Safari in Mole National Park at Zaina Lodge – Ghana’s Greatest Secret Now Expose. Nestled within the heart of Ghana’s largest wildlife reserve, Mole National Park, Zaina Lodge offers…
Safari in Mole National Park at Zaina Lodge – Ghana’s Greatest Secret Now Expose.
Nestled within the heart of Ghana’s largest wildlife reserve, Mole National Park, Zaina Lodge offers a luxurious safari experience that blends comfort with adventure. This secluded retreat invites nature lovers to immerse themselves in the sights and sounds of the African wilderness. From its elevated vantage point, Zaina Lodge provides breathtaking views of the Park’s vast savannah and the chance to witness wildlife up close.
In this post, I’ll share my journey to this hidden gem, guide you through Mole National Park’s diverse wildlife, and give you a glimpse into the exceptional accommodations and experiences at Zaina Lodge. Accompanied by my own photos from this unforgettable adventure, get ready to be transported to a world of magic where nature and luxury coexist in harmony.
Forget the chocolate, which Ghana is famed for. Instead, go on a wildlife safari in Mole National Park (pronounced ‘mole-ah’) and stay in a luxury safari lodge.
When preparing for my West Africa trip, I came across Mole National Park and Zaina Lodge in my research. As a lover of safaris, wild animals, game drives, and luxury, I did not hesitate to add Mole National Park to my itinerary.
After a hectic small group trip through West Africa’s Togo, Benin and Ghana, I took myself to north-western Ghana for rest and recreation at Zaina Lodge in Mole National Park. The effort of getting there was so worth it, and it enabled me to re-energise before heading to Senegal for a month.
About Mole National Park Ghana
Mole National Park (pronounced ‘Moh-lay’) was established in 1958 and was the first Protected Area in Ghana. Located in northwest Ghana, it is the largest game reserve in Ghana, covering an area of 4,912 square kilometres and comprising savannah and forest habitats. The park has the widest range of wildlife in Ghana and is the only place in Ghana where you can experience elephants in the wild.
Mole National Park is rich in biodiversity and home to over 90 mammal species, including five primate species. Species of special interest include elephants, buffalo, Kob, Western Hartebeest, Roan Antelope, Defassa Waterbuck, Oribi, Bohor Reedbuck and Red-flanked Duiker. Rare and endangered species include the Yellow-backed Duiker, Black and White Colobus Monkey, leopard and lion. The park is also home to 334 bird species, 33 reptiles, nine amphibian species, and some 120 butterfly species.
Mole National Park has the most viable elephant population in Ghana (about 400) and is, as such, a hotspot for elephant conservation. It is also said that the park has a unique breed of elephants that are not hostile, aggressive, or insecure compared to other elephant populations in the rest of Africa. As such, it is one of few parks that allows visitors to approach the world’s largest land animal on foot. You can arrange for an armed ranger to join you in your own 4WD, but you are not allowed to explore Mole National Park unaccompanied.
In 2020, UNESCO included Mole National Park on its World Heritage Tentative List.
Getting to Zaina Lodge in Mole National Park
There are three ways to get to Mole National Park – plane, car, and bus.
I took the quickest option and flew from Accra, Ghan’s capital, to Tamale in the north. The flight took one hour. I had a pre-arranged transfer from Tamale Airport to Zaina Lodge – a drive of about 180 kilometres, taking approximately two and a half hours.
The two-and-a-half-hour drive from Tamale to Zaina Lodge passed quickly as there was much to see, passing through numerous towns and villages. Also, the road was the best I had experienced in Ghana.
The drive from Accra to Mole National Park by private car or through a transfer agency takes about 10-11 hours, with a driving distance of approximately 690 kilometres.
The cheapest option is to take a bus from Accra to Wa and then a taxi or minibus from Wa to Mole National Park. Depending on your connection in Wa, the journey takes about ten hours.
Zaina Lodge Ghana: Accommodation and Wildlife in Mole National Park
Zaina Lodge’s pool area at the main chalet.
Zaina Lodge is a luxury safari lodge located within Mole National Park with 24 large, spacious tented chalets facing two man-made waterholes. The tented chalets are on the top of an escarpment, which gave me an excellent view of the animals (mainly antelope and elephants) coming to drink at the waterholes.
The tented chalets are “framed with sustainably raised plantation teak”, including the porch, and finished with thatched roofs. Inside was pure luxury with a king-sized bed, television, desk and chair, terracotta floor tiles, and courtesy dressing gowns. The air-conditioned room featured a ceiling fan, in-room safe, minibar, and free WiFi. Behind the partial dividing wall (behind the bed) was the shower room, washroom, and toilet, with locally sourced shea butter soap. I knew I would be very comfortable for the next three nights!
My tented chalet at Zaina Lodge Ghana.
The interior of my tented chalet at Zaina Lodge.
The shower room and washroom in my tented chalet.
Zaina Lodge offers three packages: Zaina Bed and Breakfast, Zaina Half Board, and Zaina Experience. I booked the Zaina Experience because it included all meals and a daily safari drive. I booked additional safari drives as one a day would not satisfy my desire to see as much wildlife as possible. At one point, I questioned if I really needed safari drives because elephants would walk through the unfenced camp. Hence, there was a safety requirement for being escorted by a ranger to our chalets after the night meal. One particularly large male elephant was interested in the running water in front of the lodge’s main entrance.
Who needs a walking safari when you meet this gentle giant every morning on your way to breakfast?
Zaina Lodge offers morning and afternoon safari drives, a morning walking safari, and a canoe safari. I was keen to do a walking safari but opted against it after being told it was too cold for the animals to appear. I never expected to hear that it was too cold in the mornings because the temperatures in the area (mid-January) were 37-39 degrees Celsius! After learning I would not see hippos but mainly birds, I decided not to include a canoe safari in my itinerary. [My sister would have loved that!]
In the end, I didn’t need to book a walking safari because, on two occasions, we left the safari jeep with our armed ranger to walk up close to (within a safe distance) one elephant partially concealed by the bush and another that was having a dust bath.
An elephant gives itself a dust bath (natural sunscreen).
On our exciting safari drives, we had an armed ranger who doubled as our knowledgeable guide, sharing the names of the amazing animals we encountered. I spotted various types of antelope, playful monkeys, majestic elephants, inquisitive baboons, warthog families, crocodiles, and an incredible variety of birds, including some rare endangered species.
A gallery of some of the wildlife I saw on my Zaina Lodge safari drives in Mole National Park:
Northern Bushbuck
Roan Antelope
Hawk
Abyssinian Roller
A mother baboon and baby.
Elephants cross the road in front of us.
A common tradition on African safari drives is stopping mid-drive for a hot drink and snacks. I’ve had morning and afternoon tea in some of Africa’s most breathtaking places! On Zaina Lodge’s safari drives, our accompanying armed ranger would scout the area for animals before the driver served coffee, hot chocolate, tea, and biscuits.
Our safari driver serves morning tea.
The evening meal wasn’t always served in the lodge’s restaurant. One night, staff had set up the dining tables under the stars around the pool. On another occasion, dinner was a bar-b-que in a kraal (a fenced enclosure – usually made from dry, interwoven tree branches – to protect from predators).
After a month of travelling through West Africa and another month before heading home, I was ready for a massage. Thankfully, Zaina Lodge has an on-site wellness spa offering guests a host of massage therapies. I was pampered with a 30-minute foot massage and exfoliation treatment and a 45-minute back, shoulder, and head massage. I found the whole experience very relaxing.
I highly recommend Zaina Lodge. It is a beautiful setting to rest and relax while the attentive staff care for your needs (and wants!). I could go on as many game drives as I wanted, sleep in between, get a massage, or swim. In the mornings, all I could hear was bird song. It was so peaceful!
I found an email I sent to my family after leaving Mole National Park that best sums up my experience:
Zaina Lodge in Mole National Park was a fabulous experience, and I am so glad I included it in my itinerary. It was luxury accommodation with good food and attentive staff. I took four game drives, two of which included a bit of a walk as the ranger (armed) had seen elephant tracks, and we headed out of the vehicle to find them. I saw lots of elephants and other wildlife, ate too much, and felt very relaxed.
When To Go
Mole National Park has a tropical climate with a wet and dry season and warm temperatures year-round, with an average temperature of about 28 degrees Celsius.
The best time to visit Mole National Park to see wildlife is during the dry season, November to March, when animals gather around waterholes to drink. However, the dry harmattan winds can blow between December and February, bringing dusty, hazy weather.
The dry African savannah changes to lush vegetation during the rainy season, usually from April to October.
Zaina Lodge is more than just a place to stay – it’s an immersive safari experience that leaves a lasting impression. Whether exploring the park on a thrilling safari or relaxing in the comfort of a tented chalet, every moment is an opportunity to connect with nature. My stay at Zaina Lodge was unforgettable, filled with awe-inspiring wildlife encounters and serene moments overlooking the savannah.
If you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-path safari experience with a blend of comfort, luxury, and adventure, Zaina Lodge in Mole National Park is the perfect destination.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
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Cruising Along the Chobe River Provides a Different Perspective on Wildlife Viewing Than a Traditional Land-Based Safari. Gliding along the tranquil waters of the Chobe River, where Namibia and…
Cruising Along the Chobe River Provides a Different Perspective on Wildlife Viewing Than a Traditional Land-Based Safari.
Gliding along the tranquil waters of the Chobe River, where Namibia and Botswana meet, I embarked on a safari experience unlike any other. Onboard the Chobe Princess houseboat, I had a front-row seat to one of Africa’s most spectacular wildlife displays – without even stepping onto land. The river offered a unique vantage point for the thriving activity on the riverbank. From magnificent elephants and watchful hippos to resting crocodiles and playful baboons, my two-night Chobe River Safari left me with unforgettable memories.
In this post, I share the highlights of my Chobe River safari, including how to reach the Chobe Princess, the best time to visit, and what makes this corner of Africa a must-see for wildlife enthusiasts. I hope this post inspires you to embark on your own Chobe River adventure.
About the Chobe River
The Chobe River begins in the mountains of Angola, flows through the neck of Namibia’s Caprivi Strip, forms the border between Namibia and Botswana, and then flows into the Zambezi River.
The Chobe River is the meeting point of four countries – Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia, and Zambia. Read on to learn why this created an interesting triple border crossing for me to reach my river cruise boat.
The Chobe River flows for 60 kilometres through Chobe National Park. It serves as a lifeline for a variety of animals, drawing them in for drinking, bathing, and resting. The riverfront is famous for seeing large herds of elephants and Cape Buffalo, pods of hippos, lions, crocodiles, and many bird species.
Zambezi Queen Collection’s houseboats officially cruise on the Namibian side of the Chobe River. However, because they are quite remote, the easiest access to them is from Kasane in Botswana.
I travelled to the Chobe Princess from Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. I arrived in and/or left three countries in the space of one and a half hours: I left Zimbabwe, arrived in Botswana, left Botswana, and arrived in Namibia! Each border crossing required queuing for immigration, filling out forms, and paying for visas. I did wonder if I would have enough pages in my passport to accommodate all the stamps.
After crossing the border from Zimbabwe into Botswana, I was driven into Kasane to cross the border from Botswana to Namibia. Upon exiting Botswanan immigration, a Chobe Princess crew member took me by speed boat to Namibia’s border control and immigration on Impalila Island. Alighting from the speed boat, I had to walk up a hill to get to the Namibian immigration office. Luckily, I could leave my bag with the crew member in the speed boat! At one point, with the immigration building in sight, there was a sign that read, “Take a deep breath, you’re almost there”. At the gate to the immigration building’s enclosure, there was another sign, “Congratulations, you’ve made it”. I later learned that a Chobe Princess manager was responsible for the signs – to make the slog up the hill more bearable!
Having completed all my border crossings, we sped down the Chobe River for about half an hour to meet up with the Chobe Princess, which didn’t stop for me to board. But it was cruising very slowly, so I was able to transfer from the speed boat to the houseboat without mishap.
About the Chobe Princess houseboat
The Zambezi Queen Collection has a fleet of houseboats cruising the Chobe River – the luxury Zambezi Queen and three Chobe Princesses.
Two moored Chobe Princess houseboats. I took this photo from the third Chobe Princess.
I cruised the Chobe River on the larger (five-cabin) Chobe Princess. My two-night package included all meals, soft drinks and water, local beers and wines, teas and coffee, and morning and afternoon river safaris (water-based game viewing).
I only took a two-night cruise instead of three nights because I had made a last-minute booking. I would have preferred a three-night cruise as I was sad to say goodbye to the Chobe River and my unique wildlife experience.
The houseboat looked tired and could have used some updating. (I understand the Chobe Princess houseboats have recently been upgraded.) My standard cabin was big enough for a king-sized bed, but that was all, and I couldn’t turn around in the bathroom. The electricity struggled and kept cutting out, which meant the cabin never really cooled down, and batteries took forever to charge. The meals were hit and miss, ranging from okay to delicious. However, none of this detracted from my wonderful cruising and game-viewing experiences, and the service was excellent.
The Chobe Princess offered an informal, relaxed, and intimate river cruise with a unique game-viewing experience. It traversed the Chobe River along the banks of Botswana’s Chobe National Park. How far you travel on the river will depend on water levels, as houseboats can get stuck if the river is too low. However, you travel further up and down the river on the Chobe Princess’ safari boat – a small open aluminium boat with an outboard motor (known as a tinnie in Australia).
My African river safari
While the Chobe Princess operates from the Namibian side of the Chobe River, I am sure we were more often in Botswana than Namibia when motoring up and down the river in the safari boat when viewing wildlife from the water!
Game viewing from the river offers a truly unique wildlife safari perspective.
What I learned and saw:
Elephants can’t swim. When they cross the river, they are walking on the riverbed. A baby elephant will hang onto their mother’s tail, and auntie comes behind, lifting the baby every so often for its trunk to go out of the water so it can breathe. It’s funny watching these little trunks and nothing else appear above the water. Something you won’t see on a land safari!
Elephants cross the Chobe River.
I saw a baby elephant drinking from the river with its mouth instead of its trunk. I learned that baby elephants cannot use their trunks until three months old.
This baby elephant drinks with his mouth as he hasn’t learned to use his trunk.
I watched a baby elephant flapping its trunk around because it didn’t know what it was for or how to use it.
I saw elephants lying down with other elephants standing in a circle around them, guarding them. When I saw this for the first time, I asked my river safari guide if the elephant was lying down because it was giving birth or was sick and dying. I was assured the elephant was just resting. I later saw several elephants being guarded while lying down, so I had to believe my guide when he said they were just resting and not sick.
Elephants protect resting herd members.
Elephants stand guard over a sleeping baby.
I laughed as I watched a baby elephant make five attempts to get up a tricky part of the riverbank before succeeding.
I watched two juvenile male elephants playing at aggression.
Cape Buffalos look like a storybook Heidi, with a big bone across their foreheads and turned-up horns like pigtails.
A Cape Buffalo.
The hippopotamus is the most dangerous land animal in Africa, killing about 500 people per year. They are massive, fiercely territorial, aggressive, agile in and out of the water, have long sharp teeth in a huge jaw, and can run up to 30 kilometres an hour on land. So, you can understand why hippos are such a fearsome animal to encounter!
