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Africa Destinations Reviews Senegal Travel Tips, Info and Resources

A UNIQUE DAY TRIP: The Haunting Memory of Gorée Island, Senegal

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This Tiny Island in Senegal Tells a Story the World Must Never Forget   I spent two fabulous weeks in Senegal, West Africa, experiencing as much as possible on a…

This Tiny Island in Senegal Tells a Story the World Must Never Forget

 

I spent two fabulous weeks in Senegal, West Africa, experiencing as much as possible on a private tour with my guide, Serigne, and driver, Pap, based on an itinerary I developed in consultation with Native Eye Travel. It was a memorable trip with many highlights, including museums in Dakar, Lac Rose (Pink Lake), Fadiouth Island (built on clamshells), Bandia Wildlife Reserve, and more. However, my day trip to Gorée Island was the most poignant. 

Just a short ferry ride from Dakar, Gorée Island presents a charming exterior with its pastel facades and narrow alleys while holding a deep history of centuries of pain, resistance, and remembrance. It offers an experience that is both enchanting and emotional. 

As I walked through cells once used to imprison enslaved people on Gorée Island and stood before the Door of No Return, I reflected on the lives forever changed by the transatlantic slave trade. This post shares what I discovered on Gorée Island – what to see, how to get there, and, most importantly, why this tiny island left such a lasting impression.

 

About Gorée Island

Gorée Island lies three kilometres off the coast of Senegal, directly across from Dakar. While it is a small island – approximately 900 metres long and 350 metres wide – its historical significance far outweighs its size.

Discovered by the Portuguese in the 15th century, the island was successively ruled by the Portuguese, Dutch, English, and French from the 15th to the 19th century, using Gorée Island as a strategic trading post.

From 1536 to 1848 (when the French abolished slavery), Gorée Island was active in the transatlantic slave trade, particularly under French control. The island served as a major holding and embarkation centre for enslaved Africans who were forcibly taken from West Africa and kept in cramped, dark cells while awaiting transport across the Atlantic to the Americas.

Gorée Island functioned as both a residential and commercial centre for European traders and a place of imprisonment for captured Africans. The island witnessed unimaginable human suffering, with many enslaved people dying before even setting foot on a ship.

While Gorée Island may not have experienced the highest volume of slave departures, its preserved structures and historical exhibits offer a tangible and solemn connection to this dark chapter of human history. The island has become a pilgrimage site, especially for Africans and African Americans seeking to reconnect with their roots.

In 1978, Gorée Island was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of its historical significance in the slave trade and its well-preserved colonial architecture.

How to Get to Gorée Island

Gorée Island is accessible only by boat. The easiest and cheapest way to get there is to take the direct Gorée Ferry from Dakar’s passenger terminal. Ferries depart every two hours, daily, from 7 am to midnight. Tickets are available at the terminal and cost about 5,000 CFA (approximately USD9) for a return trip. A passport is required to purchase a ticket and to board the ferry – a copy is not accepted.

The ferry ride takes 25-30 minutes. Arrive early to grab a seat on the upper deck for scenic views of Dakar and the approach to Gorée Island.

Colourful buildings line the foreshore of a small island with a hill behind.

Approaching Gorée Island, as viewed from the ferry.

 

Things to Do and See on Gorée Island

Gorée Island offers a unique blend of historical significance and natural beauty. Visit the House of Slaves, a poignant reminder of the island’s transatlantic slave trade, and stroll through the colourful, narrow streets. Admire the colonial architecture, explore the fortifications, and soak up the charming island atmosphere.

House of Slaves (Maison des Esclaves):

The House of Slaves with a view of the Door of No Return. Enslaved Africans were imprisoned in cells on the ground floor while the upper floor was the residence of the slave trader.

 

The House of Slaves was a slave-holding warehouse and is the island’s most sombre and emotionally powerful site. Built in 1776, this pink-hued building once served as one of the 28 prisons for enslaved Africans on Gorée Island before they were forced aboard ships bound for the Americas. It is now a museum and memorial to the victims of the transatlantic slave trade on Gorée Island – to those who never returned!

Native Eye Travel arranged a private tour of the House of Slaves for me with the Head Curator, and the museum was closed for the duration of my tour.

Inside, narrow corridors led to dark, airless holding cells where men, women, and children were imprisoned separately. Some of these spaces were no larger than a closet, and the living conditions of the enslaved people were atrocious. Families were separated, and children were held away from their mothers. They spent days chained and shackled to the floor, unable to move, and only set free once a day to eat and relieve themselves. Young girls, confined separately from the other women, were particularly vulnerable to sexual exploitation.

However, the most haunting feature of the House of Slaves was the Door of No Return. This small seaside doorway marked the last point of contact for enslaved individuals with their homeland. Standing in its shadow, I felt the weight of history pressing down on me. Its symbolic and emotional significance was immense. I found myself motionless, initially unable to photograph what I saw, as I needed to acknowledge the pain that the Door of No Return symbolised.

The House of Slaves: The Door of No Return. Through this door, enslaved men, women, and children stepped from their homeland onto a waiting ship that would transport them to the Americas.

 

I truly appreciated my private tour, as having other people moving in and out of the cells and around the Door of No Return would have diminished my emotional experience. The House of Slaves was more than a museum; it was a portal to the collective trauma of a people torn from their roots and a powerful reminder of history.

The Statue of Liberation of Slaves is a powerful statue depicting a man and woman embracing as their chains are released. It is located near the House of Slaves. (Sculptors: Mrs Jean and Christian Moisa)

 

A walking tour of the island:

Beyond the House of Slaves, the island beckons for quiet exploration. Serigne led me through leafy alleyways, past colourful colonial architecture adorned with wrought-iron balconies and crumbling walls held together by bougainvillea.

We walked past open-air art galleries on our way to the highest point of Gorée Island, called the ‘castle’ even though no castle exists. However, two large cannons installed by the French during the Second World War dominate the hill.

These two French cannons were strategically positioned on Gorée Island’s highest point.

 

Lastly, Serigne took me to the Historical Museum of Senegal in Gorée, located in the former Fort d’Estrées, which the French built between 1852 and 1856. The museum presents the general history of Senegal and the more specific history of Gorée Island. Its layout follows a circular route divided into 13 rooms, covering periods from the Paleolithic Age to the slave trade and independence.

An old stone fort sits on the ocean bank of an island.

The former Fort d’Estrées, which now houses the Historical Museum.

 

Having previously visited two excellent museums in Dakar, I found the Gorée Historical Museum relatively uninteresting and neglected. Although all the information about the museum’s exhibits was written in French, this was not an issue, as Serigne was happy to translate for me, as he had done in the museums we visited in Dakar.

Gorée Island was full of contrasts – beauty, serenity, sadness, and suffering.

Where to eat:

Serigne and I lunched on the seafront at the Hostellerie du Chevalier de Boufflers. Shaded by large umbrellas, I ate lunch while looking out over the quiet harbour. My meal consisted of chicken with onion sauce and rice – a delicious traditional Senegalese dish.

A red-coloured, two story building with blue window shutters.

Lunch at Hostellerie du Chevalier de Boufflers offers uninterrupted views of Gorée Island’s harbour and serves a great traditional Senegalese chicken dish with onion sauce and rice.

 

Tips for Visiting

  • French is the official language of Senegal, but Wolof is the most widely spoken. English is not commonly spoken, and I was hard-pressed to get by in Senegal with my schoolgirl French. Luckily, Serigne spoke excellent English and was happy to translate whenever needed. I found using Google Translate to be an exasperating experience, especially when translating menus with my camera. I was never sure what I was ordering!
  • A day trip to Gorée Island is all you need. I spent five hours on the island and saw everything there was to see, except for the Museum of the Sea and the Women’s Museum.
  • Gorée Island is car-free and has cobblestone streets. It may be tiny, but you will do a lot of walking, so comfortable shoes are essential.
  • Remember, you need a valid passport to travel to Gorée Island from Dakar. You cannot purchase a ferry ticket without one.
  • The House of Slaves is open Tuesday through Sunday and closed on Mondays. Its hours are 10.30 am to 12.00 pm and 3.00 pm to 6.00 pm.
  • The Historical Museum of Senegal in Gorée is open Tuesday through Sunday and closed on Mondays. Its hours are from 10.30 am to 4.30 pm.
  • Do you truly want to understand the history of Gorée Island, rather than merely wandering the streets? I recommend arranging a guided tour from Dakar with a reputable travel agency, such as Viator or Get Your Guide (both of which I have successfully used in the past). Alternatively, you can arrive on Gorée Island and choose one of the guides who meet the ferry.

Reflecting on my Experience

Visiting Gorée Island was not just another travel experience but a journey through history and humanity. It reminded me of the importance of confronting the past, no matter how painful, and honouring those whose lives were shaped by it.

Walking through the corridors that were once filled with unimaginable suffering was a sobering experience. But there was also hope in the quiet determination to remember and never forget.

Last view of the Door of No Return (in the red building) as I leave Gorée Island on the ferry for Dakar.

 

A visit to Gorée Island is more than just a day trip; it’s a powerful encounter with history. It invites you to slow down, listen, and reflect. While the island’s beauty is undeniable, the emotional weight of its past lingers long after the ferry ride back to Dakar.

