Ancient Churches Carved from Rock, Dramatic Highland Landscapes and Centuries of Living History. This Photo-Rich Travel Guide Captures Northern Ethiopia Through My Lens – One of Africa’s Most Captivating Regions….
Ancient Churches Carved from Rock, Dramatic Highland Landscapes and Centuries of Living History. This Photo-Rich Travel Guide Captures Northern Ethiopia Through My Lens – One of Africa’s Most Captivating Regions.
This photo travel guide traces my journey through Northern Ethiopia, including the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela and Tigray, the castles of Gondar, Lake Tana, the ruins of Axum, and the Simien Mountains, capturing moments of history, culture, and landscape through the lens. Each image reflects a region shaped by time, belief, and place – one of the world’s oldest and most compelling travel experiences.
Ethiopia, officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia, is a landlocked country in the Horn of Africa, bordered by six countries. It is a spiritually and historically rich country known for its ancient civilisations, strong cultural identity, and dramatic landscapes. Often called the cradle of humankind, it is home to important archaeological discoveries and has preserved its traditions, making it one of the few African nations never formally colonised.
Ethiopia is known for its welcoming people, distinctive cuisine, ancient monasteries, and for being the birthplace of coffee.
Northern Ethiopia captures the essence of the country’s ancient soul. As the heartland of Ethiopia’s earliest civilisations, the north is where history, faith, and dramatic landscapes come together most powerfully. Often described as the cradle of Ethiopian civilisation, this region is home to some of Africa’s most important archaeological, religious, and cultural sites – many of which are UNESCO World Heritage-listed.
My two weeks exploring Northern Ethiopia were a journey through one of Africa’s most extraordinary and least understood regions. While tourists flock to East Africa’s savannahs or Egypt’s pyramids, Ethiopia’s historical heartland remains quietly magnificent, with rock-hewn churches carved into mountain cliffs, ancient obelisks marking the ruins of mighty empires, and castles that seem transplanted from medieval Europe to the African highlands.
Northern Ethiopia is where human civilisation gave birth to Lucy, our 3.2-million-year-old ancestor. It’s where one of the world’s oldest Christian traditions has thrived uninterrupted for nearly 2,000 years, developing its own distinctive expression through art, architecture, and ritual. It’s where landscapes shift from the jagged peaks of the Simien Mountains to the vast expanse of Lake Tana, from the thundering Blue Nile Falls to the quiet pride of ancient Axum.
This was no easy journey, as reaching some of Tigray’s cliff churches required scrambling up rock faces, and the roads between destinations tested both stomachs and suspension systems. But it was precisely this remoteness, this sense of stepping off the well-worn tourist trail, that made every moment feel like a discovery. This is the story of that journey, from the rock-hewn wonders of Lalibela to the bustling streets of Addis Ababa, through a land where history isn’t preserved behind museum glass but lives and breathes in daily practice.
The Destinations: A Journey Through the North
Lalibela: Ethiopia’s Sacred City Carved from Rock
Lalibela is situated high in the Lasta Mountains at an elevation of 2,600 metres, surrounded by picturesque valleys.
Lalibela is enclosed by the towering Lasta Mountains range, the third-highest range in Ethiopia.
Famous for its incredible 11 monolithic churches, carved downward into solid volcanic rock in the 12th and 13th centuries by King Lalibela, with roofs at ground level, Lalibela is unlike anywhere else in the world.
A complex system of narrow tunnels and passageways connects the churches. It was like a rabbit warren, creating a sense of mystical adventure as I moved from one church to another. At times, I felt like I was playing Indiana Jones as I traversed passageways that spanned sheer drops.
Each church has its own resident monk, and shoes must be removed before entering. In the end, I stopped tying my shoelaces.
King Lalibela “built” the churches to create a “New Jerusalem” for Christian pilgrims after Muslim leader Saladin captured Jerusalem, making access to the Holy Land difficult, and to rival Axum, home to the Ark of the Covenant. It is said that the king built the churches with roofs at ground level to hide them from his enemies.
Set apart from the rest of Lalibela’s churches, the iconic Biete Giyorgis (Church of Saint George), named after Ethiopia’s patron saint, is the most famous of Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches. Carved from a single block of volcanic rock in the shape of a Greek cross, to a depth of over 12 metres, this subterranean church is accessible via tunnels.