A hippo heads for the river.
Hippos don’t poop on land. They poop in the water and use their tails to fling it as far as up to ten metres away.
A hippo pooping in the water and flicking it around.
Crocodiles were resting on the riverbank, and one was sitting on her eggs.
A crocodile rests on the riverbank.
A social group of baboons down by the river were feeding their young, eating, preening, and playing.
Baboons on the riverbank.
Waterbucks are easily distinguishable because of the ‘target’ (white ring) on their rump.
A waterbuck.
Giraffes must spread their front legs to drink or eat grass. This makes them highly vulnerable to predatory animals because they can’t get up quickly.
A giraffe spreads its legs to eat grass while another stands watch.
Why I recommend a Chobe River Safari on the Chobe Princess
A cruise on the Chobe River offers a unique wildlife safari experience that differs from traditional land safaris. Here are some compelling reasons why I recommend a multi-day Chobe River cruise:
Intimate and comfortable accommodation: The Chobe Princess is a small houseboat that accommodates a maximum of ten passengers. While my cabin was sufficient, the service was personalised, the sundeck was furnished with comfortable lounges, and the cruising was relaxed.
Abundant wildlife: The Chobe River is known for its dense wildlife population, especially during the dry season when animals amass along the riverbanks. You can spot elephants, hippos, crocodiles, buffalo, and various bird species. Since the river provides a natural water source, it’s a prime location to observe animals in their natural habitat, often at close range.
Convenient and comfortable game viewing: A river cruise offers a leisurely and comfortable way to see wildlife instead of driving around in a vehicle for hours. You can relax on the Chobe Princess’ sundeck with a drink while enjoying panoramic views as the boat drifts along the river.
Unique water-based perspective: Seeing animals from the water as you cruise along the Chobe River provides a different perspective on wildlife than a traditional land-based safari.
Where else would you get this wildlife perspective except on a Chobe River safari cruise?
Exclusive and peaceful: Being on the water, you escape the crowds and busy roads often found in popular safari parks. As such, you experience a quieter and more intimate encounter with nature, especially on a smaller vessel like the Chobe Princess.
It’s an adventure: Getting to the Chobe Princess (described earlier in this post) was an adventure I wouldn’t miss.
If you love wildlife and an unforgettable safari experience, a Chobe River cruise on the Chobe Princess is definitely worth considering.
A note on when to go
I cruised the Chobe River in early November when the dry season, described as “Lots of wildlife on the riverbanks”, had just ended. The dry season is a time when many animals gather around and stay close to the main water source, and you can watch them as you cruise by.
November is generally the start of the wet season. However, I experienced no rain and wildlife viewing along the riverbank was exceptional, especially for herds of elephants, pods of hippos, buffalo, crocodiles, and monkeys, which were drawn to the water.
My two-night wildlife safari cruise on the Chobe River was an unforgettable experience. The combination of the river’s natural beauty, the abundant wildlife, and the comfort of the Chobe River houseboat created a truly magical journey. If you seek a unique safari experience – one where the wildlife comes to you – this is it!
Whether you’re a seasoned traveller or a nature enthusiast, a safari cruise on the Chobe River promises an adventure like no other – one that I can’t recommend enough. The memories made during this trip will stay with me for a lifetime.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
STAY AT LUXURY ZAINA LODGE IN GHANA FOR AMAZING WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS. Looking for a unique African safari experience? Zaina Lodge is a luxury safari destination in Ghana’s Mole National Park. Explore how to get there, when to visit, and what makes Zaina Lodge stand out. Get inspired for your next journey!
Luxury Glamping Meets Unforgettable Wildlife Encounters in Botswana’s Okavango Delta: My Honest Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp Review. Nestled in the heart of Botswana’s Okavango Delta, Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp offers an…
Luxury Glamping Meets Unforgettable Wildlife Encounters in Botswana’s Okavango Delta: My Honest Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp Review.
Nestled in the heart of Botswana’s Okavango Delta, Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp offers an exceptional safari experience where luxury and nature blend seamlessly. Glamping takes on a new meaning at this exclusive camp with spacious, beautifully appointed tents that provide the perfect blend of comfort and adventure. My time here was filled with exhilarating wildlife encounters during unforgettable game drives, where elephants, leopards, lions, giraffes, and other animals roamed freely. What truly sets Stanley’s Camp apart, though, is the personalised hospitality that made me feel like part of the family, ensuring an unforgettable stay in the African wilderness.
Join me as I unveil the charming appeal of this wilderness sanctuary and relive moments of wonder, awe, and connection with nature.
Sanctuary Retreats owns and operates luxury safari lodges and camps in Kenya, Botswana, Tanzania, Uganda, Zambia, and Namibia. Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp, named after the explorer Henry Stanley, is one of two Sanctuary Retreats’ camps in Botswana’s Okavango Delta. It is in a large private concession on the southern tip of Chiefs Island and shares a border with the Moremi Game Reserve.
Stanley’s Camp is accessible by air. A flight from Maun takes about 15 minutes, and a flight from Kasane takes about 90 minutes. The camp itself is about a 20-minute drive from Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp’s private airstrip.
I flew to Maun in Botswana from Johannesburg in South Africa – a two-hour flight. For the first time in my extensive travels, check-in at Johannesburg Airport weighed my carry-on bag. Luckily, my two bags were under 20 kilograms when weighed together – the maximum limit for my light aircraft flights to and from Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp.
From Maun, I took a Mac Air flight to Stanley’s Camp. The plane was a six-seater – seven if you account for the pilot, and he probably should be included! The flight took ten minutes, and I had fantastic aerial views of the Okavango Delta.
Three of us got off the plane at Stanley’s Camp airstrip, which was simply hard, packed earth (like baked clay) but well maintained. At the airstrip, a Stanley’s Camp staff member met us in an open-sided 4X4 game drive vehicle. Before we could drive away, we had to wait for the plane to be airborne to ensure it took off okay.
About ten minutes from the airstrip, we stopped for a welcome ‘picnic’ in the bush, which included champagne, juice, soft drinks, and nibbles. I was grateful for the cold washer, and we were each given a water bottle with our name on it, which we were allowed to keep. These bush picnics would become a regular event over the next several days.
The advised 30-minute drive to the camp took 50 minutes, as we had to keep stopping to take photos of the elephants, giraffes, and wildebeest we encountered.
Arriving at the camp, the staff welcomed us with a song of greeting, a cold washer, and more drinks. In the meantime, the female staff (housekeeping) took our bags to our tents, carrying them on their heads. For my housekeeper, that was 12 kilos on her head! We had arrived at the camp in time for high tea (4.00 pm), which we had while checking in.
Check-in was more of a safety briefing:
We can walk around the camp on our own during the day but never at night.
Our guide must always escort us to and from our tent at night. Guests are allocated a group guide for the duration of their stay.
We must never use the pool at night.
Drink lots of water.
These safety precautions are necessary because wild animals – hyenas, monkeys, elephants, etc. – regularly enter the camp area.
After our safety briefing, a staff member showed me to my accommodation. The accommodation at Stanley’s Camp is glamping at its best. For those unfamiliar with the term ‘glamping’, it is a glamorous alternative to traditional camping. Stanley’s Camp has ten tents, all with views over the floodplains. ‘Tent’ does not adequately describe the accommodation. The tent is a luxurious, spacious room with a king-sized bed, an ensuite bathroom that doesn’t lack any facilities, and a large veranda with a daybed; it just has canvas for walls and roof. There’s no air conditioning, but the room has a ceiling fan and a standard misting fan, and the canvas walls roll up to allow the breeze to flow through.
Glamping at Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp. (Courtesy of Sanctuary Retreats’ Trade Image Library)
My housekeeper pointed out the essential facilities in the room:
Insect spray (called Doom – appropriate name!),
personal mosquito spray (called Peaceful Sleep – I hope so!),
torch,
alarm horn (to scare intruding predators away),
emergency radio (walkie-talkie – hope I don’t need that!), and
WiFi is only available in our tents.
After settling into my tent, I met my guide for a mokoro safari through the waterways of the Okavango Delta. A mokoro is a traditional canoe that is propelled through the water by standing in the stern and pushing with a pole. While lazing in the mokoro was very relaxing, I was disappointed with this activity as I saw nothing but water lilies and reeds. I am not sure what I expected, but a few water buffalo or birds would have made the experience more interesting. I needed to remind myself that wildlife sightings are, to a great extent, unpredictable. However, on the drive to the mokoros, we came across a leopard sitting under a tree and spent some time taking photos before he left the shade of the tree, checking us out as he left the area.
A leopard checks us out as he walks past our safari vehicle.
After the mokoro safari, drinks and nibbles were served in the bush by Stanley’s Camp staff before returning to camp.
Stanley’s Camp staff set up our mokoro safari ‘picnic’.
Back at camp, there were more drinks and the essential cold washer before being escorted to my tent to get ready for dinner.
Later that evening, my guide escorted me to the central tent for dinner. The food was excellent, as too was the coffee. During dinner, staff informed us that the plan for the following morning would be a wake-up call at 5.15 am, breakfast at 6.00 am, and leave for a game drive at 6.30 am. I questioned how staff managed a wake-up call given there was no phone in our tents – thinking the call might come via the emergency radio. One of the other guests informed me that a ‘wake-up call’ meant tea or coffee brought to your tent by staff. Now that’s civilised!
At dinner, I was given a handmade reed bracelet with my name woven into it. Such a nice gesture!
In addition to having all our meals in the central tent, it proved to be an idyllic place to socialise with the other camp guests.
Stanley’s Camp central tent. (Courtesy of Sanctuary Retreats’ Trade Image Library)
I was sorely tested during my first night’s sleep, as I am sure I slept with every insect known to man. I sprayed myself in Peaceful Sleep and sprayed the bed in Doom, but it made no difference! And it was hot! I learned to encase my bed in the mosquito netting BEFORE leaving for the afternoon game drive.
On the morning of my first game drive, I was not only woken by my coffee wake-up call but also by several small monkeys making a racket in the trees outside my tent.
My Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp four-night package included accommodation, all meals, and game drives (morning and afternoon). I had come for the game drives, especially to see elephants and hippos, and I wasn’t disappointed. The excellent accommodation, delicious meals, and attentive staff hospitality were an added bonus – the icing on the cake!
On that first morning’s game drive, we saw so much wildlife. In the first hour, there were warthogs, buffalo, zebras, giraffes, impalas (easily distinguished from other antelope because of the black stripes on their rear end), and one lone bull elephant. There was no more wildlife for the next three-quarters of an hour, and I thought that was it. Then we came across a couple of saddle-billed storks, soon followed by a group of elephants. More wildlife quickly followed: different types of antelopes, four or five herds of elephants, a large flock of stocks fishing in a pool of water (different to those seen earlier), baboons, more warthogs, lots more buffalo, and cross it off my bucket list, a pod of hippos in a waterhole. The zebras had several foals in the herd, while the elephant herds had elephants of differing sizes (ages).
Wildlife seen on the morning game drive – elephants, hippos, zebras, and impala.
Wildlife seen on the morning game drive – a giraffe family and a saddle-billed stork.
At 9.30 am, we stopped in a clearing in the bush for coffee/tea and muffins. There’s that picnic again! Always welcome after such an early breakfast.
Usually, a game drive lasts three hours, but this one lasted five hours as we had to take a couple of guests to the airstrip for their flight out of Stanley’s Camp. The plane had to abort its first attempt at landing because there were impalas on the airstrip. Once again, we waited for the plane to take off before continuing our game drive.
As I lay on my bed resting between lunch and high tea, I watched monkeys darting around outside my tent and heard antelope (at least I hoped it was antelope) munching on the grass on the other side of my canvas wall.
We spent most of the afternoon game drive looking for lions. Lion tracks could be seen, but there were no lions or any other wildlife, for that matter. However, after two hours of nothing, we came across impalas and giraffes, several warthogs (nature’s ugliest animal?), a lone wildebeest, kudus with their distinctive white stripes down their backs and pink colouring inside large ears, and a large herd of elephants (the largest I have seen so far).
Wildlife seen on our afternoon game drive – a baby elephant peeking out between two adult elephants, a warthog, an elephant up close, and a kudu.
As the sun lowered in the sky, a hippo suddenly emerged from the bushes and ran across in front of the vehicle. They can run very fast – no wonder hippos are Africa’s most dangerous animal, with the most human deaths attributed to them. When we rounded the corner of a clump of trees, there was a lagoon with many hippos in it. I was thrilled. Hippos and elephants were what I had come to Botswana for. We stopped by the lagoon for our game-drive coffee and snacks, which I barely had time to consume because I was taking so many photos of the hippos in the lagoon.
A pod of hippos – seen on a game drive in the late afternoon.
A male hippo shows his domination by displaying his teeth and jaw.
What I learned today:
The darker the patches on a giraffe, the older the giraffe. The giraffes seen this afternoon were very old according to the colour of their patches.
The patches on a giraffe are like human fingerprints – the patch patterns are unique to each giraffe, just like the stripes on zebras.
Wildebeests are herd animals; seeing one by itself means it is old and has been kicked out by the herd.
Back at camp, I bought a beautifully carved wooden hippo at the camp’s shop to celebrate seeing hippos in the wild. The staff wrapped it tighter than a sausage, binding it in sticky tape to protect it from damage. Customs in Australia will have a hard time opening it to check the wood.
We had dinner tonight under the stars, around the campfire. The sky is unhindered at Stanley’s Camp, and the night sky is a mass of stars.
My second morning’s game drive started with a wake-up call at 5.15 am and leaving camp at 6.00 am before breakfast. The early start was because we were driving to Moremi Game Reserve for our game drive. Since we missed breakfast, the staff had packed extra food for our mid-game drive picnic. So, instead of morning tea, we had brunch.
The game drive through Moremi Game Reserve was uneventful. However, we did see a couple of honey badgers, which is rare.
This day, lunch was not back at camp but was set up in the veld by staff who had brought everything from the kitchen. It was a lovely setting, with zebras roaming in the distance, and a unique experience.
I spent the afternoon reading on my veranda’s daybed while watching two elephants getting closer and closer to my tent.
I must admit that after a couple of days of breakfasts, lunches, dinners, game drive picnics, and high teas, I started skipping meals. We were fed so often at Stanley’s Camp that I just wasn’t hungry by the evening meal.
On my final game drive, I saw elephants, kudus, and heaps of impalas. But the highlight was photographing a leopard chilling out in the branches of a tree.
A leopard relaxes in a tree as he surveys his territory.
Why I recommend Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp
The accommodation at Stanley’s Camp is glamping at its best. The ‘rooms’ are comfortable and beautifully fitted out, and they are an ideal place to relax and wind down after a game drive when you want time to yourself.
Stanley’s Camp feels intimate, with only ten tents (‘rooms’).
Your tent is situated on the edge of a vast, open plain (veld), offering an uninhibited view of wildlife roaming across it.
The attention provided by the staff was individual and personalised. Having the same guide throughout my stay ensured my needs were met, even when they didn’t have to be! When I opted to forego an afternoon game drive for a rest, my guide arranged for high tea to be brought to my tent. I believe he went above and beyond – meeting my wants rather than my needs. I could not fault the staff and management.
