Femin) in July.
A Monument to Culture
Agree with it or not, the annual running of the bulls is an integral part of Pamplona’s culture. The city even has a monument (Monumento al Encierro) dedicated to the traditional bull-running, freezing a moment in time of the race.
Pamplona’s monument to the running of the bulls.
For those who don’t know, the running of the bulls occurs during the festivities of San Fermin, where thousands of people try to outrun stampeding fighting bulls through the streets of Pamplona.
Ernest Hemingway in Pamplona
Statue of Ernest Hemingway in Cafe Irina.
Ernest Hemingway props up the bar in his favourite café in Pamplona – Café Iruna on Plaza del Castillo.
Hemingway had a love affair with Pamplona, visiting the city nine times, each time for the Festival of San Fermin and the running of the bulls.
Hemingway’s first novel, “The Sun Also Rises” (1926), is set in Spain, with Pamplona and Café Iruna heavily featured. The novel portrays American and British expats who travel along the Camino de Santiago from Paris to the Festival of San Fermin in Pamplona and watch the running of the bulls and the bullfights.
PUBOL – Gala Dali Castle
Pubol is a small village where Salvador Dali bought a castle for Gala, his wife. Her castle is now a museum. I recommend taking a guided tour.
There’s an elephant in the garden.
You will find four elephant sculptures by Salvador Dali in Gala Dali’s castle garden. The castle features other artworks by Salvador Dali, and Gala’s crypt is there.
I knew Dali was a painter but was unaware his artistic talents extended to sculpturing.
Interesting fact: Dali needed Gala’s written permission to visit her at the castle.
QUERALBS – Ancient Village in the Pyrenees
Queralbs is a small village in the Pyrenees with a population of about 80. It sits at an elevation of 1,236 metres above sea level. It is the last vehicle-accessible village on the way up to Vall de Nuria (Nuria’s Valley), a beautiful valley in the eastern Pyrenees. The final six kilometres from Queralbes to Vall de Nuria must be travelled by rack railway – a 20-minute journey to an altitude of 1,964 metres. But first, there was a guided walking tour through Queralbs.
Queralbs is an ancient village dating back to 833 AD. With its traditionally built stone houses perched on the side of the mountain, it is a lovely, picture-perfect village.
The village of Queralbs in the Pyrenees.
The traditional stone houses of Queralbs.
The walking tour ended at the Romanesque Church of Sant Jaume (Saint James).
Queralbs’ Romanesque St James Church.
Time to catch the rack railway train to Vall de Nuria!
RONDA – New Bridge
Ronda is a hilltop city in the Andalusian Province of Malaga. It sits dramatically above a deep gorge that separates the city in two. It is the home of modern bullfighting, but that wasn’t why I was there. I was in Ronda to see the New Bridge.
Ronda’s New Bridge spans El Tajo Gorge.
I have seen many photos of Ronda’s New Bridge on Instagram, been amazed, and wanted to see it myself. It was on my bucket list of sites to visit when in Spain.
The New Bridge (Puente Nuevo) spans the 98-metre-deep El Tajo Gorge, separating Ronda’s old town from its new town. The New Bridge is not new; it was completed in 1793 after 40 years of construction and with the loss of 50 lives.
It wasn’t easy to get photos of the bridge from the top. Unfortunately, my visit did not take me to the valley below New Bridge, where I would have been able to view the entire bridge.
SAN SEBASTIAN – Swim, Eat, Repeat
San Sebastian (called Donostia in Basque) is a resort town on the Bay of Biscay in northern Spain’s Basque Country.
There are no Roman ruins or Moorish architecture in San Sebastian, but you will find urban beaches, eclectic architecture, and a food lover’s paradise. San Sebastian has the second most Michelin stars per capita in the world.
San Sebastian’s famous La Concha Beach is said to be the most beautiful urban beach in Europe. The beach can be busy, but it offers magnificent views of the city and Old Town. Of San Sebastian’s two other main beaches, Ondarreta Beach is a family favourite, while Zurriota Beach is popular with young people and surfers.
San Sebastian’s La Concha Beach with city views.
Strolling along the city’s promenade is a must to admire the beaches and mansions that line this iconic walk.
Conde Nast Traveller’s 2023 Readers’ Choice Award voted San Sebastian the best city to visit in Europe.
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA – Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
Santiago de Compostela is the capital of Galacia, in the far northwest of Spain.
Arriving in Santiago de Compostela with Insight Vacations, I joined a small group on a guided walk through the city’s parks and old town, ending at the cathedral in Plaza del Obradoiro.
View of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela from Alameda Park.
The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela is the reputed burial place of Saint James the Great, one of the apostles of Jesus Christ. The cathedral fronts Plaza del Obradoiro and is the destination for pilgrims walking or cycling the Camino de Santiago (the Way of St James).
Pilgrims arrive in Plaza del Obradoiro after completing the Camino.
The Cathedral and the Camino are UNESCO World Heritage-listed – 1985 and 1993, respectively.
SEGOVIA
Segovia is in central Spain, about 90 kilometres north of Madrid. It is famous for its historic buildings and a great city to visit.
Alcazar of Segovia
The fairy tale Segovia Alcazar.
Continuing a UNESCO World Heritage theme in Segovia, the Alcazar of Segovia (Fortress of Segovia) is a medieval castle that was home to 22 kings.
Its exterior looks like something out of a fairy story. Some say the castle inspired the design of Cinderella’s Castle at Walt Disney World. Can you see the similarity?
Of all the Alcazars I visited in Spain, the Alcazar of Segovia was my favourite. The decorated ceilings were beautiful, and I loved the stained-glass windows.
Hall of Horses in the Old Royal Residence.
Stained-glass window in the Throne Room.
The Gallery Room.
The Hall of Monarchs.
Cathedral of Segovia
Segovia Cathedral.
UNESCO World Heritage-listed in 1985, Segovia Cathedral was the last Gothic cathedral built in Spain.
Construction on the cathedral began in 1525, but it wasn’t consecrated until 1768. Sitting on Segovia’s highest point in Plaza Major (the city’s main square), the Cathedral of Segovia is an imposing building.
I couldn’t enter the cathedral because the Corpus Christi service was underway.
Roman Aqueduct
Segovia Roman Aqueduct.
The Aqueduct of Segovia is a Roman aqueduct built around the first century AD to channel water from springs in the mountains 17 kilometres away to the city’s fountains, public baths, and private houses. Said to be the world’s best-preserved Roman aqueduct, it was in use until 1973.
Twenty thousand four hundred stone blocks were used to construct Segovia’s Aqueduct with no mortar or cement between them. The highest point of the aqueduct is on Plaza del Azoguejo, which stands over 28 metres high, with a total of 167 arches.
This masterpiece of engineering was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985.
SEVILLE
Seville is the capital of Andalusia and the former capital of Muslim Spain. It is a charming city that lacks the crowds of Barcelona and Madrid. Seville is a city of large open spaces, beautiful architecture, and Moorish influences. It is home to the biggest Gothic cathedral in the world, has the largest historic centre in Europe, and is famous for its flamenco dancing. It is hard not to fall in love with Seville when its people evidently take so much pride in their city.
Jardines de Murillo
Exploring the old Jewish Quarter on my own in Seville’s Old Town, I came across the pretty, landscaped, well-maintained urban Jardines de Murillo (Murillo Gardens). Its ceramic tile-covered benches provide welcome spots to relax from the heat under the shade of enormous fig trees.
Jardines de Murillo in Seville’s Jewish Quarter.
Jardines de Murillo (Murillo Gardens).
The gardens border the external walls of the Real Alcazar. The gardens are filled with fountains, children’s play equipment, and a monument to Christopher Columbus.
Jardines de Murillo was my favourite garden in Seville. Its intimate atmosphere saw me returning several times. Never crowded, I would take a book to read while eating a sandwich or sit to gather my energy to continue exploring Seville.
Plaza de Espana
Iconic Plaza de Espana, Seville
The semicircular Plaza de Espana (Spain Square) in Maria Luisa Park blends Renaissance and Moorish-inspired architectural styles. It was built specifically for the 1929 Ibero-American Expo, which aimed to improve Spain’s relations with its former Latin American colonies and make symbolic peace.
Plaza de Espana is a cultural icon, Instagramable, and touted by all the guidebooks as a must-see. So early one morning, on a cooler day in Seville (only 39 degrees Celsius), I played tourist and walked to the plaza.
Along the base of the building, there are 48 benches representing each of Spain’s provinces decorated with colourful ceramic tiles depicting significant historical events. Expect to find visitors and nationals alike taking photos of themselves sitting on the bench of their province or the province of their heritage. Not being of Spanish parentage, I took photos of the benches of the places I had visited.
Plaza de Espana – The tiled bench representing Barcelona.
There are four bridges over the mini canal in front of the plaza. These represent the ancient kingdoms of Spain: Castile, Leon, Navarre, and Aragon.
I enjoyed my few hours at Plaza de Espana and even saw an impromptu flamenco show on the building steps.
Don’t leave Maria Luisa Park without a stroll through its tropical gardens.
Maria Luisa Park.
Real Alcazar (Royal Alcazar of Seville)
The Alcazar of Seville is a thousand years of art and history, combining five periods: Muslim, Gothic, Mudejar, Renaissance, and Romantic.
The Courtyard of the Maidens in Real Alcazar.
Tilework in the Vault Room.
The Ambassador’s Hall.
The Moors greatly influenced southern Spain, and Real Alcazar is another example of beautiful Islamic architecture. Built in the tenth century as government premises, it became a Royal Residence in 1248 when Ferdinand lll moved into it. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Real Alcazar is the oldest Royal Palace still in use today and is used by the King of Spain and his family when in Seville.
The Alcazar’s formal gardens are worth a wander through but don’t eat at the café (unappetising fast food).
