A River Cruiser’s Guide: The Best of Rothenburg in a Few Hours. Rothenburg ob der Tauber is the kind of place that feels like stepping into a medieval fairy…
A River Cruiser’s Guide: The Best of Rothenburg in a Few Hours.
Rothenburg ob der Tauber is the kind of place that feels like stepping into a medieval fairy tale. With its half-timbered houses, cobblestone streets, and well-preserved city walls, this charming Bavarian town is a highlight for travellers exploring Germany. I visited Rothenburg on a shore excursion during a river cruise, which included an orientation walking tour before we were free to wander at our own pace. With just a couple of hours to explore, I set off on my own to soak up the town’s enchanting atmosphere, admire its stunning medieval architecture, and walk along the historic city walls. Here’s how I spent my free time in this picture-perfect destination.
About Rothenburg
Rothenburg is the common name for this German town, officially known as Rothenburg ob der Tauber. The translation of Rothenburg ob der Tauber is “Red Fortress above the Tauber.” This name is fitting, as the town sits on a plateau above the Tauber River. “Red Fortress” comes from “rot” (red) and “burg” (burgh, fortified settlement) and is attributed by some to the red roofs of Rothenburg’s houses within the fortifications.
‘Red Fortress’ – the red roofs of Rothenburg’s houses within its fortifications.
Rothenburg represents 1,000 years of history in the making. Once one of the largest cities in the Holy Roman Empire, it survived a siege in 1631 during the Thirty Years’ War between Protestant and Catholic states (1618-1648) and faced stagnation in 1634 due to poverty and plague. This latter factor preserved Rothenburg in its 17th-century form. Rothenburg emerged from WWll largely intact because the invading British army recognised and valued its historical significance. However, I do not intend for this post to be a history lesson. Instead, I want to focus on showcasing Rothenburg visually. Through my photographs, I aim to stir your senses and encourage you to step back in time and explore this beautiful town.
Why choose Rothenburg for your optional river cruise shore excursion when docked in Wurzburg? With its medieval architecture, narrow cobblestone streets and intact fortification wall, Rothenburg is considered one of the prettiest towns in Germany. It is a medieval town frozen in time and considered Europe’s most perfectly preserved, medieval walled city. Rothenburg is one of Germany’s last remaining walled medieval towns, reached via the ‘Romantic Road’ in the Franconia region of Bavaria in southern Germany. There are photo opportunities everywhere you look.
I chose this excursion because I couldn’t resist visiting a place where the river cruise documents described it as ‘romantic’, ‘walled’, ‘medieval’, ‘preserved’, ‘inviting’, and ‘picturesque’. I was not disappointed and immediately loved this picture-perfect medieval walled town. With its half-timbered houses, elaborate shop signs and window boxes brimming with geraniums, every turn felt like a picture postcard moment.
Which shops do these signs represent? (Answers at the end of the post.)
Rothenburg is famous for its well-preserved architecture, which transports visitors back to the Middle Ages. One of the most striking aspects of Rothenburg’s architecture is its half-timbered houses, a hallmark of medieval German towns. These buildings feature exposed wooden beams, intricate carvings, and colourful facades, often painted in warm red, yellow, or green hues. The upper floors typically extend slightly over the lower ones, creating a quaint and picturesque effect.
Rothenburg is famous for its well-preserved half-timbered buildings.
Although primarily medieval in appearance, Rothenburg’s architecture also features elements of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The Lutheran St. James Church (St. Jakobskirche) is a prime example of Gothic architecture, with its soaring arches and intricate stained-glass windows. Meanwhile, Market Square’s Town Hall (Rathaus) blends Gothic and Renaissance styles with its medieval tower and an elegant Renaissance façade.
The best way to discover Rothenburg is to walk. Its relatively flat streets make it easy to walk around. However, due to its cobblestone streets, flat shoes are advisable.
Walking Rothenburg – a guided orientation tour
Arriving in Rothenburg, our guide led us on an orientation walking tour. The tour took us past St. James Church, through Market Square with its 13th-century Gothic/Renaissance Town Hall, and past fountains, museums, and fantastic architecture. Our guide also described the connection between the shops and their signage before the tour concluded at St. John’s Church.