The game drive vehicles at Stanley’s Camp were open-sided, making spotting wildlife much easier. As Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp is on a private concession, we could get up close to animals (always when safe to do so).
Staff care about your welfare. When I got sunburnt (pack the sunscreen!), a staff member phoned its sister camp in the Okavango Delta for sunscreen for me. Unfortunately, there was none to be had! We were travelling on dirt roads on game drives and could be tossed about in the vehicle. When going over particularly rough sections, our guide would turn around and ask if we were all still in the vehicle.
Wherever I travel, I will always seek out high tea venues. When I booked Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp, I was unaware that high tea was included. That it was served every afternoon was a delightful bonus.
Ask yourself, why would you not stay at Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp? From a seasoned traveller and someone who lived in Namibia for several years, I highly recommend a wildlife safari holiday at Stanley’s Camp.
A note on when to go
I travelled to the Okavango Delta in early November. In hindsight, it was not the ideal time to go, as it was very hot and humid due to the late start of the wet season. There was no escaping the heat, something I usually thrive on. My guide told me the temperature over the three full days of my stay had been 38, 41, and 43 degrees Celsius, respectively, with the humidity at 88%. What rain I did see (on my final evening) lasted five minutes and didn’t even wet the ground.
While the timing of seasons can be unpredictable, perhaps it is best to take your African safari in Botswana at the beginning of the wet season rather than at the end!
See here for the best time to visit the Okavango Delta. My trip to Botswana had been a last-minute decision due to an unforeseen need to change travel plans, and I did not consider the weather!
My stay at Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp in Botswana’s Okavango Delta was nothing short of extraordinary. From the luxurious comfort of glamping under the African sky to the thrill of witnessing wildlife in its natural habitat, every moment felt magical. The attentive and warm hospitality from the staff only enhanced my experience, making it feel both intimate and unforgettable. Whether you’re a seasoned safari-goer or a first-timer, Stanley’s Camp offers a perfect blend of adventure and relaxation. It’s a place where nature and luxury harmonise, leaving you with memories that will last a lifetime.
I highly recommend Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp as your destination of choice.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. Unless specifically stated, all photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
STAY AT LUXURY ZAINA LODGE IN GHANA FOR AMAZING WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS. Looking for a unique African safari experience? Zaina Lodge is a luxury safari destination in Ghana’s Mole National Park. Explore how to get there, when to visit, and what makes Zaina Lodge stand out. Get inspired for your next journey!
See Sri Lanka’s Colonial Galle Fort – a Must-Visit World Heritage Site Best Explored on Foot. Welcome to Galle Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an iconic landmark…
See Sri Lanka’s Colonial Galle Fort – a Must-Visit World Heritage Site Best Explored on Foot.
Welcome to Galle Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an iconic landmark on Sri Lanka’s southwest coast. Galle Fort is a living testament to the island’s rich history and cultural fusion, offering visitors a unique and immersive e experience. Its cobblestone streets, ancient ramparts, intriguing museums, and vibrant markets make it a must-visit destination for any traveller to Sri Lanka.
This comprehensive guide takes you on a leisurely walk around Galle Fort. You’ll discover its historical sites and hidden gems, including the iconic lighthouse and historic Dutch Reform Church. As an ‘ultimate’ guide, I have included personal suggestions on where to eat, where to stay, and when to go.
From walking atop its well-preserved ramparts with panoramic views of the Indian Ocean to exploring its maze of streets lined with boutique shops, cafes, and museums, Galle Fort captures the essence of Sri Lanka’s diverse cultural heritage.
So, whether you’re a history buff, a culture enthusiast, or just looking for a relaxing walk around a beautiful, quaint city, Galle Fort is perfect for you. Follow my guide and spend one perfect day in Galle Fort, exploring the best of what it has to offer.
Why visit Galle Fort?
Galle Fort is rich in history, with 400 years of Portuguese, Dutch, and British colonialism. Built by the Portuguese in 1589, the Dutch seized the Fort in 1640 and extended its fortifications, which survive to this day. The British modified the Fort after the Dutch handed it to them in 1796. Galle Fort is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and remains the best example in south and southeast Asia of a fortified town built by Europeans.
Galle Fort is protected by a wall (ramparts) with 14 bastions that have seen little change since the Portuguese completed it in 1729. The fortifications run for 3 kilometres and are over 1 metre thick. Inside the Fort is a mixture of architecture, with Dutch-colonial buildings, ancient mosques and churches, and grand mansions. Here, you will find cafés, restaurants, boutiques, museums, and hotels. It is also a thriving commercial centre.
With a relatively flat area of only 0.52 square kilometres within the fortifications, Galle Fort is easy to walk around and see everything. It is also a good base for day trips to the southern beaches, gardens, tea factories, rain forests, and nature walks.
Galle Fort is a historically fortified town, with the New Town of Galle outside the walls. The Fort is on the southwestern tip of Sri Lanka, 126 kilometres (78 miles) down the west coast from Colombo (Sri Lanka’s capital).
I travelled to Sri Lanka with my sister and brother-in-law for a three-week trip around this teardrop-shaped island. Ours was a private tour with a personal driver, the most comfortable way to get around. However, given its size, travelling around Sri Lanka by taxi, bus, and train is also possible as distances between sights are relatively short.
For a comprehensive guide on getting around Sri Lanka, check out Nerd Nomads’ travel blog post.
We took the coast road to Galle rather than the expressway at our driver’s suggestion. While taking the expressway would have been quicker (approximately 1.5 hours as opposed to approximately 3 hours), the coast road, according to our driver, is more interesting and scenic. And it was! Hugging the coastline, we passed through many small villages that provided a glimpse into local daily life, where farmers and fishermen continue to live and work as they have done for generations.
The drive down to Galle was our first real experience of driving in Sri Lanka. I have been in many countries where I thought the general population were terrible drivers, but Sri Lankan drivers take the prize. Their idea or practice of passing is downright scary.
Picture this: You have a two-lane road barely wide enough for two cars, with one lane for each direction. Suddenly, your lane has three vehicles side-by-side (including your own, with your driver on his mobile phone) as two vehicles want to pass one, and a bus is coming in the opposite direction. No one gives way as all four vehicles come level with each other, and all you can do is close your eyes and hold your breath. And yet, I never saw an accident!
I learned a valuable lesson on this drive – don’t ever think of doing a self-drive holiday in Sri Lanka, as you may never survive the experience. Their driving and use of the roads are, for these foreigners, positively frightening. My brother-in-law was never able to relax when we were driving. For some reason, he always managed to get the seat with a clear view out of the front windscreen, causing him to remain transfixed on the traffic and in a perpetual state of anxiety.
Galle Fort walking guide
We decided on an early start for our walk around Galle Fort, its bastions, ramparts (walls), and landmarks so that we would be finished before the day got too hot. In hindsight, it makes no difference in April, heat-wise, what time of day you venture out, as it is always very hot and wet (humidity, not rain).
After a leisurely breakfast at the Fort Bazaar (our hotel) of fresh fruit, bacon and eggs, and freshly ground coffee, we set off on our self-guided tour (walk) of Galle Fort. Following our route, you will visit all the major attractions and more.
Gall Fort tourist map (Courtesy of Fort Bazaar)
Walking up Church Street (Galle Fort’s main thoroughfare) towards the main gate and the Clock Tower, we passed All Saints Anglican Church with its distinctive stumpy steeple and the Maritime Archaeological Museum.
All Saints Anglican Church with its distinctive stumpy steeple.
Our first stop on Church Street was at the Dutch Reform Church (corner of Church and Middle Streets). Originally built in 1640 and completed by the Dutch in 1755, the church is still in use. Tombstones removed from Dutch cemeteries are laid on the floor of the Dutch Reform Church – the oldest date from 1662. There are more tombstones in the church’s grounds.
Street view of the Dutch Reform Church next to Galle Fort’s library.
Tombstones on the floor of the Dutch Reform Church.
Leaving the Dutch Reform Church, we continued up Church Street, making our way to the Clock Tower, our starting point for our walk along the Fort’s ramparts.
Heading east and past the Main Gate, we walked up onto the ramparts at the Moon Bastion, with its large Clock Tower built by the British in 1882.
Moon Bastion has an unhindered view of the ocean and is considered one of the main bastions of the Fort. It was built by the Portuguese in 1620 and strengthened by the Dutch in 1667 with a strong firepower base, including 16 canons. Sri Lanka’s Ministry of National Heritage has converted Moon Bastion into an art gallery with statues, sculptures, and art that depict people and events that mattered in the past.
The Clock Tower on Moon Bastion.
Statues on Moon Bastion
From here, you can see the length of the northern ramparts (east to west) to the Star Bastion and Sun Bastion.
View to Star Bastion
View to Sun Bastion and Galle Harbour.
The northern ramparts are the most heavily fortified section of the ramparts as they protect the most vulnerable side of the Fort – the landward side. The Indian Ocean surrounds Galle Fort on three sides.
For those cricket fans: These northern ramparts, especially at the Sun Bastion, provide a good view of the Galle International Cricket Stadium outside the Fort. This massive, 30,000-seater stadium has hosted more than 100 one-day international matches. Australian bowler Shane Warne claimed his 500th Test wicket at the stadium in 2004. In 2010, Sri Lanka’s legendary cricket player, Muttiah Muralitharan, played his last match at this venue. However, as of July 2018, Galle International Cricket Stadium was at risk of losing its UNESCO World Heritage status due to the unauthorised construction of a 500-seat pavilion.
Turning south at the Sun Bastion, we came to the Fishmark Bastion, built to protect the local fishing boats.
Fishermen sell their catch of the day below Fishmark Bastion.
We left the ramparts at Fishmark Bastion to walk through Court Square, where we stopped at the Old Gate. This gate was the original entrance to the Fort and the only section of the Portuguese fortification that remains. The Fort side of the Old Gate is inscribed with the Dutch East India Company’s coat of arms, while the port side of the gate is adorned with a British coat of arms (which replaced the original Dutch crest).
The Old Gate with the Dutch East India Company Crest
The Old Gate with British Coat of Arms
Court Square is shaded by magnificent, massive banyan trees with branches that seem to spread forever. The Square houses the law courts (with the lawyers standing around in their black suits) and the Old Dutch Hospital (the white, two-story building on the left in the photo below). The Old Dutch Hospital is now home to shops and cafes.
Court Square with its massive banyan trees.
Heading south down Hospital Street, we found ourselves at the Point Utrecht Bastion, which is dominated by Galle Lighthouse. The British built the current lighthouse in 1939 after the original was destroyed by fire. With the lighthouse standing 26.5 metres high (87 feet), the light has a range of 47 nautical miles (87 kilometres / 54 miles) and is still in use. Galle Lighthouse is Sri Lanka’s oldest light station.
Galle Lighthouse on Point Utrecht Bastion.
We climbed back onto the wall at the lighthouse and walked along the southern rampart towards Flag Rock. Along this south section of the wall, families gathered on the shaded grass, picnicking and playing cricket.
Walking past the Meeran Jumma Mosque, which looks very much like a European Baroque church, we came to Flag Rock, located on the southernmost end of the Fort. People dive from Flag Rock into the ocean – described as daring free-style divers. I saw a young man run along the top of the rock and dive from it. “Idiot” might be a better description than “daring”. “Clearly potty” is how one guidebook describes these jumpers. Perhaps they have insider knowledge of exactly where the submerged rocks are.
Meeran Jumma Mosque
Local boys dive off Flag Rock.
We finally headed north as the ramparts hugged the west coast. We ended our ramble along Galle Fort’s ramparts near the army barracks, just before the Clock Tower where we had begun. Here, we cut across the village green past the Army Barracks, as I had thrown a hissy fit, being upset that we were still walking in the heat. This was a shortcut back to our hotel and a welcomed decision.
The guidebooks and tourist brochures inform you that the walk along the ramparts will take 90 minutes. We took almost twice that length of time due to the heat and constant stopping to take photos. It’s surprising how hard it is to lift your feet when weighed down by heat and humidity!
We made a couple more stops before returning to our hotel for a well-earned rest in our air-conditioned rooms.
We felt a long, cool drink on the wide veranda of the luxury Amangalla Hotel was warranted before visiting the Historical Mansion Museum (at 31-39 Leyn Baan Street – entrance is free). This museum has an extensive private collection of antiques and miscellaneous objects (described by one guidebook as “outright junk”). The collection belongs to Abdul Gaffar, a local gem merchant, and is displayed in an old Dutch mansion. In my opinion, Gaffar has a serious hoarding problem, with rooms and cabinets stuffed full of old typewriters, cameras, telephones, crockery, spectacles, jewellery and old Chinese memorabilia. To describe this collection as bizarre is to be very kind and generous. It was just downright weird! For that reason alone, it is worth the visit. The museum does provide insight into some traditional crafts with presentations of lace embroidery, gem cutting and jewellery making. However, be cautious if you have asthma because the museum is very, very dusty.
Where to eat
Lunch on our walk was at the Serendipity Arts Café (65 Leyn Baan Street), which one guidebook recommended. The food was good. I had a delicious chicken club sandwich, which was not very imaginative of me.
Our first night’s dinner was in the restaurant at the Galle Fort Hotel (at 28 Church Street), which was recommended by guidebooks.
The Galle Fort Hotel was a former gem merchant’s mansion. The restaurant’s setting was picture-perfect, with the tables on the wide veranda overlooking the pool and garden.
We had dinner at The Fort Printers (39 Pedlar Street) on our second night in Galle Fort. This elegant, small private hotel (a restored 18th-century mansion) was a printing facility in its former life. The original printing press is on display in the hotel lobby. We discovered this hotel on our morning walk. I found the menu limiting as I am allergic to seafood, which was the restaurant’s specialty. My sister and brother-in-law have no such allergy and loved the menu choices. However, the menu included chicken, lamb, and vegetarian dishes. The restaurant is in a lovely setting in a courtyard around a small pool. We were tucked into an alcove at the side of the courtyard that afforded a good level of privacy, which was just as well as our conversation became quite lively and animated. Even so, our waiter did not forget us. The staff were friendly, attentive, knowledgeable about their menu, and ready to answer any questions. The food was so good we went back a second night.
Where to stay
We stayed three nights at Fort Bazaar inside Galle Fort’s fortified walls.
Fort Bazaar (at 26 Church Street, Galle Fort) was formerly a 17th-century merchant’s townhouse. Opening in 2016, Fort Bazaar is a small, luxury boutique spa hotel. Its 18 rooms are spacious, cool, and contemporarily furnished with comfortable four-poster beds. It is in a central location within the Fort, and complimentary tea and cakes are served daily between 3.00 and 4.00 pm on the terrace. My kind of hotel! I could not fault the staff, who were friendly, attentive and helpful. It was Sri Lankan hospitality at its best!
When to go
The weather can significantly affect your travel experience and will probably be one of the most important factors in your decision when to visit Sri Lanka. Sri Lanka has a tropical climate with a dry season and two wet (or monsoon) seasons.
With its rich history and stunning colonial architecture, Galle Fort offers a unique blend of culture and natural beauty throughout the year. However, certain seasons may be more suitable depending on your preferences and travel goals.
