Masterpieces in Mosaic: A Visit to the Bardo Museum in Tunis If you want to understand just how rich and diverse Tunisia’s history is, a visit to the Bardo…
Masterpieces in Mosaic: A Visit to the Bardo Museum in Tunis
If you want to understand just how rich and diverse Tunisia’s history is, a visit to the Bardo National Museum in Tunis is a must. Housed in a magnificent former palace, the museum takes visitors on a journey through thousands of years of Tunisian history, from prehistoric times through the Punic, Roman, and Byzantine periods to Tunisia’s Islamic heritage.
For me, the Bardo was much more than a traditional archaeological museum. It brought together many of the historical stories I encountered while visiting Tunisia’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It offered a fascinating opportunity to see some of the country’s most important archaeological treasures under one roof.
And then there were the mosaics! And there were plenty of them! But the museum’s extraordinary collection of Roman mosaics particularly captured my attention.
The Bardo National Museum houses the world’s largest collection of Roman mosaics, depicting mythological scenes, marine life, hunting, agriculture, and daily life, all crafted by skilled artisans. I was struck by the variety of subjects and the level of detail achieved with tiny pieces of stone and glass. As I walked through the museum, the sheer number and scale of the mosaics impressed me most. Many are enormous, while others are smaller yet incredibly intricate, each telling a story.
In particular, three mosaics captured my imagination:
Triumph of Neptune
Ulysses and the Sirens
Dionysus Punishing the Pirates
These are the three I want to share with you.
The Triumph of Neptune
One of the Bardo’s most impressive mosaics is the enormous Triumph of Neptune, often titled The Triumph of Neptune and the Four Seasons. It’s hard to miss, as it dominates the museum’s entrance hall and is one of the best-preserved ancient mosaics in the world. It’s a wonderful introduction to what’s to come.
Originally from Sousse, the mosaic dates to the late 2nd century CE and depicts a muscular Neptune, the Roman god of the sea, with a halo around his head and riding a chariot drawn by four hippocamps – mythical creatures with horse-like upper bodies and fish tails. Two partially submerged sea gods escort and guide Neptune’s chariot: a Triton (half-man, half-fish) and a Nereid (sea nymph). In the corners of the mosaic are female figures representing the four seasons, along with agricultural scenes and decorative flora.
The massive Triumph of Neptune mosaic is the first major masterpiece seen upon entering the Bardo National Museum in Tunis.
The mosaic is enormous, measuring about 135 square metres. Once embedded as a floor mosaic in a wealthy Roman seaside villa or private baths, it is now displayed vertically at the Bardo National Museum so visitors can see the entire composition at once.
Imagine walking across something this elaborate nearly 2,000 years ago!
The photograph above doesn’t do justice to the mosaic’s true size. You can only appreciate its scale by standing in front of it.
The mosaic’s details are easier to see in a close-up photograph than when viewing it as a whole.
Ulysses and the Sirens
Another particularly memorable mosaic was Ulysses and the Sirens. It stood out because I immediately recognised it as the famous episode from Homer’s epic poem The Odyssey, in which Ulysses (Odysseus) and his crew go to great lengths to avoid the Sirens’ lethal songs. According to the story, Ulysses knows that the Sirens’ beautiful singing will tempt sailors to their death. He therefore has his crew plug their ears with beeswax while he has himself tied to the ship’s mast so he can listen to the Sirens without being lured by them, while his crew rows past them safely.
The famous mosaic Ulysses and the Sirens is found in the Bardo’s appropriately named Ulysses Room.
Ulysses and the Sirens is a 3rd-century floor mosaic discovered at Dougga. It is significant as one of the few ancient illustrations of Ulysses’ perilous sea journeys. Having visited Dougga myself, I found that connection especially exciting. I’d walked among the ruins of the ancient city and seen the remains of the buildings where people once lived. Here at the Bardo, I saw one of the remarkable artworks discovered at Dougga. It added another dimension to my visit to the archaeological site.
This mosaic is much more than a decorative floor. Its details, including the individual figures and the story being told, drew me in for quite some time.
Panther-Dionysus and the Pirates
The third mosaic that really caught my attention tells another dramatic story. This time, the central figure is Dionysus, the Greek god of wine, ecstasy, and the wild, known to the Romans as Bacchus. The story comes from the myth of the Tyrrhenian pirates, who captured Dionysus to sell him into slavery, not realising they had taken a god. When the crew discovered who their captive really was, they wanted to release him. But too late! A panther materialised on board, sending the pirates overboard. As they dived into the water, they were turned into dolphins.
The wonderful Panther-Dionysus and the Pirates mosaic is displayed in the Dougga Room of the Bardo National Museum. With so much detail, the longer you linger, the more you notice.
This mosaic is full of action. But now that you know the story, there’s no way you can’t see it. As you look closely, you can see the story unfolding across the mosaic – the panther, the pirates, the dolphins, and the other figures surrounding Dionysus.
Why the Mosaics Impressed Me
What struck me most about the mosaics at the Bardo National Museum wasn’t just their age, but how they tell stories that connect us to the past and inspire curiosity and admiration.
The Triumph of Ulysses is spectacular because of its enormous size and extraordinary detail.
Ulysses and the Sirens appealed to me because I could recognise a story that has survived thousands of years, and because of its connection to Dougga, a place I had visited during my time in Tunisia.
The Panther-Dionysus and the Pirates mosaic impressed me for its detailed, lively depiction of a dramatic myth.
Each mosaic showcases incredible craftsmanship, demonstrating the skill of ancient artisans and the importance of storytelling in their art, inspiring respect for their talent.
More Than Just Mosaics
Although the mosaics were the main reason I enjoyed my visit to the Bardo National Museum, they are only part of what the museum contains. The collections span a remarkable range of Tunisian history, from the Punic and Roman periods to later Islamic heritage.
Housed in a former palace, the museum offers stunning architecture and decorative details that create an inspiring atmosphere for exploring Tunisia’s history.
The Bardo National Museum is housed in a grand, multi-era palace that seamlessly blends medieval Hafsid foundations with opulent Ottoman and Andalusian architectural details, including intricate stucco ceilings and sweeping arched courtyards.
For me, however, the mosaics are what have stayed with me since I left. Perhaps it’s because they provided a strong link between places I had already visited and the history I discovered in the museum.
I had seen Carthage and Dougga. I stood among the ancient ruins and imagined what these places must once have been like. At the Bardo, I could see some of the artistry that once formed part of those ancient homes and communities.
Should you visit the Bardo National Museum? Absolutely! It is one of Africa’s largest museums and holds the finest collection of intact ancient Roman mosaics in the world.
I went to the Bardo expecting to see impressive Roman mosaics, and I wasn’t disappointed. The Triumph of Neptune, Ulysses and the Sirens, and Panther-Dionysus and the Pirates stood out to me, but they are just a small sample of the renowned collection housed here.
For anyone interested in ancient history, archaeology, or art, the Bardo deserves a place on your Tunis itinerary.
And if, like me, you have already visited some of Tunisia’s archaeological sites, the museum offers a bonus. Seeing these mosaics in the museum can help you see those ancient sites in a completely different light. For me, that made my visit to the Bardo National Museum even more memorable.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
Which of the three mosaics featured in my post – the Triumph of Neptune, Ulysses and the Sirens, or Dionysus and the Pirates – would you most like to see in person? I would love to hear your thoughts in the comments.
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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
22 Photos To Inspire You To Visit Tunisia’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites Tunisia is a country where history seems to be everywhere you look. Ancient Roman ruins rise from…
22 Photos To Inspire You To Visit Tunisia’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites
Tunisia is a country where history seems to be everywhere you look. Ancient Roman ruins rise from the countryside, historic medinas reveal centuries of Islamic heritage, and archaeological sites tell the story of civilisations that flourished here thousands of years ago. During my travels in Tunisia, I visited six of the country’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, each offering a very different glimpse into the fascinating past.
My UNESCO journey began in the Medina of Tunis, a maze of narrow streets, souks, mosques, and historic buildings in the heart of Tunisia’s capital. From there, I travelled to the ancient ruins of Dougga/Thugga, one of the most impressive archaeological sites I visited in Tunisia, before exploring the extraordinary Archaeological Site of Carthage, where Phoenician and Roman history come together.
I then visited the beautiful Village of Sidi Bou Said, famous for its whitewashed buildings, brilliant blue doors and windows, and its spectacular Mediterranean setting. Another change of scene came at the magnificent Amphitheatre of El Jem, one of the great surviving monuments of Roman North Africa. My UNESCO journey ended in Kairouan, one of the oldest and most important Arab-Muslim cities in northwest Africa.
What struck me most was the sheer diversity of these six sites. They aren’t merely six ancient monuments to tick off a list. Together, they reveal the many layers of Tunisia’s history, from ancient civilisations and Roman rule to the development of Arab-Muslim culture and the distinctive architecture and traditions that remain evident today.
In this guide, I’ll take you through the six UNESCO World Heritage Sites I visited, in the order I experienced them.
Tunisia’s 6 UNESCO World Heritage Sites at a Glance
Tunisia’s UNESCO heritage is remarkably diverse. The six World Heritage Sites I visited range from a historic medina and an ancient Roman city to the remains of Carthage, a spectacular Roman amphitheatre, and the newly inscribed Village of Sidi Bou Said.
Table of UNESCO World Heritage Sites I visited in Tunisia (created in Canva).
Map of UNESCO World Heritage Sites I visited in Tunisia (created in Google My Maps). The pin for Carthage is behind the Sidi Bou Said pin because they are in the same area.
These six sites offer very different experiences, which is part of what makes exploring Tunisia’s UNESCO heritage so rewarding. The Medina of Tunis and Kairouan reveal the country’s Arab-Muslim heritage, while Dougga, Carthage, and El Jem take you much further back into the ancient past. Sidi Bou Said, meanwhile, offers a distinct experience, combining unique architecture, cultural heritage, and a beautiful Mediterranean setting.
The six sites are also spread across different parts of Tunisia, making them ideal highlights to include in a wider journey through the country.
Tunis cityscape. The medina is on the far right of the photo.
The Medina of Tunis was the first of Tunisia’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites I visited, and it provided a fascinating introduction to the country’s rich history and culture. It was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1979.
From the 12th to the 16th centuries, Tunis (the capital of Tunisia) was one of the greatest and wealthiest cities in the Islamic world. The Medina of Tunis is the historic old town and walled city centre of Tunis, covering approximately three square kilometres. Today, the medina’s remarkable past is reflected in some 700 monuments, including palaces, mosques, mausoleums, madrasas (schools), and fountains.
For me, the best thing about visiting the Medina of Tunis was wandering through the maze of narrow streets and alleyways, where it is easy to lose your sense of direction, but that was very much part of the magical experience.
No visit to the medina would be complete without exploring its souks, of which there are more than 20. My wanderings primarily took me through the Great Souk, where I thrived on the atmospheric, organised chaos of streets grouped by trades. I discovered shops selling everything from spices and perfumes to leather, textiles, and traditional crafts.
The traditional Tunisian warrior doll I bought in Tunis’s medina.
Even if you’re not planning to buy anything, the souks are worth exploring for the atmosphere alone. The combination of narrow passageways, shopfronts, and the constant bustle of everyday life makes walking through them an experience in itself. This is where I found much of the charm of this wonderful UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Medina of Tunis was a fascinating place to begin my exploration of Tunisia’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It introduced me to the country’s Arab-Muslim heritage, which has evolved over many centuries, and provided a striking contrast to the ancient Roman and Phoenician sites I would visit later in my journey.
I liked that the medina felt lively, layered, and not particularly sophisticated. There was something rewarding about wandering without knowing exactly where I was going. It was not just about its UNESCO status. It was about the feeling of walking through a place that has carried over a thousand years of history while still being very much part of the present.
For anyone visiting Tunis, allowing time to wander the medina is essential.
Dougga/Thugga
Explore Tunisia’s best-preserved ancient city.
The second UNESCO World Heritage Site I visited in Tunisia was Dougga, also known by its ancient name, Thugga. Set on a hillside in northern Tunisia’s countryside, Dougga was the archaeological site that impressed me most during my travels through the country. The site covers about three square kilometres.
Unlike some ancient sites where the remains are concentrated around one or two major monuments, Dougga is an entire city waiting to be explored. Walking through what is described as the best-preserved Roman city in North Africa, I enjoyed the freedom to follow ancient streets and discover temples, public buildings, baths, and houses, all set against a backdrop of fertile plains and olive groves.
Dougga has 17 centuries of history, with its origins dating back well before the Roman period. It was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1997 in recognition of the ancient city’s exceptional state of preservation and the way its monuments illustrate the interaction of Numidian, Punic, Hellenistic, and Roman influences.
The Capitol, a majestic 2nd-century Roman temple, is undoubtedly one of Dougga’s most impressive monuments. Dedicated to the gods Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva, it stands prominently above the ancient city and is remarkably well-preserved. Its 10-metre-high walls, standing almost as they did on the day it was inaugurated, its portico supported by six imposing columns, and its grand scale make it one of the first buildings to catch your attention as you explore the site. For me, the Capitol was one of the visual highlights of the site and one of those places where I kept stopping to take photographs from different angles.
The Capitol viewed through the arch of what may be a house or temple.
Dougga’s Capitol is a Roman temple dedicated to the gods Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva.
Another of Dougga’s outstanding structures is its Roman theatre, dating back to 168 CE. Built into the hillside, the theatre takes advantage of the natural slope and offers wonderful views across the surrounding countryside. Standing among the ancient seats, it was easy to imagine the theatre in use nearly two thousand years ago. I was delighted to learn that it is still used today for music and drama performances at the annual International Festival of Dougga in summer, with a seating capacity of 3,500 spectators.
Dougga’s theatre could seat 3,500 spectators and is still used for performances today.
Beyond the Capitol and theatre, Dougga is filled with buildings that reward a slower exploration. There are temples dedicated to different deities, public buildings, baths, cisterns, and the remains of private homes.
The remains of Dougga’s houses lie below the solid walls of the Licinian Baths.
The Temple of Caelestis, set against a backdrop of olive trees, is dedicated to the Roman goddess Juno Caelestis.
Dougga’s Licinian Baths, with much of its original 3rd-century walls still intact, are among the best-preserved and most significant thermal structures in Roman Africa.
The Lybico-Punic Mausoleum dates to the 3rd century BCE, predating the Roman era.
Of all the archaeological sites I visited in Tunisia, Dougga was the place where I found it easiest to imagine what life might once have been like. I didn’t need to follow a rigid route from one famous monument to another; I could explore Dougga as if I were walking through the remains of a real city. The sweeping views across the Tunisian countryside also enhanced the experience, making Dougga feel very different from the urban settings of Carthage and El Jem.
For me, Dougga was more than another collection of Roman ruins. It was one of the most atmospheric archaeological sites I visited in Tunisia – grand yet peaceful – and a fascinating introduction to the country’s ancient past. If you are interested in history or archaeology, or enjoy wandering through ancient ruins, Dougga is a UNESCO World Heritage Site not to be missed.
