Only in Undara Volcanic National Park, in Outback Queensland, Can You Combine a Guided Tour of Ancient Lava Tubes with a Stay in a Heritage Railway Carriage. Deep in…
Only in Undara Volcanic National Park, in Outback Queensland, Can You Combine a Guided Tour of Ancient Lava Tubes with a Stay in a Heritage Railway Carriage.
Deep in the heart of outback Queensland lies one of Australia’s most fascinating geological wonders – the Undara Lava Tubes. Here, ancient volcanic activity has shaped vast underground tunnels, now silent witnesses to millions of years of natural history. My visit to Undara Volcanic National Park combined adventure and nostalgia – exploring the incredible lava tubes by day and sleeping in a beautifully restored turn-of-the-century railway carriage at Discovery Resorts – Undara by night. It was a perfect mix of geology, history, and outback hospitality.
I visited Undara Lava Tubes with APT (Australian Pacific Touring) on their 12-Day Savannah Explorer 4WD Tour, travelling from Darwin to Cairns along the Savannah Way.
About Undara Volcanic National Park
Situated on the McBride Volcanic Province, about 275 kilometres southwest of Cairns and around 420 kilometres northwest of Townsville, Undara Volcanic National Park is part of the Gulf Savannah region in outback Tropical North Queensland. The park features one of the world’s longest lava tube systems, formed over 190,000 years ago when the Undara Volcano erupted. This event caused molten lava to flow over 160 kilometres across the landscape, mainly down the western side of the Great Dividing Range – the world’s longest flow from a single volcano. This flow created the geological phenomenon now known as the Undara Lava Tubes.
As the outer layers of the lava cooled and hardened, the molten lava inside continued to flow, eventually draining away to create hollow tubes – nature’s own underground corridors. Today, the Undara Lava Tubes provide a rare opportunity to explore the remains of this ancient eruption and marvel at nature’s power.
‘Undara’ is an Aboriginal word meaning ‘long way’ – a fitting name for one of the world’s longest lava tube cave systems.
The Undara Lava Tubes Tour
Access to the lava tubes is only possible through a guided tour to ensure visitor safety and protect the fragile environment.
After settling into our historic railway carriage accommodation at Discovery Resorts – Undara, our APT group joined our experienced Savannah Guide for the leisurely, two-hour Archway Explorer Lava Tube Tour.
Map displaying the Undara Lava Tubes and the accessible volcanic caves inside the tubes.
As it happened, our guide was a geologist who was very informative, easy to understand, and entertaining, keeping us engaged throughout the tour.
The Archway Explorer Lava Tube Tour is so named because of the archway formed when a weaker section of the lava tube’s roof collapsed. Descending through the archway and into the lava tube was an eerie experience, offering a breathtaking glimpse into the ancient forces that shaped Australia’s landscape. The drop in temperature, the increasing darkness, and the unique mosaic colours on the ceiling as I went further into the hollow lava tube felt like stepping into another world.
Descending the steps through the volcanic archway to the entrance of the lava tube.
The tour guides you along boardwalks and stairs with handrails that are suitable for most people. It is not accessible for wheelchairs or strollers.
The Archway Explorer Lava Tube Tour took us inside the hollow volcanic tube.
The unique mosaic appearance of the lava tube ceilings is created by mineral deposits seeping through the volcanic rock and by the oxidation of iron, which rusts over time.
Our guide took us to the entrance of a larger lava tube, but we weren’t allowed inside for safety reasons due to a recent roof collapse.
Tips:
Wear enclosed shoes, a hat, and sunscreen.
Bring a camera and a water bottle.
Tours run throughout the operating season (April to October) but can vary in duration and accessibility depending on the weather.
Staying at Discovery Resorts – Undara
Discovery Resorts – Undara is located on the edge of the Undara Volcanic National Park and is one with nature.
Our APT tour group was accommodated in the resort’s charming heritage railway carriages, which have won Australian Tourism Awards in the unique accommodation category. Built in the early 1900s, they have been lovingly refurbished to provide a cosy, comfortable stay. While each carriage retains its vintage character, with polished timber, brass fittings, and period furnishings, there is no shortage of comfort – with private en-suites, tea and coffee-making facilities, a small fridge, and air conditioning.
The historic, turn-of-the-century train carriage accommodation at Discovery Resorts – Undara.
The renovated bedroom in my railway carriage accommodation, with a view to the en-suite.
A section of my lounge room in the resort’s railway carriage accommodation.
The renovated railway carriage’s en-suite was small but sufficient.
There’s something delightfully nostalgic about falling asleep in a train carriage surrounded by the sounds of the Australian bush. It was the best night’s sleep I had all trip!
The railway carriages are not Discovery Resorts – Undara’s only means of accommodation, as they aim to cater to every budget with a variety of options – from Pioneer Huts and homesteads to powered and unpowered sites and swag tents.
Discovery Resorts – Undara doesn’t just stop at accommodation. I had a delicious lunch and dinner at the resort’s fully licensed restaurant, the Fettler’s Iron Pot Bistro. The meals were good country cooking, and the service was excellent.
Please note that all accommodation and dining facilities at Discovery Resorts – Undara are closed from November to March.
Other Things to Do While Staying at Discovery Resorts – Undara
One night’s stay at Discovery Resort – Undara was too short, as I didn’t get the opportunity to explore Undara Volcanic National Park’s walking trails. The resort offers self-guided bushwalking trails that wind through open savannah, leading to scenic viewpoints and wildlife-rich areas.
Also available is the Wildlife at Sunset Tour, where your guide will identify native wildlife and bird species as the outback sky turns fiery red and orange – all while enjoying sparkling wine and nibbles, before heading to the entrance of a lava tube to watch microbats emerge at night.
Don’t leave Undara without trying the resort’s Bush Breakfast served daily at Ringers’ Camp, just a short walk from the resort. Sitting on logs with ingenious cup holders, surrounded by the bush, and watched over by kookaburras, it’s a truly unique experience. Enjoy a continental and cooked buffet-style breakfast, along with freshly boiled billy tea as you toast your own bread over the campfire.
The Undara Bush Breakfast – an experience you shouldn’t miss.
How to Get There
Undara Volcanic National Park is located about a 3.5-hour drive southwest of Cairns along the Savannah Way in Tropical North Queensland. The journey itself is part of the adventure, taking you through remote outback scenery and small country towns.
The easiest way to reach Undara is by car, as it gives you the flexibility to explore at your own pace. The road to Undara is sealed all the way from Cairns, Townsville, and Georgetown, suitable for 2WD and 4WD vehicles and towing a caravan. Guided tours and transfers from Cairns are also available through several operators.
I visited Undara as part of APT’s 12-day Savannah Explorer 4WD tour, which follows the Savannah Way from Darwin to Cairns (a reverse trip from Cairns to Darwin is also available) – an excellent option for travellers who prefer a fully guided experience without the hassle of self-driving.
Please note that Discovery Resorts – Undara and the lava tube tours operate seasonally, open from 1 April to 30 October each year. Outside these dates, access to the resort and guided tours is unavailable, so plan your trip accordingly.
When to go
The Undara Lava Tubes and Discovery Resorts – Undara are open seasonally, from 1 April to 30 October each year. This period corresponds with northern Queensland’s dry season, when the days are typically warm and sunny, humidity is low, and evenings are cooler – ideal for exploring the outback. During these months, roads are easily accessible, tours operate regularly, and walking trails are open.
From November to March, both the resort and lava tube tours close for the wet season, when heavy rainfall makes access difficult.
So, plan your visit between April and October when Undara’s landscapes are at their most inviting and you can fully enjoy both the geological wonders and the unique accommodation.
Visiting Undara Volcanic National Park was like uncovering one of Australia’s best-kept natural secrets. Exploring the Undara Lava Tubes showcased the incredible power of the Earth’s ancient forces, while sleeping in a heritage railway carriage at Discovery Resorts – Undara was a unique and nostalgic experience that captured the true spirit of the Australian outback.
Whether you come to marvel at the underground creativity of nature, explore the expansive savannah landscape, or enjoy unusual accommodation, Undara is a destination you shouldn’t miss. It’s a place where Earth’s history meets human ingenuity and where the outback truly comes alive.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
If you were planning a trip to the Australian outback, would you choose a guided lava tube tour with an overnight stay in a heritage train carriage? Why or why not?
I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.
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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
COOL OFF IN TROPICAL PARADISE: 5 Top Swimming Holes Near Cairns. Northern Queensland’s rainforest conceals some of the most refreshing swimming spots in Australia, from crater lakes to cascading waterfalls and ancient gorges. Visit five incredible places on day trips from Cairns. Discover them all in this blog post.
A Solo Traveller’s Ideal Five-Day Self-Guided Walking Itinerary in Breathtaking Venice. Updated October 2025: This is the second major update to this Venice walking guide. What’s new in this…
A Solo Traveller’s Ideal Five-Day Self-Guided Walking Itinerary in Breathtaking Venice.
Updated October 2025: This is the second major update to this Venice walking guide.
What’s new in this update:
Improved formatting and tone.
Resized images to load quicker and added new photos for inspiration.
Fixed broken links and ensured they remained relevant.
Included additional information for reader enrichment.
Previous update: August 2020 – for accuracy and comprehensiveness.
Venice is a city made for walking. With its car-free streets, maze of canals, and endless bridges, the best way to discover its beauty is on foot. Rather than rushing through the highlights in a single day, I spent five days exploring Venice at a slower pace, uncovering the charm of a different district each day. From the grandeur of San Marco to the lively markets of San Polo, the hidden corners of Cannaregio, the quiet elegance of Castello, and the colourful islands of Murano and Burano, this self-guided walking tour gave me a deeper appreciation of the city.
If you’re planning a trip and want to see both the famous landmarks and Venice’s more authentic side, this 5-day walking itinerary will guide you step by step through the best neighbourhoods, local experiences, and scenic walks.
Why Explore Venice on Foot
Venice is one of the most walkable cities in the world. With no cars, scooters, or bicycles allowed, its streets, bridges, and canals form a unique urban landscape where walking isn’t just an option – it’s a necessity. But far from being a limitation, this makes exploring Venice on foot an absolute joy. Every turn uncovers a new treasure: a quiet square, a hidden church, a tiny bridge arching over a narrow canal.
Walking allows you to move at your own pace, pausing to notice the details you might otherwise overlook—like laundry fluttering from a balcony or gondoliers calling out to each other. It’s also the best way to steer clear of the busiest tourist spots and come across authentic Bacari (wine bars) where Venetians gather for cicchetti and spritz.
Choosing a self-guided walking itinerary lets you plan your days around your interests, whether that’s history, food, or photography. It also gives you the freedom to stray from the main routes and explore side streets not found in guidebooks. While vaporetti (waterbuses) are handy for longer distances or visiting the islands, walking truly allows you to feel the city’s rhythm.
If you want to experience Venice beyond postcards, wandering on foot is the best way to connect with its character and charm.
5-Day Self-Guided Walking Tour of Venice
Join me on a relaxed walk around Venice – on a ‘walkabout’ with my camera, feet clad in comfy walking shoes, and curiosity leading the way.
Over four days, my self-guided walk took me on some incredible adventures as I wandered through and explored five of Central Venice’s six districts – San Marco, San Polo and Santa Croce, Cannaregio, and Castello. On the fifth day, I went island hopping to Murano and Burano.
It is possible not to get lost in Venice if you allow yourself just to wander, with only the occasional “Where am I?” moments. The secret is that Venice has become wise with strategically placed signs pointing the way to St. Mark’s Square or the Rialto Bridge, both major landmarks. However, I must confess that I did pull out the map once, in San Polo. I had wandered down so many narrow alleyways that when I entered a tiny courtyard, I didn’t even know which direction I was facing.
The starting point for each day’s walk was my hotel, Hotel da Bruno, in the Castello district. Ideally located in Venice’s historic centre, Hotel da Bruno is the perfect location for exploring Venice on foot. For my review of Hotel da Bruno, see the section, ‘Where I stayed’ at the end of this post.
I explored a different district each day, but you don’t need to follow my self-guided walking itinerary exactly. This post is simply a guide, my footsteps – feel free to explore what interests you, mix things up, or add your own discoveries.
Ready to explore beautiful Venice on foot? Let’s go!
Map of Venice’s six districts. (Wandering Italy)
Day 1 – San Marco: The iconic heart of Venice
San Marco is the most well-known district in Venice. Recognised as the city’s historic and cultural heart, this area is home to the iconic landmarks that symbolise Venice worldwide – Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square), the Basilica di San Marco (St. Mark’s Cathedral), and the Doge’s Palace.
St. Mark’s Cathedral in St. Mark’s Square.
The Doge’s Palace.
I began my morning wandering through San Marco’s alleyways, crossing some of Venice’s 400 unique bridges, and watching the waters of the canals lap against the doorsteps of buildings in various states of glorious decay. Everywhere I turned, I saw evidence of Venice’s unstable foundations, with lopsided arches and leaning church bell towers – such a photographer’s paradise. I’ve fallen in love with Venice.
Over a coffee in Campo Santa Maria Formosa, I watched canal barges loading linen from hotels and learnt from the waiter that the linen is taken off the islands to the mainland for laundering to prevent pollution of the canals.
Taking in my surroundings from one bridge, I saw a gondola traffic jam and felt glad I was wandering around Venice on foot.
A gondola traffic jam on a Venice canal.
Venturing down a very narrow alleyway near Campo Manin, which required me to manoeuvre through like a crab, I came across an unusual building with the most elegant external multi-arch spiral staircase – the 14th-century gothic Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. The staircase, with its ascending rows of round-headed arches, is the only one of its kind in Venice today.
Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo isn’t usually included in city tourist itineraries, but many consider it one of Venice’s hidden gems. It’s a small palace, but absolutely worth a visit.
Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo features its unusual external spiral staircase.
Stumbling across Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) for the third time in half an hour, I decided it was time to enjoy a coffee at the iconic Café Florian in St Mark’s Square. Established in 1720, Café Florian is the oldest café in Venice and claims to be the oldest in the world. At the cost of €15 (about AUD 27.00) for my coffee, I knew it was an experience I wouldn’t be repeating.
As I wandered through the Basilica di San Marco (St. Mark’s Cathedral), marvelling at the stunning mosaics and golden arches, I thought about the story I was told involving two merchants from Alexandria, Egypt, who supposedly stole St. Mark’s body and brought it back to Venice. Then there’s the miracle of St. Mark’s body reappearing in 1094 after being destroyed by fire in 976. St. Mark’s body now rests in the Cathedral’s altar.
The stunning interior of St. Mark’s Cathedral – mosaics and golden arches!
Walking along the banks of the Grand Canal, I was surprised to see a fireboat rushing past before it disappeared into a side canal. My amazement came from seeing a ‘fire engine’ that was actually a boat, not a large truck. Later, I saw an ambulance navigating through a narrow canal.
A Venetian fireboat speeds along the Grand Canal.
A Venetian ambulance manoeuvres through Venice’s narrow canals.
Above all, these two scenes clearly showed me how Venice’s waterways serve as a substitute for streets.
