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Category: Oceania

PORT ARTHUR AND SARAH ISLAND: Tasmania’s Two Harshest Convict Settlements

Port Arthur and Sarah Island, Tasmania’s Brutal Penal Colonies, Defined the Harsh Extremes of British Punishment. Visiting Both Sites is a Journey into Australia’s Darkest Colonial History and an Experience…

Port Arthur and Sarah Island, Tasmania’s Brutal Penal Colonies, Defined the Harsh Extremes of British Punishment. Visiting Both Sites is a Journey into Australia’s Darkest Colonial History and an Experience You Won’t Forget Anytime Soon.

 

Two remote locations in Tasmania once struck fear into the hearts of transported convicts. One was situated on a narrow peninsula guarded by water, soldiers, and dogs, while the other lay isolated in a vast harbour surrounded by dense wilderness. For prisoners sent to these settlements, life involved relentless labour, harsh punishment, and little hope of escape. Today, visitors can explore the haunting remains of these infamous penal settlements at Port Arthur Historic Site and Sarah Island. Together, they reveal some of the darkest chapters of Australia’s convict history.

 

Tasmania is home to some of Australia’s most formidable convict sites. Still, none are more notorious than Port Arthur on the Tasman Peninsula and Sarah Island on the remote west coast. Both places were established as destinations for convicts deemed beyond reform, and both have come to represent the brutality of Australia’s convict past.

I visited both Port Arthur and Sarah Island. Although they are separated by distance and share a reputation as the country’s two harshest penal establishments, the experiences of each couldn’t be more different. One is set in a peaceful coastal bay, carefully preserved and thoughtfully interpreted. The other lies isolated in the wild waters of Macquarie Harbour, where the rainforest and silence are slowly reclaiming the ruins.

Visiting these two sites reveals more than historical facts. It exposes a history of systematic cruelty intended to break even the most defiant prisoners. In this post, I explore the histories of Port Arthur and Sarah Island, what life was like for the convicts imprisoned there, and why seeing them both offers a powerful and sobering insight into Australia’s convict past.

Convict Transportation to Tasmania

Between 1788 and 1868, over 162,000 British and Irish convicts were transported to Australia as punishment, mostly for theft, to relieve overcrowded prisons and to support the settlement of the new territory. Around 73,000 to 76,000 convicts were sent to Van Diemen’s Land (now Tasmania), where they provided labour for a growing settlement.

Most convicts worked as forced labourers for free settlers or on government infrastructure projects, such as roads, bridges, and public buildings. However, those who reoffended or resisted authority could be sent to harsher punishment settlements. These secondary penal establishments were designed to break even the most defiant prisoners. Two of the harshest were Port Arthur and Sarah Island.

Port Arthur vs Sarah Island: A Quick Overview

At a glance, Port Arthur and Sarah Island might seem similar: both are historic convict settlements, UNESCO-listed sites, and key stops for those interested in Tasmania’s history. However, in reality, the visitor experience is markedly different.

Port Arthur is expansive, accessible, and highly interpreted. Visitors move along well-marked paths, through restored buildings and curated ruins, supported by signage, audio guides, and guided tours.

Sarah Island, by contrast, feels raw and unresolved, with an unsettling, brooding atmosphere. There are no reconstructed buildings and little interpretation on the island itself. The ruins sit quietly among dense vegetation, and the island’s story must be pieced together through imagination and the tales told by tour guides.

Sarah Island: Hell on Earth

Getting to Sarah Island

Sarah Island lies in the middle of Macquarie Harbour, at the mouth of the Gordon River on Tasmania’s remote west coast. It can only be visited by boat from the small town of Strahan, as it is not accessible by land. I visited Sarah Island on a guided tour with World Heritage Cruises.

As Strahan faded into the distance and the harbour widened, it was easy to see why Sarah Island was chosen as a penal settlement. Distance, water, and wilderness combine to create a sense of isolation that no walls could ever replicate.

Sarah Island sits in an isolated position in Macquarie Harbour.

 

A punishment within a punishment

Sarah Island, Tasmania’s oldest convict settlement, operated from 1822 to 1833 and was the most feared place of banishment for Australian convicts. It was intended as a harsh punishment for re-offending convicts who committed further crimes after arriving in the Australian colonies. Its inmates were regarded as the most hardened, troublesome, and dangerous within the transportation system – the worst of the worst. To be assigned to Sarah Island was to be told, in the clearest possible terms, that the authorities had given up on you.

Meant to strike fear into the hearts of convicts and described as ‘Hell on Earth’, the conditions lived up to that label. Convicts cut down Huon pine in the surrounding rainforest and hauled it back to the island’s shipyard, working in freezing water for hours on end. Huon pine was highly prized for shipbuilding, and Sarah Island became Australia’s most productive shipyard of its era. But labour was harsh, rations were minimal, and floggings were relentless. Even by the punishing standards of the time, Sarah Island’s commandants were known for their brutality.

Situated on the far western edge of today’s Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, with its seemingly impenetrable mountainous wilderness, the authorities believed escape from Sarah Island was impossible. They were wrong!

The information board listing convicts’ escape attempts from Sarah Island.

 

A short play, ‘The Ship That Never Was’, performed every evening for the past 28 years for visitors in Strahan, recounts the remarkable 1834 escape of ten convicts who hijacked the brig the Frederick and sailed it to Chile, arriving six weeks later. They were captured two years later by the British Navy and sent back to Hobart. The play’s title comes from the escapees’ argument at trial for piracy – that they hadn’t committed piracy because the Frederick had not been officially launched when they stole it, and therefore was not a legal ship. They were ultimately found guilty of piracy – a hanging offence – but not sentenced to death. They were transported to the notorious Norfolk Island penal settlement.

What remains of Sarah Island

Little remains of the original settlement, except for scattered foundations and ruins of the military barracks, bakehouse oven, solitary confinement gaol, and the commandant’s house. The island feels abandoned, with an eerie atmosphere I can only attribute to the ‘ghosts’ of the past.

The guide’s dramatic stories of convicts, punishments, and daring escapes, laced with a necessary interpretation of what we were seeing, were the only thing that gave any depth to the site’s history.

Standing among the remnants of Sarah Island’s convict settlement, I found it impossible to reconcile the wild beauty of the harbour surrounding the island and the lush rainforest encroaching on it with the cruelty that once occurred here.

Sarah Island was ultimately closed in 1833 because its remote location made supplying the settlement difficult and expensive. Its convicts were transferred directly to Port Arthur.

Port Arthur: A Harsh Penal Settlement on the Tasman Peninsula

Overview of Port Arthur 

The Penitentiary at Port Arthur Historic Site.

 

Arriving in Port Arthur is unsettling. How can an undeniably beautiful setting of rolling, tree-covered hills, pretty gardens, and expansive lawns on the calm shores of Carnarvon Bay be home to a history of harsh punishment?

Set on the isolated Tasman Peninsula, Port Arthur operated as a penal settlement from 1830 to 1877. Surrounded by water and linked to the mainland by the narrow Eaglehawk Neck land bridge, the site was chosen for its natural security. It quickly became one of the most significant penal settlements in Australia, housing approximately 12,500 convicts over its lifetime, and one of the most ambitious penal experiments in the world.

Port Arthur is surrounded by water and tree-covered rolling hills.

 

Today, it is the best-preserved convict settlement in Australia and a UNESCO World Heritage site, just 90 minutes from Hobart.

Port Arthur is a large site spanning more than 40 hectares, with more than 30 historic buildings, extensive ruins, and beautiful grounds and gardens to explore. Allow several hours for your visit, or better still, at least one day. On a coach tour of Tasmania, I spent four hours at Port Arthur, including a guided tour, a 20-minute cruise on the bay, and some free time. I felt rushed and disappointed that I couldn’t do the site justice.

The architecture of control

Port Arthur was not just a prison but a self-contained system built entirely around control. The peninsula itself, with the narrow land bridge at Eaglehawk Neck patrolled by guards and starved dogs, served as a security measure, making escape impossible. However, during the guided walking tour, the guide shared stories of the lengths convicts went to escape from Port Arthur.

Like Sarah Island, Port Arthur was intended for repeat offenders and those who committed crimes after arriving in the colonies. Convicts performed hard labour, discipline was strict, and punishments could be severe. Floggings with the cat-o’-nine-tails, witnessed by all prisoners, were the main punishment in the prison’s early years.

Floggings stopped completely in the late 1840s due to penal reforms that resulted in the most chilling innovation known as the “separate system”. The theory held that solitude would encourage reflection and reform.

In line with this new theory, one of Port Arthur’s most notorious features was the establishment of the Separate Prison in 1848, based on a system of silence and isolation. Here, prisoners were subjected to psychological rather than physical punishment, with the intent of breaking them mentally.

Port Arthur’s Separate Prison, where psychological torture was intended to reform inmates.

 

Prisoners were kept in total silence, forbidden from speaking or communicating. Hoods were worn whenever they were outside their cells to prevent identification, and they were addressed only by number. They attended the chapel, seated in individual booths where they could see only the chaplain. The system was designed for mental subjugation, but it often drove prisoners psychotic. The psychological torture was so successful at dehumanising prisoners that an asylum was built near the Separate Prison to house those who broke under these conditions.

Visiting Port Arthur today

The entry ticket to Port Arthur Historic Site is valid for two consecutive days. It includes interactive experiences in the Visitor Centre, an introductory walking tour, guided talks across the site, a harbour cruise, a self-guided audio experience, the museum, and access to more than 30 historic buildings, ruins, restored houses, heritage gardens, and walking trails.

One of Port Arthur’s greatest strengths is the way its history is interpreted. Information boards, audio guides, and guided talks provide context that turns the ruins into stories, bringing the settlement to life.

Unlike Sarah Island, where the visitor is left to imagine what happened there, Port Arthur names individuals, explains systems, and situates punishment within the broader thinking of the time. As I wandered among the buildings and ruins, it was easy to visualise the lives of the convicts who once suffered here. A sobering experience!

Port Arthur’s Memorial Garden

The Memorial Garden commemorates the victims of Australia’s worst mass murder, which occurred at Port Arthur on 28 April 1996. It led to legislative change in the nation’s gun ownership laws.

The garden, created as a place of remembrance and quiet reflection, incorporates the remains of Port Arthur’s Broad Arrow Cafe, where 20 people were killed in the massacre, a tranquil pool, and a memorial cross inscribed with the names of the 35 visitors and staff who lost their lives.

The memorial cross in Port Arthur’s Memorial Garden.

 

Visiting Port Arthur and Sarah Island is not about ticking off historic sites but about stepping into one of the harshest chapters of Australia’s history. It’s a journey that confronts a shared past told in two very different voices. Port Arthur explains, contextualises, and names the systems that shaped convict punishment, while Sarah Island leaves much unsaid, forcing visitors to sit with discomfort and imagine the lives deliberately broken here. Together, they reveal how far the British penal system was prepared to go to maintain control and how the environment itself was used as a weapon of punishment.

What stayed with me most was the contrast between beauty and brutality. Calm waters, landscaped grounds, and lush rainforests sit uneasily alongside stories of intentional isolation, enforced silence, psychological torture, and harsh labour. Walking through these places is sobering, not only because of what happened there, but because it’s impossible to fully reconcile the serenity of their settings with the suffering they once held.

I strongly encourage visiting both sites in a single trip, rather than choosing one over the other. Sarah Island and Port Arthur are not simply variations on the same theme. They represent different philosophies of punishment, distinct moments in colonial history, and unique relationships with the Tasmanian landscape. Seen together, they offer a powerful insight into Tasmania’s convict past and the stories of those who lived it. Seeing only one gives you half the story.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2026.

 

Have you ever visited two historic sites linked by the same story, yet experienced them in completely different ways? Which one stayed with you the most, and why?

I’d love to hear your story. Share it in the comments below.

 

Like this post? Save it for later!

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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View of a rugged coastline.TASMAN NATIONAL PARK, TASMANIA: 15 Photos to Inspire Your Visit. This post shares what it’s like to visit Tasman National Park’s iconic coastal sites, including Tasman Arch, Devils Kitchen, and the Tessellated Pavement, and to cruise beneath dramatic sea cliffs to Tasman Island. Read the photo story for travel inspiration.

