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BARDO NATIONAL MUSEUM: Three Stunning Mosaics That Caught My Eye

Masterpieces in Mosaic: A Visit to the Bardo Museum in Tunis   If you want to understand just how rich and diverse Tunisia’s history is, a visit to the Bardo…

Masterpieces in Mosaic: A Visit to the Bardo Museum in Tunis

 

If you want to understand just how rich and diverse Tunisia’s history is, a visit to the Bardo National Museum in Tunis is a must. Housed in a magnificent former palace, the museum takes visitors on a journey through thousands of years of Tunisian history, from prehistoric times through the Punic, Roman, and Byzantine periods to Tunisia’s Islamic heritage.

For me, the Bardo was much more than a traditional archaeological museum. It brought together many of the historical stories I encountered while visiting Tunisia’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It offered a fascinating opportunity to see some of the country’s most important archaeological treasures under one roof.

And then there were the mosaics! And there were plenty of them! But the museum’s extraordinary collection of Roman mosaics particularly captured my attention.

 

The Bardo National Museum houses the world’s largest collection of Roman mosaics, depicting mythological scenes, marine life, hunting, agriculture, and daily life, all crafted by skilled artisans. I was struck by the variety of subjects and the level of detail achieved with tiny pieces of stone and glass. As I walked through the museum, the sheer number and scale of the mosaics impressed me most. Many are enormous, while others are smaller yet incredibly intricate, each telling a story.

In particular, three mosaics captured my imagination:

  • Triumph of Neptune
  • Ulysses and the Sirens
  • Dionysus Punishing the Pirates

These are the three I want to share with you.

 

The Triumph of Neptune

One of the Bardo’s most impressive mosaics is the enormous Triumph of Neptune, often titled The Triumph of Neptune and the Four Seasons. It’s hard to miss, as it dominates the museum’s entrance hall and is one of the best-preserved ancient mosaics in the world. It’s a wonderful introduction to what’s to come.

Originally from Sousse, the mosaic dates to the late 2nd century CE and depicts a muscular Neptune, the Roman god of the sea, with a halo around his head and riding a chariot drawn by four hippocamps – mythical creatures with horse-like upper bodies and fish tails. Two partially submerged sea gods escort and guide Neptune’s chariot: a Triton (half-man, half-fish) and a Nereid (sea nymph). In the corners of the mosaic are female figures representing the four seasons, along with agricultural scenes and decorative flora.

The massive Triumph of Neptune mosaic is the first major masterpiece seen upon entering the Bardo National Museum in Tunis.

 

The mosaic is enormous, measuring about 135 square metres. Once embedded as a floor mosaic in a wealthy Roman seaside villa or private baths, it is now displayed vertically at the Bardo National Museum so visitors can see the entire composition at once.

Imagine walking across something this elaborate nearly 2,000 years ago!

The photograph above doesn’t do justice to the mosaic’s true size. You can only appreciate its scale by standing in front of it.

The mosaic’s details are easier to see in a close-up photograph than when viewing it as a whole.

 

Ulysses and the Sirens

Another particularly memorable mosaic was Ulysses and the Sirens. It stood out because I immediately recognised it as the famous episode from Homer’s epic poem The Odyssey, in which Ulysses (Odysseus) and his crew go to great lengths to avoid the Sirens’ lethal songs. According to the story, Ulysses knows that the Sirens’ beautiful singing will tempt sailors to their death. He therefore has his crew plug their ears with beeswax while he has himself tied to the ship’s mast so he can listen to the Sirens without being lured by them, while his crew rows past them safely.

The famous mosaic Ulysses and the Sirens is found in the Bardo’s appropriately named Ulysses Room.

 

Ulysses and the Sirens is a 3rd-century floor mosaic discovered at Dougga. It is significant as one of the few ancient illustrations of Ulysses’ perilous sea journeys. Having visited Dougga myself, I found that connection especially exciting. I’d walked among the ruins of the ancient city and seen the remains of the buildings where people once lived. Here at the Bardo, I saw one of the remarkable artworks discovered at Dougga. It added another dimension to my visit to the archaeological site.

This mosaic is much more than a decorative floor. Its details, including the individual figures and the story being told, drew me in for quite some time.

