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PORT ARTHUR AND SARAH ISLAND: Tasmania’s Two Harshest Convict Settlements

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Port Arthur and Sarah Island, Tasmania’s Brutal Penal Colonies, Defined the Harsh Extremes of British Punishment. Visiting Both Sites is a Journey into Australia’s Darkest Colonial History and an Experience…

Port Arthur and Sarah Island, Tasmania’s Brutal Penal Colonies, Defined the Harsh Extremes of British Punishment. Visiting Both Sites is a Journey into Australia’s Darkest Colonial History and an Experience You Won’t Forget Anytime Soon.

 

Two remote locations in Tasmania once struck fear into the hearts of transported convicts. One was situated on a narrow peninsula guarded by water, soldiers, and dogs, while the other lay isolated in a vast harbour surrounded by dense wilderness. For prisoners sent to these settlements, life involved relentless labour, harsh punishment, and little hope of escape. Today, visitors can explore the haunting remains of these infamous penal settlements at Port Arthur Historic Site and Sarah Island. Together, they reveal some of the darkest chapters of Australia’s convict history.

 

Tasmania is home to some of Australia’s most formidable convict sites. Still, none are more notorious than Port Arthur on the Tasman Peninsula and Sarah Island on the remote west coast. Both places were established as destinations for convicts deemed beyond reform, and both have come to represent the brutality of Australia’s convict past.

I visited both Port Arthur and Sarah Island. Although they are separated by distance and share a reputation as the country’s two harshest penal establishments, the experiences of each couldn’t be more different. One is set in a peaceful coastal bay, carefully preserved and thoughtfully interpreted. The other lies isolated in the wild waters of Macquarie Harbour, where the rainforest and silence are slowly reclaiming the ruins.

Visiting these two sites reveals more than historical facts. It exposes a history of systematic cruelty intended to break even the most defiant prisoners. In this post, I explore the histories of Port Arthur and Sarah Island, what life was like for the convicts imprisoned there, and why seeing them both offers a powerful and sobering insight into Australia’s convict past.

Convict Transportation to Tasmania

Between 1788 and 1868, over 162,000 British and Irish convicts were transported to Australia as punishment, mostly for theft, to relieve overcrowded prisons and to support the settlement of the new territory. Around 73,000 to 76,000 convicts were sent to Van Diemen’s Land (now Tasmania), where they provided labour for a growing settlement.

Most convicts worked as forced labourers for free settlers or on government infrastructure projects, such as roads, bridges, and public buildings. However, those who reoffended or resisted authority could be sent to harsher punishment settlements. These secondary penal establishments were designed to break even the most defiant prisoners. Two of the harshest were Port Arthur and Sarah Island.

Port Arthur vs Sarah Island: A Quick Overview

At a glance, Port Arthur and Sarah Island might seem similar: both are historic convict settlements, UNESCO-listed sites, and key stops for those interested in Tasmania’s history. However, in reality, the visitor experience is markedly different.

Port Arthur is expansive, accessible, and highly interpreted. Visitors move along well-marked paths, through restored buildings and curated ruins, supported by signage, audio guides, and guided tours.

Sarah Island, by contrast, feels raw and unresolved, with an unsettling, brooding atmosphere. There are no reconstructed buildings and little interpretation on the island itself. The ruins sit quietly among dense vegetation, and the island’s story must be pieced together through imagination and the tales told by tour guides.

Sarah Island: Hell on Earth

Getting to Sarah Island

Sarah Island lies in the middle of Macquarie Harbour, at the mouth of the Gordon River on Tasmania’s remote west coast. It can only be visited by boat from the small town of Strahan, as it is not accessible by land. I visited Sarah Island on a guided tour with World Heritage Cruises.

As Strahan faded into the distance and the harbour widened, it was easy to see why Sarah Island was chosen as a penal settlement. Distance, water, and wilderness combine to create a sense of isolation that no walls could ever replicate.

Sarah Island sits in an isolated position in Macquarie Harbour.

 

A punishment within a punishment

Sarah Island, Tasmania’s oldest convict settlement, operated from 1822 to 1833 and was the most feared place of banishment for Australian convicts. It was intended as a harsh punishment for re-offending convicts who committed further crimes after arriving in the Australian colonies. Its inmates were regarded as the most hardened, troublesome, and dangerous within the transportation system – the worst of the worst. To be assigned to Sarah Island was to be told, in the clearest possible terms, that the authorities had given up on you.

Meant to strike fear into the hearts of convicts and described as ‘Hell on Earth’, the conditions lived up to that label. Convicts cut down Huon pine in the surrounding rainforest and hauled it back to the island’s shipyard, working in freezing water for hours on end. Huon pine was highly prized for shipbuilding, and Sarah Island became Australia’s most productive shipyard of its era. But labour was harsh, rations were minimal, and floggings were relentless. Even by the punishing standards of the time, Sarah Island’s commandants were known for their brutality.

Situated on the far western edge of today’s Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, with its seemingly impenetrable mountainous wilderness, the authorities believed escape from Sarah Island was impossible. They were wrong!

The information board listing convicts’ escape attempts from Sarah Island.

 

A short play, ‘The Ship That Never Was’, performed every evening for the past 28 years for visitors in Strahan, recounts the remarkable 1834 escape of ten convicts who hijacked the brig the Frederick and sailed it to Chile, arriving six weeks later. They were captured two years later by the British Navy and sent back to Hobart. The play’s title comes from the escapees’ argument at trial for piracy – that they hadn’t committed piracy because the Frederick had not been officially launched when they stole it, and therefore was not a legal ship. They were ultimately found guilty of piracy – a hanging offence – but not sentenced to death. They were transported to the notorious Norfolk Island penal settlement.

What remains of Sarah Island

Little remains of the original settlement, except for scattered foundations and ruins of the military barracks, bakehouse oven, solitary confinement gaol, and the commandant’s house. The island feels abandoned, with an eerie atmosphere I can only attribute to the ‘ghosts’ of the past.

The guide’s dramatic stories of convicts, punishments, and daring escapes, laced with a necessary interpretation of what we were seeing, were the only thing that gave any depth to the site’s history.

Standing among the remnants of Sarah Island’s convict settlement, I found it impossible to reconcile the wild beauty of the harbour surrounding the island and the lush rainforest encroaching on it with the cruelty that once occurred here.

Sarah Island was ultimately closed in 1833 because its remote location made supplying the settlement difficult and expensive. Its convicts were transferred directly to Port Arthur.

Port Arthur: A Harsh Penal Settlement on the Tasman Peninsula

Overview of Port Arthur 

The Penitentiary at Port Arthur Historic Site.

 

Arriving in Port Arthur is unsettling. How can an undeniably beautiful setting of rolling, tree-covered hills, pretty gardens, and expansive lawns on the calm shores of Carnarvon Bay be home to a history of harsh punishment?

Set on the isolated Tasman Peninsula, Port Arthur operated as a penal settlement from 1830 to 1877. Surrounded by water and linked to the mainland by the narrow Eaglehawk Neck land bridge, the site was chosen for its natural security. It quickly became one of the most significant penal settlements in Australia, housing approximately 12,500 convicts over its lifetime, and one of the most ambitious penal experiments in the world.

Port Arthur is surrounded by water and tree-covered rolling hills.

 

Today, it is the best-preserved convict settlement in Australia and a UNESCO World Heritage site, just 90 minutes from Hobart.

Port Arthur is a large site spanning more than 40 hectares, with more than 30 historic buildings, extensive ruins, and beautiful grounds and gardens to explore. Allow several hours for your visit, or better still, at least one day. On a coach tour of Tasmania, I spent four hours at Port Arthur, including a guided tour, a 20-minute cruise on the bay, and some free time. I felt rushed and disappointed that I couldn’t do the site justice.

The architecture of control

Port Arthur was not just a prison but a self-contained system built entirely around control. The peninsula itself, with the narrow land bridge at Eaglehawk Neck patrolled by guards and starved dogs, served as a security measure, making escape impossible. However, during the guided walking tour, the guide shared stories of the lengths convicts went to escape from Port Arthur.

Like Sarah Island, Port Arthur was intended for repeat offenders and those who committed crimes after arriving in the colonies. Convicts performed hard labour, discipline was strict, and punishments could be severe. Floggings with the cat-o’-nine-tails, witnessed by all prisoners, were the main punishment in the prison’s early years.

Floggings stopped completely in the late 1840s due to penal reforms that resulted in the most chilling innovation known as the “separate system”. The theory held that solitude would encourage reflection and reform.

In line with this new theory, one of Port Arthur’s most notorious features was the establishment of the Separate Prison in 1848, based on a system of silence and isolation. Here, prisoners were subjected to psychological rather than physical punishment, with the intent of breaking them mentally.

Port Arthur’s Separate Prison, where psychological torture was intended to reform inmates.

 

Prisoners were kept in total silence, forbidden from speaking or communicating. Hoods were worn whenever they were outside their cells to prevent identification, and they were addressed only by number. They attended the chapel, seated in individual booths where they could see only the chaplain. The system was designed for mental subjugation, but it often drove prisoners psychotic. The psychological torture was so successful at dehumanising prisoners that an asylum was built near the Separate Prison to house those who broke under these conditions.

Visiting Port Arthur today

The entry ticket to Port Arthur Historic Site is valid for two consecutive days. It includes interactive experiences in the Visitor Centre, an introductory walking tour, guided talks across the site, a harbour cruise, a self-guided audio experience, the museum, and access to more than 30 historic buildings, ruins, restored houses, heritage gardens, and walking trails.

One of Port Arthur’s greatest strengths is the way its history is interpreted. Information boards, audio guides, and guided talks provide context that turns the ruins into stories, bringing the settlement to life.

Unlike Sarah Island, where the visitor is left to imagine what happened there, Port Arthur names individuals, explains systems, and situates punishment within the broader thinking of the time. As I wandered among the buildings and ruins, it was easy to visualise the lives of the convicts who once suffered here. A sobering experience!

Port Arthur’s Memorial Garden

The Memorial Garden commemorates the victims of Australia’s worst mass murder, which occurred at Port Arthur on 28 April 1996. It led to legislative change in the nation’s gun ownership laws.

The garden, created as a place of remembrance and quiet reflection, incorporates the remains of Port Arthur’s Broad Arrow Cafe, where 20 people were killed in the massacre, a tranquil pool, and a memorial cross inscribed with the names of the 35 visitors and staff who lost their lives.

The memorial cross in Port Arthur’s Memorial Garden.

 

Visiting Port Arthur and Sarah Island is not about ticking off historic sites but about stepping into one of the harshest chapters of Australia’s history. It’s a journey that confronts a shared past told in two very different voices. Port Arthur explains, contextualises, and names the systems that shaped convict punishment, while Sarah Island leaves much unsaid, forcing visitors to sit with discomfort and imagine the lives deliberately broken here. Together, they reveal how far the British penal system was prepared to go to maintain control and how the environment itself was used as a weapon of punishment.

What stayed with me most was the contrast between beauty and brutality. Calm waters, landscaped grounds, and lush rainforests sit uneasily alongside stories of intentional isolation, enforced silence, psychological torture, and harsh labour. Walking through these places is sobering, not only because of what happened there, but because it’s impossible to fully reconcile the serenity of their settings with the suffering they once held.

I strongly encourage visiting both sites in a single trip, rather than choosing one over the other. Sarah Island and Port Arthur are not simply variations on the same theme. They represent different philosophies of punishment, distinct moments in colonial history, and unique relationships with the Tasmanian landscape. Seen together, they offer a powerful insight into Tasmania’s convict past and the stories of those who lived it. Seeing only one gives you half the story.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2026.

 

Have you ever visited two historic sites linked by the same story, yet experienced them in completely different ways? Which one stayed with you the most, and why?

I’d love to hear your story. Share it in the comments below.

 

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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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© Just Me Travel 2018-2026. All rights reserved.

 

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SPECTACULAR NORTHERN ETHIOPIA: A Photo Travel Guide from Lalibela to Lake Tana

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Ancient Churches Carved from Rock, Dramatic Highland Landscapes and Centuries of Living History. This Photo-Rich Travel Guide Captures Northern Ethiopia Through My Lens – One of Africa’s Most Captivating Regions….

Ancient Churches Carved from Rock, Dramatic Highland Landscapes and Centuries of Living History. This Photo-Rich Travel Guide Captures Northern Ethiopia Through My Lens – One of Africa’s Most Captivating Regions.

 

This photo travel guide traces my journey through Northern Ethiopia, including the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela and Tigray, the castles of Gondar, Lake Tana, the ruins of Axum, and the Simien Mountains, capturing moments of history, culture, and landscape through the lens. Each image reflects a region shaped by time, belief, and place – one of the world’s oldest and most compelling travel experiences.

 

Ethiopia, officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia, is a landlocked country in the Horn of Africa, bordered by six countries. It is a spiritually and historically rich country known for its ancient civilisations, strong cultural identity, and dramatic landscapes. Often called the cradle of humankind, it is home to important archaeological discoveries and has preserved its traditions, making it one of the few African nations never formally colonised.

Ethiopia is known for its welcoming people, distinctive cuisine, ancient monasteries, and for being the birthplace of coffee.

Northern Ethiopia captures the essence of the country’s ancient soul. As the heartland of Ethiopia’s earliest civilisations, the north is where history, faith, and dramatic landscapes come together most powerfully. Often described as the cradle of Ethiopian civilisation, this region is home to some of Africa’s most important archaeological, religious, and cultural sites – many of which are UNESCO World Heritage-listed.

My two weeks exploring Northern Ethiopia were a journey through one of Africa’s most extraordinary and least understood regions. While tourists flock to East Africa’s savannahs or Egypt’s pyramids, Ethiopia’s historical heartland remains quietly magnificent, with rock-hewn churches carved into mountain cliffs, ancient obelisks marking the ruins of mighty empires, and castles that seem transplanted from medieval Europe to the African highlands.

Northern Ethiopia is where human civilisation gave birth to Lucy, our 3.2-million-year-old ancestor. It’s where one of the world’s oldest Christian traditions has thrived uninterrupted for nearly 2,000 years, developing its own distinctive expression through art, architecture, and ritual. It’s where landscapes shift from the jagged peaks of the Simien Mountains to the vast expanse of Lake Tana, from the thundering Blue Nile Falls to the quiet pride of ancient Axum.

This was no easy journey, as reaching some of Tigray’s cliff churches required scrambling up rock faces, and the roads between destinations tested both stomachs and suspension systems. But it was precisely this remoteness, this sense of stepping off the well-worn tourist trail, that made every moment feel like a discovery. This is the story of that journey, from the rock-hewn wonders of Lalibela to the bustling streets of Addis Ababa, through a land where history isn’t preserved behind museum glass but lives and breathes in daily practice.

The Destinations: A Journey Through the North

Lalibela: Ethiopia’s Sacred City Carved from Rock

Lalibela is situated high in the Lasta Mountains at an elevation of 2,600 metres, surrounded by picturesque valleys.

Mountains surround farming land.

Lalibela is enclosed by the towering Lasta Mountains range, the third-highest range in Ethiopia.

 

Famous for its incredible 11 monolithic churches, carved downward into solid volcanic rock in the 12th and 13th centuries by King Lalibela, with roofs at ground level, Lalibela is unlike anywhere else in the world.

A complex system of narrow tunnels and passageways connects the churches. It was like a rabbit warren, creating a sense of mystical adventure as I moved from one church to another. At times, I felt like I was playing Indiana Jones as I traversed passageways that spanned sheer drops.

Each church has its own resident monk, and shoes must be removed before entering. In the end, I stopped tying my shoelaces.

King Lalibela “built” the churches to create a “New Jerusalem” for Christian pilgrims after Muslim leader Saladin captured Jerusalem, making access to the Holy Land difficult, and to rival Axum, home to the Ark of the Covenant. It is said that the king built the churches with roofs at ground level to hide them from his enemies.

Set apart from the rest of Lalibela’s churches, the iconic Biete Giyorgis (Church of Saint George), named after Ethiopia’s patron saint, is the most famous of Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches. Carved from a single block of volcanic rock in the shape of a Greek cross, to a depth of over 12 metres, this subterranean church is accessible via tunnels.

Biete Giyorgis (St George’s Church) has become an icon of Ethiopia.

 

Looking down on a rock-hewn church with a man in a white robe looking in a doorway.

Biete Giyorgis represents the spiritual heart of Ethiopia.

 

There are two versions of Biete Giyorgis’ history: one says it was built by King Lalibela’s widow after his death (about 1220). The other claim is that King Lalibela promised to build a church to Saint George, who was upset that there was no church dedicated to him.

Lalibela is not just a historical site but a living testament to Ethiopian faith, where worship has continued as it has for centuries, not staged for visitors. It is a vital pilgrimage centre for the Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church and home to more than 1,000 priests.

Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches are often called the Eighth Wonder of the World for their unique architecture and are also a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The journey north from Lalibela to Tigray brings a striking change in landscape. From Lalibela’s rugged Ethiopian Highlands, with volcanic hills and deep valleys, to Tigray’s more dramatic landscape, characterised by towering sandstone ridges, cliffs, and plateaus, interspersed with farming communities.

Round-shaped mountains and farming land.

The Gheralta Mountain range in Ethiopia’s Tigray region is home to some of the country’s oldest churches.

 

The Rock-Hewn Churches of Tigray: Sacred Sanctuaries in the Sky

The most iconic feature of Tigray’s Gheralta Mountains is the ancient rock-hewn churches carved by monks centuries ago directly into cliff faces, often requiring challenging climbs to reach but creating unique architectural marvels.

Tigray has 120 rock-hewn churches, dating from the 4th to the 6th century and still in use today. Unlike Lalibela’s churches, Tigray’s are carved directly into the cliff walls of the Amba Mountains – flat-topped mountains with almost vertical sides – or perched atop sheer-sided plateaus, making them difficult to access.