 

A steam locomotive with two carriages stands at a station.FROM QUEENSTOWN INTO THE WILDERNESS ABOARD TASMANIA’S HISTORIC TRAIN. Discover Tasmania’s West Coast Wilderness Railway: a historic steam train journey through rainforest, dramatic landscapes, and mining history, with premium onboard dining and immersive storytelling.

 

© Just Me Travel 2018-2026. All rights reserved.

 

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TASMAN NATIONAL PARK, TASMANIA: 15 Photos to Inspire Your Visit

Tasman National Park Explored from the Clifftop and the Sea is an Unforgettable Adventure.   There’s something compelling about standing at the edge of a coastline shaped entirely by wind…

Tasman National Park Explored from the Clifftop and the Sea is an Unforgettable Adventure.

 

There’s something compelling about standing at the edge of a coastline shaped entirely by wind and sea.

In Tasman National Park, cliffs rise sharply from the Southern Ocean, rock formations reveal centuries of erosion, and patterns etched into stone tell quiet geological stories. From the viewing platforms above Tasman Arch and Devils Kitchen to the intricate grid of the Tessellated Pavement, the landscape feels both dramatic and detailed. 

Later, stepping onto a boat at Eaglehawk Neck, the same coastline revealed itself again. This time, from below! The cliffs towered overhead, sea caves opened along the rock face, wildlife sunbaked on rocks, and Tasman Island emerged from the horizon, isolated and windswept. 

In this post, I’ll share my journey exploring Tasman National Park from both land and sea, with photos to inspire your visit.

 

About Tasman National Park

Way down south in Tasmania, about an hour and a half from Hobart, lies a wild stretch of coastline where nature’s forces have shaped the land for millennia. Tasman National Park protects the dramatic eastern and southern shores of the Tasman and Forestier peninsulas, which are joined by the narrow isthmus at Eaglehawk Neck and extend out to Tasman Island.

Map showing Tasman National Park (discovertasmanpeninsula.com.au/images/Tasman-Region-Map-2024)

 

Tasman National Park is a landscape shaped by wind, water, and time. It is renowned for its dramatic, 300-metre-high dolerite sea cliffs (the highest in Australia), unique coastal rock formations, and the iconic Three Capes Track. The park features a wild, rugged landscape with attractions such as the Tessellated Pavement, Tasman Arch, and the Totem Pole, along with diverse wildlife and pristine beaches.

This is a place where adventure awaits at every turn. Whether you’re gazing from the clifftops or cruising along the rugged shoreline, Tasman National Park is best experienced from both land and sea.

You must have a valid pass to enter any national park in Tasmania. These include daily, annual, and 2-year passes.

From the Clifftops: Iconic Coastal Formations

From the clifftops, formations such as Tasman Arch and Devils Kitchen dominate the horizon, while the Tessellated Pavement draws the eye down to intricate patterns carved by nature.

Tasman Arch

An bridge-like rock formation on the cliff coastline.

A clifftop view of the iconic Tasman Arch.

 

Just a short walk from a dedicated car park, Tasman Arch is a natural rock bridge carved by centuries of relentless wave action. With a ceiling rising more than 50 metres above the roaring Southern Ocean, it is the remnant roof of a collapsed sea cave and tunnel system, offering dramatic, easily accessible, and free coastal views.

Standing above Tasman Arch, it feels almost sculptural, with its clean, carved opening framed by rugged cliff edges. Watching the ebb and flow of the ocean through the arch was mesmerising.

Later, I would see Tasman Arch again from the sea, and it would feel entirely different.

Devils Kitchen

Near Eaglehawk Neck and a short walk from Tasman Arch, Devils Kitchen is a narrow, 60-metre-deep chasm with rugged cliff scenery. It was formed by the collapse of sea cave roofs due to intense, long-term erosion, and is named for the churning waters that crash onto the rocks.

A narrow, deep chasm.

Devils Kitchen viewed from the clifftop observation platform.

 

Visitors can view the Southern Ocean’s turbulent waters surging through the gorge from a safe observation platform with sweeping views.

Tessellated Pavement

Tile-like rock formation at the base of a coastal cliff.

Looking down on the Tessellated Pavement in Tasman National Park on the Tasman Peninsula.

 

Tessellated Pavement is an extremely rare, naturally occurring coastal rock formation named for the tiled appearance of the rocks along the water. It is found only in a few places on Earth. Created over millions of years by erosion, where salt spray from the ocean, combined with tidal action, has weathered the joints in the rock. The flat rock is divided into two main patterns: sunken “pans” and raised “loaves”.

Tasmania’s Tessellated Pavement at Pirates Bay, near Eaglehawk Neck in Tasman National Park, is one of the world’s best examples of this geological formation and is best viewed at low tide.

Tile-like rock formation partially covered in sea green moss.

The Tessellated Pavement, with Pirates Bay in the background.

 

From Clifftops to the Sea

After viewing the coastline from solid ground, it was time to see it from a completely different angle.

From land, you admire their formation. From the water, you feel their scale. Perspective changes everything.

Coastal Cruise: Eaglehawk Neck to Tasman Island

A Pennicott Wilderness Journey’s cruise boat departs Eaglehawk Neck for a cruise along the Tasman Peninsula’s coastline.

 

Cruising beneath the cliffs of Tasman National Park is a humbling experience. The shift in perspective is immediate, as the land’s scale, power, and movement are tangible in ways that clifftop views hint at but never fully convey.

As our boat moved into open water, those cliffs I had previously admired took on a whole new story. They had seemed tall when standing on them and looking down, but somehow, they rose even higher from sea level.

Every bend in the coastline revealed something new, from narrow inlets and jagged outcrops to sheer rock faces plunging straight into the ocean, their height and scale impossible to grasp from the clifftops. Towering dolerite columns rose vertically from the Southern Ocean as waves surged into hidden caves. Seabirds soared overhead, while seals rested on sunlit rocks, casting only the occasional glance in our direction.

From the water, the coastline I had earlier explored on foot looked significantly more dramatic and imposing.

Stunning Coastal Scenery

Tasman Arch – Seen from the Sea

Tasman Arch offered the clearest example of how perspective reshapes experience. From the clifftop lookout, I had watched waves surge through it far below. But only from the boat did I truly feel the immense height of the arch.

A bridge-like rock structure in the cliff face.

Tasman Arch viewed from the sea – a different perspective.

 

Incredible Rock Formations and Coastal Islands

Located off Cape Hauy, the iconic Totem Pole is a 65-metre-high dolerite sea stack. At only 4 metres wide at the base, it defies gravity as the Southern Ocean’s forces batter it. According to our boat guide, “It swings in the wind and shudders with each crashing wave”. However, this does not deter rock climbers, as it is considered one of the world’s most iconic and challenging rock climbs.

The narrow sea stack known as the Totem Pole.

 

Adjacent to the Totem Pole is The Candlestick, a broader, 120-metre-high dolerite sea stack. Like the Totem Pole, it is considered one of Australia’s most challenging and inaccessible rock-climbing sites, with access requiring a 10-metre swim.

Do rock climbers have a death wish?

Two famous sea stacks, the narrow Totem Pole and the wider Candlestick, stand side by side off Cape Hauy.

 

Tasman Island

Tasman Island is located at the south-eastern tip of the Tasman Peninsula, just 500 metres across the passage from Cape Pillar. It is a rugged, isolated, windswept rock with fortress-like grey basalt columns rising 240 metres straight out of the sea.

Tasman Island, with the steam winch used to hoist supplies up the island’s steep incline. Today, supplies are delivered by helicopter.

 

Atop the island is Tasman Island Lighthouse, one of Australia’s most inaccessible lighthouses. With its harsh, remote conditions, being posted there was so unpopular that it was once likened to the infamous American island prison, Alcatraz. It was even known to have driven numerous lightkeepers mad.

It is Australia’s highest operating lighthouse – a beacon for seafarers entering Storm Bay – and a key landmark for the famous Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race.

Tasman Island Lighthouse.

 

Wildlife Encounters

Tasman National Park is home to seals, dolphins, penguins and whales, as well as endangered bird species such as the Swift Parrot, Wedge-tailed Eagle and Tasmanian Sea Eagle.

How to Get There and Other Travel Tips

I visited Tasman National Park’s clifftop formations during a 10-day bus tour of Tasmania with Fun Over 50 Holidays. The itinerary included stops at Tasman Arch, Devils Kitchen, and the Tessellated Pavement en route to the famous penal colony of Port Arthur. However, day tours from Hobart to these destinations are also available through Viator and GetYourGuide.

The three-hour boat cruise along the Tasman Peninsula coastline, from Eaglehawk Neck to Tasman Island and back, was with Pennicott Wilderness Journeys on their “Tasman Island Wildlife Cruise”. It was taken on my second trip to Tasmania on a shore excursion from a cruise ship. However, you don’t need to be sailing on a cruise ship to experience Pennicott’s Tasman Island Cruise, as you can drive to Port Arthur, where the cruise departs, or join their full-day tour from Hobart.

You will get wet on this cruise. However, Pennicott Wilderness Journeys decked us all out in bright red raincoats that covered us from head to toe.

The waters of the Southern Ocean collide with the towering sea cliffs of the Tasman Peninsula, known for powerful swells and rough seas. On the day I took this cruise, there were extremely high winds, rough seas, and a large swell. Pennicott Wilderness Journeys offered us ginger travel calm tablets – a non-drowsy formula containing natural ginger root to help reduce motion sickness, nausea, and vomiting. As someone prone to seasickness, I took two tablets. I am pleased to report that I experienced no seasickness throughout the cruise.

Summer (December to February) is the best time to visit Tasman National Park, particularly the Tasman Peninsula. Days are warm and dry, making them ideal for hiking and wilderness cruises. Even in summer, Tasmania can experience four seasons in one day, so pack layers, including thermals, a fleece, and a rain jacket.

 

Looking back through these images, what stays with me most is not just the height of the cliffs or the precision of the Tessellated Pavement, but how differently the same coastline felt depending on where I stood. From the land, I noticed shapes, patterns, and sweeping views. From the water, I felt scale, movement, and the sea’s constant presence. Seeing Tasman Arch from above and then again from below made that shift unmistakable. The formation hadn’t changed, but my perspective had. 

If you’re visiting Tasman National Park, allow time for both experiences. The clifftop lookouts are accessible and striking, but the coastal cruise adds another dimension that brings you closer to the rock face, into the swell, and alongside the wildlife that calls this coast home. 

Whether standing at the edge of the Southern Ocean or moving beneath towering rock walls, Tasman National Park is a reminder that how you experience a landscape matters as much as where you go. Only from both perspectives do you fully understand this wild corner of Tasmania.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2026.

 

Have you ever experienced the same place in two completely different ways, and which perspective stayed with you the most? I’d love to hear your story. Share it in the comments below.

 

Like this post? Save it for later!

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

Sign up to receive the latest in travel destinations, topics, resources and guides.

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A steam locomotive with two carriages stands at a station.FROM QUEENSTOWN INTO THE WILDERNESS ABOARD TASMANIA’S HISTORIC TRAIN. Discover Tasmania’s West Coast Wilderness Railway: a historic steam train journey through rainforest, dramatic landscapes, and mining history, with premium onboard dining and immersive storytelling.

 

© Just Me Travel 2018-2026. All rights reserved.

 

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FROM QUEENSTOWN INTO THE WILDERNESS ABOARD TASMANIA’S HISTORIC TRAIN

My Unbiased Review of Tasmania’s West Coast Wilderness Railway.   Tasmania’s West Coast Wilderness Railway is much more than a scenic train ride, as the slower pace makes the journey…

My Unbiased Review of Tasmania’s West Coast Wilderness Railway.