With the orientation completed, we were left to spend our free time as we pleased.
Walking Rothenburg – free time
The Plonlein (“Small Square”) is the most Instagrammed photo in Rothenburg.
I was ready to explore and photograph Rothenburg, creating my own experience by following my feet. With only a couple of hours to do so, I directed my feet towards what the guide claimed was the town’s most Instagrammed photo (the Plönlein) before heading to its medieval fortifications.
Many people assume the name Plönlein refers to the tilted, crooked, yellow timber-framed house at the entrance to the hospital district (pictured above). In fact, the term Plonlein means “small square at the fountain,” thus also including the fountain in front of the yellow timber-framed house and the two towers of the old city wall on either side of it.
The Plönlein is the most iconic landmark in Rothenburg. It has appeared in several films, including Disney’s Pinocchio, and has inspired various video games, music videos, and comics.
Taking the Kobolzeller Gate (built 1360) to the right as you face the Plönlein’s yellow half-timbered house, I climbed the few steps to the town’s medieval wall. Rothenburg’s medieval wall, built in the 13th century, is four kilometres long and completely encircles the town’s historical centre. Walking along the wall, you will find six gates and 42 towers to explore. With my limited time, I only managed two gates (up through one gate and down through the next) and a handful of towers. Despite all the tourists in town, I had the wall to myself – an enjoyable experience.
Coming off the wall, I walked in a large circle back to Market Square, photographing Rothenburg’s architecture and landmarks en route.
Image Gallery – Rothenburg ob der Tauber:
I was back in Market Square in time for when the clock on the 14th century Councillor’s Tavern performed its hourly ritual. Our guide had informed us that every hour on the hour between 10.00 am and 10.00 pm, two doors open on either side of the clock face. Out of one door comes Rothenburg’s former Mayor, Nusch, and out of the other comes the Catholic General, Tilly, who challenged Nusch to drink a gallon tankard of wine in one go without stopping to save Rothenburg during the Thirty Years’ War. And save the town he did! It’s not the most interesting mechanical clock I have seen on my travels, but I did like the story behind it – the “Legend of the Master Draught”.
The 14th-century Councillor’s Tavern with the “Legend of the Master Draught” mechanical clock.
Unfortunately, my free time in Rothenburg had ended, and it was time for the drive back to the ship. And yet, I had much more to explore and to see and do.
Free time +
Do you have more than a few hours of free time for Rothenburg, say, two or three days? Yes! Here are my tips to help you expand your discovery of this historical picture-perfect destination.
- Visit the gardens that replaced Rothenburg Castle, which was destroyed in an earthquake in 1356.
- Walk the length of the medieval wall, exploring all the gates and towers.
- Visit the Medieval Crime and Justice Museum in the Old Town.
- Hike down into the valley and check out the vineyards.
- Climb the Town Hall Tower to see the views for yourself rather than just read about them.
- Check out the interior of St. James Church and its famous Holy Blood altarpiece.
- Sit in a café in the Market Square and people-watch.
- Try a Schneeball, a local sugary ball of deep-fried dough, even though our guide said they taste horrible.
- Shop at Kathe Wohlfahart’s Christmas store, which is open all year round.
- And much more.
I can only say, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, I will see you again.
My visit to Rothenburg ob der Tauber was nothing short of magical. As I wandered through the town’s narrow streets and along its ancient medieval wall, I was captivated by its stunning architecture and rich history. Each photograph I took seemed to capture a piece of Rothenburg’s timeless charm. Although my time there was short, it left a lasting impression on me. If you ever find yourself in Bavaria, Rothenburg is a destination you won’t want to miss. It’s a place where you can truly step back in time and immerse yourself in the beauty of the medieval era.
Quiz answers:
> The ‘cow’ sign was above the butcher shop.
> The ‘train’ sign was above the toy shop.
Editor’s Note: I first published this blog post in October 2019 and have since revised it for accuracy, thoroughness, and relevance.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
© Just Me Travel 2018-2025. All rights reserved.
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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
© Just Me Travel 2018-2025. All rights reserved.
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