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SEE BEAUTIFUL MELK ABBEY: A Tour Guaranteed to be Special (2025 Update)

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Beautiful Melk Abbey Review – A River Cruise Tour You Should Not Miss.   Sailing down the Danube River through Austria’s Wachau Valley, a sight came into view that seemed…

Beautiful Melk Abbey Review – A River Cruise Tour You Should Not Miss.

 

Sailing down the Danube River through Austria’s Wachau Valley, a sight came into view that seemed straight out of a storybook – Melk Abbey, perched high on a rocky outcrop overlooking the water. With its golden-yellow Baroque façade gleaming in the sunlight, this magnificent Benedictine monastery promised grandeur, history, and breathtaking views. 

As part of a river cruise through central Europe, visiting Melk Abbey was a cultural and architectural highlight I won’t forget. From ornate ceilings and staircases to a library that feels like something out of a fantasy novel, the abbey offered a fascinating glimpse into Austria’s monastic past and Baroque artistry. Whether you’re a history lover, an architecture enthusiast, or someone seeking a unique stop along the Danube, Melk Abbey provides a memorable experience. 

In this post, I share what makes Melk Abbey a standout destination, how I experienced it, and why it deserves a place on your Austrian travel itinerary.

 

About Melk Abbey

Melk Abbey is a magnificent Benedictine monastery in Lower Austria and a masterpiece of Baroque architecture. It is Austria’s largest Baroque structure and one of Europe’s biggest and most beautiful.

The abbey is perched high on a cliff overlooking the Old Town of Melk and the Danube River. It lies at the confluence of the Danube and Melk rivers within the Wachau UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The abbey you see today was built between 1702 and 1736. But Melk Abbey has more than 930 years of history, told in the abbey’s museum. Originally a palace, Melk Abbey was gifted to the Benedictine monks in 1089 and has remained an active abbey ever since. Today, Melk Abbey has 22 monks, a co-educational secondary school with 900 pupils, an extremely well-presented, minimalist museum, and a magnificent church.

My first glimpse of Melk Abbey from the cruise ship on the Danube River was absolutely breathtaking. From every angle, it was impressive – a fairytale vision brought to life. With its ochre-coloured façade and imposing Baroque architecture, Melk Abbey is among the most beautiful buildings. You might have gathered by now that I was truly awestruck by it, and the approach to the abbey’s entrance and guided tour only cemented my delight.

The approach to Melk Abbey’s entrance is through a small garden.

 

Touring Melk Abbey: Highlights and Impressions

The 50-minute guided tour of Melk Abbey (arranged by Viking Cruises) includes the museum rooms, the Marble Hall, the Balcony, and the library. It began with a meet and greet in the expansive outer courtyard, the Gatekeeper’s Courtyard. In this courtyard, there is an oak wood statue of Saint Coloman. The sculpture, crafted by Franz Gundacker using only a chainsaw, is 150 years old, and the oak was sourced from the abbey’s forests.

Saint Coloman was Austria’s first patron saint until 1663. He remains the patron saint of Melk Abbey and the town of Melk and is buried in the abbey church.

From the Gatekeeper’s Courtyard, we passed through the Benedict Hall and into the Prelate’s Courtyard.

The Prelate’s Courtyard features four vivid, contemporary frescoes, replacing the Baroque frescoes that could not be restored. These frescoes represent the four cardinal virtues: Prudence, Temperance, Justice, and Fortitude. The modernist style of the frescoes caused some controversy as people tried to adjust to the move away from the original and expected Baroque style.

Leaving the Prelate’s Courtyard through a narrow passageway, the grand Imperial Staircase leads to the Imperial Wing, the abbey’s museum and library. Known for its impressive scale and Baroque design, it is a significant feature of the abbey’s architecture.

The abbey museum and imperial rooms

The Imperial Wing was originally designed for the imperial court. It consists of the Imperial Corridor and the Imperial Rooms, which now house the Melk Abbey Museum.

The Imperial Corridor, measuring 196 metres in length, is impressive. Portraits of Austria’s rulers adorn its walls – from the first Babenberg Emperor, Leopold I, to the last Habsburg Emperor, Karl I. There are more portraits of the Habsburgs since they ruled longer.

The Melk Abbey Museum, located in the imperial rooms to the left of the Imperial Staircase, is exceptionally well-organised and informative and adopts a minimalist approach. You gain a solid overview of the abbey’s history, both past and present, as well as its cultural, political, and economic functions, without feeling overwhelmed or as though there is too much to absorb, ultimately leaving you none the wiser. There is no information overload here.

The museum consists of 11 small rooms. Its overriding theme is “The Path from Yesterday to Today: Melk Abbey in its Past and Present,” and each room features a specific theme. What follows are snippets of interesting information taken from the guide’s explanations throughout the museum tour and my impressions.

Room 3 (“The Ups and Downs of History”) features a wavy floor, symbolising life’s ups and downs. The flooring is not the original Baroque, as Napoleon was an unfortunate guest who burned documents on it.