The Tigray churches are semi-monolithic. That is, they are partially excavated from a rock face or cliff and also feature constructed elements, such as masoned walls, or carved from caves.

Abreha We Atsbeha Church, which was relatively easy to reach, is widely regarded by experts as the finest church in Tigray. It was larger than any I saw in Lalibela, and its medieval frescoes depicting biblical scenes are remarkably well preserved.

Abreha We Atsbeha Church, viewed from the base of the hill.

 

Religious scenes painted on walls inside a church.

Well-preserved murals inside the ancient rock-hewn Abreha We Atsbeha Church.

 

The second Tigray church I visited was Wukro Chirkos Church, which was also easily accessible. It is a semi-monolithic cruciform-shaped church that has been in continuous use for over 1,600 years.

Wukro Chirkos Church is a historic rock-hewn church, dating back to the 4th century.

 

Wukro Chirkos Church’s murals of saints were blackened by fire centuries ago.

 

There was one more church on the itinerary to visit, but there was no way I was going to climb to churches that demanded hugging rock faces!

The drive from Tigray’s sky-high churches to Axum, Ethiopia’s ancient capital, was a journey through spectacular scenery at every turn.

Flat-top mountains with farming land on top and deep valleys.

I never tired of seeing and photographing northern Ethiopia’s ever-changing landscape.

 

Axum: Birthplace of Ancient Civilisation

Axum is where Ethiopian civilisation began and is one of Ethiopia’s most important historical sites. It was the powerful capital of the ancient Axumite Kingdom, which, between the 1st and 8th centuries CE, rivalled Rome and Persia as a significant trading empire.

Today, Axum is home to extraordinary archaeological treasures and sacred sites, including the stelae field, the palace ruins associated with the Queen of Sheba, and the Church of St. Mary of Zion, which is believed to house the Ark of the Covenant.

Axum’s most recognisable landmarks are its towering granite stelae in the Northern Stelae Field. These ancient obelisks, carved from a single piece of stone and some over 20 metres tall, mark the tombs of kings and nobles. The engraved stelae mark the graves of the kings of the Axumite dynasty, while the unengraved stelae mark the graves of nobles.

Not all stelae have stood the test of time. The collapse of one king’s stela enabled exploration of the tomb’s interior, a labyrinth of tunnels and rooms.

Tall engraved and non-engraved obelisks, with a collasped stelae in the foreground.

The Northern Stelae Field, Axum – the graveyard markers of Axumite kings and nobles.

 

Also located in the Northern Stelae Field is the Edna Iyesus Church (Church of St Jesus), an ancient, historically significant church known for its stunning, vibrant religious murals.

Among the most notable paintings are those depicting Mary and Child, saints and apostles, and St George slaying the dragon.

The stories and characters of the Bible come alive on the walls of Edna Iyesus through its vivid frescos.

 

Axum’s most sacred site is the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion, which, according to Ethiopian Orthodox tradition, houses the original Ark of the Covenant in the Chapel of the Tablet next to the church. According to legend, the Ark was smuggled from Israel to Ethiopia by Menelik I, the son of Solomon and the Queen of Sheba – a belief rooted in Ethiopia’s national psyche but regarded by historians as a powerful national myth.

No one is allowed to see the Ark of the Covenant except a single, virgin monk appointed to guard it, who never leaves the Chapel grounds and only appoints his successor before his death.

External view of the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion.

Nearby is the Bath of the Queen of Sheba – a massive, ancient water reservoir carved from solid rock, with stone steps leading down to it, where she reportedly bathed. Despite the legend linking it to the Queen of Sheba and Ethiopian tradition that she originated from Axum, it was not a personal bathing pool but a vital water source for the city. Today, it’s a significant religious purification site, especially during Timkat (Epiphany).

A body of brown water with a hill behind it.

The Queen of Sheba’s Bath, Axum.

 

In the western part of Axum are the ruins of the Palace of the Queen of Sheba, known locally as Dungur. The archaeological site comprises 50 rooms, a throne room with steps, a kitchen with a brick oven, and a drainage system. Although archaeologists debate whether it was truly the Queen of Sheba’s palace or a nobleman’s mansion from the same era, the Dungur site is the most widely recognised archaeological location associated with her palace.

The ruins of the Queen of Sheba’s Palace on the western outskirts of Axum.

 

The Simien Mountains: The Roof of Africa

It was a long drive from Axum to the Simien Mountains. The 264 kilometres took seven hours, with a stop for a picnic lunch on the side of the road, shared with cows, and the obligatory coffee stop.

Have I mentioned that Ethiopia has the best coffee in the world? Ethiopia is the birthplace of coffee, where brewing and drinking it are world-renowned rituals steeped in tradition and social significance. I was in coffee heaven, and whenever I could, I took part in the coffee ceremony.

But back to the long drive, which kept revealing the most spectacular scenery as we wound our way up through the Simien Mountains National Park – a UNESCO World Heritage Site of jagged peaks, massive escarpments and deep valleys. Sometimes called the ‘Roof of Africa’, it is home to Ethiopia’s highest peak, which rises to 4550 metres (14,930 feet). It doesn’t take much imagination to feel as if you are standing on top of the world.

Gallery – The breathtaking Simien Mountains:

I stayed two nights at Simien Lodge. Read my post about its unique heating system.

After many days of long-distance driving, it was a welcome relief to stretch my legs with walks in the national park.

Gondar: The Camelot of Africa

I never expected to see royal castles in Ethiopia. But Gondar has six castles in its Royal Enclosure (Fasil Ghebbi), which served as the royal residence for Ethiopia’s rulers from the 1640s to 1864 and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

A 900-metre wall encloses the Royal Enclosure’s seven hectares and contains churches, palaces, monasteries, and even a lion’s cage. The best-preserved is King Fasilidas’ castle, a three-storey fortress with battlements and towers, known locally as the Egg Castle for its egg-shaped roof.

The Palace of Empress Mentewab – one of the most powerful women in Ethiopian history.

 

As I wandered through these medieval ruins in the Royal Enclosure, it was easy to see why Gondar is known as the ‘Camelot of Africa’.

Nearby, the stunning Debre Berhan Selassie Church (Trinity and Mountain of Light Church) is the most famous place of worship in Gondar. Built in the 17th century, the church is renowned for its remarkable murals that cover the interior walls and ceiling. The walls depict biblical events, including the lives of Christ, Mary, saints, and martyrs, while the ceiling is covered with 135 painted faces of winged cherubic angels peering down at visitors. For reasons I never understood, none of the angels in any of the churches I visited had bodies; they had only faces and wings.

On the outskirts of Gondar is King Fasilidas’ Bath – a large rectangular pool with a three-storey pavilion within it, surrounded by stone walls through which the roots of ancient trees grow. The pool was empty when I visited, but it is filled once a year for Timkat (Epiphany) celebrations, when hundreds of pilgrims jump in to re-enact Christ’s baptism.

An empty pool with stone wall and two storey stone pavilion.

King Fasilidas’ Bath, Gondar.

 

Stopping for the mandatory coffee on the way to Bahir Dar, I couldn’t resist capturing the local street scene.

A group of men and women walking along a road.

Locals are going about their daily business.

 

Bahir Dar and Lake Tana: The Source of Life

Bahir Dar is a palm-lined, Mediterranean-style city on the shores of Lake Tana, Ethiopia’s largest lake and the source of the Blue Nile.

The beautiful setting of Desset Restaurant on the shores of Lake Tana, Bahir Dar.

 

The city is the gateway to Lake Tana’s island monasteries. The lake comprises 37 islands, around 27 of which have monasteries and churches and are accessible only by water.

Boating across Lake Tana, I was thrilled to see hippos and fascinated by the traditional tankwa reed boats used by locals to navigate the lake. These boats looked very sinkable!

A local paddles a traditional tank reed boat on Lake Tana.

 

Azuwa Maryam Monastery is one of the more accessible monasteries on Lake Tana, just a short boat ride from Bahir Dar across the lake. Its round church has a thatched roof and is famous for its stunning, occasionally gruesome, vividly coloured interior wall paintings depicting biblical stories and saints in the traditional Ethiopian style. Some paintings are applied directly to the walls, while others are painted on cloth and glued to the walls. I was advised by the priest who acted as a guide that the paintings are retouched every 300 years.

Religious iconography painted a a church wall.

The remarkable wall paintings inside Azuwa Maryam Monastery on Lake Tana, Bahir Dar.

 

Motoring past other island monasteries on Lake Tana, access to many is forbidden because, according to the boat driver, “women are a temptation”.

Blue Nile Falls: Ethiopia’s Impressive Waterfall

About 30 kilometres from Bahir Dar’s peaceful lakeside lies a place where the tranquillity of Lake Tana gives way to the power of Blue Nile Falls, locally known as Tis Issat, or “the water that smokes” – one of Ethiopia’s most dramatic natural sights.

The mighty Blue Nile Falls.

 

Read my post on Blue Nile Falls to learn about my visit to this breathtaking waterfall, why locals call it Tis Issat, and to see more photos that will inspire you to add these falls to your Ethiopian bucket list.

Addis Ababa: Ethiopia’s Dynamic Capital

Addis Ababa is located in the foothills of the Entoto Mountains, at an elevation of 2,400 metres, making it the third-highest capital city in the world.

I had begun my journey around northern Ethiopia in Addis Ababa, but didn’t have the chance to explore the city until my return at the end of my trip. Even then, I had only a day and a night to see what the city had to offer.

My visit to Holy Trinity Cathedral included a tour of the massive tombs of Emperor Haile Selassie and his wife, Empress Menen Asfaw. Haile Selassie was the last Emperor of Ethiopia, ruling from 1030 to 1974. Unusually, walking through the cathedral’s gardens meant dodging numerous tortoises roaming free.

The tombs of Emperor Haile Selassie and his wife

 

My highlight of Addis Ababa was the three hours I spent at the Ethnological Museum. This delightful, well-organised museum, located within Addis Ababa University, is dedicated to preserving, studying, and presenting Ethiopia’s rich cultural heritage. Exhibits cover the lifecycles, cultures, and artifacts of Ethiopia’s 80 ethnic groups, including musical instruments, clothing, tools, jewellery, religious manuscripts, ceremonial items, paintings, and much more.

 

Travelling through Northern Ethiopia is not just a journey across landscapes but a passage through time and tradition. From the mystical rock-hewn churches of Lalibela and Tigray, where faith is carved into stone and lived each day, to the ancient stelae and legends of Axum, the region’s history is as tangible as its dramatic scenery. The castles of Gondar, the breathtaking heights of the Simien Mountains, and the tranquil waters of Lake Tana each tell their own stories – of empires, spirituality, and the enduring resilience of the Ethiopian people. 

What makes Northern Ethiopia truly unforgettable is the way history, culture, and daily life are inseparable. Here, the past is not locked away in museums but is part of the present, seen in rituals of worship, vibrant art, and the warmth of local hospitality. The challenges of travel – rugged roads, steep climbs, and, at times, a limited tourism infrastructure – are far outweighed by the rewards: moments of awe, connection, and discovery that linger long after the journey ends, and the best coffee in the world.

Whether you’re drawn by the call of adventure, the allure of ancient mysteries, or the simple pleasure of sharing coffee with new friends, Northern Ethiopia offers an experience as enriching as it is unique. May this photo travel guide inspire you to explore, ask questions, and embrace the wonders that await in this extraordinary corner of Africa.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2026. All rights reserved.

 

Did this post add Ethiopia to your bucket list? What sealed the deal, or what’s holding you back?

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A panel of text telling the story of Ethiopian coffee culture and a woman's hands using a pestle and mortar.UNVEILING THE ETHIOPIAN COFFEE CEREMONY: Experience a Perfect Cultural Delight. Journey to the birthplace of coffee – Ethiopia, where coffee isn’t just a drink but a ritual steeped in tradition and social significance. Learn the ritual steps of Ethiopia’s coffee ceremony.

 

 

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COOL OFF IN TROPICAL PARADISE: 5 Top Swimming Holes Near Cairns

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A Traveller’s Guide to Wonderful Swimming Holes in Northern Queensland’s Rainforest.   Cairns may be best known as the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef, but venture inland and you’ll…

A Traveller’s Guide to Wonderful Swimming Holes in Northern Queensland’s Rainforest.

 

Cairns may be best known as the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef, but venture inland and you’ll discover another side of Tropical North Queensland – a lush world of rainforest, waterfalls, and natural swimming holes. With warm, humid weather all year round, there’s nothing more refreshing than plunging into a cool rainforest pool after a morning of exploring.

From volcanic crater lakes to postcard-perfect waterfalls, Tropical North Queensland is dotted with swimming holes that feel like hidden gems. The best part? Many of them are perfect for easy day trips from Cairns. 

During my four days in Cairns, I joined two tours to make the most of my rainforest swims. The Waterfall Wanderers Tour with Cairns Adventure Group took me to Lake Eacham, Millaa Millaa Falls, Josephine Falls, and Babinda Boulders – a full day of rainforest lakes and waterfalls. To round out the experience, I joined the Daintree, Mossman Gorge & Wildlife Tour with Tropic Wings Cairns Tours, which combined swimming at Mossman Gorge with a visit to a wildlife sanctuary and the chance to see one of the world’s oldest rainforests.

 

Why Swim in Tropical North Queensland’s Rainforest?

When most travellers think of Cairns, the Great Barrier Reef usually springs to mind. But venture inland and you’ll find another side of Tropical North Queensland – a lush, green landscape of waterfalls, crystal-clear creeks and rivers, and volcanic crater lakes tucked away in the rainforest. Here, swimming isn’t just about cooling off in the tropical heat; it’s about immersing oneself in nature at its most pristine.

Tropical North Queensland’s rainforest swimming holes are fed by clear mountain streams, shaded by towering trees, and teeming with wildlife – for the first time, I saw a platypus in its natural habitat. You won’t find chlorinated pools or crowded beaches here – instead, you’ll float beneath waterfalls, slide down smooth granite rocks, or wade into calm lakes formed thousands of years ago.

These waterholes also deepen our connection with the land. Some, like Babinda Boulders and Mossman Gorge, are important to Indigenous communities, reminding us to swim with respect and care. Safety remains crucial, as conditions can change rapidly in the tropics. Always follow local signs and advice.

Swimming in Queensland’s tropical rainforest is about more than just taking a dip – it’s an adventure that combines relaxation with the chance to connect with one of the most ancient landscapes on Earth.

The 5 Best Rainforest Swimming Holes Near Cairns

Tropical North Queensland’s rainforest is scattered with natural swimming holes, each offering its own appeal – from peaceful volcanic lakes to tumbling waterfalls and granite-edged gorges. Whether you’re after a refreshing swim, a chance to connect with nature, or that perfect photo spot, these five swimming holes near Cairns showcase some of the region’s top rainforest escapes.

Lake Eacham – A volcanic crater turned crystal-clear oasis

Lake Eacham’s calm, crystal-clear blue waters make it a tranquil, natural swimming spot.

 

Just over an hour’s drive from Cairns, Lake Eacham is part of Crater Lakes National Park and one of the Atherton Tablelands’ most inviting swimming holes. Formed more than 10,000 years ago by a volcanic eruption, this crater lake is now a tranquil pool of deep, clear blue water surrounded by dense rainforest.

The lake’s still surface makes it perfect for a refreshing swim or a leisurely float while soaking up the sounds of the rainforest. Unlike some of the region’s waterfalls, there are no strong currents here – just a peaceful, natural swimming hole to relax and take your time.

Facilities make it easy to enjoy a few hours at Lake Eacham. There’s a grassy picnic spot, toilets, and a shaded walking trail that goes around the lake. With water access points easy to reach, you can step straight in for a swim.

Lake Eacham feels miles from Cairns, but it’s close enough for a relaxed day trip. It’s a spot to unwind, take it easy, and swim in a lake formed by fire but cooled by the rainforest.

Don’t let the freshwater crocodile living in Lake Eacham deter you from swimming. Unlike saltwater crocodiles, freshwater crocodiles are usually shy and don’t threaten humans. However, this croc may become aggressive and cause injury if you threaten it.

Millaa Millaa Falls – Swim beneath Queensland’s most photographed waterfall

Several people swim in the pluge pool created by a waterfall.

Miller Millaa Falls is the most iconic waterfall in Queensland’s Atherton Tablelands and a popular swimming hole.

 

Millaa Millaa Falls is a state heritage-listed postcard-worthy waterfall on Queensland’s Atherton Tablelands. Featuring a stunning, curtain-like 18-metre cascade into a clear, natural pool, and surrounded by lush rainforest, Millaa Millaa Falls is famous for its picturesque beauty and is one of the most photographed waterfalls in Australia. The falls have been used as a backdrop for shampoo and beer ads and featured in the music video for Peter Andre’s “Mysterious Girl”.

The plunge pool at the base of the falls is safe and perfect for a swim. Step in and enjoy the refreshing water, or swim right up to the waterfall’s curtain for a revitalising shower.

Facilities at Millaa Millaa Falls include BBQs, picnic tables, shelters, toilets, and change rooms, making it an ideal stop for a day trip. The car park’s proximity to the falls ensures quick and easy access, allowing visitors to experience this natural wonder without having to walk far.

Josephine Falls – Slide into adventure at nature’s water playground

A multi-tierd waterfall, surrounded by rainforest, tumbles over massive granite boulders.

Josephine Falls is a picturesque, mult-level cascade waterfall in Far North Queensland.

 

Located in Wooroonooran National Park on Josephine Creek, Josephine Falls is the perfect spot for a mix of relaxation and fun. Fed by rainwater from Queensland’s highest peak, Mount Bartle Frere, this multi-tiered waterfall tumbles over massive granite boulders into emerald-green pools surrounded by tropical rainforest.

The lower swimming area is safe, with peaceful pools that are perfect for cooling off. However, the main draw for many visitors is the natural rock slide in the middle tier – a smooth granite slope where you can slide into the pool below. It’s nature’s waterslide, and it makes Josephine Falls one of the most exciting, adrenaline-pumping swimming spots in the region.

