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PORT ARTHUR AND SARAH ISLAND: Tasmania’s Two Harshest Convict Settlements

Port Arthur and Sarah Island, Tasmania’s Brutal Penal Colonies, Defined the Harsh Extremes of British Punishment. Visiting Both Sites is a Journey into Australia’s Darkest Colonial History and an Experience…

Port Arthur and Sarah Island, Tasmania’s Brutal Penal Colonies, Defined the Harsh Extremes of British Punishment. Visiting Both Sites is a Journey into Australia’s Darkest Colonial History and an Experience You Won’t Forget Anytime Soon.

 

Two remote locations in Tasmania once struck fear into the hearts of transported convicts. One was situated on a narrow peninsula guarded by water, soldiers, and dogs, while the other lay isolated in a vast harbour surrounded by dense wilderness. For prisoners sent to these settlements, life involved relentless labour, harsh punishment, and little hope of escape. Today, visitors can explore the haunting remains of these infamous penal settlements at Port Arthur Historic Site and Sarah Island. Together, they reveal some of the darkest chapters of Australia’s convict history.

 

Tasmania is home to some of Australia’s most formidable convict sites. Still, none are more notorious than Port Arthur on the Tasman Peninsula and Sarah Island on the remote west coast. Both places were established as destinations for convicts deemed beyond reform, and both have come to represent the brutality of Australia’s convict past.

I visited both Port Arthur and Sarah Island. Although they are separated by distance and share a reputation as the country’s two harshest penal establishments, the experiences of each couldn’t be more different. One is set in a peaceful coastal bay, carefully preserved and thoughtfully interpreted. The other lies isolated in the wild waters of Macquarie Harbour, where the rainforest and silence are slowly reclaiming the ruins.

Visiting these two sites reveals more than historical facts. It exposes a history of systematic cruelty intended to break even the most defiant prisoners. In this post, I explore the histories of Port Arthur and Sarah Island, what life was like for the convicts imprisoned there, and why seeing them both offers a powerful and sobering insight into Australia’s convict past.

Convict Transportation to Tasmania

Between 1788 and 1868, over 162,000 British and Irish convicts were transported to Australia as punishment, mostly for theft, to relieve overcrowded prisons and to support the settlement of the new territory. Around 73,000 to 76,000 convicts were sent to Van Diemen’s Land (now Tasmania), where they provided labour for a growing settlement.

Most convicts worked as forced labourers for free settlers or on government infrastructure projects, such as roads, bridges, and public buildings. However, those who reoffended or resisted authority could be sent to harsher punishment settlements. These secondary penal establishments were designed to break even the most defiant prisoners. Two of the harshest were Port Arthur and Sarah Island.

Port Arthur vs Sarah Island: A Quick Overview

At a glance, Port Arthur and Sarah Island might seem similar: both are historic convict settlements, UNESCO-listed sites, and key stops for those interested in Tasmania’s history. However, in reality, the visitor experience is markedly different.

Port Arthur is expansive, accessible, and highly interpreted. Visitors move along well-marked paths, through restored buildings and curated ruins, supported by signage, audio guides, and guided tours.

Sarah Island, by contrast, feels raw and unresolved, with an unsettling, brooding atmosphere. There are no reconstructed buildings and little interpretation on the island itself. The ruins sit quietly among dense vegetation, and the island’s story must be pieced together through imagination and the tales told by tour guides.

Sarah Island: Hell on Earth

Getting to Sarah Island

Sarah Island lies in the middle of Macquarie Harbour, at the mouth of the Gordon River on Tasmania’s remote west coast. It can only be visited by boat from the small town of Strahan, as it is not accessible by land. I visited Sarah Island on a guided tour with World Heritage Cruises.

As Strahan faded into the distance and the harbour widened, it was easy to see why Sarah Island was chosen as a penal settlement. Distance, water, and wilderness combine to create a sense of isolation that no walls could ever replicate.

Sarah Island sits in an isolated position in Macquarie Harbour.

 

A punishment within a punishment

Sarah Island, Tasmania’s oldest convict settlement, operated from 1822 to 1833 and was the most feared place of banishment for Australian convicts. It was intended as a harsh punishment for re-offending convicts who committed further crimes after arriving in the Australian colonies. Its inmates were regarded as the most hardened, troublesome, and dangerous within the transportation system – the worst of the worst. To be assigned to Sarah Island was to be told, in the clearest possible terms, that the authorities had given up on you.

Meant to strike fear into the hearts of convicts and described as ‘Hell on Earth’, the conditions lived up to that label. Convicts cut down Huon pine in the surrounding rainforest and hauled it back to the island’s shipyard, working in freezing water for hours on end. Huon pine was highly prized for shipbuilding, and Sarah Island became Australia’s most productive shipyard of its era. But labour was harsh, rations were minimal, and floggings were relentless. Even by the punishing standards of the time, Sarah Island’s commandants were known for their brutality.

Situated on the far western edge of today’s Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, with its seemingly impenetrable mountainous wilderness, the authorities believed escape from Sarah Island was impossible. They were wrong!

The information board listing convicts’ escape attempts from Sarah Island.

 

A short play, ‘The Ship That Never Was’, performed every evening for the past 28 years for visitors in Strahan, recounts the remarkable 1834 escape of ten convicts who hijacked the brig the Frederick and sailed it to Chile, arriving six weeks later. They were captured two years later by the British Navy and sent back to Hobart. The play’s title comes from the escapees’ argument at trial for piracy – that they hadn’t committed piracy because the Frederick had not been officially launched when they stole it, and therefore was not a legal ship. They were ultimately found guilty of piracy – a hanging offence – but not sentenced to death. They were transported to the notorious Norfolk Island penal settlement.

What remains of Sarah Island

Little remains of the original settlement, except for scattered foundations and ruins of the military barracks, bakehouse oven, solitary confinement gaol, and the commandant’s house. The island feels abandoned, with an eerie atmosphere I can only attribute to the ‘ghosts’ of the past.

The guide’s dramatic stories of convicts, punishments, and daring escapes, laced with a necessary interpretation of what we were seeing, were the only thing that gave any depth to the site’s history.

Standing among the remnants of Sarah Island’s convict settlement, I found it impossible to reconcile the wild beauty of the harbour surrounding the island and the lush rainforest encroaching on it with the cruelty that once occurred here.

Sarah Island was ultimately closed in 1833 because its remote location made supplying the settlement difficult and expensive. Its convicts were transferred directly to Port Arthur.

Port Arthur: A Harsh Penal Settlement on the Tasman Peninsula

Overview of Port Arthur 

The Penitentiary at Port Arthur Historic Site.

 

Arriving in Port Arthur is unsettling. How can an undeniably beautiful setting of rolling, tree-covered hills, pretty gardens, and expansive lawns on the calm shores of Carnarvon Bay be home to a history of harsh punishment?

Set on the isolated Tasman Peninsula, Port Arthur operated as a penal settlement from 1830 to 1877. Surrounded by water and linked to the mainland by the narrow Eaglehawk Neck land bridge, the site was chosen for its natural security. It quickly became one of the most significant penal settlements in Australia, housing approximately 12,500 convicts over its lifetime, and one of the most ambitious penal experiments in the world.

Port Arthur is surrounded by water and tree-covered rolling hills.

 

Today, it is the best-preserved convict settlement in Australia and a UNESCO World Heritage site, just 90 minutes from Hobart.

Port Arthur is a large site spanning more than 40 hectares, with more than 30 historic buildings, extensive ruins, and beautiful grounds and gardens to explore. Allow several hours for your visit, or better still, at least one day. On a coach tour of Tasmania, I spent four hours at Port Arthur, including a guided tour, a 20-minute cruise on the bay, and some free time. I felt rushed and disappointed that I couldn’t do the site justice.

The architecture of control

Port Arthur was not just a prison but a self-contained system built entirely around control. The peninsula itself, with the narrow land bridge at Eaglehawk Neck patrolled by guards and starved dogs, served as a security measure, making escape impossible. However, during the guided walking tour, the guide shared stories of the lengths convicts went to escape from Port Arthur.

Like Sarah Island, Port Arthur was intended for repeat offenders and those who committed crimes after arriving in the colonies. Convicts performed hard labour, discipline was strict, and punishments could be severe. Floggings with the cat-o’-nine-tails, witnessed by all prisoners, were the main punishment in the prison’s early years.

Floggings stopped completely in the late 1840s due to penal reforms that resulted in the most chilling innovation known as the “separate system”. The theory held that solitude would encourage reflection and reform.

In line with this new theory, one of Port Arthur’s most notorious features was the establishment of the Separate Prison in 1848, based on a system of silence and isolation. Here, prisoners were subjected to psychological rather than physical punishment, with the intent of breaking them mentally.

Port Arthur’s Separate Prison, where psychological torture was intended to reform inmates.

 

Prisoners were kept in total silence, forbidden from speaking or communicating. Hoods were worn whenever they were outside their cells to prevent identification, and they were addressed only by number. They attended the chapel, seated in individual booths where they could see only the chaplain. The system was designed for mental subjugation, but it often drove prisoners psychotic. The psychological torture was so successful at dehumanising prisoners that an asylum was built near the Separate Prison to house those who broke under these conditions.

Visiting Port Arthur today

The entry ticket to Port Arthur Historic Site is valid for two consecutive days. It includes interactive experiences in the Visitor Centre, an introductory walking tour, guided talks across the site, a harbour cruise, a self-guided audio experience, the museum, and access to more than 30 historic buildings, ruins, restored houses, heritage gardens, and walking trails.

One of Port Arthur’s greatest strengths is the way its history is interpreted. Information boards, audio guides, and guided talks provide context that turns the ruins into stories, bringing the settlement to life.

Unlike Sarah Island, where the visitor is left to imagine what happened there, Port Arthur names individuals, explains systems, and situates punishment within the broader thinking of the time. As I wandered among the buildings and ruins, it was easy to visualise the lives of the convicts who once suffered here. A sobering experience!

Port Arthur’s Memorial Garden

The Memorial Garden commemorates the victims of Australia’s worst mass murder, which occurred at Port Arthur on 28 April 1996. It led to legislative change in the nation’s gun ownership laws.

The garden, created as a place of remembrance and quiet reflection, incorporates the remains of Port Arthur’s Broad Arrow Cafe, where 20 people were killed in the massacre, a tranquil pool, and a memorial cross inscribed with the names of the 35 visitors and staff who lost their lives.

The memorial cross in Port Arthur’s Memorial Garden.

 

Visiting Port Arthur and Sarah Island is not about ticking off historic sites but about stepping into one of the harshest chapters of Australia’s history. It’s a journey that confronts a shared past told in two very different voices. Port Arthur explains, contextualises, and names the systems that shaped convict punishment, while Sarah Island leaves much unsaid, forcing visitors to sit with discomfort and imagine the lives deliberately broken here. Together, they reveal how far the British penal system was prepared to go to maintain control and how the environment itself was used as a weapon of punishment.

What stayed with me most was the contrast between beauty and brutality. Calm waters, landscaped grounds, and lush rainforests sit uneasily alongside stories of intentional isolation, enforced silence, psychological torture, and harsh labour. Walking through these places is sobering, not only because of what happened there, but because it’s impossible to fully reconcile the serenity of their settings with the suffering they once held.

I strongly encourage visiting both sites in a single trip, rather than choosing one over the other. Sarah Island and Port Arthur are not simply variations on the same theme. They represent different philosophies of punishment, distinct moments in colonial history, and unique relationships with the Tasmanian landscape. Seen together, they offer a powerful insight into Tasmania’s convict past and the stories of those who lived it. Seeing only one gives you half the story.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2026.

 

Have you ever visited two historic sites linked by the same story, yet experienced them in completely different ways? Which one stayed with you the most, and why?

I’d love to hear your story. Share it in the comments below.

 

Like this post? Save it for later!

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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View of a rugged coastline.TASMAN NATIONAL PARK, TASMANIA: 15 Photos to Inspire Your Visit. This post shares what it’s like to visit Tasman National Park’s iconic coastal sites, including Tasman Arch, Devils Kitchen, and the Tessellated Pavement, and to cruise beneath dramatic sea cliffs to Tasman Island. Read the photo story for travel inspiration.

 

A steam locomotive with two carriages stands at a station.FROM QUEENSTOWN INTO THE WILDERNESS ABOARD TASMANIA’S HISTORIC TRAIN. Discover Tasmania’s West Coast Wilderness Railway: a historic steam train journey through rainforest, dramatic landscapes, and mining history, with premium onboard dining and immersive storytelling.

 

© Just Me Travel 2018-2026. All rights reserved.

 

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TASMAN NATIONAL PARK, TASMANIA: 15 Photos to Inspire Your Visit

Tasman National Park Explored from the Clifftop and the Sea is an Unforgettable Adventure.   There’s something compelling about standing at the edge of a coastline shaped entirely by wind…

Tasman National Park Explored from the Clifftop and the Sea is an Unforgettable Adventure.

 

There’s something compelling about standing at the edge of a coastline shaped entirely by wind and sea.

In Tasman National Park, cliffs rise sharply from the Southern Ocean, rock formations reveal centuries of erosion, and patterns etched into stone tell quiet geological stories. From the viewing platforms above Tasman Arch and Devils Kitchen to the intricate grid of the Tessellated Pavement, the landscape feels both dramatic and detailed. 

Later, stepping onto a boat at Eaglehawk Neck, the same coastline revealed itself again. This time, from below! The cliffs towered overhead, sea caves opened along the rock face, wildlife sunbaked on rocks, and Tasman Island emerged from the horizon, isolated and windswept. 

In this post, I’ll share my journey exploring Tasman National Park from both land and sea, with photos to inspire your visit.

 

About Tasman National Park

Way down south in Tasmania, about an hour and a half from Hobart, lies a wild stretch of coastline where nature’s forces have shaped the land for millennia. Tasman National Park protects the dramatic eastern and southern shores of the Tasman and Forestier peninsulas, which are joined by the narrow isthmus at Eaglehawk Neck and extend out to Tasman Island.

Map showing Tasman National Park (discovertasmanpeninsula.com.au/images/Tasman-Region-Map-2024)

 

Tasman National Park is a landscape shaped by wind, water, and time. It is renowned for its dramatic, 300-metre-high dolerite sea cliffs (the highest in Australia), unique coastal rock formations, and the iconic Three Capes Track. The park features a wild, rugged landscape with attractions such as the Tessellated Pavement, Tasman Arch, and the Totem Pole, along with diverse wildlife and pristine beaches.

This is a place where adventure awaits at every turn. Whether you’re gazing from the clifftops or cruising along the rugged shoreline, Tasman National Park is best experienced from both land and sea.

You must have a valid pass to enter any national park in Tasmania. These include daily, annual, and 2-year passes.

From the Clifftops: Iconic Coastal Formations

From the clifftops, formations such as Tasman Arch and Devils Kitchen dominate the horizon, while the Tessellated Pavement draws the eye down to intricate patterns carved by nature.

Tasman Arch

An bridge-like rock formation on the cliff coastline.

A clifftop view of the iconic Tasman Arch.

 

Just a short walk from a dedicated car park, Tasman Arch is a natural rock bridge carved by centuries of relentless wave action. With a ceiling rising more than 50 metres above the roaring Southern Ocean, it is the remnant roof of a collapsed sea cave and tunnel system, offering dramatic, easily accessible, and free coastal views.

Standing above Tasman Arch, it feels almost sculptural, with its clean, carved opening framed by rugged cliff edges. Watching the ebb and flow of the ocean through the arch was mesmerising.