Rooms 5 and 6 pay tribute to Melk Abbey’s contribution to the Baroque period. The Baroque period was a historical era marked by excess and all that glitters (gold and more gold). “Heaven on Earth” seems to be an appropriate theme for this period. However, Room 7’s “In the Name of Reason” theme represents new times and a sensible, frugal monarch. Joseph II said the Baroque style was too expensive, but perhaps he was too frugal. Taking the Baroque style to the opposite extreme, he allowed only one coffin per church. The coffin designed to meet this requirement had a bottom that would open, allowing the corpse to drop through. Thus, the church could use the coffin again and again.

Room 10 (“To Glorify God in Everything”) contains a 17th-century iron chest for secure storage and transporting the abbey’s most important documents and treasures. The chest features a convoluted locking mechanism comprising 14 still operational locks.

The detailed model of Melk Abbey housed in Room 11 (“Motion is a Sign of Life”) rotates, allowing you to see all sides unobstructed. A mirror on the ceiling provides a view into the model’s courtyards.

The Marble Hall served as a reception area for guests and a dining hall for the imperial family. The name ‘Marble’ Hall is somewhat misleading, as only the door frames are genuine marble. The ‘marble’ on the walls is faux marble. However, I could overlook this due to the magnificent ceiling fresco, which is complemented and framed by stunning architectural paintings.

The abbey library

The library is the second most important room in any Benedictine monastery, second only to the church.

My favourite library to date has been the Coimbra University Library in Portugal. However, the competition between that library and Melk Abbey’s Library would be close; both are stunningly beautiful, and there is something uniquely special about the mix of dark wood and old books.

The Melk Abbey library, completed in 1735, houses approximately 100,000 books and 1800 manuscripts, some dating back to the 9th century. The uniformity of the books on the inlaid bookshelves results from them being bound to match. With internal balconies, wooden sculptures, a massive free-standing world globe, figurines, and frescoed ceilings, the library offers an entrancing vision. It also exudes peace and tranquillity; it is a place where I could easily spend hours just sitting and soaking in the atmosphere. I am waxing lyrical here, but I can’t help it. The Melk Abbey Library does that to me. It’s no wonder Umberto Eco conducted his research for his book, The Name of the Rose, in Melk Abbey’s library. But more on that later.

The library’s upper floor, added in 1768 and accessed via a Rococo-style spiral staircase, is not open to the public.

Melk Abbey’s literary connection extends beyond the books in its historical library.

The Name of the Rose, written by Umberto Eco (1980), is a historical murder mystery (a medieval whodunit) set in an Italian Cistercian monastery in 1327.

But what does a story about murders in a Cistercian monastery in Italy have to do with a Benedictine monastery in Austria? The connection is Melk Abbey’s magnificent library. The focal point in The Name of the Rose is the library where all the murders take place. Melk Abbey’s library is said to be Eco’s inspiration for the library in The Name of the Rose.

But the connection goes deeper than that. One of Eco’s main characters in The Name of the Rose is Adso of Melk, a Benedictine novice from Melk Abbey. The Name of the Rose is Adso of Melk’s story, as he is the narrator. As a way of introduction, Adso of Melk informs us that he is writing his narrative, now an old man, at Melk Abbey. On the last page of The Name of the Rose, Adso of Melk tells the reader he is leaving his manuscript in the library of Melk Abbey.

The guided tour concluded in the library. I stayed behind to soak in the library’s ambience before visiting the church at the guide’s recommendation.

The abbey church

My visit to Melk Abbey’s church was not part of the guided tour, but it is a must-see due to its Baroque architecture and ornate interior of gold leaf, stucco, and marble.

The Altar of Coloman is noteworthy because it contains a sarcophagus with the remains of Saint Coloman, the patron saint of Melk Abbey. Some of the Babenbergs, Austria’s first rulers, are also buried in the church.

The facade of an ochre-coloured, Baroque church.

Melk Abbey’s church is viewed from The Balcony.

 

The Balcony connecting Marble Hall with the library offers magnificent views of Melk’s Old Town and the Melk and Danube rivers.

 

Helpful Information

Photography is prohibited inside Melk Abbey’s museum, Marble Hall, the library, and the church.

You don’t have to take the 50-minute guided tour of Melk Abbey (except in the winter months). However, in my opinion, this would be a false economy, as the explanations provided by the guide throughout the tour were invaluable. The guide’s storytelling brought Melk Abbey to life, revealing all its traits.

Melk Abbey’s brochure for individual guests provides detailed information on prices, guided tour times, and a tourist map of the abbey.

I visited Melk Abbey on a shore excursion during a river cruise along the Danube River. However, you can reach Melk by train from Vienna if you’re not on a river cruise. I recommend leaving enough time to explore the old town of Melk.

 

Melk Abbey isn’t just a beautiful building perched above the Danube; it’s a living piece of Austrian history, rich in art, culture, and spiritual significance. Touring its imperial rooms, ornate church, and the awe-inspiring library was unforgettable. It’s no surprise that Melk Abbey is one of the most photographed stops on Danube River cruises. 

Whether cruising through the Wachau Valley or planning a land-based visit, Melk Abbey is absolutely worth your time. It’s a place where history breathes through frescoed ceilings, golden altars, and ancient manuscripts. It was a highlight of the cruise and one of the most memorable experiences of my trip through Austria.

