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SPECTACULAR NORTHERN ETHIOPIA: A Photo Travel Guide from Lalibela to Lake Tana

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Ancient Churches Carved from Rock, Dramatic Highland Landscapes and Centuries of Living History. This Photo-Rich Travel Guide Captures Northern Ethiopia Through My Lens – One of Africa’s Most Captivating Regions….

Ancient Churches Carved from Rock, Dramatic Highland Landscapes and Centuries of Living History. This Photo-Rich Travel Guide Captures Northern Ethiopia Through My Lens – One of Africa’s Most Captivating Regions.

 

This photo travel guide traces my journey through Northern Ethiopia, including the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela and Tigray, the castles of Gondar, Lake Tana, the ruins of Axum, and the Simien Mountains, capturing moments of history, culture, and landscape through the lens. Each image reflects a region shaped by time, belief, and place – one of the world’s oldest and most compelling travel experiences.

 

Ethiopia, officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia, is a landlocked country in the Horn of Africa, bordered by six countries. It is a spiritually and historically rich country known for its ancient civilisations, strong cultural identity, and dramatic landscapes. Often called the cradle of humankind, it is home to important archaeological discoveries and has preserved its traditions, making it one of the few African nations never formally colonised.

Ethiopia is known for its welcoming people, distinctive cuisine, ancient monasteries, and for being the birthplace of coffee.

Northern Ethiopia captures the essence of the country’s ancient soul. As the heartland of Ethiopia’s earliest civilisations, the north is where history, faith, and dramatic landscapes come together most powerfully. Often described as the cradle of Ethiopian civilisation, this region is home to some of Africa’s most important archaeological, religious, and cultural sites – many of which are UNESCO World Heritage-listed.

My two weeks exploring Northern Ethiopia were a journey through one of Africa’s most extraordinary and least understood regions. While tourists flock to East Africa’s savannahs or Egypt’s pyramids, Ethiopia’s historical heartland remains quietly magnificent, with rock-hewn churches carved into mountain cliffs, ancient obelisks marking the ruins of mighty empires, and castles that seem transplanted from medieval Europe to the African highlands.

Northern Ethiopia is where human civilisation gave birth to Lucy, our 3.2-million-year-old ancestor. It’s where one of the world’s oldest Christian traditions has thrived uninterrupted for nearly 2,000 years, developing its own distinctive expression through art, architecture, and ritual. It’s where landscapes shift from the jagged peaks of the Simien Mountains to the vast expanse of Lake Tana, from the thundering Blue Nile Falls to the quiet pride of ancient Axum.

This was no easy journey, as reaching some of Tigray’s cliff churches required scrambling up rock faces, and the roads between destinations tested both stomachs and suspension systems. But it was precisely this remoteness, this sense of stepping off the well-worn tourist trail, that made every moment feel like a discovery. This is the story of that journey, from the rock-hewn wonders of Lalibela to the bustling streets of Addis Ababa, through a land where history isn’t preserved behind museum glass but lives and breathes in daily practice.

The Destinations: A Journey Through the North

Lalibela: Ethiopia’s Sacred City Carved from Rock

Lalibela is situated high in the Lasta Mountains at an elevation of 2,600 metres, surrounded by picturesque valleys.

Mountains surround farming land.

Lalibela is enclosed by the towering Lasta Mountains range, the third-highest range in Ethiopia.

 

Famous for its incredible 11 monolithic churches, carved downward into solid volcanic rock in the 12th and 13th centuries by King Lalibela, with roofs at ground level, Lalibela is unlike anywhere else in the world.

A complex system of narrow tunnels and passageways connects the churches. It was like a rabbit warren, creating a sense of mystical adventure as I moved from one church to another. At times, I felt like I was playing Indiana Jones as I traversed passageways that spanned sheer drops.

Each church has its own resident monk, and shoes must be removed before entering. In the end, I stopped tying my shoelaces.

King Lalibela “built” the churches to create a “New Jerusalem” for Christian pilgrims after Muslim leader Saladin captured Jerusalem, making access to the Holy Land difficult, and to rival Axum, home to the Ark of the Covenant. It is said that the king built the churches with roofs at ground level to hide them from his enemies.

Set apart from the rest of Lalibela’s churches, the iconic Biete Giyorgis (Church of Saint George), named after Ethiopia’s patron saint, is the most famous of Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches. Carved from a single block of volcanic rock in the shape of a Greek cross, to a depth of over 12 metres, this subterranean church is accessible via tunnels.

Biete Giyorgis (St George’s Church) has become an icon of Ethiopia.

 

Looking down on a rock-hewn church with a man in a white robe looking in a doorway.

Biete Giyorgis represents the spiritual heart of Ethiopia.

 

There are two versions of Biete Giyorgis’ history: one says it was built by King Lalibela’s widow after his death (about 1220). The other claim is that King Lalibela promised to build a church to Saint George, who was upset that there was no church dedicated to him.

Lalibela is not just a historical site but a living testament to Ethiopian faith, where worship has continued as it has for centuries, not staged for visitors. It is a vital pilgrimage centre for the Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church and home to more than 1,000 priests.

Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches are often called the Eighth Wonder of the World for their unique architecture and are also a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The journey north from Lalibela to Tigray brings a striking change in landscape. From Lalibela’s rugged Ethiopian Highlands, with volcanic hills and deep valleys, to Tigray’s more dramatic landscape, characterised by towering sandstone ridges, cliffs, and plateaus, interspersed with farming communities.

Round-shaped mountains and farming land.

The Gheralta Mountain range in Ethiopia’s Tigray region is home to some of the country’s oldest churches.

 

The Rock-Hewn Churches of Tigray: Sacred Sanctuaries in the Sky

The most iconic feature of Tigray’s Gheralta Mountains is the ancient rock-hewn churches carved by monks centuries ago directly into cliff faces, often requiring challenging climbs to reach but creating unique architectural marvels.

Tigray has 120 rock-hewn churches, dating from the 4th to the 6th century and still in use today. Unlike Lalibela’s churches, Tigray’s are carved directly into the cliff walls of the Amba Mountains – flat-topped mountains with almost vertical sides – or perched atop sheer-sided plateaus, making them difficult to access.

The Tigray churches are semi-monolithic. That is, they are partially excavated from a rock face or cliff and also feature constructed elements, such as masoned walls, or carved from caves.

Abreha We Atsbeha Church, which was relatively easy to reach, is widely regarded by experts as the finest church in Tigray. It was larger than any I saw in Lalibela, and its medieval frescoes depicting biblical scenes are remarkably well preserved.

Abreha We Atsbeha Church, viewed from the base of the hill.

 

Religious scenes painted on walls inside a church.

Well-preserved murals inside the ancient rock-hewn Abreha We Atsbeha Church.

 

The second Tigray church I visited was Wukro Chirkos Church, which was also easily accessible. It is a semi-monolithic cruciform-shaped church that has been in continuous use for over 1,600 years.

Wukro Chirkos Church is a historic rock-hewn church, dating back to the 4th century.

 

Wukro Chirkos Church’s murals of saints were blackened by fire centuries ago.

 

There was one more church on the itinerary to visit, but there was no way I was going to climb to churches that demanded hugging rock faces!

The drive from Tigray’s sky-high churches to Axum, Ethiopia’s ancient capital, was a journey through spectacular scenery at every turn.

Flat-top mountains with farming land on top and deep valleys.

I never tired of seeing and photographing northern Ethiopia’s ever-changing landscape.

 

Axum: Birthplace of Ancient Civilisation

Axum is where Ethiopian civilisation began and is one of Ethiopia’s most important historical sites. It was the powerful capital of the ancient Axumite Kingdom, which, between the 1st and 8th centuries CE, rivalled Rome and Persia as a significant trading empire.

Today, Axum is home to extraordinary archaeological treasures and sacred sites, including the stelae field, the palace ruins associated with the Queen of Sheba, and the Church of St. Mary of Zion, which is believed to house the Ark of the Covenant.

Axum’s most recognisable landmarks are its towering granite stelae in the Northern Stelae Field. These ancient obelisks, carved from a single piece of stone and some over 20 metres tall, mark the tombs of kings and nobles. The engraved stelae mark the graves of the kings of the Axumite dynasty, while the unengraved stelae mark the graves of nobles.

Not all stelae have stood the test of time. The collapse of one king’s stela enabled exploration of the tomb’s interior, a labyrinth of tunnels and rooms.

Tall engraved and non-engraved obelisks, with a collasped stelae in the foreground.

The Northern Stelae Field, Axum – the graveyard markers of Axumite kings and nobles.

 

Also located in the Northern Stelae Field is the Edna Iyesus Church (Church of St Jesus), an ancient, historically significant church known for its stunning, vibrant religious murals.

Among the most notable paintings are those depicting Mary and Child, saints and apostles, and St George slaying the dragon.

The stories and characters of the Bible come alive on the walls of Edna Iyesus through its vivid frescos.

 

Axum’s most sacred site is the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion, which, according to Ethiopian Orthodox tradition, houses the original Ark of the Covenant in the Chapel of the Tablet next to the church. According to legend, the Ark was smuggled from Israel to Ethiopia by Menelik I, the son of Solomon and the Queen of Sheba – a belief rooted in Ethiopia’s national psyche but regarded by historians as a powerful national myth.

No one is allowed to see the Ark of the Covenant except a single, virgin monk appointed to guard it, who never leaves the Chapel grounds and only appoints his successor before his death.

External view of the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion.

Nearby is the Bath of the Queen of Sheba – a massive, ancient water reservoir carved from solid rock, with stone steps leading down to it, where she reportedly bathed. Despite the legend linking it to the Queen of Sheba and Ethiopian tradition that she originated from Axum, it was not a personal bathing pool but a vital water source for the city. Today, it’s a significant religious purification site, especially during Timkat (Epiphany).

A body of brown water with a hill behind it.

The Queen of Sheba’s Bath, Axum.

 

In the western part of Axum are the ruins of the Palace of the Queen of Sheba, known locally as Dungur. The archaeological site comprises 50 rooms, a throne room with steps, a kitchen with a brick oven, and a drainage system. Although archaeologists debate whether it was truly the Queen of Sheba’s palace or a nobleman’s mansion from the same era, the Dungur site is the most widely recognised archaeological location associated with her palace.

The ruins of the Queen of Sheba’s Palace on the western outskirts of Axum.

 

The Simien Mountains: The Roof of Africa

It was a long drive from Axum to the Simien Mountains. The 264 kilometres took seven hours, with a stop for a picnic lunch on the side of the road, shared with cows, and the obligatory coffee stop.

Have I mentioned that Ethiopia has the best coffee in the world? Ethiopia is the birthplace of coffee, where brewing and drinking it are world-renowned rituals steeped in tradition and social significance. I was in coffee heaven, and whenever I could, I took part in the coffee ceremony.

But back to the long drive, which kept revealing the most spectacular scenery as we wound our way up through the Simien Mountains National Park – a UNESCO World Heritage Site of jagged peaks, massive escarpments and deep valleys. Sometimes called the ‘Roof of Africa’, it is home to Ethiopia’s highest peak, which rises to 4550 metres (14,930 feet). It doesn’t take much imagination to feel as if you are standing on top of the world.

Gallery – The breathtaking Simien Mountains:

I stayed two nights at Simien Lodge. Read my post about its unique heating system.

After many days of long-distance driving, it was a welcome relief to stretch my legs with walks in the national park.

Gondar: The Camelot of Africa

I never expected to see royal castles in Ethiopia. But Gondar has six castles in its Royal Enclosure (Fasil Ghebbi), which served as the royal residence for Ethiopia’s rulers from the 1640s to 1864 and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

A 900-metre wall encloses the Royal Enclosure’s seven hectares and contains churches, palaces, monasteries, and even a lion’s cage. The best-preserved is King Fasilidas’ castle, a three-storey fortress with battlements and towers, known locally as the Egg Castle for its egg-shaped roof.

The Palace of Empress Mentewab – one of the most powerful women in Ethiopian history.

 

As I wandered through these medieval ruins in the Royal Enclosure, it was easy to see why Gondar is known as the ‘Camelot of Africa’.

Nearby, the stunning Debre Berhan Selassie Church (Trinity and Mountain of Light Church) is the most famous place of worship in Gondar. Built in the 17th century, the church is renowned for its remarkable murals that cover the interior walls and ceiling. The walls depict biblical events, including the lives of Christ, Mary, saints, and martyrs, while the ceiling is covered with 135 painted faces of winged cherubic angels peering down at visitors. For reasons I never understood, none of the angels in any of the churches I visited had bodies; they had only faces and wings.

On the outskirts of Gondar is King Fasilidas’ Bath – a large rectangular pool with a three-storey pavilion within it, surrounded by stone walls through which the roots of ancient trees grow. The pool was empty when I visited, but it is filled once a year for Timkat (Epiphany) celebrations, when hundreds of pilgrims jump in to re-enact Christ’s baptism.

An empty pool with stone wall and two storey stone pavilion.

King Fasilidas’ Bath, Gondar.

 

Stopping for the mandatory coffee on the way to Bahir Dar, I couldn’t resist capturing the local street scene.

A group of men and women walking along a road.

Locals are going about their daily business.

 

Bahir Dar and Lake Tana: The Source of Life

Bahir Dar is a palm-lined, Mediterranean-style city on the shores of Lake Tana, Ethiopia’s largest lake and the source of the Blue Nile.

The beautiful setting of Desset Restaurant on the shores of Lake Tana, Bahir Dar.

 

The city is the gateway to Lake Tana’s island monasteries. The lake comprises 37 islands, around 27 of which have monasteries and churches and are accessible only by water.

Boating across Lake Tana, I was thrilled to see hippos and fascinated by the traditional tankwa reed boats used by locals to navigate the lake. These boats looked very sinkable!

A local paddles a traditional tank reed boat on Lake Tana.

 

Azuwa Maryam Monastery is one of the more accessible monasteries on Lake Tana, just a short boat ride from Bahir Dar across the lake. Its round church has a thatched roof and is famous for its stunning, occasionally gruesome, vividly coloured interior wall paintings depicting biblical stories and saints in the traditional Ethiopian style. Some paintings are applied directly to the walls, while others are painted on cloth and glued to the walls. I was advised by the priest who acted as a guide that the paintings are retouched every 300 years.

Religious iconography painted a a church wall.

The remarkable wall paintings inside Azuwa Maryam Monastery on Lake Tana, Bahir Dar.

 

Motoring past other island monasteries on Lake Tana, access to many is forbidden because, according to the boat driver, “women are a temptation”.