Later, I would see Tasman Arch again from the sea, and it would feel entirely different.

Devils Kitchen

Near Eaglehawk Neck and a short walk from Tasman Arch, Devils Kitchen is a narrow, 60-metre-deep chasm with rugged cliff scenery. It was formed by the collapse of sea cave roofs due to intense, long-term erosion, and is named for the churning waters that crash onto the rocks.

A narrow, deep chasm.

Devils Kitchen viewed from the clifftop observation platform.

 

Visitors can view the Southern Ocean’s turbulent waters surging through the gorge from a safe observation platform with sweeping views.

Tessellated Pavement

Tile-like rock formation at the base of a coastal cliff.

Looking down on the Tessellated Pavement in Tasman National Park on the Tasman Peninsula.

 

Tessellated Pavement is an extremely rare, naturally occurring coastal rock formation named for the tiled appearance of the rocks along the water. It is found only in a few places on Earth. Created over millions of years by erosion, where salt spray from the ocean, combined with tidal action, has weathered the joints in the rock. The flat rock is divided into two main patterns: sunken “pans” and raised “loaves”.

Tasmania’s Tessellated Pavement at Pirates Bay, near Eaglehawk Neck in Tasman National Park, is one of the world’s best examples of this geological formation and is best viewed at low tide.

Tile-like rock formation partially covered in sea green moss.

The Tessellated Pavement, with Pirates Bay in the background.

 

From Clifftops to the Sea

After viewing the coastline from solid ground, it was time to see it from a completely different angle.

From land, you admire their formation. From the water, you feel their scale. Perspective changes everything.

Coastal Cruise: Eaglehawk Neck to Tasman Island

A Pennicott Wilderness Journey’s cruise boat departs Eaglehawk Neck for a cruise along the Tasman Peninsula’s coastline.

 

Cruising beneath the cliffs of Tasman National Park is a humbling experience. The shift in perspective is immediate, as the land’s scale, power, and movement are tangible in ways that clifftop views hint at but never fully convey.

As our boat moved into open water, those cliffs I had previously admired took on a whole new story. They had seemed tall when standing on them and looking down, but somehow, they rose even higher from sea level.

Every bend in the coastline revealed something new, from narrow inlets and jagged outcrops to sheer rock faces plunging straight into the ocean, their height and scale impossible to grasp from the clifftops. Towering dolerite columns rose vertically from the Southern Ocean as waves surged into hidden caves. Seabirds soared overhead, while seals rested on sunlit rocks, casting only the occasional glance in our direction.

From the water, the coastline I had earlier explored on foot looked significantly more dramatic and imposing.

Stunning Coastal Scenery

Tasman Arch – Seen from the Sea

Tasman Arch offered the clearest example of how perspective reshapes experience. From the clifftop lookout, I had watched waves surge through it far below. But only from the boat did I truly feel the immense height of the arch.

A bridge-like rock structure in the cliff face.

Tasman Arch viewed from the sea – a different perspective.

 

Incredible Rock Formations and Coastal Islands

Located off Cape Hauy, the iconic Totem Pole is a 65-metre-high dolerite sea stack. At only 4 metres wide at the base, it defies gravity as the Southern Ocean’s forces batter it. According to our boat guide, “It swings in the wind and shudders with each crashing wave”. However, this does not deter rock climbers, as it is considered one of the world’s most iconic and challenging rock climbs.

The narrow sea stack known as the Totem Pole.

 

Adjacent to the Totem Pole is The Candlestick, a broader, 120-metre-high dolerite sea stack. Like the Totem Pole, it is considered one of Australia’s most challenging and inaccessible rock-climbing sites, with access requiring a 10-metre swim.

Do rock climbers have a death wish?

Two famous sea stacks, the narrow Totem Pole and the wider Candlestick, stand side by side off Cape Hauy.

 

Tasman Island

Tasman Island is located at the south-eastern tip of the Tasman Peninsula, just 500 metres across the passage from Cape Pillar. It is a rugged, isolated, windswept rock with fortress-like grey basalt columns rising 240 metres straight out of the sea.

Tasman Island, with the steam winch used to hoist supplies up the island’s steep incline. Today, supplies are delivered by helicopter.

 

Atop the island is Tasman Island Lighthouse, one of Australia’s most inaccessible lighthouses. With its harsh, remote conditions, being posted there was so unpopular that it was once likened to the infamous American island prison, Alcatraz. It was even known to have driven numerous lightkeepers mad.

It is Australia’s highest operating lighthouse – a beacon for seafarers entering Storm Bay – and a key landmark for the famous Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race.

Tasman Island Lighthouse.

 

Wildlife Encounters

Tasman National Park is home to seals, dolphins, penguins and whales, as well as endangered bird species such as the Swift Parrot, Wedge-tailed Eagle and Tasmanian Sea Eagle.

How to Get There and Other Travel Tips

I visited Tasman National Park’s clifftop formations during a 10-day bus tour of Tasmania with Fun Over 50 Holidays. The itinerary included stops at Tasman Arch, Devils Kitchen, and the Tessellated Pavement en route to the famous penal colony of Port Arthur. However, day tours from Hobart to these destinations are also available through Viator and GetYourGuide.

The three-hour boat cruise along the Tasman Peninsula coastline, from Eaglehawk Neck to Tasman Island and back, was with Pennicott Wilderness Journeys on their “Tasman Island Wildlife Cruise”. It was taken on my second trip to Tasmania on a shore excursion from a cruise ship. However, you don’t need to be sailing on a cruise ship to experience Pennicott’s Tasman Island Cruise, as you can drive to Port Arthur, where the cruise departs, or join their full-day tour from Hobart.

You will get wet on this cruise. However, Pennicott Wilderness Journeys decked us all out in bright red raincoats that covered us from head to toe.

The waters of the Southern Ocean collide with the towering sea cliffs of the Tasman Peninsula, known for powerful swells and rough seas. On the day I took this cruise, there were extremely high winds, rough seas, and a large swell. Pennicott Wilderness Journeys offered us ginger travel calm tablets – a non-drowsy formula containing natural ginger root to help reduce motion sickness, nausea, and vomiting. As someone prone to seasickness, I took two tablets. I am pleased to report that I experienced no seasickness throughout the cruise.

Summer (December to February) is the best time to visit Tasman National Park, particularly the Tasman Peninsula. Days are warm and dry, making them ideal for hiking and wilderness cruises. Even in summer, Tasmania can experience four seasons in one day, so pack layers, including thermals, a fleece, and a rain jacket.

 

Looking back through these images, what stays with me most is not just the height of the cliffs or the precision of the Tessellated Pavement, but how differently the same coastline felt depending on where I stood. From the land, I noticed shapes, patterns, and sweeping views. From the water, I felt scale, movement, and the sea’s constant presence. Seeing Tasman Arch from above and then again from below made that shift unmistakable. The formation hadn’t changed, but my perspective had. 

If you’re visiting Tasman National Park, allow time for both experiences. The clifftop lookouts are accessible and striking, but the coastal cruise adds another dimension that brings you closer to the rock face, into the swell, and alongside the wildlife that calls this coast home. 

Whether standing at the edge of the Southern Ocean or moving beneath towering rock walls, Tasman National Park is a reminder that how you experience a landscape matters as much as where you go. Only from both perspectives do you fully understand this wild corner of Tasmania.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2026.

 

Have you ever experienced the same place in two completely different ways, and which perspective stayed with you the most? I’d love to hear your story. Share it in the comments below.

 

Like this post? Save it for later!

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

Sign up to receive the latest in travel destinations, topics, resources and guides.

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A steam locomotive with two carriages stands at a station.FROM QUEENSTOWN INTO THE WILDERNESS ABOARD TASMANIA’S HISTORIC TRAIN. Discover Tasmania’s West Coast Wilderness Railway: a historic steam train journey through rainforest, dramatic landscapes, and mining history, with premium onboard dining and immersive storytelling.

 

© Just Me Travel 2018-2026. All rights reserved.

 

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FROM QUEENSTOWN INTO THE WILDERNESS ABOARD TASMANIA’S HISTORIC TRAIN

My Unbiased Review of Tasmania’s West Coast Wilderness Railway.   Tasmania’s West Coast Wilderness Railway is much more than a scenic train ride, as the slower pace makes the journey…

My Unbiased Review of Tasmania’s West Coast Wilderness Railway.

 

Tasmania’s West Coast Wilderness Railway is much more than a scenic train ride, as the slower pace makes the journey itself the highlight. It travels through some of the island’s most remote and dramatic landscapes, following tracks built initially to serve the booming late-19th-century mining industry and now restored as a heritage experience. Dense rainforest, deep river valleys, and weathered remnants of the past unfold slowly outside the carriage windows.

I joined the West Coast Wilderness Railway in Queenstown for its Rinadeena, Rack & Rainforest expedition, travelling in the Wilderness (Premium) Carriage, where the combination of comfort, onboard dining, attentive service, and unhurried storytelling made the three-hour journey genuinely memorable.

This post is a detailed personal review of my experience and shares photos from the journey through one of Tasmania’s most remote regions.

 

About the West Coast Wilderness Railway

The West Coast Wilderness Railway is a historic 34.5-kilometre tourist railway linking Queenstown and Strahan on Tasmania’s rugged west coast, built through cliffs, rivers, and rainforest. It is renowned for using restored 120-year-old steam locomotives and the rare Abt rack-and-pinion (cogwheel) system to climb steep, dense rainforest terrain. Initially built in the 1890s to transport copper from the Mount Lyell mines, the railway offers heritage, wilderness, and dining experiences.

Rack-and-pinion railways are specialised mountain railways designed for extremely steep gradients. The West Coast Wilderness Railway has three kilometres of rack-and-pinion track to haul the train up the mountain between Rinadeena Station and Dubbil Barril Station. In this section, the train climbs from 90 metres above sea level to 270 metres over 2.5 kilometres, reaching a gradient of 1 in 16 and using 3,000 litres of water to cover that distance. It is the steepest steam railway journey in the Southern Hemisphere.

My West Coast Wilderness Railway steam train experience was on the “Rinadeena, Rack and Rainforest” 3-hour expedition, departing Queenstown and featuring off-train activities at Lynchford and Rinadeena stations, with views of the King River and ancient temperate rainforests.

The railway crosses the King River Gorge, a popular spot for river rafters.

 

This wilderness railway trip was an included excursion on Fun Over 50 Holidays’ 10-day Tasmina tour. It was one of the many highlights of the trip.

Choosing the Wilderness (Premium) Carriage

Travelling in the Wilderness (Premium) Carriage was the decision of Fun Over 50 Holidays when creating the itinerary – an excellent decision at that!

West Coast Wilderness Railway offers two very different carriage experiences. The Heritage (Standard) Carriage features upholstered seating and large windows for scenic viewing. The carriage can accommodate up to 40 passengers.

At the time of writing, the price for travel in the Heritage (Standard) Carriage is $95 per adult and $75 per child. Family tickets are available.

In contrast, the Wilderness (Premium) Carriage offers a more exclusive, relaxed, and personal travel experience:

  • Fewer passengers (a maximum of 26),
  • Spacious, comfortable leather booth seating with tables,
  • Attentive service,
  • Food and beverages served on board,
  • A dedicated host who shares stories and historical insights throughout the journey, and
  • A balcony for up close images as you wind your way through the rainforest.

At the time of writing, the price for travel in the Wilderness (Premium) Carriage is $135 per person. No family tickets are available.

Is the premium upgrade worth it? Absolutely!

The Journey: Highlights Along the Route

Map of the West Coast Wilderness Railway’s Rinadeena, Rack & Rainforest route, which starts and ends in Queenstown.

 

With its hillsides left bare by 19th-century copper mining, deforestation, and sulphur fumes, Queenstown is not a pretty town. However, soon after leaving the station, the train begins to wind its way through mountainous scenery characterised by dense, cool-temperate rainforest, steep, rocky terrain, and deep, lush gullies.

Railway track with cog-wheel tack in rainforest.

The train travels through cool-temperate rainforest as it climbs the mountainous terrain.

 

The journey includes several stops along the route, offering opportunities to stretch our legs, photograph the landscape, and learn more about the region’s mining history.

At Lynchford Station, in a historic former gold-mining area, we could try our hand at gold panning, explore the Pioneer Room to learn about the area’s history, or walk alongside the Queen River through the rainforest.

Don’t leave Lynchford Station without pouring a cup of black coffee into the orange-coloured Queen River beside the station. The river is so polluted from historic copper mining upstream that the black coffee turns green when it hits the water. The Wilderness Carriage host showed this ‘trick’ to a friend and me.

Lynchford marks the start of the steep, dramatic climb through temperate rainforest, mountainous terrain, and rugged wilderness towards Rinadeena. Before reaching Rinadeena, the train uses the three-kilometre rack-and-pinion system to ascend the steep grade, beginning just beyond Halls Creek Siding and ending just before Dubbil Barril Station. It is the steepest incline of any railway in the Southern Hemisphere.

The steam locomotive takes on water on the Rinadeena, Rack & Rainforest journey.

 

We stopped for half an hour at Rinadeena Saddle. The station offers breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and untouched rainforest, especially from its overhead bridge. It is here that you realise how remote and inaccessible the area is.

The last stop was at Dubbil Barril Station on the northern bank of the King River. It is the turnaround point for the West Coast Wilderness Railway, where the steam locomotive is turned on a turntable to reconnect with the carriages for the return journey to Queenstown.

The time taken to turn the steam locomotive around allowed me to explore the rainforest adjacent to the station.

A walk through the rainforest at Dubbil Barril Station.

 

Food and Drink in the Wilderness Carriage

One of the perks of travelling in the Wilderness (Premium) Carriage was the onboard catering included in the fare, a service not provided in the Heritage (Standard) Carriage, where snacks and drinks can be purchased on board or at stations along the way.

Boarding our Wilderness Carriage, we were welcomed with a glass of wine or orange juice and canapés as we departed Queenstown Station. Morning tea and lunch were served at our table during the journey, allowing us to chat with new friends and watch the landscape slowly pass by.

The quality and presentation of the catering elevated the journey, turning the day trip into a dining experience as well as a historic steam train ride. It added a relaxed rhythm to the day and reinforced that this was indeed a premium experience to be savoured by all the senses.

Service and Onboard Experience

Service throughout the journey was warm, knowledgeable, and unobtrusive. The Wilderness Carriage host shared stories and historical context without overwhelming the experience, striking a balance between informative and relaxed.

Questions were welcome, and the host showed genuine pride in the railway and its history. Combined with the slower pace of travel, the service helped create an immersive atmosphere rather than a rushed one.

 

Travelling aboard Tasmania’s West Coast Wilderness Railway was not just a scenic train ride. As we travelled through dense rainforest, alongside rivers and past relics of a brutal mining past, the journey itself became the highlight. The combination of a heritage steam locomotive, the rare rack-and-pinion climb, and the attentive hospitality of the Wilderness (Premium) Carriage transformed the Rinadeena, Rack & Rainforest journey into an unforgettable adventure.

Whether you’re a railway enthusiast, a lover of the wilderness, or simply seeking a unique Tasmanian experience, the West Coast Wilderness Railway from Queenstown offers a journey that lingers long after you return home.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2026.

 

Are you planning your own trip to Tasmania and have questions about the West Coast Railway? Drop them below, and I’ll be happy to help.