Gorée Island reminds us of humanity’s capacity for cruelty but also of its resilience and the importance of remembering. If travelling through Senegal, set aside a day for Gorée Island. It’s not just about sightseeing – it’s about bearing witness. Gorée Island doesn’t just tell a story – it asks you to carry it with you.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2025.

 

Have you visited Gorée Island or another historic site that left a deep impression on you? I’d love to hear your thoughts.

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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An image with two photos - colourful buildings lining the ocean shore and a statue of a man and women embracing while showing broken chains.

An image with two photos - a stone cell with dirt floor and an alleyway with plants and flowers.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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© Just Me Travel 2018-2025. All rights reserved.

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Africa Destinations Ghana Reviews

STAY AT LUXURY ZAINA LODGE IN GHANA FOR AMAZING WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS

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Safari in Mole National Park at Zaina Lodge – Ghana’s Greatest Secret Now Expose.   Nestled within the heart of Ghana’s largest wildlife reserve, Mole National Park, Zaina Lodge offers…

Safari in Mole National Park at Zaina Lodge – Ghana’s Greatest Secret Now Expose.

 

Nestled within the heart of Ghana’s largest wildlife reserve, Mole National Park, Zaina Lodge offers a luxurious safari experience that blends comfort with adventure. This secluded retreat invites nature lovers to immerse themselves in the sights and sounds of the African wilderness. From its elevated vantage point, Zaina Lodge provides breathtaking views of the Park’s vast savannah and the chance to witness wildlife up close.

In this post, I’ll share my journey to this hidden gem, guide you through Mole National Park’s diverse wildlife, and give you a glimpse into the exceptional accommodations and experiences at Zaina Lodge. Accompanied by my own photos from this unforgettable adventure, get ready to be transported to a world of magic where nature and luxury coexist in harmony.

 

Forget the chocolate, which Ghana is famed for. Instead, go on a wildlife safari in Mole National Park (pronounced ‘mole-ah’) and stay in a luxury safari lodge.

When preparing for my West Africa trip, I came across Mole National Park and Zaina Lodge in my research. As a lover of safaris, wild animals, game drives, and luxury, I did not hesitate to add Mole National Park to my itinerary.

After a hectic small group trip through West Africa’s Togo, Benin and Ghana, I took myself to north-western Ghana for rest and recreation at Zaina Lodge in Mole National Park. The effort of getting there was so worth it, and it enabled me to re-energise before heading to Senegal for a month.

About Mole National Park Ghana

Mole National Park (pronounced ‘Moh-lay’) was established in 1958 and was the first Protected Area in Ghana. Located in northwest Ghana, it is the largest game reserve in Ghana, covering an area of 4,912 square kilometres and comprising savannah and forest habitats. The park has the widest range of wildlife in Ghana and is the only place in Ghana where you can experience elephants in the wild.

Mole National Park is rich in biodiversity and home to over 90 mammal species, including five primate species. Species of special interest include elephants, buffalo, Kob, Western Hartebeest, Roan Antelope, Defassa Waterbuck, Oribi, Bohor Reedbuck and Red-flanked Duiker. Rare and endangered species include the Yellow-backed Duiker, Black and White Colobus Monkey, leopard and lion. The park is also home to 334 bird species, 33 reptiles, nine amphibian species, and some 120 butterfly species.

Mole National Park has the most viable elephant population in Ghana (about 400) and is, as such, a hotspot for elephant conservation. It is also said that the park has a unique breed of elephants that are not hostile, aggressive, or insecure compared to other elephant populations in the rest of Africa. As such, it is one of few parks that allows visitors to approach the world’s largest land animal on foot. You can arrange for an armed ranger to join you in your own 4WD, but you are not allowed to explore Mole National Park unaccompanied.

In 2020, UNESCO included Mole National Park on its World Heritage Tentative List.

Getting to Zaina Lodge in Mole National Park

There are three ways to get to Mole National Park – plane, car, and bus.

I took the quickest option and flew from Accra, Ghan’s capital, to Tamale in the north. The flight took one hour. I had a pre-arranged transfer from Tamale Airport to Zaina Lodge – a drive of about 180 kilometres, taking approximately two and a half hours.

The two-and-a-half-hour drive from Tamale to Zaina Lodge passed quickly as there was much to see, passing through numerous towns and villages. Also, the road was the best I had experienced in Ghana.

The drive from Accra to Mole National Park by private car or through a transfer agency takes about 10-11 hours, with a driving distance of approximately 690 kilometres.

The cheapest option is to take a bus from Accra to Wa and then a taxi or minibus from Wa to Mole National Park. Depending on your connection in Wa, the journey takes about ten hours.

Zaina Lodge Ghana: Accommodation and Wildlife in Mole National Park

Lounges and umbrellas surround a blue-tiled pool in front of a thatched building.

Zaina Lodge’s pool area at the main chalet.

 

Zaina Lodge is a luxury safari lodge located within Mole National Park with 24 large, spacious tented chalets facing two man-made waterholes. The tented chalets are on the top of an escarpment, which gave me an excellent view of the animals (mainly antelope and elephants) coming to drink at the waterholes.

The tented chalets are “framed with sustainably raised plantation teak”, including the porch, and finished with thatched roofs. Inside was pure luxury with a king-sized bed, television, desk and chair, terracotta floor tiles, and courtesy dressing gowns. The air-conditioned room featured a ceiling fan, in-room safe, minibar, and free WiFi. Behind the partial dividing wall (behind the bed) was the shower room, washroom, and toilet, with locally sourced shea butter soap. I knew I would be very comfortable for the next three nights!

A tented chalet with thatched roof and veranda on a stone base.

My tented chalet at Zaina Lodge Ghana.

 

 

Zaina Lodge offers three packages: Zaina Bed and Breakfast, Zaina Half Board, and Zaina Experience. I booked the Zaina Experience because it included all meals and a daily safari drive. I booked additional safari drives as one a day would not satisfy my desire to see as much wildlife as possible. At one point, I questioned if I really needed safari drives because elephants would walk through the unfenced camp. Hence, there was a safety requirement for being escorted by a ranger to our chalets after the night meal. One particularly large male elephant was interested in the running water in front of the lodge’s main entrance.

A closeup of an African elephant.

Who needs a walking safari when you meet this gentle giant every morning on your way to breakfast?

 

Zaina Lodge offers morning and afternoon safari drives, a morning walking safari, and a canoe safari. I was keen to do a walking safari but opted against it after being told it was too cold for the animals to appear. I never expected to hear that it was too cold in the mornings because the temperatures in the area (mid-January) were 37-39 degrees Celsius! After learning I would not see hippos but mainly birds, I decided not to include a canoe safari in my itinerary. [My sister would have loved that!]

In the end, I didn’t need to book a walking safari because, on two occasions, we left the safari jeep with our armed ranger to walk up close to (within a safe distance) one elephant partially concealed by the bush and another that was having a dust bath.

A lone elephant in the African savannah throws dust over itself.

An elephant gives itself a dust bath (natural sunscreen).

 

On our exciting safari drives, we had an armed ranger who doubled as our knowledgeable guide, sharing the names of the amazing animals we encountered. I spotted various types of antelope, playful monkeys, majestic elephants, inquisitive baboons, warthog families, crocodiles, and an incredible variety of birds, including some rare endangered species.

A gallery of some of the wildlife I saw on my Zaina Lodge safari drives in Mole National Park:
A lone antelope with white markings on its brown hide stands in the bush.

Northern Bushbuck

 

An antelope with brown hide and black face stands in the bush.

Roan Antelope

 

A brown-feathered hawkstand on green tufts of grass.

Hawk

 

A blue and brown coloured small birds stands on a branch.

Abyssinian Roller

 

A baby baboon cuddles up to its mother.

A mother baboon and baby.

 

Several African elephants cross a dirt road.

Elephants cross the road in front of us.

 

A common tradition on African safari drives is stopping mid-drive for a hot drink and snacks. I’ve had morning and afternoon tea in some of Africa’s most breathtaking places! On Zaina Lodge’s safari drives, our accompanying armed ranger would scout the area for animals before the driver served coffee, hot chocolate, tea, and biscuits.

A man prepares hot drinks and snaks on the bonnet of a jeep.

Our safari driver serves morning tea.

 

The evening meal wasn’t always served in the lodge’s restaurant. One night, staff had set up the dining tables under the stars around the pool. On another occasion, dinner was a bar-b-que in a kraal (a fenced enclosure – usually made from dry, interwoven tree branches – to protect from predators).

After a month of travelling through West Africa and another month before heading home, I was ready for a massage. Thankfully, Zaina Lodge has an on-site wellness spa offering guests a host of massage therapies. I was pampered with a 30-minute foot massage and exfoliation treatment and a 45-minute back, shoulder, and head massage. I found the whole experience very relaxing.

I highly recommend Zaina Lodge. It is a beautiful setting to rest and relax while the attentive staff care for your needs (and wants!). I could go on as many game drives as I wanted, sleep in between, get a massage, or swim. In the mornings, all I could hear was bird song. It was so peaceful!

I found an email I sent to my family after leaving Mole National Park that best sums up my experience:

Zaina Lodge in Mole National Park was a fabulous experience, and I am so glad I included it in my itinerary. It was luxury accommodation with good food and attentive staff. I took four game drives, two of which included a bit of a walk as the ranger (armed) had seen elephant tracks, and we headed out of the vehicle to find them. I saw lots of elephants and other wildlife, ate too much, and felt very relaxed.