Archaeological Site of Carthage
Discover an ancient Mediterranean power.
The third UNESCO World Heritage Site I visited in Tunisia was the Archaeological Site of Carthage, inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1979.
Few ancient cities have captured the imagination quite like Carthage. Founded by the Phoenicians in the 9th century BCE, it grew into one of the Mediterranean’s great trading powers before becoming Rome’s powerful rival during the Punic Wars. Eventually, Rome destroyed Carthage in 146 BCE. But that was not the end of the city. A new Roman Carthage was built on the ruins of the old one, and the site continued to play an important role for centuries to come. Today, the archaeological remains reveal layers of history.
Visiting the Archaeological Site of Carthage was quite different from exploring Dougga. Rather than walking through the remains of a clearly defined, well-preserved ancient city, visitors to the site walk through a large area overlooking the Mediterranean, with ancient remains scattered among modern neighbourhoods. Unlike Dougga, where the buildings remain largely intact, Carthage requires a lot of imagination.
Having studied ancient history, I was familiar with Carthage’s history and its dominance as a maritime power in the western Mediterranean for nearly six centuries. However, I found I could not picture the great city that once stood here.
The highlight of my visit to Carthage was exploring the Antonine Baths. These 2nd-century baths were once the largest in Africa. Although only parts of the original complex survive, the ruins convey the grandeur the baths must once have had. Massive stone blocks, columns, and foundations hint at the elaborate structure that once stood here, while the site’s location beside the Mediterranean adds to its appeal.
The impressive ruins of the Antonine Baths in Carthage, overlooking the Mediterranean.
Village of Sidi Bou Said
Tunisia’s newest UNESCO World Heritage Site.
After exploring the ancient ruins of Carthage, my next UNESCO World Heritage Site in Tunisia was very different. Perched on a hill overlooking the Gulf of Tunis in the Mediterranean, the Village of Sidi Bou Said was the most visually striking place I visited in Tunisia. From the moment I arrived, it felt as though I had stepped into a postcard. The brilliant white buildings, vibrant blue doors, shutters, and balconies, and the dazzling Mediterranean backdrop combined to create one of the most picturesque settings I encountered during my travels.
Sidi Bou Said became Tunisia’s newest UNESCO World Heritage Site in July 2026. Its inscription recognises far more than the village’s beautiful white-and-blue appearance, which has made it one of Tunisia’s best-known destinations. The village developed around the sanctuary of the Sufi saint Sidi Bou Said, whose spiritual influence helped shape the landscape. Its distinctive architecture and relationship with the surrounding landscape have created the unique character visitors experience today. [UNESCO World Heritage Centre, https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1769]
What I enjoyed most was simply wandering through the village’s narrow streets and laneways. Around every corner was another perfect scene: bougainvillea adorning whitewashed walls, beautifully decorated doorways, and glimpses of the sea between buildings. It was impossible to resist stopping every few minutes to take another photograph.
Sidi Bou Said’s architecture is characterised by blue doors, windows, and balconies.
Bougainvilleas adorn many of the buildings in Sidi Bou Said.
Sidi Bou Said offers commanding views of the Mediterranean.
A local woman passes in front of a massive blue wooden door.
Sidi Bou Said was unlike any other UNESCO World Heritage Site I visited in Tunisia. While the Medina of Tunis immersed me in the bustle of a historic Arab-Muslim city, and Dougga and Carthage revealed Tunisia’s ancient past, Sidi Bou Said offered something entirely different. I found a beautifully preserved village where cultural heritage, spirituality, architecture, and the Mediterranean landscape converged.
Sidi Bou Said has a distinctive character and charm that is hard to describe but easy to appreciate when you are there. It felt peaceful, welcoming, and timeless, making it a pleasant change of pace from some of Tunisia’s larger cities and archaeological sites. It was not simply another UNESCO World Heritage Site but a place to wander without a plan, enjoy the atmosphere, and appreciate some of the most beautiful scenery I saw anywhere in Tunisia.
Amphitheatre of El Jem
Standing in the shadow of Roman Africa.
The fifth UNESCO World Heritage Site I visited in Tunisia was the magnificent Amphitheatre of El Jem, inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1997, and it couldn’t have been more different from Sidi Bou Said. Rising unexpectedly above the modern town of El Jem, this enormous Roman amphitheatre was impossible to miss. I had seen photographs before arriving, but nothing prepared me for the scale of the structure when it first came into view. It was hard to believe that this extraordinary structure had stood for almost 1,800 years.
Built around 238 CE, the Amphitheatre of El Jem is the world’s third-largest Roman amphitheatre and the largest and best-preserved Roman colosseum in Africa. The games held there could be watched by up to 35,000 spectators.
Even before stepping inside, the Amphitheatre of El Jem makes a powerful impression. Its exterior is an imposing series of arches rising over three levels, giving the building a grandeur that immediately brings Rome’s famous Colosseum to mind.
The exterior of the Roman amphitheatre at El Jem, as seen from the street. The massive structure towers over the central area of the market town of El Jem, illustrating the grandeur and extent of Imperial Rome.
Walking inside the Amphitheatre of El Jem was just as impressive as seeing it from the outside, where the interior reveals the complex structure that once supported thousands of spectators. Much of the amphitheatre’s internal structure has survived remarkably well. The supporting infrastructure for the seating, the arena, the podium wall, and the underground passages remain largely intact. The more I took in, the easier it was to understand how this enormous Roman amphitheatre once functioned.
I particularly enjoyed exploring the amphitheatre’s different levels rather than simply viewing it from one level. Climbing into the upper seating areas and looking down into the vast central space emphasised the building’s enormity, making me feel very small. It was one of those places where photographs struggle to convey the true sense of scale.
The amphitheatre’s three levels are particularly evident from inside the arena. From this viewpoint, it is easy to see the largely intact supporting structure.
Of all the Roman sites I visited in Tunisia, the Amphitheatre of El Jem was the most breathtaking. Dougga allowed me to walk through the remains of an entire city, while Carthage’s history was scattered across a modern landscape. In El Jem, one monumental building dominates the experience.
The amphitheatre’s remarkable state of preservation, enormous scale, and the freedom to explore both upper levels and underground passages make it a memorable UNESCO World Heritage Site in Tunisia. If you are travelling through Tunisia, the Amphitheatre of El Jem is a must-see. Whether you have a particular interest in Roman history or enjoy exploring remarkable historic sites, the amphitheatre’s scale and accessibility make it an experience you’re unlikely to forget.
Kairouan
Exploring one of North Africa’s great holy cities.
The final UNESCO World Heritage Site I visited in Tunisia was Kairouan, one of the oldest and most important Arab-Muslim cities in North Africa. After exploring Tunisia’s ancient Roman cities, a monumental amphitheatre, and a picture-postcard Mediterranean village, Kairouan offered another perspective on the country’s extremely diverse heritage.
Founded in 670 CE, Kairouan flourished under the Aghlabid dynasty in the 9th century. Despite the transfer of the political capital to Tunis in the 12th century, Kairouan remained North Africa’s principal holy city. The entire historic town of Kairouan and its Medina were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1988. The World Heritage property includes the medina and its suburbs, the Great Mosque, the Zaouia of Sidi Sahib, and the Aghlabid Basins, all of which contribute to the city’s outstanding cultural and religious heritage.
My introduction to Kairouan came through a visit to the Aghlabid Basins. Built between 860 and 862 CE, the two massive, connected cisterns are impressive and were part of an advanced system that supplied water to the city. When completed, the cisterns formed part of an extensive hydrotechnical system comprising 15 water reservoirs, which is considered one of the most important hydraulic masterpieces of the Arab world. They demonstrate that Kairouan’s remarkable heritage extends beyond its mosques and religious monuments.
Aghlabid Basins’ main cistern, Kairouan.
The Aghlabid Basins are no longer used for their original water storage purpose but now serve as a historic tourist landmark.
The Great Mosque is undoubtedly one of Kairouan’s most significant landmarks and a fine example of Islamic architecture. Also known as the Mosque of Uqba, it was originally built in 670 CE but was largely rebuilt in the 9th century after being destroyed. The mosque has high, honey-coloured brick walls, giving it a fortress-like appearance. Its distinctive three-tiered square minaret, standing about 32 metres, is considered one of the oldest standing minarets in the world. Together with the vast marble courtyard and prayer hall supported by numerous reused marble and porphyry columns, it makes it an extraordinary place to visit.
Kairouan’s Great Mosque, taken from the Courtyard, with a view towards the Prayer Hall.
The Great Mosque’s Prayer Hall. The hall has 17 aisles, separated by rows of columns.
The Great Mosque is one of the oldest and largest places of prayer in the Islamic world and the fourth most important pilgrimage destination after Mecca, Medina, and Jerusalem.
For me, the Great Mosque was one of the highlights of my visit to Kairouan. Standing in the vast courtyard and looking towards the imposing, 35-metre-high minaret, it was easy to appreciate why this mosque has played such an important role in North Africa’s architectural and religious history.
However, the Great Mosque is not the only significant religious monument in Kairouan. The city is home to numerous mosques, zaouias, and other religious buildings that reflect its long history as one of the principal holy cities of North Africa. Among them are the Mosque of the Three Doors, dating from the 9th century and renowned for its sculpted façade, and the Zaouia of Sidi Sahab – all of which form part of the UNESCO World Heritage property.
The Zaouia of Sidi Sahab is a lavishly tiled 17th-century religious complex that includes a working mosque, Quranic school, and a sacred mausoleum. The decorations are beautiful, featuring blue and multicoloured ceramic tiles, fine stucco work carved to look like lace or embroidery, and detailed geometric mosaics.
The walls of the Zaouia of Sidi Sahab are adorned with brilliant multicoloured tiles and delicate stucco work.
The beautiful ceramic tiles and intricate stucco work adorn Zaouia of Sidi Sahab’s portico.
Zaouia of Sidi Sahab – The mosque’s minaret, dating to 1690, dominates the vast courtyard.
The mausoleum, covered by a dome, is the burial place of Abu Zama el-Balaoui (Sidi Sahib), said to be a companion of the Prophet Muhammad and his barber; hence the zaouia is also known as the Mosque of the Barber. According to legend, Sidi Sahib always carried three hairs of the Prophet’s beard and is said to be buried with them.
Non-Muslim visitors may enter the open-air courtyards, but only Muslims may enter the prayer hall, and the tomb chamber is closed to the public.
Kairouan was an appropriate final stop on my journey through six of Tunisia’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites. My travels had taken me through the bustling streets of the Medina of Tunis, the ancient ruins of Dougga and Carthage, the white-and-blue streets of Sidi Bou Said, and the enormous Roman Amphitheatre of El Jem. Each site revealed a different chapter of Tunisia’s history. But Kairouan brought the journey back to Tunisia’s Arab-Muslim heritage. Here, the Great Mosque, historic medina, and other religious monuments reveal the importance of a city that played a central role in the development and spread of Arab-Muslim civilisation across North Africa.
If you are interested in history, architecture, or Islamic heritage, Kairouan is a destination that deserves a place on any Tunisian itinerary. Its importance may not be as immediately obvious as the towering arches of the Amphitheatre of El Jem or the ruins of Dougga, but take the time to explore its historic streets and landmarks, and its remarkable significance soon becomes clear.
Which of Tunisia’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites Did I Like Best?
Choosing my favourite UNESCO World Heritage Site in Tunisia wasn’t easy. In fact, I couldn’t choose just one. Two sites share my number one spot: Dougga and the Village of Sidi Bou Said. They couldn’t have been more different, yet both gave me a sense of peace I didn’t feel at the other four sites I visited.
I loved Dougga because it is such a remarkably well-preserved ancient city. As I wandered through the ruins, I could actually ‘see’ the city spread out before me in all its former glory. The ruins had meaning, not just scattered stones or the remains of a few isolated buildings. I could recognise the temples, the forum, the theatre, the houses, the baths, and other parts of the city. Walking through Dougga, I could imagine how the city once looked and how its people may have lived. For me, the ability to connect the ruins to the life of a once-thriving city made Dougga particularly special.
Then there was the Village of Sidi Bou Said – about as different from Dougga as you could get.
Sidi Bou Said was picture-perfect. I loved the architecture and the stark contrast between the brilliant whitewashed walls and the vivid blue doors, windows, and balconies. Add red, pink, and purple bougainvillea climbing the walls and draping the balconies, all set against the beautiful blue backdrop of the Mediterranean, and it was impossible not to be mesmerised by the village’s setting.
But Sidi Bou Sais wasn’t just beautiful to look at. I loved wandering along its cobblestone streets, turning into hidden lanes, and discovering art galleries and cafes along the way. There was no need to rush. I could wander, look, and enjoy being there.
Although Dougga and Sidi Bou Said offered completely different experiences, both left me with the same sense of awe and peace. At Dougga, it came from wandering through the ruins of an ancient city in the Tunisian countryside. At Sidi Bou Said, it came from strolling along charming streets, discovering hidden corners, and taking in the view across the Mediterranean. I couldn’t choose between them, so Dougga and the Village of Sidi Bou Said share my number one spot among the UNESCO World Heritage Sites I liked best in Tunisia.
Out of interest, my personal ranking for Tunisia’s six UNESCO World Heritage Sites I visited would be:
Equal Number 1 – Dougga and the Village of Sidi Bou Said
Number 3 – Kairouan
Number 4 – Amphitheatre of El Jem
Number 5 – Medina of Tunis
Number 6 – Archaeological Site of Carthage
Of course, this is entirely my opinion, based on my own visits to these six UNESCO World Heritage Sites. My order has nothing to do with the historical importance of these sites or their value as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Visiting Tunisia’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites gave me a wonderful insight into how much history and culture is packed into this relatively small country. From wandering through the atmospheric Medina of Tunis and exploring the remarkably well-preserved city of Dougga to discovering the layers of history at the Archaeological Site of Carthage, each site told a different story. Then there was the picture-postcard Village of Sidi Bou Said, the magnificent Roman Amphitheatre of El Jem, and the holy city of Kairouan. What I enjoyed most was the variety. These weren’t six versions of the same experience. Each site offered something distinct, whether ancient ruins, Roman architecture, Islamic heritage, traditional architecture, or simply the atmosphere of a historic place.
Of course, I had my favourites. Dougga and the Village of Sidi Bou Said shared the top spot for me, though for completely different reasons. Dougga captured my imagination with its remarkably well-preserved ancient city. At the same time, Sidi Bou Said won me over with its beautiful blue-and-white architecture, vibrant bougainvillea, and picturesque Mediterranean setting. Both also gave me that wonderful sense of harmony I hadn’t felt at the other four sites.
The beauty of travelling through Tunisia is that you don’t have to choose between ancient history, fascinating architecture, cultural heritage, and stunning landscapes. You can experience them all on the same journey.