Day 2 – San Polo and Santa Croce: Markets, churches, and Venetian life
The boundaries between San Polo and Santa Croce aren’t as distinct as those of Venice’s other four districts. In fact, they’re so blurred that it was hard to tell which district I was in. So, I’ve grouped them together in this post, as many guidebooks do, creating a manageable area for exploring.
San Polo is Venice’s smallest district, yet one of its liveliest. It is renowned for the Rialto Market, where locals buy fresh fish, fruit, and vegetables in a vibrant, colourful atmosphere.
Fresh fish for sale in Rialto Fish Market, San Polo.
Unlike San Polo, Santa Croce is a quieter, less touristy area with hidden squares and local cafés.
A local café I stumbled upon while wandering through Santa Croce’s many small, hidden squares.
Stepping out of my hotel, I crossed the Grand Canal from San Marco into San Polo via Rialto Bridge – one of the oldest and most photographed bridges spanning the Grand Canal.
Venice’s iconic Rialto Bridge spans the Grand Canal between San Marco and San Polo.
My first stop this morning was Rialto Market. Markets are a great way to gain insight into the local people, offering a glimpse into their culture. As I wandered around the market’s vegetable section and chatted to the stallholders, I learned that the humble tomato is not so ordinary. Firstly, there are 25 varieties of tomatoes in Italy. Secondly, no self-respecting vendor will sell you tomatoes without knowing what you’re cooking with them. This is important because they all have different tastes and require pairing with the right dish. Only by knowing what dish you’re making can the stall owner recommend the perfect type of tomato. I must admit that my palate doesn’t quite measure up to Venetian standards for tomatoes.
Next on my itinerary after leaving Rialto Market was to find the shop Tragicomica on Calle dei Nomboli, San Polo 2800, as I wanted to buy a traditional Venetian mask. My research back home before heading to Italy had suggested that this was the best shop.
Venice is renowned for its masks, which play a significant role in its history and culture. The tradition dates back to the Middle Ages, when Venetians traditionally used them to conceal social status and identity. Today, Venetian masks are most closely linked with the famous Carnival of Venice and remain highly popular souvenirs for visitors.
My walk to Tragicomica took me past one of Venice’s oldest churches, the San Giacomo di Rialto, with its 15th-century 24-hour clock, and through Campo San Polo (San Polo Square).
With a map of the San Polo district, I had no trouble finding Tragicomica. When I entered the shop, I found it crowded with masks, and I wondered how I’d ever find that special mask with my name on it. After a long chat with Tragicomica’s artisan Mask Maker about the different types of masks and their history, I bought an authentic Venetian papier-mâché Plague Doctor Mask with its long beak-like nose. Doctors would fill the beak with herbs as it was believed this would protect them from the plague.
The Plague Doctor Mask I bought at Tragicomica in San Polo.
Sitting in a café opposite the rear of the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, a large Gothic church commonly called the Frari, I enjoyed a relaxing hour watching people go about their business. Even though Eyewitness Travel (Venice) describes the church’s interior as “striking for its sheer size and for the quality of its works of arts”, I didn’t go inside. Instead, I wandered around the church’s exterior, taking photos. The front of the church was very plain, while the rear was much more impressive architecturally.
The rear view of the Gothic church, Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari.
Lunch today was at Pizzeria Cico in Campo San Polo – the second largest public square in Venice. The food was edible but ordinary, and the square was plain-featured, but great for people-watching.
Day 3 – Cannaregio: Hidden gems and local life
Cannaregio is often called Venice’s most authentic district. It’s quieter than San Marco and San Polo, offering a more relaxed pace and a chance to experience the city like a local. One of its notable features is the oldest Jewish Ghetto in the world – a historic area with synagogues, small museums, and charming cafés.
The Campo di Ghetto Nuovo, located in the centre of the Jewish Ghetto, is a small, charming square featuring poignant Holocaust memorials. Uncharacteristically tall buildings, rare in Venice, surround the Campo di Ghetto Nuovo. The Jewish community built these towering structures because they were confined to a tiny area 500 years ago to keep them separate from Venice’s Christian population. As the Jewish community grew and needed more housing, the only option was to build upwards.
The Ghetto’s five synagogues, not visible from the square, date back to the 16th century. Through the Jewish museum’s guided tour, the only way to see these hidden treasures, I discovered three of the five synagogues on the top floors of buildings – the French, German, and Levantine, each representing a different ‘school’.
Back in Campo di Ghetto Nuovo, I reflected on the Holocaust memorials depicting Nazi brutality against Jews during the Second World War.
The Holocaust Memorial on the brick wall in Campo di Ghetto Nuovo, erected in 1980, features seven bronze bas-relief plaques depicting deportation, Kristallnacht (the Night of Broken Glass), the quarry, punishment, execution, the Warsaw Uprising, and the Final Solution. Nine years later, another memorial was added, the Deportation Memorial, also known as “The Last Train.” The names and ages of each victim who was deported are carved on wooden boards behind the Deportation Memorial.
The Holocaust Memorial in the Jewish Ghetto’s Campo di Ghetto Nuovo.
The Deportation Memorial, “The Last Train”, in Venice’s Jewish Ghetto.
Cannaregio is a top spot for food lovers, with local trattorias and cicchetti bars where you can try Venetian specialities without the tourist crowds.
I had lunch at GAM GAM Kosher Restaurant, located opposite the main entrance of the Jewish Ghetto on the Cannaregio Canal. Sitting outside, it was a fantastic spot for people-watching while enjoying a relaxing meal. I couldn’t resist ordering the house speciality, ‘Israeli Appetisers with Falafel’, served with the most delicious Italian bread. I wasn’t disappointed, and I can honestly say this was the best meal I had in Venice.
Walking back to the hotel along Strada Nova, I took a traghetto (pedestrian transport) across the Grand Canal, disembarking near Rialto Market. Traghetti are cheap ‘pedestrian’ gondola ferries that simply cross the Grand Canal from one side to the other. Unlike private gondola rides, traghetti are basic, hold up to ten passengers, and are rowed by two gondoliers.
There are several points along the Grand Canal where you can catch a traghetto. The fare costs €0.70 for locals and €2 for tourists. The crossing is so brief that locals often stand during the short ride. I sat down! I didn’t trust my balance well enough to avoid ending up in the Grand Canal. Did I save any walking distance? Probably not! But for about six minutes, I felt like a true local and knew I had experienced something special, as tourists don’t usually use this mode of transport.
A traghetto (communal gondola ferry) crossing the Grand Canal.
Day 4 – Castello: History and quiet corners
Castello is Venice’s largest district, bordering Piazza San Marco and extending east to the leafy, modern housing of Sant’Elena. It is home to historical landmarks, such as the Arsenale, which was once the heart of Venice’s naval power.
While mostly disused today and closed to the public except for exhibitions, the Arsenale was once the world’s greatest naval shipyard. An entire galley could be built in 24 hours using an assembly-line process. Two massive lion statues, the symbol of Venice, stand guard at the entrance to the Arsenale. The Naval History Museum, located near the Arsenale, showcases Venice’s past. I found naval personnel to be a common sight around the Castello neighbourhood.
The Arsenale – a complex of former shipyards and armouries.
Castello was a lovely area to walk around and didn’t have the tourist crowds that you find in nearby San Marco. My wandering took me to Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, a street lined with restaurants, bars, and cafés. It’s Venice’s widest street because it’s a filled-in canal. Feeling hungry, I stopped for a sandwich and coffee at Hopera Coffee and Bakery on Via Giuseppe Garibaldi.
Heading back towards Piazza San Marco, as I crossed Ponte Canonica, I saw for the first time Venice’s most famous and only covered bridge, the Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri). This small Baroque bridge spans the canal, Rio di Palazzo, between the New Prison in the Castello district and the Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace) in the San Marco district. From Ponte Canonica, I had an unobstructed view of the Bridge of Sighs, allowing my camera to capture the moment.
The Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri) marks the border between the San Marco and Castello districts.
After enjoying a coffee and people-watching from Ristorante Carpaccio on Riva degli Schiavoni, Venice’s most famous promenade, I toured the Doge’s Palace and the New Prison. The tour included crossing the Bridge of Sighs. As I walked across the bridge, I sighed, just as legend says the prisoners did when they moved from the interrogation rooms in the Doge’s Palace to their cells or execution in the New Prison. Looking out the windows of the bridge and catching their last glimpse of Venice, they sighed, knowing they’d never walk back the other way. I found out that Casanova was the most famous person to cross the Bridge of Sighs on his way to his prison cell, from which he later escaped.
Near my hotel, there was a gelato shop called Gelatoteca Suso on Calle de la Bissa. Before heading back, I decided to try a gelato, as everyone I met had raved about Venetian gelato and this shop in particular. I’m not a big fan of ice cream or gelato, and this experience didn’t change my mind.
Day 5 – Murano and Burano: Colourful islands beyond Venice
Before heading off on my trip to Venice, I decided there were two things I wanted to buy – a Venetian mask and Murano glass jewellery. After purchasing my Doctor Plague Mask in the San Polo district on day 2, I ticked that off my shopping list. Now I needed to focus on finding that perfect piece of Murano glass jewellery. The best way to do this was to go to Murano. So, I took a day tour of the Murano and Burano islands. Located in the UNESCO World Heritage Venetian Lagoon, both islands are a short distance from Venice, with Murano being the closest.
Taking a private boat across the Lagoon, our first stop was Murano, renowned worldwide for its glassmaking tradition dating back to 1291. Back then, Venetian glassmakers were forcibly relocated to Murano to prevent devastating fires in the city’s mostly wooden buildings and to control the spread of valuable glassmaking secrets. Woe betide any glassmaker who tried to leave the island. Any attempt to do so would result in severe penalties, including death.
The tour included a visit to a glassmaking workshop and a demonstration by the in-house glass artisans. I always feel it’s a privilege to watch artisans engaged in their craft. After the glassmaking demonstration, we had free time to shop and explore the island at our leisure.
Glassmakers working at their craft at a glassmaking factory on Murano.
I was now on a mission – to find that piece of jewellery with my name on it (figuratively speaking). I looked through the showroom attached to the glassmaking workshop, but the jewellery was too glitzy and too fussy for my taste. I couldn’t access other showrooms (hoping to find something more to my liking) as it is only possible to enter a showroom with a tour. With some free time still available, I tried my luck at small, individual jewellery shops. But they offered nothing better. I expressed my bitter disappointment to the tour guide. She offered to take me to a boutique jewellery shop on Burano, where I should find Murano glass jewellery more to my ‘no bling’ taste. Read on to find out why I will be forever grateful to this guide.
Leaving Murano, we headed to Burano. Burano is primarily a fishing village, but it is famous for its brightly coloured houses and rich lacemaking tradition. After a lacemaking demonstration, my guide took me to the shop, Alessandro Tagliapietra Murano Glass Jewels. The owner of this small jewellery shop only sells what he makes. I had a lovely time choosing several pieces of handmade Murano glass jewellery – necklaces and earrings. So, I bought my Murano glass jewellery in Burano – go figure! Now totally satisfied, I wandered around Burano, taking photos of the canals and vibrant houses, chatting with the locals, and gazing at the incredible sight of the 16th-century leaning bell tower of St. Martin’s Church.
Crossing the Venetian Lagoon to Burano, the island’s renowned colourful houses and leaning bell tower come into view.
Burano’s vibrant houses front onto one of its many canals.
An engaging street scene on Burano.
That concludes my self-guided, 5-day walking tour of Venice. Where will your feet carry you next?
Practical Tips for Your Venice Walking Itinerary
Walking around Venice is magical, but a few practical tips will help you make the most of your 5-day walking tour.
When to go
I was in Venice in early May. According to the World Weather Organization, the average daytime temperature in Venice during May is 21.5°C (70.7°F), and the average number of rainy days is 8.2.
During my week in Venice, the daily temperature was about 23°C, but it felt warmer. Maybe all that water increases the humidity?
Being my first visit to Venice, and based on what I had read, I expected Venice to be inundated with tourists. I was pleasantly surprised by the reality of crowds in May. Sure, there were many tourists around St. Mark’s Square and Rialto Bridge, but in most other places, I was virtually on my own.
In my opinion, May is a perfect time of year to visit Venice. Not too hot, not too cold, little chance of rain, and fewer crowds.
Getting there and away
My time alone in Venice came after an eight-day river cruise along the Po River. As a result, I arrived in Venice twice – first at Venice’s Marco Polo International Airport on a flight from Australia to meet the cruise, and then at Pier Marittima 123 at the cruise’s end, where most cruise ships dock.
From Marco Polo Airport, I caught the Alilaguna waterbus (vaporetto) Red Line (Linea Rossa) service to the Arsenale stop, which was the closest stop to where my ship was docked. Using public transport was very straightforward. The Alilaguna waterbus Red Line operates only from April to September. I was in Venice in May. See Alilaguna for lines and timetables throughout the year.
Had I been travelling from the airport to my hotel (Hotel da Bruno), I would have taken an Orange Line vaporetto, alighting at the Rialto stop.
My second arrival in Venice was at Pier Marittima 123. From a nearby canal, I took a water taxi to my hotel (Hotel da Bruno), rather than the vaporetto. The travel guide, Eyewitness Travel, describes water taxis as a means of transportation for those short on time and with a lot of money. While I was neither time-poor nor wealthy, I baulked at the thought of managing my bags through the crowds around Rialto Bridge, especially as I was unsure how far the hotel was from the Rialto stop. So, it was a water taxi! Ninety euros later, the water taxi dropped me off at the canal beside my hotel. I won’t do that again! Knowing now how easy it was to get around Venice by vaporetto, I will only be catching public transport on my next visit to Venice.
From Venice, I caught the train to Rome. A friend advised me to allow an hour and a half to get from my hotel to Venice’s Santa Lucia train station. I don’t know how my friend managed to take that long to reach the station, because it took me at most half an hour to get there. The trip included walking from my hotel to the Rialto vaporetto stop on the Grand Canal and catching the vaporetto to the station, also on the Grand Canal. Dead easy!
Where I stayed
I stayed at the Hotel da Bruno for my five nights in Venice. This hotel is all about location, location. Being only a 5-minute walk to Rialto Bridge and a 6-minute walk to Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square), it is well-placed to explore all Venice has to offer on foot.
However, I was bitterly disappointed with my room. I had booked a single room and was shocked when I saw it. My room was no bigger than a broom closet. It was dark and dingy, with outdated, tired furniture. The view from my window was of the air shaft. Not a place I wanted to be! I tried to upgrade to a double room, but there were none available. Hotel da Bruno’s only saving grace was its location.
Would I stay at Hotel da Bruno again? Yes. But I would make sure to book a double room. As the saying goes: Better the devil you know than the devil you don’t! And for me, location is key.
Timing your walks
San Marco is undeniably busy, but visiting early in the morning or in the evening, after the day-trippers have left, offers a more magical experience. Wander off the main tourist paths for quieter canals and piazzas, and explore side streets for enchanting, tucked-away corners.