If you’re looking for a cultural gem that combines architecture, history, and fabulous scenery, include Melk Abbey in your itinerary. You won’t be disappointed; I guarantee it is something special.

 

Editor’s Note: I first published this blog post in November 2019 and have since revised it for accuracy, thoroughness, and relevance.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025. All rights reserved.

 

Have you visited Melk Abbey or taken a Danube River cruise? I’d love to hear about your experience – drop a comment below!

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Join the conversation.

 

Like this post? Save it for later!

If you’re dreaming of river cruising through Austria or planning your next cultural escape, don’t forget to save this post to Pinterest for easy access later.

An image with two photos: one of an ochre-coloured Baroque abbey on top of a hill, and the other of a modern fresco representing the cardinal virtue of Temperance. The image invites you to see Melk Abbey.

 

An image with two photos: one of a small garden in front of a building and the other of a Baroque entrance into a courtyard. The image invites you to see Melk Abbey.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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© Just Me Travel 2018-2025. All rights reserved.

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9 min read
Destinations Europe Germany Photo Stories River Cruises

HOW BEST TO SPEND YOUR FREE TIME IN ROTHENBURG: A Pretty Medieval City (2025 Update)

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A River Cruiser’s Guide: The Best of Rothenburg in a Few Hours.   Rothenburg ob der Tauber is the kind of place that feels like stepping into a medieval fairy…

A River Cruiser’s Guide: The Best of Rothenburg in a Few Hours.

 

Rothenburg ob der Tauber is the kind of place that feels like stepping into a medieval fairy tale. With its half-timbered houses, cobblestone streets, and well-preserved city walls, this charming Bavarian town is a highlight for travellers exploring Germany. I visited Rothenburg on a shore excursion during a river cruise, which included an orientation walking tour before we were free to wander at our own pace. With just a couple of hours to explore, I set off on my own to soak up the town’s enchanting atmosphere, admire its stunning medieval architecture, and walk along the historic city walls. Here’s how I spent my free time in this picture-perfect destination.

 

About Rothenburg

Rothenburg is the common name for this German town, officially known as Rothenburg ob der Tauber. The translation of Rothenburg ob der Tauber is “Red Fortress above the Tauber.” This name is fitting, as the town sits on a plateau above the Tauber River. “Red Fortress” comes from “rot” (red) and “burg” (burgh, fortified settlement) and is attributed by some to the red roofs of Rothenburg’s houses within the fortifications.

‘Red Fortress’ – the red roofs of Rothenburg’s houses within its fortifications.

 

Rothenburg represents 1,000 years of history in the making. Once one of the largest cities in the Holy Roman Empire, it survived a siege in 1631 during the Thirty Years’ War between Protestant and Catholic states (1618-1648) and faced stagnation in 1634 due to poverty and plague. This latter factor preserved Rothenburg in its 17th-century form. Rothenburg emerged from WWll largely intact because the invading British army recognised and valued its historical significance. However, I do not intend for this post to be a history lesson. Instead, I want to focus on showcasing Rothenburg visually. Through my photographs, I aim to stir your senses and encourage you to step back in time and explore this beautiful town.

Why choose Rothenburg for your optional river cruise shore excursion when docked in Wurzburg? With its medieval architecture, narrow cobblestone streets and intact fortification wall, Rothenburg is considered one of the prettiest towns in Germany. It is a medieval town frozen in time and considered Europe’s most perfectly preserved, medieval walled city. Rothenburg is one of Germany’s last remaining walled medieval towns, reached via the ‘Romantic Road’ in the Franconia region of Bavaria in southern Germany. There are photo opportunities everywhere you look.

I chose this excursion because I couldn’t resist visiting a place where the river cruise documents described it as ‘romantic’, ‘walled’, ‘medieval’, ‘preserved’, ‘inviting’, and ‘picturesque’. I was not disappointed and immediately loved this picture-perfect medieval walled town. With its half-timbered houses, elaborate shop signs and window boxes brimming with geraniums, every turn felt like a picture postcard moment.

Which shops do these signs represent? (Answers at the end of the post.)

Rothenburg is famous for its well-preserved architecture, which transports visitors back to the Middle Ages. One of the most striking aspects of Rothenburg’s architecture is its half-timbered houses, a hallmark of medieval German towns. These buildings feature exposed wooden beams, intricate carvings, and colourful facades, often painted in warm red, yellow, or green hues. The upper floors typically extend slightly over the lower ones, creating a quaint and picturesque effect.

Medieval half-timbered building.

Rothenburg is famous for its well-preserved half-timbered buildings.

 

Although primarily medieval in appearance, Rothenburg’s architecture also features elements of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The Lutheran St. James Church (St. Jakobskirche) is a prime example of Gothic architecture, with its soaring arches and intricate stained-glass windows. Meanwhile, Market Square’s Town Hall (Rathaus) blends Gothic and Renaissance styles with its medieval tower and an elegant Renaissance façade.

The best way to discover Rothenburg is to walk. Its relatively flat streets make it easy to walk around. However, due to its cobblestone streets, flat shoes are advisable.

