This Tiny Island in Senegal Tells a Story the World Must Never Forget I spent two fabulous weeks in Senegal, West Africa, experiencing as much as possible on a…
This Tiny Island in Senegal Tells a Story the World Must Never Forget
I spent two fabulous weeks in Senegal, West Africa, experiencing as much as possible on a private tour with my guide, Serigne, and driver, Pap, based on an itinerary I developed in consultation with Native Eye Travel. It was a memorable trip with many highlights, including museums in Dakar, Lac Rose (Pink Lake), Fadiouth Island (built on clamshells), Bandia Wildlife Reserve, and more. However, my day trip to Gorée Island was the most poignant.
Just a short ferry ride from Dakar, Gorée Island presents a charming exterior with its pastel facades and narrow alleys while holding a deep history of centuries of pain, resistance, and remembrance. It offers an experience that is both enchanting and emotional.
As I walked through cells once used to imprison enslaved people on Gorée Island and stood before the Door of No Return, I reflected on the lives forever changed by the transatlantic slave trade. This post shares what I discovered on Gorée Island – what to see, how to get there, and, most importantly, why this tiny island left such a lasting impression.
About Gorée Island
Gorée Island lies three kilometres off the coast of Senegal, directly across from Dakar. While it is a small island – approximately 900 metres long and 350 metres wide – its historical significance far outweighs its size.
Discovered by the Portuguese in the 15th century, the island was successively ruled by the Portuguese, Dutch, English, and French from the 15th to the 19th century, using Gorée Island as a strategic trading post.
From 1536 to 1848 (when the French abolished slavery), Gorée Island was active in the transatlantic slave trade, particularly under French control. The island served as a major holding and embarkation centre for enslaved Africans who were forcibly taken from West Africa and kept in cramped, dark cells while awaiting transport across the Atlantic to the Americas.
Gorée Island functioned as both a residential and commercial centre for European traders and a place of imprisonment for captured Africans. The island witnessed unimaginable human suffering, with many enslaved people dying before even setting foot on a ship.
While Gorée Island may not have experienced the highest volume of slave departures, its preserved structures and historical exhibits offer a tangible and solemn connection to this dark chapter of human history. The island has become a pilgrimage site, especially for Africans and African Americans seeking to reconnect with their roots.
In 1978, Gorée Island was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of its historical significance in the slave trade and its well-preserved colonial architecture.
How to Get to Gorée Island
Gorée Island is accessible only by boat. The easiest and cheapest way to get there is to take the direct Gorée Ferry from Dakar’s passenger terminal. Ferries depart every two hours, daily, from 7 am to midnight. Tickets are available at the terminal and cost about 5,000 CFA (approximately USD9) for a return trip. A passport is required to purchase a ticket and to board the ferry – a copy is not accepted.
The ferry ride takes 25-30 minutes. Arrive early to grab a seat on the upper deck for scenic views of Dakar and the approach to Gorée Island.
Approaching Gorée Island, as viewed from the ferry.
Things to Do and See on Gorée Island
Gorée Island offers a unique blend of historical significance and natural beauty. Visit the House of Slaves, a poignant reminder of the island’s transatlantic slave trade, and stroll through the colourful, narrow streets. Admire the colonial architecture, explore the fortifications, and soak up the charming island atmosphere.
House of Slaves (Maison des Esclaves):
The House of Slaves with a view of the Door of No Return. Enslaved Africans were imprisoned in cells on the ground floor while the upper floor was the residence of the slave trader.
The House of Slaves was a slave-holding warehouse and is the island’s most sombre and emotionally powerful site. Built in 1776, this pink-hued building once served as one of the 28 prisons for enslaved Africans on Gorée Island before they were forced aboard ships bound for the Americas. It is now a museum and memorial to the victims of the transatlantic slave trade on Gorée Island – to those who never returned!
Native Eye Travel arranged a private tour of the House of Slaves for me with the Head Curator, and the museum was closed for the duration of my tour.
Inside, narrow corridors led to dark, airless holding cells where men, women, and children were imprisoned separately. Some of these spaces were no larger than a closet, and the living conditions of the enslaved people were atrocious. Families were separated, and children were held away from their mothers. They spent days chained and shackled to the floor, unable to move, and only set free once a day to eat and relieve themselves. Young girls, confined separately from the other women, were particularly vulnerable to sexual exploitation.
The enslaved females’ cell in the House of Slaves.
The cell for enslaved young girls in the House of Slaves.
However, the most haunting feature of the House of Slaves was the Door of No Return. This small seaside doorway marked the last point of contact for enslaved individuals with their homeland. Standing in its shadow, I felt the weight of history pressing down on me. Its symbolic and emotional significance was immense. I found myself motionless, initially unable to photograph what I saw, as I needed to acknowledge the pain that the Door of No Return symbolised.
The House of Slaves: The Door of No Return. Through this door, enslaved men, women, and children stepped from their homeland onto a waiting ship that would transport them to the Americas.
I truly appreciated my private tour, as having other people moving in and out of the cells and around the Door of No Return would have diminished my emotional experience. The House of Slaves was more than a museum; it was a portal to the collective trauma of a people torn from their roots and a powerful reminder of history.
The Statue of Liberation of Slaves is a powerful statue depicting a man and woman embracing as their chains are released. It is located near the House of Slaves. (Sculptors: Mrs Jean and Christian Moisa)
A walking tour of the island:
Beyond the House of Slaves, the island beckons for quiet exploration. Serigne led me through leafy alleyways, past colourful colonial architecture adorned with wrought-iron balconies and crumbling walls held together by bougainvillea.
Gorée Island’s charm is revealed as you wander down its many pretty alleyways.
Colourful colonial architecture is widely featured on Gorée Island.
We walked past open-air art galleries on our way to the highest point of Gorée Island, called the ‘castle’ even though no castle exists. However, two large cannons installed by the French during the Second World War dominate the hill.
These two French cannons were strategically positioned on Gorée Island’s highest point.
Lastly, Serigne took me to the Historical Museum of Senegal in Gorée, located in the former Fort d’Estrées, which the French built between 1852 and 1856. The museum presents the general history of Senegal and the more specific history of Gorée Island. Its layout follows a circular route divided into 13 rooms, covering periods from the Paleolithic Age to the slave trade and independence.
The former Fort d’Estrées, which now houses the Historical Museum.
Having previously visited two excellent museums in Dakar, I found the Gorée Historical Museum relatively uninteresting and neglected. Although all the information about the museum’s exhibits was written in French, this was not an issue, as Serigne was happy to translate for me, as he had done in the museums we visited in Dakar.
Gorée Island was full of contrasts – beauty, serenity, sadness, and suffering.
Where to eat:
Serigne and I lunched on the seafront at the Hostellerie du Chevalier de Boufflers. Shaded by large umbrellas, I ate lunch while looking out over the quiet harbour. My meal consisted of chicken with onion sauce and rice – a delicious traditional Senegalese dish.
Lunch at Hostellerie du Chevalier de Boufflers offers uninterrupted views of Gorée Island’s harbour and serves a great traditional Senegalese chicken dish with onion sauce and rice.
Tips for Visiting
French is the official language of Senegal, but Wolof is the most widely spoken. English is not commonly spoken, and I was hard-pressed to get by in Senegal with my schoolgirl French. Luckily, Serigne spoke excellent English and was happy to translate whenever needed. I found using Google Translate to be an exasperating experience, especially when translating menus with my camera. I was never sure what I was ordering!
A day trip to Gorée Island is all you need. I spent five hours on the island and saw everything there was to see, except for the Museum of the Sea and the Women’s Museum.
Gorée Island is car-free and has cobblestone streets. It may be tiny, but you will do a lot of walking, so comfortable shoes are essential.
Remember, you need a valid passport to travel to Gorée Island from Dakar. You cannot purchase a ferry ticket without one.
The House of Slaves is open Tuesday through Sunday and closed on Mondays. Its hours are 10.30 am to 12.00 pm and 3.00 pm to 6.00 pm.
The Historical Museum of Senegal in Gorée is open Tuesday through Sunday and closed on Mondays. Its hours are from 10.30 am to 4.30 pm.
Do you truly want to understand the history of Gorée Island, rather than merely wandering the streets? I recommend arranging a guided tour from Dakar with a reputable travel agency, such as Viator or Get Your Guide (both of which I have successfully used in the past). Alternatively, you can arrive on Gorée Island and choose one of the guides who meet the ferry.
Reflecting on my Experience
Visiting Gorée Island was not just another travel experience but a journey through history and humanity. It reminded me of the importance of confronting the past, no matter how painful, and honouring those whose lives were shaped by it.
Walking through the corridors that were once filled with unimaginable suffering was a sobering experience. But there was also hope in the quiet determination to remember and never forget.
Last view of the Door of No Return (in the red building) as I leave Gorée Island on the ferry for Dakar.
A visit to Gorée Island is more than just a day trip; it’s a powerful encounter with history. It invites you to slow down, listen, and reflect. While the island’s beauty is undeniable, the emotional weight of its past lingers long after the ferry ride back to Dakar.
Gorée Island reminds us of humanity’s capacity for cruelty but also of its resilience and the importance of remembering. If travelling through Senegal, set aside a day for Gorée Island. It’s not just about sightseeing – it’s about bearing witness. Gorée Island doesn’t just tell a story – it asks you to carry it with you.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
Beautiful Melk Abbey Review – A River Cruise Tour You Should Not Miss. Sailing down the Danube River through Austria’s Wachau Valley, a sight came into view that seemed…
Beautiful Melk Abbey Review – A River Cruise Tour You Should Not Miss.
Sailing down the Danube River through Austria’s Wachau Valley, a sight came into view that seemed straight out of a storybook – Melk Abbey, perched high on a rocky outcrop overlooking the water. With its golden-yellow Baroque façade gleaming in the sunlight, this magnificent Benedictine monastery promised grandeur, history, and breathtaking views.
As part of a river cruise through central Europe, visiting Melk Abbey was a cultural and architectural highlight I won’t forget. From ornate ceilings and staircases to a library that feels like something out of a fantasy novel, the abbey offered a fascinating glimpse into Austria’s monastic past and Baroque artistry. Whether you’re a history lover, an architecture enthusiast, or someone seeking a unique stop along the Danube, Melk Abbey provides a memorable experience.
In this post, I share what makes Melk Abbey a standout destination, how I experienced it, and why it deserves a place on your Austrian travel itinerary.
About Melk Abbey
Melk Abbey is a magnificent Benedictine monastery in Lower Austria and a masterpiece of Baroque architecture. It is Austria’s largest Baroque structure and one of Europe’s biggest and most beautiful.
The abbey is perched high on a cliff overlooking the Old Town of Melk and the Danube River. It lies at the confluence of the Danube and Melk rivers within the Wachau UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The abbey you see today was built between 1702 and 1736. But Melk Abbey has more than 930 years of history, told in the abbey’s museum. Originally a palace, Melk Abbey was gifted to the Benedictine monks in 1089 and has remained an active abbey ever since. Today, Melk Abbey has 22 monks, a co-educational secondary school with 900 pupils, an extremely well-presented, minimalist museum, and a magnificent church.
My first glimpse of Melk Abbey from the cruise ship on the Danube River was absolutely breathtaking. From every angle, it was impressive – a fairytale vision brought to life. With its ochre-coloured façade and imposing Baroque architecture, Melk Abbey is among the most beautiful buildings. You might have gathered by now that I was truly awestruck by it, and the approach to the abbey’s entrance and guided tour only cemented my delight.
The approach to Melk Abbey’s entrance is through a small garden.