When To Go

Mole National Park has a tropical climate with a wet and dry season and warm temperatures year-round, with an average temperature of about 28 degrees Celsius.

The best time to visit Mole National Park to see wildlife is during the dry season, November to March, when animals gather around waterholes to drink. However, the dry harmattan winds can blow between December and February, bringing dusty, hazy weather.

The dry African savannah changes to lush vegetation during the rainy season, usually from April to October.

 

Zaina Lodge is more than just a place to stay – it’s an immersive safari experience that leaves a lasting impression. Whether exploring the park on a thrilling safari or relaxing in the comfort of a tented chalet, every moment is an opportunity to connect with nature. My stay at Zaina Lodge was unforgettable, filled with awe-inspiring wildlife encounters and serene moments overlooking the savannah.

If you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-path safari experience with a blend of comfort, luxury, and adventure, Zaina Lodge in Mole National Park is the perfect destination.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2024.

 

Where was your favourite wildlife safari experience?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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The image has two photos - a bed, table and chair inside a luxury tent and a closeup of an African elephant.

The image has two photos - a small, blue and brown bird stand on a tree branch and an anteleope with brown hide and white markings on its back and sides.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

Sign up to receive the latest in travel destinations, topics, resources and guides.

 

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An image with three photos: the interior of a luxury tent, a leopard hanging over a branch in a tree, and reeds silhouetted against the setting sun.A WILDLIFE SAFARI ADVENTURE AT SANCTUARY STANLEY’S CAMP, OKAVANGO DELTA. Read my honest review on a safari camp in Botswana where luxury glamping meets unforgettable wildlife encounters.

 

 

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Africa Destinations Reviews River Cruises

UNIQUE AFRICAN RIVER SAFARI – The Perfect Chobe River Boat Cruise

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Cruising Along the Chobe River Provides a Different Perspective on Wildlife Viewing Than a Traditional Land-Based Safari.   Gliding along the tranquil waters of the Chobe River, where Namibia and…

Cruising Along the Chobe River Provides a Different Perspective on Wildlife Viewing Than a Traditional Land-Based Safari.

 

Gliding along the tranquil waters of the Chobe River, where Namibia and Botswana meet, I embarked on a safari experience unlike any other. Onboard the Chobe Princess houseboat, I had a front-row seat to one of Africa’s most spectacular wildlife displays – without even stepping onto land. The river offered a unique vantage point for the thriving activity on the riverbank. From magnificent elephants and watchful hippos to resting crocodiles and playful baboons, my two-night Chobe River Safari left me with unforgettable memories. 

In this post, I share the highlights of my Chobe River safari, including how to reach the Chobe Princess, the best time to visit, and what makes this corner of Africa a must-see for wildlife enthusiasts. I hope this post inspires you to embark on your own Chobe River adventure.

 

About the Chobe River

The Chobe River begins in the mountains of Angola, flows through the neck of Namibia’s Caprivi Strip, forms the border between Namibia and Botswana, and then flows into the Zambezi River.

The Chobe River is the meeting point of four countries – Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia, and Zambia. Read on to learn why this created an interesting triple border crossing for me to reach my river cruise boat.

The Chobe River flows for 60 kilometres through Chobe National Park. It serves as a lifeline for a variety of animals, drawing them in for drinking, bathing, and resting. The riverfront is famous for seeing large herds of elephants and Cape Buffalo, pods of hippos, lions, crocodiles, and many bird species.

I cruised the Chobe River with the Zambezi Queen Collection on the Chobe Princess houseboat.

Getting there

Zambezi Queen Collection’s houseboats officially cruise on the Namibian side of the Chobe River. However, because they are quite remote, the easiest access to them is from Kasane in Botswana.

I travelled to the Chobe Princess from Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. I arrived in and/or left three countries in the space of one and a half hours: I left Zimbabwe, arrived in Botswana, left Botswana, and arrived in Namibia! Each border crossing required queuing for immigration, filling out forms, and paying for visas. I did wonder if I would have enough pages in my passport to accommodate all the stamps.

After crossing the border from Zimbabwe into Botswana, I was driven into Kasane to cross the border from Botswana to Namibia. Upon exiting Botswanan immigration, a Chobe Princess crew member took me by speed boat to Namibia’s border control and immigration on Impalila Island. Alighting from the speed boat, I had to walk up a hill to get to the Namibian immigration office. Luckily, I could leave my bag with the crew member in the speed boat! At one point, with the immigration building in sight, there was a sign that read, “Take a deep breath, you’re almost there”. At the gate to the immigration building’s enclosure, there was another sign, “Congratulations, you’ve made it”. I later learned that a Chobe Princess manager was responsible for the signs – to make the slog up the hill more bearable!

Having completed all my border crossings, we sped down the Chobe River for about half an hour to meet up with the Chobe Princess, which didn’t stop for me to board. But it was cruising very slowly, so I was able to transfer from the speed boat to the houseboat without mishap.

About the Chobe Princess houseboat

The Zambezi Queen Collection has a fleet of houseboats cruising the Chobe River – the luxury Zambezi Queen and three Chobe Princesses.

Two houseboats are moored to the riverbank.

Two moored Chobe Princess houseboats. I took this photo from the third Chobe Princess.

 

I cruised the Chobe River on the larger (five-cabin) Chobe Princess. My two-night package included all meals, soft drinks and water, local beers and wines, teas and coffee, and morning and afternoon river safaris (water-based game viewing).

I only took a two-night cruise instead of three nights because I had made a last-minute booking. I would have preferred a three-night cruise as I was sad to say goodbye to the Chobe River and my unique wildlife experience.

The houseboat looked tired and could have used some updating. (I understand the Chobe Princess houseboats have recently been upgraded.) My standard cabin was big enough for a king-sized bed, but that was all, and I couldn’t turn around in the bathroom. The electricity struggled and kept cutting out, which meant the cabin never really cooled down, and batteries took forever to charge. The meals were hit and miss, ranging from okay to delicious. However, none of this detracted from my wonderful cruising and game-viewing experiences, and the service was excellent.

The Chobe Princess offered an informal, relaxed, and intimate river cruise with a unique game-viewing experience. It traversed the Chobe River along the banks of Botswana’s Chobe National Park. How far you travel on the river will depend on water levels, as houseboats can get stuck if the river is too low. However, you travel further up and down the river on the Chobe Princess’ safari boat – a small open aluminium boat with an outboard motor (known as a tinnie in Australia).

My African river safari

While the Chobe Princess operates from the Namibian side of the Chobe River, I am sure we were more often in Botswana than Namibia when motoring up and down the river in the safari boat when viewing wildlife from the water!

Game viewing from the river offers a truly unique wildlife safari perspective.

What I learned and saw:

  • Elephants can’t swim. When they cross the river, they are walking on the riverbed. A baby elephant will hang onto their mother’s tail, and auntie comes behind, lifting the baby every so often for its trunk to go out of the water so it can breathe. It’s funny watching these little trunks and nothing else appear above the water. Something you won’t see on a land safari!
Only the trunks and tops of heads can be seen of these elephants crossing a river.

Elephants cross the Chobe River.

 

  • I saw a baby elephant drinking from the river with its mouth instead of its trunk. I learned that baby elephants cannot use their trunks until three months old.
Elephants stand in the river by the bank drinking from the river. A baby elephant is drinking with its mouth and not its trunk.

This baby elephant drinks with his mouth as he hasn’t learned to use his trunk.

 

  • I watched a baby elephant flapping its trunk around because it didn’t know what it was for or how to use it.
  • I saw elephants lying down with other elephants standing in a circle around them, guarding them. When I saw this for the first time, I asked my river safari guide if the elephant was lying down because it was giving birth or was sick and dying. I was assured the elephant was just resting. I later saw several elephants being guarded while lying down, so I had to believe my guide when he said they were just resting and not sick.
Several elephants stand around three elephants lying on the ground.

Elephants protect resting herd members.

 

Several elephants stand around a baby elephant lying on the ground.

Elephants stand guard over a sleeping baby.

 

  • I laughed as I watched a baby elephant make five attempts to get up a tricky part of the riverbank before succeeding.
  • I watched two juvenile male elephants playing at aggression.
  • Cape Buffalos look like a storybook Heidi, with a big bone across their foreheads and turned-up horns like pigtails.
A head and neck closeup shot of a Cape Buffalo.

A Cape Buffalo.

 

  • The hippopotamus is the most dangerous land animal in Africa, killing about 500 people per year. They are massive, fiercely territorial, aggressive, agile in and out of the water, have long sharp teeth in a huge jaw, and can run up to 30 kilometres an hour on land. So, you can understand why hippos are such a fearsome animal to encounter!
A hippo is walking on the riverbank heading for the river.

A hippo heads for the river.

 

  • Hippos don’t poop on land. They poop in the water and use their tails to fling it as far as up to ten metres away.
A hippo stands in the water pooping and flicking it around with its tail.

A hippo pooping in the water and flicking it around.

 

  • Crocodiles were resting on the riverbank, and one was sitting on her eggs.
A closeup, side-on head shot of a crocodile with its eye open and mouth closed but still showing its sharp teeth.

A crocodile rests on the riverbank.

 

  • A social group of baboons down by the river were feeding their young, eating, preening, and playing.
Four baboons of various ages sitting on the ground. One is preening another and a baby is hanging onto its mother's arm.