 

Panther-Dionysus and the Pirates

The third mosaic that really caught my attention tells another dramatic story. This time, the central figure is Dionysus, the Greek god of wine, ecstasy, and the wild, known to the Romans as Bacchus. The story comes from the myth of the Tyrrhenian pirates, who captured Dionysus to sell him into slavery, not realising they had taken a god. When the crew discovered who their captive really was, they wanted to release him. But too late! A panther materialised on board, sending the pirates overboard. As they dived into the water, they were turned into dolphins.

The wonderful Panther-Dionysus and the Pirates mosaic is displayed in the Dougga Room of the Bardo National Museum. With so much detail, the longer you linger, the more you notice.

 

This mosaic is full of action. But now that you know the story, there’s no way you can’t see it. As you look closely, you can see the story unfolding across the mosaic – the panther, the pirates, the dolphins, and the other figures surrounding Dionysus.

 

Why the Mosaics Impressed Me

What struck me most about the mosaics at the Bardo National Museum wasn’t just their age, but how they tell stories that connect us to the past and inspire curiosity and admiration.

The Triumph of Ulysses is spectacular because of its enormous size and extraordinary detail.

Ulysses and the Sirens appealed to me because I could recognise a story that has survived thousands of years, and because of its connection to Dougga, a place I had visited during my time in Tunisia.

The Panther-Dionysus and the Pirates mosaic impressed me for its detailed, lively depiction of a dramatic myth.

Each mosaic showcases incredible craftsmanship, demonstrating the skill of ancient artisans and the importance of storytelling in their art, inspiring respect for their talent.

 

More Than Just Mosaics

Although the mosaics were the main reason I enjoyed my visit to the Bardo National Museum, they are only part of what the museum contains. The collections span a remarkable range of Tunisian history, from the Punic and Roman periods to later Islamic heritage.

Housed in a former palace, the museum offers stunning architecture and decorative details that create an inspiring atmosphere for exploring Tunisia’s history.

The Bardo National Museum is housed in a grand, multi-era palace that seamlessly blends medieval Hafsid foundations with opulent Ottoman and Andalusian architectural details, including intricate stucco ceilings and sweeping arched courtyards.

 

For me, however, the mosaics are what have stayed with me since I left. Perhaps it’s because they provided a strong link between places I had already visited and the history I discovered in the museum.

I had seen Carthage and Dougga. I stood among the ancient ruins and imagined what these places must once have been like. At the Bardo, I could see some of the artistry that once formed part of those ancient homes and communities.

 

Should you visit the Bardo National Museum? Absolutely! It is one of Africa’s largest museums and holds the finest collection of intact ancient Roman mosaics in the world. 

I went to the Bardo expecting to see impressive Roman mosaics, and I wasn’t disappointed. The Triumph of Neptune, Ulysses and the Sirens, and Panther-Dionysus and the Pirates stood out to me, but they are just a small sample of the renowned collection housed here. 

For anyone interested in ancient history, archaeology, or art, the Bardo deserves a place on your Tunis itinerary. 

And if, like me, you have already visited some of Tunisia’s archaeological sites, the museum offers a bonus. Seeing these mosaics in the museum can help you see those ancient sites in a completely different light. For me, that made my visit to the Bardo National Museum even more memorable.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2026.

 

Which of the three mosaics featured in my post – the Triumph of Neptune, Ulysses and the Sirens, or Dionysus and the Pirates – would you most like to see in person? I would love to hear your thoughts in the comments.

 

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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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6 BEST UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITES YOU NEED TO VISIT IN TUNISIA. Discover 6 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Tunisia, from Dougga and Carthage to Sidi Bou Said and El Jem. Explore my favourites and plan your trip.

 

© Just Me Travel 2018-2026. All rights reserved.

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STEP BACK IN TIME IN MÉRIDA: See Spain’s Most Impressive Roman Ruins

My Ultimate Photo Guided Walk of the Roman Ruins in Mérida, Spain   Wandering the streets of Mérida, Spain, is like stepping back in time to the height of the…

My Ultimate Photo Guided Walk of the Roman Ruins in Mérida, Spain

 

Wandering the streets of Mérida, Spain, is like stepping back in time to the height of the Roman Empire. Founded in 25 BC as Augusta Emerita, Mérida was one of the most important cities in Roman Hispania, and today it is home to some of the most extensive and best-preserved Roman ruins in Spain. Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the city is a treasure trove of ancient monuments, including a spectacular Roman theatre, a grand amphitheatre, the Temple of Diana, the Arch of Trajan, and one of the longest surviving Roman bridges in the world. 