 

Tasmania’s West Coast Wilderness Railway is much more than a scenic train ride, as the slower pace makes the journey itself the highlight. It travels through some of the island’s most remote and dramatic landscapes, following tracks built initially to serve the booming late-19th-century mining industry and now restored as a heritage experience. Dense rainforest, deep river valleys, and weathered remnants of the past unfold slowly outside the carriage windows.

I joined the West Coast Wilderness Railway in Queenstown for its Rinadeena, Rack & Rainforest expedition, travelling in the Wilderness (Premium) Carriage, where the combination of comfort, onboard dining, attentive service, and unhurried storytelling made the three-hour journey genuinely memorable.

This post is a detailed personal review of my experience and shares photos from the journey through one of Tasmania’s most remote regions.

 

About the West Coast Wilderness Railway

The West Coast Wilderness Railway is a historic 34.5-kilometre tourist railway linking Queenstown and Strahan on Tasmania’s rugged west coast, built through cliffs, rivers, and rainforest. It is renowned for using restored 120-year-old steam locomotives and the rare Abt rack-and-pinion (cogwheel) system to climb steep, dense rainforest terrain. Initially built in the 1890s to transport copper from the Mount Lyell mines, the railway offers heritage, wilderness, and dining experiences.

Rack-and-pinion railways are specialised mountain railways designed for extremely steep gradients. The West Coast Wilderness Railway has three kilometres of rack-and-pinion track to haul the train up the mountain between Rinadeena Station and Dubbil Barril Station. In this section, the train climbs from 90 metres above sea level to 270 metres over 2.5 kilometres, reaching a gradient of 1 in 16 and using 3,000 litres of water to cover that distance. It is the steepest steam railway journey in the Southern Hemisphere.

My West Coast Wilderness Railway steam train experience was on the “Rinadeena, Rack and Rainforest” 3-hour expedition, departing Queenstown and featuring off-train activities at Lynchford and Rinadeena stations, with views of the King River and ancient temperate rainforests.

The railway crosses the King River Gorge, a popular spot for river rafters.

 

This wilderness railway trip was an included excursion on Fun Over 50 Holidays’ 10-day Tasmina tour. It was one of the many highlights of the trip.

Choosing the Wilderness (Premium) Carriage

Travelling in the Wilderness (Premium) Carriage was the decision of Fun Over 50 Holidays when creating the itinerary – an excellent decision at that!

West Coast Wilderness Railway offers two very different carriage experiences. The Heritage (Standard) Carriage features upholstered seating and large windows for scenic viewing. The carriage can accommodate up to 40 passengers.

At the time of writing, the price for travel in the Heritage (Standard) Carriage is $95 per adult and $75 per child. Family tickets are available.

In contrast, the Wilderness (Premium) Carriage offers a more exclusive, relaxed, and personal travel experience:

  • Fewer passengers (a maximum of 26),
  • Spacious, comfortable leather booth seating with tables,
  • Attentive service,
  • Food and beverages served on board,
  • A dedicated host who shares stories and historical insights throughout the journey, and
  • A balcony for up close images as you wind your way through the rainforest.

At the time of writing, the price for travel in the Wilderness (Premium) Carriage is $135 per person. No family tickets are available.

Is the premium upgrade worth it? Absolutely!

The Journey: Highlights Along the Route

Map of the West Coast Wilderness Railway’s Rinadeena, Rack & Rainforest route, which starts and ends in Queenstown.

 

With its hillsides left bare by 19th-century copper mining, deforestation, and sulphur fumes, Queenstown is not a pretty town. However, soon after leaving the station, the train begins to wind its way through mountainous scenery characterised by dense, cool-temperate rainforest, steep, rocky terrain, and deep, lush gullies.

Railway track with cog-wheel tack in rainforest.

The train travels through cool-temperate rainforest as it climbs the mountainous terrain.

 

The journey includes several stops along the route, offering opportunities to stretch our legs, photograph the landscape, and learn more about the region’s mining history.

At Lynchford Station, in a historic former gold-mining area, we could try our hand at gold panning, explore the Pioneer Room to learn about the area’s history, or walk alongside the Queen River through the rainforest.

Don’t leave Lynchford Station without pouring a cup of black coffee into the orange-coloured Queen River beside the station. The river is so polluted from historic copper mining upstream that the black coffee turns green when it hits the water. The Wilderness Carriage host showed this ‘trick’ to a friend and me.

Lynchford marks the start of the steep, dramatic climb through temperate rainforest, mountainous terrain, and rugged wilderness towards Rinadeena. Before reaching Rinadeena, the train uses the three-kilometre rack-and-pinion system to ascend the steep grade, beginning just beyond Halls Creek Siding and ending just before Dubbil Barril Station. It is the steepest incline of any railway in the Southern Hemisphere.

The steam locomotive takes on water on the Rinadeena, Rack & Rainforest journey.

 

We stopped for half an hour at Rinadeena Saddle. The station offers breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and untouched rainforest, especially from its overhead bridge. It is here that you realise how remote and inaccessible the area is.

The last stop was at Dubbil Barril Station on the northern bank of the King River. It is the turnaround point for the West Coast Wilderness Railway, where the steam locomotive is turned on a turntable to reconnect with the carriages for the return journey to Queenstown.

The time taken to turn the steam locomotive around allowed me to explore the rainforest adjacent to the station.

A walk through the rainforest at Dubbil Barril Station.

 

Food and Drink in the Wilderness Carriage

One of the perks of travelling in the Wilderness (Premium) Carriage was the onboard catering included in the fare, a service not provided in the Heritage (Standard) Carriage, where snacks and drinks can be purchased on board or at stations along the way.

Boarding our Wilderness Carriage, we were welcomed with a glass of wine or orange juice and canapés as we departed Queenstown Station. Morning tea and lunch were served at our table during the journey, allowing us to chat with new friends and watch the landscape slowly pass by.

The quality and presentation of the catering elevated the journey, turning the day trip into a dining experience as well as a historic steam train ride. It added a relaxed rhythm to the day and reinforced that this was indeed a premium experience to be savoured by all the senses.

Service and Onboard Experience

Service throughout the journey was warm, knowledgeable, and unobtrusive. The Wilderness Carriage host shared stories and historical context without overwhelming the experience, striking a balance between informative and relaxed.

Questions were welcome, and the host showed genuine pride in the railway and its history. Combined with the slower pace of travel, the service helped create an immersive atmosphere rather than a rushed one.

 

Travelling aboard Tasmania’s West Coast Wilderness Railway was not just a scenic train ride. As we travelled through dense rainforest, alongside rivers and past relics of a brutal mining past, the journey itself became the highlight. The combination of a heritage steam locomotive, the rare rack-and-pinion climb, and the attentive hospitality of the Wilderness (Premium) Carriage transformed the Rinadeena, Rack & Rainforest journey into an unforgettable adventure.

Whether you’re a railway enthusiast, a lover of the wilderness, or simply seeking a unique Tasmanian experience, the West Coast Wilderness Railway from Queenstown offers a journey that lingers long after you return home.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2026.

 

Are you planning your own trip to Tasmania and have questions about the West Coast Railway? Drop them below, and I’ll be happy to help.

 

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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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SAVANNAH WAY ROAD TRIP: Cool Off in 5 Crocodile-Free Swimming Holes

From Mataranka Thermal Pool, Butterfly Falls, and Lorella Springs Wilderness Park to Hell’s Gate Roadhouse and Copperfield Gorge – Five Swimming Holes in Australia’s Top End.   Driving Australia’s Savannah…

From Mataranka Thermal Pool, Butterfly Falls, and Lorella Springs Wilderness Park to Hell’s Gate Roadhouse and Copperfield Gorge – Five Swimming Holes in Australia’s Top End.

 

Driving Australia’s Savannah Way is one of those epic outback adventures that stays with you long after the dust settles. Stretching over 3,700 kilometres from Broome in Western Australia to Cairns in Queensland, the route winds through monsoon rainforest, open savannah, and some of the most remote parts of northern Australia.

I travelled this legendary route with APT (Australian Pacific Touring) on their 12-Day Savannah Explorer 4WD Tour, journeying from Darwin to Cairns (a reverse trip from Cairns to Darwin is also available). With APT’s expert guides leading the way, the experience offered the right balance of comfort and adventure – from rugged landscapes to natural hot springs and hidden gorges. 

But there’s one question that comes up time and again when exploring Australia’s Top End: Can you swim here? 

In crocodile country, finding a safe swimming spot is like striking gold. While the region is famous for its wild waterways and thermal springs, you can never assume they’re crocodile-free. During my journey along the Savannah Way, I discovered several places where you can usually swim safely – though, as always, you must check with locals before diving in. 

Here are five refreshing (usually) crocodile-free swimming holes along the Savannah Way – from the Northern Territory’s tropical springs to Queensland’s rocky gorges.

 

Important Safety Note

Before you dip a toe in any northern Australian waterway, remember: no swimming spot is ever guaranteed to be 100% crocodile-free. Conditions can change overnight, especially after heavy rains, when crocodiles might move into new areas.

Always take these precautions before swimming:

  • Ask locals or park rangers about current conditions – they know best.
  • Look for warning signs and never ignore them.
  • Avoid swimming at dawn or dusk, when crocodiles are most active.
  • Never swim alone.

Respecting these simple safety rules ensures your outback adventure remains safe and memorable.

The Swimming Holes Along the Savannah Way

From thermal pools shaded by palm trees to deep outback gorges carved by time, these five swimming spots were highlights of my trip. They were ideal for soothing sore muscles or cooling off after long, dusty drives. I swam in all of them.

Mataranka Thermal Pool (Elsey National Park, Northern Territory)

[642 Homestead Road, Mataranka, NT 0852]

Mataranka Thermal Pool is a series of geothermal hot springs surrounded by paperbark trees and nestled in a lush palm forest within Elsey National Park. The pool has a sandy bottom, and its crystal-clear water stays a warm 34°C year-round. It felt like swimming in an open-air spa!

A person swimming in a hot spring that is surronded by gum trees and palms.

Swimming in the Mataranka Thermal Pool is like soaking in a hot bath!

 

The pool is an easy 500-metre return walk from the car park along a paved path. There are stairs with handrails leading into the pool.

Mataranka Thermal Pool is free to visit, and you don’t need a permit for the national park.

The area was made famous by the novel We of the Never Never, an Australian classic by Jeannie Gunn (writing under the name of her husband, Aeneas Gunn), which tells of her life on Elsey Station around 1902.

The Katherine Visitor Information Centre says Mataranka Thermal Pool is one of the few easily accessible spots in the region where you can swim without the threat of saltwater crocodiles. However, while generally considered safe for swimming, it’s best to check with park rangers first, as conditions can change.

Butterfly Falls (Limmen National Park, Northern Territory)

[via Nathan River Road, Limmen, NT 0852]

The drive to the remote Butterfly Falls passes through open savannah and along red dirt tracks. However, upon arrival, you find a serene oasis in an otherwise rugged landscape.

Three people swimming in a natural pool created by a waterfall cascading down red cliffs.

Escaping the heat in the clear pool surrounded by red cliffs at Butterfly Falls.

 

The waterfall cascades in the wet season and trickles in the dry into a beautiful, naturally formed waterhole surrounded by lush vegetation and red sandstone cliffs. It’s a magical spot to cool off.

Butterfly Falls is named for the thousands of Common Crow butterflies that fill the area in the dry season.

Common Crow butterflies cling to the cool of the cliff face at Butterfly Falls.

 

Butterfly Falls is the only crocodile-safe swimming spot in Limmen National Park. However, even here, always check with rangers to confirm it’s safe to swim, especially after heavy rain.

Limmen National Park requires visitors to have a Northern Territory Parks Pass, available online.

Lorella Springs Wilderness Park – Thermal Springs and Rosie Creek

[via Borroloola, NT 0854]

Few places capture the essence of outback adventure quite like Lorella Springs Wilderness Park. This one-million-acre outback cattle station, a wilderness of untamed beauty, offers visitors the chance to explore and unwind in a landscape of escarpments, billabongs, and hidden springs.

The thermal spring near the homestead, called “Magical Spring”, is one of Lorella’s top attractions. It features warm, clear, flowing water in a rock pool shaded by palm trees, creating an atmosphere of total relaxation.