Blue Nile Falls: Ethiopia’s Impressive Waterfall

About 30 kilometres from Bahir Dar’s peaceful lakeside lies a place where the tranquillity of Lake Tana gives way to the power of Blue Nile Falls, locally known as Tis Issat, or “the water that smokes” – one of Ethiopia’s most dramatic natural sights.

The mighty Blue Nile Falls.

 

Read my post on Blue Nile Falls to learn about my visit to this breathtaking waterfall, why locals call it Tis Issat, and to see more photos that will inspire you to add these falls to your Ethiopian bucket list.

Addis Ababa: Ethiopia’s Dynamic Capital

Addis Ababa is located in the foothills of the Entoto Mountains, at an elevation of 2,400 metres, making it the third-highest capital city in the world.

I had begun my journey around northern Ethiopia in Addis Ababa, but didn’t have the chance to explore the city until my return at the end of my trip. Even then, I had only a day and a night to see what the city had to offer.

My visit to Holy Trinity Cathedral included a tour of the massive tombs of Emperor Haile Selassie and his wife, Empress Menen Asfaw. Haile Selassie was the last Emperor of Ethiopia, ruling from 1030 to 1974. Unusually, walking through the cathedral’s gardens meant dodging numerous tortoises roaming free.

The tombs of Emperor Haile Selassie and his wife

 

My highlight of Addis Ababa was the three hours I spent at the Ethnological Museum. This delightful, well-organised museum, located within Addis Ababa University, is dedicated to preserving, studying, and presenting Ethiopia’s rich cultural heritage. Exhibits cover the lifecycles, cultures, and artifacts of Ethiopia’s 80 ethnic groups, including musical instruments, clothing, tools, jewellery, religious manuscripts, ceremonial items, paintings, and much more.

 

Travelling through Northern Ethiopia is not just a journey across landscapes but a passage through time and tradition. From the mystical rock-hewn churches of Lalibela and Tigray, where faith is carved into stone and lived each day, to the ancient stelae and legends of Axum, the region’s history is as tangible as its dramatic scenery. The castles of Gondar, the breathtaking heights of the Simien Mountains, and the tranquil waters of Lake Tana each tell their own stories – of empires, spirituality, and the enduring resilience of the Ethiopian people. 

What makes Northern Ethiopia truly unforgettable is the way history, culture, and daily life are inseparable. Here, the past is not locked away in museums but is part of the present, seen in rituals of worship, vibrant art, and the warmth of local hospitality. The challenges of travel – rugged roads, steep climbs, and, at times, a limited tourism infrastructure – are far outweighed by the rewards: moments of awe, connection, and discovery that linger long after the journey ends, and the best coffee in the world.

Whether you’re drawn by the call of adventure, the allure of ancient mysteries, or the simple pleasure of sharing coffee with new friends, Northern Ethiopia offers an experience as enriching as it is unique. May this photo travel guide inspire you to explore, ask questions, and embrace the wonders that await in this extraordinary corner of Africa.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2026. All rights reserved.

 

Did this post add Ethiopia to your bucket list? What sealed the deal, or what’s holding you back?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation and leave a comment below.

 

Like this post? Save it for Later!

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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Round stone huts with straw roofs set in green mountains.SIMIEN MOUNTAINS ETHIOPIA: When “Plastic Card” Means Warmth (Not what you think!). International travel inevitably presents translation challenges. Read about my communication issue in Ethiopia’s Simien Mountains that I can laugh about now, but, at the time, impacted my physical comfort.

 

 

A panel of text telling the story of Ethiopian coffee culture and a woman's hands using a pestle and mortar.UNVEILING THE ETHIOPIAN COFFEE CEREMONY: Experience a Perfect Cultural Delight. Journey to the birthplace of coffee – Ethiopia, where coffee isn’t just a drink but a ritual steeped in tradition and social significance. Learn the ritual steps of Ethiopia’s coffee ceremony.

 

 

A wide waterfall raised white clouds of mist as it plunges into a natural pool.DISCOVER WHY BLUE NILE FALLS SHOULD TOP YOUR ETHIOPIA BUCKET LIST. Step into my visit to Blue Nile Falls in Ethiopia – a simple boat ride, a scenic walk, and an unforgettable moment in one of Africa’s great landscapes.

 

 

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Africa Ethiopia Postcards to Home

DISCOVER WHY BLUE NILE FALLS SHOULD TOP YOUR ETHIOPIA BUCKET LIST

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Exploring One of Africa’s Hidden Gems: Blue Nile Falls (Tis Issat) in Ethiopia     Dear Family, Hello from Tis Issat (Blue Nile Falls) in Ethiopia. As you know, I…

Exploring One of Africa’s Hidden Gems: Blue Nile Falls (Tis Issat) in Ethiopia

 

 

Dear Family,

Hello from Tis Issat (Blue Nile Falls) in Ethiopia.

As you know, I love waterfalls, and Blue Nile Falls did not disappoint. They are known locally as Tis Issat, meaning “the water that smokes”. It’s an apt name – when the Blue Nile River is in full flow, the falls send thick clouds of spray high into the air like wisps of smoke, leaving you feeling quite damp.

Located about 30 kilometres downstream from Lake Tana, the source of the Nile, Blue Nile Falls are the second largest waterfalls in Africa, after Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. Regardless of its ranking, as the river plunges over a basalt cliff that is 400 metres wide and 45 metres deep, what I saw was a breathtaking display of power and beauty.

Leaving Bahir Dar, where I was staying on Lake Tana, my guide and two other women drove to the small town of Tis Abay (meaning “the smoking Nile” and the name most travellers know the falls by) for our walk to Blue Nile Falls (Tis Issat).

You might see the Blue Nile Falls called Tis Issat or Tis Abay, so I’ll explain the difference the way my local guide did.

  • The waterfall itself is called Tis Issat, “the water that smokes”, named for the mist that rises in drifting white clouds.
  • The nearby town where every visit to the falls begins is Tis Abay. “Abay” is the Amharic word for the Blue Nile, so Tis Abay roughly means “the smoking Nile”, linking the town to the river that feeds the waterfall.

People understandably confuse the two names, but locals don’t – Tis Issat is the waterfall, and Tis Abay is the place you start your walk to it.

From Tis Abay, we crossed the Blue Nile in a small local boat, gliding over a calm, narrower stretch of the river. Once on the far bank, the rest of the journey was on foot, an easy 1.5-kilometre walk following the river on a dirt track and accompanied by several small children trying to sell us souvenirs.

As we rounded the escarpment and the waterfall came into view, I was awestruck, my heart racing with excitement at the spectacular sight. The Blue Nile River thundered down the cliff face into a natural pool with unstoppable force, sending up clouds of spray before dropping again into the gorge below.

Our guide told us we were lucky to see the Blue Nile Falls actually flowing, especially given its volume, because a hydroelectric dam was built between Lake Tana and Blue Nile Falls, and the waterfall is only ‘switched on’ on certain days of the week. We were there on a Saturday, and according to our guide, the waterfall is not ‘switched off’ on weekends.

There was a thatched, wooden coffee house within sight of the falls, and we had to stop before heading back to Tis Abay to take part in Ethiopia’s ritual coffee ceremony, practised throughout the country.

As much as I love my coffee, I knew I was delaying the inevitable – leaving Tis Issat. The sound of the water and the quiet of the landscape made me want to linger longer. Blue Nile Falls is not just a sight to see, but one of those places you never forget.

Till the next adventure,

Joanna

 

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025. All rights reserved.

 

What’s a travel moment that took your breath away and stayed with you long after you returned home?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

Like this post? Save it for later!

An image with two photos of a waterfall taken from different angles.

An image with two photos: one of two people in front of a waterfall, and the other of a structure made of wooden poles and with a thatched roof.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

Sign up to receive the latest in travel destinations, topics, resources and guides.

 

You might also like

A church in the shape of a cross carved downwards in the volcanic rock.SPECTACULAR NORTHERN ETHIOPIA: A Photo Travel Guide from Lalibela to Lake Tana. Explore Northern Ethiopia’s ancient churches, castles, and breathtaking landscapes in this photo travel guide. Discover history, culture, and adventure through stunning images and insightful stories.

 

A panel of text telling the story of Ethiopian coffee culture and a woman's hands using a pestle and mortar.UNVEILING THE ETHIOPIAN COFFEE CEREMONY: Experience a Perfect Cultural Delight. Journey to the birthplace of coffee – Ethiopia – where coffee isn’t just a drink but a ritual steeped in tradition and social significance. Learn the ritual steps of Ethiopia’s coffee ceremony.

 

Round stone huts with straw roofs set in green mountains.SIMIEN MOUNTAINS ETHIOPIA: When “Plastic Card” Means Warmth (Not what you think!). International travel will inevitably lead to translation challenges. Read about my communication issue in Ethiopia’s Simien Mountains that I can laugh about now, but at the time, it affected my physical comfort.

 

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025. All rights reserved.

 

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Africa Destinations Senegal Travel Tips, Info and Resources

WHY VISIT SENEGAL, WEST AFRICA? Here are 11 Excellent Attractions

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My Senegal Highlights: The Best Things to Do in This Vibrant Country.   Welcome to the vibrant and captivating country of Senegal in West Africa. During my trip to this…

My Senegal Highlights: The Best Things to Do in This Vibrant Country.

 

Welcome to the vibrant and captivating country of Senegal in West Africa. During my trip to this extraordinary destination, I enjoyed experiencing a diverse range of incredible attractions that truly showcase Senegal’s unique culture, natural beauty, and rich history. From historic islands and vibrant cities to peaceful nature reserves and warm coastal communities, Senegal offers a remarkable array of experiences for all travellers that’s hard to match.

This post isn’t an exhaustive list of everything to do in Senegal – it’s my top highlights. These are the 11 experiences that left a lasting impression on me, stirring emotion, sparking curiosity, and making me say, “I’m so glad I came”.

If you’re considering a visit – or just curious about what makes Senegal so special – these highlights might just inspire your next adventure.

 

About Senegal

A young black man dressed in yellow shirts ans shirt kicks with a soccer ball on a beach.

Soccer is the second most popular sport in Senegal, after wrestling.

 

Senegal is a vibrant and culturally rich country located on the westernmost tip of Africa, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean. It is renowned for its dynamic blend of tradition, modern development, and natural beauty. Often considered one of West Africa’s most politically stable and welcoming nations, Senegal offers travellers a captivating mix of experiences – from historic sites and lively cities to stunning beaches and wildlife reserves.

The capital, Dakar, is a lively coastal metropolis renowned for its music, art, and nightlife, as well as its poignant history tied to the transatlantic slave trade, most notably at Gorée Island. Inland, visitors can explore the Great Mosque of Touba, the spiritual heart of the Mouride Brotherhood, or journey north to Saint-Louis, a UNESCO-listed colonial city with charming, faded facades.

Nature lovers will find plenty to admire, from the pink waters of Lac Rose to the birdlife at Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary and the roaming wildlife at Bandia Wildlife Reserve. The country’s coastline offers both bustling fishing towns like Kayar and peaceful resort areas along the Petite Côte.

Senegal’s rich culture is evident in its diverse ethnic groups, including the Wolof, Serer, Fulani, and Diola, each with its own distinct language, customs, and traditions. French is the official language, but Wolof is widely spoken. Renowned for its legendary teranga (hospitality), lively music and dance, tasty cuisine such as thieboudienne (a fish and rice dish), and a calendar filled with vibrant festivals, Senegal offers a truly engaging and authentic African experience.

 MY 11 REASONS TO VISIT SENEGAL

The purpose of this map is to show the locations of my Senegal highlights attractions, with three attractions in Dakar. The map does not cover my entire trip around Senegal. (Map data ©2025 Google)

 

Attractions

IFAN Museum of African Arts: A Pillar of West African Cultural Heritage

Visit the IFAN Museum of African Arts in Dakar to explore one of West Africa’s oldest and most significant collections of traditional masks, sculptures, textiles, and musical instruments, offering a profound insight into the region’s rich cultural heritage.

Established in 1936, the IFAN Museum of African Arts, officially known as the Théodore Monod African Art Museum, in Dakar, is one of the oldest and most significant art museums in West Africa.

It is a small, well-organised museum that covers all aspects of African culture, spanning centuries and regions, and is a delight to explore. I discovered exhibits of traditional clothing, carvings, musical instruments, ceremonial masks, tools, ceramics, textiles, weapons, and more. All the information plaques were in French, but I was fortunate to have a very patient guide who translated everything for me, as my schoolgirl French was insufficient to understand the written text. Had I visited the museum on my own, I would have simply been gazing at the objects without knowing the stories behind them.

Interestingly, I wasn’t allowed to take photos inside the museum with my camera, but I was allowed to do so with my mobile phone. Go figure!

During my visit, the IFAN Museum of African Arts hosted a comprehensive and brilliant exhibition that highlighted the differences and similarities among the former French West African colonies. Much of what I saw reminded me of my trip to Mali some years ago.

Visiting the IFAN Museum provides an insightful exploration of the artistic and spiritual traditions of West Africa. The artifacts on display change regularly, so even if you’ve visited before, it’s worth revisiting.

Museum of Black Civilisations: A Journey Through African Heritage and Global Dialogue

Visit the Museum of Black Civilisations in Dakar to explore a monumental celebration of African heritage and the global Black diaspora, where expansive exhibits – from ancient artifacts to contemporary art – highlight Africa’s profound contributions to world history, science, and culture.

The Museum of Black Civilisations, which opened on 6 December 2018, is a national museum in Dakar that traces the journey of Black civilisations from the cradle of humanity through the Iron Age, medieval empires, spiritual traditions, and the African diaspora, including slavery, resistance, and independence movements.

It is a groundbreaking cultural institution dedicated to celebrating the histories, achievements, artistic expressions, and global impact of Black civilisations across Africa. The museum’s extensive collection ranges from prehistoric tools and ancient sculptures to contemporary art and textiles, illustrating the significant contributions of African civilisations to global culture and science.

Although the information about the exhibits was written only in French, which my guide translated, I found it easy to follow and understand the timelines presented on my own.

I enjoyed the artworks on display on the museum’s upper floors. While able to discern the connection to the cultural artifacts I saw at the IFAN Museum of African Arts, these presented a modern perspective on the traditional.

The Museum of Black Civilisations was more than just its exhibitions. I found it to be an educational platform that explores Africa’s significant contributions to science, art, philosophy, and global culture, while also confronting the legacies of colonialism and the diaspora. Above all, it was a place for reflection!