Baboons on the riverbank.

 

  • Waterbucks are easily distinguishable because of the ‘target’ (white ring) on their rump.
A waterbuck is grazing on a grassy plain.

A waterbuck.

 

  • Giraffes must spread their front legs to drink or eat grass. This makes them highly vulnerable to predatory animals because they can’t get up quickly.
A photo of two giraffes. One has spread its legs to eat the grass while the other is stand close by.

A giraffe spreads its legs to eat grass while another stands watch.

 

Why I recommend a Chobe River Safari on the Chobe Princess

A cruise on the Chobe River offers a unique wildlife safari experience that differs from traditional land safaris. Here are some compelling reasons why I recommend a multi-day Chobe River cruise:

  • Intimate and comfortable accommodation: The Chobe Princess is a small houseboat that accommodates a maximum of ten passengers. While my cabin was sufficient, the service was personalised, the sundeck was furnished with comfortable lounges, and the cruising was relaxed.
  • Abundant wildlife: The Chobe River is known for its dense wildlife population, especially during the dry season when animals amass along the riverbanks. You can spot elephants, hippos, crocodiles, buffalo, and various bird species. Since the river provides a natural water source, it’s a prime location to observe animals in their natural habitat, often at close range.
  • Convenient and comfortable game viewing: A river cruise offers a leisurely and comfortable way to see wildlife instead of driving around in a vehicle for hours. You can relax on the Chobe Princess’ sundeck with a drink while enjoying panoramic views as the boat drifts along the river.
  • Unique water-based perspective: Seeing animals from the water as you cruise along the Chobe River provides a different perspective on wildlife than a traditional land-based safari.
An elephant walks along the riverbank while three hippos immerse themselves in the water.

Where else would you get this wildlife perspective except on a Chobe River safari cruise?

 

  • Exclusive and peaceful: Being on the water, you escape the crowds and busy roads often found in popular safari parks. As such, you experience a quieter and more intimate encounter with nature, especially on a smaller vessel like the Chobe Princess.
  • It’s an adventure: Getting to the Chobe Princess (described earlier in this post) was an adventure I wouldn’t miss.

If you love wildlife and an unforgettable safari experience, a Chobe River cruise on the Chobe Princess is definitely worth considering.

A note on when to go

I cruised the Chobe River in early November when the dry season, described as “Lots of wildlife on the riverbanks”, had just ended. The dry season is a time when many animals gather around and stay close to the main water source, and you can watch them as you cruise by.

November is generally the start of the wet season. However, I experienced no rain and wildlife viewing along the riverbank was exceptional, especially for herds of elephants, pods of hippos, buffalo, crocodiles, and monkeys, which were drawn to the water.

 

My two-night wildlife safari cruise on the Chobe River was an unforgettable experience. The combination of the river’s natural beauty, the abundant wildlife, and the comfort of the Chobe River houseboat created a truly magical journey. If you seek a unique safari experience – one where the wildlife comes to you – this is it! 

Whether you’re a seasoned traveller or a nature enthusiast, a safari cruise on the Chobe River promises an adventure like no other – one that I can’t recommend enough. The memories made during this trip will stay with me for a lifetime.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2024.

 

Where was your favourite river cruise?

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The image has two photos: a herd of elephants coming down to the river to drink and a closeup head shot of a Cape Buffalo.

The image has two photos: elephants crossing a river with only their trunks above water and a hippo walking towards the water.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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An image with three photos of a pool surrounded with lounge chairs and umbrellas, an elephant throwing dust over itself, and morning teas served on the bonnet of a jeep.STAY AT LUXURY ZAINA LODGE IN GHANA FOR AMAZING WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS. Looking for a unique African safari experience? Zaina Lodge is a luxury safari destination in Ghana’s Mole National Park. Explore how to get there, when to visit, and what makes Zaina Lodge stand out. Get inspired for your next journey!

 

 

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Africa Destinations Photo Stories Zimbabwe

SEE THE POWERFUL VICTORIA FALLS BY LAND AND AIR – My Photo Guide (2024 Updated)

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Exploring the Majestic Victoria Falls: A Journey Through Nature’s Masterpiece.   Standing on the edge of one of the world’s most awe-inspiring natural wonders, I found myself mesmerised by the…

Exploring the Majestic Victoria Falls: A Journey Through Nature’s Masterpiece.

 

Standing on the edge of one of the world’s most awe-inspiring natural wonders, I found myself mesmerised by the sheer power and beauty of Victoria Falls. Known locally as Mosi-oa-Tunya, meaning “The Smoke That Thunders”, this iconic waterfall straddles the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia, sending a torrent of water down a 108-metre drop that creates an unforgettable mist and roar.

During my visit, I experienced Victoria Falls from two incredible perspectives: walking along the escarpment on the Zimbabwean side and soaring above the Falls in a thrilling helicopter flight. Both vantage points offered unique views of this UNESCO World Heritage Site, and I’m excited to share the photos I captured and some fascinating facts about this natural marvel.

 

Interesting facts about Victoria Falls

  • Victoria Falls is a waterfall on Africa’s Zambezi River, located on the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. The Zambezi River is the fourth longest in Africa after the Nile, Congo, and Niger rivers.
A wide blue river with several tree-covered islands.

Aerial view of the mighty Zambezi River near Victoria Falls.

 

  • David Livingston was a Scottish missionary and explorer. In 1855, he was the first European to discover the falls, which he named after Queen Victoria.
  • Victoria Falls is officially known as Mosi-oa-Tunya, meaning “The Smoke That Thunders” by the local Kalolo-Lozi people. This is an appropriate name, given that the ‘smoke’ (mist) from the Falls can be seen more than 20 kilometres away and sometimes up to 50 kilometres away.
  • Victoria Falls is the world’s greatest sheet of falling water, spanning about 1,708 metres wide and pouring 500 million litres of water (200 Olympic-sized swimming pools) every minute over the falls. The average plunge is 100 metres into the gorges below and 108 metres at the highest.
  • Victoria Falls comprises several waterfalls along its length: Devil’s Cataract, Main Falls (95 metres high), Horseshoe Falls (101 metres high), Rainbow Falls (the highest at 104 metres), and Eastern Cataract.
  • In several places along the escarpment walk, the roar from the water cascading down the sheer cliff wall is so loud it makes it difficult to hold a conversation.
  • Victoria Falls is among the most spectacular waterfalls in the world, making it a popular tourist destination. For me, it is second only to Iguazu Falls on the border of Argentina and Brazil.
  • Around two-thirds of Victoria Falls is situated on the Zimbabwean side, with more viewpoints accessible. As the Zimbabwean side is slightly lower than the Zambian side, water still flows during the dry season even when the Zambian side has completely dried up.
  • You can swim at Victoria Falls, in Devil’s Pool on the Zambian side of the Falls. Devil’s Pool is a deep natural rock pool created by thousands of years of erosion. It is literally right on the edge of Victoria Falls and accessible from Livingston Island.
  • Victoria Falls is one of the seven Natural Wonders of the World and was designated UNESCO World Heritage in 1989 for its outstanding universal value.

I witnessed the power of Victoria Falls on a walk around the escarpment on the Zimbabwean side and from a helicopter flight providing aerial views of both sides of the falls.

Visit Victoria Falls on foot

The Victoria Falls Walk is a three-kilometre round trip along the escarpment opposite the Falls on the Zimbabwean side and back through the rainforest. It offers spectacular views of all five of Victoria Falls’ waterfalls from about 15 vantage points. It is generally an easy walk, but the mist makes some areas slippery.

I opted for a guided walking tour of Victoria Falls because I wanted to learn as much as possible about this magnificent landmark and the rainforest in which it is situated. I did the morning walk, which took about two hours, and I was back at my hotel before the day’s heat became unbearable.

A waterfall drops into a pool below.

Devil’s Cataract, Victoria Falls.

 

A wide sheet of water cascades down an escarpment, creating a waterfall.

Main Falls (95 metres high), Victoria Falls.

 

Mist rises from the volume of water cascading down an escarpment in to the river below, almost hiding the waterfall.

The mist rising from Victoria Falls’ cascading water almost hides the Falls.

 

Several people swimming in a natural rock pool on the ledge of a waterfall.

People swimming in Devil’s Pool on the edge of Victoria Falls in the Zambian side.

 

The massive volume of water in this waterfall highlights the power of the waterfall.

The powerful force of Victoria Falls is seen in the amount of water thundering down the cliff into the gorge below.

 

See Victoria Falls from a helicopter

My 13-minute flight over Victoria Falls was my first experience in a helicopter. I sat in the front with the pilot. The floor in this section was glass, and I could see the ground between my feet. Taking off was a weird feeling – like going up in a high-speed lift while being able to see the ‘lift’ rising.

I loved the helicopter flight’s different perspective of Victoria Falls, but I found the Falls to be more spectacular and powerful from the ground. You be the judge!

A wide waterfall cascades down the escarpment into a gorge with the river on one side and rainforest on the other side of the gorge.

Aerial view of Victoria Falls

 

An aerial view of a waterfall cascading down into a gorge, taken from a helicopter.

View of Victoria Falls captured from a helicopter.

 

A wide river flows over an escarpment forming a waterfall. The sun shinning on the cascading water creates a rainbow.