Walking Rothenburg – a guided orientation tour

Arriving in Rothenburg, our guide led us on an orientation walking tour. The tour took us past St. James Church, through Market Square with its 13th-century Gothic/Renaissance Town Hall, and past fountains, museums, and fantastic architecture. Our guide also described the connection between the shops and their signage before the tour concluded at St. John’s Church.

With the orientation completed, we were left to spend our free time as we pleased.

Walking Rothenburg – free time

The Plonlein (“Small Square”) is the most Instagrammed photo in Rothenburg.

I was ready to explore and photograph Rothenburg, creating my own experience by following my feet. With only a couple of hours to do so, I directed my feet towards what the guide claimed was the town’s most Instagrammed photo (the Plönlein) before heading to its medieval fortifications.

Many people assume the name Plönlein refers to the tilted, crooked, yellow timber-framed house at the entrance to the hospital district (pictured above). In fact, the term Plonlein means “small square at the fountain,” thus also including the fountain in front of the yellow timber-framed house and the two towers of the old city wall on either side of it.

The Plönlein is the most iconic landmark in Rothenburg. It has appeared in several films, including Disney’s Pinocchio, and has inspired various video games, music videos, and comics.

Taking the Kobolzeller Gate (built 1360) to the right as you face the Plönlein’s yellow half-timbered house, I climbed the few steps to the town’s medieval wall. Rothenburg’s medieval wall, built in the 13th century, is four kilometres long and completely encircles the town’s historical centre. Walking along the wall, you will find six gates and 42 towers to explore. With my limited time, I only managed two gates (up through one gate and down through the next) and a handful of towers. Despite all the tourists in town, I had the wall to myself – an enjoyable experience.

Coming off the wall, I walked in a large circle back to Market Square, photographing Rothenburg’s architecture and landmarks en route.

Image Gallery – Rothenburg ob der Tauber:

I was back in Market Square in time for when the clock on the 14th century Councillor’s Tavern performed its hourly ritual. Our guide had informed us that every hour on the hour between 10.00 am and 10.00 pm, two doors open on either side of the clock face. Out of one door comes Rothenburg’s former Mayor, Nusch, and out of the other comes the Catholic General, Tilly, who challenged Nusch to drink a gallon tankard of wine in one go without stopping to save Rothenburg during the Thirty Years’ War. And save the town he did! It’s not the most interesting mechanical clock I have seen on my travels, but I did like the story behind it – the “Legend of the Master Draught”.

The facade of a clock with two figures in a window on either side of the clock.

The 14th-century Councillor’s Tavern with the “Legend of the Master Draught” mechanical clock.

 

Unfortunately, my free time in Rothenburg had ended, and it was time for the drive back to the ship. And yet, I had much more to explore and to see and do.

Free time +

Do you have more than a few hours of free time for Rothenburg, say, two or three days? Yes! Here are my tips to help you expand your discovery of this historical picture-perfect destination.

  • Visit the gardens that replaced Rothenburg Castle, which was destroyed in an earthquake in 1356.
  • Walk the length of the medieval wall, exploring all the gates and towers.
  • Visit the Medieval Crime and Justice Museum in the Old Town.
  • Hike down into the valley and check out the vineyards.
  • Climb the Town Hall Tower to see the views for yourself rather than just read about them.
  • Check out the interior of St. James Church and its famous Holy Blood altarpiece.
  • Sit in a café in the Market Square and people-watch.
  • Try a Schneeball, a local sugary ball of deep-fried dough, even though our guide said they taste horrible.
  • Shop at Kathe Wohlfahart’s Christmas store, which is open all year round.
  • And much more.

I can only say, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, I will see you again.

 

My visit to Rothenburg ob der Tauber was nothing short of magical. As I wandered through the town’s narrow streets and along its ancient medieval wall, I was captivated by its stunning architecture and rich history. Each photograph I took seemed to capture a piece of Rothenburg’s timeless charm. Although my time there was short, it left a lasting impression on me. If you ever find yourself in Bavaria, Rothenburg is a destination you won’t want to miss. It’s a place where you can truly step back in time and immerse yourself in the beauty of the medieval era.

 

Quiz answers:

> The ‘cow’ sign was above the butcher shop.

> The ‘train’ sign was above the toy shop.

 

Editor’s Note: I first published this blog post in October 2019 and have since revised it for accuracy, thoroughness, and relevance.

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025. All rights reserved.

 

Would history and architecture lovers get more out of Rothenburg than casual tourists?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Join the conversation.

 

Like this post? Save it for later!

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

Sign up to receive the latest in travel destinations, topics, resources and guides.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025. All rights reserved.

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Africa Destinations Reviews River Cruises

UNIQUE AFRICAN RIVER SAFARI – The Perfect Chobe River Boat Cruise

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Cruising Along the Chobe River Provides a Different Perspective on Wildlife Viewing Than a Traditional Land-Based Safari.   Gliding along the tranquil waters of the Chobe River, where Namibia and…

Cruising Along the Chobe River Provides a Different Perspective on Wildlife Viewing Than a Traditional Land-Based Safari.