Staying safe
Venice is generally safe, but stay alert for pickpockets in crowded areas. Be cautious when walking near canal edges since paths can be narrow and slippery when wet. Read my blog post for detailed tips on staying safe when travelling overseas.
Venice is a city best enjoyed slowly, with plenty of time to wander, explore, and stumble across its hidden corners. Over five days, walking through each district gave me the chance to see both the famous sights and the quieter, more genuine parts of the city. From the grandeur of San Marco to the bustling markets of San Polo, the peaceful canals of Cannaregio, the historic elegance of Castello, and the colourful charm of Murano and Burano, each day revealed a different aspect of Venice’s beauty and character.
A self-guided walking tour allows you to explore at your own pace, take your time wherever you want, and make your own discoveries. It’s not just about ticking off famous sights – it’s about feeling the rhythm of the city, enjoying its food, canals, and lively local scene, and experiencing Venice in a personal, immersive way.
Whether you’re visiting for the first time or returning to the city, taking the time to explore Venice on foot is the best way to truly connect with its rich history, vibrant culture, and unique charm. Follow this 5-day walking itinerary to experience the highlights of each district, and let the magic of Venice unfold one step at a time.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and not sponsored. Unless specifically acknowledged, all photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
What’s your favourite “off-the-beaten-path” spot in Venice that you’d recommend to other travellers?
I’d love to hear from you! Have you explored Venice on foot, or are you planning a walking tour of your own? Share your favourite Venetian experiences or the district you’d most like to wander through in the comments below. Your tips, stories, and reflections can help other travellers make the most of their time in this incredible city.
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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
A Traveller’s Guide to Wonderful Swimming Holes in Northern Queensland’s Rainforest. Cairns may be best known as the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef, but venture inland and you’ll…
A Traveller’s Guide to Wonderful Swimming Holes in Northern Queensland’s Rainforest.
Cairns may be best known as the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef, but venture inland and you’ll discover another side of Tropical North Queensland – a lush world of rainforest, waterfalls, and natural swimming holes. With warm, humid weather all year round, there’s nothing more refreshing than plunging into a cool rainforest pool after a morning of exploring.
From volcanic crater lakes to postcard-perfect waterfalls, Tropical North Queensland is dotted with swimming holes that feel like hidden gems. The best part? Many of them are perfect for easy day trips from Cairns.
During my four days in Cairns, I joined two tours to make the most of my rainforest swims. The Waterfall Wanderers Tour with Cairns Adventure Group took me to Lake Eacham, Millaa Millaa Falls, Josephine Falls, and Babinda Boulders – a full day of rainforest lakes and waterfalls. To round out the experience, I joined the Daintree, Mossman Gorge & Wildlife Tour with Tropic Wings Cairns Tours, which combined swimming at Mossman Gorge with a visit to a wildlife sanctuary and the chance to see one of the world’s oldest rainforests.
Why Swim in Tropical North Queensland’s Rainforest?
When most travellers think of Cairns, the Great Barrier Reef usually springs to mind. But venture inland and you’ll find another side of Tropical North Queensland – a lush, green landscape of waterfalls, crystal-clear creeks and rivers, and volcanic crater lakes tucked away in the rainforest. Here, swimming isn’t just about cooling off in the tropical heat; it’s about immersing oneself in nature at its most pristine.
Tropical North Queensland’s rainforest swimming holes are fed by clear mountain streams, shaded by towering trees, and teeming with wildlife – for the first time, I saw a platypus in its natural habitat. You won’t find chlorinated pools or crowded beaches here – instead, you’ll float beneath waterfalls, slide down smooth granite rocks, or wade into calm lakes formed thousands of years ago.
These waterholes also deepen our connection with the land. Some, like Babinda Boulders and Mossman Gorge, are important to Indigenous communities, reminding us to swim with respect and care. Safety remains crucial, as conditions can change rapidly in the tropics. Always follow local signs and advice.
Swimming in Queensland’s tropical rainforest is about more than just taking a dip – it’s an adventure that combines relaxation with the chance to connect with one of the most ancient landscapes on Earth.
The 5 Best Rainforest Swimming Holes Near Cairns
Tropical North Queensland’s rainforest is scattered with natural swimming holes, each offering its own appeal – from peaceful volcanic lakes to tumbling waterfalls and granite-edged gorges. Whether you’re after a refreshing swim, a chance to connect with nature, or that perfect photo spot, these five swimming holes near Cairns showcase some of the region’s top rainforest escapes.
Lake Eacham – A volcanic crater turned crystal-clear oasis
Lake Eacham’s calm, crystal-clear blue waters make it a tranquil, natural swimming spot.
Just over an hour’s drive from Cairns, Lake Eacham is part of Crater Lakes National Park and one of the Atherton Tablelands’ most inviting swimming holes. Formed more than 10,000 years ago by a volcanic eruption, this crater lake is now a tranquil pool of deep, clear blue water surrounded by dense rainforest.
The lake’s still surface makes it perfect for a refreshing swim or a leisurely float while soaking up the sounds of the rainforest. Unlike some of the region’s waterfalls, there are no strong currents here – just a peaceful, natural swimming hole to relax and take your time.
Facilities make it easy to enjoy a few hours at Lake Eacham. There’s a grassy picnic spot, toilets, and a shaded walking trail that goes around the lake. With water access points easy to reach, you can step straight in for a swim.
Lake Eacham feels miles from Cairns, but it’s close enough for a relaxed day trip. It’s a spot to unwind, take it easy, and swim in a lake formed by fire but cooled by the rainforest.
Don’t let the freshwater crocodile living in Lake Eacham deter you from swimming. Unlike saltwater crocodiles, freshwater crocodiles are usually shy and don’t threaten humans. However, this croc may become aggressive and cause injury if you threaten it.
Millaa Millaa Falls – Swim beneath Queensland’s most photographed waterfall
Miller Millaa Falls is the most iconic waterfall in Queensland’s Atherton Tablelands and a popular swimming hole.
Millaa Millaa Falls is a state heritage-listed postcard-worthy waterfall on Queensland’s Atherton Tablelands. Featuring a stunning, curtain-like 18-metre cascade into a clear, natural pool, and surrounded by lush rainforest, Millaa Millaa Falls is famous for its picturesque beauty and is one of the most photographed waterfalls in Australia. The falls have been used as a backdrop for shampoo and beer ads and featured in the music video for Peter Andre’s “Mysterious Girl”.
The plunge pool at the base of the falls is safe and perfect for a swim. Step in and enjoy the refreshing water, or swim right up to the waterfall’s curtain for a revitalising shower.
Facilities at Millaa Millaa Falls include BBQs, picnic tables, shelters, toilets, and change rooms, making it an ideal stop for a day trip. The car park’s proximity to the falls ensures quick and easy access, allowing visitors to experience this natural wonder without having to walk far.
Josephine Falls – Slide into adventure at nature’s water playground
Josephine Falls is a picturesque, mult-level cascade waterfall in Far North Queensland.
Located in Wooroonooran National Park on Josephine Creek, Josephine Falls is the perfect spot for a mix of relaxation and fun. Fed by rainwater from Queensland’s highest peak, Mount Bartle Frere, this multi-tiered waterfall tumbles over massive granite boulders into emerald-green pools surrounded by tropical rainforest.
The lower swimming area is safe, with peaceful pools that are perfect for cooling off. However, the main draw for many visitors is the natural rock slide in the middle tier – a smooth granite slope where you can slide into the pool below. It’s nature’s waterslide, and it makes Josephine Falls one of the most exciting, adrenaline-pumping swimming spots in the region.
From Josephine Falls’ car park, the waterfalls, viewing decks, and swimming areas are accessed via a stunning 700-metre rainforest walk that is a bitumen-paved track and mostly uphill. The track is suitable for prams and wheelchairs.
Slide down Josephone Falls’ natural waterslide for a fun experience.
The path to Josephine Falls is a pretty walk through a World Heritage-listed rainforest.
A word of caution:
Conditions at Josephine Falls can be dangerous, particularly due to sudden flash floods at any time of year, slippery rocks, and submerged objects in the creek. For visitor safety, access to the top section of the falls is prohibited, as serious injuries and fatalities have occurred there. You must observe the signposted restricted access area.
At Josephine Falls, our Cairns Adventure Group tour guide provided a safety briefing before directing our access to the natural rock slide at the middle-tier waterfall.
Babinda Boulders – Sacred waters among giant granite boulders
A safe swimming spot at Babinda Boulders.
Babinda Boulders is a place of both natural beauty and deep cultural significance for the local Aboriginal people. Here, a clear mountain creek winds its way around massive granite boulders, forming natural swimming holes where you can swim in the shadow of rainforest-clad mountains.
The main swimming area is calm and safe, with sandy banks and shady picnic spots – perfect for a relaxed, refreshing dip. But beyond the designated swimming zones, the water flows through narrow chutes and powerful currents, especially around Devil’s Pool, making those areas off-limits.
Local signs and stories tell the Dreamtime legend of the site, reminding visitors of its spiritual significance to the Yidinjy people. Babinda Boulders is a popular swimming hole with a strong sense of place – a reminder to respect the landscape as much as we enjoy it.
A word of caution:
For the second time on this day trip, the Cairns Adventure Group tour guide gave a safety briefing, as Babinda Boulders is more dangerous than Josephine Falls. While it is generally safe to swim at the designated swimming holes, it is essential to be safety-conscious and avoid taking unnecessary risks. Twenty-nine people have died at Babinda Boulders after ignoring warning signs to stay clear of the fast-flowing water and slippery boulders at Devil’s Pool.
Mossman Gorge – A refreshing dip in the heart of the Daintree
A sandy beach on the Mossman River – a pretty swimming spot in Mossman Gorge.
Mossman Gorge offers a rare chance to swim in clear waters, surrounded by the lush greenery of the World Heritage-listed Daintree Rainforest. This ancient rainforest, known for its incredible biodiversity and being one of the oldest ecosystems on Earth, provides a truly unforgettable spot for a refreshing dip. Just outside Port Douglas, this part of the Mossman River is renowned for its cool, clear waters flowing over smooth granite boulders beneath a lush green canopy.
Designated swimming spots along the river let you wade in safely and cool off while surrounded by the sounds of the rainforest. The water here is fresh and invigorating – a welcome relief on a hot, humid day.
Beyond swimming, Mossman Gorge holds deep cultural significance for the Kuku Yalanji people. Visitors arrive through Mossman Gorge Centre, where they can learn about Indigenous traditions or join a guided Dreamtime Walk. It’s a place where a simple swim connects you not only to nature but also to thousands of years of living culture.
Access to the gorge is via a shuttle bus from the Mossman Gorge Centre, with services departing every 15 minutes between 8.00 am and 4.45 pm. Tickets can be bought at the centre or online in advance. This shuttle system helps to protect the natural environment and manage visitor numbers, ensuring a safe and sustainable experience for all.
Practical Information – Planning Your Rainforest Swim
Before you dive into Tropical North Queensland’s rainforest swimming holes, a little planning will make your trip smoother and more enjoyable.
How to get there
You can visit all these swimming holes on day tours from Cairns, which is a convenient option if you prefer not to self-drive. Tours typically combine multiple experiences into a single itinerary, often including transportation, a guide, and sometimes lunch. If you like flexibility, self-driving gives you the freedom to spend as long as you like at each spot.
Distances from Cairns:
Lake Eacham = 67 kilometres
Millaa Millaa Falls = 101 kilometres
Josephine Falls car park = 75 kilometres
Babinda Boulders = 65 kilometres
Mossman Gorge Centre = 78 kilometres
Best time to go
The dry season (May to October) is the most comfortable time to visit, with warm days, lower humidity, and clear conditions for swimming. The wet season (November to April) brings heavy rain and stronger currents, which can make some spots unsafe, though the waterfalls are at their most dramatic.
Always check local conditions before swimming.
Essentials to bring
Swimmers and a towel
Hat
Sunscreen
Sturdy, reliable footwear
Drinking water
Insect repellent
Camera and waterproof phone case
Tour versus independent travel
Day tours are stress-free and great if you’re short on time, as everything is organised for you. Sadly, day tours can often feel rushed. However, with the two tours I took – “Waterfall Wanderers Tour” with Cairns Adventure Group and “Mossman Gorge, Daintree and Wildlife” with Tropic Wings Cairns Tour – the pace was relaxed and unhurried. Self-driving provides more freedom, but it requires careful planning and navigation. Either way, always respect signage, stay in designated swimming spots, and leave no trace behind.
Swimming in Tropical North Queensland’s rainforest isn’t just about cooling off – it’s about connecting with an ancient landscape that feels powerful and alive. Each swimming hole I visited had its own character: the calm serenity of Lake Eacham, the picture-perfect plunge at Millaa Millaa Falls, the playful rock slide at Josephine Falls, the sacred beauty of Babinda Boulders, and the crisp mountain waters of Mossman Gorge.
If I had to choose a favourite, Josephine Falls captured my sense of adventure, while Mossman Gorge connected me with the world’s oldest rainforest. Whichever you visit, you’ll leave with memories of swims unlike anywhere else in the world.
So pack your swimmers, respect the land and its cultural significance, and get ready to dive into the cool, clear waters of Tropical North Queensland’s rainforest – it’s an experience you won’t forget.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
My Ultimate Photo Guided Walk of the Roman Ruins in Mérida, Spain Wandering the streets of Mérida, Spain, is like stepping back in time to the height of the…
My Ultimate Photo Guided Walk of the Roman Ruins in Mérida, Spain
Wandering the streets of Mérida, Spain, is like stepping back in time to the height of the Roman Empire. Founded in 25 BC as Augusta Emerita, Mérida was one of the most important cities in Roman Hispania, and today it is home to some of the most extensive and best-preserved Roman ruins in Spain. Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the city is a treasure trove of ancient monuments, including a spectacular Roman theatre, a grand amphitheatre, the Temple of Diana, the Arch of Trajan, and one of the longest surviving Roman bridges in the world.
This guide to walking around the Roman ruins of Mérida provides a self-guided itinerary allowing you to explore the city’s most iconic ancient sites on foot. Whether you’re a history buff, an architecture enthusiast, or a photographer, this Mérida walking tour offers an unforgettable journey through temples, arches, bridges, and archaeological treasures.
Lace up your walking shoes, grab your camera, and discover why Mérida is one of the must-visit destinations in Spain for anyone fascinated by ancient history.
Why Visit the Roman Ruins of Mérida, Spain – A UNESCO World Heritage City
If you’re keen to experience the grandeur of ancient Rome without leaving Spain, Mérida is the place to visit. The city, known as Augusta Emerita, was founded by Emperor Augustus in 25 BC as the capital of the Roman province of Lusitania. Its strategic position on the banks of the Guadiana River made it a hub for trade, governance, and military activity in the Western Roman Empire.
Today, Mérida is the capital of the Extremadura region in western Spain, a vibrant modern city with around 60,000 residents. Yet, it retains the feel of an open-air museum because of its remarkable collection of Roman monuments, which earned the city UNESCO World Heritage status in 1993. Here, you can stand in the same amphitheatre where gladiators once fought, walk across a two-thousand-year-old bridge, and marvel at temples, arches, and mosaics that have survived centuries of change – all within the city centre.