If you’re planning a trip to Tunisia, don’t just come for the sunshine and beaches. Give yourself time to explore its ancient cities, walk its historic streets, and discover the places that reveal the many cultures and civilisations that have shaped this incredible country. And my final piece of advice: make room in your itinerary for Dougga and Sidi Bou Said.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
Ancient Churches Carved from Rock, Dramatic Highland Landscapes and Centuries of Living History. This Photo-Rich Travel Guide Captures Northern Ethiopia Through My Lens – One of Africa’s Most Captivating Regions….
Ancient Churches Carved from Rock, Dramatic Highland Landscapes and Centuries of Living History. This Photo-Rich Travel Guide Captures Northern Ethiopia Through My Lens – One of Africa’s Most Captivating Regions.
This photo travel guide traces my journey through Northern Ethiopia, including the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela and Tigray, the castles of Gondar, Lake Tana, the ruins of Axum, and the Simien Mountains, capturing moments of history, culture, and landscape through the lens. Each image reflects a region shaped by time, belief, and place – one of the world’s oldest and most compelling travel experiences.
Ethiopia, officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia, is a landlocked country in the Horn of Africa, bordered by six countries. It is a spiritually and historically rich country known for its ancient civilisations, strong cultural identity, and dramatic landscapes. Often called the cradle of humankind, it is home to important archaeological discoveries and has preserved its traditions, making it one of the few African nations never formally colonised.
Ethiopia is known for its welcoming people, distinctive cuisine, ancient monasteries, and for being the birthplace of coffee.
Northern Ethiopia captures the essence of the country’s ancient soul. As the heartland of Ethiopia’s earliest civilisations, the north is where history, faith, and dramatic landscapes come together most powerfully. Often described as the cradle of Ethiopian civilisation, this region is home to some of Africa’s most important archaeological, religious, and cultural sites – many of which are UNESCO World Heritage-listed.
My two weeks exploring Northern Ethiopia were a journey through one of Africa’s most extraordinary and least understood regions. While tourists flock to East Africa’s savannahs or Egypt’s pyramids, Ethiopia’s historical heartland remains quietly magnificent, with rock-hewn churches carved into mountain cliffs, ancient obelisks marking the ruins of mighty empires, and castles that seem transplanted from medieval Europe to the African highlands.
Northern Ethiopia is where human civilisation gave birth to Lucy, our 3.2-million-year-old ancestor. It’s where one of the world’s oldest Christian traditions has thrived uninterrupted for nearly 2,000 years, developing its own distinctive expression through art, architecture, and ritual. It’s where landscapes shift from the jagged peaks of the Simien Mountains to the vast expanse of Lake Tana, from the thundering Blue Nile Falls to the quiet pride of ancient Axum.
This was no easy journey, as reaching some of Tigray’s cliff churches required scrambling up rock faces, and the roads between destinations tested both stomachs and suspension systems. But it was precisely this remoteness, this sense of stepping off the well-worn tourist trail, that made every moment feel like a discovery. This is the story of that journey, from the rock-hewn wonders of Lalibela to the bustling streets of Addis Ababa, through a land where history isn’t preserved behind museum glass but lives and breathes in daily practice.
The Destinations: A Journey Through the North
Lalibela: Ethiopia’s Sacred City Carved from Rock
Lalibela is situated high in the Lasta Mountains at an elevation of 2,600 metres, surrounded by picturesque valleys.
Lalibela is enclosed by the towering Lasta Mountains range, the third-highest range in Ethiopia.
Famous for its incredible 11 monolithic churches, carved downward into solid volcanic rock in the 12th and 13th centuries by King Lalibela, with roofs at ground level, Lalibela is unlike anywhere else in the world.
A complex system of narrow tunnels and passageways connects the churches. It was like a rabbit warren, creating a sense of mystical adventure as I moved from one church to another. At times, I felt like I was playing Indiana Jones as I traversed passageways that spanned sheer drops.
Each church has its own resident monk, and shoes must be removed before entering. In the end, I stopped tying my shoelaces.
Biete Medhane Alem (House of the Saviour of the World), in Lalibela’s northern cluster of churches, is the largest monolithic church in the world.
Biete Maryam (House of Mary) is thought to be the oldest of Lalibela’s 11 monolithic churches, dating back around 800 years.
The Star of David fresco on a stone wall inside Biete Maryam.
Biete Gabriel Raphael (House of Gabriel and Raphael) in Lalibela’s southern cluster of churches.
The interior of Biete Methane Alem.
A narrow tunnel between churches.
Biete Amanuel (House of Emmanuel).
Biete Abba Libanos (House of Abbot and Libanos) with the resident monk.
King Lalibela “built” the churches to create a “New Jerusalem” for Christian pilgrims after Muslim leader Saladin captured Jerusalem, making access to the Holy Land difficult, and to rival Axum, home to the Ark of the Covenant. It is said that the king built the churches with roofs at ground level to hide them from his enemies.
Set apart from the rest of Lalibela’s churches, the iconic Biete Giyorgis (Church of Saint George), named after Ethiopia’s patron saint, is the most famous of Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches. Carved from a single block of volcanic rock in the shape of a Greek cross, to a depth of over 12 metres, this subterranean church is accessible via tunnels.
Biete Giyorgis (St George’s Church) has become an icon of Ethiopia.
Biete Giyorgis represents the spiritual heart of Ethiopia.
There are two versions of Biete Giyorgis’ history: one says it was built by King Lalibela’s widow after his death (about 1220). The other claim is that King Lalibela promised to build a church to Saint George, who was upset that there was no church dedicated to him.
Lalibela is not just a historical site but a living testament to Ethiopian faith, where worship has continued as it has for centuries, not staged for visitors. It is a vital pilgrimage centre for the Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church and home to more than 1,000 priests.
Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches are often called the Eighth Wonder of the World for their unique architecture and are also a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The journey north from Lalibela to Tigray brings a striking change in landscape. From Lalibela’s rugged Ethiopian Highlands, with volcanic hills and deep valleys, to Tigray’s more dramatic landscape, characterised by towering sandstone ridges, cliffs, and plateaus, interspersed with farming communities.
The Gheralta Mountain range in Ethiopia’s Tigray region is home to some of the country’s oldest churches.
The Rock-Hewn Churches of Tigray: Sacred Sanctuaries in the Sky
The most iconic feature of Tigray’s Gheralta Mountains is the ancient rock-hewn churches carved by monks centuries ago directly into cliff faces, often requiring challenging climbs to reach but creating unique architectural marvels.
Tigray has 120 rock-hewn churches, dating from the 4th to the 6th century and still in use today. Unlike Lalibela’s churches, Tigray’s are carved directly into the cliff walls of the Amba Mountains – flat-topped mountains with almost vertical sides – or perched atop sheer-sided plateaus, making them difficult to access.
The Tigray churches are semi-monolithic. That is, they are partially excavated from a rock face or cliff and also feature constructed elements, such as masoned walls, or carved from caves.
Abreha We Atsbeha Church, which was relatively easy to reach, is widely regarded by experts as the finest church in Tigray. It was larger than any I saw in Lalibela, and its medieval frescoes depicting biblical scenes are remarkably well preserved.
Abreha We Atsbeha Church, viewed from the base of the hill.
A graveyard beside the rock-hewn wall of Abreha We Atsbeha Church.
The wall paintings in Abreha We Atsbeha Church can be pretty gruesome.
Well-preserved murals inside the ancient rock-hewn Abreha We Atsbeha Church.
The second Tigray church I visited was Wukro Chirkos Church, which was also easily accessible. It is a semi-monolithic cruciform-shaped church that has been in continuous use for over 1,600 years.
Wukro Chirkos Church is a historic rock-hewn church, dating back to the 4th century.
Wukro Chirkos Church’s murals of saints were blackened by fire centuries ago.
There was one more church on the itinerary to visit, but there was no way I was going to climb to churches that demanded hugging rock faces!
The drive from Tigray’s sky-high churches to Axum, Ethiopia’s ancient capital, was a journey through spectacular scenery at every turn.
I never tired of seeing and photographing northern Ethiopia’s ever-changing landscape.
Axum: Birthplace of Ancient Civilisation
Axum is where Ethiopian civilisation began and is one of Ethiopia’s most important historical sites. It was the powerful capital of the ancient Axumite Kingdom, which, between the 1st and 8th centuries CE, rivalled Rome and Persia as a significant trading empire.
Today, Axum is home to extraordinary archaeological treasures and sacred sites, including the stelae field, the palace ruins associated with the Queen of Sheba, and the Church of St. Mary of Zion, which is believed to house the Ark of the Covenant.
Axum’s most recognisable landmarks are its towering granite stelae in the Northern Stelae Field. These ancient obelisks, carved from a single piece of stone and some over 20 metres tall, mark the tombs of kings and nobles. The engraved stelae mark the graves of the kings of the Axumite dynasty, while the unengraved stelae mark the graves of nobles.
Not all stelae have stood the test of time. The collapse of one king’s stela enabled exploration of the tomb’s interior, a labyrinth of tunnels and rooms.
The Northern Stelae Field, Axum – the graveyard markers of Axumite kings and nobles.
Also located in the Northern Stelae Field is the Edna Iyesus Church (Church of St Jesus), an ancient, historically significant church known for its stunning, vibrant religious murals.
Among the most notable paintings are those depicting Mary and Child, saints and apostles, and St George slaying the dragon.
The stories and characters of the Bible come alive on the walls of Edna Iyesus through its vivid frescos.
Axum’s most sacred site is the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion, which, according to Ethiopian Orthodox tradition, houses the original Ark of the Covenant in the Chapel of the Tablet next to the church. According to legend, the Ark was smuggled from Israel to Ethiopia by Menelik I, the son of Solomon and the Queen of Sheba – a belief rooted in Ethiopia’s national psyche but regarded by historians as a powerful national myth.
No one is allowed to see the Ark of the Covenant except a single, virgin monk appointed to guard it, who never leaves the Chapel grounds and only appoints his successor before his death.
External view of the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion.
The interior of the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion is decorated with religious iconography.
The Chapel of the Tablet, which Ethiopians believe contains the sacred Ark of the Covenant.
Nearby is the Bath of the Queen of Sheba – a massive, ancient water reservoir carved from solid rock, with stone steps leading down to it, where she reportedly bathed. Despite the legend linking it to the Queen of Sheba and Ethiopian tradition that she originated from Axum, it was not a personal bathing pool but a vital water source for the city. Today, it’s a significant religious purification site, especially during Timkat (Epiphany).
The Queen of Sheba’s Bath, Axum.
In the western part of Axum are the ruins of the Palace of the Queen of Sheba, known locally as Dungur. The archaeological site comprises 50 rooms, a throne room with steps, a kitchen with a brick oven, and a drainage system. Although archaeologists debate whether it was truly the Queen of Sheba’s palace or a nobleman’s mansion from the same era, the Dungur site is the most widely recognised archaeological location associated with her palace.
The ruins of the Queen of Sheba’s Palace on the western outskirts of Axum.
The Simien Mountains: The Roof of Africa
It was a long drive from Axum to the Simien Mountains. The 264 kilometres took seven hours, with a stop for a picnic lunch on the side of the road, shared with cows, and the obligatory coffee stop.
Have I mentioned that Ethiopia has the best coffee in the world? Ethiopia is the birthplace of coffee, where brewing and drinking it are world-renowned rituals steeped in tradition and social significance. I was in coffee heaven, and whenever I could, I took part in the coffee ceremony.
But back to the long drive, which kept revealing the most spectacular scenery as we wound our way up through the Simien Mountains National Park – a UNESCO World Heritage Site of jagged peaks, massive escarpments and deep valleys. Sometimes called the ‘Roof of Africa’, it is home to Ethiopia’s highest peak, which rises to 4550 metres (14,930 feet). It doesn’t take much imagination to feel as if you are standing on top of the world.
Gallery – The breathtaking Simien Mountains:
Simien Lodge at sunset. Simien Lodge, in the Simien Mountains National Park at an altitude of 3,260 metres, claims to be the highest lodge in Africa.
I stayed two nights at Simien Lodge. Read my post about its unique heating system.
After many days of long-distance driving, it was a welcome relief to stretch my legs with walks in the national park.
Gondar: The Camelot of Africa
I never expected to see royal castles in Ethiopia. But Gondar has six castles in its Royal Enclosure (Fasil Ghebbi), which served as the royal residence for Ethiopia’s rulers from the 1640s to 1864 and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
A 900-metre wall encloses the Royal Enclosure’s seven hectares and contains churches, palaces, monasteries, and even a lion’s cage. The best-preserved is King Fasilidas’ castle, a three-storey fortress with battlements and towers, known locally as the Egg Castle for its egg-shaped roof.
King Fasilidas’ Castle in Gondar’s Royal Enclosure resembles a European Medieval fortress.
The Royal Archive (left) and the Royal Library (right) within the Royal Enclosure.
The Palace of Empress Mentewab – one of the most powerful women in Ethiopian history.
As I wandered through these medieval ruins in the Royal Enclosure, it was easy to see why Gondar is known as the ‘Camelot of Africa’.
Nearby, the stunning Debre Berhan Selassie Church (Trinity and Mountain of Light Church) is the most famous place of worship in Gondar. Built in the 17th century, the church is renowned for its remarkable murals that cover the interior walls and ceiling. The walls depict biblical events, including the lives of Christ, Mary, saints, and martyrs, while the ceiling is covered with 135 painted faces of winged cherubic angels peering down at visitors. For reasons I never understood, none of the angels in any of the churches I visited had bodies; they had only faces and wings.
The resident monk outside the Debre Berhan Selassie Church, Gondar.
Debre Berhan Selassie Church’s incredible frescos and all those angles looking down on me.
On the outskirts of Gondar is King Fasilidas’ Bath – a large rectangular pool with a three-storey pavilion within it, surrounded by stone walls through which the roots of ancient trees grow. The pool was empty when I visited, but it is filled once a year for Timkat (Epiphany) celebrations, when hundreds of pilgrims jump in to re-enact Christ’s baptism.
King Fasilidas’ Bath, Gondar.
Stopping for the mandatory coffee on the way to Bahir Dar, I couldn’t resist capturing the local street scene.
Locals are going about their daily business.
Bahir Dar and Lake Tana: The Source of Life
Bahir Dar is a palm-lined, Mediterranean-style city on the shores of Lake Tana, Ethiopia’s largest lake and the source of the Blue Nile.
The beautiful setting of Desset Restaurant on the shores of Lake Tana, Bahir Dar.
The city is the gateway to Lake Tana’s island monasteries. The lake comprises 37 islands, around 27 of which have monasteries and churches and are accessible only by water.
Boating across Lake Tana, I was thrilled to see hippos and fascinated by the traditional tankwa reed boats used by locals to navigate the lake. These boats looked very sinkable!
A local paddles a traditional tank reed boat on Lake Tana.
Azuwa Maryam Monastery is one of the more accessible monasteries on Lake Tana, just a short boat ride from Bahir Dar across the lake. Its round church has a thatched roof and is famous for its stunning, occasionally gruesome, vividly coloured interior wall paintings depicting biblical stories and saints in the traditional Ethiopian style. Some paintings are applied directly to the walls, while others are painted on cloth and glued to the walls. I was advised by the priest who acted as a guide that the paintings are retouched every 300 years.