One of the many fountains in the Alcazar’s historic gardens.
Seville’s Real Alcazar featured as a location in the Game of Thrones television series.
Seville Cathedral – The Tomb of the Great Navigator
The tomb of Christopher Columbus in Seville Cathedral.
Although probably Italian by birth, Christopher Columbus (known in Spain as Cristobal Colon) completed four voyages across the Atlantic Ocean sponsored by the Spanish monarchy.
His tomb in the Cathedral of Seville is held aloft by four figures representing the four kingdoms of Spain during Columbus’s life: Castile, Aragon, Navarre, and Leon.
Columbus’ body has been moved several times, and the remains in Seville Cathedral are in doubt. DNA testing in 2006 confirmed the body in Seville was either Christopher Columbus or his brother.
Seville Cathedral was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987.
Triana
Triana is a charming working-class neighbourhood in Seville on the west bank of the Guadalquivir River. Puente de Isabel ll (often called Triana Bridge) is the gateway to Triana from the city. Don’t expect spectacular sights but an authentic quarter with surprisingly few tourists.
Isabel ll Bridge viewed from Triana.
Traina is especially famous for:
The Azulejo tiles you see throughout Spain.
Being the birthplace of flamenco.
Azulejos are terracotta tiles covered with opaque glazing. They have been used in Spain since around the 13th century. You will see them everywhere, decorating walls (internal and external), fountains, pavements, and much more. Triana has some lovely shops where you can buy good quality Azulejo products to take home.
See an authentic flamenco show at Almoraima (Calle Pages del Corro, 70) – an intimate venue where the passion of the dance is tangible and visible.
Mercado de Triana (on your right as you leave the bridge) is a lively indoor market with fresh fruits, vegetables, meat (especially Iberian ham), herbs, and fish. You can grab lunch while in the Mercado.
Calle de San Jacinto is Trian’s pedestrian-only street. With its plethora of cafes, bars, and restaurants, you are spoilt for choices of somewhere to eat and people-watch.
Head to Calle de San Jacinto for lunch or dinner.
TOLEDO
While travelling with Insight Vacations through Spain, I opted for a day trip to Toledo, about 70 kilometres south of Madrid, the former capital of Spain.
The Mirador del Valle Lookout
Toledo panorama.
The panoramic view of Toledo from the Mirador del Valle Lookout was breathtaking and a great introduction to this ancient city that owes its rich heritage to the Jews, Muslims, and Christians who lived there in harmony. A city of three cultures, Toledo is a melting pot of Judaism, Christianity, and Islam with impressive monuments. The two large buildings on the city horizon in the photo above are the Cathedral of Toledo on the left and the Alcazar Fortress on the right.
Toledo’s historic centre was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986 as an outstanding museum city.
Toledo Cathedral
Toledo Cathedral’s main facade from the Plaza del Ayuntamiento.
The magnificent Toledo Cathedral was built on the site of a former mosque and took more than 250 years to complete. It is one of Spain’s most famous and important cathedrals, with several monarchs buried in it. The cathedral is dedicated to Saint Mary and features Mudejar architecture (pointed horseshoe arches and ribbed vaults). It is considered one of Spain’s best examples of High Gothic architecture.
The famous “Transparente”, the cathedral’s altarpiece, is seen by many as Spain’s most important Baroque masterpiece. Created in 1732 by the sculptor Narciso Tome and his four sons, the altarpiece is several stories high, with fantastic figures done in marble, bronze castings, stucco, and painting.
The Transparente – Toledo Cathedral’s altarpiece.
A section of The Transparente – Toledo Cathedral’s altarpiece.
Toledo Cathedral is a veritable art gallery with paintings by notable artists: El Greco, Caravaggio, Van Dick, Goya, and Bellini, to name a few. The Sacristy is a small art gallery with a beautiful ceiling fresco painted by Luca Giordana and El Greco’s “The Disrobing of Christ” (“El Expolio”, 1579), taking centre stage on the high altar. Don’t miss the portraits of the 12 apostles painted by El Greco in the cathedral’s Sacristy.
The beautiful ceiling fresco and El Greco’s painting “The Disrobing of Christ”.
The Cathedral of Toledo is home to more than 100 relics, including fragments of the crown of thorns and the breast milk of the Virgin Mary. None are on public view!
My visit to Toledo was memorable, but the city deserved longer than a day trip.
VALENCIA
Valencia is a hidden gem often overlooked by tourists. It is a city that embraces its past while acknowledging the future. It is also the home of paella (a rice dish originally from Valencia). Contrary to common belief, traditional paella is not made with seafood but is made with chicken or rabbit.
My tour with Insight Vacations included a paella cooking demonstration and tasting at la Cigrona in Valencia’s Old Town.
Futuristic Valencia
The City of Arts and Sciences (La Ciudad de y las Artes las Ciencias) is a leisure and cultural complex with its architecture taking Valencia into the 21st century. The complex includes the Science Museum, an IMAX Cinema and Planetarium, Europe’s largest aquarium, and the Palace of Arts.
The City of Arts and Sciences’ Palau de les Arts (Opera House)
The Hemisferic and Science Museum at the City of Arts and Sciences.
Valencia’s Old Town
Founded in 130 BC, Valencia has been home to Romans, Visigoths, and Muslims, giving it a rich history. Its Old Town is one of the largest in Europe and the heart of the city.
Walking around the Old Town is like travelling back to the Middle Ages. La Plaza del Ayuntamiento is the main square and the hub of activity. It is enclosed by beautiful historic buildings featuring Gothic architecture.
I particularly enjoyed escaping the crowds and walking around the Old Town’s residential streets.
A residential street in Valencia’s Old Town.
A half day exploring Valencia’s Old Town with Insight Vacations was not long enough. I want to explore more! Valencia, I will be back!
VALL DE NURIA – A Beautiful Valley in the Pyrenees Mountains
Taking the rack railway from Queralbs, travel the six kilometres to the resort in Vall de Nuria (Nuria Valley). The journey took 20 minutes, climbing from an altitude of 1,236 metres at Queralbs to 1,964 metres at Vall de Nuria.
Vall de Nuria is a valley in the eastern Pyrenees offering spectacular mountain landscapes, winter skiing, and summer hiking trails.
Vall de Nuria viewed from the top of the cable car run.
Vall de Nuria landscape with a view of the lake and resort.
With two hours to explore the valley before catching the train back down the mountain, I decided to hike one of the many trails in the hills around the valley. These trails range from easy to challenging.
Given my limited time, I chose an easy trail, the Way of the Crosses. I was told it would take 50 minutes to walk, but I knew it would take longer as I would constantly stop to take photos. The trail gets its name from the Christian Way of the Cross tradition, with twelve crosses along the way. I made the hike easier on myself by walking down the mountain rather than up. I did this by taking the cable car to the summit, bringing me to an altitude of 2,170 metres. Consequently, I passed the crosses in reverse – from twelve to one.
Way of the Crosses – Station 6.
Way of the Crosses – Station 5.
I journeyed to Vall De Nuria on a day trip with Explore Catalunya.
VIC – The Old Town
The city of Vic (pronounced Bic) is about 69 kilometres north of Barcelona on the Meder River. It is an ancient city, dating back to the Ausetan Iberians before Roman occupation in the 1st century AD, with an interesting and picturesque Old Town.
On a guided walking tour around the Old Town, we passed through several small pretty squares with cafes preparing for the day.
A bicycle adds a touch of romance to a courtyard cafe.
A pretty square makes an ideal spot for a cafe.
I found the interior of Vic’s Sant Pere Cathedral to be unlike anything I had seen previously. Huge, almost monochromatic canvases painted by Joseph Maria Sert cover the walls, making the interior dark and gloomy – an unexpected contrast to the cathedral’s exterior. It wasn’t a place I wanted to linger! However, your reaction may be very different.
Time your visit for market day, which takes place on Tuesdays and Saturdays, with stalls filling the main square.
WHITE VILLAGES OF ANDALUSIA
The name White Village comes from the uniform white colour of the village houses and buildings, covered in lime to keep them cool in the hottest months as the white reflects the sun’s rays.
I visited two White Villages in the province of Cadiz – Grazalema and Zahara de la Sierra.
Grazalema
Grazalema, White Village of Andalusia.
Grazalema, located in Sierra de Grazalema National Park, receives the highest rainfall of the entire Iberian Peninsula. However, on the day of my visit, the skies were clear blue. I had a delicious salad for lunch in Grazalema at Restaurant Cadiz el Chico – Ensalada Caprichosa (lettuce, cheese, nuts, mustard and quince jelly, yoghurt, and red berry coulis) (€12 / AU$19.74).
Grazalema is an attractive village with the tiny porches of its whitewashed houses spilling over with potted flowers.
Zahara de la Sierra
Zahara de la Sierra, White Village in Andalusia.
Zahara de la Sierra is also located in Sierra de Grazalema National Park and has been declared a Historic Site. Being situated on the slopes of the Sierra del Jaral forces the streets to be staggered at different levels. Luckily, the guided walking tour through the village started at the top of the village, and we walked down.
Grazalema and Zahara de la Sierra have been chosen by the Association of the Most Beautiful Villages in Spain as two of the four most beautiful villages in Cadiz Province.
Adios Espana.
THE TWELVE TREASURES OF SPAIN
The Twelve Treasures of Spain lists twelve sites of great historical and cultural value to the Kingdom of Spain. The sites were chosen via a poll by two Spanish broadcasting stations, and the results were announced on 31 December 2007.
Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba
Cave of Altamira (Cantabria)
Seville Cathedral
Alhambra (Granada)
Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar (Zaragoza)
Teide National Park (Tenerife, Canary Islands)
Roman Theatre (Merida)
Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias (City of Arts and Sciences, Valencia)
Sagrada Familia (Barcelona)
Beach of la Concha (San Sebastian)
Guggenheim Museum Bilbao
Spain is a country that seamlessly weaves together a rich history, vibrant culture, breathtaking landscapes, and unforgettable experiences. In wrapping up this extensive guide to the ultimate Spain bucket list, I hope to have ignited your wanderlust and provided invaluable insights to help you plan an unforgettable trip to Spain.
From the architectural masterpieces of Antoni Gaudi in Barcelona and the ancient wonders of the Alhambra and Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba to the natural beauty of the Pyrenees and the hidden gems tucked away in charming villages, this bucket list is not just a checklist but intended as a practical guide for planning your itinerary, offering something for every visitor. My 47 memorable postcards spanning the length and breadth of Spain are just a glimpse into the diverse and incredible things not to be missed when visiting the Iberian Peninsula.
Happy planning and even happier travels!
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
Have you been able to find this Spain Bucket List a helpful resource? I love hearing from you. Please feel free to leave a comment below.
I look forward to reading and responding to your comments on where and what you might include on your trip to Spain that this post has inspired.
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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
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Sassi di Matera: The Stone City of Italy and a UNESCO World Heritage Site Steeped in History and Charm. Welcome to the mesmerising world of Sassi di Matera, a…
Sassi di Matera: The Stone City of Italy and a UNESCO World Heritage Site Steeped in History and Charm.
Welcome to the mesmerising world of Sassi di Matera, a unique and ancient destination. Matera, a city in Italy’s southern region of Basilicata, is renowned for its extraordinary cave dwellings and rock-cut architecture, collectively known as the Sassi. These ancient settlements, carved into limestone cliffs, have earned the Sassi di Matera a place on UNESCO’s World Heritage List and have captivated visitors with their rich history, unique charm, and breathtaking landscapes.
In this travel blog post, I’ll take you on a visual journey through 15 stunning photos that capture the essence and allure of the Sassi di Matera. Each image tells a story, inviting you into a world where cave dwellings, narrow winding streets and alleyways, and rock-cut architecture create an otherworldly landscape.
Whether you’re a history buff, a culture enthusiast, or simply seeking a destination off the beaten path, Sassi di Matera offers an unforgettable experience. Let these photos inspire you to pack your bags and immerse yourself in the wonders of this timeless Italian gem.
Situated in the “instep” of Italy’s “boot”, Sassi di Matera (literal translation from Italian, “Stones of Matera”) were declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1993, while Matera was awarded the 2019 European Capital of Culture. However, Matera, particularly the Sassi, did not always deserve these honours. Not so many decades ago, Matera’s Sassi was a place of national humiliation dubbed the “Shame of Italy”.
The Sassi di Matera has two districts – Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano. They are ancient! – prehistoric troglodyte settlements where people have lived in cave dwellings since 7000 BC.
The Sassi have a colourful history that has seen them go from the earliest inhabited city in Italy to a place of national humiliation to Italy’s pride. This history, which is still visible today, makes Sassi di Matera a matchless tourist destination.
A brief history – from shame to honour
In his book Christ Stopped at Eboli (published in 1945), Carlo Levi put Sassi di Matera on the world map when he highlighted the poor living conditions. He painted a picture of abject poverty. Malaria, cholera and typhoid were rampant in the Sassi. Families and their animals were living together under the same roof in dwellings with no natural light or ventilation, no electricity, water or sewers, and there was a high rate of infant mortality.
The Sassi became an embarrassment to the Italian Government. So much so that in 1950, the Prime Minister declared a state of emergency and put plans in place to move the Sassi’s inhabitants out. By 1952, the Sassi were empty – abandoned through forced removal.
After sitting dormant for a few decades, the Sassi began to transform, starting in the 1970s with artists and hippies rediscovering Matera’s Sassi. This urban renewal and a younger generation expressing their desire to bring the caves back to life led the Italian Government to pass a law in 1986 to repopulate the Sassi, connecting water and electricity and subsidising restoration work to encourage the Sassi’s revival.
And the people did come – restoring caves as homes, hotels, restaurants and bars. But many are still uninhabitable.
Abandoned cave dwellings in Matera’s Sassi.
Not all the cave dwellings in the Sassi are inhabited.
Sassi di Matera’s revival was further cemented in 1993 when UNESCO listed it as a World Heritage Site for being “the most outstanding, intact example of a troglodyte settlement in the Mediterranean region” and being named 2019 European Capital of Culture.
Matera has reclaimed its dignity and credibility in the eyes of Italy and the world.
Discover Sassi di Matera
I travelled to Matera on a 17-day small group tour with Albatross Tours on their Italy, the Deep South & Sicily tour, staying two nights in the Sassi.
The Sassi are carved into the limestone cliffs of a deep ravine gouged out by the Gravina River. First viewed from across the ravine, the Sassi di Matera were like nothing I had seen before. I have visited Troglodyte caves in France and spent time in Cappadocia in Turkey. But the Sassi di Matera, with caves stacked on each other while clinging to the steep slope, was a stand-alone matchless sight. Then, creating a unique juxtaposition, the modern city of Matera overlooks the Sassi from its height at the top of the hill.
Sassi di Matera viewed from across the ravine.
The modern city of Matera sits on top of the ancient Sassi.
My first ‘taste’ of Sassi di Matera and what it must be like to live in the Sassi was my accommodation for two nights in the luxury Le Grotte della Civita – a cave hotel on the edge of the ravine in the most ancient Sassi area.
My hotel room – a restored cave in Le Grotte della Civita.
Le Grotte della Civita consists of 18 large ‘rooms’ with ensuites. All the rooms are individual caves that have been beautifully restored whilst retaining their original features. The furnishings were simple but tasteful, with much of the lighting provided by candles. The breakfast was served in a reclaimed cave that was once a church and was typical of southern Italy – consisting of various breads, cakes, pastries, meats, jams and cheeses. My stay at Le Grotte della Civita was truly memorable.
After a very comfortable night’s sleep and a delicious breakfast, I joined the walking tour in the morning with a local guide. Walking tours are a great way to get acquainted with a city and learn its history. The walking tour of Sassi di Matera was a fascinating history lesson while being introduced to significant sites. The tour included visiting a cave dwelling to see how families lived in their stone houses and viewing one of the ancient Rupestrian Churches with its biblical frescoes on the cave walls dating back to the Middle Ages.
By the end of the tour, I felt prepared to spend the afternoon and evening on my own, exploring and discovering the labyrinth that is Sassi di Matera. I was in my element, walking around the narrow streets and alleyways, talking to the locals, checking out their cafes, and having all the time I wanted to take photos. A word of advice: you will need comfortable shoes to walk around the Sassi as there are many steep steps to negotiate, given the Sassi are built on the side of a ravine.
There are lots of steps in Sassi di Matera.
Matera has 180 churches, 40 of which are in the Sassi, including the Cathedral and the rock-cut Church of Santa Maria di Idris.
The Church of Santa di Idris.
My favourite church was the Church of Purgatory, constructed as a place for people to pray for the souls trapped in limbo between heaven and hell. Completed in 1747, its recurring and only theme is that of death. The baroque façade of the church and its doors are covered with carvings of skulls, skeletons, crossbones, and other death-related decor. While a church focusing on death might seem a bit Grim Reaper-ish, it was fashionable at the time of construction, as death was not seen as the end but as the beginning of a new life.
Skulls and skeletons on the facade of the Church of Purgatory.
The Church go Purgatory’s carved wooden door.
Exploring the Sassi di Matera
While the Sassi may look like masses of houses, the house-like facades are only that, as the ‘houses’ are dug well into the rock, forming the cave dwellings Matera is famous for.
In the Sassi di Matera, caves look like houses.
Sassi di Matera – a mass of cave dwellings that look like houses.
Houses in the Sassi are built on top of other houses, where many of the streets are built on the roofs of houses, and floors are ceilings of houses below.
Sassi di Matera – roofs are streets, and floors are ceilings.
You would be forgiven for thinking the Sassi are a place of shadow and crampedness. But not so. The squares in the Sassi are sun-drenched open spaces flanked by cafes, shops, churches, and restaurants – great for people-watching.
Wander the Sassi di Matera.
View of the Sassi through a doorway.
World Heritage Listed Sassi di Matera.
Historical and Cultural Timeline:
2019: Matera is the European Capital of Culture.
2014: Tourism starts to take off. This was most likely due to Matera being named the 2019 European Capital of Culture, and Matera began preparations for a year of events highlighting culture and the arts.
1993: UNESCO lists Sassi di Matera as a World Heritage Site.
1986: Italian law changes and people are encouraged to return to the Sassi.
1952: Abandonment of the Sassi through the Italian Government’s forced removal of its inhabitants.
Prehistory: (approximately 9,000 years ago) People first inhabited the Sassi.
Fun facts
Several Directors have used Sassi di Matera as a film location for their movies:
Mel Gibson’s controversial movie, The Passion of the Christ, 2004;
Pier Paolo Pasolini’s The Gospel According to St Matthew, 1964; and
King David was directed by Bruce Beresford and starred Richard Gere in 1985.
It would seem Matera’s Sassi makes for a great ancient Jerusalem.
The 2021 James Bond movie No Time to Die also used Sassi di Matera as a film location.
Sassi di Matera is not just a destination; it’s an immersive journey through time, offering a unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty that promises to leave a lasting impression on anyone fortunate enough to explore its enchanting streets.
The Sassi beckons, inviting you to witness a living backdrop as you explore a world where tradition meets innovation. The 15 photos you’ve seen here in my blog post are mere snapshots of the unforgettable travel experience that awaits you in person. Dare to wander off the beaten path!