 

Gliding along the tranquil waters of the Chobe River, where Namibia and Botswana meet, I embarked on a safari experience unlike any other. Onboard the Chobe Princess houseboat, I had a front-row seat to one of Africa’s most spectacular wildlife displays – without even stepping onto land. The river offered a unique vantage point for the thriving activity on the riverbank. From magnificent elephants and watchful hippos to resting crocodiles and playful baboons, my two-night Chobe River Safari left me with unforgettable memories. 

In this post, I share the highlights of my Chobe River safari, including how to reach the Chobe Princess, the best time to visit, and what makes this corner of Africa a must-see for wildlife enthusiasts. I hope this post inspires you to embark on your own Chobe River adventure.

 

About the Chobe River

The Chobe River begins in the mountains of Angola, flows through the neck of Namibia’s Caprivi Strip, forms the border between Namibia and Botswana, and then flows into the Zambezi River.

The Chobe River is the meeting point of four countries – Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia, and Zambia. Read on to learn why this created an interesting triple border crossing for me to reach my river cruise boat.

The Chobe River flows for 60 kilometres through Chobe National Park. It serves as a lifeline for a variety of animals, drawing them in for drinking, bathing, and resting. The riverfront is famous for seeing large herds of elephants and Cape Buffalo, pods of hippos, lions, crocodiles, and many bird species.

I cruised the Chobe River with the Zambezi Queen Collection on the Chobe Princess houseboat.

Getting there

Zambezi Queen Collection’s houseboats officially cruise on the Namibian side of the Chobe River. However, because they are quite remote, the easiest access to them is from Kasane in Botswana.

I travelled to the Chobe Princess from Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. I arrived in and/or left three countries in the space of one and a half hours: I left Zimbabwe, arrived in Botswana, left Botswana, and arrived in Namibia! Each border crossing required queuing for immigration, filling out forms, and paying for visas. I did wonder if I would have enough pages in my passport to accommodate all the stamps.

After crossing the border from Zimbabwe into Botswana, I was driven into Kasane to cross the border from Botswana to Namibia. Upon exiting Botswanan immigration, a Chobe Princess crew member took me by speed boat to Namibia’s border control and immigration on Impalila Island. Alighting from the speed boat, I had to walk up a hill to get to the Namibian immigration office. Luckily, I could leave my bag with the crew member in the speed boat! At one point, with the immigration building in sight, there was a sign that read, “Take a deep breath, you’re almost there”. At the gate to the immigration building’s enclosure, there was another sign, “Congratulations, you’ve made it”. I later learned that a Chobe Princess manager was responsible for the signs – to make the slog up the hill more bearable!

Having completed all my border crossings, we sped down the Chobe River for about half an hour to meet up with the Chobe Princess, which didn’t stop for me to board. But it was cruising very slowly, so I was able to transfer from the speed boat to the houseboat without mishap.

About the Chobe Princess houseboat

The Zambezi Queen Collection has a fleet of houseboats cruising the Chobe River – the luxury Zambezi Queen and three Chobe Princesses.

Two houseboats are moored to the riverbank.

Two moored Chobe Princess houseboats. I took this photo from the third Chobe Princess.

 

I cruised the Chobe River on the larger (five-cabin) Chobe Princess. My two-night package included all meals, soft drinks and water, local beers and wines, teas and coffee, and morning and afternoon river safaris (water-based game viewing).

I only took a two-night cruise instead of three nights because I had made a last-minute booking. I would have preferred a three-night cruise as I was sad to say goodbye to the Chobe River and my unique wildlife experience.

The houseboat looked tired and could have used some updating. (I understand the Chobe Princess houseboats have recently been upgraded.) My standard cabin was big enough for a king-sized bed, but that was all, and I couldn’t turn around in the bathroom. The electricity struggled and kept cutting out, which meant the cabin never really cooled down, and batteries took forever to charge. The meals were hit and miss, ranging from okay to delicious. However, none of this detracted from my wonderful cruising and game-viewing experiences, and the service was excellent.

The Chobe Princess offered an informal, relaxed, and intimate river cruise with a unique game-viewing experience. It traversed the Chobe River along the banks of Botswana’s Chobe National Park. How far you travel on the river will depend on water levels, as houseboats can get stuck if the river is too low. However, you travel further up and down the river on the Chobe Princess’ safari boat – a small open aluminium boat with an outboard motor (known as a tinnie in Australia).

My African river safari

While the Chobe Princess operates from the Namibian side of the Chobe River, I am sure we were more often in Botswana than Namibia when motoring up and down the river in the safari boat when viewing wildlife from the water!

Game viewing from the river offers a truly unique wildlife safari perspective.

What I learned and saw:

  • Elephants can’t swim. When they cross the river, they are walking on the riverbed. A baby elephant will hang onto their mother’s tail, and auntie comes behind, lifting the baby every so often for its trunk to go out of the water so it can breathe. It’s funny watching these little trunks and nothing else appear above the water. Something you won’t see on a land safari!
Only the trunks and tops of heads can be seen of these elephants crossing a river.

Elephants cross the Chobe River.