Biete Giyorgis (St George’s Church) has become an icon of Ethiopia.
Biete Giyorgis represents the spiritual heart of Ethiopia.
There are two versions of Biete Giyorgis’ history: one says it was built by King Lalibela’s widow after his death (about 1220). The other claim is that King Lalibela promised to build a church to Saint George, who was upset that there was no church dedicated to him.
Lalibela is not just a historical site but a living testament to Ethiopian faith, where worship has continued as it has for centuries, not staged for visitors. It is a vital pilgrimage centre for the Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church and home to more than 1,000 priests.
Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches are often called the Eighth Wonder of the World for their unique architecture and are also a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The journey north from Lalibela to Tigray brings a striking change in landscape. From Lalibela’s rugged Ethiopian Highlands, with volcanic hills and deep valleys, to Tigray’s more dramatic landscape, characterised by towering sandstone ridges, cliffs, and plateaus, interspersed with farming communities.
The Gheralta Mountain range in Ethiopia’s Tigray region is home to some of the country’s oldest churches.
The Rock-Hewn Churches of Tigray: Sacred Sanctuaries in the Sky
The most iconic feature of Tigray’s Gheralta Mountains is the ancient rock-hewn churches carved by monks centuries ago directly into cliff faces, often requiring challenging climbs to reach but creating unique architectural marvels.
Tigray has 120 rock-hewn churches, dating from the 4th to the 6th century and still in use today. Unlike Lalibela’s churches, Tigray’s are carved directly into the cliff walls of the Amba Mountains – flat-topped mountains with almost vertical sides – or perched atop sheer-sided plateaus, making them difficult to access.
The Tigray churches are semi-monolithic. That is, they are partially excavated from a rock face or cliff and also feature constructed elements, such as masoned walls, or carved from caves.
Abreha We Atsbeha Church, which was relatively easy to reach, is widely regarded by experts as the finest church in Tigray. It was larger than any I saw in Lalibela, and its medieval frescoes depicting biblical scenes are remarkably well preserved.
Abreha We Atsbeha Church, viewed from the base of the hill.
Well-preserved murals inside the ancient rock-hewn Abreha We Atsbeha Church.
The second Tigray church I visited was Wukro Chirkos Church, which was also easily accessible. It is a semi-monolithic cruciform-shaped church that has been in continuous use for over 1,600 years.
Wukro Chirkos Church is a historic rock-hewn church, dating back to the 4th century.
Wukro Chirkos Church’s murals of saints were blackened by fire centuries ago.
There was one more church on the itinerary to visit, but there was no way I was going to climb to churches that demanded hugging rock faces!
The drive from Tigray’s sky-high churches to Axum, Ethiopia’s ancient capital, was a journey through spectacular scenery at every turn.
I never tired of seeing and photographing northern Ethiopia’s ever-changing landscape.
Axum: Birthplace of Ancient Civilisation
Axum is where Ethiopian civilisation began and is one of Ethiopia’s most important historical sites. It was the powerful capital of the ancient Axumite Kingdom, which, between the 1st and 8th centuries CE, rivalled Rome and Persia as a significant trading empire.
Today, Axum is home to extraordinary archaeological treasures and sacred sites, including the stelae field, the palace ruins associated with the Queen of Sheba, and the Church of St. Mary of Zion, which is believed to house the Ark of the Covenant.
Axum’s most recognisable landmarks are its towering granite stelae in the Northern Stelae Field. These ancient obelisks, carved from a single piece of stone and some over 20 metres tall, mark the tombs of kings and nobles. The engraved stelae mark the graves of the kings of the Axumite dynasty, while the unengraved stelae mark the graves of nobles.
Not all stelae have stood the test of time. The collapse of one king’s stela enabled exploration of the tomb’s interior, a labyrinth of tunnels and rooms.
The Northern Stelae Field, Axum – the graveyard markers of Axumite kings and nobles.
Also located in the Northern Stelae Field is the Edna Iyesus Church (Church of St Jesus), an ancient, historically significant church known for its stunning, vibrant religious murals.
Among the most notable paintings are those depicting Mary and Child, saints and apostles, and St George slaying the dragon.
The stories and characters of the Bible come alive on the walls of Edna Iyesus through its vivid frescos.