Editor’s Note: I originally published this blog post in March 2019 and have updated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
Have I aroused your curiosity about Sassi di Matera? Are you inspired to visit Italy’s unique Stone City, a valuable UNESCO World Heritage Site? I love hearing from you. Join the conversation and leave a comment below.
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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
Embark on an Unforgettable Journey on France’s Canal du Midi and Experience Extraordinary Engineering Feats That Are Works of Art. What do you know about the Canal du Midi? …
Embark on an Unforgettable Journey on France’s Canal du Midi and Experience Extraordinary Engineering Feats That Are Works of Art.
What do you know about the Canal du Midi?
Set against the picturesque landscape of southern France, the Canal du Midi is a serene waterway and a testament to human creativity and engineering brilliance. Prepare to be awe-struck by three engineering marvels that have stood the test of time and captivated all who encounter them.
In this travel blog post, I invite you to join me on a journey uncovering the stories behind the three remarkable wonders of human ingenuity I discovered when sailing from Marseillan to Salleles d’Aude on a hotel barge on the historic Canal du Midi: the masterfully constructed Orb Aqueduct that defies gravity, the intricately designed seven-step Fonserannes Locks that challenge navigation skills, and the mystical Malpas Tunnel that channels the canal through a hill.
I am not an engineering expert, but crossing the Orb Aqueduct, climbing the Fonserannes Locks, and traversing the Malpas Tunnel were extraordinary experiences and unforgettable highlights of my barge cruise on the Canal du Midi with European Waterways. They have left a lasting impression on me that I want to share with you, and I hope you get to experience them for yourself.
The Canal du Midi
Cruising the Canal du Midi
The Canal du Midi in southern France was constructed between 1666 and 1681 by the 17th-century canal engineer Pierre-Paul Riquet. It is considered one of the most significant construction works of the 17th century and is one of the oldest canals still in use in Europe. The Canal du Midi was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.
The Canal du Midi runs for 240 kilometres from the Etang de Thau, a sheltered lagoon behind the Mediterranean port of Sete, to Toulouse, where it joins the Canal de Garonne – connecting the Mediterranean Sea to the Atlantic Ocean. The Etang de Thau at Marseillan was the starting point for my barge cruise on the Canal du Midi with European Waterways.
I cruised the Canal du Midi on European Waterway’s first-class, eight-passenger hotel barge, the Adjodi. The section of the Canal du Midi we cruised included three impressive 17th-century engineering feats – the Orb Aqueduct, Fonserannes Locks, and Malpas Tunnel. But you don’t need to be an engineer to appreciate, enjoy, and be thrilled by these wonders of the Canal du Midi.
The sun sets on another day on the Cana du Midi.
Orb Aqueduct
Our barge navigates the Canal du Midi along the Orb Aqueduct at Beziers.
A photo of a barge navigating the Orb Aqueduct (Pont-Canal de l’Orbat) at Beziers in southern France has always been my ‘vision’ of the Canal du Midi and one of the reasons I wanted to do a barge cruise on the canal. No other image of the Canal du Midi was more iconic than the Orb Aqueduct.
The Orb Aqueduct is a one-lane bridge carrying the Canal du Midi over the Orb River. At 240 metres long, 28 metres wide, 12 metres high, and with seven arches, the Orb Aqueduct is one of the largest aqueducts in France and the largest on the Canal du Midi. Prior to the opening of the Orb Aqueduct in 1858, the Canal du Midi traversed a short, treacherous section of the Orb River that would sink boats or leave them stranded for weeks due to its unpredictable flow. Building the aqueduct allowed boats to bypass the dangerous Orb River safely.
The aqueduct carries the canal in a masonry trough sealed with a layer of concrete. The concrete seal was replaced in 1951; otherwise, the original structure still exists. You can walk the length of Orb Aqueduct as there is a towpath on both sides.
The Orb Aqueduct was classified as a National Historical Monument in 1962 and was listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1996.
Six of the Orb Aqueduct’s seven arches.
The Orb Aqueduct carries the Canal du Midi over the River Orb.
Fonserannes Locks
The seven-rise lock staircase or Fonserannes.
Locks are an integral part of any barge cruise, and on the Canal du Midi, I got my gratifying fill of them. However, none would raise my excitement or sense of adventure as much as the seven-rise lock staircase of Fonserannes (also known as the Fonserannes Locks or the Fonserannes Staircase) near the town of Beziers.
When the Canal du Midi was constructed in the 17th century, Pierre-Paul Riquet had to overcome the problem of crossing the Orb River, which was 48 metres higher than the natural course of the canal waterway. The answer was the Fonserannes Lock Staircase, a staggering feat of engineering and very impressive, even to my untrained eye. It is one of the features that led to the Canal du Midi being declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.
Fonserannes Lock Staircase is a 312-metre-long water staircase, allowing boats and barges to negotiate a 25-metre gradient by passing through seven oval-shaped lock chambers and eight gates. There is an eighth chamber, but it is no longer in use. Boats are raised (or lowered) 21.5 metres over a distance of 300 metres, with the deepest rise (or drop) over six metres.
A boat climbs the Fonserannes Staircase Locks.
We approached the Fonserannes seven-rise lock staircase from the Orb Aqueduct and travelled up the lock staircase. Our barge captain took over 30 minutes to negotiate the boat’s climb through the seven chambers. The force and speed at which the water rushes into the chamber when a gate opens is astounding.
Our barge navigates through Fonserannes Locks.
One lock chamber must have been particularly challenging because going under the bridge that spanned the gate dislodged the height indicator pole (a red flag on a pole on the boat’s bow). As I understand it, the lockkeeper allowed too much water to enter the lock, making the water in the chamber higher than it should have been. Our captain had to duck very low to ensure his head didn’t connect with the bridge.
A low bridge knocked over the red-flagged height indicator pole.
We stopped for the night at the top of Fonserannes Staircase Locks. So, I took the opportunity to walk the towpath back to the Orb Aqueduct, an easy, flat 20-minute walk.
Malpas Tunnel
Our barge approaches the Malpas Tunnel on the Canal du Midi.
The Malpas Tunnel, between Bezier and Capstang on the Canal du Midi, was the first tunnel ever dug for a canal. The tunnel was excavated in 1679 in secret by the canal’s chief engineer, Pierre-Paul Riquet, as the Prime Minister had stopped the plan to dig a canal tunnel through Enserune Hill because initial excavations revealed the tunnel was liable to collapse due to the hill being brittle sandstone. Over 300 years later, the Malpas Tunnel is still navigable! And there is now even a railway tunnel ten metres below the canal tunnel, built nearly 200 years later!
Local folklore has it that after the completion of the Malpas Tunnel, one of the workers built a small nook inside the tunnel’s ceiling and lived there as a hermit. When barges passed through the tunnel, the crew threw bread into the opening for the hermit. Barge crews still sometimes throw a piece of bread into the opening of the nook as a “gift for the hermit”.
Our captain did not throw bread into the opening in the ceiling, but he did play the finale of Tchaikovsky’s 1812 Overture (at least, I think that was what it was). I did not fathom the relevance of this, but the music sounded incredible and very dramatic as it echoed off the tunnel walls.
The hermit nook in the ceiling of Malpas Tunnel.
Canal de Jonction
I want to leave you with my favourite photo I took on the Canal du Midi barge cruise. It is not the Canal du Midi per se but taken when we stopped for the night at Salleles d’Aude on the Canal de Jonction. The Canal de Jonction is a shortcut from the Canal du Midi to the Canal de la Robine. It was early morning, the water was milk-pond still, and the reflections of our barge and the trees lining the canal created an unforgettable image.
The Adjodi reflected in the still waters at Salleles d’Aude on the Canal de Jonction.
Reflecting on my journey along the Canal du Midi, I am in awe of the ingenuity and determination that brought these three remarkable engineering marvels to life. The Orb Aqueduct is a testament to the courage of human vision, carrying the canal over the valley below. The Fonserannes Locks remind us of our ability to conquer and harness the raw forces of nature. And then there is the Malpas Tunnel, a hidden passage shrouded in history and mystery carved through solid rock.
As you traverse the tranquil waters of the Canal du Midi, it’s impossible not to be humbled by the visionaries who conceived these extraordinary structures. Their dedication to crafting a passage that conquered natural obstacles while blending with the landscape continues to inspire admiration centuries later.
Whether you’re a history buff, an engineering enthusiast, or a traveller searching for unique experiences, the Canal du Midi’s engineering marvels promise an unforgettable journey.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
Carcassonne Citadel is a medieval treasure in Southern France. It is the most complete medieval town in existence today and is worth two to three days to explore.
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Carcassonne Citadel is a Medieval Treasure in Southern France. Dear Ryan, One of the highlights of my Canal du Midi cruise with European Waterways was a morning in the…
Carcassonne Citadel is a Medieval Treasure in Southern France.
Carcassonne Citadel entrance gate
Dear Ryan,
One of the highlights of my Canal du Midi cruise with European Waterways was a morning in the Citadel of Carcassonne. The barge captain was surprised I had not heard of Carcassonne Citadel as it is one of France’s premier tourist attractions. But, as you know, I have only been to France once before, and that was to a different region.
So, here is what I learned about Carcassonne Citadel…
It is the most complete medieval fortified town in existence today and the largest in Europe.
It has about 2,500 years of history and was occupied by the Romans, Visigoths, and Crusaders at different periods.
Three kilometres of double walls interspersed with 52 watchtowers surround the citadel.
It is a lived-in citadel with houses, schools, shops, restaurants, hotels, basilica, and museums.
The citadel is open 24/7 and is free to enter. However, there is an admission fee to visit Carcassonne Castle and its ramparts.
Carcassonne Citadel was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.