 

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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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View of a rugged coastline.TASMAN NATIONAL PARK, TASMANIA: 15 Photos to Inspire Your Visit. This post shares what it’s like to visit Tasman National Park’s iconic coastal sites, including Tasman Arch, Devils Kitchen, and the Tessellated Pavement, and to cruise beneath dramatic sea cliffs to Tasman Island. Read the photo story for travel inspiration.

 

© Just Me Travel 2018-2026. All rights reserved.

 

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SPECTACULAR NORTHERN ETHIOPIA: A Photo Travel Guide from Lalibela to Lake Tana

Ancient Churches Carved from Rock, Dramatic Highland Landscapes and Centuries of Living History. This Photo-Rich Travel Guide Captures Northern Ethiopia Through My Lens – One of Africa’s Most Captivating Regions….

Ancient Churches Carved from Rock, Dramatic Highland Landscapes and Centuries of Living History. This Photo-Rich Travel Guide Captures Northern Ethiopia Through My Lens – One of Africa’s Most Captivating Regions.

 

This photo travel guide traces my journey through Northern Ethiopia, including the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela and Tigray, the castles of Gondar, Lake Tana, the ruins of Axum, and the Simien Mountains, capturing moments of history, culture, and landscape through the lens. Each image reflects a region shaped by time, belief, and place – one of the world’s oldest and most compelling travel experiences.

 

Ethiopia, officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia, is a landlocked country in the Horn of Africa, bordered by six countries. It is a spiritually and historically rich country known for its ancient civilisations, strong cultural identity, and dramatic landscapes. Often called the cradle of humankind, it is home to important archaeological discoveries and has preserved its traditions, making it one of the few African nations never formally colonised.

Ethiopia is known for its welcoming people, distinctive cuisine, ancient monasteries, and for being the birthplace of coffee.

Northern Ethiopia captures the essence of the country’s ancient soul. As the heartland of Ethiopia’s earliest civilisations, the north is where history, faith, and dramatic landscapes come together most powerfully. Often described as the cradle of Ethiopian civilisation, this region is home to some of Africa’s most important archaeological, religious, and cultural sites – many of which are UNESCO World Heritage-listed.

My two weeks exploring Northern Ethiopia were a journey through one of Africa’s most extraordinary and least understood regions. While tourists flock to East Africa’s savannahs or Egypt’s pyramids, Ethiopia’s historical heartland remains quietly magnificent, with rock-hewn churches carved into mountain cliffs, ancient obelisks marking the ruins of mighty empires, and castles that seem transplanted from medieval Europe to the African highlands.

Northern Ethiopia is where human civilisation gave birth to Lucy, our 3.2-million-year-old ancestor. It’s where one of the world’s oldest Christian traditions has thrived uninterrupted for nearly 2,000 years, developing its own distinctive expression through art, architecture, and ritual. It’s where landscapes shift from the jagged peaks of the Simien Mountains to the vast expanse of Lake Tana, from the thundering Blue Nile Falls to the quiet pride of ancient Axum.

This was no easy journey, as reaching some of Tigray’s cliff churches required scrambling up rock faces, and the roads between destinations tested both stomachs and suspension systems. But it was precisely this remoteness, this sense of stepping off the well-worn tourist trail, that made every moment feel like a discovery. This is the story of that journey, from the rock-hewn wonders of Lalibela to the bustling streets of Addis Ababa, through a land where history isn’t preserved behind museum glass but lives and breathes in daily practice.

The Destinations: A Journey Through the North

Lalibela: Ethiopia’s Sacred City Carved from Rock

Lalibela is situated high in the Lasta Mountains at an elevation of 2,600 metres, surrounded by picturesque valleys.

Mountains surround farming land.

Lalibela is enclosed by the towering Lasta Mountains range, the third-highest range in Ethiopia.

 

Famous for its incredible 11 monolithic churches, carved downward into solid volcanic rock in the 12th and 13th centuries by King Lalibela, with roofs at ground level, Lalibela is unlike anywhere else in the world.

A complex system of narrow tunnels and passageways connects the churches. It was like a rabbit warren, creating a sense of mystical adventure as I moved from one church to another. At times, I felt like I was playing Indiana Jones as I traversed passageways that spanned sheer drops.

Each church has its own resident monk, and shoes must be removed before entering. In the end, I stopped tying my shoelaces.

King Lalibela “built” the churches to create a “New Jerusalem” for Christian pilgrims after Muslim leader Saladin captured Jerusalem, making access to the Holy Land difficult, and to rival Axum, home to the Ark of the Covenant. It is said that the king built the churches with roofs at ground level to hide them from his enemies.

Set apart from the rest of Lalibela’s churches, the iconic Biete Giyorgis (Church of Saint George), named after Ethiopia’s patron saint, is the most famous of Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches. Carved from a single block of volcanic rock in the shape of a Greek cross, to a depth of over 12 metres, this subterranean church is accessible via tunnels.

Biete Giyorgis (St George’s Church) has become an icon of Ethiopia.

 

Looking down on a rock-hewn church with a man in a white robe looking in a doorway.

Biete Giyorgis represents the spiritual heart of Ethiopia.

 

There are two versions of Biete Giyorgis’ history: one says it was built by King Lalibela’s widow after his death (about 1220). The other claim is that King Lalibela promised to build a church to Saint George, who was upset that there was no church dedicated to him.

Lalibela is not just a historical site but a living testament to Ethiopian faith, where worship has continued as it has for centuries, not staged for visitors. It is a vital pilgrimage centre for the Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church and home to more than 1,000 priests.

Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches are often called the Eighth Wonder of the World for their unique architecture and are also a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The journey north from Lalibela to Tigray brings a striking change in landscape. From Lalibela’s rugged Ethiopian Highlands, with volcanic hills and deep valleys, to Tigray’s more dramatic landscape, characterised by towering sandstone ridges, cliffs, and plateaus, interspersed with farming communities.

Round-shaped mountains and farming land.

The Gheralta Mountain range in Ethiopia’s Tigray region is home to some of the country’s oldest churches.

 

The Rock-Hewn Churches of Tigray: Sacred Sanctuaries in the Sky

The most iconic feature of Tigray’s Gheralta Mountains is the ancient rock-hewn churches carved by monks centuries ago directly into cliff faces, often requiring challenging climbs to reach but creating unique architectural marvels.

Tigray has 120 rock-hewn churches, dating from the 4th to the 6th century and still in use today. Unlike Lalibela’s churches, Tigray’s are carved directly into the cliff walls of the Amba Mountains – flat-topped mountains with almost vertical sides – or perched atop sheer-sided plateaus, making them difficult to access.

The Tigray churches are semi-monolithic. That is, they are partially excavated from a rock face or cliff and also feature constructed elements, such as masoned walls, or carved from caves.

Abreha We Atsbeha Church, which was relatively easy to reach, is widely regarded by experts as the finest church in Tigray. It was larger than any I saw in Lalibela, and its medieval frescoes depicting biblical scenes are remarkably well preserved.

Abreha We Atsbeha Church, viewed from the base of the hill.

 

Religious scenes painted on walls inside a church.

Well-preserved murals inside the ancient rock-hewn Abreha We Atsbeha Church.

 

The second Tigray church I visited was Wukro Chirkos Church, which was also easily accessible. It is a semi-monolithic cruciform-shaped church that has been in continuous use for over 1,600 years.

Wukro Chirkos Church is a historic rock-hewn church, dating back to the 4th century.

 

Wukro Chirkos Church’s murals of saints were blackened by fire centuries ago.

 

There was one more church on the itinerary to visit, but there was no way I was going to climb to churches that demanded hugging rock faces!

The drive from Tigray’s sky-high churches to Axum, Ethiopia’s ancient capital, was a journey through spectacular scenery at every turn.

Flat-top mountains with farming land on top and deep valleys.

I never tired of seeing and photographing northern Ethiopia’s ever-changing landscape.

 

Axum: Birthplace of Ancient Civilisation

Axum is where Ethiopian civilisation began and is one of Ethiopia’s most important historical sites. It was the powerful capital of the ancient Axumite Kingdom, which, between the 1st and 8th centuries CE, rivalled Rome and Persia as a significant trading empire.

Today, Axum is home to extraordinary archaeological treasures and sacred sites, including the stelae field, the palace ruins associated with the Queen of Sheba, and the Church of St. Mary of Zion, which is believed to house the Ark of the Covenant.

Axum’s most recognisable landmarks are its towering granite stelae in the Northern Stelae Field. These ancient obelisks, carved from a single piece of stone and some over 20 metres tall, mark the tombs of kings and nobles. The engraved stelae mark the graves of the kings of the Axumite dynasty, while the unengraved stelae mark the graves of nobles.

Not all stelae have stood the test of time. The collapse of one king’s stela enabled exploration of the tomb’s interior, a labyrinth of tunnels and rooms.

Tall engraved and non-engraved obelisks, with a collasped stelae in the foreground.

The Northern Stelae Field, Axum – the graveyard markers of Axumite kings and nobles.

 

Also located in the Northern Stelae Field is the Edna Iyesus Church (Church of St Jesus), an ancient, historically significant church known for its stunning, vibrant religious murals.

Among the most notable paintings are those depicting Mary and Child, saints and apostles, and St George slaying the dragon.

The stories and characters of the Bible come alive on the walls of Edna Iyesus through its vivid frescos.

 

Axum’s most sacred site is the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion, which, according to Ethiopian Orthodox tradition, houses the original Ark of the Covenant in the Chapel of the Tablet next to the church. According to legend, the Ark was smuggled from Israel to Ethiopia by Menelik I, the son of Solomon and the Queen of Sheba – a belief rooted in Ethiopia’s national psyche but regarded by historians as a powerful national myth.

No one is allowed to see the Ark of the Covenant except a single, virgin monk appointed to guard it, who never leaves the Chapel grounds and only appoints his successor before his death.

External view of the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion.

Nearby is the Bath of the Queen of Sheba – a massive, ancient water reservoir carved from solid rock, with stone steps leading down to it, where she reportedly bathed. Despite the legend linking it to the Queen of Sheba and Ethiopian tradition that she originated from Axum, it was not a personal bathing pool but a vital water source for the city. Today, it’s a significant religious purification site, especially during Timkat (Epiphany).

A body of brown water with a hill behind it.

The Queen of Sheba’s Bath, Axum.

 

In the western part of Axum are the ruins of the Palace of the Queen of Sheba, known locally as Dungur. The archaeological site comprises 50 rooms, a throne room with steps, a kitchen with a brick oven, and a drainage system. Although archaeologists debate whether it was truly the Queen of Sheba’s palace or a nobleman’s mansion from the same era, the Dungur site is the most widely recognised archaeological location associated with her palace.

The ruins of the Queen of Sheba’s Palace on the western outskirts of Axum.

 

The Simien Mountains: The Roof of Africa

It was a long drive from Axum to the Simien Mountains. The 264 kilometres took seven hours, with a stop for a picnic lunch on the side of the road, shared with cows, and the obligatory coffee stop.

Have I mentioned that Ethiopia has the best coffee in the world? Ethiopia is the birthplace of coffee, where brewing and drinking it are world-renowned rituals steeped in tradition and social significance. I was in coffee heaven, and whenever I could, I took part in the coffee ceremony.

But back to the long drive, which kept revealing the most spectacular scenery as we wound our way up through the Simien Mountains National Park – a UNESCO World Heritage Site of jagged peaks, massive escarpments and deep valleys. Sometimes called the ‘Roof of Africa’, it is home to Ethiopia’s highest peak, which rises to 4550 metres (14,930 feet). It doesn’t take much imagination to feel as if you are standing on top of the world.

Gallery – The breathtaking Simien Mountains:

I stayed two nights at Simien Lodge. Read my post about its unique heating system.

After many days of long-distance driving, it was a welcome relief to stretch my legs with walks in the national park.

Gondar: The Camelot of Africa

I never expected to see royal castles in Ethiopia. But Gondar has six castles in its Royal Enclosure (Fasil Ghebbi), which served as the royal residence for Ethiopia’s rulers from the 1640s to 1864 and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

A 900-metre wall encloses the Royal Enclosure’s seven hectares and contains churches, palaces, monasteries, and even a lion’s cage. The best-preserved is King Fasilidas’ castle, a three-storey fortress with battlements and towers, known locally as the Egg Castle for its egg-shaped roof.

The Palace of Empress Mentewab – one of the most powerful women in Ethiopian history.

 

As I wandered through these medieval ruins in the Royal Enclosure, it was easy to see why Gondar is known as the ‘Camelot of Africa’.

Nearby, the stunning Debre Berhan Selassie Church (Trinity and Mountain of Light Church) is the most famous place of worship in Gondar. Built in the 17th century, the church is renowned for its remarkable murals that cover the interior walls and ceiling. The walls depict biblical events, including the lives of Christ, Mary, saints, and martyrs, while the ceiling is covered with 135 painted faces of winged cherubic angels peering down at visitors. For reasons I never understood, none of the angels in any of the churches I visited had bodies; they had only faces and wings.

On the outskirts of Gondar is King Fasilidas’ Bath – a large rectangular pool with a three-storey pavilion within it, surrounded by stone walls through which the roots of ancient trees grow. The pool was empty when I visited, but it is filled once a year for Timkat (Epiphany) celebrations, when hundreds of pilgrims jump in to re-enact Christ’s baptism.

An empty pool with stone wall and two storey stone pavilion.

King Fasilidas’ Bath, Gondar.

 

Stopping for the mandatory coffee on the way to Bahir Dar, I couldn’t resist capturing the local street scene.

A group of men and women walking along a road.

Locals are going about their daily business.

 

Bahir Dar and Lake Tana: The Source of Life

Bahir Dar is a palm-lined, Mediterranean-style city on the shores of Lake Tana, Ethiopia’s largest lake and the source of the Blue Nile.

The beautiful setting of Desset Restaurant on the shores of Lake Tana, Bahir Dar.

 

The city is the gateway to Lake Tana’s island monasteries. The lake comprises 37 islands, around 27 of which have monasteries and churches and are accessible only by water.

Boating across Lake Tana, I was thrilled to see hippos and fascinated by the traditional tankwa reed boats used by locals to navigate the lake. These boats looked very sinkable!

A local paddles a traditional tank reed boat on Lake Tana.

 

Azuwa Maryam Monastery is one of the more accessible monasteries on Lake Tana, just a short boat ride from Bahir Dar across the lake. Its round church has a thatched roof and is famous for its stunning, occasionally gruesome, vividly coloured interior wall paintings depicting biblical stories and saints in the traditional Ethiopian style. Some paintings are applied directly to the walls, while others are painted on cloth and glued to the walls. I was advised by the priest who acted as a guide that the paintings are retouched every 300 years.

Religious iconography painted a a church wall.

The remarkable wall paintings inside Azuwa Maryam Monastery on Lake Tana, Bahir Dar.

 

Motoring past other island monasteries on Lake Tana, access to many is forbidden because, according to the boat driver, “women are a temptation”.

Blue Nile Falls: Ethiopia’s Impressive Waterfall

About 30 kilometres from Bahir Dar’s peaceful lakeside lies a place where the tranquillity of Lake Tana gives way to the power of Blue Nile Falls, locally known as Tis Issat, or “the water that smokes” – one of Ethiopia’s most dramatic natural sights.

The mighty Blue Nile Falls.

 

Read my post on Blue Nile Falls to learn about my visit to this breathtaking waterfall, why locals call it Tis Issat, and to see more photos that will inspire you to add these falls to your Ethiopian bucket list.