Unlike many archaeological sites tucked away in remote locations, Mérida’s treasures are woven into the fabric of the modern city. You can easily explore them on foot, allowing you to immerse yourself in history at every turn – whether you’re wandering past the Temple of Diana, stopping at the Arch of Trajan, or enjoying the sweeping views from the Roman Theatre’s stone seats.
With its mix of ancient history, walkable streets, and easy access, Mérida provides travellers a rare opportunity to immerse themselves in the Roman world without leaving the Iberian Peninsula.
How to See the Roman Ruins of Mérida on a Self-Guided Walking Tour
One of the best things about visiting Mérida, Spain, is how compact and walkable the historic centre is. Most of the city’s Roman monuments are within a short stroll of each other, making it easy to explore at your own pace without needing a bus tour or guide.
A self-guided walking tour lets you set your own schedule, linger at your favourite spots, and take photos without being rushed. You’ll be able to follow the city’s ancient story as you move from one site to the next, with each stop revealing a new layer of its Roman past.
Begin your walk at the Roman Theatre and Amphitheatre, the city’s most famous landmarks. From there, you can follow a logical loop that takes in temples, arches, bridges, and archaeological sites before finishing at the National Museum of Roman Art (highly recommended).
Mérida’s Roman Ruins Walking Route Map. (Map data @2025 Google)
Many of Mérida’s Roman sites are included in a combined ticket available from the theatre’s entrance or other major monuments. This pass is an excellent value if you plan to see multiple attractions in one day. Some sites, such as the Roman Bridge, Trajan’s Arch, and the Temple of Diana, are free to visit at any time.
Spending four to six hours allows for a relaxed visit to the main Roman ruins, including time for photos, breaks, and lunch. However, I strongly recommend staying at least one night in Mérida. Several of the ruins – such as the Roman Theatre, the Roman Bridge, and the Temple of Diana – are illuminated at night, offering breathtaking views that warrant a second visit.
Seeing the illuminated Roman Bridge makes it a must to spend at least one night in Mérida.
The night lighting offers a fresh view of the Temple of Diana.
For something truly special, the International Classical Theatre Festival of Mérida takes place annually from June to August. During the festival, the Roman Theatre serves as the stage for a variety of theatrical productions, where performances are held every night, in the same place they were held more than two thousand years ago.
I was fortunate to be in Mérida during the city’s Classical Theatre Festival and saw a night performance at the over 2000-year-old Roman Theatre.
What to See in Mérida – A Step-by-Step Walking Itinerary
Exploring Mérida’s UNESCO-listed Roman heritage is best done on foot, with each site just a short walk from the next. This self-guided walking route begins at the Roman Theatre, Mérida’s most iconic monument in the city. It winds for about three kilometres through plazas, streets, and riverside paths to Mérida’s most impressive Roman ruins without doubling back. Along the way, you’ll see ancient arches, weathered colonnades, magnificent mosaics, and dramatic ruins as you explore from site to site, showcasing the city’s rich Roman past.
Each monument shares its story, showing how Mérida once thrived as an imperial capital. This itinerary features all the must-see spots, making sure you don’t miss any marvels as you delve into the city’s rich mix of history and architecture.
Roman Theatre – Spain’s most iconic ancient landmark
The Roman Theatre is Mérida’s most visited monument. It is a true treasure that will transport you back to ancient Lusitania.
The Roman Theatre is Mérida’s most celebrated archeological landmark and one of the finest surviving theatres of the ancient world. Constructed around 16-15 BC, this remarkably well-preserved theatre could seat 6,000 spectators. In its day, it was the centre for drama, music, political speeches, and public gatherings, reflecting the cultural sophistication of Roman Augusta Emerita. It is still used for performances during Mérida’s Classical Theatre Festival.
The theatre’s most striking feature is its two-tiered stage backdrop, decorated with marble columns and statues of Roman gods and emperors. The seating area is carved into the hillside, providing excellent acoustics.
Roman Amphitheatre – gladiators and games
Mérida’s Roman Amphitheatre hosted gladiatorial fights and battles between men and beasts or between beasts themselves.
Next to the Roman Theatre is the Roman Amphitheatre, where gladiators once fought each other and wild animals for public entertainment. Built in 8 BC, with an oval shape typical of Roman amphitheatres, it could hold about 15,000 spectators.
The arena floor once featured a wooden platform covering an underground passage where fighters and animals waited their turn in the spotlight. Today, excavated sections of the arena reveal the central pit used in these spectacles. The stone seating tiers, though partly eroded, still rise in a semicircle, providing a sense of scale to the venue.
Arched corridor entrances provided access to the stands, and rooms beneath the stands were used either as cages for wild animals or where gladiators got ready for battle.
View of the Roman Theatre, taken from the Roman Amphitheatre.
House of the Amphitheatre – Roman villas, mosaics, and gardens
This intricate mosaic floor in the House of the Amphitheatre is thought to be in the house’s dining room.
The House of the Amphitheatre is one of Mérida’s most fascinating archaeological sites, offering an intimate glimpse into the lives of wealthy Romans nearly 2,000 years ago. Situated just outside the Roman Amphitheatre, this extensive residential complex spans from the end of the 3rd century BC to the beginning of the 5th century AD, showcasing the architectural sophistication of the period.
Excavations have uncovered stunning mosaic floors, detailed wall paintings, and rooms arranged around a central colonnaded courtyard. Evidence of an underfloor heating system in the private baths highlights the owner’s high social status. Archaeologists believe it was home to an influential family, possibly linked to the city’s entertainment or political elite.
In the House of the Amphitheatre, rooms are arranged around a central colonnaded courtyard.
Portico of the Forum – the Roman Forum’s grand entrance
The Portico of the Forum with its distinctive Corinthian columns.
Once the entrance to the Roman Forum, the Portico of the Forum serves as a reminder of Mérida’s role as the administrative hub of the Roman province of Lusitania. Constructed in the 1st century AD, this colonnaded portico once stood in front of the forum’s main square, flanked by statues of gods, emperors, and dignitaries. Although only part of the portico remains, its Corinthian columns and fragments of decorative reliefs still reflect the grandeur of Roman civic architecture.
Temple of Diana – a must-see Roman monument in the city centre
The Temple of Diana stands in the heart of Mérida’s historic centre.
Dating back to the 1st century AD and once dominating the city’s forum, the Temple of Diana is one of the best-preserved Corinthian temples in the Iberian Peninsula. Despite its name, it wasn’t dedicated to the goddess Diana but served as the imperial cult’s temple, honouring the emperor as a god.
In the 16th century, a palace was incorporated into the temple, leaving the Corinthian columns in their original rectangular formation.
Arch of Trajan – gateway to the ancient city
The Arch of Trajan, taken at night on my walk back to my hotel.
Standing at a height of 15 metres, Trajan’s Arch was neither a triumphal arch nor dedicated to the emperor Trajan. It was the monumental gateway to the sacred district that surrounded the Imperial cult temple (the Temple of Diana). Built in the late 1st or early 2nd century AD, it served as a grand entrance to the forum.
Now devoid of its marble cladding, its massive granite blocks still convey a sense of imperial grandeur.
Archaeological Zone of Morerías – layers of history by the river
A Roman house with marble floors in the Archaeological Zone of Morerías along Mérida’s Guadiana River.
The Archaeological Zone of Morerías lies beneath an apartment building along the Guadiana River. It provides a unique insight into Mérida’s layered history. Here, Roman streets, houses, and workshops coexist with later Visigothic and Moorish structures. The site spans several centuries of occupation, illustrating the city’s evolution after the fall of the Roman Empire. The visible urban layout, with its well-preserved stonework and walls, makes it easy to imagine daily life in this multi-era riverside district.
Elevated walkways allow you to view the site’s complexity from a bird’s-eye perspective.
A Roman street in the Archaeological Zone of Morerías.
Roman Bridge over the Guadiana River – the longest surviving Roman bridge
The view of Mérida’s ancient Roman Bridge from the Alcazaba best captures its length as it spans the Guadiana River.
Mérida’s Roman Bridge over the Guadiana River was built in the 1st century BC. At a length of 792 metres and with 60 arches, it is one of Spain’s longest bridges and the longest surviving Roman bridge in the world. It was a vital crossing of the Guadiana River and a strategic artery for Roman trade and military movement.
Having carried road traffic for most of its life, it was converted into a pedestrian-only bridge in 1991.
Sunset casts a golden glow on Mérida’s Roman Bridge, reflected in the Guadiana River.
The Roman Bridge illuminate at night – captured from the riverside path with the Alcazaba visible through an arch.
Alcazaba of Mérida – Moorish fortress built on Roman foundations
The Moors built the Alcazaba’s walls reusing earlier Roman stones and repurposing other materials, such as The Roman funerary urn, halfway up the closest wall to the camera.
The underground water cistern inside the Alcazaba was built by reusing Roman blocks and incorporating Roman hydraulic engineering.
Although the Alcazaba of Mérida looks entirely Moorish, much of its core fabric is Roman in origin, as Roman materials were reused when the Muslims built the fortress in 835 AD. As you explore the Alcazaba, keep an eye out for these Roman features:
Roman walls and foundations,
Roman road,
Roman water cistern, and
Roman stones in the fortress walls.
Climb its walls for panoramic views of the Guadiana River and the Roman Bridge.
National Museum of Roman Art in Mérida – Mosaics, Sculptures, and Artefacts
The main hall of Mérida’s National Museum of Roman Art, featuring a column from the Temple of Diana, is designed to resemble the Arch of Trajan.
The Mosaic of the Charioteers in the museum is one of the largest found in Mérida. [The lateral panels show charioteers in their chariots.]
No visit to Roman Mérida is complete without stepping inside the National Museum of Roman Art, an archaeological museum conveniently located next to the Roman Theatre and Amphitheatre complex. Designed by Spanish architect Rafael Moneo and inaugurated in 1986, the museum is an architectural masterpiece in its own right – its soaring brick arches deliberately echo the grandeur of Roman design while offering a modern, light-filled space.
Spread over three floors, inside you’ll find one of the world’s most extensive collections of Roman mosaics, alongside sculptures, tombstones, ceramics, paintings, coins, glassware, and everyday objects excavated from Mérida’s Roman sites.
It is at the National Museum of Roman Art where Mérida’s story comes full circle—linking the ruins you’ve just wandered through with the people who once called them home.
Paintings in the National Museum of Roman Art that decorated the balustrade of the podium of Mérida’s Roman amphitheatre.
National Museum of Roman Art: A Roman house discovered in the city centre, featuring an ornamental mosaic floor and murals depicting sporting and hunting scenes.
A whistle shaped like a hen is displayed in the National Museum of Roman Art, which is believed to have belonged to a child in Roman Mérida.
How to Get to Mérida
Mérida’s central location in Spain’s Extremadura region makes it easily accessible by train, bus, or car from Madrid or Seville.
To travel from Madrid to Mérida, take a Renfe train (approximately four hours) or a bus with Avanza Grupo (around five hours), both of which offer direct services.
To travel from Seville to Mérida, take a Renfe train (approximately three and a half hours) or a bus with ALSA (approximately two to three hours).
Driving gives you the most flexibility and allows you to explore Extremadura’s smaller towns and countryside. The road distance from Madrid to Mérida is 341 kilometres, while the distance from Seville to Mérida is 192 kilometres.
Walking through Mérida’s Roman ruins is like stepping back in time. From the grandeur of the theatre and amphitheatre to the quiet beauty of mosaics at the House of the Amphitheatre, every site uncovers a different chapter of life in one of the Roman Empire’s most significant provincial capitals. Few places in the world offer such a well-preserved collection of Roman monuments in a compact, walkable city.
Whether you’re a history enthusiast, photographer, or curious traveller, Mérida offers a memorable journey through layers of history that still shape the city today. Its UNESCO World Heritage status is well deserved – it’s a living museum where Roman roads, arches, bridges, and temples still shape the urban landscape.
So, if you’re planning a trip through Extremadura or southern Spain, make sure to set aside at least one day, preferably two, to explore Mérida on foot.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
5 FABULOUS DAY TRIPS FROM BARCELONA SPAIN: Your Reliable Guide. Create lasting memories! Explore beyond Barcelona and discover the breathtaking landscapes and rich history of Catalonia on five unforgettable day trips. Click on the link for inspiration.
My Senegal Highlights: The Best Things to Do in This Vibrant Country. Welcome to the vibrant and captivating country of Senegal in West Africa. During my trip to this…
My Senegal Highlights: The Best Things to Do in This Vibrant Country.
Welcome to the vibrant and captivating country of Senegal in West Africa. During my trip to this extraordinary destination, I enjoyed experiencing a diverse range of incredible attractions that truly showcase Senegal’s unique culture, natural beauty, and rich history. From historic islands and vibrant cities to peaceful nature reserves and warm coastal communities, Senegal offers a remarkable array of experiences for all travellers that’s hard to match.
This post isn’t an exhaustive list of everything to do in Senegal – it’s my top highlights. These are the 11 experiences that left a lasting impression on me, stirring emotion, sparking curiosity, and making me say, “I’m so glad I came”.
If you’re considering a visit – or just curious about what makes Senegal so special – these highlights might just inspire your next adventure.
About Senegal
Soccer is the second most popular sport in Senegal, after wrestling.
Senegal is a vibrant and culturally rich country located on the westernmost tip of Africa, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean. It is renowned for its dynamic blend of tradition, modern development, and natural beauty. Often considered one of West Africa’s most politically stable and welcoming nations, Senegal offers travellers a captivating mix of experiences – from historic sites and lively cities to stunning beaches and wildlife reserves.
The capital, Dakar, is a lively coastal metropolis renowned for its music, art, and nightlife, as well as its poignant history tied to the transatlantic slave trade, most notably at Gorée Island. Inland, visitors can explore the Great Mosque of Touba, the spiritual heart of the Mouride Brotherhood, or journey north to Saint-Louis, a UNESCO-listed colonial city with charming, faded facades.
Nature lovers will find plenty to admire, from the pink waters of Lac Rose to the birdlife at Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary and the roaming wildlife at Bandia Wildlife Reserve. The country’s coastline offers both bustling fishing towns like Kayar and peaceful resort areas along the Petite Côte.
Senegal’s rich culture is evident in its diverse ethnic groups, including the Wolof, Serer, Fulani, and Diola, each with its own distinct language, customs, and traditions. French is the official language, but Wolof is widely spoken. Renowned for its legendary teranga (hospitality), lively music and dance, tasty cuisine such as thieboudienne (a fish and rice dish), and a calendar filled with vibrant festivals, Senegal offers a truly engaging and authentic African experience.
IFAN Museum of African Arts: A Pillar of West African Cultural Heritage
Visit the IFAN Museum of African Arts in Dakar to explore one of West Africa’s oldest and most significant collections of traditional masks, sculptures, textiles, and musical instruments, offering a profound insight into the region’s rich cultural heritage.
A ceremonial mask from Guinea, to ward off dangers to the tribe.