European Waterways took us on a two-hour guided walking tour around the walls, through the citadel, and into the Basilica Saint Nazaire. We were given admission tickets for the castle and ramparts, but I didn’t see them. After going to the toilet and watching the visual display at the entrance, I had to leave the castle as it was time to meet our guide to leave Carcassonne.
Basilica Saint Nazaire
Our visit to Carcassonne Citadel was too rushed and deserved so much more time. I could have spent 2-3 days there instead of the few hours allocated to the visit.
I would stay within the citadel. From my view of its exterior, the Hotel de la Cite next to the basilica appealed to me. That it is a 5-star hotel probably added to that appeal, even if it is beyond my budget.
Exploring the castle beyond the toilet block would be a bonus. And I am told the views from the ramparts are stunning. But I would want to walk them to see for myself.
I would like to eat at the many restaurants, buy lots of nougat, and shop until I drop. The clothes and leather goods shops were of particular interest.
Three days would give me time to visit some of the museums within the citadel and Carcassonne city, for example, the School Museum, the Museum of the Inquisition, and the Museum of Fine Arts. Perhaps I need four days!
Did you know there is a Carcassonne board game? Apparently, it is one of the most beloved and well-known board games in the world. I have never heard of it. Just something else to add to my ignorance about Carcassonne!
Next stop, Spain.
Love,
Joanna
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
Prepare to be awe-struck by three extraordinary engineering marvels on the Canal du Midi that are works of art – the Orb Aqueduct, Fonserannes Staircase Locks, and Malpas Tunnel.
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How to Spend 5 Days in Venice, Italy – a solo traveller’s perfect self-guided walking itinerary Join me on a leisurely journey around Venice – on a ‘walkabout’. Over four…
How to Spend 5 Days in Venice, Italy – a solo traveller’s perfect self-guided walking itinerary
Join me on a leisurely journey around Venice – on a ‘walkabout’.
Over four days, my self-guided walk led me to some incredible experiences as I strolled through and discovered five of Central Venice’s six districts. On the fifth day, I went island hopping to Murano and Burano.
It is possible not to get lost in Venice if you allow yourself just to wander; with the very occasional “Where am I?” moments. The secret being that Venice has got wise, and everywhere you go there are strategically placed signs pointing the way to St Mark’s Square or Rialto Bridge, both major landmarks. However, I have to confess that I did pull out the map once – in San Polo. I had wandered down so many narrow alleyways that when I entered a tiny courtyard, I didn’t even know which direction I was facing.
Venice is flat. The best way to see it is just to walk. With my camera slung over my shoulder, my favourite walking shoes on, and my trusty guide book in hand, I let my feet and curiosity find the direction.
The starting point for each day’s walk was my hotel, Hotel da Bruno, in the San Marco district. Located at Sestiere di Castello 5726/A – 30122, Hotel da Bruno is ideally located in Venice’s historic centre. For my review on Hotel da Bruno, refer to the section, ‘Where I stayed’ at the end of this post.
As I have taken a different district each day to explore, you don’t have to follow my self-guided walking itinerary per se. This post is a guide, explore what you want, mix it up, or add to the discoveries.
This guide is an updated version of the post, A Venetian Walkabout. Originally Published: January 23, 2018. Updated: August 5, 2020; providing more information and resources.
Let’s walk together. Or step out on your very own walking itinerary.
On my first day in Venice, I wandered down alleys, crossed some of Venice’s 400 unique bridges and watched the waters of the canals lap the doorsteps of antique buildings in various states of glorious decay. Everywhere I turned I saw evidence of Venice’s unstable foundations, with lopsided arches and leaning church bell towers. So much to photograph. I have fallen in love with Venice.
Over a coffee in Campo Santa Maria Formosa, I saw canal barges loading the linen from hotels and learned from the waiter it is taken off the islands to the mainland for laundering so as not to pollute the canals.
Taking in my surroundings from one bridge, I witnessed a gondola traffic jam and was thankful I was not playing tourist.
Gondola traffic jam
Contarini del Bovolo Palace
Venturing down a very narrow alley near Campo Manin, requiring me to maneuver through crab-like, I came across an unusual building with the most elegant external multi-arch spiral staircase – the gothic Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. The staircase, with its ascending rows of round-headed arches, is the only one of its kind found in Venice today. Closed at the time of my discovery, I let my camera do the sightseeing.
Stumbling across Piazza San Marco (St Mark’s Square) for the third time within half an hour, I decided it is time to experience a coffee at the iconic Café Florian in St Mark’s Square. Established in 1720, Café Florian is the oldest café in Venice and claims to be the oldest in the world. At the cost of €15 for my coffee, I knew it was an experience I would not be repeating.
As I wandered around Basilica di San Marco (St Mark’s Cathedral), marvelling at the brilliant mosaics, I wondered at the story of the two merchants from Alexandria in Egypt stealing St Mark’s body and bringing it back to Venice. And then there is the miracle of St Mark’s body reappearing in 1094 after being destroyed by fire in 976. St Mark’s body now lies in the Cathedral’s altar.
I experienced a sense of awe as I watched a fireboat race down the Grand Canal and disappeared into a side canal. My amazement was due to the unusual sight of a ‘fire engine’ being a boat and not a large truck. Later, I witnessed an ambulance maneuver into a narrow canal.
Venetian fireboat
Venetian ambulance
Day 2: San Polo and Santa Croce
The defined boundaries between San Polo and Santa Croce are not as clear-cut as those of Venice’s other four districts. Hence, their grouping together in this post and many guide books.
Crossing the Grand Canal from San Marco into San Polo via Rialto Bridge, my first stop this morning was Rialto Markets. Markets are a great way to gain an understanding of the local people; providing an insight into the local culture. As I wandered around the vegetable section of Rialto Markets and chatted to the stallholders, I learned the humble tomato is not so ordinary. Firstly, there are 25 tomato varieties in Italy. Secondly, no self-discerning vendor will sell you tomatoes without first knowing what you are cooking. To know it is imperative because they all have a different taste and must accompany the right dish. Only by understanding what you are cooking can the stall owner advise on just the correct type of tomato to use. I have to admit my palate is not up to Venetian tomato standards.
The Plague Doctor Mask I bought from Tragicomica
Walking past San Giacomo di Rialto’s 15th-century 24-hour clock and through Campo San Polo, I found the shop Tragicomica on Calle dei Nomboli, San Polo 2800, which my research at home before leaving for Italy told me it sold traditional Venetian masks. The shop was crowded – with masks – and I wondered how I was ever going to find that special mask with my name on it. After a lengthy chat with Tragicomica’s artisan Mask Maker about the different types of masks and the history behind the masks, I bought an authentic Venetian, paper-mache Plague Doctor Mask, with its long beak-like nose. The beak was filled with herbs to protect the doctor from the plague.
Sitting in a café opposite the rear of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, a large Gothic church commonly known as the Frari, I spent a pleasant hour just people watching. Even though Eyewitness Travel (Venice) describes the interior of the church as “striking for its sheer size and for the quality of its works of arts”, I did not venture inside. Instead, I wandered around the church’s exterior taking photos. The front of the church was very plain while the rear was much more impressive architecture.
Rear view of the Gothic church, Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
Lunch today was at Pizzeria Cico in Campo San Polo. The food was edible but ordinary, and the Square was plain but great for people watching.
Day 3: Cannaregio
Today was my longest walk – 1.6 kilometres (1 mile) from my hotel, via Strada Nova to the Jewish Ghetto in the Cannaregio district. The walk took me longer than the said 21 minutes because I kept stopping to explore different areas, admire the architecture, and take photos. And I had to stop for a coffee!
The Campo di Ghetto Nuovo, in the heart of the Jewish Ghetto, is a small, pretty Square with compelling monuments to the holocaust. Very tall buildings, unique in Venice, characterise Campo di Ghetto Nuovo. The tall buildings are due to the Jewish population being confined to a tiny area 500 years ago to segregate them from Venice’s Christian population. As the Jewish community grew and needed more housing, the only way was up.
The Ghetto’s five synagogues, unrecognisable from the Square, date back to the 16th century. Through the Jewish museum’s guided tour, the only way possible to see these hidden treasures, I discovered three of the five synagogues on the top floors of buildings – the French, German and Levantine, each representing a different ‘school’.
Back in Campo di Ghetto Nuovo, I contemplated the Holocaust memorials depicting Nazi brutality to the Jews during the Second World War.
The Holocaust Memorial on the brick wall in Campo di Ghetto Nuovo, created in 1980, comprises of seven bronze bas-relief plaques depicting deportation, Kristallnacht (the Night of Broken Glass), the quarry, punishment, execution, the Warsaw Uprising, and the final solution. Nine years later saw the addition of another memorial, the Deportation Memorial, also called “the Last Train”. Carved on the wooden boards behind the Deportation Memorial is the name and age of each victim who was deported.
Holocaust memorial wall plaques
Holocaust ‘Deportation Memorial’
Before the long walk back to my hotel, I had lunch at GAM GAM Kosher Restaurant. GAM GAM is located opposite the main entrance of the Jewish Ghetto on the Canale di Cannaregio – a great place to people-watch while enjoying a leisurely meal. I couldn’t resist ordering the house speciality, ‘Israeli Appetisers with Falafel’, served with the most delicious Italian bread. I was not disappointed and can honestly say this was the best meal I had in Venice.
With my feet crying ‘enough’, I took a traghetto (pedestrian transport) across the Grand Canal, alighting near Rialto Markets. Traghetti are cheap ‘pedestrian’ gondola ferries that just cross the Grand Canal from one side to the other. There are several points along the Grand Canal where you can pick up a traghetto. A traghetto will cost you (the tourist) 2 euros, while residents pay 70 cents. The crossing is so short that locals usually stand up in the traghetto. I sat! I didn’t trust my balance well enough not to end up in the Grand Canal. Did I save any walking distance? Probably not! But for about 6 minutes there, I felt like a real local and knew I had experienced something unique as tourists don’t usually use this mode of transport.