A guest at Lorella Springs relaxes in the thermal pool near the homestead.

 

For something a bit more adventurous, head out to Stock Camp Swimming Hole on Rosie Creek, one of Lorella Springs Wilderness Park’s most peaceful and scenic waterholes – an outback oasis deep within the park.  Our APT guides referred to this swimming hole as the Stock Yards. The creek has a shallow, sandy bottom with tall paperbarks and pandanus palms lining its banks. The water was clear and refreshing.

Despite there being 18 of us swimming and picnicking on Rosie Creek, it was quiet and peaceful, like my own private sanctuary. It felt utterly remote!

People swimming in a shallow creek with gum trees lining its banks.

Stock Camp Swimming Hole on Rosie Creek is one of the most beautiful places to swim along the Savannah Way.

 

Lorella’s staff are always aware of crocodile movements and will advise you on safe swimming spots – essential in this remote part of the Gulf region.

Please note: Since 2023, Lorella Springs Wilderness Park has been closed to self-drive independent visitors due to Northern Territory bureaucracy and ‘red tape’. The park is now accessible only to visitors on pre-booked, organised outback tour groups.

Hell’s Gate Roadhouse (Cliffdale Station, Queensland)

[Westmoreland Road, QLD, on the Savannah Way]

Crossing into Queensland, about 50 kilometres from the Northern Territory border along a remote stretch of the Savannah Way, Hell’s Gate feels like the edge of the world, with its vast, open landscape and endless sky.

About 200 metres from the accommodation block, you’ll find a sandy-bottom swimming hole surrounded by the red dirt and eucalyptus trees typical of outback Australia – a refreshing spot to cool off.

A waterhole surrounded by gum trees and red dirt.

Who wouldn’t be tempted to take a dip in this picturesque swimming hole at Hell’s Gate Roadhouse?

 

Given how remote Hell’s Gate Roadhouse is, always check with the roadhouse staff before swimming. They’ll know whether it’s safe, as crocodiles can occasionally move through nearby creeks after rain.

Copperfield Gorge (Einasleigh, Queensland)

[Gregory Development Road, Einasleigh, QLD 4871]

Further east in Queensland’s Gulf Country, the landscape changes again, and Copperfield Gorge stands out as one of the region’s most striking natural formations, with its deep chasms, rockpools, peaceful beaches, and narrow channels.

A narrow gorge with basalt cliffs.

Swim with the locals at the stunning Copperfield Gorge.

 

Located just a short walk from the old copper mining town of Einasleigh on the Savannah Way alternate route, the gorge has been carved over time by the Copperfield River, creating sheer basalt walls that drop into a sandy riverbed and exposing ancient lava flow layers. It’s a stunning spot to walk along its walls, take a swim, and capture photos of the contrasting colours.

In truth, Copperfield Gorge isn’t ‘crocodile-free’, as locals say there are freshwater crocodiles in the gorge, but they will leave you alone if you do the same. Still, I feel it’s my duty to warn you that you swim at your own risk.

A note on freshwater crocodiles:

Freshwater crocodiles (Johnston River Freshwater Crocodiles) are less aggressive and dangerous than saltwater crocodiles (Estuarine Crocodiles). They are generally shy and will flee from people but will defend themselves if provoked – if they feel cornered, are startled, or are defending a nest. While bites typically cause injuries like puncture wounds and lacerations, there are no known fatalities from freshwater crocodile attacks in Australia.

How to avoid an attack from a freshwater crocodile:

  • Do not disturb or try to catch a freshwater crocodile.
  • Keep at least ten metres away from them, even if they seem to be sleeping.
  • Never feed wild crocodiles or leave food scraps near water sources, as this can encourage them to associate humans with food.
  • Keep pets on a lead and away from the water’s edge.
  • Be especially cautious at night, dusk, and dawn. Crocodiles are more likely to be hunting during these times and are harder to spot.

Practical Information – Planning Your Savannah Way Adventure

The Savannah Way spans a vast distance, connecting tropical rainforests, cattle stations, national parks, and small outback towns. To get the most out of your trip, plan carefully, especially when heading into remote areas.

Best time to go:

Travel the Savannah Way during the dry season (April to October) when you will experience cooler weather and easier access to remote areas.

Avoid the wet season (November to March), as sections of the Savannah Way can be affected by heavy rain, causing flooding, impassable river crossings, and bringing crocodiles into new waterways.

Road and travel tips:

  • Some stretches of the Savannah Way are unsealed and better suited to a 4WD vehicle.
  • Carry plenty of water, fuel, and food as services are far apart.
  • Stay in national park campgrounds, roadhouses, or remote stations for an authentic outback experience.
  • Check road conditions regularly through local councils or traveller information centres.

Crocodile Safety Summary

  • Always check with locals or rangers before swimming.
  • Obey any warning signs.
  • Avoid swimming at night, dawn, or dusk.
  • Stay out if you’re unsure – the outback is beautiful, but it demands respect.

If you’re tracing my route, these five swimming holes form a memorable line across the top of Australia – from Mataranka in the Northern Territory to Einasleigh in Queensland.

 

Exploring the Savannah Way is an adventure in every sense – wide horizons, rugged country, and those rare, magical moments when a cool, clear swimming hole appears in the middle of the outback. From the tropical warmth of Mataranka Thermal Pool and the tranquillity of Butterfly Falls to the remote serenity of Lorella Springs, the rugged beauty of Hell’s Gate, and the striking landscape of Copperfield Gorge, each stop offers a unique way to experience the heart of northern Australia.

While these swimming holes are usually considered crocodile-free, conditions can change at any time. Always speak with locals, rangers, or tour guides before entering the water to ensure conditions are safe on the day you visit. 

Whether you’re travelling independently or on a 4WD tour like APT’s Savannah Explorer, these refreshing pools, creeks, and gorges show that the outback isn’t just red dirt and wide-open spaces – it’s full of surprising, unforgettable places to swim, unwind, and connect with the landscape.  

If you’re planning your own Savannah Way trip, be sure to include these swimming holes. They’re some of the region’s true highlights.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025.

 

If you could travel to one of the swimming holes in this post right now, which one would it be?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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An image with two photos: a creek with a beach and black and white butterflies clinging to a cliff face.

An image with two photos: a waterhole and a creek.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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UNDARA: SEE AMAZING LAVA TUBES AND STAY IN UNIQUE ACCOMMODATION

Only in Undara Volcanic National Park, in Outback Queensland, Can You Combine a Guided Tour of Ancient Lava Tubes with a Stay in a Heritage Railway Carriage.   Deep in…

Only in Undara Volcanic National Park, in Outback Queensland, Can You Combine a Guided Tour of Ancient Lava Tubes with a Stay in a Heritage Railway Carriage.

 

Deep in the heart of outback Queensland lies one of Australia’s most fascinating geological wonders – the Undara Lava Tubes. Here, ancient volcanic activity has shaped vast underground tunnels, now silent witnesses to millions of years of natural history. My visit to Undara Volcanic National Park combined adventure and nostalgia – exploring the incredible lava tubes by day and sleeping in a beautifully restored turn-of-the-century railway carriage at Discovery Resorts – Undara by night. It was a perfect mix of geology, history, and outback hospitality.

I visited Undara Lava Tubes with APT (Australian Pacific Touring) on their 12-Day Savannah Explorer 4WD Tour, travelling from Darwin to Cairns along the Savannah Way.

 

About Undara Volcanic National Park

Situated on the McBride Volcanic Province, about 275 kilometres southwest of Cairns and around 420 kilometres northwest of Townsville, Undara Volcanic National Park is part of the Gulf Savannah region in outback Tropical North Queensland. The park features one of the world’s longest lava tube systems, formed over 190,000 years ago when the Undara Volcano erupted. This event caused molten lava to flow over 160 kilometres across the landscape, mainly down the western side of the Great Dividing Range – the world’s longest flow from a single volcano. This flow created the geological phenomenon now known as the Undara Lava Tubes.

As the outer layers of the lava cooled and hardened, the molten lava inside continued to flow, eventually draining away to create hollow tubes – nature’s own underground corridors. Today, the Undara Lava Tubes provide a rare opportunity to explore the remains of this ancient eruption and marvel at nature’s power.

‘Undara’ is an Aboriginal word meaning ‘long way’ – a fitting name for one of the world’s longest lava tube cave systems.

The Undara Lava Tubes Tour 

Access to the lava tubes is only possible through a guided tour to ensure visitor safety and protect the fragile environment.

After settling into our historic railway carriage accommodation at Discovery Resorts – Undara, our APT group joined our experienced Savannah Guide for the leisurely, two-hour Archway Explorer Lava Tube Tour.

Map displaying the Undara Lava Tubes and the accessible volcanic caves inside the tubes.

 

As it happened, our guide was a geologist who was very informative, easy to understand, and entertaining, keeping us engaged throughout the tour.

The Archway Explorer Lava Tube Tour is so named because of the archway formed when a weaker section of the lava tube’s roof collapsed. Descending through the archway and into the lava tube was an eerie experience, offering a breathtaking glimpse into the ancient forces that shaped Australia’s landscape. The drop in temperature, the increasing darkness, and the unique mosaic colours on the ceiling as I went further into the hollow lava tube felt like stepping into another world.

Descending the steps through the volcanic archway to the entrance of the lava tube.

 

The tour guides you along boardwalks and stairs with handrails that are suitable for most people. It is not accessible for wheelchairs or strollers.

Two woman descend stairs to the boardwalk that lead inside a cave.

The Archway Explorer Lava Tube Tour took us inside the hollow volcanic tube.

 

The unique mosaic appearance of the lava tube ceilings is created by mineral deposits seeping through the volcanic rock and by the oxidation of iron, which rusts over time.

 

Our guide took us to the entrance of a larger lava tube, but we weren’t allowed inside for safety reasons due to a recent roof collapse.

Tips:

  • Wear enclosed shoes, a hat, and sunscreen.
  • Bring a camera and a water bottle.
  • Tours run throughout the operating season (April to October) but can vary in duration and accessibility depending on the weather.

Staying at Discovery Resorts – Undara

Discovery Resorts – Undara is located on the edge of the Undara Volcanic National Park and is one with nature.

Our APT tour group was accommodated in the resort’s charming heritage railway carriages, which have won Australian Tourism Awards in the unique accommodation category. Built in the early 1900s, they have been lovingly refurbished to provide a cosy, comfortable stay. While each carriage retains its vintage character, with polished timber, brass fittings, and period furnishings, there is no shortage of comfort – with private en-suites, tea and coffee-making facilities, a small fridge, and air conditioning.

The historic, turn-of-the-century train carriage accommodation at Discovery Resorts – Undara.

 

 

The renovated railway carriage’s en-suite was small but sufficient.

 

There’s something delightfully nostalgic about falling asleep in a train carriage surrounded by the sounds of the Australian bush. It was the best night’s sleep I had all trip!

The railway carriages are not Discovery Resorts – Undara’s only means of accommodation, as they aim to cater to every budget with a variety of options – from Pioneer Huts and homesteads to powered and unpowered sites and swag tents.

Discovery Resorts – Undara doesn’t just stop at accommodation. I had a delicious lunch and dinner at the resort’s fully licensed restaurant, the Fettler’s Iron Pot Bistro. The meals were good country cooking, and the service was excellent.

Please note that all accommodation and dining facilities at Discovery Resorts – Undara are closed from November to March.

Other Things to Do While Staying at Discovery Resorts – Undara

One night’s stay at Discovery Resort – Undara was too short, as I didn’t get the opportunity to explore Undara Volcanic National Park’s walking trails. The resort offers self-guided bushwalking trails that wind through open savannah, leading to scenic viewpoints and wildlife-rich areas.

Also available is the Wildlife at Sunset Tour, where your guide will identify native wildlife and bird species as the outback sky turns fiery red and orange – all while enjoying sparkling wine and nibbles, before heading to the entrance of a lava tube to watch microbats emerge at night.