Axum’s most sacred site is the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion, which, according to Ethiopian Orthodox tradition, houses the original Ark of the Covenant in the Chapel of the Tablet next to the church. According to legend, the Ark was smuggled from Israel to Ethiopia by Menelik I, the son of Solomon and the Queen of Sheba – a belief rooted in Ethiopia’s national psyche but regarded by historians as a powerful national myth.
No one is allowed to see the Ark of the Covenant except a single, virgin monk appointed to guard it, who never leaves the Chapel grounds and only appoints his successor before his death.
External view of the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion.
Nearby is the Bath of the Queen of Sheba – a massive, ancient water reservoir carved from solid rock, with stone steps leading down to it, where she reportedly bathed. Despite the legend linking it to the Queen of Sheba and Ethiopian tradition that she originated from Axum, it was not a personal bathing pool but a vital water source for the city. Today, it’s a significant religious purification site, especially during Timkat (Epiphany).
The Queen of Sheba’s Bath, Axum.
In the western part of Axum are the ruins of the Palace of the Queen of Sheba, known locally as Dungur. The archaeological site comprises 50 rooms, a throne room with steps, a kitchen with a brick oven, and a drainage system. Although archaeologists debate whether it was truly the Queen of Sheba’s palace or a nobleman’s mansion from the same era, the Dungur site is the most widely recognised archaeological location associated with her palace.
The ruins of the Queen of Sheba’s Palace on the western outskirts of Axum.
The Simien Mountains: The Roof of Africa
It was a long drive from Axum to the Simien Mountains. The 264 kilometres took seven hours, with a stop for a picnic lunch on the side of the road, shared with cows, and the obligatory coffee stop.
Have I mentioned that Ethiopia has the best coffee in the world? Ethiopia is the birthplace of coffee, where brewing and drinking it are world-renowned rituals steeped in tradition and social significance. I was in coffee heaven, and whenever I could, I took part in the coffee ceremony.
But back to the long drive, which kept revealing the most spectacular scenery as we wound our way up through the Simien Mountains National Park – a UNESCO World Heritage Site of jagged peaks, massive escarpments and deep valleys. Sometimes called the ‘Roof of Africa’, it is home to Ethiopia’s highest peak, which rises to 4550 metres (14,930 feet). It doesn’t take much imagination to feel as if you are standing on top of the world.
Gallery – The breathtaking Simien Mountains:
I stayed two nights at Simien Lodge. Read my post about its unique heating system.
After many days of long-distance driving, it was a welcome relief to stretch my legs with walks in the national park.
Gondar: The Camelot of Africa
I never expected to see royal castles in Ethiopia. But Gondar has six castles in its Royal Enclosure (Fasil Ghebbi), which served as the royal residence for Ethiopia’s rulers from the 1640s to 1864 and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
A 900-metre wall encloses the Royal Enclosure’s seven hectares and contains churches, palaces, monasteries, and even a lion’s cage. The best-preserved is King Fasilidas’ castle, a three-storey fortress with battlements and towers, known locally as the Egg Castle for its egg-shaped roof.
The Palace of Empress Mentewab – one of the most powerful women in Ethiopian history.
As I wandered through these medieval ruins in the Royal Enclosure, it was easy to see why Gondar is known as the ‘Camelot of Africa’.
Nearby, the stunning Debre Berhan Selassie Church (Trinity and Mountain of Light Church) is the most famous place of worship in Gondar. Built in the 17th century, the church is renowned for its remarkable murals that cover the interior walls and ceiling. The walls depict biblical events, including the lives of Christ, Mary, saints, and martyrs, while the ceiling is covered with 135 painted faces of winged cherubic angels peering down at visitors. For reasons I never understood, none of the angels in any of the churches I visited had bodies; they had only faces and wings.
On the outskirts of Gondar is King Fasilidas’ Bath – a large rectangular pool with a three-storey pavilion within it, surrounded by stone walls through which the roots of ancient trees grow. The pool was empty when I visited, but it is filled once a year for Timkat (Epiphany) celebrations, when hundreds of pilgrims jump in to re-enact Christ’s baptism.
King Fasilidas’ Bath, Gondar.
Stopping for the mandatory coffee on the way to Bahir Dar, I couldn’t resist capturing the local street scene.
Locals are going about their daily business.