A rainbow forms over Victoria Falls.

 

An aerial view of a waterfall cascading down an escarpment to the river below.

Aerial view of Victoria Falls and the river below.

 

A note on protecting your camera from spray

Walking along the escarpment, you and your camera will get wet from the spray spewed up by the sheer volume of water crashing down the cliff face to the floor below.

Whether or not you keep yourself dry is up to you. But it is essential to keep your camera dry if you want it to continue working.

I have a DSLR camera and have tried two different professional ‘raincoats’ for my camera. Each time, I revert to my tried and tested method of a plastic bag.

  • I attach the lens hood to the camera to provide some protection for the lens glass and filters.
  • Using a wide plastic bag that is longer than my camera body and extended lens, I make a hole in the bottom of the bag.
  • I slip the lens through the hole and secure the plastic bag to the lens with a rubber band.
  • Pulling the plastic bag up over the camera keeps it dry. I have good access to all the dials, can see through the viewfinder and the back of the camera, and have plenty of room for my hands. And the lens can still be extended and retracted!

My experience with professional camera raincoats is opposite to that of my plastic bag. They were restrictive, with poor visibility through their plastic window, and provided limited space for my hands.

I also carry a microfibre cloth to wipe the water droplets off the lens glass.

Where I stayed

While visiting Victoria Falls, I stayed at Ilala Lodge in the Zimbabwean town of Victoria Falls.

Ilala Lodge is a luxury, family-run hotel set in landscaped gardens. It is the closest hotel to the magnificent Victoria Falls, and I could clearly see the mist rising from the Falls from my room. The hotel is within easy walking distance to the town’s souvenir shops, supermarket, and other amenities.

With 73 spacious, well-appointed rooms, Ilala Lodge is a large hotel but feels and looks more like a boutique safari lodge with its thatched roofs and wildlife roaming free and eating the manicured lawns.

The meals at Ilala Lodge’s Cassia Restaurant (formerly the Palm Restaurant), which serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, were varied and delicious – a fine dining treat. I’m hooked on their iced coffees. Expect to pay Australian city prices for food and drinks.

The service throughout the hotel was excellent, with friendly, efficient, welcoming, and informative staff. The nightly jar of biscuits left by housekeeping when they turned my bed down was an appreciated treat.

I recommend staying at Ilala Lodge when visiting Victoria Falls.

 

Victoria Falls is more than just a destination – it’s a sensory experience that leaves a permanent mark. Whether standing at the edge of the escarpment, feeling the mist on your skin, or soaring above in a helicopter, marvelling at the thunderous beauty from the sky, it’s impossible not to be awestruck by the majesty of the Falls. This natural wonder invites exploration, from the raw power of the water to the surrounding landscapes. My time at Victoria Falls was nothing short of magical, and I hope these photos and insights inspire you to witness Mosi-oa-Tunya for yourself.

If you plan a trip to Southern Africa, I highly recommend adding Victoria Falls to your itinerary. It’s an experience that will stay with you for a lifetime.

 

Editor’s Note: I originally published this blog post in June 2019 and have updated it for accuracy, comprehensiveness, and relevance.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and unsponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2024. All rights reserved.

 

Where in the world is your favourite waterfall?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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an image with two photos. One is of a waterfall cascading into the gorge below. The other photo is of people swimming in a rock pool on the edge of a waterfall.

An image with two photos of the waterfall cascading into a gorge taken from the land and from the air.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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An image with three photos: the interior of a luxury tent, a leopard hanging over a branch in a tree, and reeds silhouetted against the setting sun.A WILDLIFE SAFARI ADVENTURE AT SANCTUARY STANLEY’S CAMP, OKAVANGO DELTA. Read my honest review on a safari camp in Botswana where luxury glamping meets unforgettable wildlife encounters.

 

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© Just Me Travel 2018-2022. All rights reserved.

 

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Africa Botswana Destinations Reviews

A WILDLIFE SAFARI ADVENTURE AT SANCTUARY STANLEY’S CAMP, OKAVANGO DELTA

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Luxury Glamping Meets Unforgettable Wildlife Encounters in Botswana’s Okavango Delta: My Honest Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp Review.   Nestled in the heart of Botswana’s Okavango Delta, Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp offers an…

Luxury Glamping Meets Unforgettable Wildlife Encounters in Botswana’s Okavango Delta: My Honest Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp Review.

 

Nestled in the heart of Botswana’s Okavango Delta, Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp offers an exceptional safari experience where luxury and nature blend seamlessly. Glamping takes on a new meaning at this exclusive camp with spacious, beautifully appointed tents that provide the perfect blend of comfort and adventure. My time here was filled with exhilarating wildlife encounters during unforgettable game drives, where elephants, leopards, lions, giraffes, and other animals roamed freely. What truly sets Stanley’s Camp apart, though, is the personalised hospitality that made me feel like part of the family, ensuring an unforgettable stay in the African wilderness.

Join me as I unveil the charming appeal of this wilderness sanctuary and relive moments of wonder, awe, and connection with nature.

 

Sanctuary Retreats owns and operates luxury safari lodges and camps in Kenya, Botswana, Tanzania, Uganda, Zambia, and Namibia. Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp, named after the explorer Henry Stanley, is one of two Sanctuary Retreats’ camps in Botswana’s Okavango Delta.  It is in a large private concession on the southern tip of Chiefs Island and shares a border with the Moremi Game Reserve.

Stanley’s Camp is accessible by air. A flight from Maun takes about 15 minutes, and a flight from Kasane takes about 90 minutes. The camp itself is about a 20-minute drive from Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp’s private airstrip.

I flew to Maun in Botswana from Johannesburg in South Africa – a two-hour flight. For the first time in my extensive travels, check-in at Johannesburg Airport weighed my carry-on bag. Luckily, my two bags were under 20 kilograms when weighed together – the maximum limit for my light aircraft flights to and from Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp.

From Maun, I took a Mac Air flight to Stanley’s Camp. The plane was a six-seater – seven if you account for the pilot, and he probably should be included! The flight took ten minutes, and I had fantastic aerial views of the Okavango Delta.

Three of us got off the plane at Stanley’s Camp airstrip, which was simply hard, packed earth (like baked clay) but well maintained. At the airstrip, a Stanley’s Camp staff member met us in an open-sided 4X4 game drive vehicle. Before we could drive away, we had to wait for the plane to be airborne to ensure it took off okay.

About ten minutes from the airstrip, we stopped for a welcome ‘picnic’ in the bush, which included champagne, juice, soft drinks, and nibbles. I was grateful for the cold washer, and we were each given a water bottle with our name on it, which we were allowed to keep. These bush picnics would become a regular event over the next several days.

The advised 30-minute drive to the camp took 50 minutes, as we had to keep stopping to take photos of the elephants, giraffes, and wildebeest we encountered.

Arriving at the camp, the staff welcomed us with a song of greeting, a cold washer, and more drinks. In the meantime, the female staff (housekeeping) took our bags to our tents, carrying them on their heads. For my housekeeper, that was 12 kilos on her head! We had arrived at the camp in time for high tea (4.00 pm), which we had while checking in.

Check-in was more of a safety briefing:

  • We can walk around the camp on our own during the day but never at night.
  • Our guide must always escort us to and from our tent at night. Guests are allocated a group guide for the duration of their stay.
  • We must never use the pool at night.
  • Drink lots of water.

These safety precautions are necessary because wild animals – hyenas, monkeys, elephants, etc. – regularly enter the camp area.

After our safety briefing, a staff member showed me to my accommodation. The accommodation at Stanley’s Camp is glamping at its best. For those unfamiliar with the term ‘glamping’, it is a glamorous alternative to traditional camping. Stanley’s Camp has ten tents, all with views over the floodplains. ‘Tent’ does not adequately describe the accommodation. The tent is a luxurious, spacious room with a king-sized bed, an ensuite bathroom that doesn’t lack any facilities, and a large veranda with a daybed; it just has canvas for walls and roof. There’s no air conditioning, but the room has a ceiling fan and a standard misting fan, and the canvas walls roll up to allow the breeze to flow through.

A tent is furnished with a bed, mosquito netting, chairs, and des. The tent has a chair and travel bag on the porch.

Glamping at Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp. (Courtesy of Sanctuary Retreats’ Trade Image Library)

 

My housekeeper pointed out the essential facilities in the room:

  • Insect spray (called Doom – appropriate name!),
  • personal mosquito spray (called Peaceful Sleep – I hope so!),
  • torch,
  • alarm horn (to scare intruding predators away),
  • emergency radio (walkie-talkie – hope I don’t need that!), and
  • WiFi is only available in our tents.

After settling into my tent, I met my guide for a mokoro safari through the waterways of the Okavango Delta. A mokoro is a traditional canoe that is propelled through the water by standing in the stern and pushing with a pole. While lazing in the mokoro was very relaxing, I was disappointed with this activity as I saw nothing but water lilies and reeds. I am not sure what I expected, but a few water buffalo or birds would have made the experience more interesting. I needed to remind myself that wildlife sightings are, to a great extent, unpredictable. However, on the drive to the mokoros, we came across a leopard sitting under a tree and spent some time taking photos before he left the shade of the tree, checking us out as he left the area.

A leopard walks in the long grass as he faces the camera.

A leopard checks us out as he walks past our safari vehicle.

 

After the mokoro safari, drinks and nibbles were served in the bush by Stanley’s Camp staff before returning to camp.