Touring Melk Abbey: Highlights and Impressions
The 50-minute guided tour of Melk Abbey (arranged by Viking Cruises) includes the museum rooms, the Marble Hall, the Balcony, and the library. It began with a meet and greet in the expansive outer courtyard, the Gatekeeper’s Courtyard. In this courtyard, there is an oak wood statue of Saint Coloman. The sculpture, crafted by Franz Gundacker using only a chainsaw, is 150 years old, and the oak was sourced from the abbey’s forests.
Saint Coloman was Austria’s first patron saint until 1663. He remains the patron saint of Melk Abbey and the town of Melk and is buried in the abbey church.
From the Gatekeeper’s Courtyard, we passed through the Benedict Hall and into the Prelate’s Courtyard.
The 150-year-old wooden sculpture of Saint Coloman in the Gatekeeper’s Courtyard, patron saint of Melk Abbey.
The beautiful Baroque entrance to Melk Abbey’s Prelate’s Courtyard, accessed from the Gatekeeper’s Courtyard.
The Prelate’s Courtyard features four vivid, contemporary frescoes, replacing the Baroque frescoes that could not be restored. These frescoes represent the four cardinal virtues: Prudence, Temperance, Justice, and Fortitude. The modernist style of the frescoes caused some controversy as people tried to adjust to the move away from the original and expected Baroque style.
Melk Abbey’s modern fresco of the cardinal virtue of Prudence.
Melk Abbey’s modern fresco of the cardinal virtue of Temperance.
Melk Abbey’s modern fresco of the cardinal virtue of Justice.
Melk Abbey’s modern fresco of the cardinal virtue of Fortitude.
Leaving the Prelate’s Courtyard through a narrow passageway, the grand Imperial Staircase leads to the Imperial Wing, the abbey’s museum and library. Known for its impressive scale and Baroque design, it is a significant feature of the abbey’s architecture.
The abbey museum and imperial rooms
The Imperial Wing was originally designed for the imperial court. It consists of the Imperial Corridor and the Imperial Rooms, which now house the Melk Abbey Museum.
The Imperial Corridor, measuring 196 metres in length, is impressive. Portraits of Austria’s rulers adorn its walls – from the first Babenberg Emperor, Leopold I, to the last Habsburg Emperor, Karl I. There are more portraits of the Habsburgs since they ruled longer.
The Melk Abbey Museum, located in the imperial rooms to the left of the Imperial Staircase, is exceptionally well-organised and informative and adopts a minimalist approach. You gain a solid overview of the abbey’s history, both past and present, as well as its cultural, political, and economic functions, without feeling overwhelmed or as though there is too much to absorb, ultimately leaving you none the wiser. There is no information overload here.
The museum consists of 11 small rooms. Its overriding theme is “The Path from Yesterday to Today: Melk Abbey in its Past and Present,” and each room features a specific theme. What follows are snippets of interesting information taken from the guide’s explanations throughout the museum tour and my impressions.
Room 3 (“The Ups and Downs of History”) features a wavy floor, symbolising life’s ups and downs. The flooring is not the original Baroque, as Napoleon was an unfortunate guest who burned documents on it.
Rooms 5 and 6 pay tribute to Melk Abbey’s contribution to the Baroque period. The Baroque period was a historical era marked by excess and all that glitters (gold and more gold). “Heaven on Earth” seems to be an appropriate theme for this period. However, Room 7’s “In the Name of Reason” theme represents new times and a sensible, frugal monarch. Joseph II said the Baroque style was too expensive, but perhaps he was too frugal. Taking the Baroque style to the opposite extreme, he allowed only one coffin per church. The coffin designed to meet this requirement had a bottom that would open, allowing the corpse to drop through. Thus, the church could use the coffin again and again.
Room 10 (“To Glorify God in Everything”) contains a 17th-century iron chest for secure storage and transporting the abbey’s most important documents and treasures. The chest features a convoluted locking mechanism comprising 14 still operational locks.
The detailed model of Melk Abbey housed in Room 11 (“Motion is a Sign of Life”) rotates, allowing you to see all sides unobstructed. A mirror on the ceiling provides a view into the model’s courtyards.
The Marble Hall served as a reception area for guests and a dining hall for the imperial family. The name ‘Marble’ Hall is somewhat misleading, as only the door frames are genuine marble. The ‘marble’ on the walls is faux marble. However, I could overlook this due to the magnificent ceiling fresco, which is complemented and framed by stunning architectural paintings.
The abbey library
The library is the second most important room in any Benedictine monastery, second only to the church.
My favourite library to date has been the Coimbra University Library in Portugal. However, the competition between that library and Melk Abbey’s Library would be close; both are stunningly beautiful, and there is something uniquely special about the mix of dark wood and old books.
The Melk Abbey library, completed in 1735, houses approximately 100,000 books and 1800 manuscripts, some dating back to the 9th century. The uniformity of the books on the inlaid bookshelves results from them being bound to match. With internal balconies, wooden sculptures, a massive free-standing world globe, figurines, and frescoed ceilings, the library offers an entrancing vision. It also exudes peace and tranquillity; it is a place where I could easily spend hours just sitting and soaking in the atmosphere. I am waxing lyrical here, but I can’t help it. The Melk Abbey Library does that to me. It’s no wonder Umberto Eco conducted his research for his book, The Name of the Rose, in Melk Abbey’s library. But more on that later.
The library’s upper floor, added in 1768 and accessed via a Rococo-style spiral staircase, is not open to the public.
Melk Abbey’s literary connection extends beyond the books in its historical library.
The Name of the Rose, written by Umberto Eco (1980), is a historical murder mystery (a medieval whodunit) set in an Italian Cistercian monastery in 1327.
But what does a story about murders in a Cistercian monastery in Italy have to do with a Benedictine monastery in Austria? The connection is Melk Abbey’s magnificent library. The focal point in The Name of the Rose is the library where all the murders take place. Melk Abbey’s library is said to be Eco’s inspiration for the library in The Name of the Rose.
But the connection goes deeper than that. One of Eco’s main characters in The Name of the Rose is Adso of Melk, a Benedictine novice from Melk Abbey. The Name of the Rose is Adso of Melk’s story, as he is the narrator. As a way of introduction, Adso of Melk informs us that he is writing his narrative, now an old man, at Melk Abbey. On the last page of The Name of the Rose, Adso of Melk tells the reader he is leaving his manuscript in the library of Melk Abbey.
The guided tour concluded in the library. I stayed behind to soak in the library’s ambience before visiting the church at the guide’s recommendation.
The abbey church
My visit to Melk Abbey’s church was not part of the guided tour, but it is a must-see due to its Baroque architecture and ornate interior of gold leaf, stucco, and marble.
The Altar of Coloman is noteworthy because it contains a sarcophagus with the remains of Saint Coloman, the patron saint of Melk Abbey. Some of the Babenbergs, Austria’s first rulers, are also buried in the church.
Melk Abbey’s church is viewed from The Balcony.
The Balcony connecting Marble Hall with the library offers magnificent views of Melk’s Old Town and the Melk and Danube rivers.
Helpful Information
Photography is prohibited inside Melk Abbey’s museum, Marble Hall, the library, and the church.
You don’t have to take the 50-minute guided tour of Melk Abbey (except in the winter months). However, in my opinion, this would be a false economy, as the explanations provided by the guide throughout the tour were invaluable. The guide’s storytelling brought Melk Abbey to life, revealing all its traits.
Melk Abbey’s brochure for individual guests provides detailed information on prices, guided tour times, and a tourist map of the abbey.
I visited Melk Abbey on a shore excursion during a river cruise along the Danube River. However, you can reach Melk by train from Vienna if you’re not on a river cruise. I recommend leaving enough time to explore the old town of Melk.
Melk Abbey isn’t just a beautiful building perched above the Danube; it’s a living piece of Austrian history, rich in art, culture, and spiritual significance. Touring its imperial rooms, ornate church, and the awe-inspiring library was unforgettable. It’s no surprise that Melk Abbey is one of the most photographed stops on Danube River cruises.
Whether cruising through the Wachau Valley or planning a land-based visit, Melk Abbey is absolutely worth your time. It’s a place where history breathes through frescoed ceilings, golden altars, and ancient manuscripts. It was a highlight of the cruise and one of the most memorable experiences of my trip through Austria.
If you’re looking for a cultural gem that combines architecture, history, and fabulous scenery, include Melk Abbey in your itinerary. You won’t be disappointed; I guarantee it is something special.
Editor’s Note: I first published this blog post in November 2019 and have since revised it for accuracy, thoroughness, and relevance.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
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Capture Amsterdam: A Traveller’s Honest Review of a Unique Photo Tour. Amsterdam is one of the most photogenic cities in the world, with its iconic canals, historic architecture, and…
Capture Amsterdam: A Traveller’s Honest Review of a Unique Photo Tour.
Amsterdam is one of the most photogenic cities in the world, with its iconic canals, historic architecture, and vibrant street life. But how do you go beyond the usual tourist snapshots and truly capture the essence of this stunning city? The answer: a photography tour.
On my last trip to Amsterdam, I joined Amsterdam Photo Safari for both a day and a night walking photography tour. This experience not only helped me see Amsterdam in a whole new light but also allowed me to improve my photography skills with the guidance of a professional photographer. With a local expert leading the way, I discovered hidden spots I would never have found on my own, refined my composition techniques, and experimented with camera settings to capture the city’s charm.
If you’re looking for a unique way to explore Amsterdam, here’s everything you need to know about my experience with Amsterdam Photo Safari and why a photography tour is worth considering.
About Amsterdam Photo Safari
Amsterdam Photo Safari is a specialised guided photography tour designed to help visitors capture the city’s beauty while learning valuable photography techniques from a fun and inspiring photographer guide.
What makes Amsterdam Photo Safari special?
Tours are conducted by professional photographers offering practical guidance while sharing tales of the city’s history, culture, and personal narratives.
The tours highlight hidden gems, venturing beyond the usual tourist spots.
Tours are tailored to cater to all skill levels, from beginners to advanced photographers. Non-photographing companions are also welcome.
Day and night tours are scheduled to depart at times to capture the best lighting conditions.
Group and private tours are available, with a maximum of four people shooting in group tours.
Whether you’re using a DSLR, mirrorless camera, point-and-shoot, or smartphone, the tour is designed to enhance your photography skills while discovering the best of Amsterdam.
My Experience: A Day and Night Photography Tour
I’m always keen to enhance my photography skills and learn how to better use my camera’s settings. What better way to achieve this while capturing the essence of a city than on a photography tour with a local? That’s precisely what I did when I signed up for two photography tours with Amsterdam Photo Safari – a night walk photography tour and a day walk photography tour.
Ruud was my photographer guide on both photography tours. Amsterdam is his home, and I had him to myself for both tours. This was pure luck as I hadn’t booked private tours. He unveiled this fantastic city’s personality as we walked around Amsterdam’s districts, opening its beating heart and multi-faceted soul. Ruud took me to places I would never have visited as a tourist. His knowledgeable stories brought Amsterdam to life for me. According to Ruud, “Every photo has a story, and to every story, there is a photo”. Not only did I feel I improved my photography skills from Ruud’s guided tuition, an excellent teacher, but I discovered Amsterdam from a born storyteller. I found my time with Rudd increased my consciousness of my surroundings. Particularly in terms of what to photograph, what will make an interesting photo, and what will make a photo pop. Thank you, Ruud.
Night tour: Exploring Amsterdam after dark
My night photography tour began before sunset, at 5.30 pm. As such, I experienced Amsterdam through daylight, dusk, and night shooting. Amsterdam is magical at night, with illuminated bridges, glowing windows, and streetlights reflected on the canals.
We spent most of the night tour in the Jordaan, a district now popular with the wealthy as they convert old brewery warehouses along the canals into trendy homes. Ruud grew up in the Jordaan and brought the area to life as he explained the history behind what I was photographing. For instance, he pointed out why hooks and pulleys hang from the tops of warehouses (now homes), translated the meanings of the picture tiles on the fronts of buildings, and explained the history behind the cannons with three crosses that line the streets.