Gorée Island: A Powerful Memorial to the Transatlantic Slave Trade

Gorée Island is a hauntingly powerful destination. 

Visit Gorée Island to walk through a powerful chapter of history, where pastel colonial buildings and the haunting House of Slaves tell the story of West Africa’s role in the transatlantic slave trade.

Colourful colonial buildings line Gorée Island’s harbour.

 

Just a short ferry ride from Senegal’s capital, Dakar, Gorée Island presents a charming exterior with its pastel facades and flower-filled narrow alleys while holding a deep history of centuries of pain, resistance, and remembrance. It offers an experience that is both enchanting and emotional.

Visiting Gorée Island on a day trip from Dakar, I walked through cells once used to imprison enslaved Africans and stood before the Door of No Return, reflecting on and haunted by the lives forever changed by the transatlantic slave trade.

Gorée Island was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978 to recognise its historical significance in the slave trade and its well-preserved colonial architecture.

A visit to Gorée Island is more than just a day trip; it’s a powerful encounter with history. Visiting it offers a sobering yet vital experience that connects past injustices to ongoing discussions about identity, heritage, and the pursuit of healing.

To discover the island in full and understand why it left such a lasting, emotional impression, read my blog post, A UNIQUE DAY TRIP: The Haunting Memory of Gorée Island, Senegal.

Fadiouth Island: A Unique Island Built on Shells

Visit Fadiouth Island to experience a one-of-a-kind village built almost entirely on seashells, where rich cultural traditions and peaceful religious coexistence create a truly unforgettable atmosphere.

Fadiouth Island: A mosque, a Catholic church, and a street made entirely of clamshells. Note the size of the wheels on the wheelchair (pushed by the man in the red shirt) needed to roll over the shells.

 

Fadiouth Island is also called “Shell Island” because this small island is entirely made up of cockle (clam) shells, a result of centuries of shellfish gathering. The residents collect the cockles at low tide, remove the meat, dry it, and discard the shells on the ground. These shells form the island’s foundation, streets, buildings, and pathways, creating a uniquely strange environment. According to my local guide, the shells are three metres thick. The crunching sound when you walk means there was no sneaking up on anyone!

The island is famous for its cemetery, which is also made entirely of shells. But what truly sets this cemetery apart is its testament to religious tolerance and peaceful coexistence. Throughout Senegal, Muslims and Christians are buried in separate cemeteries. However, in Fadiouth cemetery, the graves of Muslims and Christians lie side by side in the same sacred space.

Fadiouth Island is located on the southern edge of Senegal’s Petite Côte, about 114 kilometres south of Dakar, near the town of Joal.

Fadiouth is more than a quirky geological curiosity. The warm welcome from residents, their pride in their traditions, and their harmonious mixed-faith community, along with their willingness to share stories, made this island a place like no other I have visited.

Bandia Wildlife Reserve: Senegal’s Accessible Safari Experience

Visit Bandia Wildlife Reserve to experience an accessible West African safari, where giraffes, rhinos, zebras, ostriches, and antelopes roam freely among ancient baobab trees, all within a conservation success story just an hour from Dakar.

A white rhino, an ostrich, and a giant eland were just some of the animals seen in the Bandia Wildlife Reserve.

 

Just 65 kilometres south of Dakar, Bandia Wildlife Reserve is a private nature reserve covering 3,500 hectares of fenced savannah. It is a conservation success story that reintroduced native species that had been lost from the region for a long time due to poaching and habitat loss. Expect to see a diverse range of wildlife up close, such as giraffes, white rhinos, zebras, buffalo, antelopes, warthogs, monkeys, ostriches, and crocodiles – all from a hired safari vehicle or your own vehicle.

With a mix of wildlife and West African culture – think ancient baobab trees used as tombs – Bandia Wildlife Reserve is more than just a place to see native animals; it’s a testament to conservation, a visual reminder of Senegal’s diverse culture and natural beauty, and a chance to connect with the wild.

Bandia isn’t the Serengeti, but a well-managed, family-friendly reserve that brings the magic of African wildlife within easy reach of Dakar.

Discover why Bandia Wildlife Reserve gave me a better safari experience than some of Africa’s largest national parks: SAFARI BLISS IN SENEGAL: My Adventure at Bandia Wildlife Reserve.

Lac Rose (Lake Retba): Senegal’s Pink-Hued Wonder

Visit Lac Rose (“Pink Lake”) to witness its astonishing pink waters—caused by salt-loving algae—and experience the unique buoyancy of its hypersaline lake, all just an hour from Dakar.

Lac Rose (Pink Lake).

 

Lac Rose (also known as Lake Retba) is a stunning natural wonder in Senegal, located approximately 35 kilometres northwest of Dakar. A shallow lake (1.5 metres deep) surrounded by dunes, it is famous for its vibrant pink waters, caused by a salt-loving algae. The lake is at its most stunning pink hue during the dry season, from November to June, when there is little rain to dilute the salt.

With a salt content higher than the Dead Sea, you won’t sink when swimming in the lake – an unusual experience. Just make sure you have no open wounds or cuts.

Lac Rose has a thriving salt harvesting industry, utilising traditional methods to collect salt from the lakebed. I watched men wade into the lake with canoe-like boats to dig up the salt, shovelling bucket loads into their boats. Once full, they pushed the boats to the shore, where they transferred the salt into metal basins. Women carried these salt-filled basins, weighing about 50 kilograms, on their heads to the salt mounds on the shore. My guide told me that the women go back and forth for three hours straight – a hard job, but well paid.

Workers collecting salt from Lac Rose.

 

Lac Rose is not just a visual spectacle – it’s a place where nature, culture, and industry come together in vivid colour. Whether you’re drawn by its beauty, its stories, or its salt-laden waters, it’s a destination that leaves a lasting impression.

The combination of the pink lake, salt collection, salt mounds, and dunes provided me with numerous opportunities to capture exceptional and memorable photos.

Before leaving the area, my driver let some air out of the tyres for a thrilling drive over the dunes to the wild Atlantic coast.

Kayar: Senegal’s Vibrant Fishing Community

Visit Kayar to witness the vibrant rhythm of one of Senegal’s largest artisanal fishing centres, where colourful pirogues line the golden shores, and the daily catch drives rich cultural traditions and coastal life.

Kayar Fishing Harbour – Selling the morning’s catch directly from the boat.

 

Kayar is a lively coastal town about 60 kilometres north of Dakar. Best known as the country’s third-largest and most self-regulated artisanal fishing centre, Kayar is a place where the Atlantic Ocean, quite literally, feeds daily life. Each morning, Kayar’s beach transforms into a vibrant, open-air fish market where I had the opportunity to witness the local fishing culture firsthand.

Kayar was a hive of activity and a kaleidoscope of colour from hundreds of hand-painted, vividly coloured wooden pirogues (traditional fishing boats), each bearing unique family symbols. The boats, laden with fish, come to the beach and anchor onshore. Men go to the boats, buy the fish directly from the captains, and then sell the fish to the people waiting on the beach. And then it’s back out to sea for another catch.

The larger pirogues can carry a crew of 30 fishermen, who fish manually. The captain sets the price of the fish, based on the type of fish and how long it took to catch.

Boat building is a related industry along Kayar’s beach and is worth a visit – if you can drag yourself away from the activity along the shoreline – with the boats being handmade.

I didn’t explore the town itself but spent my time on the beach watching traditional practices in action. I can only describe it as a thrilling experience – one that should not be missed when visiting Senegal.

Kayar is not about luxury or arranged experiences – it’s about immersion. It’s where you witness the rhythm of life shaped by the tides, and where resilience and tradition meet in every haul of the net.

Saint-Louis, Senegal: A Timeless Island of Culture, History, and Charm

Visit Saint-Louis to soak up the charm of Senegal’s former colonial capital, where faded French architecture, a rich trading history, and a thriving arts scene come together on an island at the mouth of the Senegal River.

Saint-Louis’ French colonial architecture sets a backdrop for its fishing fleet.

 

Saint-Louis is an island and a city at the mouth of the Senegal River, 234 kilometres north of Dakar, near the border with Mauritania. It is connected to the mainland by the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Faidherbe Bridge, designed by Gustave Eiffel and opened to the public in 1897.

Faidherbe Bridge, designed by Gustave Eiffel, connects Saint-Louis to the mainland.

 

Founded in 1659 by the French, Saint Louis was the first French settlement in West Africa and served as the capital of French West Africa until the early 20th century. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is celebrated for its unique blend of faded pastel-coloured colonial buildings, vibrant street life, artistic flair, traditional fishing communities, and its famous jazz festival.

After settling into my hotel, I joined my guide to explore Saint Louis in a traditional caleche (horse-drawn cart). Though a very ‘touristy’ activity, it was a practical way to see much of the city in a short time and soak up its atmosphere. Later, I walked back to the areas I had seen on the caleche and wanted to revisit. I especially enjoyed wandering around the quaysides and poking my head into artists’ workshops.

Saint-Louis is more than just a place to visit. It’s where history hangs in the air and creativity flows like the river that surrounds it.

Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary: A Wetland Wonderland for Bird Lovers

Visit Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary to see one of the world’s most important wetland reserves, where more than 400 bird species – including immeasurable flocks of pelicans – gather in a serene UNESCO-listed habitat just north of Saint-Louis.

Pelicans in Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary were continuously taking off and landing.

 

Located 53 kilometres north of Saint-Louis, Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most important bird sanctuaries in the world. Opening in 1971 and spanning 16,000 hectares within the Senegal River delta, this wetland ecosystem comprises a network of lakes, streams, ponds, and backwaters.

Serving as a critical stopover for migratory birds crossing the Sahara, Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary hosts over 1.5 million birds annually, including more than 365 species such as white pelicans, flamingos, African spoonbills, great egrets, and cormorants. The optimal visiting period is from November to April, aligning with the peak migratory season, when birds arrive in staggering numbers.

I got to witness the migratory spectacle of white pelicans on a two-hour guided boat tour, with hundreds of pelicans gathered near the reeds, landing in the water, or taking flight in search of a less crowded resting spot. At one point, the pelicans streaked across the sky and down the waterway like planes on a bombing raid. It reminded me of the 1955 film The Dam Busters, as wave after wave of pelicans flew over our heads and to the side of the boat. A truly wondrous sight!

I saw at least a dozen bird species – and they’re just the ones I can remember. On our way back to the jetty, we motored past an island jam-packed with grey-coloured baby pelicans. According to the Djoudj guide, these babies were one and a half months old, and they don’t learn to fly until four months old. I saw some baby pelicans swimming in lines of three abreast, close to the island. It looked like a swimming school!

Djoudj is more than a bird sanctuary – it’s a living, breathing ecosystem that offers a front-row seat to one of nature’s most awe-inspiring migrations. Whether you’re a seasoned birder or a curious traveller, it’s a place that leaves you wanting more.

The Great Mosque of Touba: Spiritual Heart of Senegal’s Mouride Brotherhood

Visit the Great Mosque of Touba to experience one of Africa’s largest and most sacred Islamic sites – a stunning architectural masterpiece and spiritual centre of the Mouride Brotherhood, where the legacy of its founder, Sheikh Ahmadou Bamba, draws millions of pilgrims each year.

The Great Mosque of Touba, in the holy city of Touba, about 200 kilometres east of Dakar, is one of the most iconic religious landmarks in West Africa. Built in 1887 and continually expanded since then, the mosque is the holiest site for the Mouride Brotherhood, a powerful Sufi Islamic order. It houses the tomb of their founder, Sheikh Ahmadou Bamba.

The mosque is an impressive architectural marvel with five minarets, three large domes, and a prayer hall that accommodates over 7,000 worshipers. The interiors feature beautiful Italian terrazzo floors, Moroccan tiles, and handmade carpets.

The mosque is open to non-Muslims outside prayer times. I was provided with a long wrap-skirt and a scarf to wear during my visit.

Touba is a dry city where alcohol, tobacco, music, and dancing are prohibited to maintain its sanctity and devotion.

Visiting the Great Mosque of Touba is not just a cultural experience – it’s a profound encounter with Senegal’s spiritual soul, where faith, architecture, and community converge in harmony.

Kunta Kinteh Island: A Haunting Legacy on the Gambia River

Visit Kunta Kinteh Island to confront the haunting legacy of the transatlantic slave trade at a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where the ruins of Fort James and surrounding landmarks stand as solemn reminders of the resilience of those who endured unimaginable hardships.

The ruins of Fort James on Kunta Kinteh Island – a key site in the transatlantic slave trade.

 

The Gambia, located on the Atlantic coast, is a narrow country within the borders of Senegal, and is not much wider than the Gambia River, which shapes its geography. I took a day trip to The Gambia to visit Kunta Kinteh Island, crossing the border at Kartong.

Previously known as James Island, Kunta Kinteh Island is a small yet historically significant site located 30 kilometres upstream from the mouth of the Gambia River in The Gambia. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the island was a key site in the transatlantic slave trade. It housed a fort (Fort James) used by various European powers – Portuguese, Dutch, and British – for the capture, storage, and shipment of enslaved Africans bound for the Americas. Today, its crumbling walls and solitary prison cell stand as haunting reminders of centuries of human suffering.

Kunta Kinteh Island can be reached by boat from Juffureh.

The island was renamed in 2011 to honour Kunta Kinte, the enslaved Gambian man whose story was popularised in Alex Haley’s book Roots. Although fictionalised, the story reflects the real experiences of many Africans forcibly taken from this region. All enslaved Africans captured in The Gambia were imprisoned on Kunta Kinteh Island before being loaded onto the slave ships docked there.

Kunta Kinteh Island is not just a place – it’s a profoundly moving and reflective experience. As with Gorée Island, I felt a connection with the painful legacy of slavery and the enduring spirit of those who lived through it – something I did not expect to feel.

When planning my trip to West Africa (Benin, Togo, Ghana, The Gambia, and Senegal), I was ignorant of the extent of the slave trade in the region. What I saw, read, and heard has left a profound emotional impact that remains deeply ingrained in my memory. The resilience of people never ceases to amaze me.

I was required to show proof of my yellow fever vaccination for entry into The Gambia.