A traghetto (pedestrian transport) crossing the Grand Canal
Day 4: Castello
From my hotel, a 15-minute walk this morning took me to the Arsenale in the Castello district. While primarily disused today and, except for exhibitions, closed to the public, the Arsenale was once the greatest naval shipyard in the world. A whole galley, using an assembly-line process, would be constructed in 24 hours. Two massive lion statues (the symbol of Venice) guard the gate to the Arsenale. Venice’s maritime past can be viewed in all its glory at the Naval History Museum, near the Arsenale. I found naval personnel a common sight around the Castello neighbourhood.
The Arsenale
The largest of Venice’s six districts, Castello was a lovely area to walk around and lacked the tourist crowds found in neighbouring San Marco. My wandering took me to Via Giuseppe Garibaldi. Lined with restaurants, bars and cafés, Via Giuseppe Garibaldi is Venice’s widest street due to it being a filled-in canal. Feeling hungry, I stopped for a sandwich and coffee at Hopera Coffee and Bakery on Via Giuseppe Garibaldi.
Heading back towards Piazza San Marco, as I crossed Ponte Canonica, I saw for the first time Venice’s most famous and only covered bridge, the Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri). This little Baroque bridge spans the canal, Rio di Palazzo, between the New Prison in the Castello district and the Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace) in the San Marco district. From Ponte Canonica, I had an uninterrupted view of the Bridge of Sighs for my camera to record the moment.
The Bridge of Sighs
After a coffee and people watching from Ristorante Carpaccio on Riva degli Schiavoni, Venice’s most famous promenade, I took a tour of the Doge’s Palace and the New Prison. The tour included crossing the Bridge of Sighs. Walking across the Bridge, I sighed, just as legend has it that the prisoners did when they crossed the Bridge from the interrogation rooms in the Doge’s Palace to their cell or execution in the New Prison. Catching their last glimpse of Venice through the Bridge’s windows, they sighed, knowing they would never walk back the other way. I learned Casanova was the most famous person to have crossed the Bridge of Sighs on his way to his prison cell, from which he later escaped.
Close to my hotel was a gelato shop, Gelatoteca Suso, on Calle de la Bissa. Before heading back to my hotel, I decided I would try a gelato because everyone I met raved about Venetian gelato and this shop in particular. I am not a big ice cream fan, and this experience did not convert me.
Day 5: Island hopping – Murano and Burano
Before embarking on my trip to Venice, I had decided there were two things I wanted to buy – a Venetian mask and Murano glass jewellery. Having bought my Doctor Plague Mask in the San Polo district on day 2, I had that item crossed off my shopping list. Now I needed to concentrate on finding that right piece of Murano glass jewellery. The best way to do this was to go to Murano. So, I took a day tour of Murano and Burano islands. Located in the UNESCO World Heritage Venetian Lagoon, both islands are a short distance from Venice; with Murano being the closest.
Taking a private boat across the Lagoon, our first stop was Murano. Murano is world-famous for its glassmaking and has been since 1291. At this time, there was a forced removal of all the Venetian glassmakers to Murano. Woe betide the glassmaker who tried to leave the island. Any attempt to leave the island would result in severe penalties, including death. The tour included a visit to a glassmaking workshop and a demonstration by the in-house glass artisans. I always feel it is a privilege to watch artisans engaged in their craft. We were given free time following the glassmaking demonstration to shop and explore the island on our own.
Glassmakers working at their craft at a glassmaking factory on Murano
I was now on a mission – to find that piece of jewellery with my name on it (figuratively speaking). I looked through the showroom attached to the glassmaking workshop, but the jewellery was too glitzy, too fussy for my taste. I was not able to access other showrooms (in the hope of finding something more to my liking) as it is only possible to go into a showroom with a tour. With some free time still available, I tried my luck at small, individual jewellery shops. But they offered nothing better. I expressed my bitter disappointment to the tour guide. She offered to take me to a boutique jewellery shop on Burano, where I should find Murano glass jewellery more to my ‘no bling’ taste. Read on to find out why I will be forever grateful to this guide.
Leaving Murano, we motored to Burano. Burano is primarily a fishing village but is famous for its brightly coloured houses and handmade lace. After a lacemaking demonstration, my guide took me to the shop, Alessandro Tagliapietra Murano Glass Jewels. The owner of this small jewellery shop only sells what he makes. I had a lovely time choosing several pieces of handmade Murano glass jewellery – necklaces and earrings. So, I bought my Murano glass jewellery on Burano – go figure! Now totally satisfied, I wandered around Burano taking photos of the canals and coloured houses, chatting with the locals and discovering the 17th-century leaning bell tower.
Burano’s brightly coloured houses
Burano’s brightly coloured houses
Burano’s brightly coloured houses beside a canal
The Murano glass jewellery I bought on Burano
There ends my self-guided, 5-day walking tour of Venice. Where will your feet take you?
When to go
I was in Venice in early May. According to the World Weather Organization, the average daytime temperature in Venice in May is 21.5OC (70.7OF), and the average number of rain days is 8.2.
The week I was in Venice, the daily temperature was around 23OC, but felt warmer. Perhaps all that water increases the humidity?
Being my first visit to Venice, and from what I had read, I expected tourists to be inundating Venice. I was pleasantly surprised by the reality of crowds in May. Sure, there were many tourists around St Mark’s Square and Rialto Bridge, but in most other areas, I was virtually on my own.
In my opinion, May is an ideal time of year to visit Venice. Not too hot, not too cold, little chance of rain, and limited crowds.
Getting there and away
My time on my own in Venice followed an 8-day river cruise on the Po River. As such, I had two arrivals in Venice – the first at Venice Marco Polo International Airport and the second, at Venice’s pier Marittima 123 (where most cruise ships dock).
I first arrived in Venice, at Marco Polo Airport, on a flight that was 36 hours delayed. Consequently, I had missed my pre-arranged private transfer from the airport to the ship. As a result, I took the Alilaguna water bus (vaporetto) Red Line (Linea Rossa) service from the airport to the Arsenale stop (the closest stop to the ship). Catching public transport proved to be very easy; leaving me wondering why I had organised a private transfer in the first place. The Alilaguna water-bus Red Line runs only from April to September. I was in Venice in May. See Alilaguna for lines and timetables throughout the year.
My second arrival in Venice was at pier Marittima 123. From a nearby canal, I took a water taxi to my hotel (Hotel da Bruno); as opposed to the vaporetto. The travel guide, Eyewitness Travel, describes the water taxis as a means of transport for those short on time and with lots of money. While I was neither time-poor nor wealthy, I baulked at the thought of managing my bags through the crowds around Rialto Bridge; especially as I was unsure how far the hotel was from the Rialto stop. So, a water taxi it was! Ninety euros later, the water taxi dropped me off at the canal beside my hotel. I won’t do that again! Knowing now how easy it was to get around Venice by vaporetto, I will be catching public transport on my next visit to Venice.
From Venice, I took the train to Rome. A friend had advised me to allow one and a half hours to get from my hotel to Venice’s Santa Lucia train station. I don’t know how my friend managed to take so long to get to the train station because it took me half an hour maximum. The trip time included walking from my hotel to the Rialto vaporetto stop on the Grand Canal and catching the vaporetto to the train station, also on the Grand Canal. Dead easy!
Where I stayed
I stayed at the Hotel da Bruno for my five nights in Venice. This hotel is all about location, location. Being only a 5-minute walk to Rialto Bridge and a 6-minute walk to St Mark’s Square), it is well-positioned to explore all Venice has to offer on foot.
However, I was bitterly disappointed with my room. I had booked a single room and was shocked when I saw it. My room was no bigger than a broom closet. It was dark and dingy, with outdated, tired furniture. The view from my window was that of the air shaft. Not a place I wanted to be! I tried to upgrade to a double room, but there were none available. Hotel da Bruno’s only saving grace was its location.
Would I stay again at Hotel da Bruno? Yes. But I would ensure I had a double room. As the saying goes: Better the devil you know than the devil you don’t! And location, for me, is paramount.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
Italy’s Sassi di Matera (Stones of Matera) is a unique and ancient destination of cave dwellings and a World Heritage Site. This post takes you on a visual journey through the troglodyte settlement of Matera’s Sassi.
There are not enough adjectives to describe Melk Abbey. My first sighting of Melk Abbey, a Benedictine monastery, took my breath away and it took a while before I could…
There are not enough adjectives to describe Melk Abbey. My first sighting of Melk Abbey, a Benedictine monastery, took my breath away and it took a while before I could pick my jaw up off the ground. This beautiful, beautiful monastery (duplication not a typo) in Lower Austria should be on everyone’s European itinerary.
Melk Abbey is a masterpiece of Baroque architecture. It is Austria’s largest Baroque structure. Perched high on a cliff overlooking the old town of Melk and the Danube and Melk rivers, it sits within the Wachau Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The abbey you see today was built between 1702 and 1736. But Melk Abbey is 900 years of history – all evidently told in the abbey’s museum. Originally a palace, Melk Abbey was gifted to the Benedictine monks in 1089 and has remained an active abbey ever since. Today, Melk Abbey has 30 monks (ranging in age from 21 to 96 years); a co-educational secondary school with 900 pupils; and extremely well presented, minimalist museum; and a church that I can only describe as ostentatious.
From every angle, Melk Abbey is impressive. I lost count of the number of times I said, “Oh my goodness”. Swathed in ochre-coloured paint, Melk Abbey is just the most beautiful building to behold. You might have gathered by now that I fell in love with Melk Abbey. And the guided tour cemented my love.