Did you know that the three St. Andrew’s crosses seen all over Amsterdam – on flags, buildings, manhole covers and even on the poles that stop cars from driving on the pavement – represent the city’s official motto, “Valliant, Steadfast, Compassionate”?
A cannon (stopping cars driving on the bridge) with three crosses – the symbol of Amsterdam’s motto.
What I loved about the night tour:
I mastered long-exposure photography, an area I was previously unfamiliar with. This has opened a whole new genre of photography for me.
I learned how to adjust ISO and shutter speed for low-light conditions.
I became confident in using manual focus, with Rudd showing me how it better captures a subject that is, for example, reflected in a window or puddle.
I enjoyed soaking up the atmosphere of Amsterdam at night.
Two of my favourite shots were long-exposure images: one of a boat’s light trail as it glided along a canal and the other of building lights reflected in the water. Both scenes would have been difficult for me to capture on my own. Ruud provided invaluable tips on balancing exposure, using a tripod effectively, and composing stunning night images.
A canal boat passing in front of houses on a canal in Amsterdam becomes a transparent, colourful trail of lights through long exposure.
Long exposure: The lights from several buildings along one of Amsterdam’s main canals are reflected in the water.
Day tour: Capturing Amsterdam in natural light
I started my day photography tour in the late morning. Rudd took me to the Maritime Museum for some architectural shots, as the museum resembles a sinking ship with its bow in the air. We then strolled around the harbour, where only boats older than 100 years may moor. We wandered down picturesque streets, quiet courtyards, and lesser-known canals.
What I loved about the day tour:
I explored neighbourhoods away from the tourist crowds.
I learned how to frame my shots more creatively.
I experimented with reflections, capturing them in windows and canals.
Learning from Rudd how to tell a story with my photos instead of merely snapping them.
One of my highlights was capturing the street reflected in the windows of a building using manual focus. I’ve always shied away from manual focus, relying instead on autofocus, so manually focusing a shot posed a challenge. Ruud patiently guided me through the manual focus process – when to use it, how to set the focal point, and how to recompose.
The reflections in the windows of this building were like eyes on the street, lending the building a character all its own – quintessential Amsterdam.
Why a Photography Tour is a Great Way to Explore Amsterdam
A photography tour offers a unique and enriching way to explore a destination. Here are several reasons why joining a photography tour, like Amsterdam Photo Safari, can be a great experience:
See Amsterdam Differently: A photography tour encourages you to slow down and notice details you might otherwise miss, such as reflections in canals, hidden alleyways, or interesting architectural details. It’s a chance to experience the city beyond the usual tourist perspective.
Learn from a Local Expert: A professional photographer will give you insider knowledge about the best photo spots, perfect angles, and effective lighting techniques. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced photographer, the hands-on guidance will enhance your skills in lighting, camera settings, and creative approaches.
Capture Unique and Authentic Moments: Unlike traditional sightseeing tours, a photography tour helps you focus on storytelling through images, allowing you to capture unique and artistic shots instead of generic tourist photos – photos that truly reflect your experience.
Discover Hidden Gems and Local Secrets: Photographer guides know the city and can take you to locations that tourists rarely visit, offering fresh perspectives of Amsterdam beyond the usual landmarks.
Experience Amsterdam in the Best Light: Timing is everything in photography. Photography tours take place at different times of the day, allowing you to see Amsterdam in various moods and lighting conditions.
Travel with Like-Minded People: Photography tours bring together people who share a passion for capturing beautiful moments. It’s an opportunity to exchange ideas, gain inspiration, and enjoy the creative process with fellow travellers.
Save Time Searching for the Best Spots: Your photographer guide has already scouted the most photogenic locations, saving you hours of research and guesswork. You’ll be in the right place at the right time to get the perfect shot.
Develop a Deeper Connection with Amsterdam: Taking the time to frame shots and observe details enhances your appreciation for Amsterdam’s culture, history, and atmosphere.
Bring Home More Than Just Memories: Rather than generic tourist snapshots, you’ll return home with meaningful, high-quality images that truly reflect your experience – photos you’ll be proud to share and revisit.
Overall, a photography tour can be an exciting and rewarding experience for photographers of all levels.
Practical Information
Don’t do a night and day photography tour back-to-back! Both tours involve a lot of constant walking, and you need to have the stamina to keep going. I must admit, by 3.30 pm on the day tour (the day after my night tour), I was ready to sit down and not get up again.
I booked my tours directly through Amsterdam Photo Safari. Living in Australia, I communicated with them via email, but bookings can also be made using WhatsApp. Booking with Amsterdam Photo Safari was incredibly easy, thanks to their prompt and detailed responses to my queries. Once I booked, communication from Amsterdam Photo Safari didn’t stop; they kept me informed about who my photographer guide would be, the meeting place and time and even suggested places worth visiting near Amsterdam.
Tour prices vary depending on the duration (three, five or seven hours) and type of tour (group or private). I paid for my tours through PayPal (no account required).
What to Bring
A camera (DSLR, mirrorless, point-and-shoot, or smartphone). I use a Nikon DSLR.
A tripod is essential for night photography tours. You can hire one from Amsterdam Photo Safari for €30.
For night photography, you will need a remote shutter release or know where the timer is in your camera settings. I had left my remote shutter release in my hotel room (clever!) and couldn’t remember how to set the in-camera timer. Though “not overly familiar” with Nikon cameras (he uses a Sony), Ruud wasn’t fazed by this and quickly found the in-camera timer.
Comfortable walking shoes are a must. Although the tours include breaks where you get to sit down, you’ll be walking a lot. Fortunately, Amsterdam is flat.
Weather-appropriate clothing. On this trip, I travelled to Amsterdam at the end of summer. The temperature was mild, and after having rained all day, the skies were clear for the night photography tour. There was a spell of heavy rain during the day photography tour; however, it had stopped by the time we finished our lunch break.
Bring an open mindset and be prepared to be challenged. Ruud was particularly enthusiastic about using a shallow depth of field, suggesting that I set the camera’s f-stop to f/3.5 (the lowest my camera allows). For those unfamiliar with photography, a shallow depth of field means the immediate foreground is in focus, such as a box of flowers or a bicycle. At the same time, the background appears out of focus (blurred). My passion lies in travel photography, and I questioned whether such a shallow depth of field would meet my needs. Ruud argued that even though the background is blurred, it remains recognisable and results in a more creative photo. Check out the photo below for a visual explanation of what I’m talking about. Although I went along with Ruud’s suggestion, I thought I would never use such a shallow depth of field in my travel photography. I tend to prefer having everything in focus. Yet, to my surprise, I found myself using f/3.5 during my further travels through Europe and quietly thanked Ruud. Now, I have some pretty good, creative photos to add to my memories of the places I’ve visited.
Most of all, enjoy yourself!
Shallow depth of field: The flowers are sharp (in focus), while the canal boats are blurred (out of focus).
Final Thoughts: Is Amsterdam Photo Safari Worth It?
Absolutely! Whether you’re a photography enthusiast or just want to see Amsterdam in a unique way, Amsterdam Photo Safari’s photography tours offer an unforgettable experience. Ruud’s extensive knowledge and passion for the city and photography made the tour educational, fun, and inspiring.
Would I do it again? Without a doubt! If you love travel photography or simply want a fresh perspective on Amsterdam, I highly recommend Amsterdam Photo Safari.
My Amsterdam Photo Safari tours were more than just photography sessions; they were an opportunity to engage with the city meaningfully and creatively. With expert guidance, I discovered photogenic spots off the beaten path, gained a deeper understanding of my camera, and left with a portfolio of photos I’m truly proud of.
This experience reminded me that photography isn’t just about taking pictures – it’s about seeing a destination through fresh eyes. If you want to elevate your photography and experience Amsterdam in a unique and authentic way, I wholeheartedly recommend joining a tour with Amsterdam Photo Safari.
Editor’s Note: I first published this blog post in November 2019 and have since revised it for accuracy, thoroughness, and relevance.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
Is This Queensland’s Best Kept Secret? Discover the Beauty of Cobbold Gorge: a Hidden Gem on the Savannah Way. Nestled in the heart of outback Queensland, Cobbold Gorge is…
Is This Queensland’s Best Kept Secret? Discover the Beauty of Cobbold Gorge: a Hidden Gem on the Savannah Way.
Nestled in the heart of outback Queensland, Cobbold Gorge is a stunning natural wonder that provides an immersive adventure into Australia’s rugged beauty. This ancient hidden gem in the heart of the Gulf Savannah region is one of the country’s youngest gorges. It features breathtaking sandstone formations, a tranquil waterway, and an unforgettable tour experience.
During my visit to Cobbold Gorge, I joined the three-hour official guided tour, including a scenic circular escarpment walk, an exhilarating glass bridge suspended over the gorge, and a peaceful cruise through the gorge’s serene waters on an electric boat. This unique experience provided a perfect blend of adventure and tranquillity, allowing me to appreciate the gorge from above and below, with each perspective unveiling something new and awe-inspiring.
In this post, I’ll share my experience of the Cobbold Gorge tour, my thoughts on what made it special, and essential practical tips to help you plan your own visit to this spectacular hidden gem in the Australian outback.
About Cobbold Gorge
Cobbold Gorge is located on a working cattle station, Robin Hood Station, 461 kilometres (about six hours) west of Cairns in Queensland’s remote Gulf Savannah region. The closest town is the historic gold mining town of Forsayth, about 45 kilometres away.
The gorge is part of a geologically ancient landscape slowly carved over millions of years by water erosion. Although this natural wonder is 135 million years old, Cobbold Gorge is Queensland’s youngest and narrowest gorge. Its narrow sandstone walls, some as close as two metres apart, make it one of the most unique gorges in Australia. Unlike larger, more open gorges, Cobbold Gorge offers an intimate, almost otherworldly experience, especially when seen from the water.
The area is culturally significant to the Ewamian people, the traditional owners of the land, who have inhabited this region for thousands of years.
The 3-Hour Cobbold Gorge Tour
The official guided tour is the only way to access Cobbold Gorge, as it is a protected nature refuge. This arrangement protects its fragile ecosystem while enabling visitors to fully appreciate its stunning beauty.
The well-organised three-hour guided tour, which included travel to and from the gorge, was split into two parts: an escarpment walk with the glass bridge crossing and a silent boat cruise through the gorge.
Escarpment walk to the top of the gorge
Cobbold Creek is the starting point for the guided walk up to the escarpment and over the gorge.
The adventure began with a 4WD bus ride from Cobbold Gorge Village to the gorge’s Interpretive Centre (bus shelter). From the Interpretive Centre, the dirt track to the top of the escarpment overlooking the gorge winds through weathered sandstone outcrops, rugged bushland, and panoramic viewpoints. We were told to look for wildlife, such as wallabies and goannas, but I didn’t see any.
While we walked, the guide shared intriguing insights about how the gorge was formed, how water sculpted the landscape, and pointed out fossils embedded in the rocks.
One of the tour’s highlights was the walk across Australia’s first entirely glass bridge at the highest point of the escarpment. The glass bridge spans the 11-metre gap between the gorge’s cliffs. It is made of 41-millimetre-thick glass, which I was assured was thick enough to prevent me from falling 17 metres into the water below. We had to wear blue booties over our shoes to prevent the glass from getting scratched.
View through the glass bridge to the water 17 metres below.
This transparent bridge, constructed in 2019, closed an inaccessible gap and provided extra viewing opportunities along the length of the gorge.
View of Cobbold Gorge taken from the left-hand side of the glass bridge.
View of Cobbold Gorge taken from the right-hand side of the glass bridge, with a tourist boat gliding through its waters.
Looking back at the glass bridge as we continued our walk over the gorge and down again.