 

  • I saw a baby elephant drinking from the river with its mouth instead of its trunk. I learned that baby elephants cannot use their trunks until three months old.
Elephants stand in the river by the bank drinking from the river. A baby elephant is drinking with its mouth and not its trunk.

This baby elephant drinks with his mouth as he hasn’t learned to use his trunk.

 

  • I watched a baby elephant flapping its trunk around because it didn’t know what it was for or how to use it.
  • I saw elephants lying down with other elephants standing in a circle around them, guarding them. When I saw this for the first time, I asked my river safari guide if the elephant was lying down because it was giving birth or was sick and dying. I was assured the elephant was just resting. I later saw several elephants being guarded while lying down, so I had to believe my guide when he said they were just resting and not sick.
Several elephants stand around three elephants lying on the ground.

Elephants protect resting herd members.

 

Several elephants stand around a baby elephant lying on the ground.

Elephants stand guard over a sleeping baby.

 

  • I laughed as I watched a baby elephant make five attempts to get up a tricky part of the riverbank before succeeding.
  • I watched two juvenile male elephants playing at aggression.
  • Cape Buffalos look like a storybook Heidi, with a big bone across their foreheads and turned-up horns like pigtails.
A head and neck closeup shot of a Cape Buffalo.

A Cape Buffalo.

 

  • The hippopotamus is the most dangerous land animal in Africa, killing about 500 people per year. They are massive, fiercely territorial, aggressive, agile in and out of the water, have long sharp teeth in a huge jaw, and can run up to 30 kilometres an hour on land. So, you can understand why hippos are such a fearsome animal to encounter!
A hippo is walking on the riverbank heading for the river.

A hippo heads for the river.

 

  • Hippos don’t poop on land. They poop in the water and use their tails to fling it as far as up to ten metres away.
A hippo stands in the water pooping and flicking it around with its tail.

A hippo pooping in the water and flicking it around.

 

  • Crocodiles were resting on the riverbank, and one was sitting on her eggs.
A closeup, side-on head shot of a crocodile with its eye open and mouth closed but still showing its sharp teeth.

A crocodile rests on the riverbank.

 

  • A social group of baboons down by the river were feeding their young, eating, preening, and playing.
Four baboons of various ages sitting on the ground. One is preening another and a baby is hanging onto its mother's arm.

Baboons on the riverbank.

 

  • Waterbucks are easily distinguishable because of the ‘target’ (white ring) on their rump.
A waterbuck is grazing on a grassy plain.

A waterbuck.

 

  • Giraffes must spread their front legs to drink or eat grass. This makes them highly vulnerable to predatory animals because they can’t get up quickly.
A photo of two giraffes. One has spread its legs to eat the grass while the other is stand close by.

A giraffe spreads its legs to eat grass while another stands watch.

 

Why I recommend a Chobe River Safari on the Chobe Princess

A cruise on the Chobe River offers a unique wildlife safari experience that differs from traditional land safaris. Here are some compelling reasons why I recommend a multi-day Chobe River cruise:

  • Intimate and comfortable accommodation: The Chobe Princess is a small houseboat that accommodates a maximum of ten passengers. While my cabin was sufficient, the service was personalised, the sundeck was furnished with comfortable lounges, and the cruising was relaxed.
  • Abundant wildlife: The Chobe River is known for its dense wildlife population, especially during the dry season when animals amass along the riverbanks. You can spot elephants, hippos, crocodiles, buffalo, and various bird species. Since the river provides a natural water source, it’s a prime location to observe animals in their natural habitat, often at close range.
  • Convenient and comfortable game viewing: A river cruise offers a leisurely and comfortable way to see wildlife instead of driving around in a vehicle for hours. You can relax on the Chobe Princess’ sundeck with a drink while enjoying panoramic views as the boat drifts along the river.
  • Unique water-based perspective: Seeing animals from the water as you cruise along the Chobe River provides a different perspective on wildlife than a traditional land-based safari.
An elephant walks along the riverbank while three hippos immerse themselves in the water.

Where else would you get this wildlife perspective except on a Chobe River safari cruise?

 

  • Exclusive and peaceful: Being on the water, you escape the crowds and busy roads often found in popular safari parks. As such, you experience a quieter and more intimate encounter with nature, especially on a smaller vessel like the Chobe Princess.
  • It’s an adventure: Getting to the Chobe Princess (described earlier in this post) was an adventure I wouldn’t miss.

If you love wildlife and an unforgettable safari experience, a Chobe River cruise on the Chobe Princess is definitely worth considering.

A note on when to go

I cruised the Chobe River in early November when the dry season, described as “Lots of wildlife on the riverbanks”, had just ended. The dry season is a time when many animals gather around and stay close to the main water source, and you can watch them as you cruise by.

November is generally the start of the wet season. However, I experienced no rain and wildlife viewing along the riverbank was exceptional, especially for herds of elephants, pods of hippos, buffalo, crocodiles, and monkeys, which were drawn to the water.

 

My two-night wildlife safari cruise on the Chobe River was an unforgettable experience. The combination of the river’s natural beauty, the abundant wildlife, and the comfort of the Chobe River houseboat created a truly magical journey. If you seek a unique safari experience – one where the wildlife comes to you – this is it! 