Galle, and subsequently Galle Fort, experiences the following seasonal patterns:
Dry Season: December to March – lowest rainfall and most days of sunshine
First Inter-Monsoon Season: April – a transition in weather patterns with relatively dry days and occasional rain
Southwest Monsoon (Yala Monsoon): May to September – more frequent rainfall, particularly in June and July
Second Inter-Monsoon Season: October to November – more rain than the dry season but less than during the Southwest Monsoon
I recommend you refer to the World Weather site for Galle for a comprehensive list of daily average minimum and maximum temperatures per month, average total rainfall per month, and average number of rain days per month.
On a personal note, the humidity was 80% during our walk around Galle Fort, which caused havoc with our DSLR cameras – fogged-up lenses and constant error messages that prevented photos from being taken. While I have never conclusively found out if these problems were due to the humidity, it is certainly something to be aware of.
The humidity also impacted my clothing. I wasn’t just perspiring; I was completely wet! I was wearing a dark pink T-shirt that I had washed several times before this trip. However, the pink dye was coming out of my T-shirt. It stained my body, camera strap, and camera where they touched the T-shirt. To top it off, the colour was bleached entirely out of the T-shirt where my backpack was touching it – to the point where my T-shirt looked as though it had been tie-dyed.
As your day draws to a close, you’ll find that this historic town has offered more than just a walk through time. From the majestic views atop the ramparts to the charming streets lined with Dutch colonial buildings, every moment spent in Galle Fort is a reminder of the rich tapestry of cultures that have shaped this unique destination. Whether you’ve indulged in the local cuisine, explored iconic landmarks and hidden gems, or simply soaked in the laidback atmosphere, Galle Fort leaves an unforgettable memory on every traveller.
But Galle Fort is not just a destination; it’s a journey through history, culture, and beauty, all within a day’s walk. So, if you’re planning a trip to Sri Lanka, make sure you add Galle Fort to your itinerary. You won’t regret it.
Editor’s Note: I originally published this blog post in April 2019 and have updated it for accuracy, relevance, and comprehensiveness.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and unsponsored. Unless expressly stated, all photos are my own and remain the copyright of Joanna Rath/Just Me Travel.
Learn where to find the best wildlife encounters, discover the natural beauty of the Hill Country, explore six World Heritage sites, wander through untamed gardens, and so much more.
Escape the crowds and visit Geoffrey Bawa’s garden. It is largely undiscovered by tourists, being something different from the ‘usual’ tourist attraction. Organise to have lunch while you are there.
Do as a local and walk the 6.5 kilometres along the railway line from Ella, across the iconic Nine Arch Bridge, and onto Demodara Railway Station. Catch the train back to Ella to complete your experience.
Mountains, Museums, and Medieval Magic: Catalonia Unveiled Through Unforgettable Day Trips for Every Traveller. Welcome to my travel blog, where I am excited to share with you exceptional day…
Mountains, Museums, and Medieval Magic: Catalonia Unveiled Through Unforgettable Day Trips for Every Traveller.
Welcome to my travel blog, where I am excited to share with you exceptional day trips beyond the streets of Barcelona. Join me as I recount my unforgettable experiences on five diverse and awe-inspiring tours from Barcelona. From towering mountains to rugged coastlines, from quaint medieval villages frozen in time to the birthplace of Surrealism, these five exceptional tours take you to another world of Catalonian beauty and wonder.
Catalonia’s diverse landscapes offer a diversity of experiences. Embarking on day trips from Barcelona opens up a world of exploration, where each destination promises its unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. Whether you’re drawn to the spiritual heights of Montserrat, the sun-kissed shores of Costa Brava, the timeless charm of medieval villages, the rugged grandeur of the Pyrenees, or the artistic legacy of Salvador Dali, there’s a world of exploration waiting to be uncovered. Catalonia’s day trips have something for everyone!
I booked this tour from Australia before leaving for Spain.
Julia Travel promotes this small group trip as discovering “one of the most mystic Catalan wonders”.
Montserrat Monastery is an 11th-century Benedictine monastery on Montserrat Mountain (meaning ‘serrated mountain’), 60 kilometres northwest of Barcelona. The monastery hangs onto the side of the mountain 725 metres above sea level.
About 80 monks reside at the monastery, which is famous for the Black Madonna statue in the basilica and one of the oldest boys’ choirs in Europe.
Montserrat Monastery perched on the side of the mountain.
I took this photo of Montserrat Monastery across the valley at the Cross of St Michael.
The tour as I experienced it:
There were five of us on the Montserrat full-day tour, plus the guide. We travelled on the bus from Barcelona to Montserrat with the morning-only tour participants, separating into two groups (morning-only group and full-day group) on arrival at Montserrat Abbey.
An hour after leaving Barcelona, we arrived at the rack railway (also referred to as the Cremallera) at the bottom of Montserrat Mountain in the small town of Monistrol de Montserrat for the cogwheel train ride up the mountain to the centre of the Monserrat Monastery complex. The five-kilometre, 15-minute ride provided fantastic views of this unusual mountain. As you leave the train, pause to take in the views of the mountain that towers above the monastery and basilica and the deep valley below.
The morning was spent with our tour guide, learning about the monastery, visiting the basilica and Black Madonna, and watching a short documentary about the monastery’s world-famous Boys’ Choir (L’Escolania).
We could not see the Boys’ Choir perform in person as the boys were on school holidays.
The Atrium (open courtyard) in front of the Basilica and front facade of the Basilica.
The Black Madonna inside Montserrat Basilica.
The famous Black Madonna wooden statue sits behind glass at the back of the church above the high altar. We joined the queue of pilgrims and tourists to file past the Black Madonna, where many stopped to touch her hand through a cut in the glass.
According to our guide, the Madonna’s face is black due to a botched restoration in about the 12th century when the wrong varnish was used, turning her face black. It was decided to leave her face black, with locals saying that maybe the Madonna wanted a black face. However, historical descriptions of the Madonna say she has simply darkened over time. This latter theory makes more sense, given that the face of the baby Jesus sitting on Madonna’s lap also appears black.
The guided morning tour ended at 12.10 pm, and we were free to spend the rest of the day as we pleased, meeting again at 6.15 pm for the bus trip back to Barcelona.
With the afternoon free, I was eager to take a walk on Montserrat Mountain, starting at the top and walking down. To do this, I rode the Funicular de Sant Joan from Montserrat Monastery to the summit of Montserrat Mountain, about 300 metres above the monastery. I took the path to the left of the Funicular station that wound around and down the mountain to the Cross of Saint Michael (Sant Miquel)) and back down to the monastery.
The signpost at the beginning of the path indicated it was a 40-minute walk to the Cross of Saint Michael. The Cross was about one and a half hours into my very steep descent down Montserrat Mountain, and I still had about 20 minutes to go before I arrived back at the monastery. But I was in no hurry as I took in the spectacular views of Montserrat Mountain’s unique geological (‘serrated’) formation and the valleys and river below.
View from Montserrat (‘serrated’) Mountain.
Cross of Saint Michael and the valley below
While the walk down the mountain was not technically demanding (it’s a paved path nearly all the way), I did find the steep descent challenging. There were times when the decline was so steep my back was almost vertical to the path. The heat was another challenging factor. I’m sure I was on that mountain on its hottest day ever recorded!
Back at Montserrat Monastery, I had a late lunch at the cafeteria – a buffet that cost €19,50 and was not worth the money.
My tour review / final thoughts:
According to their website, Julia Travel no longer offers the full-day Montserrat tour from Barcelona that I did. Instead, they offer a morning (5.5 hours) and afternoon (4.5 hours) tour with the cogwheel train at €59 and €51, respectively.
Having done both the morning and full-day tours a few weeks apart, I believe a half-day tour does not allow time to immerse yourself in the beauty of the mountains where the monastery sits. While visiting the abbey and basilica and learning their history was interesting, the highlight for me was the walk on Montserrat Mountain. It would be a shame to miss out on one of the several walks you can take around Montserrat.
The Sant Jeroni walking trail on Montserrat Mountain
There was a communication issue with Julia Travel on this tour. Arriving in Montserrat, the guide sent us to grab a coffee as she was trying to contact Julia Travel to organise our entrance tickets into the basilica and the Black Madonna, delaying the start of the tour by half an hour. Then, when it came to leaving Montserrat, Julia Travel forgot there were five of us doing the full-day tour and supposedly leaving on the same bus as the afternoon tour. However, 50 people were on the afternoon tour, and it was a 50-seater bus. Consequently, we (the five full-day tour group) were taken off the bus and had to wait for another bus from Barcelona to come and get us. So, instead of leaving Montserrat at 6.15 pm, we left an hour later, arriving back in Barcelona at 8.10 pm. Luckily, it wasn’t dark as I had a 35-minute walk back to the hotel, and people were only starting to come out for dinner in restaurants then.
I found Julia Travel’s communication a repetitive problem. I had booked another tour with Julie Travel to Salvador Dali’s Theatre-Museum and Villages – a tour I was particularly keen on taking. However, arriving at 8.00 am at Julia Travel’s office on the day of the tour, I learned it had been cancelled. I received an apology for not being informed and a refund. However, this was not good enough and amounted to unacceptable customer service.
The setting alone makes Montserrat Monastery worth a visit. But it was the mountain walk that made this tour memorable for me.
Llobregat Valley and River taken from Montserrat Mountain
Explore Catalunya promotes this small group trip as the “Best tour for Dali enthusiasts, and you’ll see hidden treasures off the beaten path”.
The summer schedule for this day trip (1st July – 14th September) does not include the coastal village of Cadaques, which is included in the winter tour schedule. Instead, the summer schedule takes you to Gala Dali’s Castle in Pubol. I was on the summer schedule day trip.
Near the border with France and about 136 kilometres north of Barcelona, Figueres is famous for being the birthplace of the artist Salvador Dali, an artist I have been a fan of for many decades. It is also home to his world-famous Theatre and Museum.
The Dali Theatre-Museum is a museum dedicated solely to the Spanish artist Salvador Dali, a genius of Surrealism. Built by Dali, it is considered the world’s largest surrealist object and is crowded with his artworks – paintings, sculptures, photographs, and jewellery.
Built by Salvador Dali – the Dali Theatre-Museum in Figueres.
Salvador Dali’s painting “Soft Self-Portrait with Grilled Bacon” 1941.
Dali is buried in a crypt beneath the dome of his Theatre-Museum.
The tour as I experienced it:
On arrival in Figueres, we headed to the world-famous Dali Theatre-Museum for a half-hour guided tour with our Explore Catalunya guide. Following the guided tour, we had one and a half hours of free time to explore the three floors of the Theatre-Museum for ourselves.
After leaving Figueres at 12.45 pm, we drove a short half-hour to the pretty, seaside medieval village of Sant Marti d’Empuries on the Costa Brava. Here, we were given two hours of free time for lunch, to explore, or to take a dip in the Mediterranean Sea.
I had a delicious salad at L’Escalapi Restaurant and Pizzeria – a Goat’s Cheese Salad with lettuce, tomatoes, goat’s cheese, walnuts, pine nuts, sultanas, and mustard and honey dressing. Spain does salads so well! I followed up my salad with Sugar and Lemon Crepes. The total cost for lunch was €20 (AU$33).
I walked off lunch by wandering around Sant Marti d’Empuries, admiring its medieval buildings and checking out the beach – a lovely spot to stay a while.
Sant Marti d’Empuries – the village
Sant Marti d’Empuries – the beach
Our last stop for the day was Gala Dali’s Castle in the tiny village of Pubol. The castle is the house Salvador Dali bought for his wife. Salvador didn’t live here until after Gala’s death and had to be invited by Gala to visit.
We were given a half-hour guided tour inside the castle and half an hour of free time to explore its gardens. According to our guide, Gala wanted to design the interior herself, but there is substantial Salvador Dali influence (artworks) inside the castle and its grounds. I particularly loved the Dali sculptures of long-legged elephants in the gardens.
There’s an elephant in the garden!
Gala is buried in the crypt designed by her husband in the castle’s basement.
Leaving Pubol at 5.00 pm, we arrived in Barcelona at 6.45 pm.
My tour review / final thoughts:
I have been a fan of Salvador Dali for many decades, and visiting his Theatre Museum was on my bucket list as soon as I started planning my trip to Spain. And I wasn’t disappointed! As I viewed his works over three floors, I got a glimpse into his unique world and learned so much about the evolution of his artistic styles.
Salvador Dali – the master of Surrealism
Dali decorated his Theatre-Museum in his unique style
Dali’s “Mae West Lips Sofa” 1937-1937
Dali’s Lithograph “Eternal Circumcism” 1968
My only criticism of the two hours allocated in the Dali Theatre-Museum is that it wasn’t long enough. Viewing artworks should be a relaxed experience, but I felt rushed as I wanted to take in as much as possible. It also didn’t give me time to view the jewellery Dali designed for his wife or to visit the museum shop, where I had hoped to buy a book on Salvador Dali.
Here’s some trivia: Dali designed the Spanish lollipop Chupa Chups logo. I never knew Chupa Chups were Spanish! Perhaps I need to attend more trivia nights because the question of who created the Chupa Chups logo is, apparently, frequently asked.
Explore Catalunya must ensure the full tour description reflects the actual tour itinerary. Their detailed summer schedule full tour description maintains that Platge de Castell would be our last stop after Gala Dali’s Castle before returning to Barcelona. However, we never visited Platge de Castell, “one of those rare hidden corners you can still find on the Costa Brava”. Instead, we visited Sant Marti d’Empuries on the Mediterranean coast before heading to Gala’s Castle. I can’t say I was disappointed as I knew nothing about Platge de Castell, and Sant Marti d’Empuries was an enchanting village that I thoroughly enjoyed exploring.
I booked this tour because I wanted to see as much as possible about Salvador Dali that was available at the time. As such, I was pleased Explore Catalunya included Gala Dali’s Castle in the tour. I must admit, I found Gala’s home uninteresting but did enjoy wandering through the castle’s grounds. The hour at Gala Dali’s Castle was more than sufficient time to see everything there was.
Explore Catalunya promotes this small group trip as being transported “to one of the most breathtakingly beautiful stretches of coastline in the whole of Europe – the Costa Brava”.
The Costa Brava is a coastal region of Catalonia on the Mediterranean Sea in northeastern Spain. It stretches from Blanes, a city 60 kilometres northeast of Barcelona, to the French border.
The tour as I experienced it:
About an hour’s drive from Barcelona, we arrived in Blanes – the gateway to Costa Brava. We didn’t stop in Blanes (a city of nearly 50,000 people) but drove straight to Cala Sant Francesc – a picturesque small cove with yellow sand and turquoise waters.
Alighting from the bus on the hill above Cala Sant Francesc, our guide gave us the option to spend our two hours’ free time at the beach or walking around the nearby Marimurtra Botanical Garden. I chose the Botanical Garden, described as one of the most beautiful gardens on the Mediterranean.
Marimurtra Botanical Garden
Marimurtra Botanical Garden is situated on the top of a cliff, providing stunning views of the picturesque Costa Brava with its white sand coves, crystal clear turquoise and aqua waters, and rugged coastline.
Costa Brava viewed from Marimurtra Botanical Garden.
Costa Brava’s coastline.
Leaving Cala Sant Francesc at 12.30 pm, we headed for lunch at a family-owned typical Mediterranean restaurant outside of Blanes. Our set menu consisted of a selection of traditional local dishes for starters with a glass of Sangria, a choice of several main courses, and a choice of Mel i Moto (a traditional Catalan dessert) or ice cream.