Addis Ababa: Ethiopia’s Dynamic Capital

Addis Ababa is located in the foothills of the Entoto Mountains, at an elevation of 2,400 metres, making it the third-highest capital city in the world.

I had begun my journey around northern Ethiopia in Addis Ababa, but didn’t have the chance to explore the city until my return at the end of my trip. Even then, I had only a day and a night to see what the city had to offer.

My visit to Holy Trinity Cathedral included a tour of the massive tombs of Emperor Haile Selassie and his wife, Empress Menen Asfaw. Haile Selassie was the last Emperor of Ethiopia, ruling from 1030 to 1974. Unusually, walking through the cathedral’s gardens meant dodging numerous tortoises roaming free.

The tombs of Emperor Haile Selassie and his wife

 

My highlight of Addis Ababa was the three hours I spent at the Ethnological Museum. This delightful, well-organised museum, located within Addis Ababa University, is dedicated to preserving, studying, and presenting Ethiopia’s rich cultural heritage. Exhibits cover the lifecycles, cultures, and artifacts of Ethiopia’s 80 ethnic groups, including musical instruments, clothing, tools, jewellery, religious manuscripts, ceremonial items, paintings, and much more.

 

Travelling through Northern Ethiopia is not just a journey across landscapes but a passage through time and tradition. From the mystical rock-hewn churches of Lalibela and Tigray, where faith is carved into stone and lived each day, to the ancient stelae and legends of Axum, the region’s history is as tangible as its dramatic scenery. The castles of Gondar, the breathtaking heights of the Simien Mountains, and the tranquil waters of Lake Tana each tell their own stories – of empires, spirituality, and the enduring resilience of the Ethiopian people. 

What makes Northern Ethiopia truly unforgettable is the way history, culture, and daily life are inseparable. Here, the past is not locked away in museums but is part of the present, seen in rituals of worship, vibrant art, and the warmth of local hospitality. The challenges of travel – rugged roads, steep climbs, and, at times, a limited tourism infrastructure – are far outweighed by the rewards: moments of awe, connection, and discovery that linger long after the journey ends, and the best coffee in the world.

Whether you’re drawn by the call of adventure, the allure of ancient mysteries, or the simple pleasure of sharing coffee with new friends, Northern Ethiopia offers an experience as enriching as it is unique. May this photo travel guide inspire you to explore, ask questions, and embrace the wonders that await in this extraordinary corner of Africa.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2026. All rights reserved.

 

Did this post add Ethiopia to your bucket list? What sealed the deal, or what’s holding you back?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation and leave a comment below.

 

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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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Round stone huts with straw roofs set in green mountains.SIMIEN MOUNTAINS ETHIOPIA: When “Plastic Card” Means Warmth (Not what you think!). International travel inevitably presents translation challenges. Read about my communication issue in Ethiopia’s Simien Mountains that I can laugh about now, but, at the time, impacted my physical comfort.

 

 

A panel of text telling the story of Ethiopian coffee culture and a woman's hands using a pestle and mortar.UNVEILING THE ETHIOPIAN COFFEE CEREMONY: Experience a Perfect Cultural Delight. Journey to the birthplace of coffee – Ethiopia, where coffee isn’t just a drink but a ritual steeped in tradition and social significance. Learn the ritual steps of Ethiopia’s coffee ceremony.

 

 

A wide waterfall raised white clouds of mist as it plunges into a natural pool.DISCOVER WHY BLUE NILE FALLS SHOULD TOP YOUR ETHIOPIA BUCKET LIST. Step into my visit to Blue Nile Falls in Ethiopia – a simple boat ride, a scenic walk, and an unforgettable moment in one of Africa’s great landscapes.

 

 

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DISCOVER WHY BLUE NILE FALLS SHOULD TOP YOUR ETHIOPIA BUCKET LIST

Exploring One of Africa’s Hidden Gems: Blue Nile Falls (Tis Issat) in Ethiopia     Dear Family, Hello from Tis Issat (Blue Nile Falls) in Ethiopia. As you know, I…

Exploring One of Africa’s Hidden Gems: Blue Nile Falls (Tis Issat) in Ethiopia

 

 

Dear Family,

Hello from Tis Issat (Blue Nile Falls) in Ethiopia.

As you know, I love waterfalls, and Blue Nile Falls did not disappoint. They are known locally as Tis Issat, meaning “the water that smokes”. It’s an apt name – when the Blue Nile River is in full flow, the falls send thick clouds of spray high into the air like wisps of smoke, leaving you feeling quite damp.

Located about 30 kilometres downstream from Lake Tana, the source of the Nile, Blue Nile Falls are the second largest waterfalls in Africa, after Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. Regardless of its ranking, as the river plunges over a basalt cliff that is 400 metres wide and 45 metres deep, what I saw was a breathtaking display of power and beauty.

Leaving Bahir Dar, where I was staying on Lake Tana, my guide and two other women drove to the small town of Tis Abay (meaning “the smoking Nile” and the name most travellers know the falls by) for our walk to Blue Nile Falls (Tis Issat).

You might see the Blue Nile Falls called Tis Issat or Tis Abay, so I’ll explain the difference the way my local guide did.

  • The waterfall itself is called Tis Issat, “the water that smokes”, named for the mist that rises in drifting white clouds.
  • The nearby town where every visit to the falls begins is Tis Abay. “Abay” is the Amharic word for the Blue Nile, so Tis Abay roughly means “the smoking Nile”, linking the town to the river that feeds the waterfall.

People understandably confuse the two names, but locals don’t – Tis Issat is the waterfall, and Tis Abay is the place you start your walk to it.

From Tis Abay, we crossed the Blue Nile in a small local boat, gliding over a calm, narrower stretch of the river. Once on the far bank, the rest of the journey was on foot, an easy 1.5-kilometre walk following the river on a dirt track and accompanied by several small children trying to sell us souvenirs.

As we rounded the escarpment and the waterfall came into view, I was awestruck, my heart racing with excitement at the spectacular sight. The Blue Nile River thundered down the cliff face into a natural pool with unstoppable force, sending up clouds of spray before dropping again into the gorge below.

Our guide told us we were lucky to see the Blue Nile Falls actually flowing, especially given its volume, because a hydroelectric dam was built between Lake Tana and Blue Nile Falls, and the waterfall is only ‘switched on’ on certain days of the week. We were there on a Saturday, and according to our guide, the waterfall is not ‘switched off’ on weekends.

There was a thatched, wooden coffee house within sight of the falls, and we had to stop before heading back to Tis Abay to take part in Ethiopia’s ritual coffee ceremony, practised throughout the country.

As much as I love my coffee, I knew I was delaying the inevitable – leaving Tis Issat. The sound of the water and the quiet of the landscape made me want to linger longer. Blue Nile Falls is not just a sight to see, but one of those places you never forget.

Till the next adventure,

Joanna

 

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025. All rights reserved.

 

What’s a travel moment that took your breath away and stayed with you long after you returned home?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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An image with two photos of a waterfall taken from different angles.

An image with two photos: one of two people in front of a waterfall, and the other of a structure made of wooden poles and with a thatched roof.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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A church in the shape of a cross carved downwards in the volcanic rock.SPECTACULAR NORTHERN ETHIOPIA: A Photo Travel Guide from Lalibela to Lake Tana. Explore Northern Ethiopia’s ancient churches, castles, and breathtaking landscapes in this photo travel guide. Discover history, culture, and adventure through stunning images and insightful stories.

 

A panel of text telling the story of Ethiopian coffee culture and a woman's hands using a pestle and mortar.UNVEILING THE ETHIOPIAN COFFEE CEREMONY: Experience a Perfect Cultural Delight. Journey to the birthplace of coffee – Ethiopia – where coffee isn’t just a drink but a ritual steeped in tradition and social significance. Learn the ritual steps of Ethiopia’s coffee ceremony.

 

Round stone huts with straw roofs set in green mountains.SIMIEN MOUNTAINS ETHIOPIA: When “Plastic Card” Means Warmth (Not what you think!). International travel will inevitably lead to translation challenges. Read about my communication issue in Ethiopia’s Simien Mountains that I can laugh about now, but at the time, it affected my physical comfort.

 

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025. All rights reserved.

 

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SAVANNAH WAY ROAD TRIP: Cool Off in 5 Crocodile-Free Swimming Holes

From Mataranka Thermal Pool, Butterfly Falls, and Lorella Springs Wilderness Park to Hell’s Gate Roadhouse and Copperfield Gorge – Five Swimming Holes in Australia’s Top End.   Driving Australia’s Savannah…

From Mataranka Thermal Pool, Butterfly Falls, and Lorella Springs Wilderness Park to Hell’s Gate Roadhouse and Copperfield Gorge – Five Swimming Holes in Australia’s Top End.

 

Driving Australia’s Savannah Way is one of those epic outback adventures that stays with you long after the dust settles. Stretching over 3,700 kilometres from Broome in Western Australia to Cairns in Queensland, the route winds through monsoon rainforest, open savannah, and some of the most remote parts of northern Australia.

I travelled this legendary route with APT (Australian Pacific Touring) on their 12-Day Savannah Explorer 4WD Tour, journeying from Darwin to Cairns (a reverse trip from Cairns to Darwin is also available). With APT’s expert guides leading the way, the experience offered the right balance of comfort and adventure – from rugged landscapes to natural hot springs and hidden gorges. 

But there’s one question that comes up time and again when exploring Australia’s Top End: Can you swim here? 

In crocodile country, finding a safe swimming spot is like striking gold. While the region is famous for its wild waterways and thermal springs, you can never assume they’re crocodile-free. During my journey along the Savannah Way, I discovered several places where you can usually swim safely – though, as always, you must check with locals before diving in. 

Here are five refreshing (usually) crocodile-free swimming holes along the Savannah Way – from the Northern Territory’s tropical springs to Queensland’s rocky gorges.

 

Important Safety Note

Before you dip a toe in any northern Australian waterway, remember: no swimming spot is ever guaranteed to be 100% crocodile-free. Conditions can change overnight, especially after heavy rains, when crocodiles might move into new areas.

Always take these precautions before swimming:

  • Ask locals or park rangers about current conditions – they know best.
  • Look for warning signs and never ignore them.
  • Avoid swimming at dawn or dusk, when crocodiles are most active.
  • Never swim alone.

Respecting these simple safety rules ensures your outback adventure remains safe and memorable.

The Swimming Holes Along the Savannah Way

From thermal pools shaded by palm trees to deep outback gorges carved by time, these five swimming spots were highlights of my trip. They were ideal for soothing sore muscles or cooling off after long, dusty drives. I swam in all of them.

Mataranka Thermal Pool (Elsey National Park, Northern Territory)

[642 Homestead Road, Mataranka, NT 0852]

Mataranka Thermal Pool is a series of geothermal hot springs surrounded by paperbark trees and nestled in a lush palm forest within Elsey National Park. The pool has a sandy bottom, and its crystal-clear water stays a warm 34°C year-round. It felt like swimming in an open-air spa!

A person swimming in a hot spring that is surronded by gum trees and palms.

Swimming in the Mataranka Thermal Pool is like soaking in a hot bath!

 

The pool is an easy 500-metre return walk from the car park along a paved path. There are stairs with handrails leading into the pool.

Mataranka Thermal Pool is free to visit, and you don’t need a permit for the national park.

The area was made famous by the novel We of the Never Never, an Australian classic by Jeannie Gunn (writing under the name of her husband, Aeneas Gunn), which tells of her life on Elsey Station around 1902.

The Katherine Visitor Information Centre says Mataranka Thermal Pool is one of the few easily accessible spots in the region where you can swim without the threat of saltwater crocodiles. However, while generally considered safe for swimming, it’s best to check with park rangers first, as conditions can change.

Butterfly Falls (Limmen National Park, Northern Territory)

[via Nathan River Road, Limmen, NT 0852]

The drive to the remote Butterfly Falls passes through open savannah and along red dirt tracks. However, upon arrival, you find a serene oasis in an otherwise rugged landscape.

Three people swimming in a natural pool created by a waterfall cascading down red cliffs.

Escaping the heat in the clear pool surrounded by red cliffs at Butterfly Falls.

 

The waterfall cascades in the wet season and trickles in the dry into a beautiful, naturally formed waterhole surrounded by lush vegetation and red sandstone cliffs. It’s a magical spot to cool off.

Butterfly Falls is named for the thousands of Common Crow butterflies that fill the area in the dry season.

Common Crow butterflies cling to the cool of the cliff face at Butterfly Falls.

 

Butterfly Falls is the only crocodile-safe swimming spot in Limmen National Park. However, even here, always check with rangers to confirm it’s safe to swim, especially after heavy rain.

Limmen National Park requires visitors to have a Northern Territory Parks Pass, available online.

Lorella Springs Wilderness Park – Thermal Springs and Rosie Creek

[via Borroloola, NT 0854]

Few places capture the essence of outback adventure quite like Lorella Springs Wilderness Park. This one-million-acre outback cattle station, a wilderness of untamed beauty, offers visitors the chance to explore and unwind in a landscape of escarpments, billabongs, and hidden springs.

The thermal spring near the homestead, called “Magical Spring”, is one of Lorella’s top attractions. It features warm, clear, flowing water in a rock pool shaded by palm trees, creating an atmosphere of total relaxation.

A guest at Lorella Springs relaxes in the thermal pool near the homestead.

 

For something a bit more adventurous, head out to Stock Camp Swimming Hole on Rosie Creek, one of Lorella Springs Wilderness Park’s most peaceful and scenic waterholes – an outback oasis deep within the park.  Our APT guides referred to this swimming hole as the Stock Yards. The creek has a shallow, sandy bottom with tall paperbarks and pandanus palms lining its banks. The water was clear and refreshing.

Despite there being 18 of us swimming and picnicking on Rosie Creek, it was quiet and peaceful, like my own private sanctuary. It felt utterly remote!

People swimming in a shallow creek with gum trees lining its banks.

Stock Camp Swimming Hole on Rosie Creek is one of the most beautiful places to swim along the Savannah Way.

 

Lorella’s staff are always aware of crocodile movements and will advise you on safe swimming spots – essential in this remote part of the Gulf region.

Please note: Since 2023, Lorella Springs Wilderness Park has been closed to self-drive independent visitors due to Northern Territory bureaucracy and ‘red tape’. The park is now accessible only to visitors on pre-booked, organised outback tour groups.

Hell’s Gate Roadhouse (Cliffdale Station, Queensland)

[Westmoreland Road, QLD, on the Savannah Way]

Crossing into Queensland, about 50 kilometres from the Northern Territory border along a remote stretch of the Savannah Way, Hell’s Gate feels like the edge of the world, with its vast, open landscape and endless sky.

About 200 metres from the accommodation block, you’ll find a sandy-bottom swimming hole surrounded by the red dirt and eucalyptus trees typical of outback Australia – a refreshing spot to cool off.

A waterhole surrounded by gum trees and red dirt.

Who wouldn’t be tempted to take a dip in this picturesque swimming hole at Hell’s Gate Roadhouse?

 

Given how remote Hell’s Gate Roadhouse is, always check with the roadhouse staff before swimming. They’ll know whether it’s safe, as crocodiles can occasionally move through nearby creeks after rain.

Copperfield Gorge (Einasleigh, Queensland)

[Gregory Development Road, Einasleigh, QLD 4871]

Further east in Queensland’s Gulf Country, the landscape changes again, and Copperfield Gorge stands out as one of the region’s most striking natural formations, with its deep chasms, rockpools, peaceful beaches, and narrow channels.