An initiation ceremony mask from Senegal.
A Dogon ritual mask, Mali.
Established in 1936, the IFAN Museum of African Arts, officially known as the Théodore Monod African Art Museum, in Dakar, is one of the oldest and most significant art museums in West Africa.
It is a small, well-organised museum that covers all aspects of African culture, spanning centuries and regions, and is a delight to explore. I discovered exhibits of traditional clothing, carvings, musical instruments, ceremonial masks, tools, ceramics, textiles, weapons, and more. All the information plaques were in French, but I was fortunate to have a very patient guide who translated everything for me, as my schoolgirl French was insufficient to understand the written text. Had I visited the museum on my own, I would have simply been gazing at the objects without knowing the stories behind them.
Interestingly, I wasn’t allowed to take photos inside the museum with my camera, but I was allowed to do so with my mobile phone. Go figure!
During my visit, the IFAN Museum of African Arts hosted a comprehensive and brilliant exhibition that highlighted the differences and similarities among the former French West African colonies. Much of what I saw reminded me of my trip to Mali some years ago.
Visiting the IFAN Museum provides an insightful exploration of the artistic and spiritual traditions of West Africa. The artifacts on display change regularly, so even if you’ve visited before, it’s worth revisiting.
Museum of Black Civilisations: A Journey Through African Heritage and Global Dialogue
Visit the Museum of Black Civilisations in Dakar to explore a monumental celebration of African heritage and the global Black diaspora, where expansive exhibits – from ancient artifacts to contemporary art – highlight Africa’s profound contributions to world history, science, and culture.
The giant baobab tree sculpture in the entrance hall of the Museum of Black Civilisations in Dakar.
A modern interpretation of a traditional West African mask in the Museum of Black Civilisations.
The Museum of Black Civilisations, which opened on 6 December 2018, is a national museum in Dakar that traces the journey of Black civilisations from the cradle of humanity through the Iron Age, medieval empires, spiritual traditions, and the African diaspora, including slavery, resistance, and independence movements.
It is a groundbreaking cultural institution dedicated to celebrating the histories, achievements, artistic expressions, and global impact of Black civilisations across Africa. The museum’s extensive collection ranges from prehistoric tools and ancient sculptures to contemporary art and textiles, illustrating the significant contributions of African civilisations to global culture and science.
Although the information about the exhibits was written only in French, which my guide translated, I found it easy to follow and understand the timelines presented on my own.
I enjoyed the artworks on display on the museum’s upper floors. While able to discern the connection to the cultural artifacts I saw at the IFAN Museum of African Arts, these presented a modern perspective on the traditional.
The Museum of Black Civilisations was more than just its exhibitions. I found it to be an educational platform that explores Africa’s significant contributions to science, art, philosophy, and global culture, while also confronting the legacies of colonialism and the diaspora. Above all, it was a place for reflection!
Gorée Island: A Powerful Memorial to the Transatlantic Slave Trade
Gorée Island is a hauntingly powerful destination.
Visit Gorée Island to walk through a powerful chapter of history, where pastel colonial buildings and the haunting House of Slaves tell the story of West Africa’s role in the transatlantic slave trade.
Colourful colonial buildings line Gorée Island’s harbour.
Just a short ferry ride from Senegal’s capital, Dakar, Gorée Island presents a charming exterior with its pastel facades and flower-filled narrow alleys while holding a deep history of centuries of pain, resistance, and remembrance. It offers an experience that is both enchanting and emotional.
Visiting Gorée Island on a day trip from Dakar, I walked through cells once used to imprison enslaved Africans and stood before the Door of No Return, reflecting on and haunted by the lives forever changed by the transatlantic slave trade.
Gorée Island was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978 to recognise its historical significance in the slave trade and its well-preserved colonial architecture.
A visit to Gorée Island is more than just a day trip; it’s a powerful encounter with history. Visiting it offers a sobering yet vital experience that connects past injustices to ongoing discussions about identity, heritage, and the pursuit of healing.
Visit Fadiouth Island to experience a one-of-a-kind village built almost entirely on seashells, where rich cultural traditions and peaceful religious coexistence create a truly unforgettable atmosphere.
Fadiouth Island: A mosque, a Catholic church, and a street made entirely of clamshells. Note the size of the wheels on the wheelchair (pushed by the man in the red shirt) needed to roll over the shells.
Fadiouth Island is also called “Shell Island” because this small island is entirely made up of cockle (clam) shells, a result of centuries of shellfish gathering. The residents collect the cockles at low tide, remove the meat, dry it, and discard the shells on the ground. These shells form the island’s foundation, streets, buildings, and pathways, creating a uniquely strange environment. According to my local guide, the shells are three metres thick. The crunching sound when you walk means there was no sneaking up on anyone!
The island is famous for its cemetery, which is also made entirely of shells. But what truly sets this cemetery apart is its testament to religious tolerance and peaceful coexistence. Throughout Senegal, Muslims and Christians are buried in separate cemeteries. However, in Fadiouth cemetery, the graves of Muslims and Christians lie side by side in the same sacred space.
Fadiouth Island is located on the southern edge of Senegal’s Petite Côte, about 114 kilometres south of Dakar, near the town of Joal.
Fadiouth is more than a quirky geological curiosity. The warm welcome from residents, their pride in their traditions, and their harmonious mixed-faith community, along with their willingness to share stories, made this island a place like no other I have visited.
Visit Bandia Wildlife Reserve to experience an accessible West African safari, where giraffes, rhinos, zebras, ostriches, and antelopes roam freely among ancient baobab trees, all within a conservation success story just an hour from Dakar.
A white rhino, an ostrich, and a giant eland were just some of the animals seen in the Bandia Wildlife Reserve.
Just 65 kilometres south of Dakar, Bandia Wildlife Reserve is a private nature reserve covering 3,500 hectares of fenced savannah. It is a conservation success story that reintroduced native species that had been lost from the region for a long time due to poaching and habitat loss. Expect to see a diverse range of wildlife up close, such as giraffes, white rhinos, zebras, buffalo, antelopes, warthogs, monkeys, ostriches, and crocodiles – all from a hired safari vehicle or your own vehicle.
With a mix of wildlife and West African culture – think ancient baobab trees used as tombs – Bandia Wildlife Reserve is more than just a place to see native animals; it’s a testament to conservation, a visual reminder of Senegal’s diverse culture and natural beauty, and a chance to connect with the wild.
Bandia isn’t the Serengeti, but a well-managed, family-friendly reserve that brings the magic of African wildlife within easy reach of Dakar.
Visit Lac Rose (“Pink Lake”) to witness its astonishing pink waters—caused by salt-loving algae—and experience the unique buoyancy of its hypersaline lake, all just an hour from Dakar.
Lac Rose (Pink Lake).
Lac Rose (also known as Lake Retba) is a stunning natural wonder in Senegal, located approximately 35 kilometres northwest of Dakar. A shallow lake (1.5 metres deep) surrounded by dunes, it is famous for its vibrant pink waters, caused by a salt-loving algae. The lake is at its most stunning pink hue during the dry season, from November to June, when there is little rain to dilute the salt.
With a salt content higher than the Dead Sea, you won’t sink when swimming in the lake – an unusual experience. Just make sure you have no open wounds or cuts.
Lac Rose has a thriving salt harvesting industry, utilising traditional methods to collect salt from the lakebed. I watched men wade into the lake with canoe-like boats to dig up the salt, shovelling bucket loads into their boats. Once full, they pushed the boats to the shore, where they transferred the salt into metal basins. Women carried these salt-filled basins, weighing about 50 kilograms, on their heads to the salt mounds on the shore. My guide told me that the women go back and forth for three hours straight – a hard job, but well paid.
Workers collecting salt from Lac Rose.
Lac Rose is not just a visual spectacle – it’s a place where nature, culture, and industry come together in vivid colour. Whether you’re drawn by its beauty, its stories, or its salt-laden waters, it’s a destination that leaves a lasting impression.
The combination of the pink lake, salt collection, salt mounds, and dunes provided me with numerous opportunities to capture exceptional and memorable photos.
Before leaving the area, my driver let some air out of the tyres for a thrilling drive over the dunes to the wild Atlantic coast.
Kayar: Senegal’s Vibrant Fishing Community
Visit Kayar to witness the vibrant rhythm of one of Senegal’s largest artisanal fishing centres, where colourful pirogues line the golden shores, and the daily catch drives rich cultural traditions and coastal life.
Kayar Fishing Harbour – Selling the morning’s catch directly from the boat.
Kayar is a lively coastal town about 60 kilometres north of Dakar. Best known as the country’s third-largest and most self-regulated artisanal fishing centre, Kayar is a place where the Atlantic Ocean, quite literally, feeds daily life. Each morning, Kayar’s beach transforms into a vibrant, open-air fish market where I had the opportunity to witness the local fishing culture firsthand.
Kayar was a hive of activity and a kaleidoscope of colour from hundreds of hand-painted, vividly coloured wooden pirogues (traditional fishing boats), each bearing unique family symbols. The boats, laden with fish, come to the beach and anchor onshore. Men go to the boats, buy the fish directly from the captains, and then sell the fish to the people waiting on the beach. And then it’s back out to sea for another catch.
The larger pirogues can carry a crew of 30 fishermen, who fish manually. The captain sets the price of the fish, based on the type of fish and how long it took to catch.
Boat building is a related industry along Kayar’s beach and is worth a visit – if you can drag yourself away from the activity along the shoreline – with the boats being handmade.
I didn’t explore the town itself but spent my time on the beach watching traditional practices in action. I can only describe it as a thrilling experience – one that should not be missed when visiting Senegal.
Kayar is not about luxury or arranged experiences – it’s about immersion. It’s where you witness the rhythm of life shaped by the tides, and where resilience and tradition meet in every haul of the net.
Saint-Louis, Senegal: A Timeless Island of Culture, History, and Charm
Visit Saint-Louis to soak up the charm of Senegal’s former colonial capital, where faded French architecture, a rich trading history, and a thriving arts scene come together on an island at the mouth of the Senegal River.
Saint-Louis’ French colonial architecture sets a backdrop for its fishing fleet.
Saint-Louis is an island and a city at the mouth of the Senegal River, 234 kilometres north of Dakar, near the border with Mauritania. It is connected to the mainland by the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Faidherbe Bridge, designed by Gustave Eiffel and opened to the public in 1897.
Faidherbe Bridge, designed by Gustave Eiffel, connects Saint-Louis to the mainland.
Founded in 1659 by the French, Saint Louis was the first French settlement in West Africa and served as the capital of French West Africa until the early 20th century. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is celebrated for its unique blend of faded pastel-coloured colonial buildings, vibrant street life, artistic flair, traditional fishing communities, and its famous jazz festival.
After settling into my hotel, I joined my guide to explore Saint Louis in a traditional caleche (horse-drawn cart). Though a very ‘touristy’ activity, it was a practical way to see much of the city in a short time and soak up its atmosphere. Later, I walked back to the areas I had seen on the caleche and wanted to revisit. I especially enjoyed wandering around the quaysides and poking my head into artists’ workshops.
Saint-Louis is more than just a place to visit. It’s where history hangs in the air and creativity flows like the river that surrounds it.
Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary: A Wetland Wonderland for Bird Lovers
Visit Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary to see one of the world’s most important wetland reserves, where more than 400 bird species – including immeasurable flocks of pelicans – gather in a serene UNESCO-listed habitat just north of Saint-Louis.
Pelicans in Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary were continuously taking off and landing.
Located 53 kilometres north of Saint-Louis, Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most important bird sanctuaries in the world. Opening in 1971 and spanning 16,000 hectares within the Senegal River delta, this wetland ecosystem comprises a network of lakes, streams, ponds, and backwaters.
Serving as a critical stopover for migratory birds crossing the Sahara, Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary hosts over 1.5 million birds annually, including more than 365 species such as white pelicans, flamingos, African spoonbills, great egrets, and cormorants. The optimal visiting period is from November to April, aligning with the peak migratory season, when birds arrive in staggering numbers.
I got to witness the migratory spectacle of white pelicans on a two-hour guided boat tour, with hundreds of pelicans gathered near the reeds, landing in the water, or taking flight in search of a less crowded resting spot. At one point, the pelicans streaked across the sky and down the waterway like planes on a bombing raid. It reminded me of the 1955 film The Dam Busters, as wave after wave of pelicans flew over our heads and to the side of the boat. A truly wondrous sight!
I saw at least a dozen bird species – and they’re just the ones I can remember. On our way back to the jetty, we motored past an island jam-packed with grey-coloured baby pelicans. According to the Djoudj guide, these babies were one and a half months old, and they don’t learn to fly until four months old. I saw some baby pelicans swimming in lines of three abreast, close to the island. It looked like a swimming school!
Djoudj is more than a bird sanctuary – it’s a living, breathing ecosystem that offers a front-row seat to one of nature’s most awe-inspiring migrations. Whether you’re a seasoned birder or a curious traveller, it’s a place that leaves you wanting more.
The Great Mosque of Touba: Spiritual Heart of Senegal’s Mouride Brotherhood
Visit the Great Mosque of Touba to experience one of Africa’s largest and most sacred Islamic sites – a stunning architectural masterpiece and spiritual centre of the Mouride Brotherhood, where the legacy of its founder, Sheikh Ahmadou Bamba, draws millions of pilgrims each year.
Beautiful Moroccan tiles decorate the interior of the Great Mosque of Touba.
Two of the Great Mosque of Touba’s five minarets.
The Great Mosque of Touba is an architectual marvel.
The Great Mosque of Touba, in the holy city of Touba, about 200 kilometres east of Dakar, is one of the most iconic religious landmarks in West Africa. Built in 1887 and continually expanded since then, the mosque is the holiest site for the Mouride Brotherhood, a powerful Sufi Islamic order. It houses the tomb of their founder, Sheikh Ahmadou Bamba.
The mosque is an impressive architectural marvel with five minarets, three large domes, and a prayer hall that accommodates over 7,000 worshipers. The interiors feature beautiful Italian terrazzo floors, Moroccan tiles, and handmade carpets.
The mosque is open to non-Muslims outside prayer times. I was provided with a long wrap-skirt and a scarf to wear during my visit.
Touba is a dry city where alcohol, tobacco, music, and dancing are prohibited to maintain its sanctity and devotion.
Visiting the Great Mosque of Touba is not just a cultural experience – it’s a profound encounter with Senegal’s spiritual soul, where faith, architecture, and community converge in harmony.
Kunta Kinteh Island: A Haunting Legacy on the Gambia River
Visit Kunta Kinteh Island to confront the haunting legacy of the transatlantic slave trade at a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where the ruins of Fort James and surrounding landmarks stand as solemn reminders of the resilience of those who endured unimaginable hardships.
The ruins of Fort James on Kunta Kinteh Island – a key site in the transatlantic slave trade.
The Gambia, located on the Atlantic coast, is a narrow country within the borders of Senegal, and is not much wider than the Gambia River, which shapes its geography. I took a day trip to The Gambia to visit Kunta Kinteh Island, crossing the border at Kartong.