The remarkable wall paintings inside Azuwa Maryam Monastery on Lake Tana, Bahir Dar.
Motoring past other island monasteries on Lake Tana, access to many is forbidden because, according to the boat driver, “women are a temptation”.
Blue Nile Falls: Ethiopia’s Impressive Waterfall
About 30 kilometres from Bahir Dar’s peaceful lakeside lies a place where the tranquillity of Lake Tana gives way to the power of Blue Nile Falls, locally known as Tis Issat, or “the water that smokes” – one of Ethiopia’s most dramatic natural sights.
The mighty Blue Nile Falls.
Read my post on Blue Nile Falls to learn about my visit to this breathtaking waterfall, why locals call it Tis Issat, and to see more photos that will inspire you to add these falls to your Ethiopian bucket list.
Addis Ababa: Ethiopia’s Dynamic Capital
Addis Ababa is located in the foothills of the Entoto Mountains, at an elevation of 2,400 metres, making it the third-highest capital city in the world.
I had begun my journey around northern Ethiopia in Addis Ababa, but didn’t have the chance to explore the city until my return at the end of my trip. Even then, I had only a day and a night to see what the city had to offer.
My visit to Holy Trinity Cathedral included a tour of the massive tombs of Emperor Haile Selassie and his wife, Empress Menen Asfaw. Haile Selassie was the last Emperor of Ethiopia, ruling from 1030 to 1974. Unusually, walking through the cathedral’s gardens meant dodging numerous tortoises roaming free.
The tombs of Emperor Haile Selassie and his wife
My highlight of Addis Ababa was the three hours I spent at the Ethnological Museum. This delightful, well-organised museum, located within Addis Ababa University, is dedicated to preserving, studying, and presenting Ethiopia’s rich cultural heritage. Exhibits cover the lifecycles, cultures, and artifacts of Ethiopia’s 80 ethnic groups, including musical instruments, clothing, tools, jewellery, religious manuscripts, ceremonial items, paintings, and much more.
Travelling through Northern Ethiopia is not just a journey across landscapes but a passage through time and tradition. From the mystical rock-hewn churches of Lalibela and Tigray, where faith is carved into stone and lived each day, to the ancient stelae and legends of Axum, the region’s history is as tangible as its dramatic scenery. The castles of Gondar, the breathtaking heights of the Simien Mountains, and the tranquil waters of Lake Tana each tell their own stories – of empires, spirituality, and the enduring resilience of the Ethiopian people.
What makes Northern Ethiopia truly unforgettable is the way history, culture, and daily life are inseparable. Here, the past is not locked away in museums but is part of the present, seen in rituals of worship, vibrant art, and the warmth of local hospitality. The challenges of travel – rugged roads, steep climbs, and, at times, a limited tourism infrastructure – are far outweighed by the rewards: moments of awe, connection, and discovery that linger long after the journey ends, and the best coffee in the world.
Whether you’re drawn by the call of adventure, the allure of ancient mysteries, or the simple pleasure of sharing coffee with new friends, Northern Ethiopia offers an experience as enriching as it is unique. May this photo travel guide inspire you to explore, ask questions, and embrace the wonders that await in this extraordinary corner of Africa.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
Exploring One of Africa’s Hidden Gems: Blue Nile Falls (Tis Issat) in Ethiopia Dear Family, Hello from Tis Issat (Blue Nile Falls) in Ethiopia. As you know, I…
Exploring One of Africa’s Hidden Gems: Blue Nile Falls (Tis Issat) in Ethiopia
The Blue Nile River cascades over the escarpment on its way to meet the White Nile River.
Blue Nile Falls (known locally as Tis Issat) drops 45 metres in a cloud of smoking water to a pool below.
Dear Family,
Hello from Tis Issat (Blue Nile Falls) in Ethiopia.
As you know, I love waterfalls, and Blue Nile Falls did not disappoint. They are known locally as Tis Issat, meaning “the water that smokes”. It’s an apt name – when the Blue Nile River is in full flow, the falls send thick clouds of spray high into the air like wisps of smoke, leaving you feeling quite damp.
Located about 30 kilometres downstream from Lake Tana, the source of the Nile, Blue Nile Falls are the second largest waterfalls in Africa, after Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. Regardless of its ranking, as the river plunges over a basalt cliff that is 400 metres wide and 45 metres deep, what I saw was a breathtaking display of power and beauty.
Leaving Bahir Dar, where I was staying on Lake Tana, my guide and two other women drove to the small town of Tis Abay (meaning “the smoking Nile” and the name most travellers know the falls by) for our walk to Blue Nile Falls (Tis Issat).
You might see the Blue Nile Falls called Tis Issat or Tis Abay, so I’ll explain the difference the way my local guide did.
The waterfall itself is called Tis Issat, “the water that smokes”, named for the mist that rises in drifting white clouds.
The nearby town where every visit to the falls begins is Tis Abay. “Abay” is the Amharic word for the Blue Nile, so Tis Abay roughly means “the smoking Nile”, linking the town to the river that feeds the waterfall.
People understandably confuse the two names, but locals don’t – Tis Issat is the waterfall, and Tis Abay is the place you start your walk to it.
From Tis Abay, we crossed the Blue Nile in a small local boat, gliding over a calm, narrower stretch of the river. Once on the far bank, the rest of the journey was on foot, an easy 1.5-kilometre walk following the river on a dirt track and accompanied by several small children trying to sell us souvenirs.
As we rounded the escarpment and the waterfall came into view, I was awestruck, my heart racing with excitement at the spectacular sight. The Blue Nile River thundered down the cliff face into a natural pool with unstoppable force, sending up clouds of spray before dropping again into the gorge below.
Our guide told us we were lucky to see the Blue Nile Falls actually flowing, especially given its volume, because a hydroelectric dam was built between Lake Tana and Blue Nile Falls, and the waterfall is only ‘switched on’ on certain days of the week. We were there on a Saturday, and according to our guide, the waterfall is not ‘switched off’ on weekends.
There was a thatched, wooden coffee house within sight of the falls, and we had to stop before heading back to Tis Abay to take part in Ethiopia’s ritual coffee ceremony, practised throughout the country.
As much as I love my coffee, I knew I was delaying the inevitable – leaving Tis Issat. The sound of the water and the quiet of the landscape made me want to linger longer. Blue Nile Falls is not just a sight to see, but one of those places you never forget.
Till the next adventure,
Joanna
The coffee house at Blue Nile Falls, where we participated in a traditional coffee ceremony before heading back to Tis Abay.
The top of Blue Nile Falls, seen from the coffee house.
The Blue Nile Falls is a majestic backdrop for my guide and fellow traveller.
The second tier of Tis Issat (Blue Nile Falls) cascades into the gorge below.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
My Senegal Highlights: The Best Things to Do in This Vibrant Country. Welcome to the vibrant and captivating country of Senegal in West Africa. During my trip to this…
My Senegal Highlights: The Best Things to Do in This Vibrant Country.
Welcome to the vibrant and captivating country of Senegal in West Africa. During my trip to this extraordinary destination, I enjoyed experiencing a diverse range of incredible attractions that truly showcase Senegal’s unique culture, natural beauty, and rich history. From historic islands and vibrant cities to peaceful nature reserves and warm coastal communities, Senegal offers a remarkable array of experiences for all travellers that’s hard to match.
This post isn’t an exhaustive list of everything to do in Senegal – it’s my top highlights. These are the 11 experiences that left a lasting impression on me, stirring emotion, sparking curiosity, and making me say, “I’m so glad I came”.
If you’re considering a visit – or just curious about what makes Senegal so special – these highlights might just inspire your next adventure.
About Senegal
Soccer is the second most popular sport in Senegal, after wrestling.
Senegal is a vibrant and culturally rich country located on the westernmost tip of Africa, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean. It is renowned for its dynamic blend of tradition, modern development, and natural beauty. Often considered one of West Africa’s most politically stable and welcoming nations, Senegal offers travellers a captivating mix of experiences – from historic sites and lively cities to stunning beaches and wildlife reserves.
The capital, Dakar, is a lively coastal metropolis renowned for its music, art, and nightlife, as well as its poignant history tied to the transatlantic slave trade, most notably at Gorée Island. Inland, visitors can explore the Great Mosque of Touba, the spiritual heart of the Mouride Brotherhood, or journey north to Saint-Louis, a UNESCO-listed colonial city with charming, faded facades.
Nature lovers will find plenty to admire, from the pink waters of Lac Rose to the birdlife at Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary and the roaming wildlife at Bandia Wildlife Reserve. The country’s coastline offers both bustling fishing towns like Kayar and peaceful resort areas along the Petite Côte.
Senegal’s rich culture is evident in its diverse ethnic groups, including the Wolof, Serer, Fulani, and Diola, each with its own distinct language, customs, and traditions. French is the official language, but Wolof is widely spoken. Renowned for its legendary teranga (hospitality), lively music and dance, tasty cuisine such as thieboudienne (a fish and rice dish), and a calendar filled with vibrant festivals, Senegal offers a truly engaging and authentic African experience.
IFAN Museum of African Arts: A Pillar of West African Cultural Heritage
Visit the IFAN Museum of African Arts in Dakar to explore one of West Africa’s oldest and most significant collections of traditional masks, sculptures, textiles, and musical instruments, offering a profound insight into the region’s rich cultural heritage.
A ceremonial mask from Guinea, to ward off dangers to the tribe.
An initiation ceremony mask from Senegal.
A Dogon ritual mask, Mali.
Established in 1936, the IFAN Museum of African Arts, officially known as the Théodore Monod African Art Museum, in Dakar, is one of the oldest and most significant art museums in West Africa.
It is a small, well-organised museum that covers all aspects of African culture, spanning centuries and regions, and is a delight to explore. I discovered exhibits of traditional clothing, carvings, musical instruments, ceremonial masks, tools, ceramics, textiles, weapons, and more. All the information plaques were in French, but I was fortunate to have a very patient guide who translated everything for me, as my schoolgirl French was insufficient to understand the written text. Had I visited the museum on my own, I would have simply been gazing at the objects without knowing the stories behind them.
Interestingly, I wasn’t allowed to take photos inside the museum with my camera, but I was allowed to do so with my mobile phone. Go figure!
During my visit, the IFAN Museum of African Arts hosted a comprehensive and brilliant exhibition that highlighted the differences and similarities among the former French West African colonies. Much of what I saw reminded me of my trip to Mali some years ago.
Visiting the IFAN Museum provides an insightful exploration of the artistic and spiritual traditions of West Africa. The artifacts on display change regularly, so even if you’ve visited before, it’s worth revisiting.
Museum of Black Civilisations: A Journey Through African Heritage and Global Dialogue
Visit the Museum of Black Civilisations in Dakar to explore a monumental celebration of African heritage and the global Black diaspora, where expansive exhibits – from ancient artifacts to contemporary art – highlight Africa’s profound contributions to world history, science, and culture.
The giant baobab tree sculpture in the entrance hall of the Museum of Black Civilisations in Dakar.
A modern interpretation of a traditional West African mask in the Museum of Black Civilisations.
The Museum of Black Civilisations, which opened on 6 December 2018, is a national museum in Dakar that traces the journey of Black civilisations from the cradle of humanity through the Iron Age, medieval empires, spiritual traditions, and the African diaspora, including slavery, resistance, and independence movements.
It is a groundbreaking cultural institution dedicated to celebrating the histories, achievements, artistic expressions, and global impact of Black civilisations across Africa. The museum’s extensive collection ranges from prehistoric tools and ancient sculptures to contemporary art and textiles, illustrating the significant contributions of African civilisations to global culture and science.
Although the information about the exhibits was written only in French, which my guide translated, I found it easy to follow and understand the timelines presented on my own.
I enjoyed the artworks on display on the museum’s upper floors. While able to discern the connection to the cultural artifacts I saw at the IFAN Museum of African Arts, these presented a modern perspective on the traditional.
The Museum of Black Civilisations was more than just its exhibitions. I found it to be an educational platform that explores Africa’s significant contributions to science, art, philosophy, and global culture, while also confronting the legacies of colonialism and the diaspora. Above all, it was a place for reflection!
Gorée Island: A Powerful Memorial to the Transatlantic Slave Trade
Gorée Island is a hauntingly powerful destination.
Visit Gorée Island to walk through a powerful chapter of history, where pastel colonial buildings and the haunting House of Slaves tell the story of West Africa’s role in the transatlantic slave trade.
Colourful colonial buildings line Gorée Island’s harbour.
Just a short ferry ride from Senegal’s capital, Dakar, Gorée Island presents a charming exterior with its pastel facades and flower-filled narrow alleys while holding a deep history of centuries of pain, resistance, and remembrance. It offers an experience that is both enchanting and emotional.
Visiting Gorée Island on a day trip from Dakar, I walked through cells once used to imprison enslaved Africans and stood before the Door of No Return, reflecting on and haunted by the lives forever changed by the transatlantic slave trade.
Gorée Island was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978 to recognise its historical significance in the slave trade and its well-preserved colonial architecture.
A visit to Gorée Island is more than just a day trip; it’s a powerful encounter with history. Visiting it offers a sobering yet vital experience that connects past injustices to ongoing discussions about identity, heritage, and the pursuit of healing.
Visit Fadiouth Island to experience a one-of-a-kind village built almost entirely on seashells, where rich cultural traditions and peaceful religious coexistence create a truly unforgettable atmosphere.
Fadiouth Island: A mosque, a Catholic church, and a street made entirely of clamshells. Note the size of the wheels on the wheelchair (pushed by the man in the red shirt) needed to roll over the shells.
Fadiouth Island is also called “Shell Island” because this small island is entirely made up of cockle (clam) shells, a result of centuries of shellfish gathering. The residents collect the cockles at low tide, remove the meat, dry it, and discard the shells on the ground. These shells form the island’s foundation, streets, buildings, and pathways, creating a uniquely strange environment. According to my local guide, the shells are three metres thick. The crunching sound when you walk means there was no sneaking up on anyone!
The island is famous for its cemetery, which is also made entirely of shells. But what truly sets this cemetery apart is its testament to religious tolerance and peaceful coexistence. Throughout Senegal, Muslims and Christians are buried in separate cemeteries. However, in Fadiouth cemetery, the graves of Muslims and Christians lie side by side in the same sacred space.
Fadiouth Island is located on the southern edge of Senegal’s Petite Côte, about 114 kilometres south of Dakar, near the town of Joal.
Fadiouth is more than a quirky geological curiosity. The warm welcome from residents, their pride in their traditions, and their harmonious mixed-faith community, along with their willingness to share stories, made this island a place like no other I have visited.
Visit Bandia Wildlife Reserve to experience an accessible West African safari, where giraffes, rhinos, zebras, ostriches, and antelopes roam freely among ancient baobab trees, all within a conservation success story just an hour from Dakar.