A narrow gorge with basalt cliffs.

Swim with the locals at the stunning Copperfield Gorge.

 

Located just a short walk from the old copper mining town of Einasleigh on the Savannah Way alternate route, the gorge has been carved over time by the Copperfield River, creating sheer basalt walls that drop into a sandy riverbed and exposing ancient lava flow layers. It’s a stunning spot to walk along its walls, take a swim, and capture photos of the contrasting colours.

In truth, Copperfield Gorge isn’t ‘crocodile-free’, as locals say there are freshwater crocodiles in the gorge, but they will leave you alone if you do the same. Still, I feel it’s my duty to warn you that you swim at your own risk.

A note on freshwater crocodiles:

Freshwater crocodiles (Johnston River Freshwater Crocodiles) are less aggressive and dangerous than saltwater crocodiles (Estuarine Crocodiles). They are generally shy and will flee from people but will defend themselves if provoked – if they feel cornered, are startled, or are defending a nest. While bites typically cause injuries like puncture wounds and lacerations, there are no known fatalities from freshwater crocodile attacks in Australia.

How to avoid an attack from a freshwater crocodile:

  • Do not disturb or try to catch a freshwater crocodile.
  • Keep at least ten metres away from them, even if they seem to be sleeping.
  • Never feed wild crocodiles or leave food scraps near water sources, as this can encourage them to associate humans with food.
  • Keep pets on a lead and away from the water’s edge.
  • Be especially cautious at night, dusk, and dawn. Crocodiles are more likely to be hunting during these times and are harder to spot.

Practical Information – Planning Your Savannah Way Adventure

The Savannah Way spans a vast distance, connecting tropical rainforests, cattle stations, national parks, and small outback towns. To get the most out of your trip, plan carefully, especially when heading into remote areas.

Best time to go:

Travel the Savannah Way during the dry season (April to October) when you will experience cooler weather and easier access to remote areas.

Avoid the wet season (November to March), as sections of the Savannah Way can be affected by heavy rain, causing flooding, impassable river crossings, and bringing crocodiles into new waterways.

Road and travel tips:

  • Some stretches of the Savannah Way are unsealed and better suited to a 4WD vehicle.
  • Carry plenty of water, fuel, and food as services are far apart.
  • Stay in national park campgrounds, roadhouses, or remote stations for an authentic outback experience.
  • Check road conditions regularly through local councils or traveller information centres.

Crocodile Safety Summary

  • Always check with locals or rangers before swimming.
  • Obey any warning signs.
  • Avoid swimming at night, dawn, or dusk.
  • Stay out if you’re unsure – the outback is beautiful, but it demands respect.

If you’re tracing my route, these five swimming holes form a memorable line across the top of Australia – from Mataranka in the Northern Territory to Einasleigh in Queensland.

 

Exploring the Savannah Way is an adventure in every sense – wide horizons, rugged country, and those rare, magical moments when a cool, clear swimming hole appears in the middle of the outback. From the tropical warmth of Mataranka Thermal Pool and the tranquillity of Butterfly Falls to the remote serenity of Lorella Springs, the rugged beauty of Hell’s Gate, and the striking landscape of Copperfield Gorge, each stop offers a unique way to experience the heart of northern Australia.

While these swimming holes are usually considered crocodile-free, conditions can change at any time. Always speak with locals, rangers, or tour guides before entering the water to ensure conditions are safe on the day you visit. 

Whether you’re travelling independently or on a 4WD tour like APT’s Savannah Explorer, these refreshing pools, creeks, and gorges show that the outback isn’t just red dirt and wide-open spaces – it’s full of surprising, unforgettable places to swim, unwind, and connect with the landscape.  

If you’re planning your own Savannah Way trip, be sure to include these swimming holes. They’re some of the region’s true highlights.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025.

 

If you could travel to one of the swimming holes in this post right now, which one would it be?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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An image with two photos: a creek with a beach and black and white butterflies clinging to a cliff face.

An image with two photos: a waterhole and a creek.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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UNDARA: SEE AMAZING LAVA TUBES AND STAY IN UNIQUE ACCOMMODATION

Only in Undara Volcanic National Park, in Outback Queensland, Can You Combine a Guided Tour of Ancient Lava Tubes with a Stay in a Heritage Railway Carriage.   Deep in…

Only in Undara Volcanic National Park, in Outback Queensland, Can You Combine a Guided Tour of Ancient Lava Tubes with a Stay in a Heritage Railway Carriage.

 

Deep in the heart of outback Queensland lies one of Australia’s most fascinating geological wonders – the Undara Lava Tubes. Here, ancient volcanic activity has shaped vast underground tunnels, now silent witnesses to millions of years of natural history. My visit to Undara Volcanic National Park combined adventure and nostalgia – exploring the incredible lava tubes by day and sleeping in a beautifully restored turn-of-the-century railway carriage at Discovery Resorts – Undara by night. It was a perfect mix of geology, history, and outback hospitality.

I visited Undara Lava Tubes with APT (Australian Pacific Touring) on their 12-Day Savannah Explorer 4WD Tour, travelling from Darwin to Cairns along the Savannah Way.

 

About Undara Volcanic National Park

Situated on the McBride Volcanic Province, about 275 kilometres southwest of Cairns and around 420 kilometres northwest of Townsville, Undara Volcanic National Park is part of the Gulf Savannah region in outback Tropical North Queensland. The park features one of the world’s longest lava tube systems, formed over 190,000 years ago when the Undara Volcano erupted. This event caused molten lava to flow over 160 kilometres across the landscape, mainly down the western side of the Great Dividing Range – the world’s longest flow from a single volcano. This flow created the geological phenomenon now known as the Undara Lava Tubes.

As the outer layers of the lava cooled and hardened, the molten lava inside continued to flow, eventually draining away to create hollow tubes – nature’s own underground corridors. Today, the Undara Lava Tubes provide a rare opportunity to explore the remains of this ancient eruption and marvel at nature’s power.

‘Undara’ is an Aboriginal word meaning ‘long way’ – a fitting name for one of the world’s longest lava tube cave systems.

The Undara Lava Tubes Tour 

Access to the lava tubes is only possible through a guided tour to ensure visitor safety and protect the fragile environment.

After settling into our historic railway carriage accommodation at Discovery Resorts – Undara, our APT group joined our experienced Savannah Guide for the leisurely, two-hour Archway Explorer Lava Tube Tour.

Map displaying the Undara Lava Tubes and the accessible volcanic caves inside the tubes.

 

As it happened, our guide was a geologist who was very informative, easy to understand, and entertaining, keeping us engaged throughout the tour.

The Archway Explorer Lava Tube Tour is so named because of the archway formed when a weaker section of the lava tube’s roof collapsed. Descending through the archway and into the lava tube was an eerie experience, offering a breathtaking glimpse into the ancient forces that shaped Australia’s landscape. The drop in temperature, the increasing darkness, and the unique mosaic colours on the ceiling as I went further into the hollow lava tube felt like stepping into another world.

Descending the steps through the volcanic archway to the entrance of the lava tube.

 

The tour guides you along boardwalks and stairs with handrails that are suitable for most people. It is not accessible for wheelchairs or strollers.

Two woman descend stairs to the boardwalk that lead inside a cave.

The Archway Explorer Lava Tube Tour took us inside the hollow volcanic tube.

 

The unique mosaic appearance of the lava tube ceilings is created by mineral deposits seeping through the volcanic rock and by the oxidation of iron, which rusts over time.

 

Our guide took us to the entrance of a larger lava tube, but we weren’t allowed inside for safety reasons due to a recent roof collapse.

Tips:

  • Wear enclosed shoes, a hat, and sunscreen.
  • Bring a camera and a water bottle.
  • Tours run throughout the operating season (April to October) but can vary in duration and accessibility depending on the weather.

Staying at Discovery Resorts – Undara

Discovery Resorts – Undara is located on the edge of the Undara Volcanic National Park and is one with nature.

Our APT tour group was accommodated in the resort’s charming heritage railway carriages, which have won Australian Tourism Awards in the unique accommodation category. Built in the early 1900s, they have been lovingly refurbished to provide a cosy, comfortable stay. While each carriage retains its vintage character, with polished timber, brass fittings, and period furnishings, there is no shortage of comfort – with private en-suites, tea and coffee-making facilities, a small fridge, and air conditioning.

The historic, turn-of-the-century train carriage accommodation at Discovery Resorts – Undara.

 

 

The renovated railway carriage’s en-suite was small but sufficient.

 

There’s something delightfully nostalgic about falling asleep in a train carriage surrounded by the sounds of the Australian bush. It was the best night’s sleep I had all trip!

The railway carriages are not Discovery Resorts – Undara’s only means of accommodation, as they aim to cater to every budget with a variety of options – from Pioneer Huts and homesteads to powered and unpowered sites and swag tents.

Discovery Resorts – Undara doesn’t just stop at accommodation. I had a delicious lunch and dinner at the resort’s fully licensed restaurant, the Fettler’s Iron Pot Bistro. The meals were good country cooking, and the service was excellent.

Please note that all accommodation and dining facilities at Discovery Resorts – Undara are closed from November to March.

Other Things to Do While Staying at Discovery Resorts – Undara

One night’s stay at Discovery Resort – Undara was too short, as I didn’t get the opportunity to explore Undara Volcanic National Park’s walking trails. The resort offers self-guided bushwalking trails that wind through open savannah, leading to scenic viewpoints and wildlife-rich areas.

Also available is the Wildlife at Sunset Tour, where your guide will identify native wildlife and bird species as the outback sky turns fiery red and orange – all while enjoying sparkling wine and nibbles, before heading to the entrance of a lava tube to watch microbats emerge at night.

Don’t leave Undara without trying the resort’s Bush Breakfast served daily at Ringers’ Camp, just a short walk from the resort. Sitting on logs with ingenious cup holders, surrounded by the bush, and watched over by kookaburras, it’s a truly unique experience. Enjoy a continental and cooked buffet-style breakfast, along with freshly boiled billy tea as you toast your own bread over the campfire.

People gather around outdoor open fires and a bar-b-que, boiling tea and cooking breakfast.

The Undara Bush Breakfast – an experience you shouldn’t miss.

 

How to Get There 

Undara Volcanic National Park is located about a 3.5-hour drive southwest of Cairns along the Savannah Way in Tropical North Queensland. The journey itself is part of the adventure, taking you through remote outback scenery and small country towns.

The easiest way to reach Undara is by car, as it gives you the flexibility to explore at your own pace. The road to Undara is sealed all the way from Cairns, Townsville, and Georgetown, suitable for 2WD and 4WD vehicles and towing a caravan. Guided tours and transfers from Cairns are also available through several operators.

I visited Undara as part of APT’s 12-day Savannah Explorer 4WD tour, which follows the Savannah Way from Darwin to Cairns (a reverse trip from Cairns to Darwin is also available) – an excellent option for travellers who prefer a fully guided experience without the hassle of self-driving.

Please note that Discovery Resorts – Undara and the lava tube tours operate seasonally, open from 1 April to 30 October each year. Outside these dates, access to the resort and guided tours is unavailable, so plan your trip accordingly.

When to go 

The Undara Lava Tubes and Discovery Resorts – Undara are open seasonally, from 1 April to 30 October each year. This period corresponds with northern Queensland’s dry season, when the days are typically warm and sunny, humidity is low, and evenings are cooler – ideal for exploring the outback. During these months, roads are easily accessible, tours operate regularly, and walking trails are open.

From November to March, both the resort and lava tube tours close for the wet season, when heavy rainfall makes access difficult.

So, plan your visit between April and October when Undara’s landscapes are at their most inviting and you can fully enjoy both the geological wonders and the unique accommodation.

 

Visiting Undara Volcanic National Park was like uncovering one of Australia’s best-kept natural secrets. Exploring the Undara Lava Tubes showcased the incredible power of the Earth’s ancient forces, while sleeping in a heritage railway carriage at Discovery Resorts – Undara was a unique and nostalgic experience that captured the true spirit of the Australian outback.

Whether you come to marvel at the underground creativity of nature, explore the expansive savannah landscape, or enjoy unusual accommodation, Undara is a destination you shouldn’t miss. It’s a place where Earth’s history meets human ingenuity and where the outback truly comes alive.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025.

 

If you were planning a trip to the Australian outback, would you choose a guided lava tube tour with an overnight stay in a heritage train carriage? Why or why not?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

Like this post? Save it for later! 

an image with two photos: descending wooden steps under a rock arch and a heritage red train carriage.

An image with two photos: a map showing lava tubes and caves and a wodden boaradwalk inside the lava tube.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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A VENETIAN WALKABOUT – How to Spend 5 Perfect Days in Venice, Italy

A Solo Traveller’s Ideal Five-Day Self-Guided Walking Itinerary in Breathtaking Venice.   Updated October 2025:  This is the second major update to this Venice walking guide. What’s new in this…

A Solo Traveller’s Ideal Five-Day Self-Guided Walking Itinerary in Breathtaking Venice.

 

Updated October 2025:  This is the second major update to this Venice walking guide.

What’s new in this update:

  • Improved formatting and tone.
  • Resized images to load quicker and added new photos for inspiration.
  • Fixed broken links and ensured they remained relevant.
  • Included additional information for reader enrichment.

Previous update: August 2020 – for accuracy and comprehensiveness.

 

Venice is a city made for walking. With its car-free streets, maze of canals, and endless bridges, the best way to discover its beauty is on foot. Rather than rushing through the highlights in a single day, I spent five days exploring Venice at a slower pace, uncovering the charm of a different district each day. From the grandeur of San Marco to the lively markets of San Polo, the hidden corners of Cannaregio, the quiet elegance of Castello, and the colourful islands of Murano and Burano, this self-guided walking tour gave me a deeper appreciation of the city.

If you’re planning a trip and want to see both the famous landmarks and Venice’s more authentic side, this 5-day walking itinerary will guide you step by step through the best neighbourhoods, local experiences, and scenic walks.

 

Why Explore Venice on Foot

Venice is one of the most walkable cities in the world. With no cars, scooters, or bicycles allowed, its streets, bridges, and canals form a unique urban landscape where walking isn’t just an option – it’s a necessity. But far from being a limitation, this makes exploring Venice on foot an absolute joy. Every turn uncovers a new treasure: a quiet square, a hidden church, a tiny bridge arching over a narrow canal.

Walking allows you to move at your own pace, pausing to notice the details you might otherwise overlook—like laundry fluttering from a balcony or gondoliers calling out to each other. It’s also the best way to steer clear of the busiest tourist spots and come across authentic Bacari (wine bars) where Venetians gather for cicchetti and spritz.

Choosing a self-guided walking itinerary lets you plan your days around your interests, whether that’s history, food, or photography. It also gives you the freedom to stray from the main routes and explore side streets not found in guidebooks. While vaporetti (waterbuses) are handy for longer distances or visiting the islands, walking truly allows you to feel the city’s rhythm.

If you want to experience Venice beyond postcards, wandering on foot is the best way to connect with its character and charm.

5-Day Self-Guided Walking Tour of Venice

Join me on a relaxed walk around Venice – on a ‘walkabout’ with my camera, feet clad in comfy walking shoes, and curiosity leading the way.

Over four days, my self-guided walk took me on some incredible adventures as I wandered through and explored five of Central Venice’s six districts – San Marco, San Polo and Santa Croce, Cannaregio, and Castello. On the fifth day, I went island hopping to Murano and Burano.