Previously known as James Island, Kunta Kinteh Island is a small yet historically significant site located 30 kilometres upstream from the mouth of the Gambia River in The Gambia. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the island was a key site in the transatlantic slave trade. It housed a fort (Fort James) used by various European powers – Portuguese, Dutch, and British – for the capture, storage, and shipment of enslaved Africans bound for the Americas. Today, its crumbling walls and solitary prison cell stand as haunting reminders of centuries of human suffering.
Kunta Kinteh Island can be reached by boat from Juffureh.
The island was renamed in 2011 to honour Kunta Kinte, the enslaved Gambian man whose story was popularised in Alex Haley’s book Roots. Although fictionalised, the story reflects the real experiences of many Africans forcibly taken from this region. All enslaved Africans captured in The Gambia were imprisoned on Kunta Kinteh Island before being loaded onto the slave ships docked there.
Kunta Kinteh Island is not just a place – it’s a profoundly moving and reflective experience. As with Gorée Island, I felt a connection with the painful legacy of slavery and the enduring spirit of those who lived through it – something I did not expect to feel.
When planning my trip to West Africa (Benin, Togo, Ghana, The Gambia, and Senegal), I was ignorant of the extent of the slave trade in the region. What I saw, read, and heard has left a profound emotional impact that remains deeply ingrained in my memory. The resilience of people never ceases to amaze me.
I was required to show proof of my yellow fever vaccination for entry into The Gambia.
General Travel Tips for Senegal
I travelled around Senegal with a private guide and driver. However, according to my guide, it is possible to get around independently without a guide and driver or on a group tour. While there are no trains in Senegal, there is a public bus system that connects towns. Taxis are not expensive, and you can bargain for the fare.
French is the official language of Senegal, but Wolof is the most widely spoken. English is not commonly spoken, and I was hard-pressed to get by in Senegal with my schoolgirl French. Luckily, my private guide spoke excellent English and was happy to translate whenever needed. I found using Google Translate to be an exasperating experience, especially when trying to decipher menus with my camera. I was never sure what I was ordering!
Due to its tropical climate, Senegal experiences a warm climate throughout the year, characterised by two distinct seasons: a dry season, which lasts roughly from November to June, and a wet season from July to October. The dry season is considered the best time to visit, as it offers warm, sunny days with lower humidity and cooler nights. It is perfect for visiting places like Saint-Louis, Gorée Island, Bandia Wildlife Reserve, and Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary. Avoid the wet season when heavy rains and high humidity can make travel unpleasant.
I visited Senegal in February and experienced temperatures from the mid-20s to the low 30s (degrees Celsius), depending on where I was in the country, with no rainfall. The weather plays a crucial role in your enjoyment of your trip. Knowing the long-range city weather forecasts beforehand can help you avoid disappointment. When planning my trips, my go-to resource is the World Meteorological Organisation’s (WMO) World Weather Information Services. Check my blog post for details on WMO.
Be prepared for things to move at a slower pace – patience is the key. Having lived in Namibia for several years, I came to know what I call “African time”!
The currency is the West African CFA franc. Cash is king! Many places don’t accept cards, and ATMs can be unreliable. I prepaid all my hotels before leaving Australia.
Senegal is predominantly a Muslim country, so dress modestly.
As I reflect on my time spent exploring the wonders of Senegal, I am filled with a sense of awe and gratitude for the incredible experiences I had the privilege of encountering. From the soul-stirring history etched into Gorée Island to the spiritual serenity of the Great Mosque of Touba, and from the lively atmosphere of Kayar’s fishing harbour to the tranquil, shell-laden streets of Fadiouth Island, Senegal has left an indelible mark on my heart and soul. The 11 attractions I have shared with you in this blog post offer just a glimpse into the beauty and diversity that Senegal has to offer.
I hope this journey through Senegal has inspired you to include this remarkable country in your travel plans. Whether you are drawn to the history, culture, nature, or the warm hospitality of the Senegalese people, I can assure you that a trip to Senegal will be a truly unforgettable experience. So, pack your bags, open your heart to new adventures, and get ready to be immersed in the magic of Senegal, where every corner holds a story waiting to be discovered.
A visit to Senegal is not just a travel destination – it’s a transformative journey that will stay with you long after you have returned home.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. Unless specifically credited, all photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
Which of these Senegalese highlights sparks your wanderlust the most? Let me know in the comments below!
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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
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A UNIQUE DAY TRIP: The Haunting Memory of Gorée Island. Visiting Gorée Island is more than just a day trip to a picturesque destination with vibrant colonial architecture; it’s a profound encounter with a history filled with centuries of pain, resistance, and remembrance. A must-visit spot!
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Do As a Local: Walk the Railway Line from Ella to Demodara in Sri Lanka’s Beautiful Hill Country. Sri Lanka’s Hill Country is renowned for its emerald-green tea plantations,…
Do As a Local: Walk the Railway Line from Ella to Demodara in Sri Lanka’s Beautiful Hill Country.
Sri Lanka’s Hill Country is renowned for its emerald-green tea plantations, misty mountains, and winding railway lines that cut through the landscape. While most visitors enjoy the famous train journey from Ella to Kandy – described as one of the most scenic in the world – from the comfort of a carriage, there’s another way to experience a section of this picturesque route – on foot, as the locals do.
Walking along the railway line from Ella to Demodara is a route that, though mentioned in some guidebooks, is far more frequented by locals than tourists and provides a unique insight into local life. It’s an adventure that leads you past quiet villages, small farms, family vegetable and fruit stalls beside the tracks, lush tea estates, and through a dark tunnel that opens onto the iconic Nine Arch Bridge. It’s a walk that offers spectacular scenery and a rare glimpse into everyday life in the Hill Country.
On our visit to Ella, my sister, brother-in-law, and I walked the railway line to Demodara. Join me as I share our story about travelling like a local in Sri Lanka.
While staying in Sri Lanka’s pretty hill town of Ella with my sister and brother-in-law, my sister decided that walking the 3 kilometres along the railway line from Ella to the iconic Nine Arch Bridge would be an adventure. From there, we would choose whether to walk back to Ella or continue a further 3.5 kilometres along the railway line to Demodara train station, catching the Kandy-Colombo train back to Ella.
Knowing the train schedules for the Kandy to Colombo line was vital to our preparation for this walk. For your own safety, check the Timetable/Schedule for the Demodara to Ella and Ella to Demodara train times because you don’t want to be caught in a tunnel with a train.
With all in agreement and knowing the expected time a train would likely cross the Nine Arch Bridge and what time the train departs Demodara, we set off after an early breakfast for our possible 6.5-kilometre walk.
We joined the railway line at a point behind our hotel, Mountain Heavens – about a five to ten-minute walk before reaching Ella Station.
Just after stepping onto the railway line, we were confronted with a large sign stating, “WALK ON THE RAILWAY LINE IS PROHIBITED”. I had a moment of panic when I saw this sign, but I took reassurance from the knowledge that the hotel manager and guidebooks had suggested the railway walk as a “must-do” in Ella. And some local young women were walking towards us on the railway line.
The sign advising that walking on the railway line is prohibited was located near where we joined the railway line.
I completely dismissed the ‘prohibited’ sign when, about five metres further down the line, there was another sign advising that walking the railway line was dangerous. Evidently, the authorities had given up telling people that walking the line was prohibited. I relaxed. ‘Dangerous’, I could handle. I noted that neither of these signs fazed my sister and brother-in-law.
Walking along the railway line, we soon established a rhythm as we bounced from sleeper to sleeper. Along the way, we greeted locals using the railway line to get from A to B on foot, admired the fresh fruits and vegetables for sale at makeshift stalls beside the railway tracks, and breathed in the views of tea bushes climbing the hills.
Walking along the railway line from Ella to Demodara offers panoramic views of lush tea plantations.
Remember that ‘dangerous’ sign we saw shortly after stepping onto the railway line? Well, ‘dangerous’ became a not-so-friendly companion again as we entered a tunnel where seeing any light at the other end was impossible. [Tip: Take a torch.] Blindly feeling my way through the tunnel with my feet on the railway track, I wondered aloud what we should do if a train came while we were in the tunnel. Luckily, my brother-in-law had been thinking ahead and consulted our hotel manager to find out when we might come face-to-face with a train from Demodara.
Feeling relatively safe in the knowledge I was not about to be squished by a train, the walk through the tunnel became a devil-may-care adventure filled with excess adrenaline running rampant through my body.
I might not have felt quite as safe and may have run out of adrenaline if I had known the tunnel opened directly onto the Nine Arch Bridge.
Exiting the tunnel onto the iconic Nine Arch Bridge.
Walking the railway line across the Nine Arch Bridge.
The Nine Arch Bridge, also known as the Bridge in the Sky, is one of the most iconic and photographed landmarks in the Hill Country. This engineering stone marvel spans a lush, green valley filled with tropical vegetation and tea plantations.
The Nine Arch Bridge is an impressive viaduct that lives up to its iconic status.
We had timed our arrival at the Nine Arch Bridge in time to watch the Kandy-Ella train cross the bridge – a picture-postcard moment that draws photographers and travellers worldwide.
Visiting the Nine Arch Bridge is touted as a must-do attraction in Sri Lanka. You can get to the Bridge by taking a tuk-tuk from Ella or walking through the jungle. Or do as the locals do and walk along the railway line. Take the path less travelled.
The Kandy-Ella train coming from Demodara approaches the Nine Arch Bridge.
Trains in Sri Lanka are not known for running on time, with at least 50% experiencing delays. However, the expected Kandy-Ella train was on time and came down the line just after we crossed the bridge. Stepping off the tracks, I enthusiastically waved to the driver and all the passengers to convey our expert timing.
The Nine Arch Bridge is the midway point between Ella and Demodara stations. Having gotten this far, we decided to continue our walk along the railway line to Demodara to catch the train back to Ella. I was on a mission now, to reach Demodara Station in time to catch the train, as I was not walking the 6.5 kilometres back to Ella.
We made it to Demodara Station 35 minutes before the train’s arrival but weren’t allowed to purchase our train tickets immediately, being told to wait until 10 minutes before the train was due. No explanation was forthcoming as to why this was so. However, as Demodara was such a pretty station, with its many potted flowering plants lining the platform, we were happy to wait to be ‘allowed’ to buy our train tickets. When I returned to the ticketing window, I thought I had misheard when I was told that three one-way tickets from Demodara to Ella cost 30 Sri Lankan rupees (the equivalent of 30 Australian cents – ten cents each). I was so impressed with how cheap the trip was that I paid for my sister’s and brother-in-law’s tickets.
Waiting at Demodara Station for the train back to Ella.
We got on the train, only to find it practically empty. This was not what I had expected, which made choosing a seat difficult due to too many options. Which seat would give me the best view of the scenery as it passed by outside the window? Ultimately, I chose to stand in the doorway like a local.
Although short-lived, the train ride was fun and the highlight of my day. Anyone would think I had never ridden a train before!
The train on the Nine Arch Bridge approaches the tunnel we had so recently walked through.
Guidebooks promote the walk along the railway line as a must-do activity in Ella. However, we encountered no other tourists besides those on the bridge. Is it too far off the beaten track for most tourists? We were the only non-locals walking the line.
To my surprise, the walk was effortless. I had expected the railway line to climb the hills around us, but it was flat all the way, and I soon fell into a rhythm as I loped from sleeper to sleeper. The endless views of tea plantations, tropical vegetation, valleys, villages, and mountains made for a delightful walk. And the company was great too – not a single disagreement!
One of the villages we viewed from the train on the ride from Demodara to Ella.
If you’re looking to step off the typical tourist trail, walking the railway line from Ella to Demodara is a simple but unforgettable way to do it. It’s not polished or packaged – it’s just real, everyday Sri Lankan life, with tea-scented air and friendly waves from locals.
While tourists ride the train or hire a tuk-tuk to see the iconic Nine Arch Bridge, we approached it the local way – on foot, through tea fields and tunnels, accompanied by birdsong and fresh mountain air.
Heading back to Ella on the train, we reflected on our experience of a side of Sri Lanka many tourists miss – a peaceful, authentic journey shared with friendly locals, far from the usual tourist bustle. This walk was a testament to the magic of stepping off the well-trodden path and embracing the unexpected. If you’re seeking an adventure that combines scenery with genuine cultural immersion, I can’t recommend this railway line walk enough. It’s an opportunity to truly travel like a local and create memories that will last a lifetime.
Editor’s Note: I originally published this blog post in January 2019 and updated it in September 2022. I have again updated it for accuracy, thoroughness, and relevance.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
Given Ella Station’s ‘prohibited’ and ‘dangerous’ signs, would you have walked the railway line?
I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.
Like this post? Save it for later!
Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
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Are you seeking additional ideas for your trip to Sri Lanka? Then don’t miss these posts:
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Discover Why Bandia Wildlife Reserve Gave Me a Better Safari Experience Than Some of Africa’s Largest National Parks – All in Two Hours! Senegal is unlikely to make your…
Discover Why Bandia Wildlife Reserve Gave Me a Better Safari Experience Than Some of Africa’s Largest National Parks – All in Two Hours!
Senegal is unlikely to make your list when considering a safari in Africa. Yet just an hour’s drive from the bustling capital of Dakar, you’ll discover Bandia Wildlife Reserve – home to reintroduced species such as giraffes, rhinos, zebras, and antelopes, offering visitors a chance to see African wildlife in a semi-natural environment. I was thrilled to find such a variety of wildlife in a country where I hadn’t expected to encounter such a setting until it appeared in my travel research. I was surprised in the best possible way!
Whether you’re a nature enthusiast, a photography buff, or someone searching for a unique day trip, Bandia Wildlife Reserve provides a memorable experience combining Senegalese landscapes, history, and conservation into a single accessible adventure.
Join me as I share my unforgettable safari through Bandia Wildlife Reserve.
About Bandia Wildlife Reserve
Located just 65 kilometres south of Dakar, Bandia Wildlife Reserve was established in 1990 as Senegal’s first private nature reserve. Covering 3,500 hectares of fenced savannah, it’s a conservation success story that reintroduced native species long lost from the region due to poaching and habitat loss.
You can expect to see a diverse range of wildlife, including:
giraffes,
white rhinoceroses,
zebras,
antelopes (such as elands and impalas),
monkeys (patas and vervet),
warthogs,
crocodiles,
ostriches, and
over 120 bird species.
One of Bandia Wildlife Reserve’s unique aspects is its blend of wildlife and West African culture. Scattered throughout the reserve are reconstructed Serer burial mounds, traditional Peulh huts, and an ancient baobab tree once used as a tomb for griots (Senegal’s revered oral historians).
Bandia Wildlife Reserve’s landscape is straight out of an African nature documentary – think towering baobab trees, wide-open plains, and clusters of acacia trees that provide shade to wandering herds. Bandia’s founders have created a balanced ecosystem that’s both welcoming to wildlife and inviting for visitors.
Exploring Bandia Wildlife Reserve is typically done via guided 4WD safari tours, allowing close encounters with wildlife in their natural habitats. The reserve features a restaurant and bar overlooking a waterhole, where you can relax and observe animals like buffalo and crocodiles. There is also an excellent souvenir shop.