I don’t fear heights, but I must admit that walking across the glass bridge sent adrenaline pumping through my body. I could hear my heart beating in my head!
The walking component of the tour was approximately 1.5 kilometres and took just over an hour to complete. While it was described as an easy to moderate walk, I wouldn’t recommend it for anyone who isn’t sure on their feet. The trail included narrow sections, loose shale, rocks, and ledges to navigate. To the guides’ credit, we were informed about the trail conditions before starting the walk, as it’s not possible to turn back once you commence. We had two people opt out of the walk, choosing to wait by the boats for the cruise component of the tour.
While we were assured the glass bridge is engineered to the highest standards and is perfectly safe, if having just a sheet of glass separating you from the gorge floor below is too much to handle, you might opt for the cruise only.
After soaking in the breathtaking views from the rocky escarpment, the tour descended the gorge through the bush for a completely different perspective – on the water itself.
Boat cruise through the gorge
Cruising through Cobbold Gorge.
Looking up at the glass bridge as we glide over Cobbold Gorge’s still waters.
Thanks to the electric-powered boats, the one-hour journey along Cobbold Gorge’s narrow waterway was peaceful, interrupted only by occasional birdsong, the splash of a fish, and the guide’s quiet storytelling.
Some sections of Cobbold Gorge were so narrow that, at times, I felt enclosed by the towering walls that almost blocked out the sky.
As the electric boat moved soundlessly, the tranquil atmosphere descended upon my mind, leaving me with an experience that would stay long after I left.
As we drifted through the cool, shaded passageways, the water reflected the sandstone walls, creating a mesmerising mirror effect that made me feel like I was floating through an enchanted gap in the earth.
The towering walls of Cobbold Gorge are reflected in the water as an electric boat vanishes into the narrowing passage.
Final Thoughts
Cobbold Gorge is one of those rare places that feels truly untouched. Whether standing high above the gorge, walking across a glass bridge, or floating silently through its waters, this tour offers a perfect blend of adventure, tranquillity, and two unique perspectives.
I only regret missing out on the scenic helicopter flight over the gorge for that third perspective. As a solo traveller, I could have been paired with other travellers. However, flights have a maximum of three passengers and are subject to strict weight limits per flight. As much as the Cobbold Gorge staff tried, the passenger-to-weight ratio didn’t work in my favour during my short stay. Bookings are essential!
Cobbold Gorge is a must-visit if you love off-the-beaten-path destinations, stunning landscapes, and unique experiences. It may be remote, but the reward is a hidden paradise that will be etched in your memory forever.
What You Need to Know
Cobbold Gorge is only open from 1 April to 31 October during the dry season.
You can only visit Cobbold Gorge on an official guided tour; bookings are essential. You will need comfortable, covered walking shoes, a hat, sunscreen, water, and a camera.
The most common way to reach Cobbold Gorge is by self-driving, a six-hour drive from Cairns. If you are comfortable driving on dirt roads, you should not be limited by the vehicle you drive or tow. However, if you hire a car to drive to Cobbold Gorge, you must check their policy regarding driving on dirt roads.
I arrived in Cobbold Gorge on APT’s 12-day Savannah Explorer tour from Darwin to Cairns. Some tour companies offer multi-day trips from Cairns, including a stay at Cobbold Gorge and the official guided tour.
Accommodation is available at Cobbold Gorge Village, which offers ensuite cabins, motel-style rooms, and camping and caravaning sites (powered and unpowered). The village has a licensed bar, bistro, and store to purchase souvenirs, gifts, and basic grocery items. Our tour group stayed two nights in the “Rouseabout” rooms. My room was comfortable with everything I needed for my stay, including air conditioning, a TV, a bar fridge, and tea and coffee-making facilities. I enjoyed sitting on the balcony of an evening watching the sun slide behind the Australian bush. My only criticism was the tiny ensuite bathroom, so small I had to dry myself in the room’s foyer.
When I left Cobbold Gorge, I felt a deep sense of awe and a renewed appreciation for the raw beauty of the Australian outback. The guided tour was a comprehensive and memorable experience, allowing me to fully appreciate this hidden gem’s unique features. Cobbold Gorge is a must-visit destination for an adventure combining stunning landscapes with insightful commentary. I hope my experience encourages you to discover this remarkable natural wonder for yourself.
Be sure to put Cobbold Gorge on your itinerary; you won’t be disappointed!
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
From Bay to Cape: Salt Air’s Scenic Fly/Drive Tour to Cape Reinga Offers a Unique Opportunity to Soar Over Northland’s Coastline and Explore the Iconic Cape. If you’re seeking…
From Bay to Cape: Salt Air’s Scenic Fly/Drive Tour to Cape Reinga Offers a Unique Opportunity to Soar Over Northland’s Coastline and Explore the Iconic Cape.
If you’re seeking a one-of-a-kind way to explore the stunning landscapes of New Zealand’s Northland, Salt Air’s Cape Reinga fly/drive tour presents an unforgettable adventure. This tour merges the thrill of a scenic flight with the close-up experience of a guided drive, highlighting the region’s best from above and below. From the sweeping vistas of Ninety Mile Beach to the spiritual significance of Cape Reinga, this journey guarantees a rich mix of natural beauty and cultural heritage. Along the way, you’ll take a refreshing break at Tapotupotu Bay, one of Northland’s pristine beaches, and experience the exhilarating thrill of sandboarding down the towering dunes at Te Paki. Join me as I guide you through the highlights of this excellent tour, offering insights and tips to ensure you get the most out of your visit to New Zealand’s northernmost point.
About Salt Air
Salt Air is a family business that has been operating since December 1992. Its office is in the picturesque town of Paihia, in New Zealand’s Bay of Islands. Salt Air offers fixed-wing plane and helicopter tours around Northland (the tip of New Zealand’s North Island).
I booked my tour with Salt Air through Grand Pacific Tours, the company I travelled with through New Zealand’s North and South Islands. Grand Pacific Tours recommended a tour with Salt Air as an optional activity in Paihia for those who wanted a unique view of Northland and the Bay of Islands. That was me!
I chose Salt Air’s Cape Reinga Half Day Tour by Aeroplane, which offered scenic views of Northland’s interior, coast, and islands and an immersive experience at Cape Reinga.
Cape Reinga Half Day Tour by Aeroplane with Salt Air
Cape Reinga Half Day Tour fly/drive tour route (Salt Air brochure 2022-2023)
Salt Air picked me up from Paihia Wharf with six other passengers at 12.30 pm. We then drove 20 minutes to Kerikeri Airport to begin our fly/drive tour in a seven-seater (plus pilot) fixed-wing plane.
Leaving Paihia on the 45-minute flight to Cape Reinga, Northland’s lush green hills gave way to the west coast’s famous Ninety Mile Beach, a natural wonder showcasing Northland’s rugged beauty. Despite its name, Ninety Mile Beach is only 55 miles (88 kilometres) long. The beach is an official highway best suited for 4WD vehicles driving on the hard-packed sand. However, on the afternoon of my scenic flight, the beach was deserted of cars and tourist buses.
Aerial view of Ninety Mile Beach on Northland’s west coast.
Landing on a grass runway on a hill, we swapped the plane for a minivan, where our pilot became our driver and tour guide. Now, we began our guided vehicle tour, discovering the best the tip of New Zealand’s North Island had to offer.
Our first stop was at Cape Reinga and the iconic Cape Reinga Lighthouse.
Cape Reinga Te Rerenga Wairua is New Zealand’s northernmost accessible point and a place where Māori believe the spirits of the dead depart for their ancestral homeland. This dramatic headland, surrounded by wild coastal landscapes, is where the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean currents collide.
Perched at the tip of Cape Reinga, the iconic white lighthouse has been guiding ships through these waters since 1941. Its beacon is visible 35 kilometres out to sea. At 165 metres above sea level, the Cape Reinga Lighthouse provides stunning panoramic views of the vast ocean ahead and the rugged coastline. It is one of New Zealand’s most photographed landmarks.
The walk from the Cape Reinga car park to the lighthouse is 800 metres one way along a wide sealed path. Although it’s described as an easy walk, you should know there are some quite steep sections. Along the way, the walk offers magnificent views of the surrounding ocean and landscape as the lighthouse gradually reveals itself.
Te Werahi Beach, Cape Maria Van Diemen, with Motuopoa Island on the right – view on the walk to Cape Reinga Lighthouse.
Cape Reinga Lighthouse, with 360-degree views, appears on the headland.
Cape Reinga Lighthouse with the yellow signpost showing distances to the South Pole, the Equator, Vancouver, Los Angeles, and more.
The lighthouse itself is not open to the public, but a visit to the site is a must-do.
A ten-minute drive from Cape Reinga brought us to picturesque Tapotupotu Bay, where we stopped for tea, coffee, and muffins under the shade of native trees. Tapotupotu Bay provided a tranquil contrast to the dramatic landscapes of the cape. Before heading to our next stop, I took a leisurely stroll along the golden sands of Tapotupotu Beach and cooled my feet in the calm waters.
Tapotupotu Bay for afternoon tea and a walk along the picturesque beach.
The final stop before our flight back to Paihia was the Te Paki Sand Dunes, also known as the Giant Sand Dunes. These massive dunes, some towering up to 150 metres, presented an impressive and unexpected contrast to our earlier experiences on this tour. One of the highlights was the opportunity to go sandboarding down the steep slopes of the dunes. Salt Air provides sandboards for its guests.
Sandboarding down the massive Te Paki Sand Dunes.
The one-hour flight back to Paihia took us down Northland’s spectacular east coast, soaring over several beautiful bays, harbours, and stretches of white silica sand against a turquoise sea.
The vast expanses of brilliant white silica sand on Parengarenga Harbour’s shores are among the world’s purest and were once mined for glassmaking. Flying over Parengarenga Harbour was an absolute joy, as it is remote and can only be seen from the air or sea.
Aerial view of the white silica sands of Parengarenga Harbour.
Before turning inland for Kerikeri Airport, we flew over the breathtaking Bay of Islands.
The Bay of Islands is a stunning coastal paradise. It is home to an impressive archipelago of 144 islands scattered across crystal-clear waters, ranging from small rocky outcrops to larger, verdant landscapes. Renowned for its turquoise waters, golden beaches, and lush greenery, the Bay of Islands is a haven for nature lovers, history buffs, and adventure seekers. Read my blog post for a detailed review of my sky and sea exploration of the Bay of Islands.
Flying over Northland’s stunning Bay of Islands.
Salt Air’s Cape Reinga Tour by Aeroplane was an unforgettable adventure, and I highly recommend it. In just 4.5 hours, I experienced an incredible mix of iconic landmarks, rugged coastlines, tranquil bays, and towering sand dunes – all without feeling rushed.
The scenic flights were just as breathtaking as the ground experiences. From soaring over lush mountain ranges to navigating the length of Ninety Mile Beach and following the spectacular east coast, the ever-changing scenery was mesmerising.
I thank Sam, our pilot, driver, and tour guide, for his outstanding job throughout the afternoon. He multitasked with ease, his knowledge of the area was excellent, and his patience with a diverse group of people was commendable. Well done, Sam!
This tour was the perfect way to discover New Zealand’s Northland, combining exhilarating aerial views with immersive on-the-ground experiences. If you’re looking for a unique, action-packed journey, this is the one you can’t miss!
A Unique Perspective
Aerial view of New Zealand’s Northland en route to Cape Reinga.
View from the Salt Air pilot’s window of the Bay of Islands below.
Aerial view of Northland’s mountainous east coast.
Practical Information
Northland, situated at the northern tip of New Zealand’s North Island, features low elevation and close proximity to the sea, resulting in a mild, humid, and quite windy climate. Summers are warm and tend to be humid, while winters remain mild. Rainfall is generally abundant throughout the year, with sporadic heavy downpours. Nevertheless, dry spells can occur, particularly during summer and autumn. Most parts of Northland receive around 2,000 hours of sunshine annually.