This guide to walking around the Roman ruins of Mérida provides a self-guided itinerary allowing you to explore the city’s most iconic ancient sites on foot. Whether you’re a history buff, an architecture enthusiast, or a photographer, this Mérida walking tour offers an unforgettable journey through temples, arches, bridges, and archaeological treasures. 

Lace up your walking shoes, grab your camera, and discover why Mérida is one of the must-visit destinations in Spain for anyone fascinated by ancient history.

 

Why Visit the Roman Ruins of Mérida, Spain – A UNESCO World Heritage City

If you’re keen to experience the grandeur of ancient Rome without leaving Spain, Mérida is the place to visit. The city, known as Augusta Emerita, was founded by Emperor Augustus in 25 BC as the capital of the Roman province of Lusitania. Its strategic position on the banks of the Guadiana River made it a hub for trade, governance, and military activity in the Western Roman Empire.

Today, Mérida is the capital of the Extremadura region in western Spain, a vibrant modern city with around 60,000 residents. Yet, it retains the feel of an open-air museum because of its remarkable collection of Roman monuments, which earned the city UNESCO World Heritage status in 1993. Here, you can stand in the same amphitheatre where gladiators once fought, walk across a two-thousand-year-old bridge, and marvel at temples, arches, and mosaics that have survived centuries of change – all within the city centre.

Unlike many archaeological sites tucked away in remote locations, Mérida’s treasures are woven into the fabric of the modern city. You can easily explore them on foot, allowing you to immerse yourself in history at every turn – whether you’re wandering past the Temple of Diana, stopping at the Arch of Trajan, or enjoying the sweeping views from the Roman Theatre’s stone seats.

With its mix of ancient history, walkable streets, and easy access, Mérida provides travellers a rare opportunity to immerse themselves in the Roman world without leaving the Iberian Peninsula.

How to See the Roman Ruins of Mérida on a Self-Guided Walking Tour

One of the best things about visiting Mérida, Spain, is how compact and walkable the historic centre is. Most of the city’s Roman monuments are within a short stroll of each other, making it easy to explore at your own pace without needing a bus tour or guide.

A self-guided walking tour lets you set your own schedule, linger at your favourite spots, and take photos without being rushed. You’ll be able to follow the city’s ancient story as you move from one site to the next, with each stop revealing a new layer of its Roman past.

Begin your walk at the Roman Theatre and Amphitheatre, the city’s most famous landmarks. From there, you can follow a logical loop that takes in temples, arches, bridges, and archaeological sites before finishing at the National Museum of Roman Art (highly recommended).

Mérida’s Roman Ruins Walking Route Map. (Map data @2025 Google)

 

Many of Mérida’s Roman sites are included in a combined ticket available from the theatre’s entrance or other major monuments. This pass is an excellent value if you plan to see multiple attractions in one day. Some sites, such as the Roman Bridge, Trajan’s Arch, and the Temple of Diana, are free to visit at any time.

Spending four to six hours allows for a relaxed visit to the main Roman ruins, including time for photos, breaks, and lunch. However, I strongly recommend staying at least one night in Mérida. Several of the ruins – such as the Roman Theatre, the Roman Bridge, and the Temple of Diana – are illuminated at night, offering breathtaking views that warrant a second visit.

For something truly special, the International Classical Theatre Festival of Mérida takes place annually from June to August. During the festival, the Roman Theatre serves as the stage for a variety of theatrical productions, where performances are held every night, in the same place they were held more than two thousand years ago.

A play staged on an ancient Roman theatre.

I was fortunate to be in Mérida during the city’s Classical Theatre Festival and saw a night performance at the over 2000-year-old Roman Theatre.

 

What to See in Mérida – A Step-by-Step Walking Itinerary

Exploring Mérida’s UNESCO-listed Roman heritage is best done on foot, with each site just a short walk from the next. This self-guided walking route begins at the Roman Theatre, Mérida’s most iconic monument in the city. It winds for about three kilometres through plazas, streets, and riverside paths to Mérida’s most impressive Roman ruins without doubling back. Along the way, you’ll see ancient arches, weathered colonnades, magnificent mosaics, and dramatic ruins as you explore from site to site, showcasing the city’s rich Roman past.