Don’t leave Undara without trying the resort’s Bush Breakfast served daily at Ringers’ Camp, just a short walk from the resort. Sitting on logs with ingenious cup holders, surrounded by the bush, and watched over by kookaburras, it’s a truly unique experience. Enjoy a continental and cooked buffet-style breakfast, along with freshly boiled billy tea as you toast your own bread over the campfire.

People gather around outdoor open fires and a bar-b-que, boiling tea and cooking breakfast.

The Undara Bush Breakfast – an experience you shouldn’t miss.

 

How to Get There 

Undara Volcanic National Park is located about a 3.5-hour drive southwest of Cairns along the Savannah Way in Tropical North Queensland. The journey itself is part of the adventure, taking you through remote outback scenery and small country towns.

The easiest way to reach Undara is by car, as it gives you the flexibility to explore at your own pace. The road to Undara is sealed all the way from Cairns, Townsville, and Georgetown, suitable for 2WD and 4WD vehicles and towing a caravan. Guided tours and transfers from Cairns are also available through several operators.

I visited Undara as part of APT’s 12-day Savannah Explorer 4WD tour, which follows the Savannah Way from Darwin to Cairns (a reverse trip from Cairns to Darwin is also available) – an excellent option for travellers who prefer a fully guided experience without the hassle of self-driving.

Please note that Discovery Resorts – Undara and the lava tube tours operate seasonally, open from 1 April to 30 October each year. Outside these dates, access to the resort and guided tours is unavailable, so plan your trip accordingly.

When to go 

The Undara Lava Tubes and Discovery Resorts – Undara are open seasonally, from 1 April to 30 October each year. This period corresponds with northern Queensland’s dry season, when the days are typically warm and sunny, humidity is low, and evenings are cooler – ideal for exploring the outback. During these months, roads are easily accessible, tours operate regularly, and walking trails are open.

From November to March, both the resort and lava tube tours close for the wet season, when heavy rainfall makes access difficult.

So, plan your visit between April and October when Undara’s landscapes are at their most inviting and you can fully enjoy both the geological wonders and the unique accommodation.

 

Visiting Undara Volcanic National Park was like uncovering one of Australia’s best-kept natural secrets. Exploring the Undara Lava Tubes showcased the incredible power of the Earth’s ancient forces, while sleeping in a heritage railway carriage at Discovery Resorts – Undara was a unique and nostalgic experience that captured the true spirit of the Australian outback.

Whether you come to marvel at the underground creativity of nature, explore the expansive savannah landscape, or enjoy unusual accommodation, Undara is a destination you shouldn’t miss. It’s a place where Earth’s history meets human ingenuity and where the outback truly comes alive.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025.

 

If you were planning a trip to the Australian outback, would you choose a guided lava tube tour with an overnight stay in a heritage train carriage? Why or why not?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

Like this post? Save it for later! 

an image with two photos: descending wooden steps under a rock arch and a heritage red train carriage.

An image with two photos: a map showing lava tubes and caves and a wodden boaradwalk inside the lava tube.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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© Just Me Travel 2018-2025. All rights reserved.

 

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COOL OFF IN TROPICAL PARADISE: 5 Top Swimming Holes Near Cairns

A Traveller’s Guide to Wonderful Swimming Holes in Northern Queensland’s Rainforest.   Cairns may be best known as the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef, but venture inland and you’ll…

A Traveller’s Guide to Wonderful Swimming Holes in Northern Queensland’s Rainforest.

 

Cairns may be best known as the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef, but venture inland and you’ll discover another side of Tropical North Queensland – a lush world of rainforest, waterfalls, and natural swimming holes. With warm, humid weather all year round, there’s nothing more refreshing than plunging into a cool rainforest pool after a morning of exploring.

From volcanic crater lakes to postcard-perfect waterfalls, Tropical North Queensland is dotted with swimming holes that feel like hidden gems. The best part? Many of them are perfect for easy day trips from Cairns. 

During my four days in Cairns, I joined two tours to make the most of my rainforest swims. The Waterfall Wanderers Tour with Cairns Adventure Group took me to Lake Eacham, Millaa Millaa Falls, Josephine Falls, and Babinda Boulders – a full day of rainforest lakes and waterfalls. To round out the experience, I joined the Daintree, Mossman Gorge & Wildlife Tour with Tropic Wings Cairns Tours, which combined swimming at Mossman Gorge with a visit to a wildlife sanctuary and the chance to see one of the world’s oldest rainforests.

 

Why Swim in Tropical North Queensland’s Rainforest?

When most travellers think of Cairns, the Great Barrier Reef usually springs to mind. But venture inland and you’ll find another side of Tropical North Queensland – a lush, green landscape of waterfalls, crystal-clear creeks and rivers, and volcanic crater lakes tucked away in the rainforest. Here, swimming isn’t just about cooling off in the tropical heat; it’s about immersing oneself in nature at its most pristine.

Tropical North Queensland’s rainforest swimming holes are fed by clear mountain streams, shaded by towering trees, and teeming with wildlife – for the first time, I saw a platypus in its natural habitat. You won’t find chlorinated pools or crowded beaches here – instead, you’ll float beneath waterfalls, slide down smooth granite rocks, or wade into calm lakes formed thousands of years ago.

These waterholes also deepen our connection with the land. Some, like Babinda Boulders and Mossman Gorge, are important to Indigenous communities, reminding us to swim with respect and care. Safety remains crucial, as conditions can change rapidly in the tropics. Always follow local signs and advice.

Swimming in Queensland’s tropical rainforest is about more than just taking a dip – it’s an adventure that combines relaxation with the chance to connect with one of the most ancient landscapes on Earth.

The 5 Best Rainforest Swimming Holes Near Cairns

Tropical North Queensland’s rainforest is scattered with natural swimming holes, each offering its own appeal – from peaceful volcanic lakes to tumbling waterfalls and granite-edged gorges. Whether you’re after a refreshing swim, a chance to connect with nature, or that perfect photo spot, these five swimming holes near Cairns showcase some of the region’s top rainforest escapes.

Lake Eacham – A volcanic crater turned crystal-clear oasis

Lake Eacham’s calm, crystal-clear blue waters make it a tranquil, natural swimming spot.

 

Just over an hour’s drive from Cairns, Lake Eacham is part of Crater Lakes National Park and one of the Atherton Tablelands’ most inviting swimming holes. Formed more than 10,000 years ago by a volcanic eruption, this crater lake is now a tranquil pool of deep, clear blue water surrounded by dense rainforest.

The lake’s still surface makes it perfect for a refreshing swim or a leisurely float while soaking up the sounds of the rainforest. Unlike some of the region’s waterfalls, there are no strong currents here – just a peaceful, natural swimming hole to relax and take your time.

Facilities make it easy to enjoy a few hours at Lake Eacham. There’s a grassy picnic spot, toilets, and a shaded walking trail that goes around the lake. With water access points easy to reach, you can step straight in for a swim.

Lake Eacham feels miles from Cairns, but it’s close enough for a relaxed day trip. It’s a spot to unwind, take it easy, and swim in a lake formed by fire but cooled by the rainforest.

Don’t let the freshwater crocodile living in Lake Eacham deter you from swimming. Unlike saltwater crocodiles, freshwater crocodiles are usually shy and don’t threaten humans. However, this croc may become aggressive and cause injury if you threaten it.

Millaa Millaa Falls – Swim beneath Queensland’s most photographed waterfall

Several people swim in the pluge pool created by a waterfall.

Miller Millaa Falls is the most iconic waterfall in Queensland’s Atherton Tablelands and a popular swimming hole.

 

Millaa Millaa Falls is a state heritage-listed postcard-worthy waterfall on Queensland’s Atherton Tablelands. Featuring a stunning, curtain-like 18-metre cascade into a clear, natural pool, and surrounded by lush rainforest, Millaa Millaa Falls is famous for its picturesque beauty and is one of the most photographed waterfalls in Australia. The falls have been used as a backdrop for shampoo and beer ads and featured in the music video for Peter Andre’s “Mysterious Girl”.

The plunge pool at the base of the falls is safe and perfect for a swim. Step in and enjoy the refreshing water, or swim right up to the waterfall’s curtain for a revitalising shower.

Facilities at Millaa Millaa Falls include BBQs, picnic tables, shelters, toilets, and change rooms, making it an ideal stop for a day trip. The car park’s proximity to the falls ensures quick and easy access, allowing visitors to experience this natural wonder without having to walk far.

Josephine Falls – Slide into adventure at nature’s water playground

A multi-tierd waterfall, surrounded by rainforest, tumbles over massive granite boulders.

Josephine Falls is a picturesque, mult-level cascade waterfall in Far North Queensland.

 

Located in Wooroonooran National Park on Josephine Creek, Josephine Falls is the perfect spot for a mix of relaxation and fun. Fed by rainwater from Queensland’s highest peak, Mount Bartle Frere, this multi-tiered waterfall tumbles over massive granite boulders into emerald-green pools surrounded by tropical rainforest.

The lower swimming area is safe, with peaceful pools that are perfect for cooling off. However, the main draw for many visitors is the natural rock slide in the middle tier – a smooth granite slope where you can slide into the pool below. It’s nature’s waterslide, and it makes Josephine Falls one of the most exciting, adrenaline-pumping swimming spots in the region.

From Josephine Falls’ car park, the waterfalls, viewing decks, and swimming areas are accessed via a stunning 700-metre rainforest walk that is a bitumen-paved track and mostly uphill. The track is suitable for prams and wheelchairs.

A word of caution:

Conditions at Josephine Falls can be dangerous, particularly due to sudden flash floods at any time of year, slippery rocks, and submerged objects in the creek. For visitor safety, access to the top section of the falls is prohibited, as serious injuries and fatalities have occurred there. You must observe the signposted restricted access area.

At Josephine Falls, our Cairns Adventure Group tour guide provided a safety briefing before directing our access to the natural rock slide at the middle-tier waterfall.

Babinda Boulders – Sacred waters among giant granite boulders

A waterhole surrounded by rainforest.

A safe swimming spot at Babinda Boulders.

 

Babinda Boulders is a place of both natural beauty and deep cultural significance for the local Aboriginal people. Here, a clear mountain creek winds its way around massive granite boulders, forming natural swimming holes where you can swim in the shadow of rainforest-clad mountains.

The main swimming area is calm and safe, with sandy banks and shady picnic spots – perfect for a relaxed, refreshing dip. But beyond the designated swimming zones, the water flows through narrow chutes and powerful currents, especially around Devil’s Pool, making those areas off-limits.

Local signs and stories tell the Dreamtime legend of the site, reminding visitors of its spiritual significance to the Yidinjy people. Babinda Boulders is a popular swimming hole with a strong sense of place – a reminder to respect the landscape as much as we enjoy it.

A word of caution:

For the second time on this day trip, the Cairns Adventure Group tour guide gave a safety briefing, as Babinda Boulders is more dangerous than Josephine Falls. While it is generally safe to swim at the designated swimming holes, it is essential to be safety-conscious and avoid taking unnecessary risks. Twenty-nine people have died at Babinda Boulders after ignoring warning signs to stay clear of the fast-flowing water and slippery boulders at Devil’s Pool.

Mossman Gorge – A refreshing dip in the heart of the Daintree

People gather on the sandbank along a river, while others swim in the river, which is lined with green trees.

A sandy beach on the Mossman River – a pretty swimming spot in Mossman Gorge.

 

Mossman Gorge offers a rare chance to swim in clear waters, surrounded by the lush greenery of the World Heritage-listed Daintree Rainforest. This ancient rainforest, known for its incredible biodiversity and being one of the oldest ecosystems on Earth, provides a truly unforgettable spot for a refreshing dip. Just outside Port Douglas, this part of the Mossman River is renowned for its cool, clear waters flowing over smooth granite boulders beneath a lush green canopy.

Designated swimming spots along the river let you wade in safely and cool off while surrounded by the sounds of the rainforest. The water here is fresh and invigorating – a welcome relief on a hot, humid day.