Two men prepare tables of food beside a waterhole with trees behind them.

Stanley’s Camp staff set up our mokoro safari ‘picnic’.

 

Back at camp, there were more drinks and the essential cold washer before being escorted to my tent to get ready for dinner.

Later that evening, my guide escorted me to the central tent for dinner. The food was excellent, as too was the coffee. During dinner, staff informed us that the plan for the following morning would be a wake-up call at 5.15 am, breakfast at 6.00 am, and leave for a game drive at 6.30 am. I questioned how staff managed a wake-up call given there was no phone in our tents – thinking the call might come via the emergency radio. One of the other guests informed me that a ‘wake-up call’ meant tea or coffee brought to your tent by staff. Now that’s civilised!

At dinner, I was given a handmade reed bracelet with my name woven into it. Such a nice gesture!

In addition to having all our meals in the central tent, it proved to be an idyllic place to socialise with the other camp guests.

A tent is furnished with couches, chairs, a dining table and chairs, and a bar.

Stanley’s Camp central tent. (Courtesy of Sanctuary Retreats’ Trade Image Library)

 

I was sorely tested during my first night’s sleep, as I am sure I slept with every insect known to man. I sprayed myself in Peaceful Sleep and sprayed the bed in Doom, but it made no difference! And it was hot! I learned to encase my bed in the mosquito netting BEFORE leaving for the afternoon game drive.

On the morning of my first game drive, I was not only woken by my coffee wake-up call but also by several small monkeys making a racket in the trees outside my tent.

My Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp four-night package included accommodation, all meals, and game drives (morning and afternoon). I had come for the game drives, especially to see elephants and hippos, and I wasn’t disappointed. The excellent accommodation, delicious meals, and attentive staff hospitality were an added bonus – the icing on the cake!

On that first morning’s game drive, we saw so much wildlife. In the first hour, there were warthogs, buffalo, zebras, giraffes, impalas (easily distinguished from other antelope because of the black stripes on their rear end), and one lone bull elephant. There was no more wildlife for the next three-quarters of an hour, and I thought that was it. Then we came across a couple of saddle-billed storks, soon followed by a group of elephants. More wildlife quickly followed: different types of antelopes, four or five herds of elephants, a large flock of stocks fishing in a pool of water (different to those seen earlier), baboons, more warthogs, lots more buffalo, and cross it off my bucket list, a pod of hippos in a waterhole. The zebras had several foals in the herd, while the elephant herds had elephants of differing sizes (ages).

An image with four photos of African wildlife - a herd of elephants, hippos in the water with just their eyes visible, a herd of zebras, and impalas with their backs to the camera.

Wildlife seen on the morning game drive – elephants, hippos, zebras, and impala.

 

An image with two photos: three giraffes of differing sizes and a red-billed black and white stork.

Wildlife seen on the morning game drive – a giraffe family and a saddle-billed stork.

 

At 9.30 am, we stopped in a clearing in the bush for coffee/tea and muffins. There’s that picnic again! Always welcome after such an early breakfast.

Usually, a game drive lasts three hours, but this one lasted five hours as we had to take a couple of guests to the airstrip for their flight out of Stanley’s Camp. The plane had to abort its first attempt at landing because there were impalas on the airstrip. Once again, we waited for the plane to take off before continuing our game drive.

As I lay on my bed resting between lunch and high tea, I watched monkeys darting around outside my tent and heard antelope (at least I hoped it was antelope) munching on the grass on the other side of my canvas wall.

We spent most of the afternoon game drive looking for lions. Lion tracks could be seen, but there were no lions or any other wildlife, for that matter. However, after two hours of nothing, we came across impalas and giraffes, several warthogs (nature’s ugliest animal?), a lone wildebeest, kudus with their distinctive white stripes down their backs and pink colouring inside large ears, and a large herd of elephants (the largest I have seen so far).

An image of four photos: a baby elephant peeking out between two adult elephants, a warthog, an elephant up close, and a kudu.

Wildlife seen on our afternoon game drive – a baby elephant peeking out between two adult elephants, a warthog, an elephant up close, and a kudu.

 

As the sun lowered in the sky, a hippo suddenly emerged from the bushes and ran across in front of the vehicle. They can run very fast – no wonder hippos are Africa’s most dangerous animal, with the most human deaths attributed to them. When we rounded the corner of a clump of trees, there was a lagoon with many hippos in it. I was thrilled. Hippos and elephants were what I had come to Botswana for. We stopped by the lagoon for our game-drive coffee and snacks, which I barely had time to consume because I was taking so many photos of the hippos in the lagoon.

Several hippos are looking towards the camera while submerged in the water. One hippo has his mouth wide open.

A pod of hippos – seen on a game drive in the late afternoon.

 

Four hippos have just their heads above water while one of the hippos has his mouth wide open, exposing his teeth and jaw.

A male hippo shows his domination by displaying his teeth and jaw.

 

What I learned today:

  • The darker the patches on a giraffe, the older the giraffe. The giraffes seen this afternoon were very old according to the colour of their patches.
  • The patches on a giraffe are like human fingerprints – the patch patterns are unique to each giraffe, just like the stripes on zebras.
  • Wildebeests are herd animals; seeing one by itself means it is old and has been kicked out by the herd.

Back at camp, I bought a beautifully carved wooden hippo at the camp’s shop to celebrate seeing hippos in the wild. The staff wrapped it tighter than a sausage, binding it in sticky tape to protect it from damage. Customs in Australia will have a hard time opening it to check the wood.

We had dinner tonight under the stars, around the campfire. The sky is unhindered at Stanley’s Camp, and the night sky is a mass of stars.

My second morning’s game drive started with a wake-up call at 5.15 am and leaving camp at 6.00 am before breakfast. The early start was because we were driving to Moremi Game Reserve for our game drive. Since we missed breakfast, the staff had packed extra food for our mid-game drive picnic. So, instead of morning tea, we had brunch.

The game drive through Moremi Game Reserve was uneventful. However, we did see a couple of honey badgers, which is rare.

This day, lunch was not back at camp but was set up in the veld by staff who had brought everything from the kitchen. It was a lovely setting, with zebras roaming in the distance, and a unique experience.

I spent the afternoon reading on my veranda’s daybed while watching two elephants getting closer and closer to my tent.

I must admit that after a couple of days of breakfasts, lunches, dinners, game drive picnics, and high teas, I started skipping meals. We were fed so often at Stanley’s Camp that I just wasn’t hungry by the evening meal.

On my final game drive, I saw elephants, kudus, and heaps of impalas. But the highlight was photographing a leopard chilling out in the branches of a tree.

A leopard hangs over a tree branch with his feet and tail dangling down.

A leopard relaxes in a tree as he surveys his territory.

 

Why I recommend Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp

  1. The accommodation at Stanley’s Camp is glamping at its best. The ‘rooms’ are comfortable and beautifully fitted out, and they are an ideal place to relax and wind down after a game drive when you want time to yourself.
  1. Stanley’s Camp feels intimate, with only ten tents (‘rooms’).
  1. Your tent is situated on the edge of a vast, open plain (veld), offering an uninhibited view of wildlife roaming across it.
  1. The attention provided by the staff was individual and personalised. Having the same guide throughout my stay ensured my needs were met, even when they didn’t have to be! When I opted to forego an afternoon game drive for a rest, my guide arranged for high tea to be brought to my tent. I believe he went above and beyond – meeting my wants rather than my needs. I could not fault the staff and management.
  1. The game drive vehicles at Stanley’s Camp were open-sided, making spotting wildlife much easier. As Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp is on a private concession, we could get up close to animals (always when safe to do so).
  1. Staff care about your welfare. When I got sunburnt (pack the sunscreen!), a staff member phoned its sister camp in the Okavango Delta for sunscreen for me. Unfortunately, there was none to be had! We were travelling on dirt roads on game drives and could be tossed about in the vehicle. When going over particularly rough sections, our guide would turn around and ask if we were all still in the vehicle.
  1. Wherever I travel, I will always seek out high tea venues. When I booked Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp, I was unaware that high tea was included. That it was served every afternoon was a delightful bonus.

Ask yourself, why would you not stay at Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp? From a seasoned traveller and someone who lived in Namibia for several years, I highly recommend a wildlife safari holiday at Stanley’s Camp.

A note on when to go

I travelled to the Okavango Delta in early November. In hindsight, it was not the ideal time to go, as it was very hot and humid due to the late start of the wet season. There was no escaping the heat, something I usually thrive on. My guide told me the temperature over the three full days of my stay had been 38, 41, and 43 degrees Celsius, respectively, with the humidity at 88%. What rain I did see (on my final evening) lasted five minutes and didn’t even wet the ground.

While the timing of seasons can be unpredictable, perhaps it is best to take your African safari in Botswana at the beginning of the wet season rather than at the end!

See here for the best time to visit the Okavango Delta. My trip to Botswana had been a last-minute decision due to an unforeseen need to change travel plans, and I did not consider the weather!

 

My stay at Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp in Botswana’s Okavango Delta was nothing short of extraordinary. From the luxurious comfort of glamping under the African sky to the thrill of witnessing wildlife in its natural habitat, every moment felt magical. The attentive and warm hospitality from the staff only enhanced my experience, making it feel both intimate and unforgettable. Whether you’re a seasoned safari-goer or a first-timer, Stanley’s Camp offers a perfect blend of adventure and relaxation. It’s a place where nature and luxury harmonise, leaving you with memories that will last a lifetime.