From Josephine Falls’ car park, the waterfalls, viewing decks, and swimming areas are accessed via a stunning 700-metre rainforest walk that is a bitumen-paved track and mostly uphill. The track is suitable for prams and wheelchairs.

A word of caution:

Conditions at Josephine Falls can be dangerous, particularly due to sudden flash floods at any time of year, slippery rocks, and submerged objects in the creek. For visitor safety, access to the top section of the falls is prohibited, as serious injuries and fatalities have occurred there. You must observe the signposted restricted access area.

At Josephine Falls, our Cairns Adventure Group tour guide provided a safety briefing before directing our access to the natural rock slide at the middle-tier waterfall.

Babinda Boulders – Sacred waters among giant granite boulders

A waterhole surrounded by rainforest.

A safe swimming spot at Babinda Boulders.

 

Babinda Boulders is a place of both natural beauty and deep cultural significance for the local Aboriginal people. Here, a clear mountain creek winds its way around massive granite boulders, forming natural swimming holes where you can swim in the shadow of rainforest-clad mountains.

The main swimming area is calm and safe, with sandy banks and shady picnic spots – perfect for a relaxed, refreshing dip. But beyond the designated swimming zones, the water flows through narrow chutes and powerful currents, especially around Devil’s Pool, making those areas off-limits.

Local signs and stories tell the Dreamtime legend of the site, reminding visitors of its spiritual significance to the Yidinjy people. Babinda Boulders is a popular swimming hole with a strong sense of place – a reminder to respect the landscape as much as we enjoy it.

A word of caution:

For the second time on this day trip, the Cairns Adventure Group tour guide gave a safety briefing, as Babinda Boulders is more dangerous than Josephine Falls. While it is generally safe to swim at the designated swimming holes, it is essential to be safety-conscious and avoid taking unnecessary risks. Twenty-nine people have died at Babinda Boulders after ignoring warning signs to stay clear of the fast-flowing water and slippery boulders at Devil’s Pool.

Mossman Gorge – A refreshing dip in the heart of the Daintree

People gather on the sandbank along a river, while others swim in the river, which is lined with green trees.

A sandy beach on the Mossman River – a pretty swimming spot in Mossman Gorge.

 

Mossman Gorge offers a rare chance to swim in clear waters, surrounded by the lush greenery of the World Heritage-listed Daintree Rainforest. This ancient rainforest, known for its incredible biodiversity and being one of the oldest ecosystems on Earth, provides a truly unforgettable spot for a refreshing dip. Just outside Port Douglas, this part of the Mossman River is renowned for its cool, clear waters flowing over smooth granite boulders beneath a lush green canopy.

Designated swimming spots along the river let you wade in safely and cool off while surrounded by the sounds of the rainforest. The water here is fresh and invigorating – a welcome relief on a hot, humid day.

Beyond swimming, Mossman Gorge holds deep cultural significance for the Kuku Yalanji people. Visitors arrive through Mossman Gorge Centre, where they can learn about Indigenous traditions or join a guided Dreamtime Walk. It’s a place where a simple swim connects you not only to nature but also to thousands of years of living culture.

Access to the gorge is via a shuttle bus from the Mossman Gorge Centre, with services departing every 15 minutes between 8.00 am and 4.45 pm. Tickets can be bought at the centre or online in advance. This shuttle system helps to protect the natural environment and manage visitor numbers, ensuring a safe and sustainable experience for all.

Practical Information – Planning Your Rainforest Swim

Before you dive into Tropical North Queensland’s rainforest swimming holes, a little planning will make your trip smoother and more enjoyable.

How to get there

You can visit all these swimming holes on day tours from Cairns, which is a convenient option if you prefer not to self-drive. Tours typically combine multiple experiences into a single itinerary, often including transportation, a guide, and sometimes lunch. If you like flexibility, self-driving gives you the freedom to spend as long as you like at each spot.

Distances from Cairns:

  • Lake Eacham = 67 kilometres
  • Millaa Millaa Falls = 101 kilometres
  • Josephine Falls car park = 75 kilometres
  • Babinda Boulders = 65 kilometres
  • Mossman Gorge Centre = 78 kilometres

Best time to go

The dry season (May to October) is the most comfortable time to visit, with warm days, lower humidity, and clear conditions for swimming. The wet season (November to April) brings heavy rain and stronger currents, which can make some spots unsafe, though the waterfalls are at their most dramatic.

Always check local conditions before swimming.

Essentials to bring

  • Swimmers and a towel
  • Hat
  • Sunscreen
  • Sturdy, reliable footwear
  • Drinking water
  • Insect repellent
  • Camera and waterproof phone case

Tour versus independent travel

Day tours are stress-free and great if you’re short on time, as everything is organised for you. Sadly, day tours can often feel rushed. However, with the two tours I took – “Waterfall Wanderers Tour” with Cairns Adventure Group and “Mossman Gorge, Daintree and Wildlife” with Tropic Wings Cairns Tour – the pace was relaxed and unhurried. Self-driving provides more freedom, but it requires careful planning and navigation. Either way, always respect signage, stay in designated swimming spots, and leave no trace behind.

 

Swimming in Tropical North Queensland’s rainforest isn’t just about cooling off – it’s about connecting with an ancient landscape that feels powerful and alive. Each swimming hole I visited had its own character: the calm serenity of Lake Eacham, the picture-perfect plunge at Millaa Millaa Falls, the playful rock slide at Josephine Falls, the sacred beauty of Babinda Boulders, and the crisp mountain waters of Mossman Gorge. 

If I had to choose a favourite, Josephine Falls captured my sense of adventure, while Mossman Gorge connected me with the world’s oldest rainforest. Whichever you visit, you’ll leave with memories of swims unlike anywhere else in the world. 

So pack your swimmers, respect the land and its cultural significance, and get ready to dive into the cool, clear waters of Tropical North Queensland’s rainforest – it’s an experience you won’t forget.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025.

 

If you could add one more Queensland rainforest swimming hole to this list, where would it be?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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An image with two photos: people swimming in a river and people swimming in a waterfall's plunge pool.

An image with two photos: one of a woman cautiously walking across a waterfall's boulder and the other of people swimming in a river in the rainforest.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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© Just Me Travel 2018-2025. All rights reserved.

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STEP BACK IN TIME IN MÉRIDA: See Spain’s Most Impressive Roman Ruins

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My Ultimate Photo Guided Walk of the Roman Ruins in Mérida, Spain   Wandering the streets of Mérida, Spain, is like stepping back in time to the height of the…

My Ultimate Photo Guided Walk of the Roman Ruins in Mérida, Spain

 

Wandering the streets of Mérida, Spain, is like stepping back in time to the height of the Roman Empire. Founded in 25 BC as Augusta Emerita, Mérida was one of the most important cities in Roman Hispania, and today it is home to some of the most extensive and best-preserved Roman ruins in Spain. Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the city is a treasure trove of ancient monuments, including a spectacular Roman theatre, a grand amphitheatre, the Temple of Diana, the Arch of Trajan, and one of the longest surviving Roman bridges in the world. 

This guide to walking around the Roman ruins of Mérida provides a self-guided itinerary allowing you to explore the city’s most iconic ancient sites on foot. Whether you’re a history buff, an architecture enthusiast, or a photographer, this Mérida walking tour offers an unforgettable journey through temples, arches, bridges, and archaeological treasures. 

Lace up your walking shoes, grab your camera, and discover why Mérida is one of the must-visit destinations in Spain for anyone fascinated by ancient history.

 

Why Visit the Roman Ruins of Mérida, Spain – A UNESCO World Heritage City

If you’re keen to experience the grandeur of ancient Rome without leaving Spain, Mérida is the place to visit. The city, known as Augusta Emerita, was founded by Emperor Augustus in 25 BC as the capital of the Roman province of Lusitania. Its strategic position on the banks of the Guadiana River made it a hub for trade, governance, and military activity in the Western Roman Empire.

Today, Mérida is the capital of the Extremadura region in western Spain, a vibrant modern city with around 60,000 residents. Yet, it retains the feel of an open-air museum because of its remarkable collection of Roman monuments, which earned the city UNESCO World Heritage status in 1993. Here, you can stand in the same amphitheatre where gladiators once fought, walk across a two-thousand-year-old bridge, and marvel at temples, arches, and mosaics that have survived centuries of change – all within the city centre.

Unlike many archaeological sites tucked away in remote locations, Mérida’s treasures are woven into the fabric of the modern city. You can easily explore them on foot, allowing you to immerse yourself in history at every turn – whether you’re wandering past the Temple of Diana, stopping at the Arch of Trajan, or enjoying the sweeping views from the Roman Theatre’s stone seats.

With its mix of ancient history, walkable streets, and easy access, Mérida provides travellers a rare opportunity to immerse themselves in the Roman world without leaving the Iberian Peninsula.

How to See the Roman Ruins of Mérida on a Self-Guided Walking Tour

One of the best things about visiting Mérida, Spain, is how compact and walkable the historic centre is. Most of the city’s Roman monuments are within a short stroll of each other, making it easy to explore at your own pace without needing a bus tour or guide.

A self-guided walking tour lets you set your own schedule, linger at your favourite spots, and take photos without being rushed. You’ll be able to follow the city’s ancient story as you move from one site to the next, with each stop revealing a new layer of its Roman past.

Begin your walk at the Roman Theatre and Amphitheatre, the city’s most famous landmarks. From there, you can follow a logical loop that takes in temples, arches, bridges, and archaeological sites before finishing at the National Museum of Roman Art (highly recommended).

Mérida’s Roman Ruins Walking Route Map. (Map data @2025 Google)

 

Many of Mérida’s Roman sites are included in a combined ticket available from the theatre’s entrance or other major monuments. This pass is an excellent value if you plan to see multiple attractions in one day. Some sites, such as the Roman Bridge, Trajan’s Arch, and the Temple of Diana, are free to visit at any time.

Spending four to six hours allows for a relaxed visit to the main Roman ruins, including time for photos, breaks, and lunch. However, I strongly recommend staying at least one night in Mérida. Several of the ruins – such as the Roman Theatre, the Roman Bridge, and the Temple of Diana – are illuminated at night, offering breathtaking views that warrant a second visit.

For something truly special, the International Classical Theatre Festival of Mérida takes place annually from June to August. During the festival, the Roman Theatre serves as the stage for a variety of theatrical productions, where performances are held every night, in the same place they were held more than two thousand years ago.

A play staged on an ancient Roman theatre.

I was fortunate to be in Mérida during the city’s Classical Theatre Festival and saw a night performance at the over 2000-year-old Roman Theatre.

 

What to See in Mérida – A Step-by-Step Walking Itinerary

Exploring Mérida’s UNESCO-listed Roman heritage is best done on foot, with each site just a short walk from the next. This self-guided walking route begins at the Roman Theatre, Mérida’s most iconic monument in the city. It winds for about three kilometres through plazas, streets, and riverside paths to Mérida’s most impressive Roman ruins without doubling back. Along the way, you’ll see ancient arches, weathered colonnades, magnificent mosaics, and dramatic ruins as you explore from site to site, showcasing the city’s rich Roman past.

Each monument shares its story, showing how Mérida once thrived as an imperial capital. This itinerary features all the must-see spots, making sure you don’t miss any marvels as you delve into the city’s rich mix of history and architecture.

Roman Theatre – Spain’s most iconic ancient landmark

The Roman Theatre is Mérida’s most visited monument. It is a true treasure that will transport you back to ancient Lusitania.

 

The Roman Theatre is Mérida’s most celebrated archeological landmark and one of the finest surviving theatres of the ancient world. Constructed around 16-15 BC, this remarkably well-preserved theatre could seat 6,000 spectators. In its day, it was the centre for drama, music, political speeches, and public gatherings, reflecting the cultural sophistication of Roman Augusta Emerita. It is still used for performances during Mérida’s Classical Theatre Festival.

The theatre’s most striking feature is its two-tiered stage backdrop, decorated with marble columns and statues of Roman gods and emperors. The seating area is carved into the hillside, providing excellent acoustics.

Roman Amphitheatre – gladiators and games

Mérida’s Roman Amphitheatre hosted gladiatorial fights and battles between men and beasts or between beasts themselves.

 

Next to the Roman Theatre is the Roman Amphitheatre, where gladiators once fought each other and wild animals for public entertainment. Built in 8 BC, with an oval shape typical of Roman amphitheatres, it could hold about 15,000 spectators.

The arena floor once featured a wooden platform covering an underground passage where fighters and animals waited their turn in the spotlight. Today, excavated sections of the arena reveal the central pit used in these spectacles. The stone seating tiers, though partly eroded, still rise in a semicircle, providing a sense of scale to the venue.

House of the Amphitheatre – Roman villas, mosaics, and gardens

This intricate mosaic floor in the House of the Amphitheatre is thought to be in the house’s dining room.

 

The House of the Amphitheatre is one of Mérida’s most fascinating archaeological sites, offering an intimate glimpse into the lives of wealthy Romans nearly 2,000 years ago. Situated just outside the Roman Amphitheatre, this extensive residential complex spans from the end of the 3rd century BC to the beginning of the 5th century AD, showcasing the architectural sophistication of the period.

Excavations have uncovered stunning mosaic floors, detailed wall paintings, and rooms arranged around a central colonnaded courtyard. Evidence of an underfloor heating system in the private baths highlights the owner’s high social status. Archaeologists believe it was home to an influential family, possibly linked to the city’s entertainment or political elite.

An archaeological excavation of a Roman house.

In the House of the Amphitheatre, rooms are arranged around a central colonnaded courtyard.

 

Portico of the Forum – the Roman Forum’s grand entrance

The Portico of the Forum with its distinctive Corinthian columns.

 

Once the entrance to the Roman Forum, the Portico of the Forum serves as a reminder of Mérida’s role as the administrative hub of the Roman province of Lusitania. Constructed in the 1st century AD, this colonnaded portico once stood in front of the forum’s main square, flanked by statues of gods, emperors, and dignitaries. Although only part of the portico remains, its Corinthian columns and fragments of decorative reliefs still reflect the grandeur of Roman civic architecture.

Temple of Diana – a must-see Roman monument in the city centre

The Temple of Diana stands in the heart of Mérida’s historic centre.

 

Dating back to the 1st century AD and once dominating the city’s forum, the Temple of Diana is one of the best-preserved Corinthian temples in the Iberian Peninsula. Despite its name, it wasn’t dedicated to the goddess Diana but served as the imperial cult’s temple, honouring the emperor as a god.

In the 16th century, a palace was incorporated into the temple, leaving the Corinthian columns in their original rectangular formation.

Arch of Trajan – gateway to the ancient city

A stone arch over a street.

The Arch of Trajan, taken at night on my walk back to my hotel.

 

Standing at a height of 15 metres, Trajan’s Arch was neither a triumphal arch nor dedicated to the emperor Trajan. It was the monumental gateway to the sacred district that surrounded the Imperial cult temple (the Temple of Diana). Built in the late 1st or early 2nd century AD, it served as a grand entrance to the forum.

Now devoid of its marble cladding, its massive granite blocks still convey a sense of imperial grandeur.

Archaeological Zone of Morerías – layers of history by the river

An archaeological excavation of a Roman house.

A Roman house with marble floors in the Archaeological Zone of Morerías along Mérida’s Guadiana River.

 

The Archaeological Zone of Morerías lies beneath an apartment building along the Guadiana River. It provides a unique insight into Mérida’s layered history. Here, Roman streets, houses, and workshops coexist with later Visigothic and Moorish structures. The site spans several centuries of occupation, illustrating the city’s evolution after the fall of the Roman Empire. The visible urban layout, with its well-preserved stonework and walls, makes it easy to imagine daily life in this multi-era riverside district.

Elevated walkways allow you to view the site’s complexity from a bird’s-eye perspective.

An ancient Roman stone street.

A Roman street in the Archaeological Zone of Morerías.

 

Roman Bridge over the Guadiana River – the longest surviving Roman bridge

The view of Mérida’s ancient Roman Bridge from the Alcazaba best captures its length as it spans the Guadiana River.

 

Mérida’s Roman Bridge over the Guadiana River was built in the 1st century BC. At a length of 792 metres and with 60 arches, it is one of Spain’s longest bridges and the longest surviving Roman bridge in the world. It was a vital crossing of the Guadiana River and a strategic artery for Roman trade and military movement.

Having carried road traffic for most of its life, it was converted into a pedestrian-only bridge in 1991.

Alcazaba of Mérida – Moorish fortress built on Roman foundations

Although the Alcazaba of Mérida looks entirely Moorish, much of its core fabric is Roman in origin, as Roman materials were reused when the Muslims built the fortress in 835 AD. As you explore the Alcazaba, keep an eye out for these Roman features:

  • Roman walls and foundations,
  • Roman road,
  • Roman water cistern, and
  • Roman stones in the fortress walls.

Climb its walls for panoramic views of the Guadiana River and the Roman Bridge.

National Museum of Roman Art in Mérida – Mosaics, Sculptures, and Artefacts

No visit to Roman Mérida is complete without stepping inside the National Museum of Roman Art, an archaeological museum conveniently located next to the Roman Theatre and Amphitheatre complex. Designed by Spanish architect Rafael Moneo and inaugurated in 1986, the museum is an architectural masterpiece in its own right – its soaring brick arches deliberately echo the grandeur of Roman design while offering a modern, light-filled space.

Spread over three floors, inside you’ll find one of the world’s most extensive collections of Roman mosaics, alongside sculptures, tombstones, ceramics, paintings, coins, glassware, and everyday objects excavated from Mérida’s Roman sites.

It is at the National Museum of Roman Art where Mérida’s story comes full circle—linking the ruins you’ve just wandered through with the people who once called them home.

Paintings in the National Museum of Roman Art that decorated the balustrade of the podium of Mérida’s Roman amphitheatre.