A white rhino, an ostrich, and a giant eland were just some of the animals seen in the Bandia Wildlife Reserve.
Just 65 kilometres south of Dakar, Bandia Wildlife Reserve is a private nature reserve covering 3,500 hectares of fenced savannah. It is a conservation success story that reintroduced native species that had been lost from the region for a long time due to poaching and habitat loss. Expect to see a diverse range of wildlife up close, such as giraffes, white rhinos, zebras, buffalo, antelopes, warthogs, monkeys, ostriches, and crocodiles – all from a hired safari vehicle or your own vehicle.
With a mix of wildlife and West African culture – think ancient baobab trees used as tombs – Bandia Wildlife Reserve is more than just a place to see native animals; it’s a testament to conservation, a visual reminder of Senegal’s diverse culture and natural beauty, and a chance to connect with the wild.
Bandia isn’t the Serengeti, but a well-managed, family-friendly reserve that brings the magic of African wildlife within easy reach of Dakar.
Visit Lac Rose (“Pink Lake”) to witness its astonishing pink waters—caused by salt-loving algae—and experience the unique buoyancy of its hypersaline lake, all just an hour from Dakar.
Lac Rose (Pink Lake).
Lac Rose (also known as Lake Retba) is a stunning natural wonder in Senegal, located approximately 35 kilometres northwest of Dakar. A shallow lake (1.5 metres deep) surrounded by dunes, it is famous for its vibrant pink waters, caused by a salt-loving algae. The lake is at its most stunning pink hue during the dry season, from November to June, when there is little rain to dilute the salt.
With a salt content higher than the Dead Sea, you won’t sink when swimming in the lake – an unusual experience. Just make sure you have no open wounds or cuts.
Lac Rose has a thriving salt harvesting industry, utilising traditional methods to collect salt from the lakebed. I watched men wade into the lake with canoe-like boats to dig up the salt, shovelling bucket loads into their boats. Once full, they pushed the boats to the shore, where they transferred the salt into metal basins. Women carried these salt-filled basins, weighing about 50 kilograms, on their heads to the salt mounds on the shore. My guide told me that the women go back and forth for three hours straight – a hard job, but well paid.
Workers collecting salt from Lac Rose.
Lac Rose is not just a visual spectacle – it’s a place where nature, culture, and industry come together in vivid colour. Whether you’re drawn by its beauty, its stories, or its salt-laden waters, it’s a destination that leaves a lasting impression.
The combination of the pink lake, salt collection, salt mounds, and dunes provided me with numerous opportunities to capture exceptional and memorable photos.
Before leaving the area, my driver let some air out of the tyres for a thrilling drive over the dunes to the wild Atlantic coast.
Kayar: Senegal’s Vibrant Fishing Community
Visit Kayar to witness the vibrant rhythm of one of Senegal’s largest artisanal fishing centres, where colourful pirogues line the golden shores, and the daily catch drives rich cultural traditions and coastal life.
Kayar Fishing Harbour – Selling the morning’s catch directly from the boat.
Kayar is a lively coastal town about 60 kilometres north of Dakar. Best known as the country’s third-largest and most self-regulated artisanal fishing centre, Kayar is a place where the Atlantic Ocean, quite literally, feeds daily life. Each morning, Kayar’s beach transforms into a vibrant, open-air fish market where I had the opportunity to witness the local fishing culture firsthand.
Kayar was a hive of activity and a kaleidoscope of colour from hundreds of hand-painted, vividly coloured wooden pirogues (traditional fishing boats), each bearing unique family symbols. The boats, laden with fish, come to the beach and anchor onshore. Men go to the boats, buy the fish directly from the captains, and then sell the fish to the people waiting on the beach. And then it’s back out to sea for another catch.
The larger pirogues can carry a crew of 30 fishermen, who fish manually. The captain sets the price of the fish, based on the type of fish and how long it took to catch.
Boat building is a related industry along Kayar’s beach and is worth a visit – if you can drag yourself away from the activity along the shoreline – with the boats being handmade.
I didn’t explore the town itself but spent my time on the beach watching traditional practices in action. I can only describe it as a thrilling experience – one that should not be missed when visiting Senegal.
Kayar is not about luxury or arranged experiences – it’s about immersion. It’s where you witness the rhythm of life shaped by the tides, and where resilience and tradition meet in every haul of the net.
Saint-Louis, Senegal: A Timeless Island of Culture, History, and Charm
Visit Saint-Louis to soak up the charm of Senegal’s former colonial capital, where faded French architecture, a rich trading history, and a thriving arts scene come together on an island at the mouth of the Senegal River.
Saint-Louis’ French colonial architecture sets a backdrop for its fishing fleet.
Saint-Louis is an island and a city at the mouth of the Senegal River, 234 kilometres north of Dakar, near the border with Mauritania. It is connected to the mainland by the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Faidherbe Bridge, designed by Gustave Eiffel and opened to the public in 1897.
Faidherbe Bridge, designed by Gustave Eiffel, connects Saint-Louis to the mainland.
Founded in 1659 by the French, Saint Louis was the first French settlement in West Africa and served as the capital of French West Africa until the early 20th century. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is celebrated for its unique blend of faded pastel-coloured colonial buildings, vibrant street life, artistic flair, traditional fishing communities, and its famous jazz festival.
After settling into my hotel, I joined my guide to explore Saint Louis in a traditional caleche (horse-drawn cart). Though a very ‘touristy’ activity, it was a practical way to see much of the city in a short time and soak up its atmosphere. Later, I walked back to the areas I had seen on the caleche and wanted to revisit. I especially enjoyed wandering around the quaysides and poking my head into artists’ workshops.
Saint-Louis is more than just a place to visit. It’s where history hangs in the air and creativity flows like the river that surrounds it.
Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary: A Wetland Wonderland for Bird Lovers
Visit Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary to see one of the world’s most important wetland reserves, where more than 400 bird species – including immeasurable flocks of pelicans – gather in a serene UNESCO-listed habitat just north of Saint-Louis.
Pelicans in Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary were continuously taking off and landing.
Located 53 kilometres north of Saint-Louis, Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most important bird sanctuaries in the world. Opening in 1971 and spanning 16,000 hectares within the Senegal River delta, this wetland ecosystem comprises a network of lakes, streams, ponds, and backwaters.
Serving as a critical stopover for migratory birds crossing the Sahara, Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary hosts over 1.5 million birds annually, including more than 365 species such as white pelicans, flamingos, African spoonbills, great egrets, and cormorants. The optimal visiting period is from November to April, aligning with the peak migratory season, when birds arrive in staggering numbers.
I got to witness the migratory spectacle of white pelicans on a two-hour guided boat tour, with hundreds of pelicans gathered near the reeds, landing in the water, or taking flight in search of a less crowded resting spot. At one point, the pelicans streaked across the sky and down the waterway like planes on a bombing raid. It reminded me of the 1955 film The Dam Busters, as wave after wave of pelicans flew over our heads and to the side of the boat. A truly wondrous sight!
I saw at least a dozen bird species – and they’re just the ones I can remember. On our way back to the jetty, we motored past an island jam-packed with grey-coloured baby pelicans. According to the Djoudj guide, these babies were one and a half months old, and they don’t learn to fly until four months old. I saw some baby pelicans swimming in lines of three abreast, close to the island. It looked like a swimming school!
Djoudj is more than a bird sanctuary – it’s a living, breathing ecosystem that offers a front-row seat to one of nature’s most awe-inspiring migrations. Whether you’re a seasoned birder or a curious traveller, it’s a place that leaves you wanting more.
The Great Mosque of Touba: Spiritual Heart of Senegal’s Mouride Brotherhood
Visit the Great Mosque of Touba to experience one of Africa’s largest and most sacred Islamic sites – a stunning architectural masterpiece and spiritual centre of the Mouride Brotherhood, where the legacy of its founder, Sheikh Ahmadou Bamba, draws millions of pilgrims each year.
Beautiful Moroccan tiles decorate the interior of the Great Mosque of Touba.
Two of the Great Mosque of Touba’s five minarets.
The Great Mosque of Touba is an architectual marvel.
The Great Mosque of Touba, in the holy city of Touba, about 200 kilometres east of Dakar, is one of the most iconic religious landmarks in West Africa. Built in 1887 and continually expanded since then, the mosque is the holiest site for the Mouride Brotherhood, a powerful Sufi Islamic order. It houses the tomb of their founder, Sheikh Ahmadou Bamba.
The mosque is an impressive architectural marvel with five minarets, three large domes, and a prayer hall that accommodates over 7,000 worshipers. The interiors feature beautiful Italian terrazzo floors, Moroccan tiles, and handmade carpets.
The mosque is open to non-Muslims outside prayer times. I was provided with a long wrap-skirt and a scarf to wear during my visit.
Touba is a dry city where alcohol, tobacco, music, and dancing are prohibited to maintain its sanctity and devotion.
Visiting the Great Mosque of Touba is not just a cultural experience – it’s a profound encounter with Senegal’s spiritual soul, where faith, architecture, and community converge in harmony.
Kunta Kinteh Island: A Haunting Legacy on the Gambia River
Visit Kunta Kinteh Island to confront the haunting legacy of the transatlantic slave trade at a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where the ruins of Fort James and surrounding landmarks stand as solemn reminders of the resilience of those who endured unimaginable hardships.
The ruins of Fort James on Kunta Kinteh Island – a key site in the transatlantic slave trade.
The Gambia, located on the Atlantic coast, is a narrow country within the borders of Senegal, and is not much wider than the Gambia River, which shapes its geography. I took a day trip to The Gambia to visit Kunta Kinteh Island, crossing the border at Kartong.
Previously known as James Island, Kunta Kinteh Island is a small yet historically significant site located 30 kilometres upstream from the mouth of the Gambia River in The Gambia. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the island was a key site in the transatlantic slave trade. It housed a fort (Fort James) used by various European powers – Portuguese, Dutch, and British – for the capture, storage, and shipment of enslaved Africans bound for the Americas. Today, its crumbling walls and solitary prison cell stand as haunting reminders of centuries of human suffering.
Kunta Kinteh Island can be reached by boat from Juffureh.
The island was renamed in 2011 to honour Kunta Kinte, the enslaved Gambian man whose story was popularised in Alex Haley’s book Roots. Although fictionalised, the story reflects the real experiences of many Africans forcibly taken from this region. All enslaved Africans captured in The Gambia were imprisoned on Kunta Kinteh Island before being loaded onto the slave ships docked there.
Kunta Kinteh Island is not just a place – it’s a profoundly moving and reflective experience. As with Gorée Island, I felt a connection with the painful legacy of slavery and the enduring spirit of those who lived through it – something I did not expect to feel.
When planning my trip to West Africa (Benin, Togo, Ghana, The Gambia, and Senegal), I was ignorant of the extent of the slave trade in the region. What I saw, read, and heard has left a profound emotional impact that remains deeply ingrained in my memory. The resilience of people never ceases to amaze me.
I was required to show proof of my yellow fever vaccination for entry into The Gambia.
General Travel Tips for Senegal
I travelled around Senegal with a private guide and driver. However, according to my guide, it is possible to get around independently without a guide and driver or on a group tour. While there are no trains in Senegal, there is a public bus system that connects towns. Taxis are not expensive, and you can bargain for the fare.
French is the official language of Senegal, but Wolof is the most widely spoken. English is not commonly spoken, and I was hard-pressed to get by in Senegal with my schoolgirl French. Luckily, my private guide spoke excellent English and was happy to translate whenever needed. I found using Google Translate to be an exasperating experience, especially when trying to decipher menus with my camera. I was never sure what I was ordering!
Due to its tropical climate, Senegal experiences a warm climate throughout the year, characterised by two distinct seasons: a dry season, which lasts roughly from November to June, and a wet season from July to October. The dry season is considered the best time to visit, as it offers warm, sunny days with lower humidity and cooler nights. It is perfect for visiting places like Saint-Louis, Gorée Island, Bandia Wildlife Reserve, and Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary. Avoid the wet season when heavy rains and high humidity can make travel unpleasant.
I visited Senegal in February and experienced temperatures from the mid-20s to the low 30s (degrees Celsius), depending on where I was in the country, with no rainfall. The weather plays a crucial role in your enjoyment of your trip. Knowing the long-range city weather forecasts beforehand can help you avoid disappointment. When planning my trips, my go-to resource is the World Meteorological Organisation’s (WMO) World Weather Information Services. Check my blog post for details on WMO.
Be prepared for things to move at a slower pace – patience is the key. Having lived in Namibia for several years, I came to know what I call “African time”!
The currency is the West African CFA franc. Cash is king! Many places don’t accept cards, and ATMs can be unreliable. I prepaid all my hotels before leaving Australia.
Senegal is predominantly a Muslim country, so dress modestly.
As I reflect on my time spent exploring the wonders of Senegal, I am filled with a sense of awe and gratitude for the incredible experiences I had the privilege of encountering. From the soul-stirring history etched into Gorée Island to the spiritual serenity of the Great Mosque of Touba, and from the lively atmosphere of Kayar’s fishing harbour to the tranquil, shell-laden streets of Fadiouth Island, Senegal has left an indelible mark on my heart and soul. The 11 attractions I have shared with you in this blog post offer just a glimpse into the beauty and diversity that Senegal has to offer.
I hope this journey through Senegal has inspired you to include this remarkable country in your travel plans. Whether you are drawn to the history, culture, nature, or the warm hospitality of the Senegalese people, I can assure you that a trip to Senegal will be a truly unforgettable experience. So, pack your bags, open your heart to new adventures, and get ready to be immersed in the magic of Senegal, where every corner holds a story waiting to be discovered.
A visit to Senegal is not just a travel destination – it’s a transformative journey that will stay with you long after you have returned home.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. Unless specifically credited, all photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
Which of these Senegalese highlights sparks your wanderlust the most? Let me know in the comments below!
I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.
Like this post? Save it for later!
Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
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A UNIQUE DAY TRIP: The Haunting Memory of Gorée Island. Visiting Gorée Island is more than just a day trip to a picturesque destination with vibrant colonial architecture; it’s a profound encounter with a history filled with centuries of pain, resistance, and remembrance. A must-visit spot!
SAFARI BLISS IN SENEGAL: My Adventure at Bandia Wildlife Reserve. Senegal is unlikely to feature on your list when considering a safari in Africa. However, the small Bandia Wildlife Reserve, a conservation success story, offered an intimate, rewarding, and rich safari experience unlike those in the big-name parks.
Discover Why Bandia Wildlife Reserve Gave Me a Better Safari Experience Than Some of Africa’s Largest National Parks – All in Two Hours! Senegal is unlikely to make your…
Discover Why Bandia Wildlife Reserve Gave Me a Better Safari Experience Than Some of Africa’s Largest National Parks – All in Two Hours!