General Travel Tips for Senegal

  •  I travelled around Senegal with a private guide and driver. However, according to my guide, it is possible to get around independently without a guide and driver or on a group tour. While there are no trains in Senegal, there is a public bus system that connects towns. Taxis are not expensive, and you can bargain for the fare.
  • French is the official language of Senegal, but Wolof is the most widely spoken. English is not commonly spoken, and I was hard-pressed to get by in Senegal with my schoolgirl French. Luckily, my private guide spoke excellent English and was happy to translate whenever needed. I found using Google Translate to be an exasperating experience, especially when trying to decipher menus with my camera. I was never sure what I was ordering!
  • Due to its tropical climate, Senegal experiences a warm climate throughout the year, characterised by two distinct seasons: a dry season, which lasts roughly from November to June, and a wet season from July to October. The dry season is considered the best time to visit, as it offers warm, sunny days with lower humidity and cooler nights. It is perfect for visiting places like Saint-Louis, Gorée Island, Bandia Wildlife Reserve, and Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary. Avoid the wet season when heavy rains and high humidity can make travel unpleasant.
  • I visited Senegal in February and experienced temperatures from the mid-20s to the low 30s (degrees Celsius), depending on where I was in the country, with no rainfall. The weather plays a crucial role in your enjoyment of your trip. Knowing the long-range city weather forecasts beforehand can help you avoid disappointment. When planning my trips, my go-to resource is the World Meteorological Organisation’s (WMO) World Weather Information Services. Check my blog post for details on WMO.
  • Be prepared for things to move at a slower pace – patience is the key. Having lived in Namibia for several years, I came to know what I call “African time”!
  • The currency is the West African CFA franc. Cash is king! Many places don’t accept cards, and ATMs can be unreliable. I prepaid all my hotels before leaving Australia.
  • Senegal is predominantly a Muslim country, so dress modestly.

 

As I reflect on my time spent exploring the wonders of Senegal, I am filled with a sense of awe and gratitude for the incredible experiences I had the privilege of encountering. From the soul-stirring history etched into Gorée Island to the spiritual serenity of the Great Mosque of Touba, and from the lively atmosphere of Kayar’s fishing harbour to the tranquil, shell-laden streets of Fadiouth Island, Senegal has left an indelible mark on my heart and soul. The 11 attractions I have shared with you in this blog post offer just a glimpse into the beauty and diversity that Senegal has to offer. 

I hope this journey through Senegal has inspired you to include this remarkable country in your travel plans. Whether you are drawn to the history, culture, nature, or the warm hospitality of the Senegalese people, I can assure you that a trip to Senegal will be a truly unforgettable experience. So, pack your bags, open your heart to new adventures, and get ready to be immersed in the magic of Senegal, where every corner holds a story waiting to be discovered.

A visit to Senegal is not just a travel destination – it’s a transformative journey that will stay with you long after you have returned home.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. Unless specifically credited, all photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025.

 

Which of these Senegalese highlights sparks your wanderlust the most? Let me know in the comments below!

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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an image with two photos: one of Dakar's cityscape and the other of pelicans taking flight and landing.

An image with two photos: one of fish being sold on a beach directly from the boat and the other showing the beautiful architecture of the Great Mosque of Touba.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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Ocean-front colourful, multistoried, colonial buildings.A UNIQUE DAY TRIP: The Haunting Memory of Gorée Island. Visiting Gorée Island is more than just a day trip to a picturesque destination with vibrant colonial architecture; it’s a profound encounter with a history filled with centuries of pain, resistance, and remembrance. A must-visit spot!

 

An image with three photos of animals - a white rhino, an ostrich, and a giant eland.SAFARI BLISS IN SENEGAL: My Adventure at Bandia Wildlife Reserve. Senegal is unlikely to feature on your list when considering a safari in Africa. However, the small Bandia Wildlife Reserve, a conservation success story, offered an intimate, rewarding, and rich safari experience unlike those in the big-name parks.

 

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SAFARI BLISS IN SENEGAL: My Adventure at Bandia Wildlife Reserve

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Discover Why Bandia Wildlife Reserve Gave Me a Better Safari Experience Than Some of Africa’s Largest National Parks – All in Two Hours!   Senegal is unlikely to make your…

Discover Why Bandia Wildlife Reserve Gave Me a Better Safari Experience Than Some of Africa’s Largest National Parks – All in Two Hours!

 

Senegal is unlikely to make your list when considering a safari in Africa. Yet just an hour’s drive from the bustling capital of Dakar, you’ll discover Bandia Wildlife Reserve – home to reintroduced species such as giraffes, rhinos, zebras, and antelopes, offering visitors a chance to see African wildlife in a semi-natural environment. I was thrilled to find such a variety of wildlife in a country where I hadn’t expected to encounter such a setting until it appeared in my travel research. I was surprised in the best possible way!

 Whether you’re a nature enthusiast, a photography buff, or someone searching for a unique day trip, Bandia Wildlife Reserve provides a memorable experience combining Senegalese landscapes, history, and conservation into a single accessible adventure.

Join me as I share my unforgettable safari through Bandia Wildlife Reserve.

 

About Bandia Wildlife Reserve

Located just 65 kilometres south of Dakar, Bandia Wildlife Reserve was established in 1990 as Senegal’s first private nature reserve. Covering 3,500 hectares of fenced savannah, it’s a conservation success story that reintroduced native species long lost from the region due to poaching and habitat loss.

You can expect to see a diverse range of wildlife, including:

  • giraffes,
  • white rhinoceroses,
  • zebras,
  • antelopes (such as elands and impalas),
  • monkeys (patas and vervet),
  • warthogs,
  • crocodiles,
  • ostriches, and
  • over 120 bird species.

One of Bandia Wildlife Reserve’s unique aspects is its blend of wildlife and West African culture. Scattered throughout the reserve are reconstructed Serer burial mounds, traditional Peulh huts, and an ancient baobab tree once used as a tomb for griots (Senegal’s revered oral historians).

Bandia Wildlife Reserve’s landscape is straight out of an African nature documentary – think towering baobab trees, wide-open plains, and clusters of acacia trees that provide shade to wandering herds. Bandia’s founders have created a balanced ecosystem that’s both welcoming to wildlife and inviting for visitors.

Exploring Bandia Wildlife Reserve is typically done via guided 4WD safari tours, allowing close encounters with wildlife in their natural habitats. The reserve features a restaurant and bar overlooking a waterhole, where you can relax and observe animals like buffalo and crocodiles. There is also an excellent souvenir shop.

Are you a wildlife enthusiast, a photographer, or looking for a family-friendly adventure? Bandia Wildlife Reserve offers an unforgettable experience that feels worlds away yet is incredibly accessible.

The Safari Experience

You can tour Bandia Wildlife Reserve in your own car, by taxi, or hire an on-site open-sided safari truck (reservations aren’t necessary), seating 8-24 people. However, a 4WD is crucial during wet weather.

I was in Senegal on a private tour with a guide and driver in a 4WD vehicle. I travelled through the Bandia Wildlife Reserve in this vehicle. Whether you opt for your own vehicle, taxi, or the reserve’s safari truck, hiring one of Bandia’s specially trained guides is mandatory. These guides are skilled at spotting wildlife and knowledgeable about Bandia’s history, conservation efforts, and cultural heritage.

Driving around Bandia Wildlife Reserve, I was thrilled by how often I spotted animals and birds and the diversity of what I encountered.

I’ve been on safari in several of Africa’s larger, open-range national parks and loved the adventure they offer. However, the vastness of these landscapes can mean hours of driving without a single sighting. In contrast, my experience at Bandia Wildlife Reserve was uniquely different. Within two hours, I encountered an impressive range of wildlife – giraffes, zebras, rhinos, antelope, monkeys, ostriches, and more – with hardly a moment of stillness between sightings. While Bandia may not have the scale or remoteness of the big-name parks, there’s something to be said for a small, well-managed, enclosed reserve where animals roam freely but are easier to find. It didn’t feel staged; instead, it felt intimate and rewarding – ideal for travellers seeking a rich safari experience without the long waits or need for multiple game drives.

My wildlife safari photo gallery

A white rhino rests in the shade of a tree.

 

A large antelope with brown skin with white stripes, black neck skin, and swivel horns.

A lone giant eland (also known as the Derby eland or Lord Derby’s eland) stands proud in the African bush. It is the largest species of antelope in the world.

 

A warthog drinks from a waterhole. My Bandia Wildlife Reserve guide told me they are the only animals that can get in and out of the reserve because they burrow under the fencing.

 

A zebra wanders past boxthorn bushes.

A small bird with blue and brown feathers sit on a tree branch.

The Abyssinian roller, also known as the Senegal roller, has vivid blue body feathers and impressively long outer tail feathers. It is, without a doubt, a stunning bird.

 

A spotted hyena. The hyenas in Bandia Wildlife Reserve are kept in an enclosure because they were killing the animals.

 

Cultural and Historical Highlights

The Bandia Wildlife Reserve showcases wildlife and honours Senegal’s rich cultural heritage.

During the drive, my safari guide showed me a one-thousand-year-old sacred baobab tree used historically as a tomb for griots, the traditional West African keepers of knowledge and oral tradition. Baobab trees were considered sacred by the Serer people and regarded as a fitting place for the remains of the griots, who were revered as wise men and sages.

Deceased griots were placed in the hollow trunks of baobab trees rather than being buried in the ground to ensure their knowledge remained accessible and didn’t get lost in the earth. This practice has been outlawed since 1962 due to public health concerns. Nevertheless, the baobab trees still hold sacred significance for the local population.

The one-thousand-year-old sacred baobab tree – an ancient tomb for griots inside Bandia Wildlife Reserve (a practice now banned). There were human skulls inside the hollow of the tree. However, I suspect they were placed there for the benefit of tourists.

 

Practical Information

Opening hours

Bandia Wildlife Reserve is open daily from 8.00 am to 6.00 pm.

Ticket prices

  • Adults: 12,000 FCFA (West African CFA Franc) (approximately €18,50)
  • Children (under 12 years): 7,000 FCFA franc (approximately €10,50)
  • Vehicle entry (personal car or taxi): 7,000 FCFA (approximately €15)
  • Safari truck rental, 11-seater: 40,000 FCFA (approximately €61)
  • Safari truck rental, 24-seater: 60,000 FCFA (approximately €91)
  • Guide per vehicle (mandatory): 6,500 FCFA (approximately €10)

You can make payments in FCFA, Euros, or by credit card.

On-site facilities

Bandia Wildlife Reserve has a large on-site restaurant overlooking a waterhole teeming with Nile crocodiles. I didn’t eat there as I was having lunch at Lac Rose (Pink Lake), so I can’t comment on the quality of the food on the menu.

Two Nile crocodiles rest on the banks of the waterhole that Bandia Wildlife Reserve’s restaurant overlooks.

 

An excellent, upmarket, boutique-style souvenir shop is in the same building as the restaurant. I wanted to buy a book on Bandia Wildlife Reserve, but unfortunately, they were only in French.

Best time to visit

Senegal is situated at Africa’s westernmost point, along the Atlantic Ocean. It experiences a tropical climate with two distinct seasons: a dry season from November to June and a wet season from July to October. Temperatures remain warm to hot throughout the year, averaging about 36 degrees Celsius.

I always recommend visiting a wildlife park in Africa during the dry season because the animals are drawn to the waterholes.

For optimal wildlife viewing, visit during the cooler hours of the morning or late afternoon, as animals tend to be more active at these times than in the heat of the midday period.

How to Get to Bandia Wildlife Reserve

Bandia Wildlife Reserve is easily accessible by car from the capital, Dakar, and Saly’s resort area. Except for the last 800 metres, the roads are sealed, well-signposted, and in good condition.

From Dakar (approximately 65 kilometres):

-> Head south on the A1 motorway from Dakar.

-> After approximately 60 kilometres, take Exit 14 toward Sindia/Popeguine.

-> Continue for 2 kilometres, then turn right onto National Road N1 (Dakar-Mbour).

-> Drive 3.3 kilometres on N1, then turn left at the signpost indicating Bandia Wildlife Reserve.

-> Continue on the unsealed track for 800 metres to reach the reserve entrance.

From Saly (approximately 15 kilometres):

-> Head north from Saly on National Road N1 toward Sindia.

-> After approximately 15 kilometres, watch for the signpost to Bandia Wildlife Reserve and turn right.

-> Continue on the unsealed track for 800 metres to reach the reserve entrance.

If you’re not driving, you can organise a private transfer or book a guided tour, typically from Dakar or Saly, that includes transport, park entry, and a safari guide. You can book half-day and full-day tours to Bandia Wildlife Reserve with companies like Viator, GetYourGuide, and ToursByLocals (all of which I’ve used on other trips and found to be excellent). The full-day tours are usually combined with other attractions, such as Pink Lake.

 

My visit to Bandia Wildlife Reserve was, without a doubt, a highlight of my time in Senegal. It’s more than just a place to see animals; it’s a testament to conservation, a visual reminder of Senegal’s diverse natural beauty, and a chance to reconnect with the wild. It’s an easily manageable day trip that packs a punch, offering a genuine taste of safari life without having to venture deep into other parts of Africa.

Whether you’re a seasoned safari-goer or just seeking something different to do, Bandia Wildlife Reserve provides an accessible and remarkably rewarding experience. So, if you find yourself in Senegal, make time for this magical encounter – it left me with lasting memories, stunning photos, and a deeper appreciation for Senegal’s hidden natural treasures.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025.

 

Have you ever visited a smaller wildlife reserve like Bandia? Did it surprise you compared to the big-name safari parks? I’d love to hear about your experiences – share them in the comments below!

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

Like this post? Save it for later!

An image with two photos of animals - an ostrich and a rhino.

An image with two photos - a zebra and a baobab tree.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

Sign up to receive the latest in travel destinations, topics, resources and guides.

 

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Ocean-front colourful, multistoried, colonial buildings.A UNIQUE DAY TRIP: The Haunting Memory of Gorée Island, Senegal.  Visiting Gorée Island is more than just a day trip to a picturesque destination with vibrant colonial architecture; it’s a profound encounter with a history filled with centuries of pain, resistance, and remembrance. A must-visit spot!

 

Dakar cityscape, SenegalWHY VISIT SENEGAL, WEST AFRICA? Here are 11 Excellent Attractions. From a pink lake and a peaceful wildlife reserve to a sacred mosque and an island made of seashells, these are just some of the unforgettable reasons that made my trip to Senegal so memorable.

 

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025. All rights reserved.