 

How to Get to Mérida

Mérida’s central location in Spain’s Extremadura region makes it easily accessible by train, bus, or car from Madrid or Seville.

To travel from Madrid to Mérida, take a Renfe train (approximately four hours) or a bus with Avanza Grupo (around five hours), both of which offer direct services.

To travel from Seville to Mérida, take a Renfe train (approximately three and a half hours) or a bus with ALSA (approximately two to three hours).

Driving gives you the most flexibility and allows you to explore Extremadura’s smaller towns and countryside. The road distance from Madrid to Mérida is 341 kilometres, while the distance from Seville to Mérida is 192 kilometres.

 

Walking through Mérida’s Roman ruins is like stepping back in time. From the grandeur of the theatre and amphitheatre to the quiet beauty of mosaics at the House of the Amphitheatre, every site uncovers a different chapter of life in one of the Roman Empire’s most significant provincial capitals. Few places in the world offer such a well-preserved collection of Roman monuments in a compact, walkable city.

Whether you’re a history enthusiast, photographer, or curious traveller, Mérida offers a memorable journey through layers of history that still shape the city today. Its UNESCO World Heritage status is well deserved – it’s a living museum where Roman roads, arches, bridges, and temples still shape the urban landscape.

So, if you’re planning a trip through Extremadura or southern Spain, make sure to set aside at least one day, preferably two, to explore Mérida on foot.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025.

 

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A collage of photos showing Islamic architecture, a beach, an ancient Roman theatre, and a modern glass and silver tiled building.SPAIN BUCKET LIST: The 47 Incredible Things You Should Not Miss. From historic landmarks to cultural marvels, my Spain Bucket List is your go-to resource for planning the trip of a lifetime. Start planning your Spain itinerary now!

 

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WHY VISIT SENEGAL, WEST AFRICA? Here are 11 Excellent Attractions

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My Senegal Highlights: The Best Things to Do in This Vibrant Country.   Welcome to the vibrant and captivating country of Senegal in West Africa. During my trip to this…

My Senegal Highlights: The Best Things to Do in This Vibrant Country.

 

Welcome to the vibrant and captivating country of Senegal in West Africa. During my trip to this extraordinary destination, I enjoyed experiencing a diverse range of incredible attractions that truly showcase Senegal’s unique culture, natural beauty, and rich history. From historic islands and vibrant cities to peaceful nature reserves and warm coastal communities, Senegal offers a remarkable array of experiences for all travellers that’s hard to match.

This post isn’t an exhaustive list of everything to do in Senegal – it’s my top highlights. These are the 11 experiences that left a lasting impression on me, stirring emotion, sparking curiosity, and making me say, “I’m so glad I came”.

If you’re considering a visit – or just curious about what makes Senegal so special – these highlights might just inspire your next adventure.

 

About Senegal

A young black man dressed in yellow shirts ans shirt kicks with a soccer ball on a beach.

Soccer is the second most popular sport in Senegal, after wrestling.

 

Senegal is a vibrant and culturally rich country located on the westernmost tip of Africa, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean. It is renowned for its dynamic blend of tradition, modern development, and natural beauty. Often considered one of West Africa’s most politically stable and welcoming nations, Senegal offers travellers a captivating mix of experiences – from historic sites and lively cities to stunning beaches and wildlife reserves.

The capital, Dakar, is a lively coastal metropolis renowned for its music, art, and nightlife, as well as its poignant history tied to the transatlantic slave trade, most notably at Gorée Island. Inland, visitors can explore the Great Mosque of Touba, the spiritual heart of the Mouride Brotherhood, or journey north to Saint-Louis, a UNESCO-listed colonial city with charming, faded facades.

Nature lovers will find plenty to admire, from the pink waters of Lac Rose to the birdlife at Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary and the roaming wildlife at Bandia Wildlife Reserve. The country’s coastline offers both bustling fishing towns like Kayar and peaceful resort areas along the Petite Côte.

Senegal’s rich culture is evident in its diverse ethnic groups, including the Wolof, Serer, Fulani, and Diola, each with its own distinct language, customs, and traditions. French is the official language, but Wolof is widely spoken. Renowned for its legendary teranga (hospitality), lively music and dance, tasty cuisine such as thieboudienne (a fish and rice dish), and a calendar filled with vibrant festivals, Senegal offers a truly engaging and authentic African experience.

 MY 11 REASONS TO VISIT SENEGAL

The purpose of this map is to show the locations of my Senegal highlights attractions, with three attractions in Dakar. The map does not cover my entire trip around Senegal. (Map data ©2025 Google)

 

Attractions

IFAN Museum of African Arts: A Pillar of West African Cultural Heritage

Visit the IFAN Museum of African Arts in Dakar to explore one of West Africa’s oldest and most significant collections of traditional masks, sculptures, textiles, and musical instruments, offering a profound insight into the region’s rich cultural heritage.

Established in 1936, the IFAN Museum of African Arts, officially known as the Théodore Monod African Art Museum, in Dakar, is one of the oldest and most significant art museums in West Africa.

It is a small, well-organised museum that covers all aspects of African culture, spanning centuries and regions, and is a delight to explore. I discovered exhibits of traditional clothing, carvings, musical instruments, ceremonial masks, tools, ceramics, textiles, weapons, and more. All the information plaques were in French, but I was fortunate to have a very patient guide who translated everything for me, as my schoolgirl French was insufficient to understand the written text. Had I visited the museum on my own, I would have simply been gazing at the objects without knowing the stories behind them.

Interestingly, I wasn’t allowed to take photos inside the museum with my camera, but I was allowed to do so with my mobile phone. Go figure!

During my visit, the IFAN Museum of African Arts hosted a comprehensive and brilliant exhibition that highlighted the differences and similarities among the former French West African colonies. Much of what I saw reminded me of my trip to Mali some years ago.

Visiting the IFAN Museum provides an insightful exploration of the artistic and spiritual traditions of West Africa. The artifacts on display change regularly, so even if you’ve visited before, it’s worth revisiting.

Museum of Black Civilisations: A Journey Through African Heritage and Global Dialogue

Visit the Museum of Black Civilisations in Dakar to explore a monumental celebration of African heritage and the global Black diaspora, where expansive exhibits – from ancient artifacts to contemporary art – highlight Africa’s profound contributions to world history, science, and culture.

The Museum of Black Civilisations, which opened on 6 December 2018, is a national museum in Dakar that traces the journey of Black civilisations from the cradle of humanity through the Iron Age, medieval empires, spiritual traditions, and the African diaspora, including slavery, resistance, and independence movements.

It is a groundbreaking cultural institution dedicated to celebrating the histories, achievements, artistic expressions, and global impact of Black civilisations across Africa. The museum’s extensive collection ranges from prehistoric tools and ancient sculptures to contemporary art and textiles, illustrating the significant contributions of African civilisations to global culture and science.

Although the information about the exhibits was written only in French, which my guide translated, I found it easy to follow and understand the timelines presented on my own.

I enjoyed the artworks on display on the museum’s upper floors. While able to discern the connection to the cultural artifacts I saw at the IFAN Museum of African Arts, these presented a modern perspective on the traditional.

The Museum of Black Civilisations was more than just its exhibitions. I found it to be an educational platform that explores Africa’s significant contributions to science, art, philosophy, and global culture, while also confronting the legacies of colonialism and the diaspora. Above all, it was a place for reflection!

Gorée Island: A Powerful Memorial to the Transatlantic Slave Trade

Gorée Island is a hauntingly powerful destination. 

Visit Gorée Island to walk through a powerful chapter of history, where pastel colonial buildings and the haunting House of Slaves tell the story of West Africa’s role in the transatlantic slave trade.

Colourful colonial buildings line Gorée Island’s harbour.

 

Just a short ferry ride from Senegal’s capital, Dakar, Gorée Island presents a charming exterior with its pastel facades and flower-filled narrow alleys while holding a deep history of centuries of pain, resistance, and remembrance. It offers an experience that is both enchanting and emotional.

Visiting Gorée Island on a day trip from Dakar, I walked through cells once used to imprison enslaved Africans and stood before the Door of No Return, reflecting on and haunted by the lives forever changed by the transatlantic slave trade.

Gorée Island was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978 to recognise its historical significance in the slave trade and its well-preserved colonial architecture.

A visit to Gorée Island is more than just a day trip; it’s a powerful encounter with history. Visiting it offers a sobering yet vital experience that connects past injustices to ongoing discussions about identity, heritage, and the pursuit of healing.

To discover the island in full and understand why it left such a lasting, emotional impression, read my blog post, A UNIQUE DAY TRIP: The Haunting Memory of Gorée Island, Senegal.

Fadiouth Island: A Unique Island Built on Shells

Visit Fadiouth Island to experience a one-of-a-kind village built almost entirely on seashells, where rich cultural traditions and peaceful religious coexistence create a truly unforgettable atmosphere.

Fadiouth Island: A mosque, a Catholic church, and a street made entirely of clamshells. Note the size of the wheels on the wheelchair (pushed by the man in the red shirt) needed to roll over the shells.

 

Fadiouth Island is also called “Shell Island” because this small island is entirely made up of cockle (clam) shells, a result of centuries of shellfish gathering. The residents collect the cockles at low tide, remove the meat, dry it, and discard the shells on the ground. These shells form the island’s foundation, streets, buildings, and pathways, creating a uniquely strange environment. According to my local guide, the shells are three metres thick. The crunching sound when you walk means there was no sneaking up on anyone!

The island is famous for its cemetery, which is also made entirely of shells. But what truly sets this cemetery apart is its testament to religious tolerance and peaceful coexistence. Throughout Senegal, Muslims and Christians are buried in separate cemeteries. However, in Fadiouth cemetery, the graves of Muslims and Christians lie side by side in the same sacred space.

Fadiouth Island is located on the southern edge of Senegal’s Petite Côte, about 114 kilometres south of Dakar, near the town of Joal.

Fadiouth is more than a quirky geological curiosity. The warm welcome from residents, their pride in their traditions, and their harmonious mixed-faith community, along with their willingness to share stories, made this island a place like no other I have visited.

Bandia Wildlife Reserve: Senegal’s Accessible Safari Experience

Visit Bandia Wildlife Reserve to experience an accessible West African safari, where giraffes, rhinos, zebras, ostriches, and antelopes roam freely among ancient baobab trees, all within a conservation success story just an hour from Dakar.

A white rhino, an ostrich, and a giant eland were just some of the animals seen in the Bandia Wildlife Reserve.

 

Just 65 kilometres south of Dakar, Bandia Wildlife Reserve is a private nature reserve covering 3,500 hectares of fenced savannah. It is a conservation success story that reintroduced native species that had been lost from the region for a long time due to poaching and habitat loss. Expect to see a diverse range of wildlife up close, such as giraffes, white rhinos, zebras, buffalo, antelopes, warthogs, monkeys, ostriches, and crocodiles – all from a hired safari vehicle or your own vehicle.

With a mix of wildlife and West African culture – think ancient baobab trees used as tombs – Bandia Wildlife Reserve is more than just a place to see native animals; it’s a testament to conservation, a visual reminder of Senegal’s diverse culture and natural beauty, and a chance to connect with the wild.

Bandia isn’t the Serengeti, but a well-managed, family-friendly reserve that brings the magic of African wildlife within easy reach of Dakar.

Discover why Bandia Wildlife Reserve gave me a better safari experience than some of Africa’s largest national parks: SAFARI BLISS IN SENEGAL: My Adventure at Bandia Wildlife Reserve.

Lac Rose (Lake Retba): Senegal’s Pink-Hued Wonder

Visit Lac Rose (“Pink Lake”) to witness its astonishing pink waters—caused by salt-loving algae—and experience the unique buoyancy of its hypersaline lake, all just an hour from Dakar.

Lac Rose (Pink Lake).

 

Lac Rose (also known as Lake Retba) is a stunning natural wonder in Senegal, located approximately 35 kilometres northwest of Dakar. A shallow lake (1.5 metres deep) surrounded by dunes, it is famous for its vibrant pink waters, caused by a salt-loving algae. The lake is at its most stunning pink hue during the dry season, from November to June, when there is little rain to dilute the salt.

With a salt content higher than the Dead Sea, you won’t sink when swimming in the lake – an unusual experience. Just make sure you have no open wounds or cuts.

Lac Rose has a thriving salt harvesting industry, utilising traditional methods to collect salt from the lakebed. I watched men wade into the lake with canoe-like boats to dig up the salt, shovelling bucket loads into their boats. Once full, they pushed the boats to the shore, where they transferred the salt into metal basins. Women carried these salt-filled basins, weighing about 50 kilograms, on their heads to the salt mounds on the shore. My guide told me that the women go back and forth for three hours straight – a hard job, but well paid.

Workers collecting salt from Lac Rose.

 

Lac Rose is not just a visual spectacle – it’s a place where nature, culture, and industry come together in vivid colour. Whether you’re drawn by its beauty, its stories, or its salt-laden waters, it’s a destination that leaves a lasting impression.

The combination of the pink lake, salt collection, salt mounds, and dunes provided me with numerous opportunities to capture exceptional and memorable photos.

Before leaving the area, my driver let some air out of the tyres for a thrilling drive over the dunes to the wild Atlantic coast.

Kayar: Senegal’s Vibrant Fishing Community

Visit Kayar to witness the vibrant rhythm of one of Senegal’s largest artisanal fishing centres, where colourful pirogues line the golden shores, and the daily catch drives rich cultural traditions and coastal life.

Kayar Fishing Harbour – Selling the morning’s catch directly from the boat.

 

Kayar is a lively coastal town about 60 kilometres north of Dakar. Best known as the country’s third-largest and most self-regulated artisanal fishing centre, Kayar is a place where the Atlantic Ocean, quite literally, feeds daily life. Each morning, Kayar’s beach transforms into a vibrant, open-air fish market where I had the opportunity to witness the local fishing culture firsthand.

Kayar was a hive of activity and a kaleidoscope of colour from hundreds of hand-painted, vividly coloured wooden pirogues (traditional fishing boats), each bearing unique family symbols. The boats, laden with fish, come to the beach and anchor onshore. Men go to the boats, buy the fish directly from the captains, and then sell the fish to the people waiting on the beach. And then it’s back out to sea for another catch.

The larger pirogues can carry a crew of 30 fishermen, who fish manually. The captain sets the price of the fish, based on the type of fish and how long it took to catch.

Boat building is a related industry along Kayar’s beach and is worth a visit – if you can drag yourself away from the activity along the shoreline – with the boats being handmade.

I didn’t explore the town itself but spent my time on the beach watching traditional practices in action. I can only describe it as a thrilling experience – one that should not be missed when visiting Senegal.

Kayar is not about luxury or arranged experiences – it’s about immersion. It’s where you witness the rhythm of life shaped by the tides, and where resilience and tradition meet in every haul of the net.

Saint-Louis, Senegal: A Timeless Island of Culture, History, and Charm

Visit Saint-Louis to soak up the charm of Senegal’s former colonial capital, where faded French architecture, a rich trading history, and a thriving arts scene come together on an island at the mouth of the Senegal River.

Saint-Louis’ French colonial architecture sets a backdrop for its fishing fleet.

 

Saint-Louis is an island and a city at the mouth of the Senegal River, 234 kilometres north of Dakar, near the border with Mauritania. It is connected to the mainland by the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Faidherbe Bridge, designed by Gustave Eiffel and opened to the public in 1897.

Faidherbe Bridge, designed by Gustave Eiffel, connects Saint-Louis to the mainland.

 

Founded in 1659 by the French, Saint Louis was the first French settlement in West Africa and served as the capital of French West Africa until the early 20th century. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is celebrated for its unique blend of faded pastel-coloured colonial buildings, vibrant street life, artistic flair, traditional fishing communities, and its famous jazz festival.

After settling into my hotel, I joined my guide to explore Saint Louis in a traditional caleche (horse-drawn cart). Though a very ‘touristy’ activity, it was a practical way to see much of the city in a short time and soak up its atmosphere. Later, I walked back to the areas I had seen on the caleche and wanted to revisit. I especially enjoyed wandering around the quaysides and poking my head into artists’ workshops.

Saint-Louis is more than just a place to visit. It’s where history hangs in the air and creativity flows like the river that surrounds it.

Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary: A Wetland Wonderland for Bird Lovers

Visit Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary to see one of the world’s most important wetland reserves, where more than 400 bird species – including immeasurable flocks of pelicans – gather in a serene UNESCO-listed habitat just north of Saint-Louis.

Pelicans in Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary were continuously taking off and landing.

 

Located 53 kilometres north of Saint-Louis, Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most important bird sanctuaries in the world. Opening in 1971 and spanning 16,000 hectares within the Senegal River delta, this wetland ecosystem comprises a network of lakes, streams, ponds, and backwaters.

Serving as a critical stopover for migratory birds crossing the Sahara, Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary hosts over 1.5 million birds annually, including more than 365 species such as white pelicans, flamingos, African spoonbills, great egrets, and cormorants. The optimal visiting period is from November to April, aligning with the peak migratory season, when birds arrive in staggering numbers.

I got to witness the migratory spectacle of white pelicans on a two-hour guided boat tour, with hundreds of pelicans gathered near the reeds, landing in the water, or taking flight in search of a less crowded resting spot. At one point, the pelicans streaked across the sky and down the waterway like planes on a bombing raid. It reminded me of the 1955 film The Dam Busters, as wave after wave of pelicans flew over our heads and to the side of the boat. A truly wondrous sight!

I saw at least a dozen bird species – and they’re just the ones I can remember. On our way back to the jetty, we motored past an island jam-packed with grey-coloured baby pelicans. According to the Djoudj guide, these babies were one and a half months old, and they don’t learn to fly until four months old. I saw some baby pelicans swimming in lines of three abreast, close to the island. It looked like a swimming school!