Senegal is unlikely to make your list when considering a safari in Africa. Yet just an hour’s drive from the bustling capital of Dakar, you’ll discover Bandia Wildlife Reserve – home to reintroduced species such as giraffes, rhinos, zebras, and antelopes, offering visitors a chance to see African wildlife in a semi-natural environment. I was thrilled to find such a variety of wildlife in a country where I hadn’t expected to encounter such a setting until it appeared in my travel research. I was surprised in the best possible way!
Whether you’re a nature enthusiast, a photography buff, or someone searching for a unique day trip, Bandia Wildlife Reserve provides a memorable experience combining Senegalese landscapes, history, and conservation into a single accessible adventure.
Join me as I share my unforgettable safari through Bandia Wildlife Reserve.
About Bandia Wildlife Reserve
Located just 65 kilometres south of Dakar, Bandia Wildlife Reserve was established in 1990 as Senegal’s first private nature reserve. Covering 3,500 hectares of fenced savannah, it’s a conservation success story that reintroduced native species long lost from the region due to poaching and habitat loss.
You can expect to see a diverse range of wildlife, including:
giraffes,
white rhinoceroses,
zebras,
antelopes (such as elands and impalas),
monkeys (patas and vervet),
warthogs,
crocodiles,
ostriches, and
over 120 bird species.
One of Bandia Wildlife Reserve’s unique aspects is its blend of wildlife and West African culture. Scattered throughout the reserve are reconstructed Serer burial mounds, traditional Peulh huts, and an ancient baobab tree once used as a tomb for griots (Senegal’s revered oral historians).
Bandia Wildlife Reserve’s landscape is straight out of an African nature documentary – think towering baobab trees, wide-open plains, and clusters of acacia trees that provide shade to wandering herds. Bandia’s founders have created a balanced ecosystem that’s both welcoming to wildlife and inviting for visitors.
Exploring Bandia Wildlife Reserve is typically done via guided 4WD safari tours, allowing close encounters with wildlife in their natural habitats. The reserve features a restaurant and bar overlooking a waterhole, where you can relax and observe animals like buffalo and crocodiles. There is also an excellent souvenir shop.
Are you a wildlife enthusiast, a photographer, or looking for a family-friendly adventure? Bandia Wildlife Reserve offers an unforgettable experience that feels worlds away yet is incredibly accessible.
The Safari Experience
You can tour Bandia Wildlife Reserve in your own car, by taxi, or hire an on-site open-sided safari truck (reservations aren’t necessary), seating 8-24 people. However, a 4WD is crucial during wet weather.
I was in Senegal on a private tour with a guide and driver in a 4WD vehicle. I travelled through the Bandia Wildlife Reserve in this vehicle. Whether you opt for your own vehicle, taxi, or the reserve’s safari truck, hiring one of Bandia’s specially trained guides is mandatory. These guides are skilled at spotting wildlife and knowledgeable about Bandia’s history, conservation efforts, and cultural heritage.
Driving around Bandia Wildlife Reserve, I was thrilled by how often I spotted animals and birds and the diversity of what I encountered.
I’ve been on safari in several of Africa’s larger, open-range national parks and loved the adventure they offer. However, the vastness of these landscapes can mean hours of driving without a single sighting. In contrast, my experience at Bandia Wildlife Reserve was uniquely different. Within two hours, I encountered an impressive range of wildlife – giraffes, zebras, rhinos, antelope, monkeys, ostriches, and more – with hardly a moment of stillness between sightings. While Bandia may not have the scale or remoteness of the big-name parks, there’s something to be said for a small, well-managed, enclosed reserve where animals roam freely but are easier to find. It didn’t feel staged; instead, it felt intimate and rewarding – ideal for travellers seeking a rich safari experience without the long waits or need for multiple game drives.
My wildlife safari photo gallery
A white rhino rests in the shade of a tree.
A lone giant eland (also known as the Derby eland or Lord Derby’s eland) stands proud in the African bush. It is the largest species of antelope in the world.
A warthog drinks from a waterhole. My Bandia Wildlife Reserve guide told me they are the only animals that can get in and out of the reserve because they burrow under the fencing.
A zebra wanders past boxthorn bushes.
Male ostriches have black feathers, while females have grey feathers. Male ostriches can be quite aggressive, especially during the mating season.
A male and female giraffe.
The Abyssinian roller, also known as the Senegal roller, has vivid blue body feathers and impressively long outer tail feathers. It is, without a doubt, a stunning bird.
A spotted hyena. The hyenas in Bandia Wildlife Reserve are kept in an enclosure because they were killing the animals.
Cultural and Historical Highlights
The Bandia Wildlife Reserve showcases wildlife and honours Senegal’s rich cultural heritage.
During the drive, my safari guide showed me a one-thousand-year-old sacred baobab tree used historically as a tomb for griots, the traditional West African keepers of knowledge and oral tradition. Baobab trees were considered sacred by the Serer people and regarded as a fitting place for the remains of the griots, who were revered as wise men and sages.
Deceased griots were placed in the hollow trunks of baobab trees rather than being buried in the ground to ensure their knowledge remained accessible and didn’t get lost in the earth. This practice has been outlawed since 1962 due to public health concerns. Nevertheless, the baobab trees still hold sacred significance for the local population.
The one-thousand-year-old sacred baobab tree – an ancient tomb for griots inside Bandia Wildlife Reserve (a practice now banned). There were human skulls inside the hollow of the tree. However, I suspect they were placed there for the benefit of tourists.
Practical Information
Opening hours
Bandia Wildlife Reserve is open daily from 8.00 am to 6.00 pm.
Ticket prices
Adults: 12,000 FCFA (West African CFA Franc) (approximately €18,50)
Children (under 12 years): 7,000 FCFA franc (approximately €10,50)
Vehicle entry (personal car or taxi): 7,000 FCFA (approximately €15)
Guide per vehicle (mandatory): 6,500 FCFA (approximately €10)
You can make payments in FCFA, Euros, or by credit card.
On-site facilities
Bandia Wildlife Reserve has a large on-site restaurant overlooking a waterhole teeming with Nile crocodiles. I didn’t eat there as I was having lunch at Lac Rose (Pink Lake), so I can’t comment on the quality of the food on the menu.
Two Nile crocodiles rest on the banks of the waterhole that Bandia Wildlife Reserve’s restaurant overlooks.
An excellent, upmarket, boutique-style souvenir shop is in the same building as the restaurant. I wanted to buy a book on Bandia Wildlife Reserve, but unfortunately, they were only in French.
Best time to visit
Senegal is situated at Africa’s westernmost point, along the Atlantic Ocean. It experiences a tropical climate with two distinct seasons: a dry season from November to June and a wet season from July to October. Temperatures remain warm to hot throughout the year, averaging about 36 degrees Celsius.
I always recommend visiting a wildlife park in Africa during the dry season because the animals are drawn to the waterholes.
For optimal wildlife viewing, visit during the cooler hours of the morning or late afternoon, as animals tend to be more active at these times than in the heat of the midday period.
How to Get to Bandia Wildlife Reserve
Bandia Wildlife Reserve is easily accessible by car from the capital, Dakar, and Saly’s resort area. Except for the last 800 metres, the roads are sealed, well-signposted, and in good condition.
From Dakar (approximately 65 kilometres):
-> Head south on the A1 motorway from Dakar.
-> After approximately 60 kilometres, take Exit 14 toward Sindia/Popeguine.
-> Continue for 2 kilometres, then turn right onto National Road N1 (Dakar-Mbour).
-> Drive 3.3 kilometres on N1, then turn left at the signpost indicating Bandia Wildlife Reserve.
-> Continue on the unsealed track for 800 metres to reach the reserve entrance.
From Saly (approximately 15 kilometres):
-> Head north from Saly on National Road N1 toward Sindia.
-> After approximately 15 kilometres, watch for the signpost to Bandia Wildlife Reserve and turn right.
-> Continue on the unsealed track for 800 metres to reach the reserve entrance.
If you’re not driving, you can organise a private transfer or book a guided tour, typically from Dakar or Saly, that includes transport, park entry, and a safari guide. You can book half-day and full-day tours to Bandia Wildlife Reserve with companies like Viator, GetYourGuide, and ToursByLocals (all of which I’ve used on other trips and found to be excellent). The full-day tours are usually combined with other attractions, such as Pink Lake.
My visit to Bandia Wildlife Reserve was, without a doubt, a highlight of my time in Senegal. It’s more than just a place to see animals; it’s a testament to conservation, a visual reminder of Senegal’s diverse natural beauty, and a chance to reconnect with the wild. It’s an easily manageable day trip that packs a punch, offering a genuine taste of safari life without having to venture deep into other parts of Africa.
Whether you’re a seasoned safari-goer or just seeking something different to do, Bandia Wildlife Reserve provides an accessible and remarkably rewarding experience. So, if you find yourself in Senegal, make time for this magical encounter – it left me with lasting memories, stunning photos, and a deeper appreciation for Senegal’s hidden natural treasures.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
Have you ever visited a smaller wildlife reserve like Bandia? Did it surprise you compared to the big-name safari parks? I’d love to hear about your experiences – share them in the comments below!
I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.
Like this post? Save it for later!
Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
You might also like
A UNIQUE DAY TRIP: The Haunting Memory of Gorée Island, Senegal. Visiting Gorée Island is more than just a day trip to a picturesque destination with vibrant colonial architecture; it’s a profound encounter with a history filled with centuries of pain, resistance, and remembrance. A must-visit spot!
This Tiny Island in Senegal Tells a Story the World Must Never Forget I spent two fabulous weeks in Senegal, West Africa, experiencing as much as possible on a…
This Tiny Island in Senegal Tells a Story the World Must Never Forget
I spent two fabulous weeks in Senegal, West Africa, experiencing as much as possible on a private tour with my guide, Serigne, and driver, Pap, based on an itinerary I developed in consultation with Native Eye Travel. It was a memorable trip with many highlights, including museums in Dakar, Lac Rose (Pink Lake), Fadiouth Island (built on clamshells), Bandia Wildlife Reserve, and more. However, my day trip to Gorée Island was the most poignant.
Just a short ferry ride from Dakar, Gorée Island presents a charming exterior with its pastel facades and narrow alleys while holding a deep history of centuries of pain, resistance, and remembrance. It offers an experience that is both enchanting and emotional.
As I walked through cells once used to imprison enslaved people on Gorée Island and stood before the Door of No Return, I reflected on the lives forever changed by the transatlantic slave trade. This post shares what I discovered on Gorée Island – what to see, how to get there, and, most importantly, why this tiny island left such a lasting impression.
About Gorée Island
Gorée Island lies three kilometres off the coast of Senegal, directly across from Dakar. While it is a small island – approximately 900 metres long and 350 metres wide – its historical significance far outweighs its size.
Discovered by the Portuguese in the 15th century, the island was successively ruled by the Portuguese, Dutch, English, and French from the 15th to the 19th century, using Gorée Island as a strategic trading post.
From 1536 to 1848 (when the French abolished slavery), Gorée Island was active in the transatlantic slave trade, particularly under French control. The island served as a major holding and embarkation centre for enslaved Africans who were forcibly taken from West Africa and kept in cramped, dark cells while awaiting transport across the Atlantic to the Americas.
Gorée Island functioned as both a residential and commercial centre for European traders and a place of imprisonment for captured Africans. The island witnessed unimaginable human suffering, with many enslaved people dying before even setting foot on a ship.
While Gorée Island may not have experienced the highest volume of slave departures, its preserved structures and historical exhibits offer a tangible and solemn connection to this dark chapter of human history. The island has become a pilgrimage site, especially for Africans and African Americans seeking to reconnect with their roots.
In 1978, Gorée Island was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of its historical significance in the slave trade and its well-preserved colonial architecture.
How to Get to Gorée Island
Gorée Island is accessible only by boat. The easiest and cheapest way to get there is to take the direct Gorée Ferry from Dakar’s passenger terminal. Ferries depart every two hours, daily, from 7 am to midnight. Tickets are available at the terminal and cost about 5,000 CFA (approximately USD9) for a return trip. A passport is required to purchase a ticket and to board the ferry – a copy is not accepted.
The ferry ride takes 25-30 minutes. Arrive early to grab a seat on the upper deck for scenic views of Dakar and the approach to Gorée Island.
Approaching Gorée Island, as viewed from the ferry.
Things to Do and See on Gorée Island
Gorée Island offers a unique blend of historical significance and natural beauty. Visit the House of Slaves, a poignant reminder of the island’s transatlantic slave trade, and stroll through the colourful, narrow streets. Admire the colonial architecture, explore the fortifications, and soak up the charming island atmosphere.
House of Slaves (Maison des Esclaves):
The House of Slaves with a view of the Door of No Return. Enslaved Africans were imprisoned in cells on the ground floor while the upper floor was the residence of the slave trader.
The House of Slaves was a slave-holding warehouse and is the island’s most sombre and emotionally powerful site. Built in 1776, this pink-hued building once served as one of the 28 prisons for enslaved Africans on Gorée Island before they were forced aboard ships bound for the Americas. It is now a museum and memorial to the victims of the transatlantic slave trade on Gorée Island – to those who never returned!
Native Eye Travel arranged a private tour of the House of Slaves for me with the Head Curator, and the museum was closed for the duration of my tour.
Inside, narrow corridors led to dark, airless holding cells where men, women, and children were imprisoned separately. Some of these spaces were no larger than a closet, and the living conditions of the enslaved people were atrocious. Families were separated, and children were held away from their mothers. They spent days chained and shackled to the floor, unable to move, and only set free once a day to eat and relieve themselves. Young girls, confined separately from the other women, were particularly vulnerable to sexual exploitation.
The enslaved females’ cell in the House of Slaves.
The cell for enslaved young girls in the House of Slaves.
However, the most haunting feature of the House of Slaves was the Door of No Return. This small seaside doorway marked the last point of contact for enslaved individuals with their homeland. Standing in its shadow, I felt the weight of history pressing down on me. Its symbolic and emotional significance was immense. I found myself motionless, initially unable to photograph what I saw, as I needed to acknowledge the pain that the Door of No Return symbolised.
The House of Slaves: The Door of No Return. Through this door, enslaved men, women, and children stepped from their homeland onto a waiting ship that would transport them to the Americas.
I truly appreciated my private tour, as having other people moving in and out of the cells and around the Door of No Return would have diminished my emotional experience. The House of Slaves was more than a museum; it was a portal to the collective trauma of a people torn from their roots and a powerful reminder of history.
The Statue of Liberation of Slaves is a powerful statue depicting a man and woman embracing as their chains are released. It is located near the House of Slaves. (Sculptors: Mrs Jean and Christian Moisa)
A walking tour of the island:
Beyond the House of Slaves, the island beckons for quiet exploration. Serigne led me through leafy alleyways, past colourful colonial architecture adorned with wrought-iron balconies and crumbling walls held together by bougainvillea.
Gorée Island’s charm is revealed as you wander down its many pretty alleyways.
Colourful colonial architecture is widely featured on Gorée Island.
We walked past open-air art galleries on our way to the highest point of Gorée Island, called the ‘castle’ even though no castle exists. However, two large cannons installed by the French during the Second World War dominate the hill.