Are you a wildlife enthusiast, a photographer, or looking for a family-friendly adventure? Bandia Wildlife Reserve offers an unforgettable experience that feels worlds away yet is incredibly accessible.
The Safari Experience
You can tour Bandia Wildlife Reserve in your own car, by taxi, or hire an on-site open-sided safari truck (reservations aren’t necessary), seating 8-24 people. However, a 4WD is crucial during wet weather.
I was in Senegal on a private tour with a guide and driver in a 4WD vehicle. I travelled through the Bandia Wildlife Reserve in this vehicle. Whether you opt for your own vehicle, taxi, or the reserve’s safari truck, hiring one of Bandia’s specially trained guides is mandatory. These guides are skilled at spotting wildlife and knowledgeable about Bandia’s history, conservation efforts, and cultural heritage.
Driving around Bandia Wildlife Reserve, I was thrilled by how often I spotted animals and birds and the diversity of what I encountered.
I’ve been on safari in several of Africa’s larger, open-range national parks and loved the adventure they offer. However, the vastness of these landscapes can mean hours of driving without a single sighting. In contrast, my experience at Bandia Wildlife Reserve was uniquely different. Within two hours, I encountered an impressive range of wildlife – giraffes, zebras, rhinos, antelope, monkeys, ostriches, and more – with hardly a moment of stillness between sightings. While Bandia may not have the scale or remoteness of the big-name parks, there’s something to be said for a small, well-managed, enclosed reserve where animals roam freely but are easier to find. It didn’t feel staged; instead, it felt intimate and rewarding – ideal for travellers seeking a rich safari experience without the long waits or need for multiple game drives.
My wildlife safari photo gallery
A white rhino rests in the shade of a tree.
A lone giant eland (also known as the Derby eland or Lord Derby’s eland) stands proud in the African bush. It is the largest species of antelope in the world.
A warthog drinks from a waterhole. My Bandia Wildlife Reserve guide told me they are the only animals that can get in and out of the reserve because they burrow under the fencing.
A zebra wanders past boxthorn bushes.
Male ostriches have black feathers, while females have grey feathers. Male ostriches can be quite aggressive, especially during the mating season.
A male and female giraffe.
The Abyssinian roller, also known as the Senegal roller, has vivid blue body feathers and impressively long outer tail feathers. It is, without a doubt, a stunning bird.
A spotted hyena. The hyenas in Bandia Wildlife Reserve are kept in an enclosure because they were killing the animals.
Cultural and Historical Highlights
The Bandia Wildlife Reserve showcases wildlife and honours Senegal’s rich cultural heritage.
During the drive, my safari guide showed me a one-thousand-year-old sacred baobab tree used historically as a tomb for griots, the traditional West African keepers of knowledge and oral tradition. Baobab trees were considered sacred by the Serer people and regarded as a fitting place for the remains of the griots, who were revered as wise men and sages.
Deceased griots were placed in the hollow trunks of baobab trees rather than being buried in the ground to ensure their knowledge remained accessible and didn’t get lost in the earth. This practice has been outlawed since 1962 due to public health concerns. Nevertheless, the baobab trees still hold sacred significance for the local population.
The one-thousand-year-old sacred baobab tree – an ancient tomb for griots inside Bandia Wildlife Reserve (a practice now banned). There were human skulls inside the hollow of the tree. However, I suspect they were placed there for the benefit of tourists.
Practical Information
Opening hours
Bandia Wildlife Reserve is open daily from 8.00 am to 6.00 pm.
Ticket prices
Adults: 12,000 FCFA (West African CFA Franc) (approximately €18,50)
Children (under 12 years): 7,000 FCFA franc (approximately €10,50)
Vehicle entry (personal car or taxi): 7,000 FCFA (approximately €15)
Guide per vehicle (mandatory): 6,500 FCFA (approximately €10)
You can make payments in FCFA, Euros, or by credit card.
On-site facilities
Bandia Wildlife Reserve has a large on-site restaurant overlooking a waterhole teeming with Nile crocodiles. I didn’t eat there as I was having lunch at Lac Rose (Pink Lake), so I can’t comment on the quality of the food on the menu.
Two Nile crocodiles rest on the banks of the waterhole that Bandia Wildlife Reserve’s restaurant overlooks.
An excellent, upmarket, boutique-style souvenir shop is in the same building as the restaurant. I wanted to buy a book on Bandia Wildlife Reserve, but unfortunately, they were only in French.
Best time to visit
Senegal is situated at Africa’s westernmost point, along the Atlantic Ocean. It experiences a tropical climate with two distinct seasons: a dry season from November to June and a wet season from July to October. Temperatures remain warm to hot throughout the year, averaging about 36 degrees Celsius.
I always recommend visiting a wildlife park in Africa during the dry season because the animals are drawn to the waterholes.
For optimal wildlife viewing, visit during the cooler hours of the morning or late afternoon, as animals tend to be more active at these times than in the heat of the midday period.
How to Get to Bandia Wildlife Reserve
Bandia Wildlife Reserve is easily accessible by car from the capital, Dakar, and Saly’s resort area. Except for the last 800 metres, the roads are sealed, well-signposted, and in good condition.
From Dakar (approximately 65 kilometres):
-> Head south on the A1 motorway from Dakar.
-> After approximately 60 kilometres, take Exit 14 toward Sindia/Popeguine.
-> Continue for 2 kilometres, then turn right onto National Road N1 (Dakar-Mbour).
-> Drive 3.3 kilometres on N1, then turn left at the signpost indicating Bandia Wildlife Reserve.
-> Continue on the unsealed track for 800 metres to reach the reserve entrance.
From Saly (approximately 15 kilometres):
-> Head north from Saly on National Road N1 toward Sindia.
-> After approximately 15 kilometres, watch for the signpost to Bandia Wildlife Reserve and turn right.
-> Continue on the unsealed track for 800 metres to reach the reserve entrance.
If you’re not driving, you can organise a private transfer or book a guided tour, typically from Dakar or Saly, that includes transport, park entry, and a safari guide. You can book half-day and full-day tours to Bandia Wildlife Reserve with companies like Viator, GetYourGuide, and ToursByLocals (all of which I’ve used on other trips and found to be excellent). The full-day tours are usually combined with other attractions, such as Pink Lake.
My visit to Bandia Wildlife Reserve was, without a doubt, a highlight of my time in Senegal. It’s more than just a place to see animals; it’s a testament to conservation, a visual reminder of Senegal’s diverse natural beauty, and a chance to reconnect with the wild. It’s an easily manageable day trip that packs a punch, offering a genuine taste of safari life without having to venture deep into other parts of Africa.
Whether you’re a seasoned safari-goer or just seeking something different to do, Bandia Wildlife Reserve provides an accessible and remarkably rewarding experience. So, if you find yourself in Senegal, make time for this magical encounter – it left me with lasting memories, stunning photos, and a deeper appreciation for Senegal’s hidden natural treasures.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
Have you ever visited a smaller wildlife reserve like Bandia? Did it surprise you compared to the big-name safari parks? I’d love to hear about your experiences – share them in the comments below!
I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.
Like this post? Save it for later!
Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
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A UNIQUE DAY TRIP: The Haunting Memory of Gorée Island, Senegal. Visiting Gorée Island is more than just a day trip to a picturesque destination with vibrant colonial architecture; it’s a profound encounter with a history filled with centuries of pain, resistance, and remembrance. A must-visit spot!
The Missing Truth About Climbing Little Adam’s Peak in Ella, Sri Lanka. Dear Fellow Travellers, Hello from Ella in Sri Lanka. While in Ella, I agreed to walk…
The Missing Truth About Climbing Little Adam’s Peak in Ella, Sri Lanka.
Walking up Little Adam’s Peak, Ella
Dear Fellow Travellers,
Hello from Ella in Sri Lanka.
While in Ella, I agreed to walk up Little Adam’s Peak with my sister and brother-in-law. The walk from Ella to Little Adam’s Peak’s summit is approximately 4.5 kilometres (return) and is said to take about 45 minutes each way. The walk was described in four guidebooks as easy, mostly flat, and with a small amount of climbing at the end.
The hotel’s reference to Little Adam’s Peak summed up the expected experience:
This walk is unlikely to make you break out in a sweat, and the entire round trip can be completed in about two hours. The first part of the walk is quite flat … some climbing is required to reach the summit. The view from the top is more than worth the gentle exertion though, offering a splendid panorama of Ella Rock and The Gap.
Well, they were all wrong! All the guidebooks lied.
It was uphill all the way. There was no “flat” and nothing ‘easy’ about the walk.
I did break out in a sweat – big time.
The walk was two hours one way.
‘The small amount of climbing at the end’ was not just uphill; it was more than 300 vertical steps.
As for “gentle exertion”. Nothing was gentle about the blood pounding in my head when I finally reached the summit. This climb was heart-attack material!
Having reached the summit (at the height of 1,141 metres), I was too exhausted and out of breath to appreciate the “splendid panorama”. And I thought I was fit! There is nothing ‘little’ about Little Adam’s Peak.
I didn’t feel a sense of achievement – I just felt jilted by the guidebooks. In hindsight, I should have stayed in Ella drinking coffee and left the walk up to the others to complete.
Walking up Little Adam’s Peak would have to be one of the worst experiences of my life. Well, perhaps not, but it sure felt like it. I left the others at the bottom of the mountain and took a tuk-tuk back to the hotel. It cost me a lot of rupees, but it was worth every one of them.
Till the next adventure,
Joanna
Editor’s Note: I first published this blog post in February 2021 and have since revised it for accuracy, thoroughness, and relevance.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
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This Tiny Island in Senegal Tells a Story the World Must Never Forget I spent two fabulous weeks in Senegal, West Africa, experiencing as much as possible on a…
This Tiny Island in Senegal Tells a Story the World Must Never Forget
I spent two fabulous weeks in Senegal, West Africa, experiencing as much as possible on a private tour with my guide, Serigne, and driver, Pap, based on an itinerary I developed in consultation with Native Eye Travel. It was a memorable trip with many highlights, including museums in Dakar, Lac Rose (Pink Lake), Fadiouth Island (built on clamshells), Bandia Wildlife Reserve, and more. However, my day trip to Gorée Island was the most poignant.
Just a short ferry ride from Dakar, Gorée Island presents a charming exterior with its pastel facades and narrow alleys while holding a deep history of centuries of pain, resistance, and remembrance. It offers an experience that is both enchanting and emotional.
As I walked through cells once used to imprison enslaved people on Gorée Island and stood before the Door of No Return, I reflected on the lives forever changed by the transatlantic slave trade. This post shares what I discovered on Gorée Island – what to see, how to get there, and, most importantly, why this tiny island left such a lasting impression.
About Gorée Island
Gorée Island lies three kilometres off the coast of Senegal, directly across from Dakar. While it is a small island – approximately 900 metres long and 350 metres wide – its historical significance far outweighs its size.
Discovered by the Portuguese in the 15th century, the island was successively ruled by the Portuguese, Dutch, English, and French from the 15th to the 19th century, using Gorée Island as a strategic trading post.
From 1536 to 1848 (when the French abolished slavery), Gorée Island was active in the transatlantic slave trade, particularly under French control. The island served as a major holding and embarkation centre for enslaved Africans who were forcibly taken from West Africa and kept in cramped, dark cells while awaiting transport across the Atlantic to the Americas.
Gorée Island functioned as both a residential and commercial centre for European traders and a place of imprisonment for captured Africans. The island witnessed unimaginable human suffering, with many enslaved people dying before even setting foot on a ship.
While Gorée Island may not have experienced the highest volume of slave departures, its preserved structures and historical exhibits offer a tangible and solemn connection to this dark chapter of human history. The island has become a pilgrimage site, especially for Africans and African Americans seeking to reconnect with their roots.
In 1978, Gorée Island was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of its historical significance in the slave trade and its well-preserved colonial architecture.
How to Get to Gorée Island
Gorée Island is accessible only by boat. The easiest and cheapest way to get there is to take the direct Gorée Ferry from Dakar’s passenger terminal. Ferries depart every two hours, daily, from 7 am to midnight. Tickets are available at the terminal and cost about 5,000 CFA (approximately USD9) for a return trip. A passport is required to purchase a ticket and to board the ferry – a copy is not accepted.
The ferry ride takes 25-30 minutes. Arrive early to grab a seat on the upper deck for scenic views of Dakar and the approach to Gorée Island.
Approaching Gorée Island, as viewed from the ferry.
Things to Do and See on Gorée Island
Gorée Island offers a unique blend of historical significance and natural beauty. Visit the House of Slaves, a poignant reminder of the island’s transatlantic slave trade, and stroll through the colourful, narrow streets. Admire the colonial architecture, explore the fortifications, and soak up the charming island atmosphere.
House of Slaves (Maison des Esclaves):
The House of Slaves with a view of the Door of No Return. Enslaved Africans were imprisoned in cells on the ground floor while the upper floor was the residence of the slave trader.
The House of Slaves was a slave-holding warehouse and is the island’s most sombre and emotionally powerful site. Built in 1776, this pink-hued building once served as one of the 28 prisons for enslaved Africans on Gorée Island before they were forced aboard ships bound for the Americas. It is now a museum and memorial to the victims of the transatlantic slave trade on Gorée Island – to those who never returned!
Native Eye Travel arranged a private tour of the House of Slaves for me with the Head Curator, and the museum was closed for the duration of my tour.
Inside, narrow corridors led to dark, airless holding cells where men, women, and children were imprisoned separately. Some of these spaces were no larger than a closet, and the living conditions of the enslaved people were atrocious. Families were separated, and children were held away from their mothers. They spent days chained and shackled to the floor, unable to move, and only set free once a day to eat and relieve themselves. Young girls, confined separately from the other women, were particularly vulnerable to sexual exploitation.
The enslaved females’ cell in the House of Slaves.
The cell for enslaved young girls in the House of Slaves.
However, the most haunting feature of the House of Slaves was the Door of No Return. This small seaside doorway marked the last point of contact for enslaved individuals with their homeland. Standing in its shadow, I felt the weight of history pressing down on me. Its symbolic and emotional significance was immense. I found myself motionless, initially unable to photograph what I saw, as I needed to acknowledge the pain that the Door of No Return symbolised.
The House of Slaves: The Door of No Return. Through this door, enslaved men, women, and children stepped from their homeland onto a waiting ship that would transport them to the Americas.
I truly appreciated my private tour, as having other people moving in and out of the cells and around the Door of No Return would have diminished my emotional experience. The House of Slaves was more than a museum; it was a portal to the collective trauma of a people torn from their roots and a powerful reminder of history.
The Statue of Liberation of Slaves is a powerful statue depicting a man and woman embracing as their chains are released. It is located near the House of Slaves. (Sculptors: Mrs Jean and Christian Moisa)
A walking tour of the island:
Beyond the House of Slaves, the island beckons for quiet exploration. Serigne led me through leafy alleyways, past colourful colonial architecture adorned with wrought-iron balconies and crumbling walls held together by bougainvillea.