It is possible not to get lost in Venice if you allow yourself just to wander, with only the occasional “Where am I?” moments. The secret is that Venice has become wise with strategically placed signs pointing the way to St. Mark’s Square or the Rialto Bridge, both major landmarks. However, I must confess that I did pull out the map once, in San Polo. I had wandered down so many narrow alleyways that when I entered a tiny courtyard, I didn’t even know which direction I was facing.

The starting point for each day’s walk was my hotel, Hotel da Bruno, in the Castello district. Ideally located in Venice’s historic centre, Hotel da Bruno is the perfect location for exploring Venice on foot. For my review of Hotel da Bruno, see the section, ‘Where I stayed’ at the end of this post.

I explored a different district each day, but you don’t need to follow my self-guided walking itinerary exactly. This post is simply a guide, my footsteps – feel free to explore what interests you, mix things up, or add your own discoveries.

Ready to explore beautiful Venice on foot? Let’s go!

Map of Venice’s six districts. (Wandering Italy)

 

Day 1 – San Marco: The iconic heart of Venice 

San Marco is the most well-known district in Venice. Recognised as the city’s historic and cultural heart, this area is home to the iconic landmarks that symbolise Venice worldwide – Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square), the Basilica di San Marco (St. Mark’s Cathedral), and the Doge’s Palace.

I began my morning wandering through San Marco’s alleyways, crossing some of Venice’s 400 unique bridges, and watching the waters of the canals lap against the doorsteps of buildings in various states of glorious decay. Everywhere I turned, I saw evidence of Venice’s unstable foundations, with lopsided arches and leaning church bell towers – such a photographer’s paradise. I’ve fallen in love with Venice.

Over a coffee in Campo Santa Maria Formosa, I watched canal barges loading linen from hotels and learnt from the waiter that the linen is taken off the islands to the mainland for laundering to prevent pollution of the canals.

Taking in my surroundings from one bridge, I saw a gondola traffic jam and felt glad I was wandering around Venice on foot.

Several gondolas filled with tourist crowded into a small section of a canal that requires the gondoliers to navigate coming and going under a small bridge.

A gondola traffic jam on a Venice canal.

 

Venturing down a very narrow alleyway near Campo Manin, which required me to manoeuvre through like a crab, I came across an unusual building with the most elegant external multi-arch spiral staircase – the 14th-century gothic Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. The staircase, with its ascending rows of round-headed arches, is the only one of its kind in Venice today.

Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo isn’t usually included in city tourist itineraries, but many consider it one of Venice’s hidden gems. It’s a small palace, but absolutely worth a visit.

Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo features its unusual external spiral staircase.

 

Stumbling across Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) for the third time in half an hour, I decided it was time to enjoy a coffee at the iconic Café Florian in St Mark’s Square. Established in 1720, Café Florian is the oldest café in Venice and claims to be the oldest in the world. At the cost of €15 (about AUD 27.00) for my coffee, I knew it was an experience I wouldn’t be repeating.

As I wandered through the Basilica di San Marco (St. Mark’s Cathedral), marvelling at the stunning mosaics and golden arches, I thought about the story I was told involving two merchants from Alexandria, Egypt, who supposedly stole St. Mark’s body and brought it back to Venice. Then there’s the miracle of St. Mark’s body reappearing in 1094 after being destroyed by fire in 976. St. Mark’s body now rests in the Cathedral’s altar.

The stunning interior of St. Mark’s Cathedral – mosaics and golden arches!

 

Walking along the banks of the Grand Canal, I was surprised to see a fireboat rushing past before it disappeared into a side canal. My amazement came from seeing a ‘fire engine’ that was actually a boat, not a large truck. Later, I saw an ambulance navigating through a narrow canal.

Above all, these two scenes clearly showed me how Venice’s waterways serve as a substitute for streets.

Day 2 – San Polo and Santa Croce: Markets, churches, and Venetian life 

The boundaries between San Polo and Santa Croce aren’t as distinct as those of Venice’s other four districts. In fact, they’re so blurred that it was hard to tell which district I was in. So, I’ve grouped them together in this post, as many guidebooks do, creating a manageable area for exploring.

San Polo is Venice’s smallest district, yet one of its liveliest. It is renowned for the Rialto Market, where locals buy fresh fish, fruit, and vegetables in a vibrant, colourful atmosphere.

Fresh fish for sale in Rialto Fish Market, San Polo.

 

Unlike San Polo, Santa Croce is a quieter, less touristy area with hidden squares and local cafés.

A cafe's outsoor seating in a small square is overshadowed by tall buildings.

A local café I stumbled upon while wandering through Santa Croce’s many small, hidden squares.

 

Stepping out of my hotel, I crossed the Grand Canal from San Marco into San Polo via Rialto Bridge – one of the oldest and most photographed bridges spanning the Grand Canal.

A covered bridge spanning Venice's main canal, with buildings lining the canal seen under the bridge.

Venice’s iconic Rialto Bridge spans the Grand Canal between San Marco and San Polo.

 

My first stop this morning was Rialto Market. Markets are a great way to gain insight into the local people, offering a glimpse into their culture. As I wandered around the market’s vegetable section and chatted to the stallholders, I learned that the humble tomato is not so ordinary. Firstly, there are 25 varieties of tomatoes in Italy. Secondly, no self-respecting vendor will sell you tomatoes without knowing what you’re cooking with them. This is important because they all have different tastes and require pairing with the right dish. Only by knowing what dish you’re making can the stall owner recommend the perfect type of tomato. I must admit that my palate doesn’t quite measure up to Venetian standards for tomatoes.

Next on my itinerary after leaving Rialto Market was to find the shop Tragicomica on Calle dei Nomboli, San Polo 2800, as I wanted to buy a traditional Venetian mask. My research back home before heading to Italy had suggested that this was the best shop.

Venice is renowned for its masks, which play a significant role in its history and culture. The tradition dates back to the Middle Ages, when Venetians traditionally used them to conceal social status and identity. Today, Venetian masks are most closely linked with the famous Carnival of Venice and remain highly popular souvenirs for visitors.

My walk to Tragicomica took me past one of Venice’s oldest churches, the San Giacomo di Rialto, with its 15th-century 24-hour clock, and through Campo San Polo (San Polo Square).

With a map of the San Polo district, I had no trouble finding Tragicomica. When I entered the shop, I found it crowded with masks, and I wondered how I’d ever find that special mask with my name on it. After a long chat with Tragicomica’s artisan Mask Maker about the different types of masks and their history, I bought an authentic Venetian papier-mâché Plague Doctor Mask with its long beak-like nose. Doctors would fill the beak with herbs as it was believed this would protect them from the plague.

The Plague Doctor Mask I bought at Tragicomica in San Polo.

 

Sitting in a café opposite the rear of the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, a large Gothic church commonly called the Frari, I enjoyed a relaxing hour watching people go about their business. Even though Eyewitness Travel (Venice) describes the church’s interior as “striking for its sheer size and for the quality of its works of arts”, I didn’t go inside. Instead, I wandered around the church’s exterior, taking photos. The front of the church was very plain, while the rear was much more impressive architecturally.

The rear view of the Gothic church, Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari.

 

Lunch today was at Pizzeria Cico in Campo San Polo – the second largest public square in Venice. The food was edible but ordinary, and the square was plain-featured, but great for people-watching.

Day 3 – Cannaregio: Hidden gems and local life 

Cannaregio is often called Venice’s most authentic district. It’s quieter than San Marco and San Polo, offering a more relaxed pace and a chance to experience the city like a local. One of its notable features is the oldest Jewish Ghetto in the world – a historic area with synagogues, small museums, and charming cafés.

The Campo di Ghetto Nuovo, located in the centre of the Jewish Ghetto, is a small, charming square featuring poignant Holocaust memorials. Uncharacteristically tall buildings, rare in Venice, surround the Campo di Ghetto Nuovo. The Jewish community built these towering structures because they were confined to a tiny area 500 years ago to keep them separate from Venice’s Christian population. As the Jewish community grew and needed more housing, the only option was to build upwards.

The Ghetto’s five synagogues, not visible from the square, date back to the 16th century. Through the Jewish museum’s guided tour, the only way to see these hidden treasures, I discovered three of the five synagogues on the top floors of buildings – the French, German, and Levantine, each representing a different ‘school’.

Back in Campo di Ghetto Nuovo, I reflected on the Holocaust memorials depicting Nazi brutality against Jews during the Second World War.

The Holocaust Memorial on the brick wall in Campo di Ghetto Nuovo, erected in 1980, features seven bronze bas-relief plaques depicting deportation, Kristallnacht (the Night of Broken Glass), the quarry, punishment, execution, the Warsaw Uprising, and the Final Solution. Nine years later, another memorial was added, the Deportation Memorial, also known as “The Last Train.” The names and ages of each victim who was deported are carved on wooden boards behind the Deportation Memorial.

Cannaregio is a top spot for food lovers, with local trattorias and cicchetti bars where you can try Venetian specialities without the tourist crowds.

I had lunch at GAM GAM Kosher Restaurant, located opposite the main entrance of the Jewish Ghetto on the Cannaregio Canal. Sitting outside, it was a fantastic spot for people-watching while enjoying a relaxing meal. I couldn’t resist ordering the house speciality, ‘Israeli Appetisers with Falafel’, served with the most delicious Italian bread. I wasn’t disappointed, and I can honestly say this was the best meal I had in Venice.

Walking back to the hotel along Strada Nova, I took a traghetto (pedestrian transport) across the Grand Canal, disembarking near Rialto Market. Traghetti are cheap ‘pedestrian’ gondola ferries that simply cross the Grand Canal from one side to the other. Unlike private gondola rides, traghetti are basic, hold up to ten passengers, and are rowed by two gondoliers.

There are several points along the Grand Canal where you can catch a traghetto. The fare costs €0.70 for locals and €2 for tourists. The crossing is so brief that locals often stand during the short ride. I sat down! I didn’t trust my balance well enough to avoid ending up in the Grand Canal. Did I save any walking distance? Probably not! But for about six minutes, I felt like a true local and knew I had experienced something special, as tourists don’t usually use this mode of transport.

A traghetto (communal gondola ferry) crossing the Grand Canal.

 

Day 4 – Castello: History and quiet corners 

Castello is Venice’s largest district, bordering Piazza San Marco and extending east to the leafy, modern housing of Sant’Elena. It is home to historical landmarks, such as the Arsenale, which was once the heart of Venice’s naval power.

While mostly disused today and closed to the public except for exhibitions, the Arsenale was once the world’s greatest naval shipyard. An entire galley could be built in 24 hours using an assembly-line process. Two massive lion statues, the symbol of Venice, stand guard at the entrance to the Arsenale. The Naval History Museum, located near the Arsenale, showcases Venice’s past. I found naval personnel to be a common sight around the Castello neighbourhood.

The Arsenale – a complex of former shipyards and armouries.

 

Castello was a lovely area to walk around and didn’t have the tourist crowds that you find in nearby San Marco. My wandering took me to Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, a street lined with restaurants, bars, and cafés. It’s Venice’s widest street because it’s a filled-in canal. Feeling hungry, I stopped for a sandwich and coffee at Hopera Coffee and Bakery on Via Giuseppe Garibaldi.

Heading back towards Piazza San Marco, as I crossed Ponte Canonica, I saw for the first time Venice’s most famous and only covered bridge, the Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri). This small Baroque bridge spans the canal, Rio di Palazzo, between the New Prison in the Castello district and the Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace) in the San Marco district. From Ponte Canonica, I had an unobstructed view of the Bridge of Sighs, allowing my camera to capture the moment.

A Baroque covered bridge between two buildings, with a white church viewed under the bridge.

The Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri) marks the border between the San Marco and Castello districts.

 

After enjoying a coffee and people-watching from Ristorante Carpaccio on Riva degli Schiavoni, Venice’s most famous promenade, I toured the Doge’s Palace and the New Prison. The tour included crossing the Bridge of Sighs. As I walked across the bridge, I sighed, just as legend says the prisoners did when they moved from the interrogation rooms in the Doge’s Palace to their cells or execution in the New Prison. Looking out the windows of the bridge and catching their last glimpse of Venice, they sighed, knowing they’d never walk back the other way. I found out that Casanova was the most famous person to cross the Bridge of Sighs on his way to his prison cell, from which he later escaped.

Near my hotel, there was a gelato shop called Gelatoteca Suso on Calle de la Bissa. Before heading back, I decided to try a gelato, as everyone I met had raved about Venetian gelato and this shop in particular. I’m not a big fan of ice cream or gelato, and this experience didn’t change my mind.

Day 5 – Murano and Burano: Colourful islands beyond Venice 

Before heading off on my trip to Venice, I decided there were two things I wanted to buy – a Venetian mask and Murano glass jewellery. After purchasing my Doctor Plague Mask in the San Polo district on day 2, I ticked that off my shopping list. Now I needed to focus on finding that perfect piece of Murano glass jewellery. The best way to do this was to go to Murano. So, I took a day tour of the Murano and Burano islands. Located in the UNESCO World Heritage Venetian Lagoon, both islands are a short distance from Venice, with Murano being the closest.

Taking a private boat across the Lagoon, our first stop was Murano, renowned worldwide for its glassmaking tradition dating back to 1291. Back then, Venetian glassmakers were forcibly relocated to Murano to prevent devastating fires in the city’s mostly wooden buildings and to control the spread of valuable glassmaking secrets. Woe betide any glassmaker who tried to leave the island. Any attempt to do so would result in severe penalties, including death.

The tour included a visit to a glassmaking workshop and a demonstration by the in-house glass artisans. I always feel it’s a privilege to watch artisans engaged in their craft. After the glassmaking demonstration, we had free time to shop and explore the island at our leisure.

Glassmakers working at their craft at a glassmaking factory on Murano.

 

I was now on a mission – to find that piece of jewellery with my name on it (figuratively speaking). I looked through the showroom attached to the glassmaking workshop, but the jewellery was too glitzy and too fussy for my taste. I couldn’t access other showrooms (hoping to find something more to my liking) as it is only possible to enter a showroom with a tour. With some free time still available, I tried my luck at small, individual jewellery shops. But they offered nothing better. I expressed my bitter disappointment to the tour guide. She offered to take me to a boutique jewellery shop on Burano, where I should find Murano glass jewellery more to my ‘no bling’ taste. Read on to find out why I will be forever grateful to this guide.

Leaving Murano, we headed to Burano. Burano is primarily a fishing village, but it is famous for its brightly coloured houses and rich lacemaking tradition. After a lacemaking demonstration, my guide took me to the shop, Alessandro Tagliapietra Murano Glass Jewels. The owner of this small jewellery shop only sells what he makes. I had a lovely time choosing several pieces of handmade Murano glass jewellery – necklaces and earrings. So, I bought my Murano glass jewellery in Burano – go figure! Now totally satisfied, I wandered around Burano, taking photos of the canals and vibrant houses, chatting with the locals, and gazing at the incredible sight of the 16th-century leaning bell tower of St. Martin’s Church.

Crossing the Venetian Lagoon to Burano, the island’s renowned colourful houses and leaning bell tower come into view.

 

That concludes my self-guided, 5-day walking tour of Venice. Where will your feet carry you next?

Practical Tips for Your Venice Walking Itinerary 

Walking around Venice is magical, but a few practical tips will help you make the most of your 5-day walking tour.

When to go 

I was in Venice in early May. According to the World Weather Organization, the average daytime temperature in Venice during May is 21.5°C (70.7°F), and the average number of rainy days is 8.2.