These two French cannons were strategically positioned on Gorée Island’s highest point.
Lastly, Serigne took me to the Historical Museum of Senegal in Gorée, located in the former Fort d’Estrées, which the French built between 1852 and 1856. The museum presents the general history of Senegal and the more specific history of Gorée Island. Its layout follows a circular route divided into 13 rooms, covering periods from the Paleolithic Age to the slave trade and independence.
The former Fort d’Estrées, which now houses the Historical Museum.
Having previously visited two excellent museums in Dakar, I found the Gorée Historical Museum relatively uninteresting and neglected. Although all the information about the museum’s exhibits was written in French, this was not an issue, as Serigne was happy to translate for me, as he had done in the museums we visited in Dakar.
Gorée Island was full of contrasts – beauty, serenity, sadness, and suffering.
Where to eat:
Serigne and I lunched on the seafront at the Hostellerie du Chevalier de Boufflers. Shaded by large umbrellas, I ate lunch while looking out over the quiet harbour. My meal consisted of chicken with onion sauce and rice – a delicious traditional Senegalese dish.
Lunch at Hostellerie du Chevalier de Boufflers offers uninterrupted views of Gorée Island’s harbour and serves a great traditional Senegalese chicken dish with onion sauce and rice.
Tips for Visiting
French is the official language of Senegal, but Wolof is the most widely spoken. English is not commonly spoken, and I was hard-pressed to get by in Senegal with my schoolgirl French. Luckily, Serigne spoke excellent English and was happy to translate whenever needed. I found using Google Translate to be an exasperating experience, especially when translating menus with my camera. I was never sure what I was ordering!
A day trip to Gorée Island is all you need. I spent five hours on the island and saw everything there was to see, except for the Museum of the Sea and the Women’s Museum.
Gorée Island is car-free and has cobblestone streets. It may be tiny, but you will do a lot of walking, so comfortable shoes are essential.
Remember, you need a valid passport to travel to Gorée Island from Dakar. You cannot purchase a ferry ticket without one.
The House of Slaves is open Tuesday through Sunday and closed on Mondays. Its hours are 10.30 am to 12.00 pm and 3.00 pm to 6.00 pm.
The Historical Museum of Senegal in Gorée is open Tuesday through Sunday and closed on Mondays. Its hours are from 10.30 am to 4.30 pm.
Do you truly want to understand the history of Gorée Island, rather than merely wandering the streets? I recommend arranging a guided tour from Dakar with a reputable travel agency, such as Viator or Get Your Guide (both of which I have successfully used in the past). Alternatively, you can arrive on Gorée Island and choose one of the guides who meet the ferry.
Reflecting on my Experience
Visiting Gorée Island was not just another travel experience but a journey through history and humanity. It reminded me of the importance of confronting the past, no matter how painful, and honouring those whose lives were shaped by it.
Walking through the corridors that were once filled with unimaginable suffering was a sobering experience. But there was also hope in the quiet determination to remember and never forget.
Last view of the Door of No Return (in the red building) as I leave Gorée Island on the ferry for Dakar.
A visit to Gorée Island is more than just a day trip; it’s a powerful encounter with history. It invites you to slow down, listen, and reflect. While the island’s beauty is undeniable, the emotional weight of its past lingers long after the ferry ride back to Dakar.
Gorée Island reminds us of humanity’s capacity for cruelty but also of its resilience and the importance of remembering. If travelling through Senegal, set aside a day for Gorée Island. It’s not just about sightseeing – it’s about bearing witness. Gorée Island doesn’t just tell a story – it asks you to carry it with you.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
Have you visited Gorée Island or another historic site that left a deep impression on you? I’d love to hear your thoughts.
I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.
Like this post? Save it for later!
Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
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SAFARI BLISS IN SENEGAL: My Adventure at Bandia Wildlife Reserve. Senegal is unlikely to feature on your list when considering a safari in Africa. However, the small Bandia Wildlife Reserve, a conservation success story, offered an intimate, rewarding, and rich safari experience unlike those in big-name parks.
Safari in Mole National Park at Zaina Lodge – Ghana’s Greatest Secret Now Expose. Nestled within the heart of Ghana’s largest wildlife reserve, Mole National Park, Zaina Lodge offers…
Safari in Mole National Park at Zaina Lodge – Ghana’s Greatest Secret Now Expose.
Nestled within the heart of Ghana’s largest wildlife reserve, Mole National Park, Zaina Lodge offers a luxurious safari experience that blends comfort with adventure. This secluded retreat invites nature lovers to immerse themselves in the sights and sounds of the African wilderness. From its elevated vantage point, Zaina Lodge provides breathtaking views of the Park’s vast savannah and the chance to witness wildlife up close.
In this post, I’ll share my journey to this hidden gem, guide you through Mole National Park’s diverse wildlife, and give you a glimpse into the exceptional accommodations and experiences at Zaina Lodge. Accompanied by my own photos from this unforgettable adventure, get ready to be transported to a world of magic where nature and luxury coexist in harmony.
Forget the chocolate, which Ghana is famed for. Instead, go on a wildlife safari in Mole National Park (pronounced ‘mole-ah’) and stay in a luxury safari lodge.
When preparing for my West Africa trip, I came across Mole National Park and Zaina Lodge in my research. As a lover of safaris, wild animals, game drives, and luxury, I did not hesitate to add Mole National Park to my itinerary.
After a hectic small group trip through West Africa’s Togo, Benin and Ghana, I took myself to north-western Ghana for rest and recreation at Zaina Lodge in Mole National Park. The effort of getting there was so worth it, and it enabled me to re-energise before heading to Senegal for a month.
About Mole National Park Ghana
Mole National Park (pronounced ‘Moh-lay’) was established in 1958 and was the first Protected Area in Ghana. Located in northwest Ghana, it is the largest game reserve in Ghana, covering an area of 4,912 square kilometres and comprising savannah and forest habitats. The park has the widest range of wildlife in Ghana and is the only place in Ghana where you can experience elephants in the wild.
Mole National Park is rich in biodiversity and home to over 90 mammal species, including five primate species. Species of special interest include elephants, buffalo, Kob, Western Hartebeest, Roan Antelope, Defassa Waterbuck, Oribi, Bohor Reedbuck and Red-flanked Duiker. Rare and endangered species include the Yellow-backed Duiker, Black and White Colobus Monkey, leopard and lion. The park is also home to 334 bird species, 33 reptiles, nine amphibian species, and some 120 butterfly species.
Mole National Park has the most viable elephant population in Ghana (about 400) and is, as such, a hotspot for elephant conservation. It is also said that the park has a unique breed of elephants that are not hostile, aggressive, or insecure compared to other elephant populations in the rest of Africa. As such, it is one of few parks that allows visitors to approach the world’s largest land animal on foot. You can arrange for an armed ranger to join you in your own 4WD, but you are not allowed to explore Mole National Park unaccompanied.
In 2020, UNESCO included Mole National Park on its World Heritage Tentative List.
Getting to Zaina Lodge in Mole National Park
There are three ways to get to Mole National Park – plane, car, and bus.
I took the quickest option and flew from Accra, Ghan’s capital, to Tamale in the north. The flight took one hour. I had a pre-arranged transfer from Tamale Airport to Zaina Lodge – a drive of about 180 kilometres, taking approximately two and a half hours.
The two-and-a-half-hour drive from Tamale to Zaina Lodge passed quickly as there was much to see, passing through numerous towns and villages. Also, the road was the best I had experienced in Ghana.
The drive from Accra to Mole National Park by private car or through a transfer agency takes about 10-11 hours, with a driving distance of approximately 690 kilometres.
The cheapest option is to take a bus from Accra to Wa and then a taxi or minibus from Wa to Mole National Park. Depending on your connection in Wa, the journey takes about ten hours.
Zaina Lodge Ghana: Accommodation and Wildlife in Mole National Park
Zaina Lodge’s pool area at the main chalet.
Zaina Lodge is a luxury safari lodge located within Mole National Park with 24 large, spacious tented chalets facing two man-made waterholes. The tented chalets are on the top of an escarpment, which gave me an excellent view of the animals (mainly antelope and elephants) coming to drink at the waterholes.
The tented chalets are “framed with sustainably raised plantation teak”, including the porch, and finished with thatched roofs. Inside was pure luxury with a king-sized bed, television, desk and chair, terracotta floor tiles, and courtesy dressing gowns. The air-conditioned room featured a ceiling fan, in-room safe, minibar, and free WiFi. Behind the partial dividing wall (behind the bed) was the shower room, washroom, and toilet, with locally sourced shea butter soap. I knew I would be very comfortable for the next three nights!
My tented chalet at Zaina Lodge Ghana.
The interior of my tented chalet at Zaina Lodge.
The shower room and washroom in my tented chalet.
Zaina Lodge offers three packages: Zaina Bed and Breakfast, Zaina Half Board, and Zaina Experience. I booked the Zaina Experience because it included all meals and a daily safari drive. I booked additional safari drives as one a day would not satisfy my desire to see as much wildlife as possible. At one point, I questioned if I really needed safari drives because elephants would walk through the unfenced camp. Hence, there was a safety requirement for being escorted by a ranger to our chalets after the night meal. One particularly large male elephant was interested in the running water in front of the lodge’s main entrance.
Who needs a walking safari when you meet this gentle giant every morning on your way to breakfast?
Zaina Lodge offers morning and afternoon safari drives, a morning walking safari, and a canoe safari. I was keen to do a walking safari but opted against it after being told it was too cold for the animals to appear. I never expected to hear that it was too cold in the mornings because the temperatures in the area (mid-January) were 37-39 degrees Celsius! After learning I would not see hippos but mainly birds, I decided not to include a canoe safari in my itinerary. [My sister would have loved that!]
In the end, I didn’t need to book a walking safari because, on two occasions, we left the safari jeep with our armed ranger to walk up close to (within a safe distance) one elephant partially concealed by the bush and another that was having a dust bath.
An elephant gives itself a dust bath (natural sunscreen).
On our exciting safari drives, we had an armed ranger who doubled as our knowledgeable guide, sharing the names of the amazing animals we encountered. I spotted various types of antelope, playful monkeys, majestic elephants, inquisitive baboons, warthog families, crocodiles, and an incredible variety of birds, including some rare endangered species.
A gallery of some of the wildlife I saw on my Zaina Lodge safari drives in Mole National Park:
Northern Bushbuck
Roan Antelope
Hawk
Abyssinian Roller
A mother baboon and baby.
Elephants cross the road in front of us.
A common tradition on African safari drives is stopping mid-drive for a hot drink and snacks. I’ve had morning and afternoon tea in some of Africa’s most breathtaking places! On Zaina Lodge’s safari drives, our accompanying armed ranger would scout the area for animals before the driver served coffee, hot chocolate, tea, and biscuits.
Our safari driver serves morning tea.
The evening meal wasn’t always served in the lodge’s restaurant. One night, staff had set up the dining tables under the stars around the pool. On another occasion, dinner was a bar-b-que in a kraal (a fenced enclosure – usually made from dry, interwoven tree branches – to protect from predators).
After a month of travelling through West Africa and another month before heading home, I was ready for a massage. Thankfully, Zaina Lodge has an on-site wellness spa offering guests a host of massage therapies. I was pampered with a 30-minute foot massage and exfoliation treatment and a 45-minute back, shoulder, and head massage. I found the whole experience very relaxing.
I highly recommend Zaina Lodge. It is a beautiful setting to rest and relax while the attentive staff care for your needs (and wants!). I could go on as many game drives as I wanted, sleep in between, get a massage, or swim. In the mornings, all I could hear was bird song. It was so peaceful!
I found an email I sent to my family after leaving Mole National Park that best sums up my experience:
Zaina Lodge in Mole National Park was a fabulous experience, and I am so glad I included it in my itinerary. It was luxury accommodation with good food and attentive staff. I took four game drives, two of which included a bit of a walk as the ranger (armed) had seen elephant tracks, and we headed out of the vehicle to find them. I saw lots of elephants and other wildlife, ate too much, and felt very relaxed.
When To Go
Mole National Park has a tropical climate with a wet and dry season and warm temperatures year-round, with an average temperature of about 28 degrees Celsius.
The best time to visit Mole National Park to see wildlife is during the dry season, November to March, when animals gather around waterholes to drink. However, the dry harmattan winds can blow between December and February, bringing dusty, hazy weather.
The dry African savannah changes to lush vegetation during the rainy season, usually from April to October.
Zaina Lodge is more than just a place to stay – it’s an immersive safari experience that leaves a lasting impression. Whether exploring the park on a thrilling safari or relaxing in the comfort of a tented chalet, every moment is an opportunity to connect with nature. My stay at Zaina Lodge was unforgettable, filled with awe-inspiring wildlife encounters and serene moments overlooking the savannah.
If you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-path safari experience with a blend of comfort, luxury, and adventure, Zaina Lodge in Mole National Park is the perfect destination.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
Where was your favourite wildlife safari experience?
I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.
Like this post? Save it for Later!
Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
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Cruising Along the Chobe River Provides a Different Perspective on Wildlife Viewing Than a Traditional Land-Based Safari. Gliding along the tranquil waters of the Chobe River, where Namibia and…
Cruising Along the Chobe River Provides a Different Perspective on Wildlife Viewing Than a Traditional Land-Based Safari.
Gliding along the tranquil waters of the Chobe River, where Namibia and Botswana meet, I embarked on a safari experience unlike any other. Onboard the Chobe Princess houseboat, I had a front-row seat to one of Africa’s most spectacular wildlife displays – without even stepping onto land. The river offered a unique vantage point for the thriving activity on the riverbank. From magnificent elephants and watchful hippos to resting crocodiles and playful baboons, my two-night Chobe River Safari left me with unforgettable memories.
In this post, I share the highlights of my Chobe River safari, including how to reach the Chobe Princess, the best time to visit, and what makes this corner of Africa a must-see for wildlife enthusiasts. I hope this post inspires you to embark on your own Chobe River adventure.
About the Chobe River
The Chobe River begins in the mountains of Angola, flows through the neck of Namibia’s Caprivi Strip, forms the border between Namibia and Botswana, and then flows into the Zambezi River.
The Chobe River is the meeting point of four countries – Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia, and Zambia. Read on to learn why this created an interesting triple border crossing for me to reach my river cruise boat.
The Chobe River flows for 60 kilometres through Chobe National Park. It serves as a lifeline for a variety of animals, drawing them in for drinking, bathing, and resting. The riverfront is famous for seeing large herds of elephants and Cape Buffalo, pods of hippos, lions, crocodiles, and many bird species.
Zambezi Queen Collection’s houseboats officially cruise on the Namibian side of the Chobe River. However, because they are quite remote, the easiest access to them is from Kasane in Botswana.
I travelled to the Chobe Princess from Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. I arrived in and/or left three countries in the space of one and a half hours: I left Zimbabwe, arrived in Botswana, left Botswana, and arrived in Namibia! Each border crossing required queuing for immigration, filling out forms, and paying for visas. I did wonder if I would have enough pages in my passport to accommodate all the stamps.