Djoudj is more than a bird sanctuary – it’s a living, breathing ecosystem that offers a front-row seat to one of nature’s most awe-inspiring migrations. Whether you’re a seasoned birder or a curious traveller, it’s a place that leaves you wanting more.

The Great Mosque of Touba: Spiritual Heart of Senegal’s Mouride Brotherhood

Visit the Great Mosque of Touba to experience one of Africa’s largest and most sacred Islamic sites – a stunning architectural masterpiece and spiritual centre of the Mouride Brotherhood, where the legacy of its founder, Sheikh Ahmadou Bamba, draws millions of pilgrims each year.

The Great Mosque of Touba, in the holy city of Touba, about 200 kilometres east of Dakar, is one of the most iconic religious landmarks in West Africa. Built in 1887 and continually expanded since then, the mosque is the holiest site for the Mouride Brotherhood, a powerful Sufi Islamic order. It houses the tomb of their founder, Sheikh Ahmadou Bamba.

The mosque is an impressive architectural marvel with five minarets, three large domes, and a prayer hall that accommodates over 7,000 worshipers. The interiors feature beautiful Italian terrazzo floors, Moroccan tiles, and handmade carpets.

The mosque is open to non-Muslims outside prayer times. I was provided with a long wrap-skirt and a scarf to wear during my visit.

Touba is a dry city where alcohol, tobacco, music, and dancing are prohibited to maintain its sanctity and devotion.

Visiting the Great Mosque of Touba is not just a cultural experience – it’s a profound encounter with Senegal’s spiritual soul, where faith, architecture, and community converge in harmony.

Kunta Kinteh Island: A Haunting Legacy on the Gambia River

Visit Kunta Kinteh Island to confront the haunting legacy of the transatlantic slave trade at a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where the ruins of Fort James and surrounding landmarks stand as solemn reminders of the resilience of those who endured unimaginable hardships.

The ruins of Fort James on Kunta Kinteh Island – a key site in the transatlantic slave trade.

 

The Gambia, located on the Atlantic coast, is a narrow country within the borders of Senegal, and is not much wider than the Gambia River, which shapes its geography. I took a day trip to The Gambia to visit Kunta Kinteh Island, crossing the border at Kartong.

Previously known as James Island, Kunta Kinteh Island is a small yet historically significant site located 30 kilometres upstream from the mouth of the Gambia River in The Gambia. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the island was a key site in the transatlantic slave trade. It housed a fort (Fort James) used by various European powers – Portuguese, Dutch, and British – for the capture, storage, and shipment of enslaved Africans bound for the Americas. Today, its crumbling walls and solitary prison cell stand as haunting reminders of centuries of human suffering.

Kunta Kinteh Island can be reached by boat from Juffureh.

The island was renamed in 2011 to honour Kunta Kinte, the enslaved Gambian man whose story was popularised in Alex Haley’s book Roots. Although fictionalised, the story reflects the real experiences of many Africans forcibly taken from this region. All enslaved Africans captured in The Gambia were imprisoned on Kunta Kinteh Island before being loaded onto the slave ships docked there.

Kunta Kinteh Island is not just a place – it’s a profoundly moving and reflective experience. As with Gorée Island, I felt a connection with the painful legacy of slavery and the enduring spirit of those who lived through it – something I did not expect to feel.

When planning my trip to West Africa (Benin, Togo, Ghana, The Gambia, and Senegal), I was ignorant of the extent of the slave trade in the region. What I saw, read, and heard has left a profound emotional impact that remains deeply ingrained in my memory. The resilience of people never ceases to amaze me.

I was required to show proof of my yellow fever vaccination for entry into The Gambia.

General Travel Tips for Senegal

  •  I travelled around Senegal with a private guide and driver. However, according to my guide, it is possible to get around independently without a guide and driver or on a group tour. While there are no trains in Senegal, there is a public bus system that connects towns. Taxis are not expensive, and you can bargain for the fare.
  • French is the official language of Senegal, but Wolof is the most widely spoken. English is not commonly spoken, and I was hard-pressed to get by in Senegal with my schoolgirl French. Luckily, my private guide spoke excellent English and was happy to translate whenever needed. I found using Google Translate to be an exasperating experience, especially when trying to decipher menus with my camera. I was never sure what I was ordering!
  • Due to its tropical climate, Senegal experiences a warm climate throughout the year, characterised by two distinct seasons: a dry season, which lasts roughly from November to June, and a wet season from July to October. The dry season is considered the best time to visit, as it offers warm, sunny days with lower humidity and cooler nights. It is perfect for visiting places like Saint-Louis, Gorée Island, Bandia Wildlife Reserve, and Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary. Avoid the wet season when heavy rains and high humidity can make travel unpleasant.
  • I visited Senegal in February and experienced temperatures from the mid-20s to the low 30s (degrees Celsius), depending on where I was in the country, with no rainfall. The weather plays a crucial role in your enjoyment of your trip. Knowing the long-range city weather forecasts beforehand can help you avoid disappointment. When planning my trips, my go-to resource is the World Meteorological Organisation’s (WMO) World Weather Information Services. Check my blog post for details on WMO.
  • Be prepared for things to move at a slower pace – patience is the key. Having lived in Namibia for several years, I came to know what I call “African time”!
  • The currency is the West African CFA franc. Cash is king! Many places don’t accept cards, and ATMs can be unreliable. I prepaid all my hotels before leaving Australia.
  • Senegal is predominantly a Muslim country, so dress modestly.

 

As I reflect on my time spent exploring the wonders of Senegal, I am filled with a sense of awe and gratitude for the incredible experiences I had the privilege of encountering. From the soul-stirring history etched into Gorée Island to the spiritual serenity of the Great Mosque of Touba, and from the lively atmosphere of Kayar’s fishing harbour to the tranquil, shell-laden streets of Fadiouth Island, Senegal has left an indelible mark on my heart and soul. The 11 attractions I have shared with you in this blog post offer just a glimpse into the beauty and diversity that Senegal has to offer. 

I hope this journey through Senegal has inspired you to include this remarkable country in your travel plans. Whether you are drawn to the history, culture, nature, or the warm hospitality of the Senegalese people, I can assure you that a trip to Senegal will be a truly unforgettable experience. So, pack your bags, open your heart to new adventures, and get ready to be immersed in the magic of Senegal, where every corner holds a story waiting to be discovered.

A visit to Senegal is not just a travel destination – it’s a transformative journey that will stay with you long after you have returned home.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. Unless specifically credited, all photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025.

 

Which of these Senegalese highlights sparks your wanderlust the most? Let me know in the comments below!

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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an image with two photos: one of Dakar's cityscape and the other of pelicans taking flight and landing.

An image with two photos: one of fish being sold on a beach directly from the boat and the other showing the beautiful architecture of the Great Mosque of Touba.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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Ocean-front colourful, multistoried, colonial buildings.A UNIQUE DAY TRIP: The Haunting Memory of Gorée Island. Visiting Gorée Island is more than just a day trip to a picturesque destination with vibrant colonial architecture; it’s a profound encounter with a history filled with centuries of pain, resistance, and remembrance. A must-visit spot!

 

An image with three photos of animals - a white rhino, an ostrich, and a giant eland.SAFARI BLISS IN SENEGAL: My Adventure at Bandia Wildlife Reserve. Senegal is unlikely to feature on your list when considering a safari in Africa. However, the small Bandia Wildlife Reserve, a conservation success story, offered an intimate, rewarding, and rich safari experience unlike those in the big-name parks.

 

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Africa Destinations Reviews Senegal Travel Tips, Info and Resources

A UNIQUE DAY TRIP: The Haunting Memory of Gorée Island, Senegal

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This Tiny Island in Senegal Tells a Story the World Must Never Forget   I spent two fabulous weeks in Senegal, West Africa, experiencing as much as possible on a…

This Tiny Island in Senegal Tells a Story the World Must Never Forget

 

I spent two fabulous weeks in Senegal, West Africa, experiencing as much as possible on a private tour with my guide, Serigne, and driver, Pap, based on an itinerary I developed in consultation with Native Eye Travel. It was a memorable trip with many highlights, including museums in Dakar, Lac Rose (Pink Lake), Fadiouth Island (built on clamshells), Bandia Wildlife Reserve, and more. However, my day trip to Gorée Island was the most poignant. 

Just a short ferry ride from Dakar, Gorée Island presents a charming exterior with its pastel facades and narrow alleys while holding a deep history of centuries of pain, resistance, and remembrance. It offers an experience that is both enchanting and emotional. 

As I walked through cells once used to imprison enslaved people on Gorée Island and stood before the Door of No Return, I reflected on the lives forever changed by the transatlantic slave trade. This post shares what I discovered on Gorée Island – what to see, how to get there, and, most importantly, why this tiny island left such a lasting impression.

 

About Gorée Island

Gorée Island lies three kilometres off the coast of Senegal, directly across from Dakar. While it is a small island – approximately 900 metres long and 350 metres wide – its historical significance far outweighs its size.

Discovered by the Portuguese in the 15th century, the island was successively ruled by the Portuguese, Dutch, English, and French from the 15th to the 19th century, using Gorée Island as a strategic trading post.

From 1536 to 1848 (when the French abolished slavery), Gorée Island was active in the transatlantic slave trade, particularly under French control. The island served as a major holding and embarkation centre for enslaved Africans who were forcibly taken from West Africa and kept in cramped, dark cells while awaiting transport across the Atlantic to the Americas.

Gorée Island functioned as both a residential and commercial centre for European traders and a place of imprisonment for captured Africans. The island witnessed unimaginable human suffering, with many enslaved people dying before even setting foot on a ship.

While Gorée Island may not have experienced the highest volume of slave departures, its preserved structures and historical exhibits offer a tangible and solemn connection to this dark chapter of human history. The island has become a pilgrimage site, especially for Africans and African Americans seeking to reconnect with their roots.

In 1978, Gorée Island was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of its historical significance in the slave trade and its well-preserved colonial architecture.

How to Get to Gorée Island

Gorée Island is accessible only by boat. The easiest and cheapest way to get there is to take the direct Gorée Ferry from Dakar’s passenger terminal. Ferries depart every two hours, daily, from 7 am to midnight. Tickets are available at the terminal and cost about 5,000 CFA (approximately USD9) for a return trip. A passport is required to purchase a ticket and to board the ferry – a copy is not accepted.

The ferry ride takes 25-30 minutes. Arrive early to grab a seat on the upper deck for scenic views of Dakar and the approach to Gorée Island.

Colourful buildings line the foreshore of a small island with a hill behind.

Approaching Gorée Island, as viewed from the ferry.

 

Things to Do and See on Gorée Island

Gorée Island offers a unique blend of historical significance and natural beauty. Visit the House of Slaves, a poignant reminder of the island’s transatlantic slave trade, and stroll through the colourful, narrow streets. Admire the colonial architecture, explore the fortifications, and soak up the charming island atmosphere.

House of Slaves (Maison des Esclaves):

The House of Slaves with a view of the Door of No Return. Enslaved Africans were imprisoned in cells on the ground floor while the upper floor was the residence of the slave trader.

 

The House of Slaves was a slave-holding warehouse and is the island’s most sombre and emotionally powerful site. Built in 1776, this pink-hued building once served as one of the 28 prisons for enslaved Africans on Gorée Island before they were forced aboard ships bound for the Americas. It is now a museum and memorial to the victims of the transatlantic slave trade on Gorée Island – to those who never returned!

Native Eye Travel arranged a private tour of the House of Slaves for me with the Head Curator, and the museum was closed for the duration of my tour.

Inside, narrow corridors led to dark, airless holding cells where men, women, and children were imprisoned separately. Some of these spaces were no larger than a closet, and the living conditions of the enslaved people were atrocious. Families were separated, and children were held away from their mothers. They spent days chained and shackled to the floor, unable to move, and only set free once a day to eat and relieve themselves. Young girls, confined separately from the other women, were particularly vulnerable to sexual exploitation.

However, the most haunting feature of the House of Slaves was the Door of No Return. This small seaside doorway marked the last point of contact for enslaved individuals with their homeland. Standing in its shadow, I felt the weight of history pressing down on me. Its symbolic and emotional significance was immense. I found myself motionless, initially unable to photograph what I saw, as I needed to acknowledge the pain that the Door of No Return symbolised.

The House of Slaves: The Door of No Return. Through this door, enslaved men, women, and children stepped from their homeland onto a waiting ship that would transport them to the Americas.

 

I truly appreciated my private tour, as having other people moving in and out of the cells and around the Door of No Return would have diminished my emotional experience. The House of Slaves was more than a museum; it was a portal to the collective trauma of a people torn from their roots and a powerful reminder of history.

The Statue of Liberation of Slaves is a powerful statue depicting a man and woman embracing as their chains are released. It is located near the House of Slaves. (Sculptors: Mrs Jean and Christian Moisa)

 

A walking tour of the island:

Beyond the House of Slaves, the island beckons for quiet exploration. Serigne led me through leafy alleyways, past colourful colonial architecture adorned with wrought-iron balconies and crumbling walls held together by bougainvillea.

We walked past open-air art galleries on our way to the highest point of Gorée Island, called the ‘castle’ even though no castle exists. However, two large cannons installed by the French during the Second World War dominate the hill.

These two French cannons were strategically positioned on Gorée Island’s highest point.

 

Lastly, Serigne took me to the Historical Museum of Senegal in Gorée, located in the former Fort d’Estrées, which the French built between 1852 and 1856. The museum presents the general history of Senegal and the more specific history of Gorée Island. Its layout follows a circular route divided into 13 rooms, covering periods from the Paleolithic Age to the slave trade and independence.

An old stone fort sits on the ocean bank of an island.

The former Fort d’Estrées, which now houses the Historical Museum.

 

Having previously visited two excellent museums in Dakar, I found the Gorée Historical Museum relatively uninteresting and neglected. Although all the information about the museum’s exhibits was written in French, this was not an issue, as Serigne was happy to translate for me, as he had done in the museums we visited in Dakar.

Gorée Island was full of contrasts – beauty, serenity, sadness, and suffering.

Where to eat:

Serigne and I lunched on the seafront at the Hostellerie du Chevalier de Boufflers. Shaded by large umbrellas, I ate lunch while looking out over the quiet harbour. My meal consisted of chicken with onion sauce and rice – a delicious traditional Senegalese dish.

A red-coloured, two story building with blue window shutters.

Lunch at Hostellerie du Chevalier de Boufflers offers uninterrupted views of Gorée Island’s harbour and serves a great traditional Senegalese chicken dish with onion sauce and rice.

 

Tips for Visiting

  • French is the official language of Senegal, but Wolof is the most widely spoken. English is not commonly spoken, and I was hard-pressed to get by in Senegal with my schoolgirl French. Luckily, Serigne spoke excellent English and was happy to translate whenever needed. I found using Google Translate to be an exasperating experience, especially when translating menus with my camera. I was never sure what I was ordering!
  • A day trip to Gorée Island is all you need. I spent five hours on the island and saw everything there was to see, except for the Museum of the Sea and the Women’s Museum.
  • Gorée Island is car-free and has cobblestone streets. It may be tiny, but you will do a lot of walking, so comfortable shoes are essential.
  • Remember, you need a valid passport to travel to Gorée Island from Dakar. You cannot purchase a ferry ticket without one.
  • The House of Slaves is open Tuesday through Sunday and closed on Mondays. Its hours are 10.30 am to 12.00 pm and 3.00 pm to 6.00 pm.
  • The Historical Museum of Senegal in Gorée is open Tuesday through Sunday and closed on Mondays. Its hours are from 10.30 am to 4.30 pm.
  • Do you truly want to understand the history of Gorée Island, rather than merely wandering the streets? I recommend arranging a guided tour from Dakar with a reputable travel agency, such as Viator or Get Your Guide (both of which I have successfully used in the past). Alternatively, you can arrive on Gorée Island and choose one of the guides who meet the ferry.

Reflecting on my Experience

Visiting Gorée Island was not just another travel experience but a journey through history and humanity. It reminded me of the importance of confronting the past, no matter how painful, and honouring those whose lives were shaped by it.

Walking through the corridors that were once filled with unimaginable suffering was a sobering experience. But there was also hope in the quiet determination to remember and never forget.

Last view of the Door of No Return (in the red building) as I leave Gorée Island on the ferry for Dakar.

 

A visit to Gorée Island is more than just a day trip; it’s a powerful encounter with history. It invites you to slow down, listen, and reflect. While the island’s beauty is undeniable, the emotional weight of its past lingers long after the ferry ride back to Dakar.

Gorée Island reminds us of humanity’s capacity for cruelty but also of its resilience and the importance of remembering. If travelling through Senegal, set aside a day for Gorée Island. It’s not just about sightseeing – it’s about bearing witness. Gorée Island doesn’t just tell a story – it asks you to carry it with you.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025.

 

Have you visited Gorée Island or another historic site that left a deep impression on you? I’d love to hear your thoughts.

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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An image with two photos - colourful buildings lining the ocean shore and a statue of a man and women embracing while showing broken chains.

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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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Austria Europe Reviews River Cruises

SEE BEAUTIFUL MELK ABBEY: A Tour Guaranteed to be Special (2025 Update)

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Beautiful Melk Abbey Review – A River Cruise Tour You Should Not Miss.   Sailing down the Danube River through Austria’s Wachau Valley, a sight came into view that seemed…

Beautiful Melk Abbey Review – A River Cruise Tour You Should Not Miss.

 

Sailing down the Danube River through Austria’s Wachau Valley, a sight came into view that seemed straight out of a storybook – Melk Abbey, perched high on a rocky outcrop overlooking the water. With its golden-yellow Baroque façade gleaming in the sunlight, this magnificent Benedictine monastery promised grandeur, history, and breathtaking views. 

As part of a river cruise through central Europe, visiting Melk Abbey was a cultural and architectural highlight I won’t forget. From ornate ceilings and staircases to a library that feels like something out of a fantasy novel, the abbey offered a fascinating glimpse into Austria’s monastic past and Baroque artistry. Whether you’re a history lover, an architecture enthusiast, or someone seeking a unique stop along the Danube, Melk Abbey provides a memorable experience. 