Each monument shares its story, showing how Mérida once thrived as an imperial capital. This itinerary features all the must-see spots, making sure you don’t miss any marvels as you delve into the city’s rich mix of history and architecture.

Roman Theatre – Spain’s most iconic ancient landmark

The Roman Theatre is Mérida’s most visited monument. It is a true treasure that will transport you back to ancient Lusitania.

 

The Roman Theatre is Mérida’s most celebrated archeological landmark and one of the finest surviving theatres of the ancient world. Constructed around 16-15 BC, this remarkably well-preserved theatre could seat 6,000 spectators. In its day, it was the centre for drama, music, political speeches, and public gatherings, reflecting the cultural sophistication of Roman Augusta Emerita. It is still used for performances during Mérida’s Classical Theatre Festival.

The theatre’s most striking feature is its two-tiered stage backdrop, decorated with marble columns and statues of Roman gods and emperors. The seating area is carved into the hillside, providing excellent acoustics.

Roman Amphitheatre – gladiators and games

Mérida’s Roman Amphitheatre hosted gladiatorial fights and battles between men and beasts or between beasts themselves.

 

Next to the Roman Theatre is the Roman Amphitheatre, where gladiators once fought each other and wild animals for public entertainment. Built in 8 BC, with an oval shape typical of Roman amphitheatres, it could hold about 15,000 spectators.

The arena floor once featured a wooden platform covering an underground passage where fighters and animals waited their turn in the spotlight. Today, excavated sections of the arena reveal the central pit used in these spectacles. The stone seating tiers, though partly eroded, still rise in a semicircle, providing a sense of scale to the venue.

House of the Amphitheatre – Roman villas, mosaics, and gardens

This intricate mosaic floor in the House of the Amphitheatre is thought to be in the house’s dining room.

 

The House of the Amphitheatre is one of Mérida’s most fascinating archaeological sites, offering an intimate glimpse into the lives of wealthy Romans nearly 2,000 years ago. Situated just outside the Roman Amphitheatre, this extensive residential complex spans from the end of the 3rd century BC to the beginning of the 5th century AD, showcasing the architectural sophistication of the period.

Excavations have uncovered stunning mosaic floors, detailed wall paintings, and rooms arranged around a central colonnaded courtyard. Evidence of an underfloor heating system in the private baths highlights the owner’s high social status. Archaeologists believe it was home to an influential family, possibly linked to the city’s entertainment or political elite.

An archaeological excavation of a Roman house.

In the House of the Amphitheatre, rooms are arranged around a central colonnaded courtyard.

 

Portico of the Forum – the Roman Forum’s grand entrance

The Portico of the Forum with its distinctive Corinthian columns.

 

Once the entrance to the Roman Forum, the Portico of the Forum serves as a reminder of Mérida’s role as the administrative hub of the Roman province of Lusitania. Constructed in the 1st century AD, this colonnaded portico once stood in front of the forum’s main square, flanked by statues of gods, emperors, and dignitaries. Although only part of the portico remains, its Corinthian columns and fragments of decorative reliefs still reflect the grandeur of Roman civic architecture.

Temple of Diana – a must-see Roman monument in the city centre

The Temple of Diana stands in the heart of Mérida’s historic centre.

 

Dating back to the 1st century AD and once dominating the city’s forum, the Temple of Diana is one of the best-preserved Corinthian temples in the Iberian Peninsula. Despite its name, it wasn’t dedicated to the goddess Diana but served as the imperial cult’s temple, honouring the emperor as a god.

In the 16th century, a palace was incorporated into the temple, leaving the Corinthian columns in their original rectangular formation.

Arch of Trajan – gateway to the ancient city

A stone arch over a street.

The Arch of Trajan, taken at night on my walk back to my hotel.

 

Standing at a height of 15 metres, Trajan’s Arch was neither a triumphal arch nor dedicated to the emperor Trajan. It was the monumental gateway to the sacred district that surrounded the Imperial cult temple (the Temple of Diana). Built in the late 1st or early 2nd century AD, it served as a grand entrance to the forum.

Now devoid of its marble cladding, its massive granite blocks still convey a sense of imperial grandeur.

Archaeological Zone of Morerías – layers of history by the river

An archaeological excavation of a Roman house.

A Roman house with marble floors in the Archaeological Zone of Morerías along Mérida’s Guadiana River.