After a leisurely lunch, we drove for about half an hour to Tossa de Mar – a resort town home to the last preserved fortified town on the Costa Brava coast. Upon arrival, our guide took us on an orientation walk through the town and then given over an hour of free time.
I didn’t go for a swim in the waters of the very crowded beach or seek a coffee in the many cafes and restaurants packed with people. I opted instead to walk up the hill to the lighthouse and fortifications on the town’s highest point.
From the lighthouse and fortifications, I could see over the town, the many boats moored in Tossa de Mar’s bay, and a panoramic view of the Mediterranean Sea with its blue waters and rugged coastline.
Tossa de Mar – town, beach and fortifications
Tossa de Mar was our last stop for the day. An hour and a half drive saw us back in Barcelona.
My tour review / final thoughts:
According to Explore Catalunya, the picturesque Cala Sant Francesc is “one of the few remaining coves on the coast that have avoided the crowds of tourists and big commercial developments and are known only to locals”. All I can say is there must be a lot of locals because the cove’s beach was crowded. Explore Catalunya goes on to say we would have the beach to ourselves. I think they need to rewrite their tour description!
“Uncrowded” Cala Sant Francesc
I enjoyed wandering around the Marimurtra Botanical Garden and admiring its more than four thousand plant species. However, my highlight of the day trip was the hilltop Garden’s coastal views. The Garden provides the most spectacular views of Costa Brava’s beautiful small coves, crystal clear waters, and the rugged coastline of the Mediterranean Sea.
The Mediterranean Sea framed by Marimurtra Botanical Garden
Explore Catalunya’s detailed description for The Costa Brava tour states: “After leaving the beach and gardens, we will continue up to the old castle ruins for another amazing view of the coast.” Unfortunately, this did not occur, leaving me disappointed, as I would have loved to see more of Costa Brava’s coastline.
Lunch was delicious. I had a great salad with lettuce, brie cheese, walnuts, and fruits for my mains. Since I am not fond of ice cream, I had the Mel i Moto – a traditional Catalan dessert of Catalan cheese with honey. It was an interesting dessert but not unpleasant, and I could have had another bowl with more honey. Since arriving home, I have tried making this dessert with ricotta cheese, but it doesn’t taste the same (not as good).
My impression of Tossa de Mar is that of a very crowded tourist town, one I would typically avoid. However, I did enjoy the views from the lighthouse and fortifications of Costa Brava’s dramatic coastline.
Costa Brava’s rugged coastline at Tessa de Mar
Overall, the day trip to Costa Brava was long but enjoyable, and I recommend it.
Explore Catalunya promotes this day trip as a journey back to the medieval age, visiting the beautifully preserved villages of Besalu and Tavertet and enjoying free time in Rupit village.
The tour as I experienced it:
Leaving Barcelona at 8.30 am, we arrived in Besalu, our first medieval village, at about 10.00 am. Upon arrival, we (there were five guests on the tour) were given 20 minutes for a coffee and a bite to eat. We then headed across Besalu’s most significant feature – its 12th-century Romanesque bridge over the Fluvia River with its seven arches and a fortified gateway at its midpoint. Having crossed the bridge, we immediately entered Besalu’s medieval old town, where our Explore Catalunya driver-guide provided a 20-minute guided familiarisation walking tour around the Old Town.
The medieval town of Besalu and its Romanesque bridge.
After the guided walking tour, we had one hour to explore Besalu independently.
Founded in 878 AD, Besalu is an enchanting medieval town in the foothills of the southeastern section of the Pyrenees. It is one of Spain’s most beautiful and best-preserved medieval towns and was declared a historic and artistic site of national importance in 1966.
Today, Besalu has a population of 2,512 (2023) living there permanently.
Besalu is home to an 11th-century church and hospital, a 12th-century monastery, the remains of a medieval castle, and an ancient Jewish Quarter, where you will find the ruins of a medieval synagogue and a 12th-century Mikvka (Jewish ritual bathhouse).
Besalu’s old town is built entirely from sandstone, giving the village a golden, warm hue. Cafes fill the pretty squares, and narrow cobblestone streets wind through the village. As to be expected, souvenir shops line the streets. However, glancing into shops as I walked past them made me think they were of a better quality than most you see.
A narrow cobblestone street leads to a small square
10th-century Iglesia Sant Vicenc – the oldest church in Besalu
Besalu’s main square, Placa de la Llibertat, is in the centre of the old town and a great place to sit with a drink or ice cream and people-watch.
Cafes and restaurants line Besalu’s main square
I found the wooden chairs attached to the Old Town’s stone walls a thought-provoking addition to Besalu’s medieval architecture. However, I never got an answer about the reason for this art installation.
After about an hour’s drive from Besalu and up narrow, winding roads into the Pyrenees, we arrived at the medieval village of Rupit. A river, forest, waterfalls, and caves surround the village, which is 822 metres above sea level in a valley adjacent to the Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park.
Rupit was in stark contrast to Besalu. Instead of the pale stone buildings that give Besalu an air of warmth, all the houses in Rupit are built with basalt stone, giving the village a dark, forbidding appearance.
The medieval village of Rupert, with houses built in basalt
Rupit is smaller than Besalu, with about 160 permanent residents and just two main streets. The United Nations World Tourism Organisation (UNWTO) has described it as “one of the jewels of Catalonia in Spain.”
Rupit has received two awards in recent years:
UNWTO named it ‘Best Tourism Villages 2022’ for its “development of sustainable and responsible tourism.”
It has been awarded ‘European Charming Villages’ by the COSME Initiative of the European Union.
Before arriving in Rupit, our driver-guide gave us the option of free time to explore the village or to join him at a local restaurant for a set menu Catalonian lunch. I opted for lunch with three other guests and our driver-guide – a big mistake! Don’t get me wrong, the three-course lunch was delicious and a leisurely affair, but it took all our allocated two hours of free time in Rupit.
Two hours for lunch in Spain is the norm, but we had no time to explore the village. After several guests voiced their disappointment, our driver-guide gave us ten minutes to explore Rupit.
A street in Rupit
Rupit, where many streets are stairs
Our final stop before heading back to Barcelona was at a clifftop lookout in the tiny village of Tavertet, overlooking the valley below and the Guilleries mountain range. From this viewpoint, we could see the large Sau Reservoir, villages, and the odd lone house in the valley below.
View of the valley and mountain range from Tavertet lookout
My tour review / final thoughts:
Besalu:
Grabbing a takeaway coffee instead of sitting down for 20 minutes would have been a better option, allowing more time for the guided walk around Besalu.
I would have liked more time to explore Besalu at a relaxed pace rather than rushing from street to street to see as much as possible and take as many photos as possible.
According to the detailed description on Explore Catalunya’s website, the Medieval Villages tour includes “visit a restored mikveh (an old Jewish bath from the 12th century), and see the remains of a medieval synagogue”. Neither of these happened.
We were discouraged from seeing the old Jewish bath with an explanation that to do so was too hard. We would have to walk back over the bridge (at this point, we were inside the walled town) to the tourist office, get the key for the bath, and then take the key back to the tourist office once having seen the bath. There was also an admission fee involved.
I got the distinct impression that our guide just couldn’t be bothered taking us to visit the restored mikvah and ruins of the medieval synagogue. I found this extremely disappointing as I have a strong interest in Jewish history.
Castellfollit de la Roca:
On the drive to Rupit, our driver-guide pointed to Castellfollit de la Roca village, perched on the edge of a basalt precipice. I have seen several photos of Castellfollit de la Roca on Instagram and have always been in awe of its precarious location. I was okay with not exploring the village but felt incredibly disappointed that we drove straight past and didn’t pull off the road for a photo stop.
Rupit:
Opting to have lunch in a restaurant in Rupit was a missed opportunity to explore the village. It was a shame that our driver-guide failed to advise us that lunch in the restaurant would take up all our free time in Rupit. Had he done so, I would have grabbed something to eat at the bakery and used the two hours to explore the village and walk along the river to discover its pools and waterfalls.
Tavertet:
Explore Catalunya’s detailed description for this tour states that a visit is made to Tavertet village. “With your guide, visit this charming village, which was declared a National Property of Cultural Interest due to its 48 preserved houses from the 17th and 18th centuries. Learn interesting facts about this village as you admire the houses and the 11th-century Romanesque Church of Sant Cristofol.” However, we did not visit Tavertet; we merely drove straight through to the viewpoint on the cliff edge of the village for a panoramic view of the valley below. It was a shame we did not go into Tavertet, as I was looking forward to seeing the houses.
Explore Catalunya advertises that The Small Group Medieval Villages Day Trip from Barcelona lasts 11 hours. However, on this day, it was only ten hours. The additional hour would have allowed the advertised visit to Tavertet village or more time in Besalu.
Final thoughts:
Besalu is a delightful village worth visiting. However, I would have found a full day in Besalu to explore all its nooks and crannies of more value.
Ten minutes to explore Rupit and a short walk along one street to the restaurant was not enough time to make an informed comment on Rupit. However, what I did see had me wanting more.
I cannot comment on Tavertet, as we only drove quickly through the village to the lookout.
I enjoyed the Medieval Villages Day Trip, but I suspect the enjoyment was more about getting out of Barcelona for the day than the trip itself. In truth, I ended the day feeling disappointed and cheated.
Explore Catalunya promotes this day trip as “The only day tour from Barcelona that takes groups into the Pyrenees Mountains”.
There were five guests on this day trip (including myself) and our driver-guide, Steven. The tour’s destination was Vall de Nuria (Nuria’s Valley) in the Pyrenees via Vic and Queralbs.
The tour as I experienced it:
Our departure from Barcelona at 8.30 am had us arriving in Vic (pronounced Bic) about an hour later.
Vic is about 69 kilometres north of Barcelona on the Meder River. It is an ancient city, dating back to the Ausetan Iberians before Roman occupation in the 1st century AD, with an interesting and picturesque medieval Old Town.
On a 20-minute guided walking tour around the Old Town, we passed through several small pretty squares with cafes preparing for the day.
A bicycle adds a touch of romance to a courtyard cafe.
A pretty square makes an ideal spot for a cafe.
The guided walking tour ended in Cathedral Square at the Roman Catholic cathedral, Catedral de Sant Pere Apostol (Cathedral of Saint Peter the Apostle).
I found the interior of Vic’s Sant Pere Cathedral to be unlike anything I had seen previously. Huge, almost monochromatic canvases painted by Joseph Maria Sert representing the mystery of redemption cover the walls, making the interior dark and gloomy – an unexpected contrast to the cathedral’s light-coloured stone exterior. It wasn’t a place I wanted to linger! However, your reaction may be very different.
Vic’s Sant Pere Cathedral
Joseph Maria Sert painting inside Sant Pere Cathedral
Explore Catalunya’s visits to Vic coincide with traditional market days, which take place on Tuesdays and Saturdays in the arched main square (one of the biggest in Spain). Stalls of every sort filled the square.
Our half-hour of free time had me scouring the market stalls and nearby shops for something suitable for a takeaway lunch. Steven advised us that the food at Vall de Nuria’s café was not the best and recommended that we buy lunch in Vic.
From Vic, we drove up into the Pyrenees to the small village of Queralbs, which sits at an altitude of 1,236 metres. It is the last vehicle-accessible village on the way up to Vall de Nuria (Nuria’s Valley), a beautiful valley in the eastern Pyrenees. The final six kilometres from Queralbs to Vall de Nuria must be travelled by rack railway – a 20-minute journey to an altitude of 1,964 metres. But first, there was a guided walking tour through Queralbs.
Queralbs is an ancient village dating back to 833 AD. With its traditionally built stone houses perched on the side of the mountain, “this impossibly quaint, picture postcard beautiful hamlet is one of the most memorable parts of the day” (Explore Catalunya). I couldn’t agree more! The village was picture-perfect.
The village of Queralbs in the Pyrenees.
The traditional stone houses of Queralbs.
The walking tour ended at the Romanesque Esglesia de Sant Jaume (Church of Saint James) – one of Spain’s oldest surviving Romanesque churches.
Queralbs’ Romanesque St James Church.
Time to catch the rack railway train to Vall de Nuria!
Vall de Nuria is a glacial valley in the eastern Pyrenees, 120 kilometres from Barcelona, 1,964 metres above sea level, and surrounded by mountains nearly 3,000 metres high. It is remote and only accessible by rack railway. The ski resort and Nuria Lake dominate the valley, offering spectacular mountain landscapes, winter skiing, and summer hiking trails.
Vall de Nuria viewed from the top of the cable car run.
Vall de Nuria landscape with a view of the lake and resort.
With two hours to explore the valley before catching the train back down the mountain, I decided to hike one of the many trails in the hills around the valley. These trails range from easy to challenging.
Given my limited time, I chose an easy trail, the Way of the Crosses. I was told it would take 50 minutes to walk, but I knew it would take longer as I would keep stopping to take photos and admire the breathtaking views. The trail gets its name from the Christian Way of the Cross tradition, with twelve crosses along the way. I made the hike easier on myself by walking down the mountain rather than up. I did this by taking the cable car to the summit, bringing me to an altitude of 2,170 metres. Consequently, I passed the crosses in reverse – from twelve to one.
Way of the Crosses – Station 6.
Way of the Crosses – Station 5.
We missed our scheduled train back down the mountain to Queralbs because one couple failed to turn up at the meeting point even though Steven’s instructions were clear. No one knew where they were. I could tell Steven was worried, but he handled it calmly. Eventually, Steven decided we would catch the next train and leave the unreliable couple to fend for themselves. Surprise, surprise! When we arrived back at Queralbs Rack Railway Station (45 minutes late), our errant couple were waiting for us. They had decided to forego the meeting point and catch the train on their own.
From about halfway down the Stations of the Cross trail, the sky was getting blacker and blacker. By the time I reached the bottom, thunder was rolling around the mountains.
Vall de Nuria – a storm rolls inover the Pyrenees
Just as we were about to board our train back down the mountain, the heavens opened, and heavy rain and hail bucketed down. As we travelled the six kilometres from Vall de Nuria to Queralbs, the rain got heavier and heavier. Running from the train to the station building had us soaked to the skin, and I mean soaked. Water was pouring off me, off my hair and my clothes.
Our misfortunes did not end with a missing couple and soaking rain. Shortly after leaving Queralbs for our drive down the mountain, we came to a grinding halt. Traffic wasn’t going anywhere! The river beside the road was a raging torrent, so I thought maybe the road was flooded. After about 20-30 minutes, the male of our errant couple went to investigate what was happening up ahead – to make up for their “misunderstanding” about the meeting point. He told us there was a mudslide with rocks over the road and water pouring down the mountain. People were staring at this catastrophe, immobile. But our errant male (sorry, I will always think of him as such) started moving the rocks, and others helped. We were moving again! Meanwhile, it was sunny and 30 degrees Celsius in Barcelona!
My tour review / final thoughts:
In Vic, I struggled, wasting a lot of time trying to find suitable food for a takeaway lunch. I couldn’t even find a small supermarket in the streets around the main square. I found a bakery that looked promising, but the queue was too long to wait for service. I was conscious about arriving back at the meeting place on time. Had I known in advance about the recommendation to purchase a takeaway lunch, I would have brought food with me. In hindsight, I am sorry I didn’t risk the cafe at Vall de Nuria because the lentil salad I bought in Vic for lunch was pretty ordinary.