While in Paihia, I stayed at the Scenic Hotel Bay of Islands, a comfortable, 4-star resort-style hotel just 0.9 kilometres from Paihia Wharf and the heart of the town. The hotel comprises groups of two-story villas with several rooms on each villa’s two levels. There are no lifts to the second floor. So, if you don’t want to carry a bag up a flight of stairs, ask for a ground-floor room.
Salt Air’s Cape Reinga fly/drive tour is more than just a journey; it’s an immersive experience that captures the essence of New Zealand’s stunning Northland region. Every moment is filled with discovery, from the awe-inspiring aerial views during the scenic flight to the cultural and natural wonders explored on land. The refreshing stop at Tapotupotu Bay offers a serene break amidst the adventure, while the thrill of sandboarding down the Te Paki dunes adds a dash of excitement to the day. This tour seamlessly blends the beauty, history, and adventure of the North, leaving you with memories that will last a lifetime. If you’re seeking a unique and enriching way to explore Cape Reinga, Salt Air’s fly/drive tour is absolutely worth taking.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. Unless otherwise stated, all photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
Which part of this tour sounds most exciting to you – the scenic flight, Cape Reinga Lighthouse, relaxing at Tapotupotu Bay, or sandboarding at Te Paki?
I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.
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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
Mountains, Museums, and Medieval Magic: Catalonia Unveiled Through Unforgettable Day Trips for Every Traveller. Welcome to my travel blog, where I am excited to share with you exceptional day…
Mountains, Museums, and Medieval Magic: Catalonia Unveiled Through Unforgettable Day Trips for Every Traveller.
Welcome to my travel blog, where I am excited to share with you exceptional day trips beyond the streets of Barcelona. Join me as I recount my unforgettable experiences on five diverse and awe-inspiring tours from Barcelona. From towering mountains to rugged coastlines, from quaint medieval villages frozen in time to the birthplace of Surrealism, these five exceptional tours take you to another world of Catalonian beauty and wonder.
Catalonia’s diverse landscapes offer a diversity of experiences. Embarking on day trips from Barcelona opens up a world of exploration, where each destination promises its unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. Whether you’re drawn to the spiritual heights of Montserrat, the sun-kissed shores of Costa Brava, the timeless charm of medieval villages, the rugged grandeur of the Pyrenees, or the artistic legacy of Salvador Dali, there’s a world of exploration waiting to be uncovered. Catalonia’s day trips have something for everyone!
I booked this tour from Australia before leaving for Spain.
Julia Travel promotes this small group trip as discovering “one of the most mystic Catalan wonders”.
Montserrat Monastery is an 11th-century Benedictine monastery on Montserrat Mountain (meaning ‘serrated mountain’), 60 kilometres northwest of Barcelona. The monastery hangs onto the side of the mountain 725 metres above sea level.
About 80 monks reside at the monastery, which is famous for the Black Madonna statue in the basilica and one of the oldest boys’ choirs in Europe.
Montserrat Monastery perched on the side of the mountain.
I took this photo of Montserrat Monastery across the valley at the Cross of St Michael.
The tour as I experienced it:
There were five of us on the Montserrat full-day tour, plus the guide. We travelled on the bus from Barcelona to Montserrat with the morning-only tour participants, separating into two groups (morning-only group and full-day group) on arrival at Montserrat Abbey.
An hour after leaving Barcelona, we arrived at the rack railway (also referred to as the Cremallera) at the bottom of Montserrat Mountain in the small town of Monistrol de Montserrat for the cogwheel train ride up the mountain to the centre of the Monserrat Monastery complex. The five-kilometre, 15-minute ride provided fantastic views of this unusual mountain. As you leave the train, pause to take in the views of the mountain that towers above the monastery and basilica and the deep valley below.
The morning was spent with our tour guide, learning about the monastery, visiting the basilica and Black Madonna, and watching a short documentary about the monastery’s world-famous Boys’ Choir (L’Escolania).
We could not see the Boys’ Choir perform in person as the boys were on school holidays.
The Atrium (open courtyard) in front of the Basilica and front facade of the Basilica.
The Black Madonna inside Montserrat Basilica.
The famous Black Madonna wooden statue sits behind glass at the back of the church above the high altar. We joined the queue of pilgrims and tourists to file past the Black Madonna, where many stopped to touch her hand through a cut in the glass.
According to our guide, the Madonna’s face is black due to a botched restoration in about the 12th century when the wrong varnish was used, turning her face black. It was decided to leave her face black, with locals saying that maybe the Madonna wanted a black face. However, historical descriptions of the Madonna say she has simply darkened over time. This latter theory makes more sense, given that the face of the baby Jesus sitting on Madonna’s lap also appears black.
The guided morning tour ended at 12.10 pm, and we were free to spend the rest of the day as we pleased, meeting again at 6.15 pm for the bus trip back to Barcelona.
With the afternoon free, I was eager to take a walk on Montserrat Mountain, starting at the top and walking down. To do this, I rode the Funicular de Sant Joan from Montserrat Monastery to the summit of Montserrat Mountain, about 300 metres above the monastery. I took the path to the left of the Funicular station that wound around and down the mountain to the Cross of Saint Michael (Sant Miquel)) and back down to the monastery.
The signpost at the beginning of the path indicated it was a 40-minute walk to the Cross of Saint Michael. The Cross was about one and a half hours into my very steep descent down Montserrat Mountain, and I still had about 20 minutes to go before I arrived back at the monastery. But I was in no hurry as I took in the spectacular views of Montserrat Mountain’s unique geological (‘serrated’) formation and the valleys and river below.
View from Montserrat (‘serrated’) Mountain.
Cross of Saint Michael and the valley below
While the walk down the mountain was not technically demanding (it’s a paved path nearly all the way), I did find the steep descent challenging. There were times when the decline was so steep my back was almost vertical to the path. The heat was another challenging factor. I’m sure I was on that mountain on its hottest day ever recorded!
Back at Montserrat Monastery, I had a late lunch at the cafeteria – a buffet that cost €19,50 and was not worth the money.
My tour review / final thoughts:
According to their website, Julia Travel no longer offers the full-day Montserrat tour from Barcelona that I did. Instead, they offer a morning (5.5 hours) and afternoon (4.5 hours) tour with the cogwheel train at €59 and €51, respectively.
Having done both the morning and full-day tours a few weeks apart, I believe a half-day tour does not allow time to immerse yourself in the beauty of the mountains where the monastery sits. While visiting the abbey and basilica and learning their history was interesting, the highlight for me was the walk on Montserrat Mountain. It would be a shame to miss out on one of the several walks you can take around Montserrat.
The Sant Jeroni walking trail on Montserrat Mountain
There was a communication issue with Julia Travel on this tour. Arriving in Montserrat, the guide sent us to grab a coffee as she was trying to contact Julia Travel to organise our entrance tickets into the basilica and the Black Madonna, delaying the start of the tour by half an hour. Then, when it came to leaving Montserrat, Julia Travel forgot there were five of us doing the full-day tour and supposedly leaving on the same bus as the afternoon tour. However, 50 people were on the afternoon tour, and it was a 50-seater bus. Consequently, we (the five full-day tour group) were taken off the bus and had to wait for another bus from Barcelona to come and get us. So, instead of leaving Montserrat at 6.15 pm, we left an hour later, arriving back in Barcelona at 8.10 pm. Luckily, it wasn’t dark as I had a 35-minute walk back to the hotel, and people were only starting to come out for dinner in restaurants then.
I found Julia Travel’s communication a repetitive problem. I had booked another tour with Julie Travel to Salvador Dali’s Theatre-Museum and Villages – a tour I was particularly keen on taking. However, arriving at 8.00 am at Julia Travel’s office on the day of the tour, I learned it had been cancelled. I received an apology for not being informed and a refund. However, this was not good enough and amounted to unacceptable customer service.
The setting alone makes Montserrat Monastery worth a visit. But it was the mountain walk that made this tour memorable for me.
Llobregat Valley and River taken from Montserrat Mountain
Explore Catalunya promotes this small group trip as the “Best tour for Dali enthusiasts, and you’ll see hidden treasures off the beaten path”.
The summer schedule for this day trip (1st July – 14th September) does not include the coastal village of Cadaques, which is included in the winter tour schedule. Instead, the summer schedule takes you to Gala Dali’s Castle in Pubol. I was on the summer schedule day trip.
Near the border with France and about 136 kilometres north of Barcelona, Figueres is famous for being the birthplace of the artist Salvador Dali, an artist I have been a fan of for many decades. It is also home to his world-famous Theatre and Museum.
The Dali Theatre-Museum is a museum dedicated solely to the Spanish artist Salvador Dali, a genius of Surrealism. Built by Dali, it is considered the world’s largest surrealist object and is crowded with his artworks – paintings, sculptures, photographs, and jewellery.
Built by Salvador Dali – the Dali Theatre-Museum in Figueres.
Salvador Dali’s painting “Soft Self-Portrait with Grilled Bacon” 1941.
Dali is buried in a crypt beneath the dome of his Theatre-Museum.
The tour as I experienced it:
On arrival in Figueres, we headed to the world-famous Dali Theatre-Museum for a half-hour guided tour with our Explore Catalunya guide. Following the guided tour, we had one and a half hours of free time to explore the three floors of the Theatre-Museum for ourselves.
After leaving Figueres at 12.45 pm, we drove a short half-hour to the pretty, seaside medieval village of Sant Marti d’Empuries on the Costa Brava. Here, we were given two hours of free time for lunch, to explore, or to take a dip in the Mediterranean Sea.
I had a delicious salad at L’Escalapi Restaurant and Pizzeria – a Goat’s Cheese Salad with lettuce, tomatoes, goat’s cheese, walnuts, pine nuts, sultanas, and mustard and honey dressing. Spain does salads so well! I followed up my salad with Sugar and Lemon Crepes. The total cost for lunch was €20 (AU$33).
I walked off lunch by wandering around Sant Marti d’Empuries, admiring its medieval buildings and checking out the beach – a lovely spot to stay a while.
Sant Marti d’Empuries – the village
Sant Marti d’Empuries – the beach
Our last stop for the day was Gala Dali’s Castle in the tiny village of Pubol. The castle is the house Salvador Dali bought for his wife. Salvador didn’t live here until after Gala’s death and had to be invited by Gala to visit.
We were given a half-hour guided tour inside the castle and half an hour of free time to explore its gardens. According to our guide, Gala wanted to design the interior herself, but there is substantial Salvador Dali influence (artworks) inside the castle and its grounds. I particularly loved the Dali sculptures of long-legged elephants in the gardens.
There’s an elephant in the garden!
Gala is buried in the crypt designed by her husband in the castle’s basement.
Leaving Pubol at 5.00 pm, we arrived in Barcelona at 6.45 pm.
My tour review / final thoughts:
I have been a fan of Salvador Dali for many decades, and visiting his Theatre Museum was on my bucket list as soon as I started planning my trip to Spain. And I wasn’t disappointed! As I viewed his works over three floors, I got a glimpse into his unique world and learned so much about the evolution of his artistic styles.
Salvador Dali – the master of Surrealism
Dali decorated his Theatre-Museum in his unique style
Dali’s “Mae West Lips Sofa” 1937-1937
Dali’s Lithograph “Eternal Circumcism” 1968
My only criticism of the two hours allocated in the Dali Theatre-Museum is that it wasn’t long enough. Viewing artworks should be a relaxed experience, but I felt rushed as I wanted to take in as much as possible. It also didn’t give me time to view the jewellery Dali designed for his wife or to visit the museum shop, where I had hoped to buy a book on Salvador Dali.