 

The Archaeological Zone of Morerías lies beneath an apartment building along the Guadiana River. It provides a unique insight into Mérida’s layered history. Here, Roman streets, houses, and workshops coexist with later Visigothic and Moorish structures. The site spans several centuries of occupation, illustrating the city’s evolution after the fall of the Roman Empire. The visible urban layout, with its well-preserved stonework and walls, makes it easy to imagine daily life in this multi-era riverside district.

Elevated walkways allow you to view the site’s complexity from a bird’s-eye perspective.

An ancient Roman stone street.

A Roman street in the Archaeological Zone of Morerías.

 

Roman Bridge over the Guadiana River – the longest surviving Roman bridge

The view of Mérida’s ancient Roman Bridge from the Alcazaba best captures its length as it spans the Guadiana River.

 

Mérida’s Roman Bridge over the Guadiana River was built in the 1st century BC. At a length of 792 metres and with 60 arches, it is one of Spain’s longest bridges and the longest surviving Roman bridge in the world. It was a vital crossing of the Guadiana River and a strategic artery for Roman trade and military movement.

Having carried road traffic for most of its life, it was converted into a pedestrian-only bridge in 1991.

Alcazaba of Mérida – Moorish fortress built on Roman foundations

Although the Alcazaba of Mérida looks entirely Moorish, much of its core fabric is Roman in origin, as Roman materials were reused when the Muslims built the fortress in 835 AD. As you explore the Alcazaba, keep an eye out for these Roman features:

  • Roman walls and foundations,
  • Roman road,
  • Roman water cistern, and
  • Roman stones in the fortress walls.

Climb its walls for panoramic views of the Guadiana River and the Roman Bridge.

National Museum of Roman Art in Mérida – Mosaics, Sculptures, and Artefacts

No visit to Roman Mérida is complete without stepping inside the National Museum of Roman Art, an archaeological museum conveniently located next to the Roman Theatre and Amphitheatre complex. Designed by Spanish architect Rafael Moneo and inaugurated in 1986, the museum is an architectural masterpiece in its own right – its soaring brick arches deliberately echo the grandeur of Roman design while offering a modern, light-filled space.

Spread over three floors, inside you’ll find one of the world’s most extensive collections of Roman mosaics, alongside sculptures, tombstones, ceramics, paintings, coins, glassware, and everyday objects excavated from Mérida’s Roman sites.

It is at the National Museum of Roman Art where Mérida’s story comes full circle—linking the ruins you’ve just wandered through with the people who once called them home.

Paintings in the National Museum of Roman Art that decorated the balustrade of the podium of Mérida’s Roman amphitheatre.

 

How to Get to Mérida

Mérida’s central location in Spain’s Extremadura region makes it easily accessible by train, bus, or car from Madrid or Seville.

To travel from Madrid to Mérida, take a Renfe train (approximately four hours) or a bus with Avanza Grupo (around five hours), both of which offer direct services.

To travel from Seville to Mérida, take a Renfe train (approximately three and a half hours) or a bus with ALSA (approximately two to three hours).

Driving gives you the most flexibility and allows you to explore Extremadura’s smaller towns and countryside. The road distance from Madrid to Mérida is 341 kilometres, while the distance from Seville to Mérida is 192 kilometres.

 

Walking through Mérida’s Roman ruins is like stepping back in time. From the grandeur of the theatre and amphitheatre to the quiet beauty of mosaics at the House of the Amphitheatre, every site uncovers a different chapter of life in one of the Roman Empire’s most significant provincial capitals. Few places in the world offer such a well-preserved collection of Roman monuments in a compact, walkable city.

Whether you’re a history enthusiast, photographer, or curious traveller, Mérida offers a memorable journey through layers of history that still shape the city today. Its UNESCO World Heritage status is well deserved – it’s a living museum where Roman roads, arches, bridges, and temples still shape the urban landscape.

So, if you’re planning a trip through Extremadura or southern Spain, make sure to set aside at least one day, preferably two, to explore Mérida on foot.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025.

 

Which Roman site in Mérida would you photograph first? Let me know in the comments!

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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An image with two photos: a Roman theatre and a Roman arch over a street.

An image with two photos: an ancient Roman bridge and an illuminated Roman temple.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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© Just Me Travel 2018-2025. All rights reserved.

 

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