Explore Catalunya advertises the tour as 11 hours in duration. However, the tour was 11 hours only because we were late leaving Vall de Nuria back to Queralbs and encountered a mudslide driving down the mountain. I felt cheated because I would have loved more time on the mountain. The additional hour would have allowed me time to walk around the lake, visit the sanctuary, or have a cup of coffee.
I thoroughly enjoyed this day trip to the Pyrenees Mountains. What an adventure!
Don’t get me wrong; I have enjoyed all my day trips with Explore Catalunya, but this one seemed a bit more special. Perhaps it was the breathtaking landscape of the Pyrenees or just being in the mountains? Perhaps it was the enchanting village of Queralbs or the experience of the Rack Railway? Perhaps it was the adventure of getting soaking wet from a massive storm or driving through a mudslide over the road? Even though all the tours were very different and memorable, this day trip to the Pyrenees was special. It was not your ‘usual’ sightseeing tour and, for the most part, was the more relaxed.
A word on booking tours with Explore Catalunya:
I booked all my tours with Explore Catalunya in person, visiting their office in Barcelona at Carrer Palau de la Musica, 1. When booking in person, I received a €10,00 senior discount on each tour. However, when visiting Explore Catalunya’s website, I found nowhere that a senior discount can be applied when booking a tour.
As we conclude our journey through these five memorable day trips from Barcelona, I hope the experiences I shared have inspired you to venture beyond the city’s boundaries and explore the wonders just a short distance away.
Barcelona is a gateway to extraordinary adventures, allowing you to immerse yourself in captivating landscapes, delve into rich history, and be inspired by world-renowned art. The day trips I took from Barcelona left me with a lifetime of memories.
So, if you find yourself in Barcelona, let these day trips be your guide to exploring the richness that lies beyond the city’s borders, for Catalonia is a region of endless discovery. Allow yourself to be swept away by the allure of Montserrat, the coastal beauty of Costa Brava, the timeless appeal of medieval villages, the majesty of the Pyrenees, and the surreal world of Salvador Dali.
Thank you for joining me on this unforgettable journey through Catalonia’s diverse landscapes and cultural treasures. Until next time, here’s to the endless horizons of discovery and the timeless magic of travel!
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
Have you found this review of day trip tours from Barcelona a helpful resource? Which would be a day trip not to be missed? I love hearing from you. Please leave a comment below.
I look forward to reading and responding to your comments on which day trips from Barcelona you might include on your next holiday to Spain that this post has inspired.
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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
Ethiopia’s Coffee Ceremony is Deeply Rooted in Tradition and Social Significance. Journey to the birthplace of coffee itself – Ethiopia – where coffee isn’t just a drink but a…
Ethiopia’s Coffee Ceremony is Deeply Rooted in Tradition and Social Significance.
Journey to the birthplace of coffee itself – Ethiopia – where coffee isn’t just a drink but a ritual steeped in tradition and social significance. This is the Ethiopian coffee ceremony, where time stands still to honour hospitality and respect, strengthen bonds, and foster conversations.
This post illustrates this timeless ritual, from the meticulous preparation of the coffee to the communal enjoyment that follows. Get ready to be immersed into the heart and soul of Ethiopian culture through its world-renowned coffee ceremony. It is a truly wonderful and unique experience!
I love coffee. I have drunk it in many countries with varying degrees of appreciation. Well, now I have found coffee heaven. It’s in Ethiopia, and there is a whole ceremony surrounding its making and drinking.
Ethiopia is the home of coffee. The coffee plant originated in Ethiopia, with the beans first brewed in the 11th century. So, Ethiopians have had a lot of practice doing stuff with coffee, to the point where a whole ceremony developed around brewing and drinking coffee. The coffee ceremony is an integral part of Ethiopian culture and hospitality. It is a significant social occasion.
Ethiopians have a delightful story around the discovery of the benefits of coffee. A goat herder noticed his goats acting excitedly and ‘dancing’ on their hind legs after eating the bright red berries from a particular tree. When he tried the berries himself, he felt energised. He grabbed some berries and rushed home to tell his wife, who told him he must share these “heaven-sent” berries with the monks in the nearby monastery. The monks did not share the goat herder’s elation, believing the berries to be sinful and the work of the Devil. They tossed the coffee berries into the fire. However, the smell of the roasting coffee beans made the monks rethink their view of this sinful drug, and they removed the coffee beans from the fire. They crushed the coffee beans to extinguish the glowing embers and covered them with hot water to preserve them. The aroma of the coffee made all the monks want to try it. After this, they vowed to drink coffee every day because they found the coffee’s uplifting effects helped keep them awake during their holy devotions. And so, Ethiopia’s coffee tradition and culture were created.
I loved the ceremony as much as the coffee itself. Unlike Italy, where coffee is drunk quickly whilst standing, preparing and drinking coffee in Ethiopia is not to be rushed as the hostess must not miss any step.
Wherever I travelled in Ethiopia, the coffee ceremony was always the same. There was something reassuring in this familiarity of freshly roasting coffee beans and the smell of fresh-cut grasses that were invariably laid on the ground. The laying of cut grasses on the floor sets the scene for the coffee ceremony.
When ordering coffee in a Western-style restaurant in Ethiopia, the coffee is brewed following the established ritual in a reserved area of the restaurant and served on a tray lined with fresh-cut grasses.
Coffee is served on a tray with fresh-cut grasses.
Ethiopian coffee ceremony: the traditional steps
Coffee berries growing on the tree.
First, the raw coffee beans are rubbed together in water in a pan to remove the skins on the beans. Then, they are roasted over a charcoal brazier, releasing the aromatic oils from the beans. The hostess – I never saw this ceremony conducted by a man – brings the pan of smoking, roasted beans around for you to waft the smoke towards you, to draw in the aroma of the roasted beans.
Washing the raw coffee beans.
Once roasted, the beans are ground with a mortar and pestle. Traditionally, the mortar and pestle are made of wood.
Grinding the roasted coffee beans.
While grinding the beans, the hostess is boiling water in a terracotta “jebena” over an open fire. A jebena is a traditional Ethiopian clay coffee pot with a bulbous, round bottom, a long, narrow neck topped with a wooden or straw stopper, and a handle.
The jebena I bought in a local market in Bahir Dar.
Once the coffee beans are ground, the resultant powder is added to the boiling water in the jebena. The combined water and ground beans are boiled for a couple of minutes and then rested to allow the coffee powder to sink to the bottom of the pot.
By this stage, if you are a coffee lover like me, the smell of freshly brewed coffee will have your mouth watering in anticipation of what will come.
Finally, the coffee is poured into small, handleless porcelain cups (similar to Chinese tea cups). The pouring is done from as high as possible above the cups – about a foot above the cups. The hostess will usually serve coffee with popcorn or peanuts.
Ethiopian coffee ceremony: a social event
Coffee isn’t just a drink in Ethiopia. It is an essential component of Ethiopian culture and society. Being invited to coffee in Ethiopia is considered a sign of friendship and respect. It is a time to extend the hand of hospitality, promote social relations, and catch up on neighbourhood news.
A girl pours coffee for customers in a coffee house in Lalibela.
A coffee house at the remote Blue Nile Falls.
Ethiopian coffee is drunk sweet, and black. In fact, very sweet – 2 to 3 teaspoons of sugar. Mind you, the teaspoons are minuscule. I learnt to enjoy black coffee. However, by the time I left Ethiopia, I was drinking my coffee with a lot less sugar.
When drinking coffee in Ethiopia, etiquette requires you to have three cups of coffee. The first cup is to welcome you, the second is about friendship, and the third is to say goodbye. Denying coffee at any of the three servings is considered rude. Remember, these are tiny cups, so having three is less in quantity than a mug of coffee.
Ethiopian coffee is the best I have ever tasted. The two women I was travelling through Ethiopia with told me I said, “Oh, that’s good coffee”, every time I had a cup of coffee. This must have driven them mad because we had lots (and I mean lots) of cups of coffee. Finally, one of my travel companions told our diver-guide that Ethiopia needs to change its tourism slogan from “13 Months of Sunshine” to “Oh, That’s Good Coffee”. He just laughed.
So, if you ever find yourself in Ethiopia, immerse yourself in the magical and captivating experience of the coffee ceremony. You won’t be disappointed!
To learn about Ethiopia’s coffee ceremony’s cultural and social history, visit the Institute of Ethiopian Studies Ethnological Museum in Addis Ababa. This well-organised, delightful museum on Addis Ababa University’s main campus is dedicated to preserving, studying, and presenting Ethiopia’s rich cultural heritage.
The Ethnological Museum is open daily, excluding public holidays, with entrance fees charged at different rates for adults, students, and those wanting to take photographs. Engage one of the available guides who provide valuable information and insights about the museum’s collections.
The Coffee Story, Ethnological Museum.
From the first crackle of roasting beans to the three rounds of shared cups, the Ethiopian coffee ceremony is more than a mere caffeine fix. It is a ritual filled with tradition, hospitality, shared moments, and a deep appreciation for the humble coffee bean.
The ceremony unfolds in deliberate steps: roasting beans over coals, grinding them by hand, and brewing them in a traditional pot. Each step contributes to the welcoming atmosphere and deep-rooted traditions that define the Ethiopian coffee ceremony.
Whether you have experienced it firsthand or are curious about it from afar, the Ethiopian coffee ceremony stands as a testament to the beauty of cultural rituals and the power of a shared cup of coffee to bring people together, wherever they may be.
Editor’s Note: I originally published this blog post in March 2019 and have updated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
International travel will inevitably lead to translation challenges. Read about my communication issue in Ethiopia’s Simien Mountains, which I can laugh about now but, at the time, impacted my physical comfort.
Experience Fox Glacier and Franz Josef Glacier on a Helicopter Flight – The Most Accessible Rivers of Ice in the World. New Zealand’s Southern Alps are breathtaking and home…
Experience Fox Glacier and Franz Josef Glacier on a Helicopter Flight – The Most Accessible Rivers of Ice in the World.
New Zealand’s Southern Alps are breathtaking and home to several glaciers. Fox Glacier and Franz Josef Glacier are the most accessible. And what better way to experience their natural beauty than with a helicopter flight over the glaciers and landing on the top of one for a walk around?
When touring New Zealand’s South Island, I climbed aboard a helicopter for a scenic flight and snow landing. I have mixed feelings about this flight, which become evident in my review below.
I was so excited about taking a helicopter flight with Glacier Helicopters over New Zealand’s Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers – an optional extra with Grand Pacific Tours and my New Year present to myself. I will always jump at the option of a helicopter or small plane scenic flight and have taken several now around the world. They provide a unique perspective of an area or site you visit, and I feel a sense of adventure with helicopter flights.
Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers are in New Zealand’s Southern Alps on the South Island’s west coast, in Glacier Country. They are temperate maritime glaciers that extend well below the snow line. Franz Josef Glacier’s terminal face is 500 metres above sea level, while Fox Glacier terminates at 250 metres above sea level. Though still flowing, both glaciers, unfortunately, are retreating, with Franz Josef vanishing at a phenomenal rate.
Franz Josef Glacier is 12 kilometres long and lies 20 kilometres south of Fox Glacier. Franz Josef Glacier was named after the Austrian emperor but is better known by its Māori name, Kā Roimata o Hine Hukatere. The glacier is five kilometres from the town of the same name.
At 13 kilometres long, Fox Glacier (Te Moeka o Tuawe) is longer and faster moving than Franz Josef Glacier and is New Zealand’s longest glacier. Fox Glacier is just five kilometres from the village of the same name. I stayed in Fox Glacier village.
View of Fox Glacier taken from State Highway 6 near Fox Glacier village.
Grand Pacific Tours had organised the 40-minute ‘Mountain Scenic Spectacular’ helicopter flight with Helicopter Line in Franz Josef village. However, when we arrived, Helicopter Line advised us to fly the next morning because of the current poor visibility. For some reason I never understood, we booked in the following day with Glacier Helicopters for our scenic flight over Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers, with a snow landing on Franz Josef Glacier and departing from Fox Glacier village. Unfortunately, because of a strong wind, we couldn’t fly around Mount Cook (Aoraki), New Zealand’s highest mountain (3,724 metres), as per the scheduled flight path. Consequently, Glacier Helicopters reduced our helicopter flight plus snow landing to 30 minutes, and we did receive a small discount.
Mount Cook dominates New Zealand’s Southern Alps.
I was disappointed with Glacier Helicopter’s scenic flight. The cabin was cramped inside, and the other passengers obstructed my view. There were three of us in the back, two in the front, and the pilot. Sitting in the middle of the back seat, I found the cramped conditions restricted my arm movements, making taking photos while flying difficult.
I could tolerate being sandwiched between two passengers, but having my views of the landscape we were passing over severely obstructed was upsetting. While flying, the passengers on either side of me continually blocked my sight as they leaned into their respective windows to see the landscape below and take photos. Looking out the front of the helicopter was no better as the heads of the two front passengers were prominent in many of my photos.
These circumstances negatively impacted my overall experience. As a travel blogger and photographer (I rarely disclose my tradecraft), getting good photographs is crucial for my posts. I understand weight distribution is imperative for helicopter flights, but is there no way to guarantee a window seat?
Had I not been seated in the back row’s middle seat, I believe my helicopter flight experience would have been very different – far more positive.
After flying up the ice river that is Franz Josef Glacier, we landed on the top of the glacier to spend 15 wondrous minutes walking on the snow and ice, examining the ice architecture, enjoying the views, and taking photos. The adventure of a lifetime! The landing on Franz Josef Glacier was magical. Who needs a flight around a snow-capped mountain when you can walk on a glacier?
Franz Josef Glacier – climbing the ice river
Landing on Franz Josef Glacier.
While on Franz Josef Glacier, the pilot took photos of the passengers. He had a printer in the helicopter’s tail, and we could purchase a photograph after landing back at Fox Glacier Heliport.
There’s a printer in the helicopter’s tail!
I would have loved more time on Franz Josef Glacier to walk further afield than just the top of the glacier, exploring its features in detail. But that’s what the Heli Hikes entail. Next time!
Being in the middle seat behind the pilot and two other passengers on Glacier Helicopter’s small, five-passenger helicopter was not value for money. I had no choice as to which company I took the helicopter flight with, as Grand Pacific Tours organised it. I recommend exploring other glacier helicopter flight companies to avoid disappointment.
My helicopter flight over New Zealand’s Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers was a mixed experience. The obstruction of my views during the flight by other passengers was undeniably disappointing. However, the magic truly began when we landed on Franz Josef Glacier. The opportunity to step out on this pristine glacier and explore its breathtaking beauty up close gave me a real sense of adventure. While the flight had drawbacks, the glacier landing left an indelible mark on my memory.
Fox Glacier – on top of the mountains.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
My favourite helicopter flights are in small three-passenger helicopters with removed doors. I experienced three such helicopter flights when in The Kimberley, Western Australia. What has been your experience of scenic helicopter flights? I love hearing from you. Please leave a comment below.
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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.