Whether you’re a seasoned traveller or a nature enthusiast, a safari cruise on the Chobe River promises an adventure like no other – one that I can’t recommend enough. The memories made during this trip will stay with me for a lifetime.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2024.

 

Where was your favourite river cruise?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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The image has two photos: a herd of elephants coming down to the river to drink and a closeup head shot of a Cape Buffalo.

The image has two photos: elephants crossing a river with only their trunks above water and a hippo walking towards the water.

 

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SEE 3 ASTOUNDING ENGINEERING MARVELS ON THE CANAL DU MIDI

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Embark on an Unforgettable Journey on France’s Canal du Midi and Experience Extraordinary Engineering Feats That Are Works of Art.   What do you know about the Canal du Midi? …

Embark on an Unforgettable Journey on France’s Canal du Midi and Experience Extraordinary Engineering Feats That Are Works of Art.

 

What do you know about the Canal du Midi? 

Set against the picturesque landscape of southern France, the Canal du Midi is a serene waterway and a testament to human creativity and engineering brilliance. Prepare to be awe-struck by three engineering marvels that have stood the test of time and captivated all who encounter them.

In this travel blog post, I invite you to join me on a journey uncovering the stories behind the three remarkable wonders of human ingenuity I discovered when sailing from Marseillan to Salleles d’Aude on a hotel barge on the historic Canal du Midi: the masterfully constructed Orb Aqueduct that defies gravity, the intricately designed seven-step Fonserannes Locks that challenge navigation skills, and the mystical Malpas Tunnel that channels the canal through a hill.

I am not an engineering expert, but crossing the Orb Aqueduct, climbing the Fonserannes Locks, and traversing the Malpas Tunnel were extraordinary experiences and unforgettable highlights of my barge cruise on the Canal du Midi with European Waterways. They have left a lasting impression on me that I want to share with you, and I hope you get to experience them for yourself.

 

The Canal du Midi

A boat sails along a tree-lined canal.

Cruising the Canal du Midi

 

The Canal du Midi in southern France was constructed between 1666 and 1681 by the 17th-century canal engineer Pierre-Paul Riquet. It is considered one of the most significant construction works of the 17th century and is one of the oldest canals still in use in Europe. The Canal du Midi was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.

The Canal du Midi runs for 240 kilometres from the Etang de Thau, a sheltered lagoon behind the Mediterranean port of Sete, to Toulouse, where it joins the Canal de Garonne – connecting the Mediterranean Sea to the Atlantic Ocean. The Etang de Thau at Marseillan was the starting point for my barge cruise on the Canal du Midi with European Waterways.

I cruised the Canal du Midi on European Waterway’s first-class, eight-passenger hotel barge, the Adjodi. The section of the Canal du Midi we cruised included three impressive 17th-century engineering feats – the Orb Aqueduct, Fonserannes Locks, and Malpas Tunnel. But you don’t need to be an engineer to appreciate, enjoy, and be thrilled by these wonders of the Canal du Midi.

A sunset is reflected in the waters of a tree-lined canal.

The sun sets on another day on the Cana du Midi.

 

Orb Aqueduct

A boat sails through aqueduct - a water bridge.

Our barge navigates the Canal du Midi along the Orb Aqueduct at Beziers.

 

A photo of a barge navigating the Orb Aqueduct (Pont-Canal de l’Orbat) at Beziers in southern France has always been my ‘vision’ of the Canal du Midi and one of the reasons I wanted to do a barge cruise on the canal. No other image of the Canal du Midi was more iconic than the Orb Aqueduct.

The Orb Aqueduct is a one-lane bridge carrying the Canal du Midi over the Orb River. At 240 metres long, 28 metres wide, 12 metres high, and with seven arches, the Orb Aqueduct is one of the largest aqueducts in France and the largest on the Canal du Midi. Prior to the opening of the Orb Aqueduct in 1858, the Canal du Midi traversed a short, treacherous section of the Orb River that would sink boats or leave them stranded for weeks due to its unpredictable flow. Building the aqueduct allowed boats to bypass the dangerous Orb River safely.

The aqueduct carries the canal in a masonry trough sealed with a layer of concrete. The concrete seal was replaced in 1951; otherwise, the original structure still exists. You can walk the length of Orb Aqueduct as there is a towpath on both sides.

The Orb Aqueduct was classified as a National Historical Monument in 1962 and was listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1996.

A water bridge carrying the Canal du Midi over the river below.

Six of the Orb Aqueduct’s seven arches.

 

A bridge carrying water over a river below.

The Orb Aqueduct carries the Canal du Midi over the River Orb.

 

Fonserannes Locks

The image shows the mechanisms on top of seven lock gates that climb up a hill.

The seven-rise lock staircase or Fonserannes.

 

Locks are an integral part of any barge cruise, and on the Canal du Midi, I got my gratifying fill of them. However, none would raise my excitement or sense of adventure as much as the seven-rise lock staircase of Fonserannes (also known as the Fonserannes Locks or the Fonserannes Staircase) near the town of Beziers.