Beyond swimming, Mossman Gorge holds deep cultural significance for the Kuku Yalanji people. Visitors arrive through Mossman Gorge Centre, where they can learn about Indigenous traditions or join a guided Dreamtime Walk. It’s a place where a simple swim connects you not only to nature but also to thousands of years of living culture.

Access to the gorge is via a shuttle bus from the Mossman Gorge Centre, with services departing every 15 minutes between 8.00 am and 4.45 pm. Tickets can be bought at the centre or online in advance. This shuttle system helps to protect the natural environment and manage visitor numbers, ensuring a safe and sustainable experience for all.

Practical Information – Planning Your Rainforest Swim

Before you dive into Tropical North Queensland’s rainforest swimming holes, a little planning will make your trip smoother and more enjoyable.

How to get there

You can visit all these swimming holes on day tours from Cairns, which is a convenient option if you prefer not to self-drive. Tours typically combine multiple experiences into a single itinerary, often including transportation, a guide, and sometimes lunch. If you like flexibility, self-driving gives you the freedom to spend as long as you like at each spot.

Distances from Cairns:

  • Lake Eacham = 67 kilometres
  • Millaa Millaa Falls = 101 kilometres
  • Josephine Falls car park = 75 kilometres
  • Babinda Boulders = 65 kilometres
  • Mossman Gorge Centre = 78 kilometres

Best time to go

The dry season (May to October) is the most comfortable time to visit, with warm days, lower humidity, and clear conditions for swimming. The wet season (November to April) brings heavy rain and stronger currents, which can make some spots unsafe, though the waterfalls are at their most dramatic.

Always check local conditions before swimming.

Essentials to bring

  • Swimmers and a towel
  • Hat
  • Sunscreen
  • Sturdy, reliable footwear
  • Drinking water
  • Insect repellent
  • Camera and waterproof phone case

Tour versus independent travel

Day tours are stress-free and great if you’re short on time, as everything is organised for you. Sadly, day tours can often feel rushed. However, with the two tours I took – “Waterfall Wanderers Tour” with Cairns Adventure Group and “Mossman Gorge, Daintree and Wildlife” with Tropic Wings Cairns Tour – the pace was relaxed and unhurried. Self-driving provides more freedom, but it requires careful planning and navigation. Either way, always respect signage, stay in designated swimming spots, and leave no trace behind.

 

Swimming in Tropical North Queensland’s rainforest isn’t just about cooling off – it’s about connecting with an ancient landscape that feels powerful and alive. Each swimming hole I visited had its own character: the calm serenity of Lake Eacham, the picture-perfect plunge at Millaa Millaa Falls, the playful rock slide at Josephine Falls, the sacred beauty of Babinda Boulders, and the crisp mountain waters of Mossman Gorge. 

If I had to choose a favourite, Josephine Falls captured my sense of adventure, while Mossman Gorge connected me with the world’s oldest rainforest. Whichever you visit, you’ll leave with memories of swims unlike anywhere else in the world. 

So pack your swimmers, respect the land and its cultural significance, and get ready to dive into the cool, clear waters of Tropical North Queensland’s rainforest – it’s an experience you won’t forget.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025.

 

If you could add one more Queensland rainforest swimming hole to this list, where would it be?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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An image with two photos: one of a woman cautiously walking across a waterfall's boulder and the other of people swimming in a river in the rainforest.

 

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A small, open boat cruises through a gorge with aqua water and towering cliffs.COBBOLD GORGE ADVENTURE: My Honest Review of the Official Guided Tour. Discover the beauty of Cobbold Gorge, a stunning natural wonder, in the heart of outback Queensland, Australia. I share my experience of the Cobbold Gorge tour and what made it special.

 

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COBBOLD GORGE ADVENTURE: My Honest Review of the Official Guided Tour

Is This Queensland’s Best Kept Secret? Discover the Beauty of Cobbold Gorge: a Hidden Gem on the Savannah Way.   Nestled in the heart of outback Queensland, Cobbold Gorge is…

Is This Queensland’s Best Kept Secret? Discover the Beauty of Cobbold Gorge: a Hidden Gem on the Savannah Way.

 

Nestled in the heart of outback Queensland, Cobbold Gorge is a stunning natural wonder that provides an immersive adventure into Australia’s rugged beauty. This ancient hidden gem in the heart of the Gulf Savannah region is one of the country’s youngest gorges. It features breathtaking sandstone formations, a tranquil waterway, and an unforgettable tour experience.

During my visit to Cobbold Gorge, I joined the three-hour official guided tour, including a scenic circular escarpment walk, an exhilarating glass bridge suspended over the gorge, and a peaceful cruise through the gorge’s serene waters on an electric boat. This unique experience provided a perfect blend of adventure and tranquillity, allowing me to appreciate the gorge from above and below, with each perspective unveiling something new and awe-inspiring.

In this post, I’ll share my experience of the Cobbold Gorge tour, my thoughts on what made it special, and essential practical tips to help you plan your own visit to this spectacular hidden gem in the Australian outback.

 

About Cobbold Gorge

Cobbold Gorge is located on a working cattle station, Robin Hood Station, 461 kilometres (about six hours) west of Cairns in Queensland’s remote Gulf Savannah region. The closest town is the historic gold mining town of Forsayth, about 45 kilometres away.

The gorge is part of a geologically ancient landscape slowly carved over millions of years by water erosion. Although this natural wonder is 135 million years old, Cobbold Gorge is Queensland’s youngest and narrowest gorge. Its narrow sandstone walls, some as close as two metres apart, make it one of the most unique gorges in Australia. Unlike larger, more open gorges, Cobbold Gorge offers an intimate, almost otherworldly experience, especially when seen from the water.

The area is culturally significant to the Ewamian people, the traditional owners of the land, who have inhabited this region for thousands of years.

The 3-Hour Cobbold Gorge Tour

The official guided tour is the only way to access Cobbold Gorge, as it is a protected nature refuge. This arrangement protects its fragile ecosystem while enabling visitors to fully appreciate its stunning beauty.

The well-organised three-hour guided tour, which included travel to and from the gorge, was split into two parts: an escarpment walk with the glass bridge crossing and a silent boat cruise through the gorge.

Escarpment walk to the top of the gorge

A creek flows through the Australian bush.

Cobbold Creek is the starting point for the guided walk up to the escarpment and over the gorge.

 

The adventure began with a 4WD bus ride from Cobbold Gorge Village to the gorge’s Interpretive Centre (bus shelter). From the Interpretive Centre, the dirt track to the top of the escarpment overlooking the gorge winds through weathered sandstone outcrops, rugged bushland, and panoramic viewpoints. We were told to look for wildlife, such as wallabies and goannas, but I didn’t see any.

While we walked, the guide shared intriguing insights about how the gorge was formed, how water sculpted the landscape, and pointed out fossils embedded in the rocks.

One of the tour’s highlights was the walk across Australia’s first entirely glass bridge at the highest point of the escarpment. The glass bridge spans the 11-metre gap between the gorge’s cliffs. It is made of 41-millimetre-thick glass, which I was assured was thick enough to prevent me from falling 17 metres into the water below. We had to wear blue booties over our shoes to prevent the glass from getting scratched.

View through the glass bridge to the water 17 metres below.

 

This transparent bridge, constructed in 2019, closed an inaccessible gap and provided extra viewing opportunities along the length of the gorge.

A glass bridge spans a gap between cliffs in a gorge.

Looking back at the glass bridge as we continued our walk over the gorge and down again.

 

I don’t fear heights, but I must admit that walking across the glass bridge sent adrenaline pumping through my body. I could hear my heart beating in my head!

The walking component of the tour was approximately 1.5 kilometres and took just over an hour to complete. While it was described as an easy to moderate walk, I wouldn’t recommend it for anyone who isn’t sure on their feet. The trail included narrow sections, loose shale, rocks, and ledges to navigate. To the guides’ credit, we were informed about the trail conditions before starting the walk, as it’s not possible to turn back once you commence. We had two people opt out of the walk, choosing to wait by the boats for the cruise component of the tour.

While we were assured the glass bridge is engineered to the highest standards and is perfectly safe, if having just a sheet of glass separating you from the gorge floor below is too much to handle, you might opt for the cruise only.

After soaking in the breathtaking views from the rocky escarpment, the tour descended the gorge through the bush for a completely different perspective – on the water itself.

Boat cruise through the gorge

Thanks to the electric-powered boats, the one-hour journey along Cobbold Gorge’s narrow waterway was peaceful, interrupted only by occasional birdsong, the splash of a fish, and the guide’s quiet storytelling.

Some sections of Cobbold Gorge were so narrow that, at times, I felt enclosed by the towering walls that almost blocked out the sky.

As the electric boat moved soundlessly, the tranquil atmosphere descended upon my mind, leaving me with an experience that would stay long after I left.

As we drifted through the cool, shaded passageways, the water reflected the sandstone walls, creating a mesmerising mirror effect that made me feel like I was floating through an enchanted gap in the earth.

The towering walls of Cobbold Gorge are reflected in the water as an electric boat vanishes into the narrowing passage.

 

Final Thoughts

Cobbold Gorge is one of those rare places that feels truly untouched. Whether standing high above the gorge, walking across a glass bridge, or floating silently through its waters, this tour offers a perfect blend of adventure, tranquillity, and two unique perspectives.

I only regret missing out on the scenic helicopter flight over the gorge for that third perspective. As a solo traveller, I could have been paired with other travellers. However, flights have a maximum of three passengers and are subject to strict weight limits per flight. As much as the Cobbold Gorge staff tried, the passenger-to-weight ratio didn’t work in my favour during my short stay. Bookings are essential!

Cobbold Gorge is a must-visit if you love off-the-beaten-path destinations, stunning landscapes, and unique experiences. It may be remote, but the reward is a hidden paradise that will be etched in your memory forever.

What You Need to Know

  • Cobbold Gorge is only open from 1 April to 31 October during the dry season.
  • You can only visit Cobbold Gorge on an official guided tour; bookings are essential. You will need comfortable, covered walking shoes, a hat, sunscreen, water, and a camera.
  • The most common way to reach Cobbold Gorge is by self-driving, a six-hour drive from Cairns. If you are comfortable driving on dirt roads, you should not be limited by the vehicle you drive or tow. However, if you hire a car to drive to Cobbold Gorge, you must check their policy regarding driving on dirt roads.
  • I arrived in Cobbold Gorge on APT’s 12-day Savannah Explorer tour from Darwin to Cairns. Some tour companies offer multi-day trips from Cairns, including a stay at Cobbold Gorge and the official guided tour.
  • Accommodation is available at Cobbold Gorge Village, which offers ensuite cabins, motel-style rooms, and camping and caravaning sites (powered and unpowered). The village has a licensed bar, bistro, and store to purchase souvenirs, gifts, and basic grocery items. Our tour group stayed two nights in the “Rouseabout” rooms. My room was comfortable with everything I needed for my stay, including air conditioning, a TV, a bar fridge, and tea and coffee-making facilities. I enjoyed sitting on the balcony of an evening watching the sun slide behind the Australian bush. My only criticism was the tiny ensuite bathroom, so small I had to dry myself in the room’s foyer.

 

When I left Cobbold Gorge, I felt a deep sense of awe and a renewed appreciation for the raw beauty of the Australian outback. The guided tour was a comprehensive and memorable experience, allowing me to fully appreciate this hidden gem’s unique features. Cobbold Gorge is a must-visit destination for an adventure combining stunning landscapes with insightful commentary. I hope my experience encourages you to discover this remarkable natural wonder for yourself.

Be sure to put Cobbold Gorge on your itinerary; you won’t be disappointed!

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025.

 

If travelling through Queensland, would you include Cobbold Gorge on your travel itinerary, or would its remoteness deter you?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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An image with two photos, one of a water-filled narrow gorge, and the other of a creek flowing through the Australian bush.

An image with two photos, on e of a section of a glass bridge and looking down to the water below and the other being on the water in the gorge and looking up at the glass bridge.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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CAPE REINGA, 90 MILE BEACH, AND MORE – An Exciting Fly/Drive Tour

From Bay to Cape: Salt Air’s Scenic Fly/Drive Tour to Cape Reinga Offers a Unique Opportunity to Soar Over Northland’s Coastline and Explore the Iconic Cape.   If you’re seeking…

From Bay to Cape: Salt Air’s Scenic Fly/Drive Tour to Cape Reinga Offers a Unique Opportunity to Soar Over Northland’s Coastline and Explore the Iconic Cape.