HOW TO SEE HORIZONTAL FALLS AND EPIC TIDES, AUSTRALIA. Take an unforgettable scenic flight over northern Western Australia’s Horizontal Falls. Include an incredible sea safari among giant whirlpools and standing tidal waves. See a horizontal waterfall and ride giant tides.
Breathtaking Waterfalls, Idyllic Plunge Pools, Iconic Magnetic Termite Mounds, and the Australian bush, Litchfield National Park Will Not Disappoint. Litchfield National Park is one of the Northern Territory’s best-kept…
Breathtaking Waterfalls, Idyllic Plunge Pools, Iconic Magnetic Termite Mounds, and the Australian bush, Litchfield National Park Will Not Disappoint.
Litchfield National Park is one of the Northern Territory’s best-kept secrets and a must-see in Australia’s ‘Top End’. Home to spectacular waterfalls that plunge into crystal clear pools perfect for a swim and iconic magnetic termite mounds unique to northern Australia, visiting Litchfield National Park on a day tour at the end of 2022 was the highlight of my six days in Darwin.
Read on to learn why Litchfield is my new favourite national park and why I recommend the day tour I did with AAT Kings. Hint: I love waterfalls, landscapes, the bush, and the unusual.
About Litchfield National Park
Litchfield National Park in the Northern Territory (Australia) is near the town of Batchelor, about 100 kilometres southwest of Darwin. The Park was named after Frederick Henry Litchfield, a Territory pioneer who explored areas of the Northern Territory in 1864. Litchfield National Park covers an area of approximately 1,500 square kilometres and was proclaimed a national park in 1986.
Litchfield National Park is an ancient landscape carved by water and is home to 15 waterfalls. The falls flow year-round but are particularly spectacular in the wet and early dry seasons.
As well as an abundance of waterfalls, Litchfield National Park is famous for its magnetic termite mounds and found only in Australia’s Northern Territory.
The Marranuggu, Koongurrukun, Werat, and Warray Aboriginal people consider Litchfield National Park an important cultural site.
I am drawn to waterfalls and the stunning landscapes in which they are located. Any tour that takes me to waterfalls will always grab my attention. So, with AAT Kings advertising a day tour visiting three waterfalls, I quickly grabbed my place.
The three waterfalls included in the tour were Florence Falls, Tolmer Falls, and Wangi Falls. As a bonus, we also saw the unusual magnetic termite mounds.
On a day tour, three waterfalls were an ideal number to visit as it allowed for a leisurely pace to see and swim at the falls. AAT Kings’ Litchfield National Park Waterfalls tour was well-planned, well-timed, and well-executed.
Florence Falls
Florence Falls photographed from the viewing platform.
Florence Falls was my favourite of the three waterfalls we visited. It is a cascade waterfall that becomes segmented before it plunges over the cliff into a crystal-clear plunge pool perfect for a swim and set in a pocket of monsoon forest (a tropical dry forest).
Take the 3-minute walk from the car park to the viewing platform to see Florence Falls in all its splendour.
From the viewing platform, take the 170 steps (135 steel steps, with the rest being stone steps) down to the picturesque plunge pool, where a swim is a must. Here Florence Falls plunges into the pool from a height of about 15 metres before the creek continues over rocks and through the ancient landscape.
Florence Falls drops into the plunge pool.
Florence Falls Plunge Pool
I was pleasantly surprised by the pool’s water temperature. Coming from a town that sits on a river that originates in the Snowy Mountains, I expected the water to be freezing. However, the water was warm, but not so warm that you didn’t feel refreshed from a swim in the pool.
I recommend you walk down the steps to the plunge pool at the bottom of Florence Falls and take the Shady Creek Walk back up to the car park.
Shady Creek Walk
Shady Creek Walk meanders through Monsoon Forest
From the plunge pool at the bottom of Florence Falls, walk back to the car park via Shady Creek Walk – a Grade 3 (moderate) walk of one kilometre one way. The well-defined path meanders through the monsoon forest at a steady incline. There are some rock steps to negotiate, which are not particularly challenging and at various points along the way, the path crosses Shady Creek.
Shady Creek Walk crosses Shady Creek at various points.
A small plunge pool on Shady Creek is 50 metres from the car park. Take a final welcome dip before getting back on the bus.
Tolmer Falls
Tolmer Falls
Tolmer Falls is an impressive plunge waterfall with two drops at a total height of about 40 metres into the pool below. Swimming is prohibited at Tolmer Falls.
It is a 400-metre walk on a steep, sealed path from Tolmer Falls car park to the viewing platforms. The first platform provides magnificent views over the gorge, while the lower platform is the one you want for the best view of Tolmer Falls.
The top section of Tolmer Falls
Tolmer Falls crashes into the pool below.
Wangi Falls
Wangi Falls
Wangi Falls is a segmented waterfall with a drop of about 50 metres. It is the most popular in Litchfield National Park as its large plunge pool is the most accessible.
Walking 125 metres along an easy, flat path will take you to the viewing platform, where the falls and plunge pool create a stunning panorama.
There was no swimming for us at Wangi Falls as it had been closed for the season for safety reasons after recent rains. The water had risen over the rocks that form a natural barrier against saltwater crocodiles entering the plunge pool. As such, the Park Rangers could not guarantee there were no crocs in the pool. Therefore, they closed the falls. Good Plan!
The large plunge pool at Wangi Falls
Our included lunch at Wangi Falls Café consisted of cold meats and salads, with fresh fruit to follow.
Magnetic termite mounds
Termite mounds are found throughout Australia, but magnetic termite mounds are found only in the Northern Territory. And Litchfield National Park has a most impressive sight of hundreds of magnetic termite mounds standing up to two metres high on a vast flat plain. They look like tombstones spread over a large cemetery, all facing in the same direction.
Tombstone-like magnetic termite mounds
Around 100 years old, these peculiar mounds are mysteriously aligned to the earth’s magnetic field. Their thin edges point north-south, and their broad backs face east-west. Thereby, according to current theory, magnetic termites keep their homes comfortable.
“Northern Australia gets extremely hot during the day and cool at night, and researchers believe termites have somehow harnessed the power of the earth’s magnetism to strategically climate-control their homes.”
An accessible boardwalk skirts the plain of magnetic termite mounds, giving uninterrupted views.
When to visit
The northern part of the Territory, including Darwin and Litchfield National Park, has a tropical monsoonal climate with two seasons – a dry season and a wet season.
The dry season runs from May to October, with sunny days and cool evenings. The humidity is low, and the average daily temperature is around 32 degrees Celsius.
The wet season runs from November to April. It is a time of spectacular thunderstorms and cyclones. The humidity can rise as high as 98%, and the average daily temperature inland can hover around 39 degrees Celsius. However, balmy evenings provide some relief.
I visited Darwin in late October, at the very end of the Top End’s dry season. As the photos attest, the waterfalls were still flowing strongly.
Litchfield National Park is best known for its waterfalls, and a day tour must be on any traveller’s itinerary to the Top End. This is where I recommend AAT Kings’ Litchfield National Parks Waterfalls day tour from Darwin. Their tour was well-organised and conducted at a leisurely, relaxed pace. For once, on an escorted tour, I didn’t find myself rushed to take my photos. However, the tour has whet my appetite to see more of what Litchfield National Park has to offer. After all, I still have 12 waterfalls to explore!
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
While Wangi Falls is the most popular attraction in Litchfield National Park, Florence Falls was my favourite of the three waterfalls the tour included. If you could only visit one of the waterfalls I have described and shown in this post, which would it be? Leave a comment.
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Are you looking for more waterfall destinations in Australia? Then don’t miss these posts:
Which is For You – Gold Service or Platinum Service on The Ghan Train? Luxury train travel is popular in Australia. It is not just about getting on a…
Which is For You – Gold Service or Platinum Service on The Ghan Train?
Luxury train travel is popular in Australia. It is not just about getting on a train and going from A to B, but about the experience. On The Ghan (as with other luxury train travel in Australia), your journey can be completed in Gold Service or Platinum Service. But which service do you choose? Read on to learn about the similarities and differences between the two services from my unique first-hand experience as a solo traveller on The Ghan train.
In October 2022, I travelled on The Ghan from Adelaide to Darwin – a two-night train trip up the middle of Australia from the southern coast to the northern coast.
For the first half of the train trip from Adelaide to Alice Springs, I travelled Gold Service. In Alice Springs, I transferred to Platinum Service for the second half of the journey. Moving from one service to another halfway through the trip was not by design but was my only means of getting all the way from Adelaide to Darwin on The Ghan train on my desired travel date. However, it has allowed me to provide you with an exclusive first-hand comparison of The Ghan’s service levels – Gold Service and Platinum Service – and answer the question is Platinum Service value for money.
About The Ghan luxury train
The Ghan – Sunrise over the South Australian desert landscape
The Ghan (operated by Journey Beyond) is a luxury passenger train service in Australia that travels weekly from Adelaide to Darwin (or reverse), covering 2,979 kilometres over two nights and three days. It is considered one of the world’s great train journeys as it travels through diverse landscapes from the southern to northern extremes of Australia – from cityscapes and outback towns to endless red desert and the tropics.
The train is almost one kilometre in length and accommodates 258 Gold Service beds and 25 Platinum Service beds.
The Ghan’s name pays homage to the Afghan camel drivers who helped explore Australia’s remote interior in the 19th century.
The Ghan Gold Service vs Platinum Service: price
I paid AUD2,875.00 for the Adelaide to Alice Springs section of the train journey in Gold Service. This cost included one night’s accommodation in a sole occupancy twin cabin, three meals and all beverages, and two Off Train Experiences.
Had I travelled with a friend or partner and shared a Gold Service twin cabin from Adelaide to Alice Springs, the fare would have been AUD1,595.00 per person.
My Platinum Service cost for the second half of the train trip from Alice Springs to Darwin was AUD5,115.00. This price included one night’s accommodation in a sole occupancy cabin, three meals and all beverages, and two Off Train Experiences.
Had I travelled with a friend or partner and shared a Platinum Service cabin from Alice Springs to Darwin, the fare would have been AUD2,895.00 per person.
Dining, Australian wines, beers, base spirits, and non-alcoholic drinks are all-inclusive for both service levels. However, with Platinum Service, you can have Bollinger Champagne served with your meals.
My Platinum Service fare on The Ghan was almost twice as much as that for Gold Service with identical inclusions of accommodation, meals, beverages, and Off Train Experiences. So, what did I get for my money in Platinum Service that warranted the additional cost? What are the differences between the services?
The Ghan Gold Service vs Platinum Service: cabin
My Gold Service cabin was a twin cabin, while my Platinum Service cabin was a double cabin, and I had sole occupancy in both cabins.
The Ghan’s cabins are as different in every way.
Gold Service twin cabin
My Gold Service twin cabin was compact with a three-seater, firm lounge and sufficient leg room. The cabin converts to a bedroom at night with narrow bunk beds. As I was the sole person occupying my cabin, the Hospitality Attendant only made up the comfortable bottom bunk. My only fear was falling out of bed if I turned over. There is a ladder to assist you in accessing the top bunk.
Storage was limited to a small, narrow shelf and a cupboard where you could hang two or three items. Unlike the space provided in a riverboat cabin, unpacking was not viable. Depending on the size of your cabin bag, it may be stored under the lower bunk or on the shelf above the ensuite.
The cabin’s wood panelling was dark, and the furnishings looked tired and outdated. There were reading lights and a night light, sufficient power points, in-cabin music channels, and journey commentaries broadcasted in the cabins.
My Platinum Service double cabin was spacious, almost twice the size of the Gold Service twin cabin, and more modern in design.
The Ghan Platinum Service double cabin
During the day, the Platinum Service double cabin was set up as a private lounge, having a comfortable lounge with cushions, a moveable table, and two ottomans. However, the cabin could no longer be described as spacious if the ottomans (stored under the table) were being utilised. At night, the Hospitality Attendant turned the lounge room into a bedroom with a luxurious double bed.
As with my Gold Service twin cabin, there were sufficient power points, in-cabin music channels, and journey commentaries broadcasted in the cabins. While unpacking was still not viable, there was more storage space in my Platinum Service cabin.
The private ensuite for both services warrants a separate mention.
The Gold Service ensuite was compact. It was, in truth, a toilet, shower, and handbasin in a closet. A curtain pulled around the showerhead prevents the toilet and basin from getting wet. Having said that, I did find it manageable, but you would never get two people in there.
The Platinum Service cabin had a full-sized ensuite; in fact, it was larger than my ensuite at home.
Gold Service cabin ensuite
Platinum Service cabin ensuite
Both services provide complimentary Australian Appelles Apothecary toiletries. However, the bottles were larger in Platinum Service.
The Platinum Service cabin deserves the reputation of being luxurious. The Gold Service cabin, on the other hand, in my opinion, does not warrant a luxury label. Think XPT sleeper cabin without the bathroom closet!
Gold Service also offers single cabins, and Platinum Service has twin cabin options. However, I have not provided any details on these cabin types because I do not have first-hand knowledge of them.
The Ghan Gold Service vs Platinum Service: security
You can lock the cabin door when inside your Gold Service cabin. However, it is not possible to lock the door when you leave the cabin.
Platinum Service cabins are lockable inside and out with hotel-like key-card access.
Both services have in-cabin safes.
The Ghan Gold Service vs Platinum Service: lounge and restaurant
The Ghan has a dedicated lounge carriage (the Outback Explorer Lounge) and an exclusive restaurant carriage (the Queen Adelaide Restaurant) for Gold Service passengers.
Gold Service Outback Explorer Lounge
The exclusive lounge and restaurant (the Platinum Club) for Platinum Service passengers were combined in the same carriage. The restaurant area comprised two-thirds of the carriage, leaving minimal space for lounge chairs to socialise with other passengers.
Gold Service’s Outback Explorer Lounge was the social hub of the train, and I found it to be more conducive to meeting and chatting with fellow passengers. Strangers played cards and board games, shared stories, and made new friends.
On the other hand, the setup of the Platinum Club carriage did not encourage passenger socialisation. If four people were chatting in the lounge area of the restaurant carriage, there was no space for anyone else, which I found quite isolating.
The Ghan Gold Service vs Platinum Service: meals
As mentioned above, all meals are included in the cost price.
Both Gold Service and Platinum Service provide hearty breakfasts and two-course lunches. However, Gold Service dinners are three-course affairs, whilst Platinum Service delivers four-course dinners. Did I really need that fourth course? Platinum Service also offers its guests an in-cabin continental breakfast on request.
I preferred the meals in Gold Service. I am conservative in my eating and enjoyed Gold Service’s choices. Unfortunately, I found the Platinum Service menus challenging. Not only could I not pronounce many menu items, but I found it challenging to decide what to eat because I did not know what I was ordering.
The Ghan Gold Service vs Platinum Service: off train experiences
Off Train Experiences included river cruises, cultural encounters, indigenous rock art tours, camel rides, and helicopter flights. All Off Train Experiences, including upgrade options, were available for all passengers regardless of service level.
Simpsons Gap Off Train Experience in Alice Springs
The Ghan Gold Service vs Platinum Service: Hospitality Attendant
There is no denying the Hospitality Attendants on The Ghan perform multiple tasks. One minute they are directing you to your carriage at embarkation, assisting with luggage, or explaining the train’s operation and noting your selections for Off Train Experiences. The next time you see your Hospitality Assistant, they are serving your meals in the restaurant, drinks in the lounge, or accompanying you on off-train experiences.