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Africa Destinations Reviews Senegal Travel Tips, Info and Resources

A UNIQUE DAY TRIP: The Haunting Memory of Gorée Island, Senegal

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This Tiny Island in Senegal Tells a Story the World Must Never Forget   I spent two fabulous weeks in Senegal, West Africa, experiencing as much as possible on a…

This Tiny Island in Senegal Tells a Story the World Must Never Forget

 

I spent two fabulous weeks in Senegal, West Africa, experiencing as much as possible on a private tour with my guide, Serigne, and driver, Pap, based on an itinerary I developed in consultation with Native Eye Travel. It was a memorable trip with many highlights, including museums in Dakar, Lac Rose (Pink Lake), Fadiouth Island (built on clamshells), Bandia Wildlife Reserve, and more. However, my day trip to Gorée Island was the most poignant. 

Just a short ferry ride from Dakar, Gorée Island presents a charming exterior with its pastel facades and narrow alleys while holding a deep history of centuries of pain, resistance, and remembrance. It offers an experience that is both enchanting and emotional. 

As I walked through cells once used to imprison enslaved people on Gorée Island and stood before the Door of No Return, I reflected on the lives forever changed by the transatlantic slave trade. This post shares what I discovered on Gorée Island – what to see, how to get there, and, most importantly, why this tiny island left such a lasting impression.

 

About Gorée Island

Gorée Island lies three kilometres off the coast of Senegal, directly across from Dakar. While it is a small island – approximately 900 metres long and 350 metres wide – its historical significance far outweighs its size.

Discovered by the Portuguese in the 15th century, the island was successively ruled by the Portuguese, Dutch, English, and French from the 15th to the 19th century, using Gorée Island as a strategic trading post.

From 1536 to 1848 (when the French abolished slavery), Gorée Island was active in the transatlantic slave trade, particularly under French control. The island served as a major holding and embarkation centre for enslaved Africans who were forcibly taken from West Africa and kept in cramped, dark cells while awaiting transport across the Atlantic to the Americas.

Gorée Island functioned as both a residential and commercial centre for European traders and a place of imprisonment for captured Africans. The island witnessed unimaginable human suffering, with many enslaved people dying before even setting foot on a ship.

While Gorée Island may not have experienced the highest volume of slave departures, its preserved structures and historical exhibits offer a tangible and solemn connection to this dark chapter of human history. The island has become a pilgrimage site, especially for Africans and African Americans seeking to reconnect with their roots.

In 1978, Gorée Island was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of its historical significance in the slave trade and its well-preserved colonial architecture.

How to Get to Gorée Island

Gorée Island is accessible only by boat. The easiest and cheapest way to get there is to take the direct Gorée Ferry from Dakar’s passenger terminal. Ferries depart every two hours, daily, from 7 am to midnight. Tickets are available at the terminal and cost about 5,000 CFA (approximately USD9) for a return trip. A passport is required to purchase a ticket and to board the ferry – a copy is not accepted.

The ferry ride takes 25-30 minutes. Arrive early to grab a seat on the upper deck for scenic views of Dakar and the approach to Gorée Island.

Colourful buildings line the foreshore of a small island with a hill behind.

Approaching Gorée Island, as viewed from the ferry.

 

Things to Do and See on Gorée Island

Gorée Island offers a unique blend of historical significance and natural beauty. Visit the House of Slaves, a poignant reminder of the island’s transatlantic slave trade, and stroll through the colourful, narrow streets. Admire the colonial architecture, explore the fortifications, and soak up the charming island atmosphere.

House of Slaves (Maison des Esclaves):

The House of Slaves with a view of the Door of No Return. Enslaved Africans were imprisoned in cells on the ground floor while the upper floor was the residence of the slave trader.

 

The House of Slaves was a slave-holding warehouse and is the island’s most sombre and emotionally powerful site. Built in 1776, this pink-hued building once served as one of the 28 prisons for enslaved Africans on Gorée Island before they were forced aboard ships bound for the Americas. It is now a museum and memorial to the victims of the transatlantic slave trade on Gorée Island – to those who never returned!

Native Eye Travel arranged a private tour of the House of Slaves for me with the Head Curator, and the museum was closed for the duration of my tour.

Inside, narrow corridors led to dark, airless holding cells where men, women, and children were imprisoned separately. Some of these spaces were no larger than a closet, and the living conditions of the enslaved people were atrocious. Families were separated, and children were held away from their mothers. They spent days chained and shackled to the floor, unable to move, and only set free once a day to eat and relieve themselves. Young girls, confined separately from the other women, were particularly vulnerable to sexual exploitation.

However, the most haunting feature of the House of Slaves was the Door of No Return. This small seaside doorway marked the last point of contact for enslaved individuals with their homeland. Standing in its shadow, I felt the weight of history pressing down on me. Its symbolic and emotional significance was immense. I found myself motionless, initially unable to photograph what I saw, as I needed to acknowledge the pain that the Door of No Return symbolised.

The House of Slaves: The Door of No Return. Through this door, enslaved men, women, and children stepped from their homeland onto a waiting ship that would transport them to the Americas.

 

I truly appreciated my private tour, as having other people moving in and out of the cells and around the Door of No Return would have diminished my emotional experience. The House of Slaves was more than a museum; it was a portal to the collective trauma of a people torn from their roots and a powerful reminder of history.

The Statue of Liberation of Slaves is a powerful statue depicting a man and woman embracing as their chains are released. It is located near the House of Slaves. (Sculptors: Mrs Jean and Christian Moisa)

 

A walking tour of the island:

Beyond the House of Slaves, the island beckons for quiet exploration. Serigne led me through leafy alleyways, past colourful colonial architecture adorned with wrought-iron balconies and crumbling walls held together by bougainvillea.

We walked past open-air art galleries on our way to the highest point of Gorée Island, called the ‘castle’ even though no castle exists. However, two large cannons installed by the French during the Second World War dominate the hill.

These two French cannons were strategically positioned on Gorée Island’s highest point.

 

Lastly, Serigne took me to the Historical Museum of Senegal in Gorée, located in the former Fort d’Estrées, which the French built between 1852 and 1856. The museum presents the general history of Senegal and the more specific history of Gorée Island. Its layout follows a circular route divided into 13 rooms, covering periods from the Paleolithic Age to the slave trade and independence.

An old stone fort sits on the ocean bank of an island.

The former Fort d’Estrées, which now houses the Historical Museum.

 

Having previously visited two excellent museums in Dakar, I found the Gorée Historical Museum relatively uninteresting and neglected. Although all the information about the museum’s exhibits was written in French, this was not an issue, as Serigne was happy to translate for me, as he had done in the museums we visited in Dakar.

Gorée Island was full of contrasts – beauty, serenity, sadness, and suffering.

Where to eat:

Serigne and I lunched on the seafront at the Hostellerie du Chevalier de Boufflers. Shaded by large umbrellas, I ate lunch while looking out over the quiet harbour. My meal consisted of chicken with onion sauce and rice – a delicious traditional Senegalese dish.

A red-coloured, two story building with blue window shutters.

Lunch at Hostellerie du Chevalier de Boufflers offers uninterrupted views of Gorée Island’s harbour and serves a great traditional Senegalese chicken dish with onion sauce and rice.

 

Tips for Visiting

  • French is the official language of Senegal, but Wolof is the most widely spoken. English is not commonly spoken, and I was hard-pressed to get by in Senegal with my schoolgirl French. Luckily, Serigne spoke excellent English and was happy to translate whenever needed. I found using Google Translate to be an exasperating experience, especially when translating menus with my camera. I was never sure what I was ordering!
  • A day trip to Gorée Island is all you need. I spent five hours on the island and saw everything there was to see, except for the Museum of the Sea and the Women’s Museum.
  • Gorée Island is car-free and has cobblestone streets. It may be tiny, but you will do a lot of walking, so comfortable shoes are essential.
  • Remember, you need a valid passport to travel to Gorée Island from Dakar. You cannot purchase a ferry ticket without one.
  • The House of Slaves is open Tuesday through Sunday and closed on Mondays. Its hours are 10.30 am to 12.00 pm and 3.00 pm to 6.00 pm.
  • The Historical Museum of Senegal in Gorée is open Tuesday through Sunday and closed on Mondays. Its hours are from 10.30 am to 4.30 pm.
  • Do you truly want to understand the history of Gorée Island, rather than merely wandering the streets? I recommend arranging a guided tour from Dakar with a reputable travel agency, such as Viator or Get Your Guide (both of which I have successfully used in the past). Alternatively, you can arrive on Gorée Island and choose one of the guides who meet the ferry.

Reflecting on my Experience

Visiting Gorée Island was not just another travel experience but a journey through history and humanity. It reminded me of the importance of confronting the past, no matter how painful, and honouring those whose lives were shaped by it.

Walking through the corridors that were once filled with unimaginable suffering was a sobering experience. But there was also hope in the quiet determination to remember and never forget.

Last view of the Door of No Return (in the red building) as I leave Gorée Island on the ferry for Dakar.

 

A visit to Gorée Island is more than just a day trip; it’s a powerful encounter with history. It invites you to slow down, listen, and reflect. While the island’s beauty is undeniable, the emotional weight of its past lingers long after the ferry ride back to Dakar.

Gorée Island reminds us of humanity’s capacity for cruelty but also of its resilience and the importance of remembering. If travelling through Senegal, set aside a day for Gorée Island. It’s not just about sightseeing – it’s about bearing witness. Gorée Island doesn’t just tell a story – it asks you to carry it with you.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025.

 

Have you visited Gorée Island or another historic site that left a deep impression on you? I’d love to hear your thoughts.

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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An image with two photos - colourful buildings lining the ocean shore and a statue of a man and women embracing while showing broken chains.

An image with two photos - a stone cell with dirt floor and an alleyway with plants and flowers.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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© Just Me Travel 2018-2025. All rights reserved.

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STAY AT LUXURY ZAINA LODGE IN GHANA FOR AMAZING WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS

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Safari in Mole National Park at Zaina Lodge – Ghana’s Greatest Secret Now Expose.   Nestled within the heart of Ghana’s largest wildlife reserve, Mole National Park, Zaina Lodge offers…

Safari in Mole National Park at Zaina Lodge – Ghana’s Greatest Secret Now Expose.

 

Nestled within the heart of Ghana’s largest wildlife reserve, Mole National Park, Zaina Lodge offers a luxurious safari experience that blends comfort with adventure. This secluded retreat invites nature lovers to immerse themselves in the sights and sounds of the African wilderness. From its elevated vantage point, Zaina Lodge provides breathtaking views of the Park’s vast savannah and the chance to witness wildlife up close.

In this post, I’ll share my journey to this hidden gem, guide you through Mole National Park’s diverse wildlife, and give you a glimpse into the exceptional accommodations and experiences at Zaina Lodge. Accompanied by my own photos from this unforgettable adventure, get ready to be transported to a world of magic where nature and luxury coexist in harmony.

 

Forget the chocolate, which Ghana is famed for. Instead, go on a wildlife safari in Mole National Park (pronounced ‘mole-ah’) and stay in a luxury safari lodge.

When preparing for my West Africa trip, I came across Mole National Park and Zaina Lodge in my research. As a lover of safaris, wild animals, game drives, and luxury, I did not hesitate to add Mole National Park to my itinerary.

After a hectic small group trip through West Africa’s Togo, Benin and Ghana, I took myself to north-western Ghana for rest and recreation at Zaina Lodge in Mole National Park. The effort of getting there was so worth it, and it enabled me to re-energise before heading to Senegal for a month.

About Mole National Park Ghana

Mole National Park (pronounced ‘Moh-lay’) was established in 1958 and was the first Protected Area in Ghana. Located in northwest Ghana, it is the largest game reserve in Ghana, covering an area of 4,912 square kilometres and comprising savannah and forest habitats. The park has the widest range of wildlife in Ghana and is the only place in Ghana where you can experience elephants in the wild.

Mole National Park is rich in biodiversity and home to over 90 mammal species, including five primate species. Species of special interest include elephants, buffalo, Kob, Western Hartebeest, Roan Antelope, Defassa Waterbuck, Oribi, Bohor Reedbuck and Red-flanked Duiker. Rare and endangered species include the Yellow-backed Duiker, Black and White Colobus Monkey, leopard and lion. The park is also home to 334 bird species, 33 reptiles, nine amphibian species, and some 120 butterfly species.

Mole National Park has the most viable elephant population in Ghana (about 400) and is, as such, a hotspot for elephant conservation. It is also said that the park has a unique breed of elephants that are not hostile, aggressive, or insecure compared to other elephant populations in the rest of Africa. As such, it is one of few parks that allows visitors to approach the world’s largest land animal on foot. You can arrange for an armed ranger to join you in your own 4WD, but you are not allowed to explore Mole National Park unaccompanied.

In 2020, UNESCO included Mole National Park on its World Heritage Tentative List.

Getting to Zaina Lodge in Mole National Park

There are three ways to get to Mole National Park – plane, car, and bus.

I took the quickest option and flew from Accra, Ghan’s capital, to Tamale in the north. The flight took one hour. I had a pre-arranged transfer from Tamale Airport to Zaina Lodge – a drive of about 180 kilometres, taking approximately two and a half hours.

The two-and-a-half-hour drive from Tamale to Zaina Lodge passed quickly as there was much to see, passing through numerous towns and villages. Also, the road was the best I had experienced in Ghana.

The drive from Accra to Mole National Park by private car or through a transfer agency takes about 10-11 hours, with a driving distance of approximately 690 kilometres.

The cheapest option is to take a bus from Accra to Wa and then a taxi or minibus from Wa to Mole National Park. Depending on your connection in Wa, the journey takes about ten hours.

Zaina Lodge Ghana: Accommodation and Wildlife in Mole National Park

Lounges and umbrellas surround a blue-tiled pool in front of a thatched building.

Zaina Lodge’s pool area at the main chalet.

 

Zaina Lodge is a luxury safari lodge located within Mole National Park with 24 large, spacious tented chalets facing two man-made waterholes. The tented chalets are on the top of an escarpment, which gave me an excellent view of the animals (mainly antelope and elephants) coming to drink at the waterholes.

The tented chalets are “framed with sustainably raised plantation teak”, including the porch, and finished with thatched roofs. Inside was pure luxury with a king-sized bed, television, desk and chair, terracotta floor tiles, and courtesy dressing gowns. The air-conditioned room featured a ceiling fan, in-room safe, minibar, and free WiFi. Behind the partial dividing wall (behind the bed) was the shower room, washroom, and toilet, with locally sourced shea butter soap. I knew I would be very comfortable for the next three nights!

A tented chalet with thatched roof and veranda on a stone base.

My tented chalet at Zaina Lodge Ghana.