Here’s some trivia: Dali designed the Spanish lollipop Chupa Chups logo. I never knew Chupa Chups were Spanish! Perhaps I need to attend more trivia nights because the question of who created the Chupa Chups logo is, apparently, frequently asked.
Explore Catalunya must ensure the full tour description reflects the actual tour itinerary. Their detailed summer schedule full tour description maintains that Platge de Castell would be our last stop after Gala Dali’s Castle before returning to Barcelona. However, we never visited Platge de Castell, “one of those rare hidden corners you can still find on the Costa Brava”. Instead, we visited Sant Marti d’Empuries on the Mediterranean coast before heading to Gala’s Castle. I can’t say I was disappointed as I knew nothing about Platge de Castell, and Sant Marti d’Empuries was an enchanting village that I thoroughly enjoyed exploring.
I booked this tour because I wanted to see as much as possible about Salvador Dali that was available at the time. As such, I was pleased Explore Catalunya included Gala Dali’s Castle in the tour. I must admit, I found Gala’s home uninteresting but did enjoy wandering through the castle’s grounds. The hour at Gala Dali’s Castle was more than sufficient time to see everything there was.
Explore Catalunya promotes this small group trip as being transported “to one of the most breathtakingly beautiful stretches of coastline in the whole of Europe – the Costa Brava”.
The Costa Brava is a coastal region of Catalonia on the Mediterranean Sea in northeastern Spain. It stretches from Blanes, a city 60 kilometres northeast of Barcelona, to the French border.
The tour as I experienced it:
About an hour’s drive from Barcelona, we arrived in Blanes – the gateway to Costa Brava. We didn’t stop in Blanes (a city of nearly 50,000 people) but drove straight to Cala Sant Francesc – a picturesque small cove with yellow sand and turquoise waters.
Alighting from the bus on the hill above Cala Sant Francesc, our guide gave us the option to spend our two hours’ free time at the beach or walking around the nearby Marimurtra Botanical Garden. I chose the Botanical Garden, described as one of the most beautiful gardens on the Mediterranean.
Marimurtra Botanical Garden
Marimurtra Botanical Garden is situated on the top of a cliff, providing stunning views of the picturesque Costa Brava with its white sand coves, crystal clear turquoise and aqua waters, and rugged coastline.
Costa Brava viewed from Marimurtra Botanical Garden.
Costa Brava’s coastline.
Leaving Cala Sant Francesc at 12.30 pm, we headed for lunch at a family-owned typical Mediterranean restaurant outside of Blanes. Our set menu consisted of a selection of traditional local dishes for starters with a glass of Sangria, a choice of several main courses, and a choice of Mel i Moto (a traditional Catalan dessert) or ice cream.
After a leisurely lunch, we drove for about half an hour to Tossa de Mar – a resort town home to the last preserved fortified town on the Costa Brava coast. Upon arrival, our guide took us on an orientation walk through the town and then given over an hour of free time.
I didn’t go for a swim in the waters of the very crowded beach or seek a coffee in the many cafes and restaurants packed with people. I opted instead to walk up the hill to the lighthouse and fortifications on the town’s highest point.
From the lighthouse and fortifications, I could see over the town, the many boats moored in Tossa de Mar’s bay, and a panoramic view of the Mediterranean Sea with its blue waters and rugged coastline.
Tossa de Mar – town, beach and fortifications
Tossa de Mar was our last stop for the day. An hour and a half drive saw us back in Barcelona.
My tour review / final thoughts:
According to Explore Catalunya, the picturesque Cala Sant Francesc is “one of the few remaining coves on the coast that have avoided the crowds of tourists and big commercial developments and are known only to locals”. All I can say is there must be a lot of locals because the cove’s beach was crowded. Explore Catalunya goes on to say we would have the beach to ourselves. I think they need to rewrite their tour description!
“Uncrowded” Cala Sant Francesc
I enjoyed wandering around the Marimurtra Botanical Garden and admiring its more than four thousand plant species. However, my highlight of the day trip was the hilltop Garden’s coastal views. The Garden provides the most spectacular views of Costa Brava’s beautiful small coves, crystal clear waters, and the rugged coastline of the Mediterranean Sea.
The Mediterranean Sea framed by Marimurtra Botanical Garden
Explore Catalunya’s detailed description for The Costa Brava tour states: “After leaving the beach and gardens, we will continue up to the old castle ruins for another amazing view of the coast.” Unfortunately, this did not occur, leaving me disappointed, as I would have loved to see more of Costa Brava’s coastline.
Lunch was delicious. I had a great salad with lettuce, brie cheese, walnuts, and fruits for my mains. Since I am not fond of ice cream, I had the Mel i Moto – a traditional Catalan dessert of Catalan cheese with honey. It was an interesting dessert but not unpleasant, and I could have had another bowl with more honey. Since arriving home, I have tried making this dessert with ricotta cheese, but it doesn’t taste the same (not as good).
My impression of Tossa de Mar is that of a very crowded tourist town, one I would typically avoid. However, I did enjoy the views from the lighthouse and fortifications of Costa Brava’s dramatic coastline.
Costa Brava’s rugged coastline at Tessa de Mar
Overall, the day trip to Costa Brava was long but enjoyable, and I recommend it.
Explore Catalunya promotes this day trip as a journey back to the medieval age, visiting the beautifully preserved villages of Besalu and Tavertet and enjoying free time in Rupit village.
The tour as I experienced it:
Leaving Barcelona at 8.30 am, we arrived in Besalu, our first medieval village, at about 10.00 am. Upon arrival, we (there were five guests on the tour) were given 20 minutes for a coffee and a bite to eat. We then headed across Besalu’s most significant feature – its 12th-century Romanesque bridge over the Fluvia River with its seven arches and a fortified gateway at its midpoint. Having crossed the bridge, we immediately entered Besalu’s medieval old town, where our Explore Catalunya driver-guide provided a 20-minute guided familiarisation walking tour around the Old Town.
The medieval town of Besalu and its Romanesque bridge.
After the guided walking tour, we had one hour to explore Besalu independently.
Founded in 878 AD, Besalu is an enchanting medieval town in the foothills of the southeastern section of the Pyrenees. It is one of Spain’s most beautiful and best-preserved medieval towns and was declared a historic and artistic site of national importance in 1966.
Today, Besalu has a population of 2,512 (2023) living there permanently.
Besalu is home to an 11th-century church and hospital, a 12th-century monastery, the remains of a medieval castle, and an ancient Jewish Quarter, where you will find the ruins of a medieval synagogue and a 12th-century Mikvka (Jewish ritual bathhouse).
Besalu’s old town is built entirely from sandstone, giving the village a golden, warm hue. Cafes fill the pretty squares, and narrow cobblestone streets wind through the village. As to be expected, souvenir shops line the streets. However, glancing into shops as I walked past them made me think they were of a better quality than most you see.
A narrow cobblestone street leads to a small square
10th-century Iglesia Sant Vicenc – the oldest church in Besalu
Besalu’s main square, Placa de la Llibertat, is in the centre of the old town and a great place to sit with a drink or ice cream and people-watch.
Cafes and restaurants line Besalu’s main square
I found the wooden chairs attached to the Old Town’s stone walls a thought-provoking addition to Besalu’s medieval architecture. However, I never got an answer about the reason for this art installation.
After about an hour’s drive from Besalu and up narrow, winding roads into the Pyrenees, we arrived at the medieval village of Rupit. A river, forest, waterfalls, and caves surround the village, which is 822 metres above sea level in a valley adjacent to the Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park.
Rupit was in stark contrast to Besalu. Instead of the pale stone buildings that give Besalu an air of warmth, all the houses in Rupit are built with basalt stone, giving the village a dark, forbidding appearance.
The medieval village of Rupert, with houses built in basalt
Rupit is smaller than Besalu, with about 160 permanent residents and just two main streets. The United Nations World Tourism Organisation (UNWTO) has described it as “one of the jewels of Catalonia in Spain.”
Rupit has received two awards in recent years:
UNWTO named it ‘Best Tourism Villages 2022’ for its “development of sustainable and responsible tourism.”
It has been awarded ‘European Charming Villages’ by the COSME Initiative of the European Union.
Before arriving in Rupit, our driver-guide gave us the option of free time to explore the village or to join him at a local restaurant for a set menu Catalonian lunch. I opted for lunch with three other guests and our driver-guide – a big mistake! Don’t get me wrong, the three-course lunch was delicious and a leisurely affair, but it took all our allocated two hours of free time in Rupit.
Two hours for lunch in Spain is the norm, but we had no time to explore the village. After several guests voiced their disappointment, our driver-guide gave us ten minutes to explore Rupit.
A street in Rupit
Rupit, where many streets are stairs
Our final stop before heading back to Barcelona was at a clifftop lookout in the tiny village of Tavertet, overlooking the valley below and the Guilleries mountain range. From this viewpoint, we could see the large Sau Reservoir, villages, and the odd lone house in the valley below.
View of the valley and mountain range from Tavertet lookout
My tour review / final thoughts:
Besalu:
Grabbing a takeaway coffee instead of sitting down for 20 minutes would have been a better option, allowing more time for the guided walk around Besalu.
I would have liked more time to explore Besalu at a relaxed pace rather than rushing from street to street to see as much as possible and take as many photos as possible.
According to the detailed description on Explore Catalunya’s website, the Medieval Villages tour includes “visit a restored mikveh (an old Jewish bath from the 12th century), and see the remains of a medieval synagogue”. Neither of these happened.
We were discouraged from seeing the old Jewish bath with an explanation that to do so was too hard. We would have to walk back over the bridge (at this point, we were inside the walled town) to the tourist office, get the key for the bath, and then take the key back to the tourist office once having seen the bath. There was also an admission fee involved.
I got the distinct impression that our guide just couldn’t be bothered taking us to visit the restored mikvah and ruins of the medieval synagogue. I found this extremely disappointing as I have a strong interest in Jewish history.
Castellfollit de la Roca:
On the drive to Rupit, our driver-guide pointed to Castellfollit de la Roca village, perched on the edge of a basalt precipice. I have seen several photos of Castellfollit de la Roca on Instagram and have always been in awe of its precarious location. I was okay with not exploring the village but felt incredibly disappointed that we drove straight past and didn’t pull off the road for a photo stop.
Rupit:
Opting to have lunch in a restaurant in Rupit was a missed opportunity to explore the village. It was a shame that our driver-guide failed to advise us that lunch in the restaurant would take up all our free time in Rupit. Had he done so, I would have grabbed something to eat at the bakery and used the two hours to explore the village and walk along the river to discover its pools and waterfalls.
Tavertet:
Explore Catalunya’s detailed description for this tour states that a visit is made to Tavertet village. “With your guide, visit this charming village, which was declared a National Property of Cultural Interest due to its 48 preserved houses from the 17th and 18th centuries. Learn interesting facts about this village as you admire the houses and the 11th-century Romanesque Church of Sant Cristofol.” However, we did not visit Tavertet; we merely drove straight through to the viewpoint on the cliff edge of the village for a panoramic view of the valley below. It was a shame we did not go into Tavertet, as I was looking forward to seeing the houses.
Explore Catalunya advertises that The Small Group Medieval Villages Day Trip from Barcelona lasts 11 hours. However, on this day, it was only ten hours. The additional hour would have allowed the advertised visit to Tavertet village or more time in Besalu.
Final thoughts:
Besalu is a delightful village worth visiting. However, I would have found a full day in Besalu to explore all its nooks and crannies of more value.
Ten minutes to explore Rupit and a short walk along one street to the restaurant was not enough time to make an informed comment on Rupit. However, what I did see had me wanting more.
I cannot comment on Tavertet, as we only drove quickly through the village to the lookout.
I enjoyed the Medieval Villages Day Trip, but I suspect the enjoyment was more about getting out of Barcelona for the day than the trip itself. In truth, I ended the day feeling disappointed and cheated.