Bahir Dar and Lake Tana: The Source of Life
Bahir Dar is a palm-lined, Mediterranean-style city on the shores of Lake Tana, Ethiopia’s largest lake and the source of the Blue Nile.
The beautiful setting of Desset Restaurant on the shores of Lake Tana, Bahir Dar.
The city is the gateway to Lake Tana’s island monasteries. The lake comprises 37 islands, around 27 of which have monasteries and churches and are accessible only by water.
Boating across Lake Tana, I was thrilled to see hippos and fascinated by the traditional tankwa reed boats used by locals to navigate the lake. These boats looked very sinkable!
A local paddles a traditional tank reed boat on Lake Tana.
Azuwa Maryam Monastery is one of the more accessible monasteries on Lake Tana, just a short boat ride from Bahir Dar across the lake. Its round church has a thatched roof and is famous for its stunning, occasionally gruesome, vividly coloured interior wall paintings depicting biblical stories and saints in the traditional Ethiopian style. Some paintings are applied directly to the walls, while others are painted on cloth and glued to the walls. I was advised by the priest who acted as a guide that the paintings are retouched every 300 years.
The remarkable wall paintings inside Azuwa Maryam Monastery on Lake Tana, Bahir Dar.
Motoring past other island monasteries on Lake Tana, access to many is forbidden because, according to the boat driver, “women are a temptation”.
Blue Nile Falls: Ethiopia’s Impressive Waterfall
About 30 kilometres from Bahir Dar’s peaceful lakeside lies a place where the tranquillity of Lake Tana gives way to the power of Blue Nile Falls, locally known as Tis Issat, or “the water that smokes” – one of Ethiopia’s most dramatic natural sights.
The mighty Blue Nile Falls.
Read my post on Blue Nile Falls to learn about my visit to this breathtaking waterfall, why locals call it Tis Issat, and to see more photos that will inspire you to add these falls to your Ethiopian bucket list.
Addis Ababa: Ethiopia’s Dynamic Capital
Addis Ababa is located in the foothills of the Entoto Mountains, at an elevation of 2,400 metres, making it the third-highest capital city in the world.
I had begun my journey around northern Ethiopia in Addis Ababa, but didn’t have the chance to explore the city until my return at the end of my trip. Even then, I had only a day and a night to see what the city had to offer.
My visit to Holy Trinity Cathedral included a tour of the massive tombs of Emperor Haile Selassie and his wife, Empress Menen Asfaw. Haile Selassie was the last Emperor of Ethiopia, ruling from 1030 to 1974. Unusually, walking through the cathedral’s gardens meant dodging numerous tortoises roaming free.
The tombs of Emperor Haile Selassie and his wife
My highlight of Addis Ababa was the three hours I spent at the Ethnological Museum. This delightful, well-organised museum, located within Addis Ababa University, is dedicated to preserving, studying, and presenting Ethiopia’s rich cultural heritage. Exhibits cover the lifecycles, cultures, and artifacts of Ethiopia’s 80 ethnic groups, including musical instruments, clothing, tools, jewellery, religious manuscripts, ceremonial items, paintings, and much more.
Travelling through Northern Ethiopia is not just a journey across landscapes but a passage through time and tradition. From the mystical rock-hewn churches of Lalibela and Tigray, where faith is carved into stone and lived each day, to the ancient stelae and legends of Axum, the region’s history is as tangible as its dramatic scenery. The castles of Gondar, the breathtaking heights of the Simien Mountains, and the tranquil waters of Lake Tana each tell their own stories – of empires, spirituality, and the enduring resilience of the Ethiopian people.
What makes Northern Ethiopia truly unforgettable is the way history, culture, and daily life are inseparable. Here, the past is not locked away in museums but is part of the present, seen in rituals of worship, vibrant art, and the warmth of local hospitality. The challenges of travel – rugged roads, steep climbs, and, at times, a limited tourism infrastructure – are far outweighed by the rewards: moments of awe, connection, and discovery that linger long after the journey ends, and the best coffee in the world.
Whether you’re drawn by the call of adventure, the allure of ancient mysteries, or the simple pleasure of sharing coffee with new friends, Northern Ethiopia offers an experience as enriching as it is unique. May this photo travel guide inspire you to explore, ask questions, and embrace the wonders that await in this extraordinary corner of Africa.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
© Just Me Travel 2018-2026. All rights reserved.
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