 

 

Zaina Lodge offers three packages: Zaina Bed and Breakfast, Zaina Half Board, and Zaina Experience. I booked the Zaina Experience because it included all meals and a daily safari drive. I booked additional safari drives as one a day would not satisfy my desire to see as much wildlife as possible. At one point, I questioned if I really needed safari drives because elephants would walk through the unfenced camp. Hence, there was a safety requirement for being escorted by a ranger to our chalets after the night meal. One particularly large male elephant was interested in the running water in front of the lodge’s main entrance.

A closeup of an African elephant.

Who needs a walking safari when you meet this gentle giant every morning on your way to breakfast?

 

Zaina Lodge offers morning and afternoon safari drives, a morning walking safari, and a canoe safari. I was keen to do a walking safari but opted against it after being told it was too cold for the animals to appear. I never expected to hear that it was too cold in the mornings because the temperatures in the area (mid-January) were 37-39 degrees Celsius! After learning I would not see hippos but mainly birds, I decided not to include a canoe safari in my itinerary. [My sister would have loved that!]

In the end, I didn’t need to book a walking safari because, on two occasions, we left the safari jeep with our armed ranger to walk up close to (within a safe distance) one elephant partially concealed by the bush and another that was having a dust bath.

A lone elephant in the African savannah throws dust over itself.

An elephant gives itself a dust bath (natural sunscreen).

 

On our exciting safari drives, we had an armed ranger who doubled as our knowledgeable guide, sharing the names of the amazing animals we encountered. I spotted various types of antelope, playful monkeys, majestic elephants, inquisitive baboons, warthog families, crocodiles, and an incredible variety of birds, including some rare endangered species.

A gallery of some of the wildlife I saw on my Zaina Lodge safari drives in Mole National Park:
A lone antelope with white markings on its brown hide stands in the bush.

Northern Bushbuck

 

An antelope with brown hide and black face stands in the bush.

Roan Antelope

 

A brown-feathered hawkstand on green tufts of grass.

Hawk

 

A blue and brown coloured small birds stands on a branch.

Abyssinian Roller

 

A baby baboon cuddles up to its mother.

A mother baboon and baby.

 

Several African elephants cross a dirt road.

Elephants cross the road in front of us.

 

A common tradition on African safari drives is stopping mid-drive for a hot drink and snacks. I’ve had morning and afternoon tea in some of Africa’s most breathtaking places! On Zaina Lodge’s safari drives, our accompanying armed ranger would scout the area for animals before the driver served coffee, hot chocolate, tea, and biscuits.

A man prepares hot drinks and snaks on the bonnet of a jeep.

Our safari driver serves morning tea.

 

The evening meal wasn’t always served in the lodge’s restaurant. One night, staff had set up the dining tables under the stars around the pool. On another occasion, dinner was a bar-b-que in a kraal (a fenced enclosure – usually made from dry, interwoven tree branches – to protect from predators).

After a month of travelling through West Africa and another month before heading home, I was ready for a massage. Thankfully, Zaina Lodge has an on-site wellness spa offering guests a host of massage therapies. I was pampered with a 30-minute foot massage and exfoliation treatment and a 45-minute back, shoulder, and head massage. I found the whole experience very relaxing.

I highly recommend Zaina Lodge. It is a beautiful setting to rest and relax while the attentive staff care for your needs (and wants!). I could go on as many game drives as I wanted, sleep in between, get a massage, or swim. In the mornings, all I could hear was bird song. It was so peaceful!

I found an email I sent to my family after leaving Mole National Park that best sums up my experience:

Zaina Lodge in Mole National Park was a fabulous experience, and I am so glad I included it in my itinerary. It was luxury accommodation with good food and attentive staff. I took four game drives, two of which included a bit of a walk as the ranger (armed) had seen elephant tracks, and we headed out of the vehicle to find them. I saw lots of elephants and other wildlife, ate too much, and felt very relaxed.

When To Go

Mole National Park has a tropical climate with a wet and dry season and warm temperatures year-round, with an average temperature of about 28 degrees Celsius.

The best time to visit Mole National Park to see wildlife is during the dry season, November to March, when animals gather around waterholes to drink. However, the dry harmattan winds can blow between December and February, bringing dusty, hazy weather.

The dry African savannah changes to lush vegetation during the rainy season, usually from April to October.

 

Zaina Lodge is more than just a place to stay – it’s an immersive safari experience that leaves a lasting impression. Whether exploring the park on a thrilling safari or relaxing in the comfort of a tented chalet, every moment is an opportunity to connect with nature. My stay at Zaina Lodge was unforgettable, filled with awe-inspiring wildlife encounters and serene moments overlooking the savannah.

If you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-path safari experience with a blend of comfort, luxury, and adventure, Zaina Lodge in Mole National Park is the perfect destination.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2024.

 

Where was your favourite wildlife safari experience?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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The image has two photos - a bed, table and chair inside a luxury tent and a closeup of an African elephant.

The image has two photos - a small, blue and brown bird stand on a tree branch and an anteleope with brown hide and white markings on its back and sides.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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Cruising Along the Chobe River Provides a Different Perspective on Wildlife Viewing Than a Traditional Land-Based Safari.   Gliding along the tranquil waters of the Chobe River, where Namibia and…

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Gliding along the tranquil waters of the Chobe River, where Namibia and Botswana meet, I embarked on a safari experience unlike any other. Onboard the Chobe Princess houseboat, I had a front-row seat to one of Africa’s most spectacular wildlife displays – without even stepping onto land. The river offered a unique vantage point for the thriving activity on the riverbank. From magnificent elephants and watchful hippos to resting crocodiles and playful baboons, my two-night Chobe River Safari left me with unforgettable memories. 

In this post, I share the highlights of my Chobe River safari, including how to reach the Chobe Princess, the best time to visit, and what makes this corner of Africa a must-see for wildlife enthusiasts. I hope this post inspires you to embark on your own Chobe River adventure.

 

About the Chobe River

The Chobe River begins in the mountains of Angola, flows through the neck of Namibia’s Caprivi Strip, forms the border between Namibia and Botswana, and then flows into the Zambezi River.

The Chobe River is the meeting point of four countries – Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia, and Zambia. Read on to learn why this created an interesting triple border crossing for me to reach my river cruise boat.

The Chobe River flows for 60 kilometres through Chobe National Park. It serves as a lifeline for a variety of animals, drawing them in for drinking, bathing, and resting. The riverfront is famous for seeing large herds of elephants and Cape Buffalo, pods of hippos, lions, crocodiles, and many bird species.

I cruised the Chobe River with the Zambezi Queen Collection on the Chobe Princess houseboat.

Getting there

Zambezi Queen Collection’s houseboats officially cruise on the Namibian side of the Chobe River. However, because they are quite remote, the easiest access to them is from Kasane in Botswana.

I travelled to the Chobe Princess from Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. I arrived in and/or left three countries in the space of one and a half hours: I left Zimbabwe, arrived in Botswana, left Botswana, and arrived in Namibia! Each border crossing required queuing for immigration, filling out forms, and paying for visas. I did wonder if I would have enough pages in my passport to accommodate all the stamps.

After crossing the border from Zimbabwe into Botswana, I was driven into Kasane to cross the border from Botswana to Namibia. Upon exiting Botswanan immigration, a Chobe Princess crew member took me by speed boat to Namibia’s border control and immigration on Impalila Island. Alighting from the speed boat, I had to walk up a hill to get to the Namibian immigration office. Luckily, I could leave my bag with the crew member in the speed boat! At one point, with the immigration building in sight, there was a sign that read, “Take a deep breath, you’re almost there”. At the gate to the immigration building’s enclosure, there was another sign, “Congratulations, you’ve made it”. I later learned that a Chobe Princess manager was responsible for the signs – to make the slog up the hill more bearable!

Having completed all my border crossings, we sped down the Chobe River for about half an hour to meet up with the Chobe Princess, which didn’t stop for me to board. But it was cruising very slowly, so I was able to transfer from the speed boat to the houseboat without mishap.

About the Chobe Princess houseboat

The Zambezi Queen Collection has a fleet of houseboats cruising the Chobe River – the luxury Zambezi Queen and three Chobe Princesses.

Two houseboats are moored to the riverbank.

Two moored Chobe Princess houseboats. I took this photo from the third Chobe Princess.

 

I cruised the Chobe River on the larger (five-cabin) Chobe Princess. My two-night package included all meals, soft drinks and water, local beers and wines, teas and coffee, and morning and afternoon river safaris (water-based game viewing).

I only took a two-night cruise instead of three nights because I had made a last-minute booking. I would have preferred a three-night cruise as I was sad to say goodbye to the Chobe River and my unique wildlife experience.

The houseboat looked tired and could have used some updating. (I understand the Chobe Princess houseboats have recently been upgraded.) My standard cabin was big enough for a king-sized bed, but that was all, and I couldn’t turn around in the bathroom. The electricity struggled and kept cutting out, which meant the cabin never really cooled down, and batteries took forever to charge. The meals were hit and miss, ranging from okay to delicious. However, none of this detracted from my wonderful cruising and game-viewing experiences, and the service was excellent.

The Chobe Princess offered an informal, relaxed, and intimate river cruise with a unique game-viewing experience. It traversed the Chobe River along the banks of Botswana’s Chobe National Park. How far you travel on the river will depend on water levels, as houseboats can get stuck if the river is too low. However, you travel further up and down the river on the Chobe Princess’ safari boat – a small open aluminium boat with an outboard motor (known as a tinnie in Australia).

My African river safari

While the Chobe Princess operates from the Namibian side of the Chobe River, I am sure we were more often in Botswana than Namibia when motoring up and down the river in the safari boat when viewing wildlife from the water!

Game viewing from the river offers a truly unique wildlife safari perspective.

What I learned and saw:

  • Elephants can’t swim. When they cross the river, they are walking on the riverbed. A baby elephant will hang onto their mother’s tail, and auntie comes behind, lifting the baby every so often for its trunk to go out of the water so it can breathe. It’s funny watching these little trunks and nothing else appear above the water. Something you won’t see on a land safari!
Only the trunks and tops of heads can be seen of these elephants crossing a river.

Elephants cross the Chobe River.

 

  • I saw a baby elephant drinking from the river with its mouth instead of its trunk. I learned that baby elephants cannot use their trunks until three months old.
Elephants stand in the river by the bank drinking from the river. A baby elephant is drinking with its mouth and not its trunk.

This baby elephant drinks with his mouth as he hasn’t learned to use his trunk.

 

  • I watched a baby elephant flapping its trunk around because it didn’t know what it was for or how to use it.
  • I saw elephants lying down with other elephants standing in a circle around them, guarding them. When I saw this for the first time, I asked my river safari guide if the elephant was lying down because it was giving birth or was sick and dying. I was assured the elephant was just resting. I later saw several elephants being guarded while lying down, so I had to believe my guide when he said they were just resting and not sick.
Several elephants stand around three elephants lying on the ground.

Elephants protect resting herd members.

 

Several elephants stand around a baby elephant lying on the ground.

Elephants stand guard over a sleeping baby.

 

  • I laughed as I watched a baby elephant make five attempts to get up a tricky part of the riverbank before succeeding.
  • I watched two juvenile male elephants playing at aggression.
  • Cape Buffalos look like a storybook Heidi, with a big bone across their foreheads and turned-up horns like pigtails.
A head and neck closeup shot of a Cape Buffalo.

A Cape Buffalo.

 

  • The hippopotamus is the most dangerous land animal in Africa, killing about 500 people per year. They are massive, fiercely territorial, aggressive, agile in and out of the water, have long sharp teeth in a huge jaw, and can run up to 30 kilometres an hour on land. So, you can understand why hippos are such a fearsome animal to encounter!
A hippo is walking on the riverbank heading for the river.

A hippo heads for the river.

 

  • Hippos don’t poop on land. They poop in the water and use their tails to fling it as far as up to ten metres away.
A hippo stands in the water pooping and flicking it around with its tail.

A hippo pooping in the water and flicking it around.

 

  • Crocodiles were resting on the riverbank, and one was sitting on her eggs.
A closeup, side-on head shot of a crocodile with its eye open and mouth closed but still showing its sharp teeth.

A crocodile rests on the riverbank.

 

  • A social group of baboons down by the river were feeding their young, eating, preening, and playing.
Four baboons of various ages sitting on the ground. One is preening another and a baby is hanging onto its mother's arm.

Baboons on the riverbank.

 

  • Waterbucks are easily distinguishable because of the ‘target’ (white ring) on their rump.
A waterbuck is grazing on a grassy plain.

A waterbuck.

 

  • Giraffes must spread their front legs to drink or eat grass. This makes them highly vulnerable to predatory animals because they can’t get up quickly.
A photo of two giraffes. One has spread its legs to eat the grass while the other is stand close by.

A giraffe spreads its legs to eat grass while another stands watch.

 

Why I recommend a Chobe River Safari on the Chobe Princess

A cruise on the Chobe River offers a unique wildlife safari experience that differs from traditional land safaris. Here are some compelling reasons why I recommend a multi-day Chobe River cruise:

  • Intimate and comfortable accommodation: The Chobe Princess is a small houseboat that accommodates a maximum of ten passengers. While my cabin was sufficient, the service was personalised, the sundeck was furnished with comfortable lounges, and the cruising was relaxed.
  • Abundant wildlife: The Chobe River is known for its dense wildlife population, especially during the dry season when animals amass along the riverbanks. You can spot elephants, hippos, crocodiles, buffalo, and various bird species. Since the river provides a natural water source, it’s a prime location to observe animals in their natural habitat, often at close range.
  • Convenient and comfortable game viewing: A river cruise offers a leisurely and comfortable way to see wildlife instead of driving around in a vehicle for hours. You can relax on the Chobe Princess’ sundeck with a drink while enjoying panoramic views as the boat drifts along the river.
  • Unique water-based perspective: Seeing animals from the water as you cruise along the Chobe River provides a different perspective on wildlife than a traditional land-based safari.
An elephant walks along the riverbank while three hippos immerse themselves in the water.

Where else would you get this wildlife perspective except on a Chobe River safari cruise?

 

  • Exclusive and peaceful: Being on the water, you escape the crowds and busy roads often found in popular safari parks. As such, you experience a quieter and more intimate encounter with nature, especially on a smaller vessel like the Chobe Princess.
  • It’s an adventure: Getting to the Chobe Princess (described earlier in this post) was an adventure I wouldn’t miss.

If you love wildlife and an unforgettable safari experience, a Chobe River cruise on the Chobe Princess is definitely worth considering.

A note on when to go

I cruised the Chobe River in early November when the dry season, described as “Lots of wildlife on the riverbanks”, had just ended. The dry season is a time when many animals gather around and stay close to the main water source, and you can watch them as you cruise by.