During my week in Venice, the daily temperature was about 23°C, but it felt warmer. Maybe all that water increases the humidity?

Being my first visit to Venice, and based on what I had read, I expected Venice to be inundated with tourists. I was pleasantly surprised by the reality of crowds in May. Sure, there were many tourists around St. Mark’s Square and Rialto Bridge, but in most other places, I was virtually on my own.

In my opinion, May is a perfect time of year to visit Venice. Not too hot, not too cold, little chance of rain, and fewer crowds.

Getting there and away 

My time alone in Venice came after an eight-day river cruise along the Po River. As a result, I arrived in Venice twice – first at Venice’s Marco Polo International Airport on a flight from Australia to meet the cruise, and then at Pier Marittima 123 at the cruise’s end, where most cruise ships dock.

From Marco Polo Airport, I caught the Alilaguna waterbus (vaporetto) Red Line (Linea Rossa) service to the Arsenale stop, which was the closest stop to where my ship was docked. Using public transport was very straightforward. The Alilaguna waterbus Red Line operates only from April to September. I was in Venice in May. See Alilaguna for lines and timetables throughout the year.

Had I been travelling from the airport to my hotel (Hotel da Bruno), I would have taken an Orange Line vaporetto, alighting at the Rialto stop.

My second arrival in Venice was at Pier Marittima 123. From a nearby canal, I took a water taxi to my hotel (Hotel da Bruno), rather than the vaporetto. The travel guide, Eyewitness Travel, describes water taxis as a means of transportation for those short on time and with a lot of money. While I was neither time-poor nor wealthy, I baulked at the thought of managing my bags through the crowds around Rialto Bridge, especially as I was unsure how far the hotel was from the Rialto stop. So, it was a water taxi! Ninety euros later, the water taxi dropped me off at the canal beside my hotel. I won’t do that again! Knowing now how easy it was to get around Venice by vaporetto, I will only be catching public transport on my next visit to Venice.

From Venice, I caught the train to Rome. A friend advised me to allow an hour and a half to get from my hotel to Venice’s Santa Lucia train station. I don’t know how my friend managed to take that long to reach the station, because it took me at most half an hour to get there. The trip included walking from my hotel to the Rialto vaporetto stop on the Grand Canal and catching the vaporetto to the station, also on the Grand Canal. Dead easy!

Where I stayed 

I stayed at the Hotel da Bruno for my five nights in Venice. This hotel is all about location, location. Being only a 5-minute walk to Rialto Bridge and a 6-minute walk to Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square), it is well-placed to explore all Venice has to offer on foot.

However, I was bitterly disappointed with my room. I had booked a single room and was shocked when I saw it. My room was no bigger than a broom closet. It was dark and dingy, with outdated, tired furniture. The view from my window was of the air shaft. Not a place I wanted to be! I tried to upgrade to a double room, but there were none available. Hotel da Bruno’s only saving grace was its location.

Would I stay at Hotel da Bruno again? Yes. But I would make sure to book a double room. As the saying goes: Better the devil you know than the devil you don’t! And for me, location is key.

Timing your walks 

San Marco is undeniably busy, but visiting early in the morning or in the evening, after the day-trippers have left, offers a more magical experience. Wander off the main tourist paths for quieter canals and piazzas, and explore side streets for enchanting, tucked-away corners.

Staying safe 

Venice is generally safe, but stay alert for pickpockets in crowded areas. Be cautious when walking near canal edges since paths can be narrow and slippery when wet. Read my blog post for detailed tips on staying safe when travelling overseas.

 

Venice is a city best enjoyed slowly, with plenty of time to wander, explore, and stumble across its hidden corners. Over five days, walking through each district gave me the chance to see both the famous sights and the quieter, more genuine parts of the city. From the grandeur of San Marco to the bustling markets of San Polo, the peaceful canals of Cannaregio, the historic elegance of Castello, and the colourful charm of Murano and Burano, each day revealed a different aspect of Venice’s beauty and character. 

A self-guided walking tour allows you to explore at your own pace, take your time wherever you want, and make your own discoveries. It’s not just about ticking off famous sights – it’s about feeling the rhythm of the city, enjoying its food, canals, and lively local scene, and experiencing Venice in a personal, immersive way.

Whether you’re visiting for the first time or returning to the city, taking the time to explore Venice on foot is the best way to truly connect with its rich history, vibrant culture, and unique charm. Follow this 5-day walking itinerary to experience the highlights of each district, and let the magic of Venice unfold one step at a time.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and not sponsored. Unless specifically acknowledged, all photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025. All rights reserved.

 

What’s your favourite “off-the-beaten-path” spot in Venice that you’d recommend to other travellers?

I’d love to hear from you! Have you explored Venice on foot, or are you planning a walking tour of your own? Share your favourite Venetian experiences or the district you’d most like to wander through in the comments below. Your tips, stories, and reflections can help other travellers make the most of their time in this incredible city.

 

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An image with two photos: a small baroque covered bridge between two buildings with tourist gondolas beneath it, and a brick building with an external spiral staircase.

An image with two photos: colourful houses along a boat-lined canal and a covered bridge over a body of water.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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Cave houses are built on top of each other on the side of a hill.

15 PHOTOS TO INSPIRE YOU TO VISIT THE UNIQUE SASSI MATERA, ITALY (2024 Updated). Italy’s Sassi di Matera (Stones of Matera) is a unique and ancient destination of cave dwellings and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This post takes you on a visual journey through the troglodyte settlement of Matera’s Sassi.

 

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025. All rights reserved.

 

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COOL OFF IN TROPICAL PARADISE: 5 Top Swimming Holes Near Cairns

A Traveller’s Guide to Wonderful Swimming Holes in Northern Queensland’s Rainforest.   Cairns may be best known as the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef, but venture inland and you’ll…

A Traveller’s Guide to Wonderful Swimming Holes in Northern Queensland’s Rainforest.

 

Cairns may be best known as the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef, but venture inland and you’ll discover another side of Tropical North Queensland – a lush world of rainforest, waterfalls, and natural swimming holes. With warm, humid weather all year round, there’s nothing more refreshing than plunging into a cool rainforest pool after a morning of exploring.

From volcanic crater lakes to postcard-perfect waterfalls, Tropical North Queensland is dotted with swimming holes that feel like hidden gems. The best part? Many of them are perfect for easy day trips from Cairns. 

During my four days in Cairns, I joined two tours to make the most of my rainforest swims. The Waterfall Wanderers Tour with Cairns Adventure Group took me to Lake Eacham, Millaa Millaa Falls, Josephine Falls, and Babinda Boulders – a full day of rainforest lakes and waterfalls. To round out the experience, I joined the Daintree, Mossman Gorge & Wildlife Tour with Tropic Wings Cairns Tours, which combined swimming at Mossman Gorge with a visit to a wildlife sanctuary and the chance to see one of the world’s oldest rainforests.

 

Why Swim in Tropical North Queensland’s Rainforest?

When most travellers think of Cairns, the Great Barrier Reef usually springs to mind. But venture inland and you’ll find another side of Tropical North Queensland – a lush, green landscape of waterfalls, crystal-clear creeks and rivers, and volcanic crater lakes tucked away in the rainforest. Here, swimming isn’t just about cooling off in the tropical heat; it’s about immersing oneself in nature at its most pristine.

Tropical North Queensland’s rainforest swimming holes are fed by clear mountain streams, shaded by towering trees, and teeming with wildlife – for the first time, I saw a platypus in its natural habitat. You won’t find chlorinated pools or crowded beaches here – instead, you’ll float beneath waterfalls, slide down smooth granite rocks, or wade into calm lakes formed thousands of years ago.

These waterholes also deepen our connection with the land. Some, like Babinda Boulders and Mossman Gorge, are important to Indigenous communities, reminding us to swim with respect and care. Safety remains crucial, as conditions can change rapidly in the tropics. Always follow local signs and advice.

Swimming in Queensland’s tropical rainforest is about more than just taking a dip – it’s an adventure that combines relaxation with the chance to connect with one of the most ancient landscapes on Earth.

The 5 Best Rainforest Swimming Holes Near Cairns

Tropical North Queensland’s rainforest is scattered with natural swimming holes, each offering its own appeal – from peaceful volcanic lakes to tumbling waterfalls and granite-edged gorges. Whether you’re after a refreshing swim, a chance to connect with nature, or that perfect photo spot, these five swimming holes near Cairns showcase some of the region’s top rainforest escapes.

Lake Eacham – A volcanic crater turned crystal-clear oasis

Lake Eacham’s calm, crystal-clear blue waters make it a tranquil, natural swimming spot.

 

Just over an hour’s drive from Cairns, Lake Eacham is part of Crater Lakes National Park and one of the Atherton Tablelands’ most inviting swimming holes. Formed more than 10,000 years ago by a volcanic eruption, this crater lake is now a tranquil pool of deep, clear blue water surrounded by dense rainforest.

The lake’s still surface makes it perfect for a refreshing swim or a leisurely float while soaking up the sounds of the rainforest. Unlike some of the region’s waterfalls, there are no strong currents here – just a peaceful, natural swimming hole to relax and take your time.

Facilities make it easy to enjoy a few hours at Lake Eacham. There’s a grassy picnic spot, toilets, and a shaded walking trail that goes around the lake. With water access points easy to reach, you can step straight in for a swim.

Lake Eacham feels miles from Cairns, but it’s close enough for a relaxed day trip. It’s a spot to unwind, take it easy, and swim in a lake formed by fire but cooled by the rainforest.

Don’t let the freshwater crocodile living in Lake Eacham deter you from swimming. Unlike saltwater crocodiles, freshwater crocodiles are usually shy and don’t threaten humans. However, this croc may become aggressive and cause injury if you threaten it.

Millaa Millaa Falls – Swim beneath Queensland’s most photographed waterfall

Several people swim in the pluge pool created by a waterfall.

Miller Millaa Falls is the most iconic waterfall in Queensland’s Atherton Tablelands and a popular swimming hole.

 

Millaa Millaa Falls is a state heritage-listed postcard-worthy waterfall on Queensland’s Atherton Tablelands. Featuring a stunning, curtain-like 18-metre cascade into a clear, natural pool, and surrounded by lush rainforest, Millaa Millaa Falls is famous for its picturesque beauty and is one of the most photographed waterfalls in Australia. The falls have been used as a backdrop for shampoo and beer ads and featured in the music video for Peter Andre’s “Mysterious Girl”.

The plunge pool at the base of the falls is safe and perfect for a swim. Step in and enjoy the refreshing water, or swim right up to the waterfall’s curtain for a revitalising shower.

Facilities at Millaa Millaa Falls include BBQs, picnic tables, shelters, toilets, and change rooms, making it an ideal stop for a day trip. The car park’s proximity to the falls ensures quick and easy access, allowing visitors to experience this natural wonder without having to walk far.

Josephine Falls – Slide into adventure at nature’s water playground

A multi-tierd waterfall, surrounded by rainforest, tumbles over massive granite boulders.

Josephine Falls is a picturesque, mult-level cascade waterfall in Far North Queensland.

 

Located in Wooroonooran National Park on Josephine Creek, Josephine Falls is the perfect spot for a mix of relaxation and fun. Fed by rainwater from Queensland’s highest peak, Mount Bartle Frere, this multi-tiered waterfall tumbles over massive granite boulders into emerald-green pools surrounded by tropical rainforest.

The lower swimming area is safe, with peaceful pools that are perfect for cooling off. However, the main draw for many visitors is the natural rock slide in the middle tier – a smooth granite slope where you can slide into the pool below. It’s nature’s waterslide, and it makes Josephine Falls one of the most exciting, adrenaline-pumping swimming spots in the region.

From Josephine Falls’ car park, the waterfalls, viewing decks, and swimming areas are accessed via a stunning 700-metre rainforest walk that is a bitumen-paved track and mostly uphill. The track is suitable for prams and wheelchairs.

A word of caution:

Conditions at Josephine Falls can be dangerous, particularly due to sudden flash floods at any time of year, slippery rocks, and submerged objects in the creek. For visitor safety, access to the top section of the falls is prohibited, as serious injuries and fatalities have occurred there. You must observe the signposted restricted access area.

At Josephine Falls, our Cairns Adventure Group tour guide provided a safety briefing before directing our access to the natural rock slide at the middle-tier waterfall.

Babinda Boulders – Sacred waters among giant granite boulders

A waterhole surrounded by rainforest.

A safe swimming spot at Babinda Boulders.

 

Babinda Boulders is a place of both natural beauty and deep cultural significance for the local Aboriginal people. Here, a clear mountain creek winds its way around massive granite boulders, forming natural swimming holes where you can swim in the shadow of rainforest-clad mountains.

The main swimming area is calm and safe, with sandy banks and shady picnic spots – perfect for a relaxed, refreshing dip. But beyond the designated swimming zones, the water flows through narrow chutes and powerful currents, especially around Devil’s Pool, making those areas off-limits.

Local signs and stories tell the Dreamtime legend of the site, reminding visitors of its spiritual significance to the Yidinjy people. Babinda Boulders is a popular swimming hole with a strong sense of place – a reminder to respect the landscape as much as we enjoy it.

A word of caution:

For the second time on this day trip, the Cairns Adventure Group tour guide gave a safety briefing, as Babinda Boulders is more dangerous than Josephine Falls. While it is generally safe to swim at the designated swimming holes, it is essential to be safety-conscious and avoid taking unnecessary risks. Twenty-nine people have died at Babinda Boulders after ignoring warning signs to stay clear of the fast-flowing water and slippery boulders at Devil’s Pool.

Mossman Gorge – A refreshing dip in the heart of the Daintree

People gather on the sandbank along a river, while others swim in the river, which is lined with green trees.

A sandy beach on the Mossman River – a pretty swimming spot in Mossman Gorge.

 

Mossman Gorge offers a rare chance to swim in clear waters, surrounded by the lush greenery of the World Heritage-listed Daintree Rainforest. This ancient rainforest, known for its incredible biodiversity and being one of the oldest ecosystems on Earth, provides a truly unforgettable spot for a refreshing dip. Just outside Port Douglas, this part of the Mossman River is renowned for its cool, clear waters flowing over smooth granite boulders beneath a lush green canopy.

Designated swimming spots along the river let you wade in safely and cool off while surrounded by the sounds of the rainforest. The water here is fresh and invigorating – a welcome relief on a hot, humid day.

Beyond swimming, Mossman Gorge holds deep cultural significance for the Kuku Yalanji people. Visitors arrive through Mossman Gorge Centre, where they can learn about Indigenous traditions or join a guided Dreamtime Walk. It’s a place where a simple swim connects you not only to nature but also to thousands of years of living culture.

Access to the gorge is via a shuttle bus from the Mossman Gorge Centre, with services departing every 15 minutes between 8.00 am and 4.45 pm. Tickets can be bought at the centre or online in advance. This shuttle system helps to protect the natural environment and manage visitor numbers, ensuring a safe and sustainable experience for all.

Practical Information – Planning Your Rainforest Swim

Before you dive into Tropical North Queensland’s rainforest swimming holes, a little planning will make your trip smoother and more enjoyable.

How to get there

You can visit all these swimming holes on day tours from Cairns, which is a convenient option if you prefer not to self-drive. Tours typically combine multiple experiences into a single itinerary, often including transportation, a guide, and sometimes lunch. If you like flexibility, self-driving gives you the freedom to spend as long as you like at each spot.