In this post, I share what makes Melk Abbey a standout destination, how I experienced it, and why it deserves a place on your Austrian travel itinerary.

 

About Melk Abbey

Melk Abbey is a magnificent Benedictine monastery in Lower Austria and a masterpiece of Baroque architecture. It is Austria’s largest Baroque structure and one of Europe’s biggest and most beautiful.

The abbey is perched high on a cliff overlooking the Old Town of Melk and the Danube River. It lies at the confluence of the Danube and Melk rivers within the Wachau UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The abbey you see today was built between 1702 and 1736. But Melk Abbey has more than 930 years of history, told in the abbey’s museum. Originally a palace, Melk Abbey was gifted to the Benedictine monks in 1089 and has remained an active abbey ever since. Today, Melk Abbey has 22 monks, a co-educational secondary school with 900 pupils, an extremely well-presented, minimalist museum, and a magnificent church.

My first glimpse of Melk Abbey from the cruise ship on the Danube River was absolutely breathtaking. From every angle, it was impressive – a fairytale vision brought to life. With its ochre-coloured façade and imposing Baroque architecture, Melk Abbey is among the most beautiful buildings. You might have gathered by now that I was truly awestruck by it, and the approach to the abbey’s entrance and guided tour only cemented my delight.

The approach to Melk Abbey’s entrance is through a small garden.

 

Touring Melk Abbey: Highlights and Impressions

The 50-minute guided tour of Melk Abbey (arranged by Viking Cruises) includes the museum rooms, the Marble Hall, the Balcony, and the library. It began with a meet and greet in the expansive outer courtyard, the Gatekeeper’s Courtyard. In this courtyard, there is an oak wood statue of Saint Coloman. The sculpture, crafted by Franz Gundacker using only a chainsaw, is 150 years old, and the oak was sourced from the abbey’s forests.

Saint Coloman was Austria’s first patron saint until 1663. He remains the patron saint of Melk Abbey and the town of Melk and is buried in the abbey church.

From the Gatekeeper’s Courtyard, we passed through the Benedict Hall and into the Prelate’s Courtyard.

The Prelate’s Courtyard features four vivid, contemporary frescoes, replacing the Baroque frescoes that could not be restored. These frescoes represent the four cardinal virtues: Prudence, Temperance, Justice, and Fortitude. The modernist style of the frescoes caused some controversy as people tried to adjust to the move away from the original and expected Baroque style.

Leaving the Prelate’s Courtyard through a narrow passageway, the grand Imperial Staircase leads to the Imperial Wing, the abbey’s museum and library. Known for its impressive scale and Baroque design, it is a significant feature of the abbey’s architecture.

The abbey museum and imperial rooms

The Imperial Wing was originally designed for the imperial court. It consists of the Imperial Corridor and the Imperial Rooms, which now house the Melk Abbey Museum.

The Imperial Corridor, measuring 196 metres in length, is impressive. Portraits of Austria’s rulers adorn its walls – from the first Babenberg Emperor, Leopold I, to the last Habsburg Emperor, Karl I. There are more portraits of the Habsburgs since they ruled longer.

The Melk Abbey Museum, located in the imperial rooms to the left of the Imperial Staircase, is exceptionally well-organised and informative and adopts a minimalist approach. You gain a solid overview of the abbey’s history, both past and present, as well as its cultural, political, and economic functions, without feeling overwhelmed or as though there is too much to absorb, ultimately leaving you none the wiser. There is no information overload here.

The museum consists of 11 small rooms. Its overriding theme is “The Path from Yesterday to Today: Melk Abbey in its Past and Present,” and each room features a specific theme. What follows are snippets of interesting information taken from the guide’s explanations throughout the museum tour and my impressions.

Room 3 (“The Ups and Downs of History”) features a wavy floor, symbolising life’s ups and downs. The flooring is not the original Baroque, as Napoleon was an unfortunate guest who burned documents on it.

Rooms 5 and 6 pay tribute to Melk Abbey’s contribution to the Baroque period. The Baroque period was a historical era marked by excess and all that glitters (gold and more gold). “Heaven on Earth” seems to be an appropriate theme for this period. However, Room 7’s “In the Name of Reason” theme represents new times and a sensible, frugal monarch. Joseph II said the Baroque style was too expensive, but perhaps he was too frugal. Taking the Baroque style to the opposite extreme, he allowed only one coffin per church. The coffin designed to meet this requirement had a bottom that would open, allowing the corpse to drop through. Thus, the church could use the coffin again and again.

Room 10 (“To Glorify God in Everything”) contains a 17th-century iron chest for secure storage and transporting the abbey’s most important documents and treasures. The chest features a convoluted locking mechanism comprising 14 still operational locks.

The detailed model of Melk Abbey housed in Room 11 (“Motion is a Sign of Life”) rotates, allowing you to see all sides unobstructed. A mirror on the ceiling provides a view into the model’s courtyards.

The Marble Hall served as a reception area for guests and a dining hall for the imperial family. The name ‘Marble’ Hall is somewhat misleading, as only the door frames are genuine marble. The ‘marble’ on the walls is faux marble. However, I could overlook this due to the magnificent ceiling fresco, which is complemented and framed by stunning architectural paintings.

The abbey library

The library is the second most important room in any Benedictine monastery, second only to the church.

My favourite library to date has been the Coimbra University Library in Portugal. However, the competition between that library and Melk Abbey’s Library would be close; both are stunningly beautiful, and there is something uniquely special about the mix of dark wood and old books.

The Melk Abbey library, completed in 1735, houses approximately 100,000 books and 1800 manuscripts, some dating back to the 9th century. The uniformity of the books on the inlaid bookshelves results from them being bound to match. With internal balconies, wooden sculptures, a massive free-standing world globe, figurines, and frescoed ceilings, the library offers an entrancing vision. It also exudes peace and tranquillity; it is a place where I could easily spend hours just sitting and soaking in the atmosphere. I am waxing lyrical here, but I can’t help it. The Melk Abbey Library does that to me. It’s no wonder Umberto Eco conducted his research for his book, The Name of the Rose, in Melk Abbey’s library. But more on that later.

The library’s upper floor, added in 1768 and accessed via a Rococo-style spiral staircase, is not open to the public.

Melk Abbey’s literary connection extends beyond the books in its historical library.

The Name of the Rose, written by Umberto Eco (1980), is a historical murder mystery (a medieval whodunit) set in an Italian Cistercian monastery in 1327.

But what does a story about murders in a Cistercian monastery in Italy have to do with a Benedictine monastery in Austria? The connection is Melk Abbey’s magnificent library. The focal point in The Name of the Rose is the library where all the murders take place. Melk Abbey’s library is said to be Eco’s inspiration for the library in The Name of the Rose.

But the connection goes deeper than that. One of Eco’s main characters in The Name of the Rose is Adso of Melk, a Benedictine novice from Melk Abbey. The Name of the Rose is Adso of Melk’s story, as he is the narrator. As a way of introduction, Adso of Melk informs us that he is writing his narrative, now an old man, at Melk Abbey. On the last page of The Name of the Rose, Adso of Melk tells the reader he is leaving his manuscript in the library of Melk Abbey.

The guided tour concluded in the library. I stayed behind to soak in the library’s ambience before visiting the church at the guide’s recommendation.

The abbey church

My visit to Melk Abbey’s church was not part of the guided tour, but it is a must-see due to its Baroque architecture and ornate interior of gold leaf, stucco, and marble.

The Altar of Coloman is noteworthy because it contains a sarcophagus with the remains of Saint Coloman, the patron saint of Melk Abbey. Some of the Babenbergs, Austria’s first rulers, are also buried in the church.

The facade of an ochre-coloured, Baroque church.

Melk Abbey’s church is viewed from The Balcony.

 

The Balcony connecting Marble Hall with the library offers magnificent views of Melk’s Old Town and the Melk and Danube rivers.

 

Helpful Information

Photography is prohibited inside Melk Abbey’s museum, Marble Hall, the library, and the church.

You don’t have to take the 50-minute guided tour of Melk Abbey (except in the winter months). However, in my opinion, this would be a false economy, as the explanations provided by the guide throughout the tour were invaluable. The guide’s storytelling brought Melk Abbey to life, revealing all its traits.

Melk Abbey’s brochure for individual guests provides detailed information on prices, guided tour times, and a tourist map of the abbey.

I visited Melk Abbey on a shore excursion during a river cruise along the Danube River. However, you can reach Melk by train from Vienna if you’re not on a river cruise. I recommend leaving enough time to explore the old town of Melk.

 

Melk Abbey isn’t just a beautiful building perched above the Danube; it’s a living piece of Austrian history, rich in art, culture, and spiritual significance. Touring its imperial rooms, ornate church, and the awe-inspiring library was unforgettable. It’s no surprise that Melk Abbey is one of the most photographed stops on Danube River cruises. 

Whether cruising through the Wachau Valley or planning a land-based visit, Melk Abbey is absolutely worth your time. It’s a place where history breathes through frescoed ceilings, golden altars, and ancient manuscripts. It was a highlight of the cruise and one of the most memorable experiences of my trip through Austria.

If you’re looking for a cultural gem that combines architecture, history, and fabulous scenery, include Melk Abbey in your itinerary. You won’t be disappointed; I guarantee it is something special.

 

Editor’s Note: I first published this blog post in November 2019 and have since revised it for accuracy, thoroughness, and relevance.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025. All rights reserved.

 

Have you visited Melk Abbey or taken a Danube River cruise? I’d love to hear about your experience – drop a comment below!

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Join the conversation.

 

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An image with two photos: one of an ochre-coloured Baroque abbey on top of a hill, and the other of a modern fresco representing the cardinal virtue of Temperance. The image invites you to see Melk Abbey.

 

An image with two photos: one of a small garden in front of a building and the other of a Baroque entrance into a courtyard. The image invites you to see Melk Abbey.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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Asia Destinations Mongolia Reviews Travel Tips, Info and Resources

ADVENTURE TRAVEL MONGOLIA: A Homestay with a Wonderful Nomadic Family

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Dreaming of an Immersive, Authentic Travel Experience Off-the-Beaten-Path? Why a Homestay with Mongolian Nomads is Worth It.   Mongolia is one of the last places on Earth where a truly…

Dreaming of an Immersive, Authentic Travel Experience Off-the-Beaten-Path? Why a Homestay with Mongolian Nomads is Worth It.

 

Mongolia is one of the last places on Earth where a truly nomadic lifestyle still thrives. Scattered across its vast steppes, about one-third of the population continues to live as their ancestors did – moving with the seasons, herding livestock, and residing in traditional gers (yurts). While many travellers visit Mongolia for its dramatic landscapes and rich history, one of the best ways to experience its culture is through a homestay with a nomadic family.

During my journey through Mongolia, I had the incredible opportunity to spend two nights with a nomadic family in the beautiful Orkhon Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site recognised for its stunning scenery, deep historical significance, and vibrant culture. This homestay offered an intimate glimpse into a way of life that has remained unchanged for centuries. From learning how to milk yaks, make vodka, and erect a ger to riding horses across the rolling steppe and sharing meals, every moment was a lesson in resilience, simplicity, and hospitality. 

In this blog post, I’ll share my unforgettable adventure – from the journey to the homestay, daily life with my host family, and the cultural traditions that made this experience truly unique. If you’ve ever dreamed of stepping into the world of Mongolian nomads, read on to discover what it’s really like!

 

My daughter and I were visiting Mongolia on a photography holiday with Frui Creative Holidays. Our itinerary, arranged by Goyo Travel, included a homestay with a nomad family in the scenic Orkhon Valley. By the time we arrived at our homestay, we had been travelling through Mongolia for over a week, enhancing our photographic techniques through various experiences with a professional photographer.

Our trip included many highlights – a day spent captivated by the skills of Mongolian horsemen at a traditional horse festival, discovering dinosaur bones, climbing massive sand dunes that sang in the wind, interacting with monks, riding camels, and practising archery – all leaving lasting memories. However, the homestay with a nomadic family in the Orkhon Valley was the ultimate highlight of this trip.

Throughout my extensive travels, I have experienced numerous homestays in different countries, but I have always felt like an intruder and a tourist in my host family’s home. However, my homestay in Mongolia was the first time I felt accepted and welcomed by the host family, which allowed me to engage with their lifestyle and traditions.

10 powerful reasons to do a homestay with a nomadic family in Mongolia

If you’re dreaming of an immersive, authentic travel experience far from the usual tourist path, a homestay with a Mongolian nomadic family might be exactly what you’re looking for. Here’s why this unforgettable cultural encounter should be on your travel radar:

  1. Authentic Cultural Immersion: There’s no better way to learn about Mongolia’s heritage than by living alongside those who carry it forward every day. A nomadic homestay offers a window into age-old customs, daily routines, and values that remain largely unchanged for centuries.
  1. Learn Centuries-Old Traditions: From milking yaks and herding animals to playing traditional games and drinking airag (fermented mare’s milk), a homestay lets you engage with practices that have been passed down through generations.
  1. Experience Life in a Ger (Yurt): Spending the night in a traditional ger is a unique cultural experience. These portable round tents are ingeniously designed for the nomadic lifestyle – warm in winter, cool in summer, and surprisingly comfortable. You’ll gain an appreciation for the practical beauty of this centuries-old dwelling.
  1. Witness Mongolia’s Natural Beauty Up Close: Most nomadic families live in stunning remote areas like the UNESCO-listed Orkhon Valley. Picture rolling grasslands, distant mountains, grazing herds, and skies so clear you can see the Milky Way. It’s a peaceful, breathtaking setting you’ll never forget.
  1. Slow, Mindful Travel: Homestays encourage you to slow down and fully engage with your surroundings. With limited distractions and no tight schedules, you’ll connect more deeply with people, nature, and yourself.
  1. Support Local Communities: Your stay directly benefits the host family and contributes to preserving Mongolia’s nomadic culture. It’s a powerful way to travel responsibly and ensure your visit has a positive impact.
  1. Make Heartfelt Human Connections: Even with language differences, you’ll find the warmth of Mongolian hospitality unmistakable. Shared meals, laughter, and kind gestures create lasting connections that transcend words.
  1. A True Off-the-Beaten-Path Experience: Mongolia remains one of the world’s most untouched travel destinations. A nomadic homestay is the perfect way to venture off the grid and have a truly unique adventure far from the typical travel trail.
  1. Great Stories and Memories: Every part of your stay – whether horseback riding across the steppe, sharing tea in a ger, or helping herd sheep – becomes a story worth telling. These are the moments that turn trips into lifelong memories.
  1. It’s Life-Changing: Mongolia’s nomadic lifestyle, which involves living simply, close to nature, and in harmony with the seasons, can shift your perspective and inspire you to reconsider what truly matters.

A nomadic homestay in Mongolia isn’t just accommodation – it’s an experience that touches the heart, broadens the mind, and reminds you of the benefit of human connection.

Preparation and briefing

Before arriving at our homestay, our travel guide and translator gave us an invaluable briefing on Mongolian customs, particularly regarding proper etiquette when visiting a nomadic family. For example, do not step on the threshold of the ger, always walk to the left when entering, accept food with your right hand while supporting your elbow with your left, and never throw a tissue into the fire. This latter advice was timely as we were coming down with colds.

These customs reflect deep-rooted values of respect, hospitality, and symbolism in Mongolian culture.

Interested in learning more? I’ve compiled a comprehensive guide on Mongolian cultural norms and traditions, covering everything you need to know to feel prepared and confident during your visit.

Getting to the Orkhon Valley

The Orkhon Valley, one of Mongolia’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites (2004), is celebrated as a cultural site – the Orkhon Valley Cultural Landscape, representing the development of nomadic pastoral traditions spanning more than two thousand years. Often referred to as the cradle of Mongolian civilisation, the Orkhon Valley is a testament to the region’s profound historical and cultural heritage. Mongolian nomadic pastoralists still graze the grassland.

The Orkhon Valley Cultural Landscape lies in central Mongolia, about 360 kilometres southwest of the capital, Ulaanbaatar. It encompasses an extensive area of pastureland on both banks of the Orkhon River and includes numerous archeological remains dating back to the sixth century. This beautiful landscape was the land of our homestay host family.

A man squats beside a stream in a lush valley surrounded by mountains.

The Orkhon Valley – our home for two nights with a view we could never get enough of.

 

Our travel group comprised two Australians – my daughter and me – along with our English photography tutor and two Mongolians – our tour guide/translator and driver.

We travelled to our homestay in the Orkhon Valley from Talbiun Ger Camp on the edge of the Orkhon Valley National Park. According to Google Maps, the distance was 45 kilometres, taking about 1.5 hours to drive.

I hadn’t timed the journey because we made several photo stops along the way. However, travelling anywhere in Mongolia takes an inordinate amount of time to cover small distances. I put this down to the roads, if you can call them that! The ‘roads’ were indiscernible dirt tracks (and that’s a generous description) in terrible condition – eroded, potholed, marshy, waterlogged, and, at times, flooded. It was like driving an obstacle course! A 4WD vehicle is essential! And there were no landmarks to guide the way, especially in the Gobi Desert. At one point, I asked our driver (via our translator) how he found the way from A to B. He shrugged his shoulders and said (as translated), he just did. Beats me!

About half an hour before we arrived at the homestay, we stopped in the village of Bat-Ulzii for bread, eggs, tea, and other supplies to bring to the host family.

Arrival and Welcome

We arrived at the place where our host family had established their gers for the summer in the Orkhon Valley in time for lunch and a welcome drink of traditional milk tea, also known as suutei tsai, salt tea, or Mongolian salty tea. It is typically made with water, milk, tea leaves, and salt. I found it drinkable but would never order it.