I highly recommend Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp as your destination of choice.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. Unless specifically stated, all photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2024. All rights reserved.

 

Where was your favourite African safari?

I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.

 

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This is an image with two photos: the furnished interior of a luxury tent showing a bed, chair, and desk and a leopard hanging from the branch of a tree.

This image has two photos: a large tent furnished with couches, dining tables and chairs, and a bar and a giraffe family (mum, dad, and baby).

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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A wide waterfall cascades down the escarpment into the gorge below.SEE THE POWERFUL VICTORIA FALLS BY LAND AND AIR – My Photo Guide (2024 Updated).    See my landscape and aerial photos to inspire you to visit Victoria Falls on the border of Zimbabwe and Zambia. A bucket-list destination!

 

A large herd of elephants come down to the riverbank to drink.UNIQUE AFRICAN RIVER SAFARI – The Perfect Chobe River Boat Cruise. Join me on my unforgettable two-night Chobe River safari cruise. Experience incredible wildlife encounters that are only possible on a water-based safari.

 

An image with three photos of a pool surrounded with lounge chairs and umbrellas, an elephant throwing dust over itself, and morning teas served on the bonnet of a jeep.STAY AT LUXURY ZAINA LODGE IN GHANA FOR AMAZING WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS. Looking for a unique African safari experience? Zaina Lodge is a luxury safari destination in Ghana’s Mole National Park. Explore how to get there, when to visit, and what makes Zaina Lodge stand out. Get inspired for your next journey!

 

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Africa Ethiopia Postcards to Home

SIMIEN MOUNTAINS ETHIOPIA: When “Plastic Card” Means Warmth (Not what you think!) (2024 Updated)

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Lost in Translation! Discover How a ‘Plastic Card’ Becomes a Hot Water Bottle in Ethiopia’s Simien Mountains     Dear Pip, Having travelled as much as I have, I should…

Lost in Translation! Discover How a ‘Plastic Card’ Becomes a Hot Water Bottle in Ethiopia’s Simien Mountains

 

The sun set behind the mountain with several round huts used for accommodation.

Simien Lodge – sunset over the Simien Mountains

 

Dear Pip,

Having travelled as much as I have, I should no longer be surprised by how easily things can get lost in translation. But on this occasion, my physical comfort, or more precisely, my physical discomfort, enabled me to create my own meaning to communication.

I have arrived at the Simien Lodge in the Simien Mountains National Park. The Lodge is on an escarpment, and the mountain landscape is stunning. However, it was cold, and I needed to find my jacket from the bottom of my bag. This was the first time I needed my jacket since arriving in Ethiopia. It could have something to do with the Simien Lodge being 3,260 metres above sea level – the highest lodge in Africa.

The rooms in the Simien Lodge are spacious, with a good-sized bathroom, including a shower that I was actually able to turn around in (an issue in Ethiopian hotels). But the room was cold, and after a thorough search, I couldn’t find any means of heating it.

Due to arriving at the Simien Lodge after a very long drive (getting anywhere in Ethiopia involves a long drive), I decided a nap was in order. I would worry about the heating when I went down for dinner. Given the altitude and my hut being on top of a hill, I wasn’t going to walk up and down unless I absolutely had to.

Grabbing the blankets and quilts from the spare bed onto mine, I climbed into bed, thinking that at least I would be warm while I slept. How wrong could I be! I was still cold, even with an extra layer of clothes and my jacket. Needless to say, I went down for dinner as soon as the restaurant opened.

My first stop was at reception, where I asked how to heat my room. I was advised that the staff would provide me with “a plastic card for the bed” after dinner. I assumed this would be like a hotel room key card that you slot into a device to activate the room lights; I would slot this card somewhere in the room that I hadn’t yet located, and it would activate an electric blanket. An electric blanket would be most suitable. That it would be an electric blanket I hadn’t seen yet did not register. I should have known – don’t ever assume! The ‘plastic card for the bed’ was a hot water bottle. That I was disheartened by this method of heating my room was an understatement. How was I going to be warm? However, the hot water bottle worked a treat. I was snug in bed all night and had a great night’s sleep. That the room itself was cold mattered not one bit.

Tomorrow, I leave for Gondar, where, I am assured, it will be warmer.

Love,

Joanna

A view of a mountain range with green, brown, blue, and pink colours.

Simien Mountains National Park

 

Editor’s Note: I originally published this blog post in April 2019 and have updated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2024. All rights reserved.

 

Please share your ‘lost in translation’ experience in the comments below. I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments.

 

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A round stone hut with a straw thatched roof set in the mountains.

Several round accommodation huts set in a dip in the hill.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

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A panel of text telling the story of Ethiopian coffee culture and a woman's hands using a pestle and mortar.UNVEILING THE ETHIOPIAN COFFEE CEREMONY: Experiencing a Perfect Cultural Delight (2024 Updated)

Journey to the birthplace of coffee – Ethiopia – where coffee isn’t just a drink but a ritual steeped in tradition and social significance. Learn the ritual steps of Ethiopia’s coffee ceremony.

 

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Africa Ethiopia Reviews Travel Tips, Info and Resources

UNVEILING THE ETHIOPIAN COFFEE CEREMONY: Experiencing a Perfect Cultural Delight (2024 Updated)

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Ethiopia’s Coffee Ceremony is Deeply Rooted in Tradition and Social Significance.   Journey to the birthplace of coffee itself – Ethiopia – where coffee isn’t just a drink but a…

Ethiopia’s Coffee Ceremony is Deeply Rooted in Tradition and Social Significance.

 

Journey to the birthplace of coffee itself – Ethiopia – where coffee isn’t just a drink but a ritual steeped in tradition and social significance. This is the Ethiopian coffee ceremony, where time stands still to honour hospitality and respect, strengthen bonds, and foster conversations.

This post illustrates this timeless ritual, from the meticulous preparation of the coffee to the communal enjoyment that follows. Get ready to be immersed into the heart and soul of Ethiopian culture through its world-renowned coffee ceremony. It is a truly wonderful and unique experience!

 

I love coffee. I have drunk it in many countries with varying degrees of appreciation. Well, now I have found coffee heaven. It’s in Ethiopia, and there is a whole ceremony surrounding its making and drinking.

Ethiopia is the home of coffee. The coffee plant originated in Ethiopia, with the beans first brewed in the 11th century. So, Ethiopians have had a lot of practice doing stuff with coffee, to the point where a whole ceremony developed around brewing and drinking coffee. The coffee ceremony is an integral part of Ethiopian culture and hospitality. It is a significant social occasion.

Ethiopians have a delightful story around the discovery of the benefits of coffee. A goat herder noticed his goats acting excitedly and ‘dancing’ on their hind legs after eating the bright red berries from a particular tree. When he tried the berries himself, he felt energised. He grabbed some berries and rushed home to tell his wife, who told him he must share these “heaven-sent” berries with the monks in the nearby monastery. The monks did not share the goat herder’s elation, believing the berries to be sinful and the work of the Devil. They tossed the coffee berries into the fire. However, the smell of the roasting coffee beans made the monks rethink their view of this sinful drug, and they removed the coffee beans from the fire. They crushed the coffee beans to extinguish the glowing embers and covered them with hot water to preserve them. The aroma of the coffee made all the monks want to try it. After this, they vowed to drink coffee every day because they found the coffee’s uplifting effects helped keep them awake during their holy devotions. And so, Ethiopia’s coffee tradition and culture were created.

I loved the ceremony as much as the coffee itself. Unlike Italy, where coffee is drunk quickly whilst standing, preparing and drinking coffee in Ethiopia is not to be rushed as the hostess must not miss any step.

Wherever I travelled in Ethiopia, the coffee ceremony was always the same. There was something reassuring in this familiarity of freshly roasting coffee beans and the smell of fresh-cut grasses that were invariably laid on the ground. The laying of cut grasses on the floor sets the scene for the coffee ceremony.

When ordering coffee in a Western-style restaurant in Ethiopia, the coffee is brewed following the established ritual in a reserved area of the restaurant and served on a tray lined with fresh-cut grasses.

A tray sprinkled with green grasses and laid with coffee, a coffee pot, a sugar bowl, and hot coals.

Coffee is served on a tray with fresh-cut grasses.

 

Ethiopian coffee ceremony: the traditional steps

A tree branch with green coffee berries growing on it.

Coffee berries growing on the tree.

 

First, the raw coffee beans are rubbed together in water in a pan to remove the skins on the beans. Then, they are roasted over a charcoal brazier, releasing the aromatic oils from the beans. The hostess – I never saw this ceremony conducted by a man – brings the pan of smoking, roasted beans around for you to waft the smoke towards you, to draw in the aroma of the roasted beans.

A woman in a white dress pours water from a pot over coffee beans to remove the shells.

Washing the raw coffee beans.

 

Once roasted, the beans are ground with a mortar and pestle. Traditionally, the mortar and pestle are made of wood.

A woman in a white dress uses a pestle and mortar to grind coffee beans in and Ethiopian coffee ceremony.

Grinding the roasted coffee beans.

 

While grinding the beans, the hostess is boiling water in a terracotta “jebena” over an open fire. A jebena is a traditional Ethiopian clay coffee pot with a bulbous, round bottom, a long, narrow neck topped with a wooden or straw stopper, and a handle.