Explore Catalunya promotes this day trip as “The only day tour from Barcelona that takes groups into the Pyrenees Mountains”.
There were five guests on this day trip (including myself) and our driver-guide, Steven. The tour’s destination was Vall de Nuria (Nuria’s Valley) in the Pyrenees via Vic and Queralbs.
The tour as I experienced it:
Our departure from Barcelona at 8.30 am had us arriving in Vic (pronounced Bic) about an hour later.
Vic is about 69 kilometres north of Barcelona on the Meder River. It is an ancient city, dating back to the Ausetan Iberians before Roman occupation in the 1st century AD, with an interesting and picturesque medieval Old Town.
On a 20-minute guided walking tour around the Old Town, we passed through several small pretty squares with cafes preparing for the day.
A bicycle adds a touch of romance to a courtyard cafe.
A pretty square makes an ideal spot for a cafe.
The guided walking tour ended in Cathedral Square at the Roman Catholic cathedral, Catedral de Sant Pere Apostol (Cathedral of Saint Peter the Apostle).
I found the interior of Vic’s Sant Pere Cathedral to be unlike anything I had seen previously. Huge, almost monochromatic canvases painted by Joseph Maria Sert representing the mystery of redemption cover the walls, making the interior dark and gloomy – an unexpected contrast to the cathedral’s light-coloured stone exterior. It wasn’t a place I wanted to linger! However, your reaction may be very different.
Vic’s Sant Pere Cathedral
Joseph Maria Sert painting inside Sant Pere Cathedral
Explore Catalunya’s visits to Vic coincide with traditional market days, which take place on Tuesdays and Saturdays in the arched main square (one of the biggest in Spain). Stalls of every sort filled the square.
Our half-hour of free time had me scouring the market stalls and nearby shops for something suitable for a takeaway lunch. Steven advised us that the food at Vall de Nuria’s café was not the best and recommended that we buy lunch in Vic.
From Vic, we drove up into the Pyrenees to the small village of Queralbs, which sits at an altitude of 1,236 metres. It is the last vehicle-accessible village on the way up to Vall de Nuria (Nuria’s Valley), a beautiful valley in the eastern Pyrenees. The final six kilometres from Queralbs to Vall de Nuria must be travelled by rack railway – a 20-minute journey to an altitude of 1,964 metres. But first, there was a guided walking tour through Queralbs.
Queralbs is an ancient village dating back to 833 AD. With its traditionally built stone houses perched on the side of the mountain, “this impossibly quaint, picture postcard beautiful hamlet is one of the most memorable parts of the day” (Explore Catalunya). I couldn’t agree more! The village was picture-perfect.
The village of Queralbs in the Pyrenees.
The traditional stone houses of Queralbs.
The walking tour ended at the Romanesque Esglesia de Sant Jaume (Church of Saint James) – one of Spain’s oldest surviving Romanesque churches.
Queralbs’ Romanesque St James Church.
Time to catch the rack railway train to Vall de Nuria!
Vall de Nuria is a glacial valley in the eastern Pyrenees, 120 kilometres from Barcelona, 1,964 metres above sea level, and surrounded by mountains nearly 3,000 metres high. It is remote and only accessible by rack railway. The ski resort and Nuria Lake dominate the valley, offering spectacular mountain landscapes, winter skiing, and summer hiking trails.
Vall de Nuria viewed from the top of the cable car run.
Vall de Nuria landscape with a view of the lake and resort.
With two hours to explore the valley before catching the train back down the mountain, I decided to hike one of the many trails in the hills around the valley. These trails range from easy to challenging.
Given my limited time, I chose an easy trail, the Way of the Crosses. I was told it would take 50 minutes to walk, but I knew it would take longer as I would keep stopping to take photos and admire the breathtaking views. The trail gets its name from the Christian Way of the Cross tradition, with twelve crosses along the way. I made the hike easier on myself by walking down the mountain rather than up. I did this by taking the cable car to the summit, bringing me to an altitude of 2,170 metres. Consequently, I passed the crosses in reverse – from twelve to one.
Way of the Crosses – Station 6.
Way of the Crosses – Station 5.
We missed our scheduled train back down the mountain to Queralbs because one couple failed to turn up at the meeting point even though Steven’s instructions were clear. No one knew where they were. I could tell Steven was worried, but he handled it calmly. Eventually, Steven decided we would catch the next train and leave the unreliable couple to fend for themselves. Surprise, surprise! When we arrived back at Queralbs Rack Railway Station (45 minutes late), our errant couple were waiting for us. They had decided to forego the meeting point and catch the train on their own.
From about halfway down the Stations of the Cross trail, the sky was getting blacker and blacker. By the time I reached the bottom, thunder was rolling around the mountains.
Vall de Nuria – a storm rolls inover the Pyrenees
Just as we were about to board our train back down the mountain, the heavens opened, and heavy rain and hail bucketed down. As we travelled the six kilometres from Vall de Nuria to Queralbs, the rain got heavier and heavier. Running from the train to the station building had us soaked to the skin, and I mean soaked. Water was pouring off me, off my hair and my clothes.
Our misfortunes did not end with a missing couple and soaking rain. Shortly after leaving Queralbs for our drive down the mountain, we came to a grinding halt. Traffic wasn’t going anywhere! The river beside the road was a raging torrent, so I thought maybe the road was flooded. After about 20-30 minutes, the male of our errant couple went to investigate what was happening up ahead – to make up for their “misunderstanding” about the meeting point. He told us there was a mudslide with rocks over the road and water pouring down the mountain. People were staring at this catastrophe, immobile. But our errant male (sorry, I will always think of him as such) started moving the rocks, and others helped. We were moving again! Meanwhile, it was sunny and 30 degrees Celsius in Barcelona!
My tour review / final thoughts:
In Vic, I struggled, wasting a lot of time trying to find suitable food for a takeaway lunch. I couldn’t even find a small supermarket in the streets around the main square. I found a bakery that looked promising, but the queue was too long to wait for service. I was conscious about arriving back at the meeting place on time. Had I known in advance about the recommendation to purchase a takeaway lunch, I would have brought food with me. In hindsight, I am sorry I didn’t risk the cafe at Vall de Nuria because the lentil salad I bought in Vic for lunch was pretty ordinary.
Explore Catalunya advertises the tour as 11 hours in duration. However, the tour was 11 hours only because we were late leaving Vall de Nuria back to Queralbs and encountered a mudslide driving down the mountain. I felt cheated because I would have loved more time on the mountain. The additional hour would have allowed me time to walk around the lake, visit the sanctuary, or have a cup of coffee.
I thoroughly enjoyed this day trip to the Pyrenees Mountains. What an adventure!
Don’t get me wrong; I have enjoyed all my day trips with Explore Catalunya, but this one seemed a bit more special. Perhaps it was the breathtaking landscape of the Pyrenees or just being in the mountains? Perhaps it was the enchanting village of Queralbs or the experience of the Rack Railway? Perhaps it was the adventure of getting soaking wet from a massive storm or driving through a mudslide over the road? Even though all the tours were very different and memorable, this day trip to the Pyrenees was special. It was not your ‘usual’ sightseeing tour and, for the most part, was the more relaxed.
A word on booking tours with Explore Catalunya:
I booked all my tours with Explore Catalunya in person, visiting their office in Barcelona at Carrer Palau de la Musica, 1. When booking in person, I received a €10,00 senior discount on each tour. However, when visiting Explore Catalunya’s website, I found nowhere that a senior discount can be applied when booking a tour.
As we conclude our journey through these five memorable day trips from Barcelona, I hope the experiences I shared have inspired you to venture beyond the city’s boundaries and explore the wonders just a short distance away.
Barcelona is a gateway to extraordinary adventures, allowing you to immerse yourself in captivating landscapes, delve into rich history, and be inspired by world-renowned art. The day trips I took from Barcelona left me with a lifetime of memories.
So, if you find yourself in Barcelona, let these day trips be your guide to exploring the richness that lies beyond the city’s borders, for Catalonia is a region of endless discovery. Allow yourself to be swept away by the allure of Montserrat, the coastal beauty of Costa Brava, the timeless appeal of medieval villages, the majesty of the Pyrenees, and the surreal world of Salvador Dali.
Thank you for joining me on this unforgettable journey through Catalonia’s diverse landscapes and cultural treasures. Until next time, here’s to the endless horizons of discovery and the timeless magic of travel!
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
Have you found this review of day trip tours from Barcelona a helpful resource? Which would be a day trip not to be missed? I love hearing from you. Please leave a comment below.
I look forward to reading and responding to your comments on which day trips from Barcelona you might include on your next holiday to Spain that this post has inspired.
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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
Experience One of Australia’s Most Iconic Road Trips Driving Victoria’s Great Ocean Road. The Great Ocean Road is Australia’s most famous coastal drive and one of the best road…
Experience One of Australia’s Most Iconic Road Trips Driving Victoria’s Great Ocean Road.
The Great Ocean Road is Australia’s most famous coastal drive and one of the best road trips in the world. Famed for its stunning scenery, what better way to show you the natural phenomena, incredible wild views, and beauty of the Great Ocean Road than through the photographs I took on a photo tour road trip. Enjoy!
Victoria’s Great Ocean Road was placed on the Australian National Heritage list in April 2011 as a place of outstanding national heritage significance. The 242-kilometre Great Ocean Road follows the stunning coastline of Victoria’s southwest from Torquay to Allansford. The road winds along clifftops beside breathtaking headlands, down onto the edge of beaches, across river estuaries and through rainforests, offering ever-changing diverse landscapes and views of Bass Strait and the Southern Ocean.
The Great Ocean Road was built by returned soldiers between 1919 and 1932 and dedicated to soldiers killed during World War l. The road is the world’s largest war memorial.
To take a road trip along the Great Ocean Road is a drive I have wanted to do for many years, but something always got in the way. So, when I came across the Great Ocean Road Photo Tour with Mark Gray Photography, I could think of no better way to combine my desire to drive the Great Ocean Road and my passion for travel photography.
As a keen amateur photographer, I often seek out photography tours around the world. I firmly believe I can never stop learning and what better way to learn and master landscape photography than out of the classroom with a professional photographer by your side guiding you along the way.
Mark Gray Photography’s tours are suitable for amateur to semi-professional photographers and are limited to 6-8 participants, ensuring everyone gets plenty of individual tuition at each location from the accompanying professional and experienced photographer. The Great Ocean Road Photo Tour locations, accommodation, and meals were well researched by Mark Gray Photography, with appropriate scheduling across the five days.
Great Ocean Road Photo Tour route
Great Ocean Road photo tour route from Melbourne return (Google Maps)
The pickup point for our Great Ocean Road Photo Tour was in Melbourne outside St Paul’s Cathedral, near Flinders Street Railway Station.
Our route over the five days took us along the Great Ocean Road through the Victorian towns of Geelong, Torquay (the start of the Great Ocean Road), Anglesea, Lorne, Apollo Bay, Port Campbell, Allansford (the end of the Great Ocean Road), Warnambool, and on to Port Fairy (our final stop). The return trip to Melbourne from Port Fair on day five, after a sunrise shoot, breakfast, and photo critiquing session, was via Colac, where we stopped for lunch.
The photos below are shown in the order in which they were seen and taken, giving a visual journey along the spectacular Great Ocean Road.
Lower Kalimna Falls, Great Otway National Park
Leaving from Sheoak Picnic Area near Lorne in the Great Otway National Park, the six-kilometre return walking track to Lower Kalimna Falls through the creek valley follows the old trolley way used many years ago for hauling timber to Lorne.
Lorne Suspension Bridge
The Lorne Suspension Bridge is a timber footbridge over the Erskine River near its mouth. An iconic landmark of Lorne, the bridge was completed in 1937.