November is generally the start of the wet season. However, I experienced no rain and wildlife viewing along the riverbank was exceptional, especially for herds of elephants, pods of hippos, buffalo, crocodiles, and monkeys, which were drawn to the water.

 

My two-night wildlife safari cruise on the Chobe River was an unforgettable experience. The combination of the river’s natural beauty, the abundant wildlife, and the comfort of the Chobe River houseboat created a truly magical journey. If you seek a unique safari experience – one where the wildlife comes to you – this is it! 

Whether you’re a seasoned traveller or a nature enthusiast, a safari cruise on the Chobe River promises an adventure like no other – one that I can’t recommend enough. The memories made during this trip will stay with me for a lifetime.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2024.

 

Where was your favourite river cruise?

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The image has two photos: a herd of elephants coming down to the river to drink and a closeup head shot of a Cape Buffalo.

The image has two photos: elephants crossing a river with only their trunks above water and a hippo walking towards the water.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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An image with three photos of a pool surrounded with lounge chairs and umbrellas, an elephant throwing dust over itself, and morning teas served on the bonnet of a jeep.STAY AT LUXURY ZAINA LODGE IN GHANA FOR AMAZING WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS. Looking for a unique African safari experience? Zaina Lodge is a luxury safari destination in Ghana’s Mole National Park. Explore how to get there, when to visit, and what makes Zaina Lodge stand out. Get inspired for your next journey!

 

 

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Africa Destinations Photo Stories Zimbabwe

SEE THE POWERFUL VICTORIA FALLS BY LAND AND AIR – My Photo Guide (2024 Updated)

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Exploring the Majestic Victoria Falls: A Journey Through Nature’s Masterpiece.   Standing on the edge of one of the world’s most awe-inspiring natural wonders, I found myself mesmerised by the…

Exploring the Majestic Victoria Falls: A Journey Through Nature’s Masterpiece.

 

Standing on the edge of one of the world’s most awe-inspiring natural wonders, I found myself mesmerised by the sheer power and beauty of Victoria Falls. Known locally as Mosi-oa-Tunya, meaning “The Smoke That Thunders”, this iconic waterfall straddles the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia, sending a torrent of water down a 108-metre drop that creates an unforgettable mist and roar.

During my visit, I experienced Victoria Falls from two incredible perspectives: walking along the escarpment on the Zimbabwean side and soaring above the Falls in a thrilling helicopter flight. Both vantage points offered unique views of this UNESCO World Heritage Site, and I’m excited to share the photos I captured and some fascinating facts about this natural marvel.

 

Interesting facts about Victoria Falls

  • Victoria Falls is a waterfall on Africa’s Zambezi River, located on the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. The Zambezi River is the fourth longest in Africa after the Nile, Congo, and Niger rivers.
A wide blue river with several tree-covered islands.

Aerial view of the mighty Zambezi River near Victoria Falls.

 

  • David Livingston was a Scottish missionary and explorer. In 1855, he was the first European to discover the falls, which he named after Queen Victoria.
  • Victoria Falls is officially known as Mosi-oa-Tunya, meaning “The Smoke That Thunders” by the local Kalolo-Lozi people. This is an appropriate name, given that the ‘smoke’ (mist) from the Falls can be seen more than 20 kilometres away and sometimes up to 50 kilometres away.
  • Victoria Falls is the world’s greatest sheet of falling water, spanning about 1,708 metres wide and pouring 500 million litres of water (200 Olympic-sized swimming pools) every minute over the falls. The average plunge is 100 metres into the gorges below and 108 metres at the highest.
  • Victoria Falls comprises several waterfalls along its length: Devil’s Cataract, Main Falls (95 metres high), Horseshoe Falls (101 metres high), Rainbow Falls (the highest at 104 metres), and Eastern Cataract.
  • In several places along the escarpment walk, the roar from the water cascading down the sheer cliff wall is so loud it makes it difficult to hold a conversation.
  • Victoria Falls is among the most spectacular waterfalls in the world, making it a popular tourist destination. For me, it is second only to Iguazu Falls on the border of Argentina and Brazil.
  • Around two-thirds of Victoria Falls is situated on the Zimbabwean side, with more viewpoints accessible. As the Zimbabwean side is slightly lower than the Zambian side, water still flows during the dry season even when the Zambian side has completely dried up.
  • You can swim at Victoria Falls, in Devil’s Pool on the Zambian side of the Falls. Devil’s Pool is a deep natural rock pool created by thousands of years of erosion. It is literally right on the edge of Victoria Falls and accessible from Livingston Island.
  • Victoria Falls is one of the seven Natural Wonders of the World and was designated UNESCO World Heritage in 1989 for its outstanding universal value.

I witnessed the power of Victoria Falls on a walk around the escarpment on the Zimbabwean side and from a helicopter flight providing aerial views of both sides of the falls.

Visit Victoria Falls on foot

The Victoria Falls Walk is a three-kilometre round trip along the escarpment opposite the Falls on the Zimbabwean side and back through the rainforest. It offers spectacular views of all five of Victoria Falls’ waterfalls from about 15 vantage points. It is generally an easy walk, but the mist makes some areas slippery.

I opted for a guided walking tour of Victoria Falls because I wanted to learn as much as possible about this magnificent landmark and the rainforest in which it is situated. I did the morning walk, which took about two hours, and I was back at my hotel before the day’s heat became unbearable.

A waterfall drops into a pool below.

Devil’s Cataract, Victoria Falls.

 

A wide sheet of water cascades down an escarpment, creating a waterfall.

Main Falls (95 metres high), Victoria Falls.

 

Mist rises from the volume of water cascading down an escarpment in to the river below, almost hiding the waterfall.

The mist rising from Victoria Falls’ cascading water almost hides the Falls.

 

Several people swimming in a natural rock pool on the ledge of a waterfall.

People swimming in Devil’s Pool on the edge of Victoria Falls in the Zambian side.

 

The massive volume of water in this waterfall highlights the power of the waterfall.

The powerful force of Victoria Falls is seen in the amount of water thundering down the cliff into the gorge below.

 

See Victoria Falls from a helicopter

My 13-minute flight over Victoria Falls was my first experience in a helicopter. I sat in the front with the pilot. The floor in this section was glass, and I could see the ground between my feet. Taking off was a weird feeling – like going up in a high-speed lift while being able to see the ‘lift’ rising.

I loved the helicopter flight’s different perspective of Victoria Falls, but I found the Falls to be more spectacular and powerful from the ground. You be the judge!

A wide waterfall cascades down the escarpment into a gorge with the river on one side and rainforest on the other side of the gorge.

Aerial view of Victoria Falls

 

An aerial view of a waterfall cascading down into a gorge, taken from a helicopter.

View of Victoria Falls captured from a helicopter.

 

A wide river flows over an escarpment forming a waterfall. The sun shinning on the cascading water creates a rainbow.

A rainbow forms over Victoria Falls.

 

An aerial view of a waterfall cascading down an escarpment to the river below.

Aerial view of Victoria Falls and the river below.

 

A note on protecting your camera from spray

Walking along the escarpment, you and your camera will get wet from the spray spewed up by the sheer volume of water crashing down the cliff face to the floor below.

Whether or not you keep yourself dry is up to you. But it is essential to keep your camera dry if you want it to continue working.

I have a DSLR camera and have tried two different professional ‘raincoats’ for my camera. Each time, I revert to my tried and tested method of a plastic bag.

  • I attach the lens hood to the camera to provide some protection for the lens glass and filters.
  • Using a wide plastic bag that is longer than my camera body and extended lens, I make a hole in the bottom of the bag.
  • I slip the lens through the hole and secure the plastic bag to the lens with a rubber band.
  • Pulling the plastic bag up over the camera keeps it dry. I have good access to all the dials, can see through the viewfinder and the back of the camera, and have plenty of room for my hands. And the lens can still be extended and retracted!

My experience with professional camera raincoats is opposite to that of my plastic bag. They were restrictive, with poor visibility through their plastic window, and provided limited space for my hands.

I also carry a microfibre cloth to wipe the water droplets off the lens glass.

Where I stayed

While visiting Victoria Falls, I stayed at Ilala Lodge in the Zimbabwean town of Victoria Falls.

Ilala Lodge is a luxury, family-run hotel set in landscaped gardens. It is the closest hotel to the magnificent Victoria Falls, and I could clearly see the mist rising from the Falls from my room. The hotel is within easy walking distance to the town’s souvenir shops, supermarket, and other amenities.

With 73 spacious, well-appointed rooms, Ilala Lodge is a large hotel but feels and looks more like a boutique safari lodge with its thatched roofs and wildlife roaming free and eating the manicured lawns.

The meals at Ilala Lodge’s Cassia Restaurant (formerly the Palm Restaurant), which serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, were varied and delicious – a fine dining treat. I’m hooked on their iced coffees. Expect to pay Australian city prices for food and drinks.

The service throughout the hotel was excellent, with friendly, efficient, welcoming, and informative staff. The nightly jar of biscuits left by housekeeping when they turned my bed down was an appreciated treat.

I recommend staying at Ilala Lodge when visiting Victoria Falls.

 

Victoria Falls is more than just a destination – it’s a sensory experience that leaves a permanent mark. Whether standing at the edge of the escarpment, feeling the mist on your skin, or soaring above in a helicopter, marvelling at the thunderous beauty from the sky, it’s impossible not to be awestruck by the majesty of the Falls. This natural wonder invites exploration, from the raw power of the water to the surrounding landscapes. My time at Victoria Falls was nothing short of magical, and I hope these photos and insights inspire you to witness Mosi-oa-Tunya for yourself.

If you plan a trip to Southern Africa, I highly recommend adding Victoria Falls to your itinerary. It’s an experience that will stay with you for a lifetime.

 

Editor’s Note: I originally published this blog post in June 2019 and have updated it for accuracy, comprehensiveness, and relevance.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and unsponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2024. All rights reserved.

 

Where in the world is your favourite waterfall?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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an image with two photos. One is of a waterfall cascading into the gorge below. The other photo is of people swimming in a rock pool on the edge of a waterfall.

An image with two photos of the waterfall cascading into a gorge taken from the land and from the air.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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An image with three photos: the interior of a luxury tent, a leopard hanging over a branch in a tree, and reeds silhouetted against the setting sun.A WILDLIFE SAFARI ADVENTURE AT SANCTUARY STANLEY’S CAMP, OKAVANGO DELTA. Read my honest review on a safari camp in Botswana where luxury glamping meets unforgettable wildlife encounters.

 

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© Just Me Travel 2018-2022. All rights reserved.

 

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Africa Botswana Destinations Reviews

A WILDLIFE SAFARI ADVENTURE AT SANCTUARY STANLEY’S CAMP, OKAVANGO DELTA

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Luxury Glamping Meets Unforgettable Wildlife Encounters in Botswana’s Okavango Delta: My Honest Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp Review.   Nestled in the heart of Botswana’s Okavango Delta, Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp offers an…

Luxury Glamping Meets Unforgettable Wildlife Encounters in Botswana’s Okavango Delta: My Honest Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp Review.

 

Nestled in the heart of Botswana’s Okavango Delta, Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp offers an exceptional safari experience where luxury and nature blend seamlessly. Glamping takes on a new meaning at this exclusive camp with spacious, beautifully appointed tents that provide the perfect blend of comfort and adventure. My time here was filled with exhilarating wildlife encounters during unforgettable game drives, where elephants, leopards, lions, giraffes, and other animals roamed freely. What truly sets Stanley’s Camp apart, though, is the personalised hospitality that made me feel like part of the family, ensuring an unforgettable stay in the African wilderness.

Join me as I unveil the charming appeal of this wilderness sanctuary and relive moments of wonder, awe, and connection with nature.

 

Sanctuary Retreats owns and operates luxury safari lodges and camps in Kenya, Botswana, Tanzania, Uganda, Zambia, and Namibia. Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp, named after the explorer Henry Stanley, is one of two Sanctuary Retreats’ camps in Botswana’s Okavango Delta.  It is in a large private concession on the southern tip of Chiefs Island and shares a border with the Moremi Game Reserve.

Stanley’s Camp is accessible by air. A flight from Maun takes about 15 minutes, and a flight from Kasane takes about 90 minutes. The camp itself is about a 20-minute drive from Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp’s private airstrip.

I flew to Maun in Botswana from Johannesburg in South Africa – a two-hour flight. For the first time in my extensive travels, check-in at Johannesburg Airport weighed my carry-on bag. Luckily, my two bags were under 20 kilograms when weighed together – the maximum limit for my light aircraft flights to and from Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp.

From Maun, I took a Mac Air flight to Stanley’s Camp. The plane was a six-seater – seven if you account for the pilot, and he probably should be included! The flight took ten minutes, and I had fantastic aerial views of the Okavango Delta.

Three of us got off the plane at Stanley’s Camp airstrip, which was simply hard, packed earth (like baked clay) but well maintained. At the airstrip, a Stanley’s Camp staff member met us in an open-sided 4X4 game drive vehicle. Before we could drive away, we had to wait for the plane to be airborne to ensure it took off okay.

About ten minutes from the airstrip, we stopped for a welcome ‘picnic’ in the bush, which included champagne, juice, soft drinks, and nibbles. I was grateful for the cold washer, and we were each given a water bottle with our name on it, which we were allowed to keep. These bush picnics would become a regular event over the next several days.

The advised 30-minute drive to the camp took 50 minutes, as we had to keep stopping to take photos of the elephants, giraffes, and wildebeest we encountered.

Arriving at the camp, the staff welcomed us with a song of greeting, a cold washer, and more drinks. In the meantime, the female staff (housekeeping) took our bags to our tents, carrying them on their heads. For my housekeeper, that was 12 kilos on her head! We had arrived at the camp in time for high tea (4.00 pm), which we had while checking in.

Check-in was more of a safety briefing:

  • We can walk around the camp on our own during the day but never at night.
  • Our guide must always escort us to and from our tent at night. Guests are allocated a group guide for the duration of their stay.
  • We must never use the pool at night.
  • Drink lots of water.

These safety precautions are necessary because wild animals – hyenas, monkeys, elephants, etc. – regularly enter the camp area.