A traditional Ethiopian coffee pot with its round body and long neck.

The jebena I bought in a local market in Bahir Dar.

 

Once the coffee beans are ground, the resultant powder is added to the boiling water in the jebena. The combined water and ground beans are boiled for a couple of minutes and then rested to allow the coffee powder to sink to the bottom of the pot.

By this stage, if you are a coffee lover like me, the smell of freshly brewed coffee will have your mouth watering in anticipation of what will come.

Finally, the coffee is poured into small, handleless porcelain cups (similar to Chinese tea cups). The pouring is done from as high as possible above the cups – about a foot above the cups. The hostess will usually serve coffee with popcorn or peanuts.

Ethiopian coffee ceremony: a social event

Coffee isn’t just a drink in Ethiopia. It is an essential component of Ethiopian culture and society. Being invited to coffee in Ethiopia is considered a sign of friendship and respect. It is a time to extend the hand of hospitality, promote social relations, and catch up on neighbourhood news.

Ethiopian coffee is drunk sweet, and black. In fact, very sweet – 2 to 3 teaspoons of sugar. Mind you, the teaspoons are minuscule. I learnt to enjoy black coffee. However, by the time I left Ethiopia, I was drinking my coffee with a lot less sugar.

When drinking coffee in Ethiopia, etiquette requires you to have three cups of coffee. The first cup is to welcome you, the second is about friendship, and the third is to say goodbye. Denying coffee at any of the three servings is considered rude. Remember, these are tiny cups, so having three is less in quantity than a mug of coffee.

Ethiopian coffee is the best I have ever tasted. The two women I was travelling through Ethiopia with told me I said, “Oh, that’s good coffee”, every time I had a cup of coffee. This must have driven them mad because we had lots (and I mean lots) of cups of coffee. Finally, one of my travel companions told our diver-guide that Ethiopia needs to change its tourism slogan from “13 Months of Sunshine” to “Oh, That’s Good Coffee”. He just laughed.

So, if you ever find yourself in Ethiopia, immerse yourself in the magical and captivating experience of the coffee ceremony. You won’t be disappointed!

To learn about Ethiopia’s coffee ceremony’s cultural and social history, visit the Institute of Ethiopian Studies Ethnological Museum in Addis Ababa. This well-organised, delightful museum on Addis Ababa University’s main campus is dedicated to preserving, studying, and presenting Ethiopia’s rich cultural heritage.

The Ethnological Museum is open daily, excluding public holidays, with entrance fees charged at different rates for adults, students, and those wanting to take photographs. Engage one of the available guides who provide valuable information and insights about the museum’s collections.

A panel of text telling the story of Ethiopian coffee culture.

The Coffee Story, Ethnological Museum.

 

From the first crackle of roasting beans to the three rounds of shared cups, the Ethiopian coffee ceremony is more than a mere caffeine fix. It is a ritual filled with tradition, hospitality, shared moments, and a deep appreciation for the humble coffee bean. 

The ceremony unfolds in deliberate steps: roasting beans over coals, grinding them by hand, and brewing them in a traditional pot. Each step contributes to the welcoming atmosphere and deep-rooted traditions that define the Ethiopian coffee ceremony. 

Whether you have experienced it firsthand or are curious about it from afar, the Ethiopian coffee ceremony stands as a testament to the beauty of cultural rituals and the power of a shared cup of coffee to bring people together, wherever they may be.

 

Editor’s Note: I originally published this blog post in March 2019 and have updated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.

© Just Me Travel 2018-2024.

 

Where have you had the best cup of coffee? What made it so great?

I love hearing from you. Join the conversation and leave a comment below.

 

Like this post? Save it for Later!

A woman washing coffee beans with water from a jug and green coffee berries growing on a branch.

A poster with text telling the story of Ethiopian coffee culture and a woman using a mortar and pestle.

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

 

Sign up to receive the latest in travel destinations, topics, resources and guides.

 

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Stone huts with thatched roofs in a mountainous landscape.SIMIEN MOUNTAINS ETHIOPIA: When “Plastic Card” Means Warmth (Not what you think!) (2024 Updated)

International travel will inevitably lead to translation challenges. Read about my communication issue in Ethiopia’s Simien Mountains, which I can laugh about now but, at the time, impacted my physical comfort.

 

 

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Africa Benin Destinations Photo Stories Reviews

OUIDAH VOODOO FESTIVAL IN BENIN – a joyous celebration with 13 photos to inspire [2021 UPDATED]

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An Annual Celebration Not to Be Missed is Benin’s Voodoo Festival in Ouidah   Picture colour, music, singing, dancing, and a joyous party attracting national and international visitors. This is…

An Annual Celebration Not to Be Missed is Benin’s Voodoo Festival in Ouidah

 

Picture colour, music, singing, dancing, and a joyous party attracting national and international visitors. This is not Carnival in Rio de Janeiro or Venice. Add religion and culture, and you have Benin’s Voodoo Festival in Ouidah. With 13 photos to inspire your curiosity, wanderlust, and travel plans, join me in my experience of Benin’s Voodoo Day national celebration.

 

Voodoo Day in Benin falls on January 10 each year. It is a national holiday celebrating the country’s heritage of the West African religion of Voodoo.

Benin (officially the Republic of Benin) is a sliver of a nation in West Africa on the Atlantic Ocean. It borders Togo to the west, Nigeria to the east, and Burkina Faso and Niger to the north. Ouidah is a city on Benin’s narrow strip of coastline and was the ancient port of the slave trade.

An image of a map of West Africa

Map of West Africa

 

Attending Benin’s Voodoo Festival in Ouidah was my primary reason for travelling to West Africa.

Voodoo is one of Benin’s official religions, while Ouidah is considered the birthplace of Voodoo. It is probably one of the most misunderstood religions in the world. West African Voodoo is a complex religion rooted in healing and doing good to others. It is not the stuff of Hollywood – of witchcraft and black magic or sticking pins in dolls.

I must admit it was curiosity that fed my travel plans to include the Voodoo Festival in Ouidah. I wanted to witness this annual celebration of Benin’s heritage and traditional culture and to experience a unique festival.

My participation at the Voodoo Festival commenced with a visit to Ouidah’s Temple of Pythons – one of Voodoo’s most revered places and home to some 60 pythons. The pythons are a significant symbol for followers of Voodoo. They are not feared but are revered and worshipped. These pythons were said to be docile, which was just as well because they roamed freely. It was here, through a break in the trampling crowd, that I momentarily sighted the Voodoo Pope who had come to pay homage at the Temple of Pythons.

a group of women dressed in multi-coloured clothing and each wearing many bead necklaces.

Female Voodoo devotees at the Temple of Pythons

 

From the Temple of Pythons, the Voodoo Pope led a procession along the historical, 3-kilometre Slave Road to the ‘Door of No Return’ (of slave trade infamy) on Ouidah’s beach on the Atlantic coast. It was on this stretch of sand that the celebrations of the Voodoo Festival truly got underway.

And what a celebration!

With the dignitaries’ speeches over (this took over an hour), it was party time. But first, the spirits and Voodoo gods needed to be appeased with the sacrifice of a goat. The Voodoo Pope carried out this ritual behind a circular wall of blue plastic away from public view. Animal sacrifice is a fundamental element in Voodoo. No Voodoo ceremony is worth its salt without an animal sacrifice in exchange for favours from the spirits.

Immediately following the sacrifice, the Voodoo Pope made his way to his throne in the shadow of the Door of No Return. I say ‘throne’ because the festival hosts referred to him as “His Majesty the Pope”.

A seated group of men and women dressed in multi-coloured clothing.

The Voodoo Pope (in blue robes) on his throne

 

With the Voodoo Pope seated, the atmosphere changed. The speeches gave way to vibrant displays of dancing and the throbbing of drums. I witnessed ‘exorcisms’ in which a seemingly possessed person would run away from a group of people, only to be caught, dragged to the ground, and sprinkled with powder. The crowd became particularly excited when coloured haystacks appeared, spinning around the grounds. I learned these ‘haystacks’ are Voodoo spirits known as Zangbeto and are the traditional Voodoo guardians of the night – the Nightwatchmen. They are the unofficial police force and dispensers of justice. I did not envy the human police who battled to keep the crowds from encroaching on dancers and Voodoo spirits.

With so much going on around me, I wandered around aimlessly. I didn’t know which group to stay and watch or where to go next. But I was intent on seeing it all. I moved around the festival for a couple of hours until I decided it was time to sit down and people watch.

Overall, the celebration at the Voodoo Festival in Ouidah was a hive of activity in which people would swarm from one dance display to another. A kaleidoscope of colour from the attire worn by attendees and a cacophony of noise from the frantic pounding of drums dominated the festival. The crowd was buzzing.

But perhaps, the best way to describe the Voodoo Festival and my experience is to share some of my photos with you.

 

Ouidah’s Voodoo Festival was a never to be forgotten experience.

 

Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright © of Just Me Travel 2021.

 

Which festival have you attended that has been a ‘never to be forgotten experience’ for you? Tell us about it. Please leave a comment below to share your thoughts.

 

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For more posts on Africa, visit Just Me Travel: https://justme.travel/category/destinations/africa/

 

Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip, and always follow government advice.

 

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