Our hosts were Galaa and Oyunaa (pronounced Iona) – yak herders by trade. Together with their sons, daughters-in-law, and grandchildren, this extended family’s small cluster of gers stood proudly in the middle of the vast steppe, surrounded by free-roaming animals and distant mountains. It was an idyllic place to connect with Mongolia’s nomadic culture.

My daughter and I shared a ger, where we stayed for two nights. The circular, felt-covered structure was spacious, comfortable, and traditionally decorated, with a centrally placed wood stove for heating and wooden furniture, including beds, small chests, and chairs. The toilet was located some distance from the gers and similar in style (a deep pit) to the long drops we have at home, but at least it was private, enclosed by wooden walls and a door.

A young woman inside a Mongolian ger, with beds, chairs, and traditional decorations.

My daughter inside our homestay ger.

 

A small wooden shed situated in a lush valley surrounded by mountains.

A toilet with a view! Our host family’s toilet in the Orkhon Valley.

 

In the afternoon, we drove to the Orkhon Waterfall (Ulaan Tsutgalan), about two kilometres from our homestay, capturing photos at the top of the falls in the rain. After all, this was a photography holiday! The homestay experience was an added bonus.

A young woman works on a laptop placed on a chair outside a ger.

Remote worker! My daughter editing trip photos outside our homestay ger.

 

Immersion in Nomadic Culture

Our immersion into the daily life of a Mongolian nomad began in the late afternoon after returning from the waterfall, where we photographed Galaa milking the horses.

Mare’s milk is fermented into a traditional beverage called airag. It is known for its slightly sour and mildly alcoholic flavour and its potential health benefits due to the natural richness of mare’s milk in vitamins, minerals, and protein. Mongolians enjoy drinking airag, with both men and women and even children consuming it in bowlfuls from morning to night.

Galaa milking one of the mares. The family ferment the milk into a traditional beverage known as airag.

 

The next morning, I woke early to join Galaa and Oyunaa’s daughter-in-law before breakfast to photograph her milking the yaks. The process was the same as milking horses:

  1. The calves were tied to a rope running along the ground, ensuring that the mothers stayed close to their babies and did not have to be located and rounded up for milking, as the yaks roam free.
  1. The calves were put to their mothers to feed, stimulating their milk production and making it easier to hand-milk the yaks.
  1. Once milking was completed, the calves were put back on their mothers to finish feeding.

Yak calves are tethered to a rope to ensure their mothers stay nearby, preventing the need to round them up for milking.

 

Galaa and Oyunaa’s daughter-in-law milking one of the yaks.

 

We later learned how Mongolian nomads make vodka from yak milk.

After breakfast, we saddled up for a horse ride led by Galaa to the small Orkhon River waterfall before continuing to the main waterfall. My daughter and our photography tutor galloped across the steppe while I remained with Galaa, realising I was not as confident on horseback as I had thought. I firmly believe Galaa secretly wanted to gallop across the steppe with the others but was too concerned for my safety to do so.

This time, we photographed Orkhon Waterfall from the base of the falls, which required a precarious climb down the escarpment. The Orkhon Waterfall, fed by the Orkhon River yet located on the Ulaan River, is the largest waterfall in Mongolia. At ten metres wide and 27 metres high, water thunders down the gorge into a pool below. We set up our tripods and cameras on the rocks surrounding the plunge pool and spent an enjoyable couple of hours capturing images of the waterfall.

Galaa and our horses were patiently waiting for us to return for the ride back to our homestay.

In the afternoon, we watched Galaa and his sons disassemble and reassemble a ger. I was amazed at how quickly both processes were completed, with just three (and sometimes four) men undertaking the task – approximately 30 minutes!

Steps to erecting a ger:

In the evening, we watched Oyunaa make vodka from yak’s milk. The process was simple but steeped in tradition. A bowl of yak milk was placed over a wood-burning stove. A wooden drum with no bottom or top was positioned on top of the bowl. Then, another bowl was placed on top of the wooden drum. A cloth was wrapped around the drum and the top bowl to prevent air from escaping, and the top bowl was filled with (and topped up with) cold water. The condensation from the boiling milk and cold water caused liquid (vodka) to run down a wooden tube connected to the wooden drum, which dripped into a tea kettle.

Distilled milk vodka has a high alcohol content, typically ranging from 12% to 15% or higher. It is often served warm and plays a significant role in Mongolian culture, frequently used in toasts and rituals during festive occasions. It symbolises hospitality, friendship, and community bonding.

Everyone enjoyed the vodka!

Our homestay wasn’t just about learning nomadic customs and traditions; it also provided an opportunity to reciprocate – to share cultural insights. For example, Australians are raised on vegemite, while wrestling is Mongolia’s national sport. Galaa and our driver gave a wrestling demonstration, and my daughter, who had brought vegemite from Australia, offered them vegemite to taste.

Galaa and our driver demonstrated their wrestling skills.

 

Galaa said he liked the vegemite. This was a first for my daughter (who is also well-travelled) and me, as we had never encountered anyone who liked vegemite outside of Australia. Perhaps, when you have grown up on salted tea, vegemite is not such a huge stretch for the taste buds! Or was he just being polite? Unlike my daughter’s ungracious reaction to fermented mare’s milk, who also said she liked it before being sick.

Farewell and Reflection

Our homestay in the Orkhon Valley was in one of the most beautiful areas of Mongolia – a remote but peaceful and breathtaking setting that I will never forget.

A stream runs through a lush valley surrounded by mountains and cattle grazing.

The Orkhon Valley – our Mongolian host family’s summer backyard.

 

Our host family’s hospitality was unparalleled. I felt genuinely welcomed and appreciated, and for two nights, I experienced a true sense of belonging – something rarely experienced as a traveller.

Spending time with Galaa, Oyunaa, and other family members offered a genuine introduction to the nomadic culture and life in the Orkhon Valley. It was one of the most authentic travel experiences I’ve ever had, and it made me appreciate the resilience, simplicity, and deep connection Mongolian nomads have with nature.

Practical Information

You can book a homestay with Goyo Travel, which offers the itinerary Among Nomads – Heartland. This itinerary includes a stay with Galaa and his family and additional homestays.

We visited Mongolia in the summer, late July and early August. The weather was warm at that time of year, and the landscapes were lush. Traditional festivals were also on the calendar. If you want to experience extreme nomadic life, then the Mongolian winter (November to February) is the time to visit.

 

Spending two nights with a Mongolian family in the Orkhon Valley deeply enriched my understanding and appreciation of the resilient spirit of Mongolian nomads. It wasn’t just about witnessing a different way of life but immersing myself in it. 

This homestay reminded me that true adventure lies in stepping beyond our comfort zones and embracing the unknown. The Mongolian nomads live a life of simplicity, yet their connection to nature, family, and tradition is truly profound. While modern conveniences were few, the richness of their culture was abundant.

This wasn’t just a homestay; it was a glimpse into the soul of Mongolia, a soul that will forever hold a special place in my travel memories. 

If you ever have a chance to visit Mongolia, I highly recommend seeking out an authentic nomadic homestay. It’s a journey back in time, a lesson in adaptability, and an experience that will stay with you long after you leave the steppe.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos, except the feature photo, are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025.

I thank and acknowledge Meg Speak for allowing me to use her photo as the feature image for this blog post.

 

Would you do a homestay with a Mongolian nomadic family?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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The image includes two photos - a small wooden shed situated in a lush valley and a woman milking a yak.

The image has two photos - a man squatting beside a stream in a lush valley surrounded by mountains, and two nomadic men securing ropes on a ger.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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Two gers set on the steeps with mountains in the background. A mongolian nomadic man walks in front of one of the gets.MONGOLIAN CULTURAL NORMS AND TRADITIONS – HOW TO PREVENT CULTURAL ERRORS (2023 Updated). Cultural sensitivity when travelling is a sign of deep respect. Prevent social and cultural faux pas through ignorance. Know before you go!

 

A person is fossicking for dinosaur fossils along an escarpment of the Flaming Cliffs in Mongolia's Gobi Desert.DINOSAUR FOSSIL HUNTING IN MONGOLIA’S GOBI DESERT AT THE FLAMING CLIFFS (2023 Updated). The Flaming Cliffs are famous for the discovery of dinosaur eggs in 1923 and are one of the world’s greatest dinosaur fossil sites. Go fossicking!

 

Men in colourful robes sit on a wooden pole fence, with saddled horses behind them.A UNIQUE MONGOLIA HORSE FESTIVAL SHOWCASES IMPRESSIVE HORSE-RIDING TALENT (2023 Updated). Attending a local horse festival in Mongolia is a must. Read my Postcard to Home to learn about the extraordinary horseback skills I saw.

 

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025. All rights reserved.

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Asia Destinations Reviews Sri Lanka

HOW TO SPEND ONE PERFECT DAY IN GALLE FORT – Your Ultimate Guide! (2024 Updated)

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See Sri Lanka’s Colonial Galle Fort – a Must-Visit World Heritage Site Best Explored on Foot.   Welcome to Galle Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an iconic landmark…

See Sri Lanka’s Colonial Galle Fort – a Must-Visit World Heritage Site Best Explored on Foot.

 

Welcome to Galle Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an iconic landmark on Sri Lanka’s southwest coast. Galle Fort is a living testament to the island’s rich history and cultural fusion, offering visitors a unique and immersive e experience. Its cobblestone streets, ancient ramparts, intriguing museums, and vibrant markets make it a must-visit destination for any traveller to Sri Lanka.

This comprehensive guide takes you on a leisurely walk around Galle Fort. You’ll discover its historical sites and hidden gems, including the iconic lighthouse and historic Dutch Reform Church. As an ‘ultimate’ guide, I have included personal suggestions on where to eat, where to stay, and when to go.

From walking atop its well-preserved ramparts with panoramic views of the Indian Ocean to exploring its maze of streets lined with boutique shops, cafes, and museums, Galle Fort captures the essence of Sri Lanka’s diverse cultural heritage.

So, whether you’re a history buff, a culture enthusiast, or just looking for a relaxing walk around a beautiful, quaint city, Galle Fort is perfect for you. Follow my guide and spend one perfect day in Galle Fort, exploring the best of what it has to offer.

 

Why visit Galle Fort?

Galle Fort is rich in history, with 400 years of Portuguese, Dutch, and British colonialism. Built by the Portuguese in 1589, the Dutch seized the Fort in 1640 and extended its fortifications, which survive to this day. The British modified the Fort after the Dutch handed it to them in 1796. Galle Fort is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and remains the best example in south and southeast Asia of a fortified town built by Europeans.

Galle Fort is protected by a wall (ramparts) with 14 bastions that have seen little change since the Portuguese completed it in 1729. The fortifications run for 3 kilometres and are over 1 metre thick. Inside the Fort is a mixture of architecture, with Dutch-colonial buildings, ancient mosques and churches, and grand mansions. Here, you will find cafés, restaurants, boutiques, museums, and hotels. It is also a thriving commercial centre.

With a relatively flat area of only 0.52 square kilometres within the fortifications, Galle Fort is easy to walk around and see everything. It is also a good base for day trips to the southern beaches, gardens, tea factories, rain forests, and nature walks. 

Sri Lanka holds some memorable highlights for me, such as walking the railway line between Ella and Demodara, our visit to Geoffrey Bawa’s garden, and a perfect day exploring Galle Fort.

Galle Fort location and getting there

Galle Fort is a historically fortified town, with the New Town of Galle outside the walls. The Fort is on the southwestern tip of Sri Lanka, 126 kilometres (78 miles) down the west coast from Colombo (Sri Lanka’s capital).

I travelled to Sri Lanka with my sister and brother-in-law for a three-week trip around this teardrop-shaped island. Ours was a private tour with a personal driver, the most comfortable way to get around. However, given its size, travelling around Sri Lanka by taxi, bus, and train is also possible as distances between sights are relatively short.

For a comprehensive guide on getting around Sri Lanka, check out Nerd Nomads’ travel blog post.

We took the coast road to Galle rather than the expressway at our driver’s suggestion. While taking the expressway would have been quicker (approximately 1.5 hours as opposed to approximately 3 hours), the coast road, according to our driver, is more interesting and scenic. And it was! Hugging the coastline, we passed through many small villages that provided a glimpse into local daily life, where farmers and fishermen continue to live and work as they have done for generations.

The drive down to Galle was our first real experience of driving in Sri Lanka. I have been in many countries where I thought the general population were terrible drivers, but Sri Lankan drivers take the prize. Their idea or practice of passing is downright scary.

Picture this: You have a two-lane road barely wide enough for two cars, with one lane for each direction. Suddenly, your lane has three vehicles side-by-side (including your own, with your driver on his mobile phone) as two vehicles want to pass one, and a bus is coming in the opposite direction. No one gives way as all four vehicles come level with each other, and all you can do is close your eyes and hold your breath. And yet, I never saw an accident!

I learned a valuable lesson on this drive – don’t ever think of doing a self-drive holiday in Sri Lanka, as you may never survive the experience. Their driving and use of the roads are, for these foreigners, positively frightening. My brother-in-law was never able to relax when we were driving. For some reason, he always managed to get the seat with a clear view out of the front windscreen, causing him to remain transfixed on the traffic and in a perpetual state of anxiety.

Galle Fort walking guide

We decided on an early start for our walk around Galle Fort, its bastions, ramparts (walls), and landmarks so that we would be finished before the day got too hot. In hindsight, it makes no difference in April, heat-wise, what time of day you venture out, as it is always very hot and wet (humidity, not rain).

After a leisurely breakfast at the Fort Bazaar (our hotel) of fresh fruit, bacon and eggs, and freshly ground coffee, we set off on our self-guided tour (walk) of Galle Fort. Following our route, you will visit all the major attractions and more.

A colourful tourist map of Galle Fort showing the rampart bastions and major attractions.

Gall Fort tourist map (Courtesy of Fort Bazaar)

 

Walking up Church Street (Galle Fort’s main thoroughfare) towards the main gate and the Clock Tower, we passed All Saints Anglican Church with its distinctive stumpy steeple and the Maritime Archaeological Museum.

Two people view colonia buildings, including a brick church with a short steeple.

All Saints Anglican Church with its distinctive stumpy steeple.

 

Our first stop on Church Street was at the Dutch Reform Church (corner of Church and Middle Streets). Originally built in 1640 and completed by the Dutch in 1755, the church is still in use. Tombstones removed from Dutch cemeteries are laid on the floor of the Dutch Reform Church – the oldest date from 1662. There are more tombstones in the church’s grounds.

Street view of the front of a white church next to another low-lying building.

Street view of the Dutch Reform Church next to Galle Fort’s library.

 

Tombstones are inlaid in the floor of a church.

Tombstones on the floor of the Dutch Reform Church.

 

Leaving the Dutch Reform Church, we continued up Church Street, making our way to the Clock Tower, our starting point for our walk along the Fort’s ramparts.

Heading east and past the Main Gate, we walked up onto the ramparts at the Moon Bastion, with its large Clock Tower built by the British in 1882.

Moon Bastion has an unhindered view of the ocean and is considered one of the main bastions of the Fort. It was built by the Portuguese in 1620 and strengthened by the Dutch in 1667 with a strong firepower base, including 16 canons. Sri Lanka’s Ministry of National Heritage has converted Moon Bastion into an art gallery with statues, sculptures, and art that depict people and events that mattered in the past.

From here, you can see the length of the northern ramparts (east to west) to the Star Bastion and Sun Bastion.

The northern ramparts are the most heavily fortified section of the ramparts as they protect the most vulnerable side of the Fort – the landward side. The Indian Ocean surrounds Galle Fort on three sides.

For those cricket fans: These northern ramparts, especially at the Sun Bastion, provide a good view of the Galle International Cricket Stadium outside the Fort. This massive, 30,000-seater stadium has hosted more than 100 one-day international matches. Australian bowler Shane Warne claimed his 500th Test wicket at the stadium in 2004. In 2010, Sri Lanka’s legendary cricket player, Muttiah Muralitharan, played his last match at this venue. However, as of July 2018, Galle International Cricket Stadium was at risk of losing its UNESCO World Heritage status due to the unauthorised construction of a 500-seat pavilion.

Turning south at the Sun Bastion, we came to the Fishmark Bastion, built to protect the local fishing boats.

Two fishermen are cutting up fish on the beach with a boat behind them and one man buying fish.

Fishermen sell their catch of the day below Fishmark Bastion.

 

We left the ramparts at Fishmark Bastion to walk through Court Square, where we stopped at the Old Gate. This gate was the original entrance to the Fort and the only section of the Portuguese fortification that remains. The Fort side of the Old Gate is inscribed with the Dutch East India Company’s coat of arms, while the port side of the gate is adorned with a British coat of arms (which replaced the original Dutch crest).

Court Square is shaded by magnificent, massive banyan trees with branches that seem to spread forever. The Square houses the law courts (with the lawyers standing around in their black suits) and the Old Dutch Hospital (the white, two-story building on the left in the photo below). The Old Dutch Hospital is now home to shops and cafes.

Colonial buildings surround a large square with massive banyan trees. Two people on a motor bike and three people walking are in the Square.

Court Square with its massive banyan trees.

 

Heading south down Hospital Street, we found ourselves at the Point Utrecht Bastion, which is dominated by Galle Lighthouse. The British built the current lighthouse in 1939 after the original was destroyed by fire. With the lighthouse standing 26.5 metres high (87 feet), the light has a range of 47 nautical miles (87 kilometres / 54 miles) and is still in use. Galle Lighthouse is Sri Lanka’s oldest light station.

A group of people stand in front of a stone and cement lighthouse. The photo is in black and white.

Galle Lighthouse on Point Utrecht Bastion.

 

We climbed back onto the wall at the lighthouse and walked along the southern rampart towards Flag Rock. Along this south section of the wall, families gathered on the shaded grass, picnicking and playing cricket.