Distances from Cairns:

  • Lake Eacham = 67 kilometres
  • Millaa Millaa Falls = 101 kilometres
  • Josephine Falls car park = 75 kilometres
  • Babinda Boulders = 65 kilometres
  • Mossman Gorge Centre = 78 kilometres

Best time to go

The dry season (May to October) is the most comfortable time to visit, with warm days, lower humidity, and clear conditions for swimming. The wet season (November to April) brings heavy rain and stronger currents, which can make some spots unsafe, though the waterfalls are at their most dramatic.

Always check local conditions before swimming.

Essentials to bring

  • Swimmers and a towel
  • Hat
  • Sunscreen
  • Sturdy, reliable footwear
  • Drinking water
  • Insect repellent
  • Camera and waterproof phone case

Tour versus independent travel

Day tours are stress-free and great if you’re short on time, as everything is organised for you. Sadly, day tours can often feel rushed. However, with the two tours I took – “Waterfall Wanderers Tour” with Cairns Adventure Group and “Mossman Gorge, Daintree and Wildlife” with Tropic Wings Cairns Tour – the pace was relaxed and unhurried. Self-driving provides more freedom, but it requires careful planning and navigation. Either way, always respect signage, stay in designated swimming spots, and leave no trace behind.

 

Swimming in Tropical North Queensland’s rainforest isn’t just about cooling off – it’s about connecting with an ancient landscape that feels powerful and alive. Each swimming hole I visited had its own character: the calm serenity of Lake Eacham, the picture-perfect plunge at Millaa Millaa Falls, the playful rock slide at Josephine Falls, the sacred beauty of Babinda Boulders, and the crisp mountain waters of Mossman Gorge. 

If I had to choose a favourite, Josephine Falls captured my sense of adventure, while Mossman Gorge connected me with the world’s oldest rainforest. Whichever you visit, you’ll leave with memories of swims unlike anywhere else in the world. 

So pack your swimmers, respect the land and its cultural significance, and get ready to dive into the cool, clear waters of Tropical North Queensland’s rainforest – it’s an experience you won’t forget.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025.

 

If you could add one more Queensland rainforest swimming hole to this list, where would it be?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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An image with two photos: people swimming in a river and people swimming in a waterfall's plunge pool.

An image with two photos: one of a woman cautiously walking across a waterfall's boulder and the other of people swimming in a river in the rainforest.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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STEP BACK IN TIME IN MÉRIDA: See Spain’s Most Impressive Roman Ruins

My Ultimate Photo Guided Walk of the Roman Ruins in Mérida, Spain   Wandering the streets of Mérida, Spain, is like stepping back in time to the height of the…

My Ultimate Photo Guided Walk of the Roman Ruins in Mérida, Spain

 

Wandering the streets of Mérida, Spain, is like stepping back in time to the height of the Roman Empire. Founded in 25 BC as Augusta Emerita, Mérida was one of the most important cities in Roman Hispania, and today it is home to some of the most extensive and best-preserved Roman ruins in Spain. Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the city is a treasure trove of ancient monuments, including a spectacular Roman theatre, a grand amphitheatre, the Temple of Diana, the Arch of Trajan, and one of the longest surviving Roman bridges in the world. 

This guide to walking around the Roman ruins of Mérida provides a self-guided itinerary allowing you to explore the city’s most iconic ancient sites on foot. Whether you’re a history buff, an architecture enthusiast, or a photographer, this Mérida walking tour offers an unforgettable journey through temples, arches, bridges, and archaeological treasures. 

Lace up your walking shoes, grab your camera, and discover why Mérida is one of the must-visit destinations in Spain for anyone fascinated by ancient history.

 

Why Visit the Roman Ruins of Mérida, Spain – A UNESCO World Heritage City

If you’re keen to experience the grandeur of ancient Rome without leaving Spain, Mérida is the place to visit. The city, known as Augusta Emerita, was founded by Emperor Augustus in 25 BC as the capital of the Roman province of Lusitania. Its strategic position on the banks of the Guadiana River made it a hub for trade, governance, and military activity in the Western Roman Empire.

Today, Mérida is the capital of the Extremadura region in western Spain, a vibrant modern city with around 60,000 residents. Yet, it retains the feel of an open-air museum because of its remarkable collection of Roman monuments, which earned the city UNESCO World Heritage status in 1993. Here, you can stand in the same amphitheatre where gladiators once fought, walk across a two-thousand-year-old bridge, and marvel at temples, arches, and mosaics that have survived centuries of change – all within the city centre.

Unlike many archaeological sites tucked away in remote locations, Mérida’s treasures are woven into the fabric of the modern city. You can easily explore them on foot, allowing you to immerse yourself in history at every turn – whether you’re wandering past the Temple of Diana, stopping at the Arch of Trajan, or enjoying the sweeping views from the Roman Theatre’s stone seats.

With its mix of ancient history, walkable streets, and easy access, Mérida provides travellers a rare opportunity to immerse themselves in the Roman world without leaving the Iberian Peninsula.

How to See the Roman Ruins of Mérida on a Self-Guided Walking Tour

One of the best things about visiting Mérida, Spain, is how compact and walkable the historic centre is. Most of the city’s Roman monuments are within a short stroll of each other, making it easy to explore at your own pace without needing a bus tour or guide.

A self-guided walking tour lets you set your own schedule, linger at your favourite spots, and take photos without being rushed. You’ll be able to follow the city’s ancient story as you move from one site to the next, with each stop revealing a new layer of its Roman past.

Begin your walk at the Roman Theatre and Amphitheatre, the city’s most famous landmarks. From there, you can follow a logical loop that takes in temples, arches, bridges, and archaeological sites before finishing at the National Museum of Roman Art (highly recommended).

Mérida’s Roman Ruins Walking Route Map. (Map data @2025 Google)

 

Many of Mérida’s Roman sites are included in a combined ticket available from the theatre’s entrance or other major monuments. This pass is an excellent value if you plan to see multiple attractions in one day. Some sites, such as the Roman Bridge, Trajan’s Arch, and the Temple of Diana, are free to visit at any time.

Spending four to six hours allows for a relaxed visit to the main Roman ruins, including time for photos, breaks, and lunch. However, I strongly recommend staying at least one night in Mérida. Several of the ruins – such as the Roman Theatre, the Roman Bridge, and the Temple of Diana – are illuminated at night, offering breathtaking views that warrant a second visit.

For something truly special, the International Classical Theatre Festival of Mérida takes place annually from June to August. During the festival, the Roman Theatre serves as the stage for a variety of theatrical productions, where performances are held every night, in the same place they were held more than two thousand years ago.

A play staged on an ancient Roman theatre.

I was fortunate to be in Mérida during the city’s Classical Theatre Festival and saw a night performance at the over 2000-year-old Roman Theatre.

 

What to See in Mérida – A Step-by-Step Walking Itinerary

Exploring Mérida’s UNESCO-listed Roman heritage is best done on foot, with each site just a short walk from the next. This self-guided walking route begins at the Roman Theatre, Mérida’s most iconic monument in the city. It winds for about three kilometres through plazas, streets, and riverside paths to Mérida’s most impressive Roman ruins without doubling back. Along the way, you’ll see ancient arches, weathered colonnades, magnificent mosaics, and dramatic ruins as you explore from site to site, showcasing the city’s rich Roman past.

Each monument shares its story, showing how Mérida once thrived as an imperial capital. This itinerary features all the must-see spots, making sure you don’t miss any marvels as you delve into the city’s rich mix of history and architecture.

Roman Theatre – Spain’s most iconic ancient landmark

The Roman Theatre is Mérida’s most visited monument. It is a true treasure that will transport you back to ancient Lusitania.

 

The Roman Theatre is Mérida’s most celebrated archeological landmark and one of the finest surviving theatres of the ancient world. Constructed around 16-15 BC, this remarkably well-preserved theatre could seat 6,000 spectators. In its day, it was the centre for drama, music, political speeches, and public gatherings, reflecting the cultural sophistication of Roman Augusta Emerita. It is still used for performances during Mérida’s Classical Theatre Festival.

The theatre’s most striking feature is its two-tiered stage backdrop, decorated with marble columns and statues of Roman gods and emperors. The seating area is carved into the hillside, providing excellent acoustics.

Roman Amphitheatre – gladiators and games

Mérida’s Roman Amphitheatre hosted gladiatorial fights and battles between men and beasts or between beasts themselves.

 

Next to the Roman Theatre is the Roman Amphitheatre, where gladiators once fought each other and wild animals for public entertainment. Built in 8 BC, with an oval shape typical of Roman amphitheatres, it could hold about 15,000 spectators.

The arena floor once featured a wooden platform covering an underground passage where fighters and animals waited their turn in the spotlight. Today, excavated sections of the arena reveal the central pit used in these spectacles. The stone seating tiers, though partly eroded, still rise in a semicircle, providing a sense of scale to the venue.

House of the Amphitheatre – Roman villas, mosaics, and gardens

This intricate mosaic floor in the House of the Amphitheatre is thought to be in the house’s dining room.

 

The House of the Amphitheatre is one of Mérida’s most fascinating archaeological sites, offering an intimate glimpse into the lives of wealthy Romans nearly 2,000 years ago. Situated just outside the Roman Amphitheatre, this extensive residential complex spans from the end of the 3rd century BC to the beginning of the 5th century AD, showcasing the architectural sophistication of the period.

Excavations have uncovered stunning mosaic floors, detailed wall paintings, and rooms arranged around a central colonnaded courtyard. Evidence of an underfloor heating system in the private baths highlights the owner’s high social status. Archaeologists believe it was home to an influential family, possibly linked to the city’s entertainment or political elite.

An archaeological excavation of a Roman house.

In the House of the Amphitheatre, rooms are arranged around a central colonnaded courtyard.

 

Portico of the Forum – the Roman Forum’s grand entrance

The Portico of the Forum with its distinctive Corinthian columns.

 

Once the entrance to the Roman Forum, the Portico of the Forum serves as a reminder of Mérida’s role as the administrative hub of the Roman province of Lusitania. Constructed in the 1st century AD, this colonnaded portico once stood in front of the forum’s main square, flanked by statues of gods, emperors, and dignitaries. Although only part of the portico remains, its Corinthian columns and fragments of decorative reliefs still reflect the grandeur of Roman civic architecture.

Temple of Diana – a must-see Roman monument in the city centre

The Temple of Diana stands in the heart of Mérida’s historic centre.

 

Dating back to the 1st century AD and once dominating the city’s forum, the Temple of Diana is one of the best-preserved Corinthian temples in the Iberian Peninsula. Despite its name, it wasn’t dedicated to the goddess Diana but served as the imperial cult’s temple, honouring the emperor as a god.

In the 16th century, a palace was incorporated into the temple, leaving the Corinthian columns in their original rectangular formation.

Arch of Trajan – gateway to the ancient city

A stone arch over a street.

The Arch of Trajan, taken at night on my walk back to my hotel.

 

Standing at a height of 15 metres, Trajan’s Arch was neither a triumphal arch nor dedicated to the emperor Trajan. It was the monumental gateway to the sacred district that surrounded the Imperial cult temple (the Temple of Diana). Built in the late 1st or early 2nd century AD, it served as a grand entrance to the forum.

Now devoid of its marble cladding, its massive granite blocks still convey a sense of imperial grandeur.

Archaeological Zone of Morerías – layers of history by the river

An archaeological excavation of a Roman house.

A Roman house with marble floors in the Archaeological Zone of Morerías along Mérida’s Guadiana River.

 

The Archaeological Zone of Morerías lies beneath an apartment building along the Guadiana River. It provides a unique insight into Mérida’s layered history. Here, Roman streets, houses, and workshops coexist with later Visigothic and Moorish structures. The site spans several centuries of occupation, illustrating the city’s evolution after the fall of the Roman Empire. The visible urban layout, with its well-preserved stonework and walls, makes it easy to imagine daily life in this multi-era riverside district.

Elevated walkways allow you to view the site’s complexity from a bird’s-eye perspective.

An ancient Roman stone street.

A Roman street in the Archaeological Zone of Morerías.

 

Roman Bridge over the Guadiana River – the longest surviving Roman bridge

The view of Mérida’s ancient Roman Bridge from the Alcazaba best captures its length as it spans the Guadiana River.

 

Mérida’s Roman Bridge over the Guadiana River was built in the 1st century BC. At a length of 792 metres and with 60 arches, it is one of Spain’s longest bridges and the longest surviving Roman bridge in the world. It was a vital crossing of the Guadiana River and a strategic artery for Roman trade and military movement.

Having carried road traffic for most of its life, it was converted into a pedestrian-only bridge in 1991.

Alcazaba of Mérida – Moorish fortress built on Roman foundations

Although the Alcazaba of Mérida looks entirely Moorish, much of its core fabric is Roman in origin, as Roman materials were reused when the Muslims built the fortress in 835 AD. As you explore the Alcazaba, keep an eye out for these Roman features:

  • Roman walls and foundations,
  • Roman road,
  • Roman water cistern, and
  • Roman stones in the fortress walls.

Climb its walls for panoramic views of the Guadiana River and the Roman Bridge.

National Museum of Roman Art in Mérida – Mosaics, Sculptures, and Artefacts

No visit to Roman Mérida is complete without stepping inside the National Museum of Roman Art, an archaeological museum conveniently located next to the Roman Theatre and Amphitheatre complex. Designed by Spanish architect Rafael Moneo and inaugurated in 1986, the museum is an architectural masterpiece in its own right – its soaring brick arches deliberately echo the grandeur of Roman design while offering a modern, light-filled space.

Spread over three floors, inside you’ll find one of the world’s most extensive collections of Roman mosaics, alongside sculptures, tombstones, ceramics, paintings, coins, glassware, and everyday objects excavated from Mérida’s Roman sites.

It is at the National Museum of Roman Art where Mérida’s story comes full circle—linking the ruins you’ve just wandered through with the people who once called them home.

Paintings in the National Museum of Roman Art that decorated the balustrade of the podium of Mérida’s Roman amphitheatre.

 

How to Get to Mérida

Mérida’s central location in Spain’s Extremadura region makes it easily accessible by train, bus, or car from Madrid or Seville.

To travel from Madrid to Mérida, take a Renfe train (approximately four hours) or a bus with Avanza Grupo (around five hours), both of which offer direct services.

To travel from Seville to Mérida, take a Renfe train (approximately three and a half hours) or a bus with ALSA (approximately two to three hours).

Driving gives you the most flexibility and allows you to explore Extremadura’s smaller towns and countryside. The road distance from Madrid to Mérida is 341 kilometres, while the distance from Seville to Mérida is 192 kilometres.

 

Walking through Mérida’s Roman ruins is like stepping back in time. From the grandeur of the theatre and amphitheatre to the quiet beauty of mosaics at the House of the Amphitheatre, every site uncovers a different chapter of life in one of the Roman Empire’s most significant provincial capitals. Few places in the world offer such a well-preserved collection of Roman monuments in a compact, walkable city.

Whether you’re a history enthusiast, photographer, or curious traveller, Mérida offers a memorable journey through layers of history that still shape the city today. Its UNESCO World Heritage status is well deserved – it’s a living museum where Roman roads, arches, bridges, and temples still shape the urban landscape.

So, if you’re planning a trip through Extremadura or southern Spain, make sure to set aside at least one day, preferably two, to explore Mérida on foot.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025.

 

Which Roman site in Mérida would you photograph first? Let me know in the comments!

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An image with two photos: a Roman theatre and a Roman arch over a street.

An image with two photos: an ancient Roman bridge and an illuminated Roman temple.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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