 

If you’re seeking a one-of-a-kind way to explore the stunning landscapes of New Zealand’s Northland, Salt Air’s Cape Reinga fly/drive tour presents an unforgettable adventure. This tour merges the thrill of a scenic flight with the close-up experience of a guided drive, highlighting the region’s best from above and below. From the sweeping vistas of Ninety Mile Beach to the spiritual significance of Cape Reinga, this journey guarantees a rich mix of natural beauty and cultural heritage. Along the way, you’ll take a refreshing break at Tapotupotu Bay, one of Northland’s pristine beaches, and experience the exhilarating thrill of sandboarding down the towering dunes at Te Paki. Join me as I guide you through the highlights of this excellent tour, offering insights and tips to ensure you get the most out of your visit to New Zealand’s northernmost point.

 

About Salt Air

Salt Air is a family business that has been operating since December 1992. Its office is in the picturesque town of Paihia, in New Zealand’s Bay of Islands. Salt Air offers fixed-wing plane and helicopter tours around Northland (the tip of New Zealand’s North Island).

I booked my tour with Salt Air through Grand Pacific Tours, the company I travelled with through New Zealand’s North and South Islands. Grand Pacific Tours recommended a tour with Salt Air as an optional activity in Paihia for those who wanted a unique view of Northland and the Bay of Islands. That was me!

I chose Salt Air’s Cape Reinga Half Day Tour by Aeroplane, which offered scenic views of Northland’s interior, coast, and islands and an immersive experience at Cape Reinga.

Cape Reinga Half Day Tour by Aeroplane with Salt Air

Cape Reinga Half Day Tour fly/drive tour route (Salt Air brochure 2022-2023)

 

Salt Air picked me up from Paihia Wharf with six other passengers at 12.30 pm. We then drove 20 minutes to Kerikeri Airport to begin our fly/drive tour in a seven-seater (plus pilot) fixed-wing plane.

Leaving Paihia on the 45-minute flight to Cape Reinga, Northland’s lush green hills gave way to the west coast’s famous Ninety Mile Beach, a natural wonder showcasing Northland’s rugged beauty. Despite its name, Ninety Mile Beach is only 55 miles (88 kilometres) long. The beach is an official highway best suited for 4WD vehicles driving on the hard-packed sand. However, on the afternoon of my scenic flight, the beach was deserted of cars and tourist buses.

A view of sea, sand, and scrubland taken from the air.

Aerial view of Ninety Mile Beach on Northland’s west coast.

 

Landing on a grass runway on a hill, we swapped the plane for a minivan, where our pilot became our driver and tour guide. Now, we began our guided vehicle tour, discovering the best the tip of New Zealand’s North Island had to offer.

Our first stop was at Cape Reinga and the iconic Cape Reinga Lighthouse.

Cape Reinga Te Rerenga Wairua is New Zealand’s northernmost accessible point and a place where Māori believe the spirits of the dead depart for their ancestral homeland. This dramatic headland, surrounded by wild coastal landscapes, is where the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean currents collide.

Perched at the tip of Cape Reinga, the iconic white lighthouse has been guiding ships through these waters since 1941. Its beacon is visible 35 kilometres out to sea. At 165 metres above sea level, the Cape Reinga Lighthouse provides stunning panoramic views of the vast ocean ahead and the rugged coastline. It is one of New Zealand’s most photographed landmarks.

The walk from the Cape Reinga car park to the lighthouse is 800 metres one way along a wide sealed path. Although it’s described as an easy walk, you should know there are some quite steep sections. Along the way, the walk offers magnificent views of the surrounding ocean and landscape as the lighthouse gradually reveals itself.

Te Werahi Beach, Cape Maria Van Diemen, with Motuopoa Island on the right – view on the walk to Cape Reinga Lighthouse.

 

A lighthouse on a hill covered with shrubs, blue oceans, and cloudy sky.

Cape Reinga Lighthouse, with 360-degree views, appears on the headland.

 

Cape Reinga Lighthouse with the yellow signpost showing distances to the South Pole, the Equator, Vancouver, Los Angeles, and more.

 

The lighthouse itself is not open to the public, but a visit to the site is a must-do.

A ten-minute drive from Cape Reinga brought us to picturesque Tapotupotu Bay, where we stopped for tea, coffee, and muffins under the shade of native trees. Tapotupotu Bay provided a tranquil contrast to the dramatic landscapes of the cape. Before heading to our next stop, I took a leisurely stroll along the golden sands of Tapotupotu Beach and cooled my feet in the calm waters.

Tapotupotu Bay for afternoon tea and a walk along the picturesque beach.

 

The final stop before our flight back to Paihia was the Te Paki Sand Dunes, also known as the Giant Sand Dunes. These massive dunes, some towering up to 150 metres, presented an impressive and unexpected contrast to our earlier experiences on this tour. One of the highlights was the opportunity to go sandboarding down the steep slopes of the dunes. Salt Air provides sandboards for its guests.

Sandboarding down the massive Te Paki Sand Dunes.

 

The one-hour flight back to Paihia took us down Northland’s spectacular east coast, soaring over several beautiful bays, harbours, and stretches of white silica sand against a turquoise sea.

The vast expanses of brilliant white silica sand on Parengarenga Harbour’s shores are among the world’s purest and were once mined for glassmaking. Flying over Parengarenga Harbour was an absolute joy, as it is remote and can only be seen from the air or sea.

Aerial view of the white silica sands of Parengarenga Harbour.

 

Before turning inland for Kerikeri Airport, we flew over the breathtaking Bay of Islands.

The Bay of Islands is a stunning coastal paradise. It is home to an impressive archipelago of 144 islands scattered across crystal-clear waters, ranging from small rocky outcrops to larger, verdant landscapes. Renowned for its turquoise waters, golden beaches, and lush greenery, the Bay of Islands is a haven for nature lovers, history buffs, and adventure seekers. Read my blog post for a detailed review of my sky and sea exploration of the Bay of Islands.

An aerial view of several islands in a blue sea.

Flying over Northland’s stunning Bay of Islands.

 

Salt Air’s Cape Reinga Tour by Aeroplane was an unforgettable adventure, and I highly recommend it. In just 4.5 hours, I experienced an incredible mix of iconic landmarks, rugged coastlines, tranquil bays, and towering sand dunes – all without feeling rushed.

The scenic flights were just as breathtaking as the ground experiences. From soaring over lush mountain ranges to navigating the length of Ninety Mile Beach and following the spectacular east coast, the ever-changing scenery was mesmerising.

I thank Sam, our pilot, driver, and tour guide, for his outstanding job throughout the afternoon. He multitasked with ease, his knowledge of the area was excellent, and his patience with a diverse group of people was commendable. Well done, Sam!

This tour was the perfect way to discover New Zealand’s Northland, combining exhilarating aerial views with immersive on-the-ground experiences. If you’re looking for a unique, action-packed journey, this is the one you can’t miss!

A Unique Perspective

Aerial view of Northland’s mountainous east coast.

 

Practical Information

Northland, situated at the northern tip of New Zealand’s North Island, features low elevation and close proximity to the sea, resulting in a mild, humid, and quite windy climate. Summers are warm and tend to be humid, while winters remain mild. Rainfall is generally abundant throughout the year, with sporadic heavy downpours. Nevertheless, dry spells can occur, particularly during summer and autumn. Most parts of Northland receive around 2,000 hours of sunshine annually.

While in Paihia, I stayed at the Scenic Hotel Bay of Islands, a comfortable, 4-star resort-style hotel just 0.9 kilometres from Paihia Wharf and the heart of the town. The hotel comprises groups of two-story villas with several rooms on each villa’s two levels. There are no lifts to the second floor. So, if you don’t want to carry a bag up a flight of stairs, ask for a ground-floor room.

 

Salt Air’s Cape Reinga fly/drive tour is more than just a journey; it’s an immersive experience that captures the essence of New Zealand’s stunning Northland region. Every moment is filled with discovery, from the awe-inspiring aerial views during the scenic flight to the cultural and natural wonders explored on land. The refreshing stop at Tapotupotu Bay offers a serene break amidst the adventure, while the thrill of sandboarding down the Te Paki dunes adds a dash of excitement to the day. This tour seamlessly blends the beauty, history, and adventure of the North, leaving you with memories that will last a lifetime. If you’re seeking a unique and enriching way to explore Cape Reinga, Salt Air’s fly/drive tour is absolutely worth taking.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. Unless otherwise stated, all photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025.

 

Which part of this tour sounds most exciting to you – the scenic flight, Cape Reinga Lighthouse, relaxing at Tapotupotu Bay, or sandboarding at Te Paki?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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An image with two photos - one of a lighthouse and the other of a green mountainous coastal landscape.

An image with two photos - one of a pilot's view of islands below and the other of people sandboarding down a giant sand dune.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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BAY OF ISLANDS, NEW ZEALAND: How to Explore its Natural Beauty

From Sky to Sea: 15 Photos to Inspire You to See Northland’s East Coast.   Nestled on the northeastern coast of New Zealand’s North Island, the Bay of Islands is…

From Sky to Sea: 15 Photos to Inspire You to See Northland’s East Coast.

 

Nestled on the northeastern coast of New Zealand’s North Island, the Bay of Islands is a breathtaking destination that captivates visitors with its stunning natural beauty and serene charm. With 144 islands scattered across turquoise waters, this coastal paradise offers endless opportunities for exploration and relaxation.

On my trip to New Zealand with Grand Pacific Tours, I had the unforgettable experience of seeing the Bay of Islands from two unique perspectives: soaring above it on a scenic flight and cruising its crystal-clear waters by boat. From spotting the archipelago’s lush islands from the sky to passing through the iconic Hole in the Rock on a boat and stepping onto the golden shores of Urupukapuka Island for a tranquil lunch, every moment was a postcard-perfect memory.

In this blog post, I’ll share my journey through 15 stunning photos that capture the essence of the Bay of Islands. Whether you’re planning your own adventure or simply dreaming of a visit, these images will inspire you to explore one of New Zealand’s most beautiful coastal regions.

 

About the Bay of Islands

The Bay of Islands is a stunning coastal paradise on the northeastern tip of New Zealand’s North Island. Renowned for its turquoise waters, golden beaches, and lush greenery, it’s a haven for nature lovers, history buffs, and adventure seekers alike.

The picturesque bay is home to an impressive archipelago of 144 islands scattered across crystal-clear waters. These islands range from small rocky outcrops to larger, verdant landscapes like Urupukapuka Island, which offer swimming, hiking, kayaking, and snorkelling opportunities. The waters are teeming with marine life, making the Bay of Islands a prime spot for dolphin and whale watching.

The Bay of Island’s crowning geological feature is the Hole in the Rock, a dramatic sea cave on Motukokako Island. Centuries of wind and water erosion carved this natural wonder, creating a dramatic passage that boats can navigate during calm seas. Passing through the Hole in the Rock is a must-do Bay of Islands experience and offers a sense of awe at nature’s power.

View of the Hole in the Rock, Motukokako Island, from outside the bay after travelling through it on Fullers Bay of Islands’ “Hole in the Rock Dolphin Cruise”.

 

Rich in history, the Bay of Islands is also the cradle of Māori culture and European settlement in New Zealand. In 1840, the Treaty of Waitangi, New Zealand’s founding document, was signed here. Visitors can explore the nearby Waitangi Treaty Grounds to gain insight into the region’s cultural and historical significance.

A flag pole dominates a large expanse of green lawn with islands in a bay in the background.

A view of the Bay of Islands from Waitangi Treaty Grounds. I visited Waitangi Treaty Grounds with Grand Pacific Tours. The visit included a guided tour and time to explore on my own.