After crossing the border from Zimbabwe into Botswana, I was driven into Kasane to cross the border from Botswana to Namibia. Upon exiting Botswanan immigration, a Chobe Princess crew member took me by speed boat to Namibia’s border control and immigration on Impalila Island. Alighting from the speed boat, I had to walk up a hill to get to the Namibian immigration office. Luckily, I could leave my bag with the crew member in the speed boat! At one point, with the immigration building in sight, there was a sign that read, “Take a deep breath, you’re almost there”. At the gate to the immigration building’s enclosure, there was another sign, “Congratulations, you’ve made it”. I later learned that a Chobe Princess manager was responsible for the signs – to make the slog up the hill more bearable!
Having completed all my border crossings, we sped down the Chobe River for about half an hour to meet up with the Chobe Princess, which didn’t stop for me to board. But it was cruising very slowly, so I was able to transfer from the speed boat to the houseboat without mishap.
About the Chobe Princess houseboat
The Zambezi Queen Collection has a fleet of houseboats cruising the Chobe River – the luxury Zambezi Queen and three Chobe Princesses.
Two moored Chobe Princess houseboats. I took this photo from the third Chobe Princess.
I cruised the Chobe River on the larger (five-cabin) Chobe Princess. My two-night package included all meals, soft drinks and water, local beers and wines, teas and coffee, and morning and afternoon river safaris (water-based game viewing).
I only took a two-night cruise instead of three nights because I had made a last-minute booking. I would have preferred a three-night cruise as I was sad to say goodbye to the Chobe River and my unique wildlife experience.
The houseboat looked tired and could have used some updating. (I understand the Chobe Princess houseboats have recently been upgraded.) My standard cabin was big enough for a king-sized bed, but that was all, and I couldn’t turn around in the bathroom. The electricity struggled and kept cutting out, which meant the cabin never really cooled down, and batteries took forever to charge. The meals were hit and miss, ranging from okay to delicious. However, none of this detracted from my wonderful cruising and game-viewing experiences, and the service was excellent.
The Chobe Princess offered an informal, relaxed, and intimate river cruise with a unique game-viewing experience. It traversed the Chobe River along the banks of Botswana’s Chobe National Park. How far you travel on the river will depend on water levels, as houseboats can get stuck if the river is too low. However, you travel further up and down the river on the Chobe Princess’ safari boat – a small open aluminium boat with an outboard motor (known as a tinnie in Australia).
My African river safari
While the Chobe Princess operates from the Namibian side of the Chobe River, I am sure we were more often in Botswana than Namibia when motoring up and down the river in the safari boat when viewing wildlife from the water!
Game viewing from the river offers a truly unique wildlife safari perspective.
What I learned and saw:
Elephants can’t swim. When they cross the river, they are walking on the riverbed. A baby elephant will hang onto their mother’s tail, and auntie comes behind, lifting the baby every so often for its trunk to go out of the water so it can breathe. It’s funny watching these little trunks and nothing else appear above the water. Something you won’t see on a land safari!
Elephants cross the Chobe River.
I saw a baby elephant drinking from the river with its mouth instead of its trunk. I learned that baby elephants cannot use their trunks until three months old.
This baby elephant drinks with his mouth as he hasn’t learned to use his trunk.
I watched a baby elephant flapping its trunk around because it didn’t know what it was for or how to use it.
I saw elephants lying down with other elephants standing in a circle around them, guarding them. When I saw this for the first time, I asked my river safari guide if the elephant was lying down because it was giving birth or was sick and dying. I was assured the elephant was just resting. I later saw several elephants being guarded while lying down, so I had to believe my guide when he said they were just resting and not sick.
Elephants protect resting herd members.
Elephants stand guard over a sleeping baby.
I laughed as I watched a baby elephant make five attempts to get up a tricky part of the riverbank before succeeding.
I watched two juvenile male elephants playing at aggression.
Cape Buffalos look like a storybook Heidi, with a big bone across their foreheads and turned-up horns like pigtails.
A Cape Buffalo.
The hippopotamus is the most dangerous land animal in Africa, killing about 500 people per year. They are massive, fiercely territorial, aggressive, agile in and out of the water, have long sharp teeth in a huge jaw, and can run up to 30 kilometres an hour on land. So, you can understand why hippos are such a fearsome animal to encounter!
A hippo heads for the river.
Hippos don’t poop on land. They poop in the water and use their tails to fling it as far as up to ten metres away.
A hippo pooping in the water and flicking it around.
Crocodiles were resting on the riverbank, and one was sitting on her eggs.
A crocodile rests on the riverbank.
A social group of baboons down by the river were feeding their young, eating, preening, and playing.
Baboons on the riverbank.
Waterbucks are easily distinguishable because of the ‘target’ (white ring) on their rump.
A waterbuck.
Giraffes must spread their front legs to drink or eat grass. This makes them highly vulnerable to predatory animals because they can’t get up quickly.
A giraffe spreads its legs to eat grass while another stands watch.
Why I recommend a Chobe River Safari on the Chobe Princess
A cruise on the Chobe River offers a unique wildlife safari experience that differs from traditional land safaris. Here are some compelling reasons why I recommend a multi-day Chobe River cruise:
Intimate and comfortable accommodation: The Chobe Princess is a small houseboat that accommodates a maximum of ten passengers. While my cabin was sufficient, the service was personalised, the sundeck was furnished with comfortable lounges, and the cruising was relaxed.
Abundant wildlife: The Chobe River is known for its dense wildlife population, especially during the dry season when animals amass along the riverbanks. You can spot elephants, hippos, crocodiles, buffalo, and various bird species. Since the river provides a natural water source, it’s a prime location to observe animals in their natural habitat, often at close range.
Convenient and comfortable game viewing: A river cruise offers a leisurely and comfortable way to see wildlife instead of driving around in a vehicle for hours. You can relax on the Chobe Princess’ sundeck with a drink while enjoying panoramic views as the boat drifts along the river.
Unique water-based perspective: Seeing animals from the water as you cruise along the Chobe River provides a different perspective on wildlife than a traditional land-based safari.
Where else would you get this wildlife perspective except on a Chobe River safari cruise?
Exclusive and peaceful: Being on the water, you escape the crowds and busy roads often found in popular safari parks. As such, you experience a quieter and more intimate encounter with nature, especially on a smaller vessel like the Chobe Princess.
It’s an adventure: Getting to the Chobe Princess (described earlier in this post) was an adventure I wouldn’t miss.
If you love wildlife and an unforgettable safari experience, a Chobe River cruise on the Chobe Princess is definitely worth considering.
A note on when to go
I cruised the Chobe River in early November when the dry season, described as “Lots of wildlife on the riverbanks”, had just ended. The dry season is a time when many animals gather around and stay close to the main water source, and you can watch them as you cruise by.
November is generally the start of the wet season. However, I experienced no rain and wildlife viewing along the riverbank was exceptional, especially for herds of elephants, pods of hippos, buffalo, crocodiles, and monkeys, which were drawn to the water.
My two-night wildlife safari cruise on the Chobe River was an unforgettable experience. The combination of the river’s natural beauty, the abundant wildlife, and the comfort of the Chobe River houseboat created a truly magical journey. If you seek a unique safari experience – one where the wildlife comes to you – this is it!
Whether you’re a seasoned traveller or a nature enthusiast, a safari cruise on the Chobe River promises an adventure like no other – one that I can’t recommend enough. The memories made during this trip will stay with me for a lifetime.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
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Exploring the Majestic Victoria Falls: A Journey Through Nature’s Masterpiece. Standing on the edge of one of the world’s most awe-inspiring natural wonders, I found myself mesmerised by the…
Exploring the Majestic Victoria Falls: A Journey Through Nature’s Masterpiece.
Standing on the edge of one of the world’s most awe-inspiring natural wonders, I found myself mesmerised by the sheer power and beauty of Victoria Falls. Known locally as Mosi-oa-Tunya, meaning “The Smoke That Thunders”, this iconic waterfall straddles the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia, sending a torrent of water down a 108-metre drop that creates an unforgettable mist and roar.
During my visit, I experienced Victoria Falls from two incredible perspectives: walking along the escarpment on the Zimbabwean side and soaring above the Falls in a thrilling helicopter flight. Both vantage points offered unique views of this UNESCO World Heritage Site, and I’m excited to share the photos I captured and some fascinating facts about this natural marvel.
Interesting facts about Victoria Falls
Victoria Falls is a waterfall on Africa’s Zambezi River, located on the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. The Zambezi River is the fourth longest in Africa after the Nile, Congo, and Niger rivers.
Aerial view of the mighty Zambezi River near Victoria Falls.
David Livingston was a Scottish missionary and explorer. In 1855, he was the first European to discover the falls, which he named after Queen Victoria.
Victoria Falls is officially known as Mosi-oa-Tunya, meaning “The Smoke That Thunders” by the local Kalolo-Lozi people. This is an appropriate name, given that the ‘smoke’ (mist) from the Falls can be seen more than 20 kilometres away and sometimes up to 50 kilometres away.
Victoria Falls is the world’s greatest sheet of falling water, spanning about 1,708 metres wide and pouring 500 million litres of water (200 Olympic-sized swimming pools) every minute over the falls. The average plunge is 100 metres into the gorges below and 108 metres at the highest.
Victoria Falls comprises several waterfalls along its length: Devil’s Cataract, Main Falls (95 metres high), Horseshoe Falls (101 metres high), Rainbow Falls (the highest at 104 metres), and Eastern Cataract.
In several places along the escarpment walk, the roar from the water cascading down the sheer cliff wall is so loud it makes it difficult to hold a conversation.
Victoria Falls is among the most spectacular waterfalls in the world, making it a popular tourist destination. For me, it is second only to Iguazu Falls on the border of Argentina and Brazil.
Around two-thirds of Victoria Falls is situated on the Zimbabwean side, with more viewpoints accessible. As the Zimbabwean side is slightly lower than the Zambian side, water still flows during the dry season even when the Zambian side has completely dried up.
You can swim at Victoria Falls, in Devil’s Pool on the Zambian side of the Falls. Devil’s Pool is a deep natural rock pool created by thousands of years of erosion. It is literally right on the edge of Victoria Falls and accessible from Livingston Island.
Victoria Falls is one of the seven Natural Wonders of the World and was designated UNESCO World Heritage in 1989 for its outstanding universal value.
I witnessed the power of Victoria Falls on a walk around the escarpment on the Zimbabwean side and from a helicopter flight providing aerial views of both sides of the falls.
Visit Victoria Falls on foot
The Victoria Falls Walk is a three-kilometre round trip along the escarpment opposite the Falls on the Zimbabwean side and back through the rainforest. It offers spectacular views of all five of Victoria Falls’ waterfalls from about 15 vantage points. It is generally an easy walk, but the mist makes some areas slippery.
I opted for a guided walking tour of Victoria Falls because I wanted to learn as much as possible about this magnificent landmark and the rainforest in which it is situated. I did the morning walk, which took about two hours, and I was back at my hotel before the day’s heat became unbearable.
Devil’s Cataract, Victoria Falls.
Main Falls (95 metres high), Victoria Falls.
The mist rising from Victoria Falls’ cascading water almost hides the Falls.
People swimming in Devil’s Pool on the edge of Victoria Falls in the Zambian side.
The powerful force of Victoria Falls is seen in the amount of water thundering down the cliff into the gorge below.
See Victoria Falls from a helicopter
My 13-minute flight over Victoria Falls was my first experience in a helicopter. I sat in the front with the pilot. The floor in this section was glass, and I could see the ground between my feet. Taking off was a weird feeling – like going up in a high-speed lift while being able to see the ‘lift’ rising.
I loved the helicopter flight’s different perspective of Victoria Falls, but I found the Falls to be more spectacular and powerful from the ground. You be the judge!
Aerial view of Victoria Falls
View of Victoria Falls captured from a helicopter.
A rainbow forms over Victoria Falls.
Aerial view of Victoria Falls and the river below.
A note on protecting your camera from spray
Walking along the escarpment, you and your camera will get wet from the spray spewed up by the sheer volume of water crashing down the cliff face to the floor below.
Whether or not you keep yourself dry is up to you. But it is essential to keep your camera dry if you want it to continue working.
I have a DSLR camera and have tried two different professional ‘raincoats’ for my camera. Each time, I revert to my tried and tested method of a plastic bag.
I attach the lens hood to the camera to provide some protection for the lens glass and filters.
Using a wide plastic bag that is longer than my camera body and extended lens, I make a hole in the bottom of the bag.
I slip the lens through the hole and secure the plastic bag to the lens with a rubber band.
Pulling the plastic bag up over the camera keeps it dry. I have good access to all the dials, can see through the viewfinder and the back of the camera, and have plenty of room for my hands. And the lens can still be extended and retracted!
DIY camera raincoat – attaching the plastic bag.
DIY camera raincoat – covering the camera.
DIY camera raincoat – accessing the dials, viewfinder, and back of the camera while completely covered.
My experience with professional camera raincoats is opposite to that of my plastic bag. They were restrictive, with poor visibility through their plastic window, and provided limited space for my hands.
I also carry a microfibre cloth to wipe the water droplets off the lens glass.
Where I stayed
While visiting Victoria Falls, I stayed at Ilala Lodge in the Zimbabwean town of Victoria Falls.
Ilala Lodge is a luxury, family-run hotel set in landscaped gardens. It is the closest hotel to the magnificent Victoria Falls, and I could clearly see the mist rising from the Falls from my room. The hotel is within easy walking distance to the town’s souvenir shops, supermarket, and other amenities.
With 73 spacious, well-appointed rooms, Ilala Lodge is a large hotel but feels and looks more like a boutique safari lodge with its thatched roofs and wildlife roaming free and eating the manicured lawns.
The meals at Ilala Lodge’s Cassia Restaurant (formerly the Palm Restaurant), which serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, were varied and delicious – a fine dining treat. I’m hooked on their iced coffees. Expect to pay Australian city prices for food and drinks.
The service throughout the hotel was excellent, with friendly, efficient, welcoming, and informative staff. The nightly jar of biscuits left by housekeeping when they turned my bed down was an appreciated treat.
I recommend staying at Ilala Lodge when visiting Victoria Falls.
Victoria Falls is more than just a destination – it’s a sensory experience that leaves a permanent mark. Whether standing at the edge of the escarpment, feeling the mist on your skin, or soaring above in a helicopter, marvelling at the thunderous beauty from the sky, it’s impossible not to be awestruck by the majesty of the Falls. This natural wonder invites exploration, from the raw power of the water to the surrounding landscapes. My time at Victoria Falls was nothing short of magical, and I hope these photos and insights inspire you to witness Mosi-oa-Tunya for yourself.
If you plan a trip to Southern Africa, I highly recommend adding Victoria Falls to your itinerary. It’s an experience that will stay with you for a lifetime.
Editor’s Note: I originally published this blog post in June 2019 and have updated it for accuracy, comprehensiveness, and relevance.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and unsponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
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