The guided tour through Melk Abbey commenced with a meet and greet in the large outer courtyard, the Gatekeeper’s Courtyard. In this courtyard, you will find the oak wooden statue of Saint Coloman. The statue is 150 years old and the oak was sourced from the abbey’s forests. Saint Coloman was Austria’s first patron saint until 1663. He is still the patron saint of Melk Abbey and the town of Melk.
Melk Abbey’s Gatekeeper’s Courtyard, with a view through to the Prelate’s Courtyard
Wooden statue of Saint Coloman, the patron saint of Melk Abbey, in the Gatekeeper’s Courtyard
From the Gatekeeper’s Courtyard, it was through the Benedict Hall and into the Prelate’s Courtyard. In this latter courtyard were four vivid, contemporary frescos; replacing the Baroque frescos that were unable to be restored. These frescos represent the four cardinal virtues – Prudence, Temperance, Justice and Fortitude. The modernist style of the frescos caused some controversy as people tried to adjust to the move away from the original, and expected, Baroque style.
Melk Abbey’s modern fresco depicting the cardinal virtue of Prudence in the Prelate’s Courtyard
Melk Abbey’s modern fresco representing the cardinal virtue of Temperance in the Prelate’s Courtyard
Melk Abbey’s modern fresco representing the cardinal virtue of Justice in the Prelate’s Courtyard
Melk Abbey’s modern fresco representing the cardinal virtue of Fortitude in the Prelate’s Courtyard
The fountain in the Prelate’s Courtyard is a copy of the Coloman fountain. The original, removed from Melk Abbey in 1722, now stands in Melk’s Town Hall Square.
Leaving the Prelate’s Courtyard through a narrow passageway, the Imperial Staircase leads up to the Imperial Wing.
Copy of the Coloman fountain in Melk Abbey’s Prelate’s Courtyard
The Imperial Staircase in Melk Abbey’s Imperial Wing
The Imperial Wing was originally designed for the imperial court. Here, we find the Imperial Corridor and the imperial rooms (now housing Melk Abbey’s museum). A lot of ‘imperials’ happening here!
The Imperial Corridor, at 200 metres long, is impressive. The Corridor is hung with portraits of Austria’s rulers – from the first Babenberg Emperor, Leopold l, to the last Habsburg Emperor, Karl l. There are more portraits of Habsburgs because they ruled for longer.
The Melk Abbey museum, in the imperial rooms to the left of the Imperial Staircase, is extremely well set up and informative. It is minimalist in a positive way. That is, you get a good overview of the history (past and present) of the abbey, of its cultural, political and economic functions, but you are not left feeling overwhelmed; feeling as though there was too much to take in and, therefore, coming away none the wiser. No information overload here.
The museum comprises of 11 small rooms. The overriding theme of the museum is, “The Path from Yesterday to Today: Melk Abbey in its Past and Present”, with each room having its own individual theme. What follows are snippets of, in my opinion, interesting information taken from the guide’s explanations throughout the museum tour and my impressions.
Room 3 (“The Ups and Downs of History”) has a wavy floor, representing the ups and downs of life. The flooring is not the original Baroque because Napoleon was an unfortunate guest who burned documents on the floor.
Rooms 5 and 6 are a tribute to Melk Abbey’s contribution to the Baroque period. The Baroque period was a time in history of excess and all that glitters (gold, and more gold). “Heaven on Earth” seems to me an appropriate theme for this period. However, Room 7, with its, “In the Name of Reason” theme, represents new times and a sensible, frugal monarch. Joseph ll said the Baroque style was too expensive. But perhaps he was a little too frugal. Taking the Baroque style to the opposite extreme, he only allowed one coffin per church. The coffin designed to meet this requirement had a bottom that would open, allowing the corpse to drop through. Thus, the coffin could be used again.
Room 10 (“To Glorify God in Everything”) contains a 17th century iron chest used for secure storage and transporting the abbey’s most important documents and treasures. The chest has a convoluted locking mechanism, comprising of 14 locks that are still working.
The detailed model of Melk Abbey housed in Room 11 (“Motion is a sign of Life”) turns so you can see all sides unobstructed. There is a mirror on the ceiling to enable a view into the courtyards of the model.
The Marble Hall was a place to receive guests and dining hall for the imperial family. The name ‘Marble’ Hall is somewhat misleading as only the door frames are true marble. The ‘marble’ on the walls is faux marble. However, this is easily forgiven by the magnificent ceiling fresco that is complemented and framed by stunning architectural painting.
Magnificent views of the town of Melk, and the Danube and Melk rivers are to be had from the Terrace that connects the Marble Hall with the library. The Terrace also provides a great view of Melk Abbey church.
View of the town of Melk and Melk River from Melk Abbey’s Terrace
Melk Abbey church viewed from the abbey’s Terrace
The library is the second most important room in any Benedictine monastery; second only to the church.
My favourite library to date has been Coimbra University library in Portugal. However, the competition between that library and Melk Abbey’s library would be a close contest. Both are stunningly beautiful. There is something uniquely special about the mix of dark wood and old books.
Melk Abbey library houses approximately 10,000 volumes, with manuscripts dating back to the 9th century. The uniformity of the books in the inlaid bookshelves is due to them all being bound to match. With internal balconies, wooden sculptures, a huge free-standing world globe, figurines and frescoed ceilings, the library is an entrancing vision. It also exudes peace and tranquillity; a place where I could easily spend hours just sitting and soaking in the atmosphere. I know I am waxing lyrical here, but I can’t help it. Melk Abbey library does that to me. No wonder Umberto Eco conducted his research on his book, The Name of the Rose in Melk Abbey’s library. But more on that later.
The upper floor of the library, reached by a spiral staircase, is not open to the public.
The guided tour ended in the library. I lingered to absorb the library’s ambiance before heading to the church on the recommendation of the guide.
My visit to Melk Abbey’s church, not part of the guided tour, was very brief as I am over what I can only describe as ostentatious, Baroque churches. Of note, however, is the Altar of St. Coloman. Here you will find a sarcophagus with, we are told, the remains of St. Coloman, the patron saint of Melk Abbey.
Photography was not permitted inside Melk Abbey’s museum, the Marble Hall, the library, or the church.
You don’t have to take the one-hour guided tour of Melk Abbey (except in the winter months). However, it is my opinion this would be false economy as the explanations provided by the guide throughout the tour were invaluable. The guide’s story telling brought Melk Abbey alive; revealing all its traits.
Melk Abbey’s literary connection is not just confined to the books in its historical library.
The Name of the Rose, written by Umberto Eco (1980), is a historical murder mystery (a medieval whodunit) set in an Italian Cistercian monastery in 1327.
But what does a story about murders in a Cistercian monastery in Italy have to do with a Benedictine monastery in Austria? The connection is Melk Abbey’s magnificent library. You see, the focal point in The Name of the Rose is the library where all the murders take place. Melk Abbey’s library is said to be Eco’s inspiration for the library in The Name of the Rose.
But the connection goes further than that. One of Eco’s main characters in The Name of the Rose is Adso of Melk, a Benedictine novice from Melk Abbey. The Name of the Rose is Adso of Melk’s story as he is the narrator. As way of introduction, Adso of Melk informs us he is writing his narrative, now an old man, at Melk Abbey. On the last page of The Name of the Rose, Adso of Melk tells the reader he is leaving his manuscript in the library of Melk Abbey.
In summary, make the effort to visit Melk Abbey. You won’t be disappointed. I guarantee it is something special.
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What better way to capture a city than through a photography tour or workshop with a local? That’s just what I did when I signed up for two photography tours…
What better way to capture a city than through a photography tour or workshop with a local? That’s just what I did when I signed up for two photography tours in Amsterdam with Amsterdam Photo Safari – the 6-hour walking night photography tour (5.30pm to 11.30pm) and the 5-hour walking day photography tour (11.00am to 4.00pm).
Ruud was my guide and tutor on both photography tours. Amsterdam is his home. I had Ruud to myself for both tours. This was simply luck of the draw as I had not booked private tours. As we walked around Amsterdam’s districts, he exposed this amazing city’s personality; opening up its beating heart and its multi-facetted soul. Ruud took me to places I would never have got to as a traveller. His knowledgeable stories brought Amsterdam to life for me. According to Ruud, “Every photo has a story and to every story there is a photo”. Not only did I feel I improved my photography skills from the guided tuition of a professional photographer who was an excellent teacher, but I discovered Amsterdam from a born storyteller. I found my time with Rudd increased my consciousness of my surroundings. Particularly in terms of what to photograph; what will make an interesting photo; and what will make a photo pop. Thank you Ruud.
Buildings reflected in every window of a house in Amsterdam
Amsterdam Photo Safari cater for all skill levels. I describe myself as an amateur photographer with (now) intermediate skills. I firmly believe that no one is ever too skilled to learn new things. Ruud gave me the confidence to use manual focus (I have a DSLR camera); showing how it better captures a subject that is, for example, reflected in a window or puddle of water. He provided positive and constructive feedback. At no time was I made to feel inadequate.
Ruud’s focus was on me, my learning, my camera, my photography. I believe this was not simply because I was the only participant. Even had there been other participants, the focus still would have been ‘individual’. This was important for me as I was extremely annoyed (to say the least) on one photography holiday a number of years ago where the photography tutor was more interested in the photographs he could capture for himself than those of his paying guests.
Ruud was very keen on shallow depth of field; recommending I set the camera’s f-stop to f/3.5 (the lowest my camera will go). For those non-photographers, shallow depth of field is the immediate foreground in focus, for example a box of flowers or a bicycle (plenty of those in Amsterdam), and the background out of focus (blurred). My passion is travel photography and I doubted such shallow depth of field would suit my purposes. Ruud’s argument was that even though the background is blurred, it is still recognisable and produces a more creative photo. See the photos below for a visual explanation of what I am referring to. While I went along with Rudd, I thought I would never use such a shallow depth of field with my travel photography. I am also someone who wants everything in the photo in focus. So, to find myself using f/3.5 on my further travels through Europe, I surprised myself and silently thanked Ruud. I now have some pretty good, creative photos to add to my memories of the places I have been.