Walking past the Meeran Jumma Mosque, which looks very much like a European Baroque church, we came to Flag Rock, located on the southernmost end of the Fort. People dive from Flag Rock into the ocean – described as daring free-style divers. I saw a young man run along the top of the rock and dive from it. “Idiot” might be a better description than “daring”. “Clearly potty” is how one guidebook describes these jumpers. Perhaps they have insider knowledge of exactly where the submerged rocks are.

The top of a white mosque

Meeran Jumma Mosque

 

A boy dives off a rock into the ocean while other boys look on.

Local boys dive off Flag Rock.

 

We finally headed north as the ramparts hugged the west coast. We ended our ramble along Galle Fort’s ramparts near the army barracks, just before the Clock Tower where we had begun. Here, we cut across the village green past the Army Barracks, as I had thrown a hissy fit, being upset that we were still walking in the heat. This was a shortcut back to our hotel and a welcomed decision.

The guidebooks and tourist brochures inform you that the walk along the ramparts will take 90 minutes. We took almost twice that length of time due to the heat and constant stopping to take photos. It’s surprising how hard it is to lift your feet when weighed down by heat and humidity!

We made a couple more stops before returning to our hotel for a well-earned rest in our air-conditioned rooms.

We felt a long, cool drink on the wide veranda of the luxury Amangalla Hotel was warranted before visiting the Historical Mansion Museum (at 31-39 Leyn Baan Street – entrance is free). This museum has an extensive private collection of antiques and miscellaneous objects (described by one guidebook as “outright junk”). The collection belongs to Abdul Gaffar, a local gem merchant, and is displayed in an old Dutch mansion. In my opinion, Gaffar has a serious hoarding problem, with rooms and cabinets stuffed full of old typewriters, cameras, telephones, crockery, spectacles, jewellery and old Chinese memorabilia. To describe this collection as bizarre is to be very kind and generous. It was just downright weird! For that reason alone, it is worth the visit. The museum does provide insight into some traditional crafts with presentations of lace embroidery, gem cutting and jewellery making. However, be cautious if you have asthma because the museum is very, very dusty.

Where to eat

Lunch on our walk was at the Serendipity Arts Café (65 Leyn Baan Street), which one guidebook recommended. The food was good. I had a delicious chicken club sandwich, which was not very imaginative of me.

Our first night’s dinner was in the restaurant at the Galle Fort Hotel (at 28 Church Street), which was recommended by guidebooks.

The Galle Fort Hotel was a former gem merchant’s mansion. The restaurant’s setting was picture-perfect, with the tables on the wide veranda overlooking the pool and garden.

We had dinner at The Fort Printers (39 Pedlar Street) on our second night in Galle Fort. This elegant, small private hotel (a restored 18th-century mansion) was a printing facility in its former life. The original printing press is on display in the hotel lobby. We discovered this hotel on our morning walk. I found the menu limiting as I am allergic to seafood, which was the restaurant’s specialty. My sister and brother-in-law have no such allergy and loved the menu choices. However, the menu included chicken, lamb, and vegetarian dishes. The restaurant is in a lovely setting in a courtyard around a small pool. We were tucked into an alcove at the side of the courtyard that afforded a good level of privacy, which was just as well as our conversation became quite lively and animated. Even so, our waiter did not forget us. The staff were friendly, attentive, knowledgeable about their menu, and ready to answer any questions. The food was so good we went back a second night.

Where to stay

We stayed three nights at Fort Bazaar inside Galle Fort’s fortified walls.

Fort Bazaar (at 26 Church Street, Galle Fort) was formerly a 17th-century merchant’s townhouse. Opening in 2016, Fort Bazaar is a small, luxury boutique spa hotel. Its 18 rooms are spacious, cool, and contemporarily furnished with comfortable four-poster beds. It is in a central location within the Fort, and complimentary tea and cakes are served daily between 3.00 and 4.00 pm on the terrace. My kind of hotel! I could not fault the staff, who were friendly, attentive and helpful. It was Sri Lankan hospitality at its best!

When to go

The weather can significantly affect your travel experience and will probably be one of the most important factors in your decision when to visit Sri Lanka. Sri Lanka has a tropical climate with a dry season and two wet (or monsoon) seasons.

With its rich history and stunning colonial architecture, Galle Fort offers a unique blend of culture and natural beauty throughout the year. However, certain seasons may be more suitable depending on your preferences and travel goals.

Galle, and subsequently Galle Fort, experiences the following seasonal patterns:

  • Dry Season: December to March – lowest rainfall and most days of sunshine
  • First Inter-Monsoon Season: April – a transition in weather patterns with relatively dry days and occasional rain
  • Southwest Monsoon (Yala Monsoon): May to September – more frequent rainfall, particularly in June and July
  • Second Inter-Monsoon Season: October to November – more rain than the dry season but less than during the Southwest Monsoon

I recommend you refer to the World Weather site for Galle for a comprehensive list of daily average minimum and maximum temperatures per month, average total rainfall per month, and average number of rain days per month.

On a personal note, the humidity was 80% during our walk around Galle Fort, which caused havoc with our DSLR cameras – fogged-up lenses and constant error messages that prevented photos from being taken. While I have never conclusively found out if these problems were due to the humidity, it is certainly something to be aware of.

The humidity also impacted my clothing. I wasn’t just perspiring; I was completely wet! I was wearing a dark pink T-shirt that I had washed several times before this trip. However, the pink dye was coming out of my T-shirt. It stained my body, camera strap, and camera where they touched the T-shirt. To top it off, the colour was bleached entirely out of the T-shirt where my backpack was touching it – to the point where my T-shirt looked as though it had been tie-dyed.

 

As your day draws to a close, you’ll find that this historic town has offered more than just a walk through time. From the majestic views atop the ramparts to the charming streets lined with Dutch colonial buildings, every moment spent in Galle Fort is a reminder of the rich tapestry of cultures that have shaped this unique destination. Whether you’ve indulged in the local cuisine, explored iconic landmarks and hidden gems, or simply soaked in the laidback atmosphere, Galle Fort leaves an unforgettable memory on every traveller.

But Galle Fort is not just a destination; it’s a journey through history, culture, and beauty, all within a day’s walk. So, if you’re planning a trip to Sri Lanka, make sure you add Galle Fort to your itinerary. You won’t regret it.

 

Editor’s Note: I originally published this blog post in April 2019 and have updated it for accuracy, relevance, and comprehensiveness.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and unsponsored. Unless expressly stated, all photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2024.

 

Have you been to Galle Fort? What other tips, information, and resources might you suggest for my readers?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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a Pinterest pin with two photos - one of a stone wall a palm trees on the ocean foreshore and the other of a white dutch-colonial church.

A Pinterest pin with two photos - one of statues of soldiers with firearms between bastions and the other of a boy diving off a rock into the ocean with other boys looking on.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

Sign up to receive the latest in travel destinations, topics, resources and guides.

 

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Learn where to find the best wildlife encounters, discover the natural beauty of the Hill Country, explore six World Heritage sites, wander through untamed gardens, and so much more.

Escape the crowds and visit Geoffrey Bawa’s garden. It is largely undiscovered by tourists, being something different from the ‘usual’ tourist attraction. Organise to have lunch while you are there.

Do as a local and walk the 6.5 kilometres along the railway line from Ella, across the iconic Nine Arch Bridge, and onto Demodara Railway Station. Catch the train back to Ella to complete your experience.

Read my review of my stay at Wallawwa in Sri Lanka – luxury accommodation in an 18th-century colonial manor house.

 

I climbed Little Adam’s Peak in Ella, Sri Lanka – and let’s just say it wasn’t the breezy stroll the guidebooks promised. Know before you climb!

 

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Destinations Europe Italy Photo Stories

15 PHOTOS TO INSPIRE YOU TO VISIT THE UNIQUE SASSI di MATERA, ITALY (2024 Updated)

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Sassi di Matera: The Stone City of Italy and a UNESCO World Heritage Site Steeped in History and Charm.   Welcome to the mesmerising world of Sassi di Matera, a…

Sassi di Matera: The Stone City of Italy and a UNESCO World Heritage Site Steeped in History and Charm.

 

Welcome to the mesmerising world of Sassi di Matera, a unique and ancient destination. Matera, a city in Italy’s southern region of Basilicata, is renowned for its extraordinary cave dwellings and rock-cut architecture, collectively known as the Sassi. These ancient settlements, carved into limestone cliffs, have earned the Sassi di Matera a place on UNESCO’s World Heritage List and have captivated visitors with their rich history, unique charm, and breathtaking landscapes.

In this travel blog post, I’ll take you on a visual journey through 15 stunning photos that capture the essence and allure of the Sassi di Matera. Each image tells a story, inviting you into a world where cave dwellings, narrow winding streets and alleyways, and rock-cut architecture create an otherworldly landscape.

Whether you’re a history buff, a culture enthusiast, or simply seeking a destination off the beaten path, Sassi di Matera offers an unforgettable experience. Let these photos inspire you to pack your bags and immerse yourself in the wonders of this timeless Italian gem.

 

Situated in the “instep” of Italy’s “boot”, Sassi di Matera (literal translation from Italian, “Stones of Matera”) were declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1993, while Matera was awarded the 2019 European Capital of Culture. However, Matera, particularly the Sassi, did not always deserve these honours. Not so many decades ago, Matera’s Sassi was a place of national humiliation dubbed the “Shame of Italy”.

The Sassi di Matera has two districts – Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano. They are ancient! – prehistoric troglodyte settlements where people have lived in cave dwellings since 7000 BC.

The Sassi have a colourful history that has seen them go from the earliest inhabited city in Italy to a place of national humiliation to Italy’s pride. This history, which is still visible today, makes Sassi di Matera a matchless tourist destination.

 

A brief history – from shame to honour

In his book Christ Stopped at Eboli (published in 1945), Carlo Levi put Sassi di Matera on the world map when he highlighted the poor living conditions. He painted a picture of abject poverty. Malaria, cholera and typhoid were rampant in the Sassi. Families and their animals were living together under the same roof in dwellings with no natural light or ventilation, no electricity, water or sewers, and there was a high rate of infant mortality.

The Sassi became an embarrassment to the Italian Government. So much so that in 1950, the Prime Minister declared a state of emergency and put plans in place to move the Sassi’s inhabitants out. By 1952, the Sassi were empty – abandoned through forced removal.

After sitting dormant for a few decades, the Sassi began to transform, starting in the 1970s with artists and hippies rediscovering Matera’s Sassi. This urban renewal and a younger generation expressing their desire to bring the caves back to life led the Italian Government to pass a law in 1986 to repopulate the Sassi, connecting water and electricity and subsidising restoration work to encourage the Sassi’s revival.

And the people did come – restoring caves as homes, hotels, restaurants and bars. But many are still uninhabitable.

Cave houses, many of which are abandoned, in a troglodyte settlement in Italy.

Abandoned cave dwellings in Matera’s Sassi.

 

Cave houses in a troglodyte settlement. Some are obviously uninhabited.

Not all the cave dwellings in the Sassi are inhabited.

 

Sassi di Matera’s revival was further cemented in 1993 when UNESCO listed it as a World Heritage Site for being “the most outstanding, intact example of a troglodyte settlement in the Mediterranean region” and being named 2019 European Capital of Culture.

Matera has reclaimed its dignity and credibility in the eyes of Italy and the world.

 

Discover Sassi di Matera

I travelled to Matera on a 17-day small group tour with Albatross Tours on their Italy, the Deep South & Sicily tour, staying two nights in the Sassi.

The Sassi are carved into the limestone cliffs of a deep ravine gouged out by the Gravina River. First viewed from across the ravine, the Sassi di Matera were like nothing I had seen before. I have visited Troglodyte caves in France and spent time in Cappadocia in Turkey. But the Sassi di Matera, with caves stacked on each other while clinging to the steep slope, was a stand-alone matchless sight. Then, creating a unique juxtaposition, the modern city of Matera overlooks the Sassi from its height at the top of the hill.

A mass of cave houses on a hill are viewed from across a ravine. There is a stone church bell tower on top of the hill.

Sassi di Matera viewed from across the ravine.

 

An abandoned troglodyte settlement (cave dwellings) sits below a modern city on the side of a hill.

The modern city of Matera sits on top of the ancient Sassi.

 

My first ‘taste’ of Sassi di Matera and what it must be like to live in the Sassi was my accommodation for two nights in the luxury Le Grotte della Civita – a cave hotel on the edge of the ravine in the most ancient Sassi area.

A hotel room in a cave, with a double bed, bath, and table and chairs. the cave room is lit by candles.

My hotel room – a restored cave in Le Grotte della Civita.

 

Le Grotte della Civita consists of 18 large ‘rooms’ with ensuites. All the rooms are individual caves that have been beautifully restored whilst retaining their original features. The furnishings were simple but tasteful, with much of the lighting provided by candles. The breakfast was served in a reclaimed cave that was once a church and was typical of southern Italy – consisting of various breads, cakes, pastries, meats, jams and cheeses. My stay at Le Grotte della Civita was truly memorable.

After a very comfortable night’s sleep and a delicious breakfast, I joined the walking tour in the morning with a local guide. Walking tours are a great way to get acquainted with a city and learn its history. The walking tour of Sassi di Matera was a fascinating history lesson while being introduced to significant sites. The tour included visiting a cave dwelling to see how families lived in their stone houses and viewing one of the ancient Rupestrian Churches with its biblical frescoes on the cave walls dating back to the Middle Ages.

By the end of the tour, I felt prepared to spend the afternoon and evening on my own, exploring and discovering the labyrinth that is Sassi di Matera. I was in my element, walking around the narrow streets and alleyways, talking to the locals, checking out their cafes, and having all the time I wanted to take photos. A word of advice: you will need comfortable shoes to walk around the Sassi as there are many steep steps to negotiate, given the Sassi are built on the side of a ravine.

An elderly lady dressed in black walks up stone steps that are under a stone arch.

There are lots of steps in Sassi di Matera.

 

Matera has 180 churches, 40 of which are in the Sassi, including the Cathedral and the rock-cut Church of Santa Maria di Idris.

A rock-cut church on top of a green hill with cave dwellings below it.

The Church of Santa di Idris.

 

My favourite church was the Church of Purgatory, constructed as a place for people to pray for the souls trapped in limbo between heaven and hell. Completed in 1747, its recurring and only theme is that of death. The baroque façade of the church and its doors are covered with carvings of skulls, skeletons, crossbones, and other death-related decor. While a church focusing on death might seem a bit Grim Reaper-ish, it was fashionable at the time of construction, as death was not seen as the end but as the beginning of a new life.

A skull and two skeletons carved into stone. One skeleton is holding an hourglass, and the other skeleton is holding a scythe.

Skulls and skeletons on the facade of the Church of Purgatory.

 

A wooden door carved with square panels of skulls and cross bones.

The Church go Purgatory’s carved wooden door.

 

Exploring the Sassi di Matera

While the Sassi may look like masses of houses, the house-like facades are only that, as the ‘houses’ are dug well into the rock, forming the cave dwellings Matera is famous for.

A photo of stone houses that are actually caves.

In the Sassi di Matera, caves look like houses.

 

A settlement of cave houses surrounded by purple flowers and green shrubs.

Sassi di Matera – a mass of cave dwellings that look like houses.

 

Houses in the Sassi are built on top of other houses, where many of the streets are built on the roofs of houses, and floors are ceilings of houses below.

Cave homes sit on top of each other, where you have roads forming roofs and floors, and the ceiling of the house below.

Sassi di Matera – roofs are streets, and floors are ceilings.

 

You would be forgiven for thinking the Sassi are a place of shadow and crampedness. But not so. The squares in the Sassi are sun-drenched open spaces flanked by cafes, shops, churches, and restaurants – great for people-watching.

A troglodyte settlement of cave houses built into the side of a hill.

Wander the Sassi di Matera.

 

Cave houses are viewed through a doorway.

View of the Sassi through a doorway.

 

Cave houses are built on top of each other on the side of a hill.

World Heritage Listed Sassi di Matera.

Historical and Cultural Timeline:

2019: Matera is the European Capital of Culture.

2014: Tourism starts to take off. This was most likely due to Matera being named the 2019 European Capital of Culture, and Matera began preparations for a year of events highlighting culture and the arts.

1993: UNESCO lists Sassi di Matera as a World Heritage Site.

1986: Italian law changes and people are encouraged to return to the Sassi.

1952: Abandonment of the Sassi through the Italian Government’s forced removal of its inhabitants.

Prehistory: (approximately 9,000 years ago) People first inhabited the Sassi.

Fun facts

Several Directors have used Sassi di Matera as a film location for their movies:

  • Mel Gibson’s controversial movie, The Passion of the Christ, 2004;
  • Pier Paolo Pasolini’s The Gospel According to St Matthew, 1964; and
  • King David was directed by Bruce Beresford and starred Richard Gere in 1985.

It would seem Matera’s Sassi makes for a great ancient Jerusalem.

The 2021 James Bond movie No Time to Die also used Sassi di Matera as a film location.

 

Sassi di Matera is not just a destination; it’s an immersive journey through time, offering a unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty that promises to leave a lasting impression on anyone fortunate enough to explore its enchanting streets.

The Sassi beckons, inviting you to witness a living backdrop as you explore a world where tradition meets innovation. The 15 photos you’ve seen here in my blog post are mere snapshots of the unforgettable travel experience that awaits you in person. Dare to wander off the beaten path!

 

Editor’s Note: I originally published this blog post in March 2019 and have updated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2024.

 

Have I aroused your curiosity about Sassi di Matera? Are you inspired to visit Italy’s unique Stone City, a valuable UNESCO World Heritage Site? I love hearing from you. Join the conversation and leave a comment below.

 

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The image has two photos. One photo is of an old lady walking up a flight of stone steps. The second photo shows a settlement of stone houses.

 

The image has two photos that show a troglodyte settlement. One photo is bathed in sunlight with purple flowers and green shrubs. The second photo shows abandoned cave homes below a modern city. The image invites you to visit Italy's Sassi di Matera.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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