Gorée Island’s charm is revealed as you wander down its many pretty alleyways.
Colourful colonial architecture is widely featured on Gorée Island.
We walked past open-air art galleries on our way to the highest point of Gorée Island, called the ‘castle’ even though no castle exists. However, two large cannons installed by the French during the Second World War dominate the hill.
These two French cannons were strategically positioned on Gorée Island’s highest point.
Lastly, Serigne took me to the Historical Museum of Senegal in Gorée, located in the former Fort d’Estrées, which the French built between 1852 and 1856. The museum presents the general history of Senegal and the more specific history of Gorée Island. Its layout follows a circular route divided into 13 rooms, covering periods from the Paleolithic Age to the slave trade and independence.
The former Fort d’Estrées, which now houses the Historical Museum.
Having previously visited two excellent museums in Dakar, I found the Gorée Historical Museum relatively uninteresting and neglected. Although all the information about the museum’s exhibits was written in French, this was not an issue, as Serigne was happy to translate for me, as he had done in the museums we visited in Dakar.
Gorée Island was full of contrasts – beauty, serenity, sadness, and suffering.
Where to eat:
Serigne and I lunched on the seafront at the Hostellerie du Chevalier de Boufflers. Shaded by large umbrellas, I ate lunch while looking out over the quiet harbour. My meal consisted of chicken with onion sauce and rice – a delicious traditional Senegalese dish.
Lunch at Hostellerie du Chevalier de Boufflers offers uninterrupted views of Gorée Island’s harbour and serves a great traditional Senegalese chicken dish with onion sauce and rice.
Tips for Visiting
French is the official language of Senegal, but Wolof is the most widely spoken. English is not commonly spoken, and I was hard-pressed to get by in Senegal with my schoolgirl French. Luckily, Serigne spoke excellent English and was happy to translate whenever needed. I found using Google Translate to be an exasperating experience, especially when translating menus with my camera. I was never sure what I was ordering!
A day trip to Gorée Island is all you need. I spent five hours on the island and saw everything there was to see, except for the Museum of the Sea and the Women’s Museum.
Gorée Island is car-free and has cobblestone streets. It may be tiny, but you will do a lot of walking, so comfortable shoes are essential.
Remember, you need a valid passport to travel to Gorée Island from Dakar. You cannot purchase a ferry ticket without one.
The House of Slaves is open Tuesday through Sunday and closed on Mondays. Its hours are 10.30 am to 12.00 pm and 3.00 pm to 6.00 pm.
The Historical Museum of Senegal in Gorée is open Tuesday through Sunday and closed on Mondays. Its hours are from 10.30 am to 4.30 pm.
Do you truly want to understand the history of Gorée Island, rather than merely wandering the streets? I recommend arranging a guided tour from Dakar with a reputable travel agency, such as Viator or Get Your Guide (both of which I have successfully used in the past). Alternatively, you can arrive on Gorée Island and choose one of the guides who meet the ferry.
Reflecting on my Experience
Visiting Gorée Island was not just another travel experience but a journey through history and humanity. It reminded me of the importance of confronting the past, no matter how painful, and honouring those whose lives were shaped by it.
Walking through the corridors that were once filled with unimaginable suffering was a sobering experience. But there was also hope in the quiet determination to remember and never forget.
Last view of the Door of No Return (in the red building) as I leave Gorée Island on the ferry for Dakar.
A visit to Gorée Island is more than just a day trip; it’s a powerful encounter with history. It invites you to slow down, listen, and reflect. While the island’s beauty is undeniable, the emotional weight of its past lingers long after the ferry ride back to Dakar.
Gorée Island reminds us of humanity’s capacity for cruelty but also of its resilience and the importance of remembering. If travelling through Senegal, set aside a day for Gorée Island. It’s not just about sightseeing – it’s about bearing witness. Gorée Island doesn’t just tell a story – it asks you to carry it with you.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
Have you visited Gorée Island or another historic site that left a deep impression on you? I’d love to hear your thoughts.
I love hearing from you and look forward to reading and responding to your comments. Please join the conversation by leaving a comment below.
Like this post? Save it for later!
Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
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SAFARI BLISS IN SENEGAL: My Adventure at Bandia Wildlife Reserve. Senegal is unlikely to feature on your list when considering a safari in Africa. However, the small Bandia Wildlife Reserve, a conservation success story, offered an intimate, rewarding, and rich safari experience unlike those in big-name parks.
Beautiful Melk Abbey Review – A River Cruise Tour You Should Not Miss. Sailing down the Danube River through Austria’s Wachau Valley, a sight came into view that seemed…
Beautiful Melk Abbey Review – A River Cruise Tour You Should Not Miss.
Sailing down the Danube River through Austria’s Wachau Valley, a sight came into view that seemed straight out of a storybook – Melk Abbey, perched high on a rocky outcrop overlooking the water. With its golden-yellow Baroque façade gleaming in the sunlight, this magnificent Benedictine monastery promised grandeur, history, and breathtaking views.
As part of a river cruise through central Europe, visiting Melk Abbey was a cultural and architectural highlight I won’t forget. From ornate ceilings and staircases to a library that feels like something out of a fantasy novel, the abbey offered a fascinating glimpse into Austria’s monastic past and Baroque artistry. Whether you’re a history lover, an architecture enthusiast, or someone seeking a unique stop along the Danube, Melk Abbey provides a memorable experience.
In this post, I share what makes Melk Abbey a standout destination, how I experienced it, and why it deserves a place on your Austrian travel itinerary.
About Melk Abbey
Melk Abbey is a magnificent Benedictine monastery in Lower Austria and a masterpiece of Baroque architecture. It is Austria’s largest Baroque structure and one of Europe’s biggest and most beautiful.
The abbey is perched high on a cliff overlooking the Old Town of Melk and the Danube River. It lies at the confluence of the Danube and Melk rivers within the Wachau UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The abbey you see today was built between 1702 and 1736. But Melk Abbey has more than 930 years of history, told in the abbey’s museum. Originally a palace, Melk Abbey was gifted to the Benedictine monks in 1089 and has remained an active abbey ever since. Today, Melk Abbey has 22 monks, a co-educational secondary school with 900 pupils, an extremely well-presented, minimalist museum, and a magnificent church.
My first glimpse of Melk Abbey from the cruise ship on the Danube River was absolutely breathtaking. From every angle, it was impressive – a fairytale vision brought to life. With its ochre-coloured façade and imposing Baroque architecture, Melk Abbey is among the most beautiful buildings. You might have gathered by now that I was truly awestruck by it, and the approach to the abbey’s entrance and guided tour only cemented my delight.
The approach to Melk Abbey’s entrance is through a small garden.
Touring Melk Abbey: Highlights and Impressions
The 50-minute guided tour of Melk Abbey (arranged by Viking Cruises) includes the museum rooms, the Marble Hall, the Balcony, and the library. It began with a meet and greet in the expansive outer courtyard, the Gatekeeper’s Courtyard. In this courtyard, there is an oak wood statue of Saint Coloman. The sculpture, crafted by Franz Gundacker using only a chainsaw, is 150 years old, and the oak was sourced from the abbey’s forests.
Saint Coloman was Austria’s first patron saint until 1663. He remains the patron saint of Melk Abbey and the town of Melk and is buried in the abbey church.
From the Gatekeeper’s Courtyard, we passed through the Benedict Hall and into the Prelate’s Courtyard.
The 150-year-old wooden sculpture of Saint Coloman in the Gatekeeper’s Courtyard, patron saint of Melk Abbey.
The beautiful Baroque entrance to Melk Abbey’s Prelate’s Courtyard, accessed from the Gatekeeper’s Courtyard.
The Prelate’s Courtyard features four vivid, contemporary frescoes, replacing the Baroque frescoes that could not be restored. These frescoes represent the four cardinal virtues: Prudence, Temperance, Justice, and Fortitude. The modernist style of the frescoes caused some controversy as people tried to adjust to the move away from the original and expected Baroque style.
Melk Abbey’s modern fresco of the cardinal virtue of Prudence.
Melk Abbey’s modern fresco of the cardinal virtue of Temperance.
Melk Abbey’s modern fresco of the cardinal virtue of Justice.
Melk Abbey’s modern fresco of the cardinal virtue of Fortitude.
Leaving the Prelate’s Courtyard through a narrow passageway, the grand Imperial Staircase leads to the Imperial Wing, the abbey’s museum and library. Known for its impressive scale and Baroque design, it is a significant feature of the abbey’s architecture.
The abbey museum and imperial rooms
The Imperial Wing was originally designed for the imperial court. It consists of the Imperial Corridor and the Imperial Rooms, which now house the Melk Abbey Museum.
The Imperial Corridor, measuring 196 metres in length, is impressive. Portraits of Austria’s rulers adorn its walls – from the first Babenberg Emperor, Leopold I, to the last Habsburg Emperor, Karl I. There are more portraits of the Habsburgs since they ruled longer.
The Melk Abbey Museum, located in the imperial rooms to the left of the Imperial Staircase, is exceptionally well-organised and informative and adopts a minimalist approach. You gain a solid overview of the abbey’s history, both past and present, as well as its cultural, political, and economic functions, without feeling overwhelmed or as though there is too much to absorb, ultimately leaving you none the wiser. There is no information overload here.
The museum consists of 11 small rooms. Its overriding theme is “The Path from Yesterday to Today: Melk Abbey in its Past and Present,” and each room features a specific theme. What follows are snippets of interesting information taken from the guide’s explanations throughout the museum tour and my impressions.
Room 3 (“The Ups and Downs of History”) features a wavy floor, symbolising life’s ups and downs. The flooring is not the original Baroque, as Napoleon was an unfortunate guest who burned documents on it.
Rooms 5 and 6 pay tribute to Melk Abbey’s contribution to the Baroque period. The Baroque period was a historical era marked by excess and all that glitters (gold and more gold). “Heaven on Earth” seems to be an appropriate theme for this period. However, Room 7’s “In the Name of Reason” theme represents new times and a sensible, frugal monarch. Joseph II said the Baroque style was too expensive, but perhaps he was too frugal. Taking the Baroque style to the opposite extreme, he allowed only one coffin per church. The coffin designed to meet this requirement had a bottom that would open, allowing the corpse to drop through. Thus, the church could use the coffin again and again.
Room 10 (“To Glorify God in Everything”) contains a 17th-century iron chest for secure storage and transporting the abbey’s most important documents and treasures. The chest features a convoluted locking mechanism comprising 14 still operational locks.
The detailed model of Melk Abbey housed in Room 11 (“Motion is a Sign of Life”) rotates, allowing you to see all sides unobstructed. A mirror on the ceiling provides a view into the model’s courtyards.
The Marble Hall served as a reception area for guests and a dining hall for the imperial family. The name ‘Marble’ Hall is somewhat misleading, as only the door frames are genuine marble. The ‘marble’ on the walls is faux marble. However, I could overlook this due to the magnificent ceiling fresco, which is complemented and framed by stunning architectural paintings.
The abbey library
The library is the second most important room in any Benedictine monastery, second only to the church.
My favourite library to date has been the Coimbra University Library in Portugal. However, the competition between that library and Melk Abbey’s Library would be close; both are stunningly beautiful, and there is something uniquely special about the mix of dark wood and old books.
The Melk Abbey library, completed in 1735, houses approximately 100,000 books and 1800 manuscripts, some dating back to the 9th century. The uniformity of the books on the inlaid bookshelves results from them being bound to match. With internal balconies, wooden sculptures, a massive free-standing world globe, figurines, and frescoed ceilings, the library offers an entrancing vision. It also exudes peace and tranquillity; it is a place where I could easily spend hours just sitting and soaking in the atmosphere. I am waxing lyrical here, but I can’t help it. The Melk Abbey Library does that to me. It’s no wonder Umberto Eco conducted his research for his book, The Name of the Rose, in Melk Abbey’s library. But more on that later.
The library’s upper floor, added in 1768 and accessed via a Rococo-style spiral staircase, is not open to the public.
Melk Abbey’s literary connection extends beyond the books in its historical library.
The Name of the Rose, written by Umberto Eco (1980), is a historical murder mystery (a medieval whodunit) set in an Italian Cistercian monastery in 1327.
But what does a story about murders in a Cistercian monastery in Italy have to do with a Benedictine monastery in Austria? The connection is Melk Abbey’s magnificent library. The focal point in The Name of the Rose is the library where all the murders take place. Melk Abbey’s library is said to be Eco’s inspiration for the library in The Name of the Rose.
But the connection goes deeper than that. One of Eco’s main characters in The Name of the Rose is Adso of Melk, a Benedictine novice from Melk Abbey. The Name of the Rose is Adso of Melk’s story, as he is the narrator. As a way of introduction, Adso of Melk informs us that he is writing his narrative, now an old man, at Melk Abbey. On the last page of The Name of the Rose, Adso of Melk tells the reader he is leaving his manuscript in the library of Melk Abbey.
The guided tour concluded in the library. I stayed behind to soak in the library’s ambience before visiting the church at the guide’s recommendation.
The abbey church
My visit to Melk Abbey’s church was not part of the guided tour, but it is a must-see due to its Baroque architecture and ornate interior of gold leaf, stucco, and marble.
The Altar of Coloman is noteworthy because it contains a sarcophagus with the remains of Saint Coloman, the patron saint of Melk Abbey. Some of the Babenbergs, Austria’s first rulers, are also buried in the church.
Melk Abbey’s church is viewed from The Balcony.
The Balcony connecting Marble Hall with the library offers magnificent views of Melk’s Old Town and the Melk and Danube rivers.
Helpful Information
Photography is prohibited inside Melk Abbey’s museum, Marble Hall, the library, and the church.
You don’t have to take the 50-minute guided tour of Melk Abbey (except in the winter months). However, in my opinion, this would be a false economy, as the explanations provided by the guide throughout the tour were invaluable. The guide’s storytelling brought Melk Abbey to life, revealing all its traits.
Melk Abbey’s brochure for individual guests provides detailed information on prices, guided tour times, and a tourist map of the abbey.
I visited Melk Abbey on a shore excursion during a river cruise along the Danube River. However, you can reach Melk by train from Vienna if you’re not on a river cruise. I recommend leaving enough time to explore the old town of Melk.
Melk Abbey isn’t just a beautiful building perched above the Danube; it’s a living piece of Austrian history, rich in art, culture, and spiritual significance. Touring its imperial rooms, ornate church, and the awe-inspiring library was unforgettable. It’s no surprise that Melk Abbey is one of the most photographed stops on Danube River cruises.
Whether cruising through the Wachau Valley or planning a land-based visit, Melk Abbey is absolutely worth your time. It’s a place where history breathes through frescoed ceilings, golden altars, and ancient manuscripts. It was a highlight of the cruise and one of the most memorable experiences of my trip through Austria.
If you’re looking for a cultural gem that combines architecture, history, and fabulous scenery, include Melk Abbey in your itinerary. You won’t be disappointed; I guarantee it is something special.
Editor’s Note: I first published this blog post in November 2019 and have since revised it for accuracy, thoroughness, and relevance.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
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