Shallow depth of field: A canon with 3 crosses (representing Amsterdam’s motto) in focus on a bridge with background houses blurred
Shallow depth of field: Some flowers in focus with Amsterdam’s canal boats blurred
The sign of a good photography tutor is one who can work their way around any camera brand, no matter how unfamiliar they might be with different brands. Ruud’s camera of choice is a Sony, while mine is a Nikon. Rudd admitted he was not overly familiar with Nikons. However, I would not have picked up on this without him telling me. The only hint came during the night photography tour. I had my tripod (these can be hired from Amsterdam Photo Safari at a minimal cost) but had left my remote shutter release back in my hotel room (clever!). I couldn’t remember how to set the in-camera timer. Ruud wasn’t fazed by this. After a quick, unfruitful play with my camera’s dials, out came his mobile phone and an internet search quickly told us where the timer was. No shooting time or opportunities lost.
Given that I live in Australia, all my communications with Amsterdam Photo Safari was via email. Booking with Amsterdam Photo Safari was made so easy thanks to the prompt and detailed responses to my email queries. Payment was made through PayPal (no account required). I even managed to negotiate a discount with Amsterdam Photo Safari for booking two photography tours with them. Once booked, communication from Amsterdam Photo Safari did not cease as they kept me informed with who would be my photography tutor, the meeting place, time etc. Thanks Barry.
Barry went above and beyond, suggesting (unrelated to Amsterdam Photo Safari) places near Amsterdam worth visiting; one of which I added to my itinerary. I was not disappointed.
Comfortable walking shoes are essential. Even though we stopped for coffee breaks, to have the stamina to keep going was crucial. I have to admit, by 3.30pm on the day photography tour I was ready to sit down and not get up again.
I thoroughly enjoyed the night and day photography tours with Amsterdam Photo Safari. I got to discover Amsterdam from a local and learnt so much. My knowledge and understanding of composition and perspective and how to look for and achieve these, were significantly enhanced. But for me, I learnt the most on the night photography tour. Learning how to set up and use long exposure (an area of photography I was not familiar with – as evidenced by my inability to find the timer on my camera) has opened up a whole new genre of photography for me. The canal boats made an excellent subject for long exposure; with their lights making colourful trails across the photo.
A canal boat passing in front of houses on a canal in Amsterdam becomes a transparent, colourful trail of lights through long exposure
I highly recommend Amsterdam Photo Safari.
Note: Flexibility around Amsterdam Photo Safari’s tour hours was not a hassle. I needed to end the night photography tour earlier than designated as I had to ensure I did not miss the last tram back to my hotel. Additional time was simply added to my day photography tour the next day (hence my flagging energy?). Had I not been taking another photography tour the next day, I am convinced Amsterdam Photo Safari would have suggested something appropriate and mutually acceptable in the way of compensation.
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So, how do you best spend your free time in Rothenburg? The short answer to this question is, WALK. Being relatively flat, Rothenburg’s Old Town is easy to walk around,…
So, how do you best spend your free time in Rothenburg? The short answer to this question is, WALK. Being relatively flat, Rothenburg’s Old Town is easy to walk around, despite the cobblestone streets. If you don’t stop to window shop, it should only take you about 15 minutes to walk from one end of town to the other.
But I am getting ahead of myself here.
Firstly, Rothenburg is the common abbreviation for this German town’s full name; that being, Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Translated, Rothenburg ob der Tauber means, “Red Fortress above the Tauber”. Red Fortress above the Tauber is an apt name. The town is situated on a plateau above the Tauber River. While ‘Red Fortress’ – translated from rot (red) and burg (burgh, fortified settlement) – is attributed by some to the red roofs of Rothenburg’s houses inside the fortification.
‘Red Fortress’ – the red roofs of the houses behind Rothenburg’s fortifications
Secondly, why visit Rothenburg ob der Tauber in the first place? With its medieval architecture, narrow cobblestone streets and intact fortification wall, Rothenburg ob der Tauber is considered one of the prettiest towns in Germany. It is a medieval town frozen in time and said to be the most perfectly preserved, medieval walled city in Europe. Rothenburg ob der Tauber is one of Germany’s last remaining walled medieval towns, reached via the ‘Romantic Road’ in the Franconia region of Bavaria in southern Germany. There are photo opportunities everywhere you look.
Rothenburg ob der Tauber is 1000 years of history in the making. It was one of the largest cities in the Holy Roman Empire; survived a siege in 1631 during the Thirty Years’ War between Protestant and Catholic states in the Holy Roman Empire (1618-1648); and stagnated in 1634 due to poverty and plague. It is this latter that preserved Rothenburg in its 17th century state. But this post is not intended to be a history lesson. However, it is worth pointing out that Rothenburg survived WWII substantially intact because its historical significance was recognised and acknowledged by the invading British army. What this post does focus on is a visualisation of Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Through my photographs, I hope to arouse your senses enough to step back in time and visit this beautiful town.
My time in Rothenburg ob der Tauber was on an optional day excursion from my river cruise when we were docked at Wurzburg, Germany. I chose this excursion because I couldn’t resist visiting a place where the Viking Cruise Documents used words like, ‘romantic’, ‘walled’, ‘medieval’, ‘preserved’, ‘inviting’, and ‘picturesque’ to describe it. I was not disappointed, and I immediately fell in love with this picture-perfect, medieval walled town. With its half-timbered houses, elaborate shop signages, and window boxes full of geraniums, every turn was a picture postcard moment.
A half-timbered house makes a great location for a toy shop
The ‘cow’ butcher shop ornate sign, geraniums and rooftops
It was a 1½ hour drive from where the ship was docked at Wurzburg to Rothenburg ob der Tauber. The drive took us along the ‘Romantic Road’. I can’t tell what was romantic about it because I slept most of the way. I believe it has something to do with being a picturesque countryside. I do know that each time I roused from my sleep it was to a view of a vineyard. Shame I slept so much!
Once in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, our guide gave us an orientation walking tour; taking us past St James Church, through Market Square with its 13th century Gothic/Renaissance Town Hall, past fountains, museums and amazing architecture, explaining the relationship between shops and their signage, and ending at St John’s Church (our meeting point for lunch).
St James (Lutheran) Church
The Town Hall and half-timbered house in Market Square
A picturesque narrow street with signage and tower
St John’s (Catholic) Church and locust fountain
With the orientation completed, we were left to spend our free time as we pleased. I wasn’t interested in the well-known Christmas shop. And I decided to take the guide’s advice and not try the local ‘delicacy’, a Schneeball, which he described as “horrible”. This is deep-fried dough shaped like a snowball and covered in either confectioner’s sugar or chocolate. In our guide’s own words, “you will choke on a Schneeball if you don’t take a drink of water with each and every bite to wash it down”.
I wanted to explore and photograph my own experience; to follow the direction of my feet. And I only had 1½ hours to do this in. After pointing my feet in the direction of what the guide said is the most instagrammed photo in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, I headed for the town’s fortifications.
The Plonlein is the most instagrammed image in Rothenburg
I cannot fathom why this crooked, half-timbered house on Plonlein (Little Square) is the most instagrammed image in Rothenburg ob der Tauber; why it should be so photographed. I have read that it has featured in a number of movies and been the inspiration for others, but the town is full of much more interesting, charming architecture. If anyone can enlighten me, that would be appreciated. Or, better still, go check it out for yourself.
Taking the Kobolzeller Gate (built 1360) to the right as you face the half-timbered house in the ‘most instagrammed photo’, I climbed the few steps to the town’s medieval wall. Rothenburg ob der Tauber’s medieval wall, built in the 13th century, is 4 kilometres long and completely encircles the town’s historical centre. Walking along the wall, there are 6 gates and 42 towers to explore. With my limited time, I only managed 2 gates (up through one gate and down through the next) and a handful of towers. Despite all the tourists in town, I had the wall to myself – a very pleasant experience.
The medieval wall encloses Rothenburg’s houses
A section of the medieval wall with one of the 42 towers
Coming off the wall, I proceeded to walk in a large circle that took me back to Market Square.
The former Horse Mill (built 1516) is now Rothenburg’s youth hostel
Medieval architecture. This half-timbered house is locked in time
The Master Builder’s House (built 1596) presents a different architectural style
I loved the textures of this old warehouse
Street view of shops, their ornate signs and tourists through a tower
Cafes line Market Square
I was back in Market Square in time for when the clock on the 14th century Councillor’s Tavern performs its hourly ritual. Our guide had informed us that on the hour between 10.00am and 10.00pm two doors open on either side of the clock face. Out comes Rothenburg’s former Mayor, Nusch, and the Catholic General, Tilly, who challenged Nusch to drink a gallon tankard of wine in one go without stopping to save the town during the Thirty Years’ War. And save the town he did! It’s not the most interesting mechanical clock I have seen on my travels, but I did like the story behind it – the “Legend of the Master Draught”.
The “Legend of the Master Draught” mechanical clock on the Councillor’s Tavern
I have to go back to Rothenburg ob der Tauber:
to visit the gardens that replaced Rothenburg Castle which was destroyed in an earthquake in 1356;
to visit the Medieval Crime and Justice Museum;
to hike down into the valley;
to climb the Town Hall Tower to see the views for myself rather than just read about them;
to check out the interior of St James Church and its famous Holy Blood altarpiece;
to sit in a cafe in Market Square and people-watch;
and much more
I reckon this will take me 2 to 3 days (at least).
Rothenburg ob der Tauber, I will see you again.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain a copyright of Joanna Rath.
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