After our safety briefing, a staff member showed me to my accommodation. The accommodation at Stanley’s Camp is glamping at its best. For those unfamiliar with the term ‘glamping’, it is a glamorous alternative to traditional camping. Stanley’s Camp has ten tents, all with views over the floodplains. ‘Tent’ does not adequately describe the accommodation. The tent is a luxurious, spacious room with a king-sized bed, an ensuite bathroom that doesn’t lack any facilities, and a large veranda with a daybed; it just has canvas for walls and roof. There’s no air conditioning, but the room has a ceiling fan and a standard misting fan, and the canvas walls roll up to allow the breeze to flow through.

A tent is furnished with a bed, mosquito netting, chairs, and des. The tent has a chair and travel bag on the porch.

Glamping at Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp. (Courtesy of Sanctuary Retreats’ Trade Image Library)

 

My housekeeper pointed out the essential facilities in the room:

  • Insect spray (called Doom – appropriate name!),
  • personal mosquito spray (called Peaceful Sleep – I hope so!),
  • torch,
  • alarm horn (to scare intruding predators away),
  • emergency radio (walkie-talkie – hope I don’t need that!), and
  • WiFi is only available in our tents.

After settling into my tent, I met my guide for a mokoro safari through the waterways of the Okavango Delta. A mokoro is a traditional canoe that is propelled through the water by standing in the stern and pushing with a pole. While lazing in the mokoro was very relaxing, I was disappointed with this activity as I saw nothing but water lilies and reeds. I am not sure what I expected, but a few water buffalo or birds would have made the experience more interesting. I needed to remind myself that wildlife sightings are, to a great extent, unpredictable. However, on the drive to the mokoros, we came across a leopard sitting under a tree and spent some time taking photos before he left the shade of the tree, checking us out as he left the area.

A leopard walks in the long grass as he faces the camera.

A leopard checks us out as he walks past our safari vehicle.

 

After the mokoro safari, drinks and nibbles were served in the bush by Stanley’s Camp staff before returning to camp.

Two men prepare tables of food beside a waterhole with trees behind them.

Stanley’s Camp staff set up our mokoro safari ‘picnic’.

 

Back at camp, there were more drinks and the essential cold washer before being escorted to my tent to get ready for dinner.

Later that evening, my guide escorted me to the central tent for dinner. The food was excellent, as too was the coffee. During dinner, staff informed us that the plan for the following morning would be a wake-up call at 5.15 am, breakfast at 6.00 am, and leave for a game drive at 6.30 am. I questioned how staff managed a wake-up call given there was no phone in our tents – thinking the call might come via the emergency radio. One of the other guests informed me that a ‘wake-up call’ meant tea or coffee brought to your tent by staff. Now that’s civilised!

At dinner, I was given a handmade reed bracelet with my name woven into it. Such a nice gesture!

In addition to having all our meals in the central tent, it proved to be an idyllic place to socialise with the other camp guests.

A tent is furnished with couches, chairs, a dining table and chairs, and a bar.

Stanley’s Camp central tent. (Courtesy of Sanctuary Retreats’ Trade Image Library)

 

I was sorely tested during my first night’s sleep, as I am sure I slept with every insect known to man. I sprayed myself in Peaceful Sleep and sprayed the bed in Doom, but it made no difference! And it was hot! I learned to encase my bed in the mosquito netting BEFORE leaving for the afternoon game drive.

On the morning of my first game drive, I was not only woken by my coffee wake-up call but also by several small monkeys making a racket in the trees outside my tent.

My Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp four-night package included accommodation, all meals, and game drives (morning and afternoon). I had come for the game drives, especially to see elephants and hippos, and I wasn’t disappointed. The excellent accommodation, delicious meals, and attentive staff hospitality were an added bonus – the icing on the cake!

On that first morning’s game drive, we saw so much wildlife. In the first hour, there were warthogs, buffalo, zebras, giraffes, impalas (easily distinguished from other antelope because of the black stripes on their rear end), and one lone bull elephant. There was no more wildlife for the next three-quarters of an hour, and I thought that was it. Then we came across a couple of saddle-billed storks, soon followed by a group of elephants. More wildlife quickly followed: different types of antelopes, four or five herds of elephants, a large flock of stocks fishing in a pool of water (different to those seen earlier), baboons, more warthogs, lots more buffalo, and cross it off my bucket list, a pod of hippos in a waterhole. The zebras had several foals in the herd, while the elephant herds had elephants of differing sizes (ages).

An image with four photos of African wildlife - a herd of elephants, hippos in the water with just their eyes visible, a herd of zebras, and impalas with their backs to the camera.

Wildlife seen on the morning game drive – elephants, hippos, zebras, and impala.

 

An image with two photos: three giraffes of differing sizes and a red-billed black and white stork.

Wildlife seen on the morning game drive – a giraffe family and a saddle-billed stork.

 

At 9.30 am, we stopped in a clearing in the bush for coffee/tea and muffins. There’s that picnic again! Always welcome after such an early breakfast.

Usually, a game drive lasts three hours, but this one lasted five hours as we had to take a couple of guests to the airstrip for their flight out of Stanley’s Camp. The plane had to abort its first attempt at landing because there were impalas on the airstrip. Once again, we waited for the plane to take off before continuing our game drive.

As I lay on my bed resting between lunch and high tea, I watched monkeys darting around outside my tent and heard antelope (at least I hoped it was antelope) munching on the grass on the other side of my canvas wall.

We spent most of the afternoon game drive looking for lions. Lion tracks could be seen, but there were no lions or any other wildlife, for that matter. However, after two hours of nothing, we came across impalas and giraffes, several warthogs (nature’s ugliest animal?), a lone wildebeest, kudus with their distinctive white stripes down their backs and pink colouring inside large ears, and a large herd of elephants (the largest I have seen so far).

An image of four photos: a baby elephant peeking out between two adult elephants, a warthog, an elephant up close, and a kudu.

Wildlife seen on our afternoon game drive – a baby elephant peeking out between two adult elephants, a warthog, an elephant up close, and a kudu.

 

As the sun lowered in the sky, a hippo suddenly emerged from the bushes and ran across in front of the vehicle. They can run very fast – no wonder hippos are Africa’s most dangerous animal, with the most human deaths attributed to them. When we rounded the corner of a clump of trees, there was a lagoon with many hippos in it. I was thrilled. Hippos and elephants were what I had come to Botswana for. We stopped by the lagoon for our game-drive coffee and snacks, which I barely had time to consume because I was taking so many photos of the hippos in the lagoon.

Several hippos are looking towards the camera while submerged in the water. One hippo has his mouth wide open.

A pod of hippos – seen on a game drive in the late afternoon.

 

Four hippos have just their heads above water while one of the hippos has his mouth wide open, exposing his teeth and jaw.

A male hippo shows his domination by displaying his teeth and jaw.

 

What I learned today:

  • The darker the patches on a giraffe, the older the giraffe. The giraffes seen this afternoon were very old according to the colour of their patches.
  • The patches on a giraffe are like human fingerprints – the patch patterns are unique to each giraffe, just like the stripes on zebras.
  • Wildebeests are herd animals; seeing one by itself means it is old and has been kicked out by the herd.

Back at camp, I bought a beautifully carved wooden hippo at the camp’s shop to celebrate seeing hippos in the wild. The staff wrapped it tighter than a sausage, binding it in sticky tape to protect it from damage. Customs in Australia will have a hard time opening it to check the wood.

We had dinner tonight under the stars, around the campfire. The sky is unhindered at Stanley’s Camp, and the night sky is a mass of stars.

My second morning’s game drive started with a wake-up call at 5.15 am and leaving camp at 6.00 am before breakfast. The early start was because we were driving to Moremi Game Reserve for our game drive. Since we missed breakfast, the staff had packed extra food for our mid-game drive picnic. So, instead of morning tea, we had brunch.

The game drive through Moremi Game Reserve was uneventful. However, we did see a couple of honey badgers, which is rare.

This day, lunch was not back at camp but was set up in the veld by staff who had brought everything from the kitchen. It was a lovely setting, with zebras roaming in the distance, and a unique experience.

I spent the afternoon reading on my veranda’s daybed while watching two elephants getting closer and closer to my tent.

I must admit that after a couple of days of breakfasts, lunches, dinners, game drive picnics, and high teas, I started skipping meals. We were fed so often at Stanley’s Camp that I just wasn’t hungry by the evening meal.

On my final game drive, I saw elephants, kudus, and heaps of impalas. But the highlight was photographing a leopard chilling out in the branches of a tree.

A leopard hangs over a tree branch with his feet and tail dangling down.

A leopard relaxes in a tree as he surveys his territory.

 

Why I recommend Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp

  1. The accommodation at Stanley’s Camp is glamping at its best. The ‘rooms’ are comfortable and beautifully fitted out, and they are an ideal place to relax and wind down after a game drive when you want time to yourself.
  1. Stanley’s Camp feels intimate, with only ten tents (‘rooms’).
  1. Your tent is situated on the edge of a vast, open plain (veld), offering an uninhibited view of wildlife roaming across it.
  1. The attention provided by the staff was individual and personalised. Having the same guide throughout my stay ensured my needs were met, even when they didn’t have to be! When I opted to forego an afternoon game drive for a rest, my guide arranged for high tea to be brought to my tent. I believe he went above and beyond – meeting my wants rather than my needs. I could not fault the staff and management.
  1. The game drive vehicles at Stanley’s Camp were open-sided, making spotting wildlife much easier. As Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp is on a private concession, we could get up close to animals (always when safe to do so).
  1. Staff care about your welfare. When I got sunburnt (pack the sunscreen!), a staff member phoned its sister camp in the Okavango Delta for sunscreen for me. Unfortunately, there was none to be had! We were travelling on dirt roads on game drives and could be tossed about in the vehicle. When going over particularly rough sections, our guide would turn around and ask if we were all still in the vehicle.
  1. Wherever I travel, I will always seek out high tea venues. When I booked Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp, I was unaware that high tea was included. That it was served every afternoon was a delightful bonus.

Ask yourself, why would you not stay at Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp? From a seasoned traveller and someone who lived in Namibia for several years, I highly recommend a wildlife safari holiday at Stanley’s Camp.

A note on when to go

I travelled to the Okavango Delta in early November. In hindsight, it was not the ideal time to go, as it was very hot and humid due to the late start of the wet season. There was no escaping the heat, something I usually thrive on. My guide told me the temperature over the three full days of my stay had been 38, 41, and 43 degrees Celsius, respectively, with the humidity at 88%. What rain I did see (on my final evening) lasted five minutes and didn’t even wet the ground.

While the timing of seasons can be unpredictable, perhaps it is best to take your African safari in Botswana at the beginning of the wet season rather than at the end!

See here for the best time to visit the Okavango Delta. My trip to Botswana had been a last-minute decision due to an unforeseen need to change travel plans, and I did not consider the weather!

 

My stay at Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp in Botswana’s Okavango Delta was nothing short of extraordinary. From the luxurious comfort of glamping under the African sky to the thrill of witnessing wildlife in its natural habitat, every moment felt magical. The attentive and warm hospitality from the staff only enhanced my experience, making it feel both intimate and unforgettable. Whether you’re a seasoned safari-goer or a first-timer, Stanley’s Camp offers a perfect blend of adventure and relaxation. It’s a place where nature and luxury harmonise, leaving you with memories that will last a lifetime.

I highly recommend Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp as your destination of choice.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. Unless specifically stated, all photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2024. All rights reserved.

 

Where was your favourite African safari?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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This is an image with two photos: the furnished interior of a luxury tent showing a bed, chair, and desk and a leopard hanging from the branch of a tree.

This image has two photos: a large tent furnished with couches, dining tables and chairs, and a bar and a giraffe family (mum, dad, and baby).

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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Africa Ethiopia Postcards to Home

SIMIEN MOUNTAINS ETHIOPIA: When “Plastic Card” Means Warmth (Not what you think!) (2024 Updated)

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Lost in Translation! Discover How a ‘Plastic Card’ Becomes a Hot Water Bottle in Ethiopia’s Simien Mountains     Dear Pip, Having travelled as much as I have, I should…

Lost in Translation! Discover How a ‘Plastic Card’ Becomes a Hot Water Bottle in Ethiopia’s Simien Mountains

 

The sun set behind the mountain with several round huts used for accommodation.

Simien Lodge – sunset over the Simien Mountains

 

Dear Pip,

Having travelled as much as I have, I should no longer be surprised by how easily things can get lost in translation. But on this occasion, my physical comfort, or more precisely, my physical discomfort, enabled me to create my own meaning to communication.

I have arrived at the Simien Lodge in the Simien Mountains National Park. The Lodge is on an escarpment, and the mountain landscape is stunning. However, it was cold, and I needed to find my jacket from the bottom of my bag. This was the first time I needed my jacket since arriving in Ethiopia. It could have something to do with the Simien Lodge being 3,260 metres above sea level – the highest lodge in Africa.

The rooms in the Simien Lodge are spacious, with a good-sized bathroom, including a shower that I was actually able to turn around in (an issue in Ethiopian hotels). But the room was cold, and after a thorough search, I couldn’t find any means of heating it.

Due to arriving at the Simien Lodge after a very long drive (getting anywhere in Ethiopia involves a long drive), I decided a nap was in order. I would worry about the heating when I went down for dinner. Given the altitude and my hut being on top of a hill, I wasn’t going to walk up and down unless I absolutely had to.

Grabbing the blankets and quilts from the spare bed onto mine, I climbed into bed, thinking that at least I would be warm while I slept. How wrong could I be! I was still cold, even with an extra layer of clothes and my jacket. Needless to say, I went down for dinner as soon as the restaurant opened.

My first stop was at reception, where I asked how to heat my room. I was advised that the staff would provide me with “a plastic card for the bed” after dinner. I assumed this would be like a hotel room key card that you slot into a device to activate the room lights; I would slot this card somewhere in the room that I hadn’t yet located, and it would activate an electric blanket. An electric blanket would be most suitable. That it would be an electric blanket I hadn’t seen yet did not register. I should have known – don’t ever assume! The ‘plastic card for the bed’ was a hot water bottle. That I was disheartened by this method of heating my room was an understatement. How was I going to be warm? However, the hot water bottle worked a treat. I was snug in bed all night and had a great night’s sleep. That the room itself was cold mattered not one bit.

Tomorrow, I leave for Gondar, where, I am assured, it will be warmer.

Love,

Joanna

A view of a mountain range with green, brown, blue, and pink colours.

Simien Mountains National Park

 

Editor’s Note: I originally published this blog post in April 2019 and have updated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2024. All rights reserved.

 

Please share your ‘lost in translation’ experience in the comments below. I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments.

 

Like this post? Save it for later!

A round stone hut with a straw thatched roof set in the mountains.

Several round accommodation huts set in a dip in the hill.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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