 

Located approximately three hours north of Auckland by car, the Bay of Islands is easily accessible and a gateway to some of the North Island’s most captivating adventures. Whether soaring above its glittering waters on a scenic flight or cruising between its islands by boat, the Bay of Islands promises a journey into the heart of New Zealand’s natural beauty, creating memories to last a lifetime.

Soaring Above Paradise: A Scenic Flight Over the Bay of Islands

Aerial view of islands of various sizes in a bay.

New Zealand’s Bay of Islands – a breathtaking aerial panorama!

 

The scenic flight over New Zealand’s Bay of Islands with Salt Air was an unforgettable experience, offering an unparalleled perspective of this spectacular coastal paradise.

Taking off from Paihia, the heart of the bay, the bay’s dramatic coastline opened up below, with rugged cliffs plunging into the sea and secluded beaches gleaming in the sun. Flying higher, a breathtaking panorama of 144 emerald islands scattered across sparkling turquoise waters unfolded in a mesmerising patchwork of colour.

The flight offered a fabulous perspective of the bay’s vast expanse, where the intricate patterns of the islands, each different from the other, were laid before me. From this vantage point, I could appreciate how the Bay of Islands has captured the hearts of so many visitors. The aerial journey offered a sense of awe and wonder, making it a truly unique way to experience the beauty and grandeur of this remarkable part of New Zealand.

Aerial view of a lush coastal area.

The Bay of Islands’ dramatic coastal landscape is best viewed from the sky.

 

An image showing green coastal hills with a beach cove.

The Bay of Islands has a subtropical climate. It is dotted with secluded bays and perfect beaches.

 

Islands in the Bay – a patchwork of colours.

 

The Bay of Islands' rugged coastline and islands scattered in the bay.

A scenic flight over the Bay of Islands – a genuinely unique experience.

 

A Scenic Voyage: Cruise Around the Bay of Islands

Islands of various sizes encircle a large body of water.

On a scenic cruise, the stunning landscape of the Bay of Islands unfolds before you.

 

A scenic cruise on a purpose-built catamaran through New Zealand’s Bay of Islands with Fullers Bay of Islands’ “Hole in the Rock Dolphin Cruise” was a captivating journey through one of the country’s most picturesque coastal regions. Departing the delightful town of Paihia, the boat sailed across the calm, turquoise waters past the lush green islands that dot the bay, each with its own unique charm and character.

The cruise sailed past pristine beaches and secluded coves, offering stunning views of the diverse landscapes that make up this natural wonder. Along the way, dolphins played in the boat’s wake and swam beside it.

One of the highlights of the cruise was navigating through the iconic Hole in the Rock, a dramatic sea cave on Motukokato Island. As we passed through this natural formation with its sheer cliffs, the thrill of this close encounter with nature was unforgettable.

Stopping at Otehei Bay on Uruprkapuka Island, the Bay of Islands’ largest island, there was time to relax, walk along the unspoiled beach, and have a delicious lunch at the fully licenced Otehei Bay Café before continuing the scenic cruise.

Throughout the journey, the serene beauty of the Bay of Islands unfolded, creating a peaceful and immersive experience. The cruise offered new sights and perspectives at every turn, making it a perfect way to explore this must-experience destination’s stunning landscapes and marine life.

The Bay of Islands’ 144 islands are dotted across sparkling turquoise waters, each with its unique shape and charm.

 

A sail boat is moored at a beach surrounded by forest.

The Bay of Islands is a paradise for boating, sailing, fishing, swimming, and exploring, with a secluded cove around every corner.

 

People swimming and sailing at a beach surrounded by several islands.

At Otehei Bay on Urupukapuka Island, we left the cruise for a couple of hours for lunch at Otekei Bay Cafe and to explore the island.

 

Practical Information

The Bay of Islands has a subtropical climate with generally favourable weather year-round. Summer temperatures average 24°C, while winter temperatures average 16°C. Rain can be severe in the winter months of June, July, and August, with an average of 16 days of rain followed by 11 days of rain in Spring (September, October, and November).

While in Paihia, I stayed at the Scenic Hotel Bay of Islands, a comfortable, 4-star resort-style hotel just 0.9 kilometres from Paihia Wharf and the heart of the town. The hotel comprises groups of two-story villas with several rooms on each villa’s two levels. There are no lifts to the second floor. So, if you don’t want to carry a bag up a flight of stairs, ask for a ground-floor room.

My scenic flight over the Bay of Islands with Salt Air was just a small portion of a half-day scenic tour that also included flying over Ninety Mile Beach on Northland’s west coast, walking to Cape Reinga Lighthouse, where the Tasman Sea and Indian Ocean meet, afternoon tea at Tapotupotu Bay, and sandboarding down the Te Paki Sand Dunes.

This post has focused on the spectacular Bay of Islands – experiencing it by air and sea. In February 2025, I am covering the rest of the Salt Air tour I took, publishing a post that takes you over Ninety Mile Beach, up to the tip of New Zealand, and more. Stay tuned!

 

Exploring New Zealand’s Bay of Islands from both the sky and the sea was an unforgettable journey showcasing the region’s unique beauty. Every moment celebrated nature’s miracle, from the awe-inspiring aerial views to the up-close encounters with its iconic islands.

The Bay of Islands offers a fabulous adventure if you want to immerse yourself in New Zealand’s coastal splendour. Whether you take to the skies, cruise through its waters, or simply relax on its golden shores, this destination promises memories that will last a lifetime. 

Ready to plan your next trip? Please share your favourite way to explore coastal destinations in the comments below, and let’s inspire each other to embark on our next adventure!

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. Unless otherwise stated, all photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025.

 

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An image with two photos: and aerial view of a green hilly coastline and a view of a beach surrounded by islands.

An image with two photos: one of a pilot's aerial view of islands in a bay and the other from inside of a cave in a cliff.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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HOW TO LAND ON A GLACIER IN NEW ZEALAND’S STUNNING SOUTHERN ALPS

Experience Fox Glacier and Franz Josef Glacier on a Helicopter Flight – The Most Accessible Rivers of Ice in the World.   New Zealand’s Southern Alps are breathtaking and home…

Experience Fox Glacier and Franz Josef Glacier on a Helicopter Flight – The Most Accessible Rivers of Ice in the World.

 

New Zealand’s Southern Alps are breathtaking and home to several glaciers. Fox Glacier and Franz Josef Glacier are the most accessible. And what better way to experience their natural beauty than with a helicopter flight over the glaciers and landing on the top of one for a walk around? 

When touring New Zealand’s South Island, I climbed aboard a helicopter for a scenic flight and snow landing. I have mixed feelings about this flight, which become evident in my review below.

 

I was so excited about taking a helicopter flight with Glacier Helicopters over New Zealand’s Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers – an optional extra with Grand Pacific Tours and my New Year present to myself. I will always jump at the option of a helicopter or small plane scenic flight and have taken several now around the world. They provide a unique perspective of an area or site you visit, and I feel a sense of adventure with helicopter flights.

Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers are in New Zealand’s Southern Alps on the South Island’s west coast, in Glacier Country. They are temperate maritime glaciers that extend well below the snow line. Franz Josef Glacier’s terminal face is 500 metres above sea level, while Fox Glacier terminates at 250 metres above sea level. Though still flowing, both glaciers, unfortunately, are retreating, with Franz Josef vanishing at a phenomenal rate.

Franz Josef Glacier is 12 kilometres long and lies 20 kilometres south of Fox Glacier. Franz Josef Glacier was named after the Austrian emperor but is better known by its Māori name, Kā Roimata o Hine Hukatere. The glacier is five kilometres from the town of the same name.

At 13 kilometres long, Fox Glacier (Te Moeka o Tuawe) is longer and faster moving than Franz Josef Glacier and is New Zealand’s longest glacier. Fox Glacier is just five kilometres from the village of the same name. I stayed in Fox Glacier village.

View of a glacier wedged between two mountains. An open plain with several trees is in the foreground of the photo.

View of Fox Glacier taken from State Highway 6 near Fox Glacier village.

 

Grand Pacific Tours had organised the 40-minute ‘Mountain Scenic Spectacular’ helicopter flight with Helicopter Line in Franz Josef village. However, when we arrived, Helicopter Line advised us to fly the next morning because of the current poor visibility. For some reason I never understood, we booked in the following day with Glacier Helicopters for our scenic flight over Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers, with a snow landing on Franz Josef Glacier and departing from Fox Glacier village. Unfortunately, because of a strong wind, we couldn’t fly around Mount Cook (Aoraki), New Zealand’s highest mountain (3,724 metres), as per the scheduled flight path. Consequently, Glacier Helicopters reduced our helicopter flight plus snow landing to 30 minutes, and we did receive a small discount.

A snow capped mountain rises above a mountain range devoid of snow.

Mount Cook dominates New Zealand’s Southern Alps.

 

I was disappointed with Glacier Helicopter’s scenic flight. The cabin was cramped inside, and the other passengers obstructed my view. There were three of us in the back, two in the front, and the pilot. Sitting in the middle of the back seat, I found the cramped conditions restricted my arm movements, making taking photos while flying difficult.

I could tolerate being sandwiched between two passengers, but having my views of the landscape we were passing over severely obstructed was upsetting. While flying, the passengers on either side of me continually blocked my sight as they leaned into their respective windows to see the landscape below and take photos. Looking out the front of the helicopter was no better as the heads of the two front passengers were prominent in many of my photos.

These circumstances negatively impacted my overall experience. As a travel blogger and photographer (I rarely disclose my tradecraft), getting good photographs is crucial for my posts. I understand weight distribution is imperative for helicopter flights, but is there no way to guarantee a window seat?

Had I not been seated in the back row’s middle seat, I believe my helicopter flight experience would have been very different – far more positive.

After flying up the ice river that is Franz Josef Glacier, we landed on the top of the glacier to spend 15 wondrous minutes walking on the snow and ice, examining the ice architecture, enjoying the views, and taking photos. The adventure of a lifetime! The landing on Franz Josef Glacier was magical. Who needs a flight around a snow-capped mountain when you can walk on a glacier?

The ice river of the Franz Josef Glacier is view from a helicopter.

Franz Josef Glacier – climbing the ice river

 

New Zealand's Southern Alps at the top of Franz Josef Glacier, viewed from inside a helicopter.

Landing on Franz Josef Glacier.

 

While on Franz Josef Glacier, the pilot took photos of the passengers. He had a printer in the helicopter’s tail, and we could purchase a photograph after landing back at Fox Glacier Heliport.

A red and white helicopter sits on the snow with mountains behind it. The name, Glacier Helicopters is printer on the helicopter's tail. The pilot is looking into the helicopter through an open door in the tail section.

There’s a printer in the helicopter’s tail!

 

I would have loved more time on Franz Josef Glacier to walk further afield than just the top of the glacier, exploring its features in detail. But that’s what the Heli Hikes entail. Next time!

Being in the middle seat behind the pilot and two other passengers on Glacier Helicopter’s small, five-passenger helicopter was not value for money. I had no choice as to which company I took the helicopter flight with, as Grand Pacific Tours organised it. I recommend exploring other glacier helicopter flight companies to avoid disappointment.

 

My helicopter flight over New Zealand’s Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers was a mixed experience. The obstruction of my views during the flight by other passengers was undeniably disappointing. However, the magic truly began when we landed on Franz Josef Glacier. The opportunity to step out on this pristine glacier and explore its breathtaking beauty up close gave me a real sense of adventure. While the flight had drawbacks, the glacier landing left an indelible mark on my memory.

 

Snow covered mountains are viewed from inside a helicopter.

Fox Glacier – on top of the mountains.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2023.

 

My favourite helicopter flights are in small three-passenger helicopters with removed doors. I experienced three such helicopter flights when in The Kimberley, Western Australia. What has been your experience of scenic helicopter flights? I love hearing from you. Please leave a comment below.

 

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The image features two photos. One shows a red and white helicopter sitting on snow with mountains behind it. The other photo is a section of a snow covered mountain range.

 

The image features two photos: a glacier wedged between two mountains with a grass plain in the foreground, and a view of an ice river (glacier) running down a mountain crevice.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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