Redwoods of the Otway Ranges
Beech Forest in the Great Otway National Park is home to a thriving small, sheltered grove of Coastal Redwoods – the world’s tallest tree species. Towering on the river flat at Aire Valley Plantation, these redwoods were planted in 1936 by Victorian foresters for experimental purposes. They were never cut down, and although still in their infancy growth phase, they now stand about 60 metres high. Even though ‘babies’, their height as they reach for the sky still left me in awe of the sight.
It was very peaceful walking through the grove as I listened to the rippling of the water from the river flowing beside the grove of redwoods.
There is a picnic area across the road from the redwoods.
Hopetoun Falls, Great Otway National Park
Deemed by some as the most beautiful waterfall in Victoria, Hopetoun Falls in Beech Forest plummets 30 metres into the Aire River. Take in the view from the upper platform or descend around 200 stairs to the bottom of the falls.
The Twelve Apostles, Port Campbell National Park
The setting sun turns the ocean pink at the Twelve Apostles
The rising sun is reflected on the limestone stacks of the Twelve Apostles
The Twelve Apostles is one of Australia’s iconic landmarks and the most photographed along the Great Ocean Road.
The Twelve Apostles is a collection of limestone stacks off the shore of Port Campbell National Park, formed by erosion over millions of years. The harsh and extreme weather conditions from the Southern Ocean along Victoria’s coast gradually erode the soft limestone to form caves in the cliffs, which become arches that eventually collapse, leaving rock stacks. Just as the winds and rough waves create the stacks, they also destroy them.
Despite the name, there were never twelve rock stacks, only ever nine. The nine became seven (according to Parks Victoria) after one collapsed in 2005 and another in 2009.
The Twelve Apostles was originally known as Sow and Pigs, with Muttonbird Island being the sow and the stacks being the pigs. The name change was solely due to marketing purposes, as the ‘Twelve Apostles’ had a better ring to it.
London Bridge, Port Campbell National Park
The arch of London Bridge was once connected to the mainland by a natural span that people could walk across, hence the name. The span collapsed on 15th January 1990, disconnecting the arch from the mainland forever. At the time of the collapse, two tourists were stranded on top of the arch and had to be rescued by helicopter. No one was injured in the event.
The Grotto, Port Campbell National Park
The Grotto, nine kilometres west of Port Campbell, is a cave, sinkhole, and archway all in one. The Grotto is a natural phenomenon formed over millions of years of crashing waves and high winds eroding the rocks, resulting in a caved sinkhole within the limestone cliffs.
You can reach the bottom via a wooden staircase that winds down the cliff face from the viewing platform at the top.
Sandy Cove, Bay of Islands Coastal Park
Characterised by offshore limestone rock stacks, Sandy Cove is a hidden gem along the Great Ocean Road.
Moyne River boat moorings, Port Fairy
Port Fairy is a historic fishing town located on the Moyne River.
Griffith Island Lighthouse, Port Fairy
Sunset shoot of Griffith Island lighthouse
Griffith Island Lighthouse is situated at the end of a 400-metre walk along the causeway from Martin’s Point in the historic town of Port Fairy. It was built in 1859 and saw the last lighthouse keeper in the 1950s when the light, visible over 19 kilometres out to sea, was automated. The lighthouse is still fully operational, guiding ships into the Moyne River.
Port Fairy groynes
Sunrise shoot of the timber groynes at East Beach, Port Fairy
Groynes are structures (usually made of wood, concrete, or stone) built out into the sea from a beach to control erosion and drifting. Port Fairy’s groynes were placed at the southern end of the East Beach to stabilise the sand that had been eroding.
Tip: Fingerless gloves would be a good investment for sunrise shoots.
Where we stayed
I recommend the accommodation chosen by Mark Gray Photography on our Great Ocean Road Photo Tour.
On our five days / four nights trip, we stayed one night in Apollo Bay, two nights in Port Campbell, and one night in Port Fairy.
Seafarers Getaway, Apollo Bay, is situated opposite a private beach with all accommodation offering uninterrupted beach and coastal views. I had a well-equipped Beach Studio Unit with a furnished front deck and spectacular views of the breaking waves on the sand. The only downsides were six wall pegs in place of a wardrobe – okay for one night but would be annoying if staying longer – and the rug-less tile floors, which are great in summer but cold on the feet in winter.
Southern Ocean Villas, Port Campbell, is luxury accommodation on the edge of Port Campbell National Park and only a five-minute drive to the Twelve Apostles. Each villa is fully self-contained with two or three bedrooms, an open-plan kitchen and lounge/dining area, laundry, and an outdoor deck with table and chairs. While the bedrooms were dark (not an issue), the living area was light and airy.
Victoria Apartments, Port Fairy, is in the heart of the township of Port Fairy. I stayed in a one-bedroom suite, but other accommodation types are available. The suite’s living area was open planned, but the kitchenette was tiny. However, its winning features were a separate bedroom and a private courtyard. The accommodation was small and a bit cramped but adequate for a short stay for one person.
The 5-day Great Ocean Road Photo Tour with Mark Gray Photography was not a holiday but a dedicated photography workshop and is advertised as such. Our days were long and busy, often starting at sunrise, with little time to relax. But it was a unique way to visit the Great Ocean Road’s fantastic attractions and certainly met my long-term desire to ‘see’ the Great Ocean Road. Furthermore, I learned so much about my camera and landscape photography and came away with photos I am proud of.
You don’t have to be a photographer to appreciate the spectacular scenery and landscapes that the Great Ocean Road offers up at every turn. Take your time to discover and explore this most iconic Australian road trip along Victoria’s rugged southern coastline.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
Old Beechworth Gaol – A Horrible History Tour. The Old Beechworth Gaol guided tour is much more than a walk through a heritage-listed building. It is the perfect way…
Old Beechworth Gaol – A Horrible History Tour.
The Old Beechworth Gaol guided tour is much more than a walk through a heritage-listed building. It is the perfect way to explore the gaol and have history come alive. Beechworth Gaol is a time capsule that offers an authentic and educational look into the past. Visit the cells that housed notorious bushrangers, learn about convict life, and uncover some of the gaol’s darker history. Step inside and go back in time with an expert guide.
Beechworth is North East Victoria’s best-preserved gold rush town, leaving a legacy of colonial architecture that boasts 32 heritage-listed buildings. Old Beechworth Gaol is one of those buildings, and it is heritage-listed by the National Trust for its historical, architectural, and archeological significance to the state of Victoria.
Getting there
A short drive from Albury (45 kilometres), Beechworth is in my backyard.
For those living further afield, Beechworth is a 3-hour drive northeast of Melbourne (284 kilometres), 4 hours southwest of Canberra (391 kilometres), and about 6 hours southwest from Sydney (593 kilometres).
Don’t have a car? From Melbourne, Canberra, and Sydney, take a train to Wangaratta and then the bus to Beechworth on Wangaratta Coachlines.
Old Beechworth Gaol is located on the corner of Williams Street and Ford Street, Beechworth.
Tours of Old Beechworth Gaol operate daily at 11.00 am and 1.00 pm and take about one hour. You can purchase your guided tour tickets at the Old Beechworth Gaol Cafe located in the gaol wall near the main gates. Alternatively, you can book your tickets in advance online. Please check their Facebook page, The Old Beechworth Gaol, for updates on tours.
Our guided tour of old Beechworth Gaol started with a double vaccination status check. Walking through the main gates, the courtyard provided a venue for Daniel, our tour guide, to give us an overview of the history of Beechworth gaol.
Taking approximately six years to build, Beechworth Gaol was opened in 1864 and initially housed men and women.
The outer stone walls are granite.
The razor wire on top of the gaol’s walls replaced the original barbed wire.
The current iron gates replaced the original wooden gates in 1879 when there was a suspected prison outbreak.
Beechworth Gaol was a medium-security prison.
The prison has a history spanning 140 years, closing in 2004.
From the courtyard, our tour took us to the hard labour yard where male prisoners were put to work crushing granite rocks into gravel for roads and footpaths. The guards in the towers overseeing the hard labour yard worked 12-hour shifts.
The mural in the hard labour yard painted by the inmate, Woodsie
Moving into the cell blocks was like entering a time capsule, where time has stood still since the prison’s closure in 2004. The feeling of being locked in time was confirmed by Daniel when he advised the cells have not been touched since 2004.
A cell on old Beechworth Gaol – a time capsule
In the men’s cellblock, the gallows with the hangman’s noose was visible on death row – the top floor of the men’s cellblock. Eight men were executed in Beechworth Gaol between 1865 and 1881, and they are buried in unmarked graves in the exercise yard against the western wall.
The gallows and hangman’s noose on death row in the men’s cellblock
Daniel regaled us with stories of Ned Kelly’s misadventures (murder, assault, theft, and armed robbery) that landed him in Beechworth Gaol. Daniel was an entertaining storyteller. See below for details of who was Ned Kelly and his connection to Beechworth Gaol.
Effigies of Ned Kelly and the Kelly gang
In the women’s cellblock, cell 10 was the designated mother’s cell with its two doors. One door (the front door) led into the cellblock, and a guard could open the back door to allow the mother to let her children outside to play. Daniel explained that the children were not prisoners but were locked up with their mother.
Cell 10 – the mother’s cell with its double doors
At the end of the women’s cellblock is the solitary confinement cell where a prisoner was locked in the cell 23 hours a day. The prisoner was allowed outside in a caged area for one hour a day.
The prisoner solitary confinement exercise cage
Our final tour stop was the exercise yard, the burial site of the executed men. An empty swimming pool dominates this lawned area.
Old Beechworth Gaol and the Ned Kelly connection
Ned Kelly was Australia’s most notorious bushranger and known for wearing a suit of iron armour during his final shootout with police. He was immortalised in the 1970 Ned Kelly movie starring Mick Jagger in the title role.
For those not familiar with Australian colonial history, escaped convicts who used the bush to hide from authorities were the original bushrangers. By the 1820s, the term had evolved to refer to those who took up armed robbery as a way of life, using the bush as their base.
Ned Kelly first became intimately acquainted with the inside of Beechworth Gaol at the age of about 13. Over the ensuing years, he became more familiar with the gaol on at least two other occasions.
Daniel was a wealth of information about Ned Kelly and his time spent in Beechworth Gaol. He held our undivided attention when telling of Ned’s imprisonment for lewd behaviour and assault when he was 16 years old. According to Daniel, Ned sent a package to a lady containing a man’s testicles and later assaulted her husband. There is great truth in the story as Ned did indeed send testicles to the lady. However, depending on your resource will determine the nature of the testicles. A man’s testicles, a calf’s testicles, two calves’ testicles – believe what you will. I suspect the story has grown legs.
For the lewd behaviour and assault crimes, Ned Kelly received 6 or 8 months (once again, depending on your resource) imprisonment in Beechworth Gaol.
Time for lunch
Whether you do the old Beechworth Gaol guided tour in the morning or afternoon, you must eat in Beechworth.
You are spoiled for choice for places to eat in Beechworth. I have eaten at several places and never had a bad meal.
On the day of my old Beechworth Goal tour, I ate at the Beechworth Pantry Gourmet Delicatessen & Coffee Shop on Ford Street. I ordered the Asparagus, Leek and Cheese Quiche with apple and Pear Salad and couldn’t resist the Hazelnut Meringue with Berries and Cream. I left the cafe very satisfied and with bars of fruit nougat in hand for later enjoyment.
My final review
If you plan to visit Beechworth, do yourself a favour and take a step back in time with a guided tour of old Beechworth Gaol. The tour provides all ages with an authentic and educational experience in which local, expert guides bring a dark history to life. It is a unique experience not to be missed and highly recommended.
The female cellblock in old Beechworth gaol
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
Please leave a comment below to share your thoughts. The only other prison tour I have taken was to Alcatraz when I was visiting San Francisco. Where have you taken a prison tour?
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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip, and always follow government advice.