I found the Hospitality Attendant in Platinum Service more attentive than that in Gold Service.
In Gold Service, the Hospitality Attendant introduced herself soon after I boarded. She explained the layout of my cabin and how the restaurant organises meals, noted my food allergy, and wrote down my selections for Off Train Experiences. Then I never saw her again except in the restaurant serving meals. Turndown service occurs while you are eating dinner. Luckily, I did not need her!
Platinum Service was a very different, more positive experience. My Hospitality Attendant still performed all the tasks of the Gold Service Hospitality Attendant. However, he was available and ensured my needs were met without being intrusive. Iced tea and biscuits waiting in my room upon my return from Off Train Experiences was a welcome addition. Would I have got this in Gold Service? Yes, if I had gone to the bar and ordered it, but in-cabin service did not exist.
The Ghan Gold Service vs Platinum Service: transfers
Journey Beyond does not provide transfer services for Gold Service passengers joining The Ghan in Adelaide or disembarking in Alice Springs. However, Gold Service does offer a complimentary shuttle bus service in Darwin to selected hotels in the city centre.
Complimentary private transfers are available for Platinum Service passengers at the beginning and end of their journey within 60 kilometres of the Adelaide, Alice Springs, and Darwin rail terminals. As it turned out, my Platinum Service transfer in Darwin was not private but a shared transfer with other Platinum Service passengers in a minivan.
The Ghan Gold Service vs Platinum Service: checked luggage allowance
The checked luggage allowance for Gold Service passengers is 60 kilograms for two bags, with a maximum of 30 kilograms per bag.
Platinum Service’s checked luggage allowance is 90 kilograms for three bags, with a maximum of 30 kilograms per bag.
Journey Beyond recommend you pack an overnight bag for use on the train.
The Ghan Gold Service vs Platinum Service: summary
Refreshments served in Platinum, Gold dinner menu, and The Ghan at sunrise
There is no getting away from the fact The Ghan is very expensive, whichever service (Gold or Platinum) you decide on for your journey.
Platinum Service offers more luxurious and private cabins, with added amenities and a higher personal service level than Gold Service. But was it worth almost double the cost? In short, this solo traveller says no!
The Gold Service twin cabin was more than adequate, even with its closet ensuite.
On a two-night journey, I found Platinum Services’ additional amenities unnecessary and not worth the higher fare. However, everyone’s preferences are different, and you should choose the travel experience that aligns with your individual needs and desires. For me, Gold Service won out big time over Platinum Service.
I did not want in-cabin breakfast but enjoyed eating breakfast with other passengers.
I did not need an extra course for dinner.
I was more than happy to forego champagne.
Refreshments waiting for me in my cabin upon return from an Off Train Experience was a nice touch in Platinum Service. Nonetheless, I preferred having a refreshing drink after an Off Train Experience in the Gold Service lounge carriage, where I could chat about our shared experience with other passengers.
I am not into taking a nightcap alone as I believe a nightcap is more enjoyable socially shared.
I frequented the Outback Explorer Lounge, the social hub of Gold Service, but felt uncomfortable and intrusive in the Platinum Club. I found Platinum Service quite lonely.
I felt Platinum Service in-cabin amenities (breakfast, refreshments, and nightcaps) promoted social isolation – something I was not looking for. Quite the opposite! As a solo traveller, I enjoy social opportunities to meet new people.
I admit the inability to lock the door when leaving my Gold Service cabin caused some initial concern. However, locking my valuables in the in-cabin safe and in my bag if it was too large for the safe, for example, my camera, eased my disquiet.
I like my luxuries and attentive, discreet staff, but these were not worth the additional cost of Platinum Service on The Ghan.
The Ghan Gold Service vs Platinum Service: recommendation
The Ghan luxury train certainly offers an unforgettable experience in Australia, but it comes at a price.
Not everyone who reads this post will agree with me, but it is my judgement that The Ghan offers the same overall services regardless of cabin class. The answer to the question of “which service is better” will entirely depend on individual preferences and what you wish to gain from your train journey. However, in my considered opinion, Platinum Service was not value for money.
Without hesitation, I wholeheartedly recommend travelling Gold Service on The Ghan luxury train in Australia.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
If you were planning to travel on The Ghan, which service – Gold or Platinum – would you book and why? I hope this post helps you make that choice. Leave a comment.
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Author’s Note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip, and always follow government advice.
Take An Amazing Scenic Flight And Awesome Sea Safari Northern Western Australia has some of the best unique experiences you will find in Australia. Air Kimberley’s Cygnet Bay Explorer…
Take An Amazing Scenic Flight And Awesome Sea Safari
Northern Western Australia has some of the best unique experiences you will find in Australia. Air Kimberley’s Cygnet Bay Explorer full-day tour covers several bucket list activities in the Kimberley region. Be prepared for a scenic flight over the Horizontal Waterfalls and the stunning Buccaneer Archipelago, a visit to a hatchery managed by the Bardi-Jawi people, a pearling industry discovery tour and a fast boat cruise amongst giant whirlpools and standing tidal waves in the world’s largest tropical tides. So, where am I taking you? Read on to discover and learn more about your next Australian adventure.
Over the past 12 months, I have tried twice to join a tour over and through Horizontal Falls in Western Australia. However, on both occasions, the company cancelled the tour. The first cancellation in 2021 was because the seaplanes could not take off due to low cloud cover. The second cancellation (June 2022) occurred when a fast boat had an accident going through the Horizontal Waterfalls, and all fast boat tours through the falls were temporarily suspended.
When I recently found myself in Broome again, and my second-attempted pre-booked Horizontal Falls tour was cancelled, I was resigned to my disappointment. However, one day nosing around the resort lobby, I came across an Air Kimberley brochure. I discovered they did a similar full-day tour that included a flyover of the Horizontal Falls and a sea safari, not through Horizontal Falls, as I had wanted, but out to the giant tides off the Kimberley coast.
The Air Kimberley tour cost, at $985.00, was slightly less than what I was to be refunded from the cancelled tour. I figured, what did I have to lose? And I wasn’t returning to Broome for a third attempt at the Horizontal Falls tour.
Air Kimberley’s tour price covered hotel transfers, flights, morning tea and lunch, and third-party tours at Ardyaloon Trochus Hatchery and Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm.
So, what did I find in that Air Kimberley brochure? Before I answer that question, you probably wonder why seeing Horizontal Falls was so important to me.
Last year, when organising my first ever trip to the Kimberley in northern Western Australia, Horizontal Falls was on my must-see list for several reasons.
Sir David Attenborough has described the falls as “one of the greatest natural wonders of the world”, and I thought I needed to see this unique natural attraction that deserved such high praise.
The Horizontal Falls are created by a rare ocean phenomenon where powerful, fast-moving 10- to 12-metre-high tidal currents squeeze through two narrow gorges at an astonishing rate, producing waterfalls turned on their side (literally, horizontal). I love waterfalls but have only seen ones with vertical drops. So, I knew I had to see this wonder for myself.
Horizontal Falls is in the Buccaneer Archipelago, an untouched region of more than 1,000 islands off the coast of Western Australia. These largely uninhabited islands are known for their rugged terrain, areas of rainforest, and pristine, white sand beaches – a landscape I was keen to photograph from the air even though it would seriously test my camera skills.
Horizontal Falls is remote, accessible only by air or boat. I find ‘remote’ appealing – the more difficult it is to get to see or do something, the more I want to go.
And lastly, seeing Horizontal Falls came highly recommended by friends and Facebook groups.
Did my flight over Horizontal Falls meet all my expectations? You will have to read on to find out.
Cygnet Bay Explorer
And now, back to my question about what I found in the Air Kimberley brochure.
I found, booked, and went on Air Kimberley’s Cygnet Bay Explorer full-day tour, leaving from Broome.
“Enjoy an adventure packed day experiencing the best of the Kimberley – Overfly the Horizontal Falls, Buccaneer Archipelago, visit Ardyaloon Community and the giant tides and shimmering pearls at Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm.”
While you can check out the details of this tour for yourself by clicking on the link, there were two very different events I was eager to experience – the scenic flight over Horizontal Falls and the sea safari out to the giant whirlpools. But I am getting ahead of myself. What did the tour entail?
I was picked up from my accommodation at 6.30 am and driven to Broome International Airport, where Air Kimberley is based. Four other people (two couples) joined me on the tour. After our flight safety briefing, we boarded a small aircraft (eight-seater, including the pilot) for the 2-hour flight up the Kimberley coast for our flight over the stunning Buccaneer Archipelago and Horizontal Falls.
The Buccaneer Archipelago is a group of 1,000 small islands covering 50 square kilometres, located at the head of King Sound near the Kimberley town of Derby.
The archipelago is a magnificent raw landscape that you can only truly appreciate from the air. While boat tours around the islands offer visits to the beautiful coves and beaches, you would not get the perspective given by a scenic flight of the vastness of all those islands that seem to go on forever.
Scenic flight with Air Kimberley over the Buccaneer Archipelago
The islands of the Buccaneer Archipelago
I must admit, I was underwhelmed with Horizontal Falls. I had read so much about the power of the tides running between the cliffs, causing the water to appear like a horizontal waterfall, but ‘power’ was not evident from the plane. Instead, what I saw was more like Class 1 or 2 rapids.
Scenic flight with Air Kimberley over the Horizontal Waterfalls
Horizontal Falls
I suspect the wonder of Horizontal Falls and the power of the tides are best experienced from a fast boat through the waterfalls rather than a scenic flyover.
When we landed at the Ardyaloon Trochus Hatchery & Aquaculture Centre, run by the Bardi-Jawi people on One Arm Point, I asked the pilot if we were not allowed to fly lower over Horizontal Falls. I thought lower would give a better ‘feel’ for the powerful tides. Apparently, there is a height pecking order, with helicopters flying at the lowest altitude, seaplanes next level up, and light aircraft (our plane) flying the highest.
When I got home and reviewed my photos more closely, I felt the image below revealed the power of the running tide more clearly than my eyes could discern. What do you think?
Can you ‘feel’ the power of the Horizontal Falls in this photo?
I had joined a guided tour of Ardyaloon Trochus Hatchery on a previous visit to Broome in 2021. However, on this occasion, morning tea of fruit salad, cake, and juice was provided by Air Kimberley.
From Long Arm Point, it was a short, six-minute flight to Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm on the tip of the Dampier Peninsula, where the activities included the Pearl Discovery Tour and a Sea Safari. At Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm, Air Kimberley’s involvement was limited to getting us to the pearl farm, seeing we joined the Pearl Discovery Tour, paying for lunch, ensuring we were on the fast boat for the Sea Safari, and flying us back to Broome.
Air Kimberley’s Cygnet Bay Explorer tour price included the tours at Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm.
Pearl Farm Discovery Tour
My previous visit to Broome in 2021 included the Pearl Farm Discovery Tour at the family-owned Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm. However, I continue to be fascinated by the history of pearling in the Kimberley.
Reading tip: If you are interested in learning more about a significant chapter in the Kimberley’s pearling industry, I recommend reading The White Divers of Broome by John Bailey, telling the true story of a fatal experiment.
The tour commenced with an information session on the history of Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm and the pearling industry in what appropriately appeared to be an old school classroom. A live pearl harvest followed the history lesson.
I took this photo of the harvested pearl on my previous visit to Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm
The tour concluded with an in-depth session on how pearls are graded.
The Pearl Farm Discovery tour was followed by lunch at the onsite restaurant.
Twice I lunched at the Cygnet Bay Homestead Restaurant with a tour group when the set menu was seafood. On both occasions, Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm was advised of my seafood allergy, and, on both occasions, this information seems to have been lost in translation. The outcome was eating a meal after everyone else had finished because they had nothing prepared for me. I found the restaurant’s forgetfulness disappointing.
Sea Safari
After lunch, we climbed aboard the fast boat for our Giant Tides Sea Safari. During this cruise, we would “feel the power of the world’s largest tropical tides with giant whirlpools and standing waves” created by millions of tonnes of water squeezing between the rocky islands of the Buccaneer Archipelago.
Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm writes about their Sea Safari tour:
“Feel the power of the world’s largest tropical tides as you cruise amongst the giant whirlpools and standing tidal waves. Venture into Escape Passage, recently described by scientists as the fastest ocean currents in the world!
The tides on this section of the Kimberley Coast are particularly large due to the area’s geography. When the sun and moon align on a spring tide, the ocean is pulled towards the north-west of WA and Indonesia, gathering speed as it reaches the shallow continental shelf and bottlenecking as it passes between Australia and Indonesia, creating the exhilarating whirlpools and standing waves we see on the tour.”
Sea Safari amongst giant whirlpools and standing tidal waves
Sea Safari with Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm
Fast boat amongst standing waves on a Sea Safari
Fast ocean currents create whirlpools and standing waves
My photos can’t express the sense of adventure experienced and don’t do justice to all you see. The whirlpools are probably best viewed from the air.
The Sea Safari was an experience I find difficult to describe as there just don’t seem to be the right words to express how I felt as we powered through the whirlpools and standing waves created by the forceful tides. But let me try. It was a thrilling, exhilarating, exciting, fun, and awesome adventure. To best sum up my feelings, I was disappointed when it was time to return to land. I immediately wanted to go back out again, but there was a plane waiting for me to take me back to Broome.
Beware: You will get wet. How much so will depend on where you are sitting in the boat. Two young girls sitting at the front of the boat got drenched. I was sitting at the back of the boat directly in front of the driver and experienced what I would best describe as several large, fat rain drops.
The flight along the Kimberley coast back to Broome took us over the magnificent red cliffs of James Price Point, famous for its 130-million-year-old dinosaur footprints (but that’s another trip).
Scenic flight with Air Kimberley over James Price Point
It was a long (approximately 11 hours), enjoyable, satisfying, and exhilarating day providing several unique experiences and so worth it. I can not fault Air Kimberley’s relaxed professionalism, guiding, and communication.
The tour was an excellent itinerary, well organised, kept on time without feeling rushed, and value for money. Without hesitation, I recommend Air Kimberley to readers.
Before our transfer back to our respective hotels, Air Kimberley presented each passenger with special gifts as mementos of our Kimberley adventure – a tour photo, a souvenir Passport & Tour Map to the Kimberley, an Air Kimberley stubby cooler, and a complimentary beer voucher from Matso’s Brewery in Broome. I am not letting out any secrets here, as Air Kimberley lists the gifts on their website.
In this post, I have shared my experience of Air Kimberley’s full-day Cygnet Bay Explorer tour up the Kimberley coast over the Horizontal Falls and 1,000-islands Buccaneer Archipelago and onward to a fantastic sea safari adventure in the world’s largest tropical tides. It was a chance meeting with a brochure that brought me to Air Kimberley – one that was to my benefit and yours.
Disclaimer: This post contains no affiliate links. All views and opinions are my own and non-sponsored. All photos are my own and remain the copyright of Just Me Travel.
Please leave a comment below to share your thoughts. Does Horizontal Falls deserve Sir David Attenborough’s description of “one of the greatest natural wonders of the world”?
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