When the Canal du Midi was constructed in the 17th century, Pierre-Paul Riquet had to overcome the problem of crossing the Orb River, which was 48 metres higher than the natural course of the canal waterway. The answer was the Fonserannes Lock Staircase, a staggering feat of engineering and very impressive, even to my untrained eye. It is one of the features that led to the Canal du Midi being declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.

Fonserannes Lock Staircase is a 312-metre-long water staircase, allowing boats and barges to negotiate a 25-metre gradient by passing through seven oval-shaped lock chambers and eight gates. There is an eighth chamber, but it is no longer in use. Boats are raised (or lowered) 21.5 metres over a distance of 300 metres, with the deepest rise (or drop) over six metres.

A boat is in a lock chamber on the Canal du Midi. This is a staircase lock system of which there are seven ovoid chambers and eight gates.

A boat climbs the Fonserannes Staircase Locks.

 

We approached the Fonserannes seven-rise lock staircase from the Orb Aqueduct and travelled up the lock staircase. Our barge captain took over 30 minutes to negotiate the boat’s climb through the seven chambers. The force and speed at which the water rushes into the chamber when a gate opens is astounding.

A boat moves into the rushing waters of a filling lock chamber.

Our barge navigates through Fonserannes Locks.

 

One lock chamber must have been particularly challenging because going under the bridge that spanned the gate dislodged the height indicator pole (a red flag on a pole on the boat’s bow). As I understand it, the lockkeeper allowed too much water to enter the lock, making the water in the chamber higher than it should have been. Our captain had to duck very low to ensure his head didn’t connect with the bridge.

A boat travels under a low bridge as it enters a lock chamber with water starting to rush through the opening gate into the next lock chamber.

A low bridge knocked over the red-flagged height indicator pole.

 

We stopped for the night at the top of Fonserannes Staircase Locks. So, I took the opportunity to walk the towpath back to the Orb Aqueduct, an easy, flat 20-minute walk.

Malpas Tunnel

A boat approaches a tunnel in a hill with the canal passing through the tunnel.

Our barge approaches the Malpas Tunnel on the Canal du Midi.

 

The Malpas Tunnel, between Bezier and Capstang on the Canal du Midi, was the first tunnel ever dug for a canal. The tunnel was excavated in 1679 in secret by the canal’s chief engineer, Pierre-Paul Riquet, as the Prime Minister had stopped the plan to dig a canal tunnel through Enserune Hill because initial excavations revealed the tunnel was liable to collapse due to the hill being brittle sandstone. Over 300 years later, the Malpas Tunnel is still navigable! And there is now even a railway tunnel ten metres below the canal tunnel, built nearly 200 years later!

Local folklore has it that after the completion of the Malpas Tunnel, one of the workers built a small nook inside the tunnel’s ceiling and lived there as a hermit. When barges passed through the tunnel, the crew threw bread into the opening for the hermit. Barge crews still sometimes throw a piece of bread into the opening of the nook as a “gift for the hermit”.

Our captain did not throw bread into the opening in the ceiling, but he did play the finale of Tchaikovsky’s 1812 Overture (at least, I think that was what it was). I did not fathom the relevance of this, but the music sounded incredible and very dramatic as it echoed off the tunnel walls.

A boat exits a tunnel that carries the Canal du Midi through the hill. A man is steering the boat.

The hermit nook in the ceiling of Malpas Tunnel.

 

Canal de Jonction

I want to leave you with my favourite photo I took on the Canal du Midi barge cruise. It is not the Canal du Midi per se but taken when we stopped for the night at Salleles d’Aude on the Canal de Jonction. The Canal de Jonction is a shortcut from the Canal du Midi to the Canal de la Robine. It was early morning, the water was milk-pond still, and the reflections of our barge and the trees lining the canal created an unforgettable image.

A blue and white barge is tied up to the bank of a tree-lined canal. The barge and trees are reflected in the still waters of the canal. A lock can be seen in the distance.

The Adjodi reflected in the still waters at Salleles d’Aude on the Canal de Jonction.

 

Reflecting on my journey along the Canal du Midi, I am in awe of the ingenuity and determination that brought these three remarkable engineering marvels to life. The Orb Aqueduct is a testament to the courage of human vision, carrying the canal over the valley below. The Fonserannes Locks remind us of our ability to conquer and harness the raw forces of nature. And then there is the Malpas Tunnel, a hidden passage shrouded in history and mystery carved through solid rock.

As you traverse the tranquil waters of the Canal du Midi, it’s impossible not to be humbled by the visionaries who conceived these extraordinary structures. Their dedication to crafting a passage that conquered natural obstacles while blending with the landscape continues to inspire admiration centuries later.

Whether you’re a history buff, an engineering enthusiast, or a traveller searching for unique experiences, the Canal du Midi’s engineering marvels promise an unforgettable journey.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2023.

 

Leave a comment below. I look forward to reading and responding to your comments on the Canal du Midi and its engineering marvels.

 

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The image shows two photos. One photo is of a boat reflected in the waters of a tree-lined canal. The other photo is a boat sailing on an aqueduct (a water bridge). These are engineering marvels on the Canal du Midi.

The image is two photos - a boat entering the swirling waters of a lock chamber and the other is a boat, steered by a man, exiting a tunnel.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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